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FRONTISPIECE. 

PLAN  OP  A  FRUIT  GARDEN. 


ISO 


BARRY'S 


FRUIT     OARDEK 


BY 

P.    BARRY 


REVISED,    ENLARGED,    AND   NEWLY    ELECTROTYPED. 


NEW    YORK: 
ORANGE    JUDD     AND     COMPANY, 

245     BROADWAY. 


Entered,  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1872,  by 

ORANGE    JUDD    &    CO., 
In  the  Office  of  the  Librarian  of  Congress,  at  Washington. 


LOVEJOY,  SON  &  Co., 

ELECTROTYPKRS  &  STEEBOTYPKRS, 

15  Vandewater  Street,  N.  V. 


INTRODUCTION    TO    FIRST    EDITION. 


The  subject  of  this  treatise  is  one  in  which  almost  all 
classes  of  the  community  are  more  or  less  practically  en- 
gaged and  interested.  Agriculture  is  pursued  by  one 
class,  and  commerce  by  another;  the  mechanic  arts,  fine 
arts,  and  learned  professions  by  others ;  but  fruit  culture, 
to  a  greater  or  less  extent,  by  all. 

It  is  the  desire  of  every  man,  whatever  may  be  his  pur- 
suit or  condition  in  life,  whether  he  live  in  town  or 
country,  to  enjoy  fine  fruits,  to  provide  them  for  his  fam- 
ily, and,  if  possible,  to  cultivate  the  trees  in  his  own 
garden  with  his  own  hands.  The  agriculturist,  whatever 
be  the  extent  or  condition  of  his  grounds,  considers  an 
orchard,  at  least,  indispensable.  The  merchant  or  pro- 
fessional man  who  has,  by  half  a  lifetime  of  drudgery  in 
town,  secured  a  fortune  or  a  competency  that  enables  him 
to  retire  to  a  country  or  suburban  villa,  looks  forward  to 
his  fruit  garden  as  one  of  the  chief  sources  of  those  rural 
comforts  and  pleasures  he  so  long  and  so  earnestly  labored 
and  hoped  for.  The  nrtizan  who  has  laid  up  enough  from 
his  earnings  to  purchase  a  homestead,  considers  the  plant- 
ing of  his  fruit-trees  as  one  of  the  first  and  most  important 
steps  towards  improvement.  Jle  anticipates  the  pleasure 
of  tending  them  in  his  spare  hours,  of  watching  their 
growth  and  progress  to  maturity,  and  of  gathering  their 
ripe  and  delicious  fruits,  and  placing  them  before  his 
family  and  friends  as  the  valued  products  of  his  own  gar- 
den, and  of  his  own  skill  and  labor.  Fortunately,  in  the 


VI  INTRODUCTION    TO    FIRST    EDITION. 

United  States,  land  is  so  easily  obtained  as  to  be  within 
the  reach  of  every  industrious  man ;  and  the  climate  and 
soil  being  so  favorable  to  the  production  of  fruit,  Ameri- 
cans, if  they  be  not  already,  must  become  truly  "  a  nation 
of  fruit  growers." 

Fruit  culture,  therefore,  whether  considered  as  a  branch 
of  profitable  industry,  or  as  exercising  a  most  beneficial 
influence  upon  the  health,  habits,  and  tastes  of  the  people, 
becomes  a  great  national  interest,  and  whatever  may  as- 
sist in  making  it  better  understood,  and  more  interesting, 
and  better  adapted  to  the  various  wants,  tastes,  and  cir- 
cumstances of  the  community,  cannot  fail  to  subserve  the 
public  good. 

Within  a  few  years  past  it  has  received  an  unusual  de- 
gree of  attention.  Plantations  of  all  sorts,  orchards, 
gardens,  and  nurseries,  have  increased  in  numbers  and 
extent  to  a  degree  quite  unprecedented ;  not  in  one  section 
or  locality,  but  from  the  extreme  north  to  the  southern 
limits  of  the  fruit-growing  region.  Foreign  supplies  of 
trees  have  been  required  to  meet  the  suddenly  and  greatly 
increased  demand.  Treatises  and  periodicals  devoted  to 
the  subject  have  increased  rapidly  and  circulated  widely. 
Horticultural  societies  have  been  organized  in  all  parts ; 
while  exhibitions,  and  national,  State,  and  local  conven- 
tions of  fruit  growers,  have  been  held  to  discuss  the 
merits  of  fruits  and  other  kindred  topics. 

To  those  unacquainted  with  the  previous  condition  of 
fruit  culture  in  the  inferior  of  the  country,  this  new,  plant- 
ing spirit  has  appeared  as  a  sort  of  speculative  mania ;  and 
the  idea  has  suggested  itself  to  them  that  the  country  will 
soon  be  overstocked  with  fruits.  This  is  a  greatly  mis- 
taken apprehension.  After  all  that  has  been  done,  let  us 
look  at  the  actual  condition  of  fruit  culture  at  the  present 
time.  In  the  best  fruit-growing  counties  in  the  State  of 
New  York,  the  entire  fruit  plantations,  of  more  than  three- 
fourths  of  the  agricultural  population,  consist  of  very 


INTRODUCTION    TO    FIRST    EDITION.  VII 

ordinary  orchards  of  apples.  Not  a  dish  of  fine  pears, 
plums,  cherries,  apricots,  grapes,  nor  raspberries,  has  ever 
appeared  on  their  tables,  and  not  a  step  has  yet  been  taken 
to  produce  them.  People  are  but  beginning  to  learn  the 
uses  of  fruits,  and  to  appreciate  their  importance. 

At  one  time  apples  were  grown  chiefly  for  cider ;  now 
they  are  considered  an  indispensable  article  of  food.  The 
finer  fruits,  that  were  formerly  considered  as  luxuries  only 
for  the  tables  of  the  wealthy,  are  beginning  to  take  their 
place  among  the  ordinary  supplies  of  every  man's  table ; 
and  this  taste  must  grow  from  year  to  year,  with  an  in- 
creased supply.*  Those  who  consume  a  bushel  of  fruit 
this  year,  will  require  double  or  treble  that  quantity 
next.  The  rapid  increase  of  population  alone,  creates  a 
demand  to  an  extent  that  few  people  are  aware  of.  The 
city  of  Rochester  has  added  20,000  to  her  numbers  in 
ten  years.  Let  such  an  increase  as  this  in  all  our  cities, 
towns,  and  villages,  be  estimated,  and  see  what  an  aggre- 
gate, annual  amount  of  new  consumers  it  presents. 

New  markets  are  continually  presenting  themselves,  and 
demanding  large  supplies.  New  and  more  perfect  modes 
of  packing  and  shipping  fruits,  and  of  drying,  preserving, 
and  preparing  them  for  various  purposes  to  which  they 
have  not  hitherto  been  appropriated,  are  beginning  to  en- 
list attention  and  inquiry. 

Immense  amounts  of  money  are  annually  expended  in 
importing  grapes,  wines,  figs,  nuts,  prunes,  raisins,  cur- 
rants, almonds,  etc.,  many  of  which  might  be  produced 
perfectly  well  on  our  own  soil.  Pears  have  actually  been 
imported  from  France  by  the  New  York  confectioners, 
this  present  season  (1851).  These  are  facts  that  should 
be  well  understood  by  proprietors  of  lands,  and  especially 
by  those  who  have  allowed  themselves  to  imagine  that 
fruit  will  soon  be  so  plenty  as  not  to  be  worth  the  grow- 
ing. 

It  is  too  soon,  by  a  century,  to  apprehend  an  over  sup- 


VIII  INTRODUCTION    TO    FIKST    EDITION. 

ply  of  fruits  in  the  United  States,  except  of  some  very 
perishable  sort,  in  a  season  of  unusual  abundance,  in  some 
particular  locality,  where  one  branch  of  culture  is  mainly 
carried  on. 

It  is  because  fruit  culture  has  been  almost  entirely  neg- 
lected until  within  a  few  years,  that  the  present  activity 
appears  so  extraordinary.  A  vast  majority  of  the  people 
were  quite  unaware  of  the  treasures  within  their  reach ; 
and  that  in  regard  to  soil  and  climate,  they  possessed  ad- 
vantages for  fruit  growing  superior  to  any  other  nation. 
We  had  no  popular  works  or  periodicals  to  diffuse  informa- 
tion or  awaken  interest  on  the  subject.  For  fourteen  or 
fifteen  years  Hovey's  Magazine  of  Horticulture  was  the 
only  journal  exclusively  devoted  to  gardening  subjects, 
and  it  only  found  its  way  into  the  hands  of  the  more  ad- 
vanced cultivators.  We  had  some  treatises  on  fruits,  but 
none  of  them  circulated  sufficiently  to  effect  much  good. 
Previous  to  1845,  Kenrick's  American  Orchardist,  and 
Manning 's  Book  of  Fruits,  were  the  principal  treatises 
that  had  any  circulation  worth  naming.  Coxe's  work, 
Floy's,  Prince's,  and  some  others,  were  confined  almost 
wholly  to  nurserymen,  or  persons  already  engaged  and 
interested  in  fruit  culture  in  the  older  parts  of  the  country. 

Mr.  Downing's  "  Fruit  and  Fruit  Trees  of  America," 
that  appeared  in  1845,  was  the  first  treatise  of  the  kind 
that  really  obtained  a  wide  and  general  circulation. 

It  made  its  appearance  at  a  favorable  moment,  just  as 
the  planting  spirit  referred  to  wras  beginning  to  manifest 
itself,  and  when,  more  than  at  any  previous  period,  such 
a  work  was  needed.  Mr.  Downing  enjoyed  great  advan- 
tages over  any  previous  American  writer.  During  the 
ten  years  that  had  elapsed  since  the  publication  of  Ken- 
rick's  and  Prince's  treatises,  a  great  fund  of  materials  had 
been  accumulating.  Messrs.  Manning,  Kenrick,  Prince, 
Wilder,  and  many  others,  had  been  industriously  collect- 
ing fruits  both  at  home  and  abroad.  The  Massachusetts 


INTRODUCTION    TO    FIRST    EDITION.  IX 

Horticultural  Society  was  actively  engaged  in  its  labors. 
The  London  Horticultural  Society  had  made  great  ad- 
vancement in  its  examination  and  trial  of  fruits,  and  had 
corrected  a  multitude  of  long  standing  errors  in  nomen- 
clature. 

Mr.  Downing's  work  had  the  benefit  of  all  this ;  and 
possessing  the  instructive  feature  of  outline  figures  of 
fruits,  and  being  written  in  a  very  agreeable  and  attrac- 
tive style,  it  possessed  the  elements  of  popularity  and 
usefulness  in  an  eminent  degree.  Hence  it  became  at 
once  the  text-book  of  every  man  who  sought  for  porno- 
logical  information,  or  felt  interested  in  fruits  or  fruit- 
trees  ;  and  to  it  is  justly  attributable  much  of  the  taste 
and  spirit  on  the  subject,,  and  the  increased  attention  to 
nomenclature,  that  so  distinguishes  the  present  time.  Mr. 
Thomas's  recent  treatise,  "  The  American  Fruit  Culturist," 
on  the  same  plan  as  Mr.  Downing's,  is  also  a  popular 
work,  and  will  be  the  means  of  diffusing  both  taste  and 
information.  Mr.  Thomas  is  a  close  and  accurate  ob- 
server, and  his  descriptions  are  peculiarly  concise,  methodi- 
cal, and  minute.  "Cole's  Fruit  Book"  is  also  a  recent 
treatise,  and  on  account  of  its  cheapness,  and  the  vast  ac- 
cumulation of  facts  and  information  it  contains,  is  highly 
popular  and  useful.  Besides  these,  periodicals,  devoted 
more  or  less  to  the  subject,  have  increased  in  number,  and 
greatly  extended  their  circulation,  so  that  information  is 
now  accessible  to  all  who  desire  it. 

The  light  which  has  been  shed  upon  fruit-growing  by 
these  works,  and  the  taste  they  have  created,  have  not 
only  improved  old  systems  of  cultivation,  but  introduced 
new  ones.  Until  within  a  few  years,  nothing  was  said  or 
known  among  the  great  body  of  cultivators,  or  even  nur- 
serymen, of  dwarfing  trees,  of  the  uses  of  certain  stocks, 
or  of  modes  of  propagation  and  pruning  by  which  trees 
are  made  to  bear  early,  and  are  adapted  to  different  cir- 
cumstances. The  entire  routine  of  the  propagation  and 
1* 


X  INTRODUCTION   TO    FIEST   EDITION. 

management  of  trees  was  conducted  generally  in  the  sim- 
plest and  rudest  manner.  Whether  for  the  garden  or  the 
orchard,  they  were  propagated  in  the  same  manner,  on 
the  same  stocks,  and  in  the  same  form  taken  from  the 
nursery,  planted  out,  and  left  there  to  assume  such  forms 
as  nature  or  accident  might  impose,  and  produce  fruit  at 
such  a  time  as  natural  circumstances  would  admit. 

The  art  of  planting  fifty  trees  on  a  quarter  of  an  acre 
of  ground,  and  bringing  them  into  a  fruitful  state  in  four 
or  five  years  at  most,  was  entirely  unknown.  Small  gar- 
dens were  encumbered  with  tall,  unshapely,  and  unfruitful 
trees,  that  afforded  no  pleasure  to  the  cultivator;  and 
thousands  of  persons,  who  are  now  the  most  enthusiastic 
cultivators,  were  entirely  discouraged  from  the  attempt. 

Fruit  gardening,  properly  speaking,  may  be  said  to 
have  only  commenced.  It  is  no  longer  a  matter  of  mere 
utility,  but  taste  also ;  and,  therefore,  adaptation,  variety, 
and  beauty  are  sought  for  in  garden  trees,  and  modes  of 
culture  and  management.  Nothing  so  distinguishes  the 
taste  of  modern  planting  as  the  partiality  for  dwarf  trees, 
and  the  desire  to  obtain  information  in  regard  to  their 
propagation  and  treatment. 

This  has  not  been  anticipated  by  any  of  our  authors. 
The  standard  or  orchard  system  alone  is  fully  treated  of, 
as  being  the  only  one  practised ;  and  this  requires  so  little 
skill  in  the  art  of  culture,  that  only  the  simplest  instruc- 
tions have  been  given.  The  very  elements  of  the  science 
have  been  unexplained  and  unstudied,  and  cultivators  in 
the  main  find  themselves  both  destitute  of  knowledge  in 
regard  to  the  management  of  trees  in  the  more  refined 
and  artificial  forms,  and  the  sources  from  which  to  obtain 
it.  But  a  very  small  proportion  of  those  engaged  or  en- 
gaging in  tree  culture  have  studied  the  physiology  of 
trees  in  any  degree.  Very  few  have  the  slightest  knowl- 
edge of  the  modes  of  growth  and  bearing  of.  the  different 
species  of  fruits,  or  even  of  the  difference  between  wood 


INTRODUCTION    TO    FIRST    EDITION.  XI 

or  leaf-buds  and  fruit-buds.  Very  few  understand  the 
functions  of  the  different  parts  of  trees,  and  the  relation 
in  which  they  stand  one  to  another ;  the  principles  that 
govern  and  regulate  the  growth  and  maturity,  the  forma- 
tion of  wood,  and  the  production  of  fruit.  Practice  is 
no  better  understood  than  principle.  Persons  engaged 
largely  in  tree  growing  will  frequently  ask  the  most  ab- 
surd questions  on  the  subject  of  propagation  of  stocks,  of 
pruning,  etc.,  matters  that  should  be  understood  by  every 
man  who  has  a  single  tree  to  manage,  but  especially  in- 
dispensable to  those  who  wish  to  succeed  in  conducting 
garden-trees  under  certain  modified  forms,  more  or  less 
opposed  to  the  natural.  The  preparation  of  ground,  lay- 
ing out  small  gardens,  the  selection  of  suitable  trees,  and 
a  multitude  of  minor,  but  nevertheless,  important  matters 
are  very  imperfectly  understood.  Neither  our  State  nor 
national  governments  have  ever  manifested  a  disposition 
to  favor  the  rural  arts  with  anything  like  a  liberal  patron- 
izing policy.  Advanced,  wealthy,  and  powerful  as  we  are, 
not  a  single  step  has  been  taken,  in  earnest,  to  establish 
model  farms  or  model  gardens,  in  which  experiments 
might  be  made,  and  examples  given,  that  would  enlighten 
cultivators,  and  elevate  and  honor  their  profession.  What- 
ever advance  has  been  made,  is  due  wholly  to  individual 
taste,  energy,  and  enterprise ;  and  to  these  alone  are  we 
permitted  to  look  for  future  progress. 

Having  for  many  years  devoted  much  attention  to  this 
particular  branch  of  culture,  and  feeling  deeply  interested 
in  its  success,  and  having,  by  a  business  intercourse  with 
cultivators  in  all  parts  of  the  country,  an  ample  opportu- 
nity of  understanding  the  nature  and  extent  of  the  infor- 
mation desired,  I  have  prepared  the  following  pages  to 
supply  it,  at  least,  in  part. 

I  am  well  convinced  that  the  work  is  neither  perfect  nor 
complete.  It  has  been  prepared,  during  a  few  weeks  of 


XII  IXTKODTJCTION    TO    FIKST    EDITION. 

the  winter,  in  the  midst  of  other  engagements  that  ren- 
dered it  impossible  to  bestow  upon  it  the  necessary  care 
and  labor.  My  original  intention  was  to  give  a  few  brief 
directions  for  the  management  of  garden-trees,  but  it  was 
suggested  by  friends  that  it  would  prove  more  generally 
useful  by  adding  a  sketch  of  the  entire  routine  of  opera- 
tions, from  the  propagation  in  the  nursery  to  the  manage- 
ment in  the  orchard  and  garden.  This  has  involved  much 
more  labor  than  it  was  intended  to  bestow  upon  it,  or  than 
I  could  really  spare  frorrubusiness.  It  has,  therefore,  been 
performed  hastily,  and,  of  course,  in  many  respects,  im- 
perfectly; but  yet  it  is  hoped  it  contains  such  an  exposi- 
tion of  principles  and  practices  as  cannot  fail  to  diffuse 
amongst  the  inexperienced  much  needed  information.  All 
doubtful  theories,  and  whatever  had  not  a  direct  practical 
bearing  on  the  subjects  treated,  have  been  excluded,  both 
for  the  sake  of  brevity,  and  to  avoid  anything  calculated 
to  mislead.  The  principles  and  practices  set  forth  are  not 
new,  visionary,  nor  doubtful,  but  such  as  are  taught  and 
practised  by  the  most  accomplished  cultivators  of  the 
day,  and  have  been  successfully  carried  out  in  the  daily 
operations  of  our  own  establishment. 

In  the  pruning  and  management  of  garden-trees,  the 
French  arboriculturists  surpass  all  others.  Their  trees 
are  models  that  have  no  equals,  and  that  all  the  world 
admire.  The  English,  notwithstanding  their  great  gar- 
dening skill,  and  their  refined  and  elegant  modes  of  cul- 
ture, are  far  behind  the  French  in  the  management  of 
fruit-trees.  French  systems  of  pruning  and  training  are 
at  this  moment  advocated  and  held  up  as  models  *.,y  such 
men  as  Mr.  Robert  Thompson,  head  of  the  fruit  depart- 
ment in  the  London  Horticultural  Society's  Garden ;  by 
Mr.  Hivers,  well  known  on  this  side  of  the  Atlantic  as 
one  of  the  most  energetic  and  accomplished  nurserymen 
in  Great  Britain,  and  by  many  others  whose  skill  and 
judgment  command  attention.  Their  introduction  to 


INTRODUCTION    TO    FIRST    EDITION.  XIII 

English  gardens  is  going  on  rapidly,  and  bi<ls  fair  to  revo- 
lutionize their  whole  practice  of  fruit-tree  culture. 

D'Albret's  great  work  on  pruning  is  conceded  to  be  the 
best  extant,  on  that  subject.  He  was  the  pupil  and  suc- 
cessor of  M.  Thouin,  the  world-renowned,  vegetable  physi- 
ologist and  founder  of  the  great  national  gardens  at  Paris. 
His  practice  is  founded  upon  the  true  principles  of  vege- 
table physiology,  and  strengthened  by  long  years  of  the 
most  minute  and  successful  experiment. 

M.  Dubreuil,  late  conductor  of  the  fruit  department  in 
the  Garden  of  Rouen,  has  also  published  an  excellent 
treatise  on  arboriculture ;  and  there  are  many  other  French 
works  on  the  subject,  all  showing  how  thoroughly  the 
science  is  there  understood,  and  how  minutely  and  skil- 
fully its  principles  are  dealt  with.  All  these,  as  well  as 
the  best  managed  gardens,  and  the  most  perfect  and  beau- 
tiful trees  in  France  and  Belgium,  have  been  carefully 
studied. 

The  knowledge  thus  acquired,  added  to  the  experience 
of  many  years'  actual  and  extensive  practice,  constitutes 
the  basis  of  the  course  recommended. 

The  same  minute  detail  that  characterizes  European 
works  has  not  been  attempted,  yet  much  detail  is  abso- 
lutely necessary,  in  order  to  prevent  misapprehension  on 
the  part  of  those  wholly  inexperienced. 

Writers  are  apt  to  treat  simple  matters  too  much  in  the  \ 
general,  presuming  them  to  be  well  understood.      Detail 
13  always  tedious  to  those  familiar  with  the  subject,  but 
nothing  less  can  be  satisfactory  to  the  student.  ^ 

For  the  sake  of  convenient  reference,  the  different 
branches  of  the  subject  have  been  separated  into  four 
parts.  The  first  treats  of  general  principles,  a  knowledge 
of  the  structure,  character,  and  functions  of  the  different 
parts  of  trees,  modes  of  growth,  bearing,  etc.,  etc. ;  soils, 
manures,  modes  of  propagation,  etc.  This  must  be  the 
groundwork  of  the  study  of  tree  culture.  The  seco)id 


XIV  INTRODUCTION   TO    FIRST   EDITION. 

treats  of  the  nursery.  The  third  of  plantations,  orchards 
of  different  kinds,  gardens,  etc. ;  their  laying  out  and 
management,  and  of  the  pruning  and  training  of  trees  in 
different  forms.  The  fourth  contains  abridged  descrip- 
tions of  the  best  fruits,  a  chapter  on  gathering  and  pre- 
serving fruits,  another  on  diseases  and  insects,  and  another 
on  the  implements  in  common  use. 

Illustrations  have  been  introduced  wherever  the  nature 
of  the  subject  seemed  to  require  them,  and  it  was  possible 
to  get  them  prepared.  It  is  believed  that  these  will  prove 
of  great  value  in  imparting  a  correct  knowledge  of  the 
various  subjects.  Upwards  of  one  hundred  of  the  more 
important  figures  have  been  drawn  from  nature  by  Pro- 
fessor Sintzenich,  of  Rochester. 

P.  B. 

Mount  Hope  Garden  and  Nurseries,  \ 
ROCHESTER,  N.  Y.  J 


PREFACE    TO   REVISED   EDITION. 


Twenty  years  ago  the  First  Edition  of  this  Treatise 
was  published.  What  marvellous  changes  have  taken 
place  in  our  country  during  that  period. 

Our  population  has  been  fully  doubled.  The  Railway 
has  spanned  the  continent  and  brought  its  most  remote 
parts  within  a  few  days'  pleasant  travel  of  each  other. 
The  Telegraph  has  brought  together,  as  it  were,  every 
part  of  the  world. 

Territories  that  then  had  scarcely  a  white  inhabitant 
are  now  populous  and  productive  States. 

In  this  general  and  extraordinary  progress,  Fruit  Cul- 
ture seems  to  have  held  its  own. 

In  every  part  of  our  country,  wherever  the  soil  and  cli- 
mate offer  the  least  encouragement,  Fruit  trees  are  planted. 
The  fruits  of  California  attract  almost  as  much  attention 
as  the  products  of  her  mines ;  yet,  twenty  years  ago,  there 
was  scarcely  an  apple  produced  in  the  State,  except  in 
some  of  the  old  mission  gardens. 

Societies  for  the  promotion  of  Fruit  Culture  are  organ- 
ized everywhere.  Books  on  the  subject  are  multiplied 
rapidly. 

Horticultural  periodicals  are  increasing,  and  the  agricul- 
XY 


XVI  PREFACE    TO    REVISED    EDITION. 

tural  journals,  now  so  numerous,  all  give  fruit  culture  spe- 
cial attention. 

We  have  made  important  acquisitions  in  the  way  of  new 
varieties  of  fruits,  particularly  in  grapes,  and  we  have 
gained  much  valuable  experience,  both  in  methods  of  cul- 
ture and  in  regard  to  the  relative  merits  of  varieties  under 
various  circumstances  of  soil,  climate,  etc.,  but  we  have 
yet  much  to  learn.  Questions  of  pruning,  training,  tillage 
of  the  soil,  etc.,  are  djscussed  as  warmly  among  practical 
men  as  they  were  twenty  years  ago.  Diseases,  such  as 
the  "  pear  blight,"  are  as  much  a  mystery  as  ever. 

The  First  Edition  was  hastily  prepared,  and  was,  conse- 
quently, imperfect.  My  intention  was  to  revise  and  cor- 
rect it  very  soon,  but  engagements,  increasing  from  year 
to  year,  caused  it  to  be  neglected.  Some  five  or  six  years 
ago  I  felt  that,  in  many  respects,  it  had  fallen  behind,  and 
had  its  publication  stopped.  Then,  seeing  numerous  other 
works  on  fruit  culture  appear,  I  concluded  not  to  revise  it. 
Lately,  however,  at  the  solicitation  of  friends,  I  have  un- 
dertaken it ;  but,  for  several  reasons,  have  not  been  able 
to  give  it  the  attention  it  demanded. 

The  most  important  part  of  the  revision  has  been  the 
lists  of  varieties  of  fruits  which  are  now  made  to  conform 
to  recent  experience.  Several  other  parts,  however,  have 
been  re-written,  and  others  altered  and  corrected. 

P.  B. 


PART    I. 

GENERAL    PRINCIPLES. 

CHAPTER    I. 

NAMES,  DESCRIPTIONS,  AND  OFFICES  OF  THE  DIFFERENT  PARTS 
OF  FRUIT  TREES,  ...... 

SOILS, 


CHAPTER   II. 


CHAPTER   IH. 


MANURES, 


CHAPTER   IV. 
THE  DIFFERENT  MODES  OF  PROPAGATING  FRUIT  TREES, 

CHAPTER   V. 
PRUNING — ITS  PRINCIPLES  AND  PRACTICE, 

PART    II. 
THE    NURSERY. 

CHAPTER   I. 
SOIL,  SITUATION,  ETC.,        ..... 


21—69 


69—74 


74—80 


80—100 


.    100—118 


.    121—172 


PART    III. 

THE  LAYING  OUT,  ARRANGEMENT,  AND  GENERAL 
MANAGEMENT  OF  PERMANENT  PLANTATIONS 
OF  FRUIT  TREES,  SELECTION  OF  TREES  AND 
VARIETIES,  AND  PRUNING  AND  CONDUCTING 
TREES  UNDER  VARIOUS  FORMS. 

CHAPTER    I. 
PERMANENT  PLANTATIONS  OF  FRUIT  TREES,       .  .  .    175—220 

CHAPTER   II. 

PRUNING  AND  TRAINING  APPLIED  TO  THE  DIFFERENT  SPECIES 

OF  FRUIT  TREES  UNDER  VARIOUS  FORMS,    .  .  .    220—326 

PART    IV. 

SELECT  VARIETIES  OF  FRUITS,  GATHERING  AND 
PRESERVING  FRUITS,  DISEASES,  INSECTS,  IM- 
PLEMENTS IN  COMMON  USE. 

CHAPTER    I. 
ABRIDGED  DESCRIPTIONS  OF  SELECT  VARIETIES  OF  FRUITS,    .    329—437 

CHAPTER   II. 

GATHERING,  PACKING,  TRANSPORTATION,  AND  PRESERVATION 

OF  FRUITS,         .......    437—449 

CHAPTER   III. 
DISEASES  AND  INSECTS,       .  .  .  .  .  .    449—466 

CHAPTER   IV. 
NURSERY,  ORCHARD,  AND  FRUIT-GARDEN  IMPLEMENTS,  .    466—480 


I. 


GENERAL    PRINCIPLES 


GENERAL    PRINCIPLES. 


CHAPTER    I. 

NAMES,  DESCRIPTIONS,   AND   OFFICES   OF  THE  DIF- 
FERENT PARTS  OF  FRUIT-TREES. 

General  Remarks. — A  Tree  is  a  living  body,  composed 
of  many  parts,  such  as  roots,  branches,  leaves,  buds,  blos- 
soms, fruit,  etc.  All  these  have  different  offices  to  fulfil, 
assume  different  forms  and  characters,  and  are  known  and 
designated  from  one  another  by  different  names,  when 
subjected  to  the  practical  operations  of  culture.  Without 
some  knowledge  of  the  names  and  structure  of  these  dif- 
ferent parts,  of  the  principles  that  guide  their  develop- 
ment, their  relative  connection  with,  and  influence  upon 
one  another,  tree  culture  cannot  be,  to  any  man,  really 
pleasant,  intellectual,  or  successful ;  but  a  misty,  uncer- 
tain, unintelligible  routine  of  manual  labor. 

The  industry  of  our  times  is  peculiarly  distinguished 
by  the  application  of  science — the  union  of  theory  with 
practice  in  every  department ;  and  surely  the  votaries  of 
the  garden,  whose  labors,  of  all  others,  should  be  intelli- 
gent, will  not  allow  themselves  to  fall  behind,  and  per- 
form their  labors  in  the  dark. 

Fully  sensible  of  the  importance  of  this  preliminary 
study,  and  confident  that  the  minute  and  practical  details 
of  culture  cannot  be  well  understood  without  it,  I  propose 
here,  before  entering  upon  the  main  subject,  to  describe, 
in  as  few  and  as  plain  words  as  possible,  the  structure, 
character,  connection,  and  respective  offices  of  the  various 
21 


GENERAL    PRINCIPLES. 


parts  of  fruit-trees,  and   the    names   by  which    each   is 
known  in  practice. 

SECTION  1. — THE  ROOT. 

THE  ROOT  is  composed  of  several  parts. 
1st.  The  collar  (A,  fig.  1),  which  is  the  center  of 
growth,  or  point  of  union  be- 
tween the  root  and  stem,  usu- 
ally at  or  just  below  the  surface 
of  the  ground.  In  root  grafting 
seedlings,  this  is  the  point  where 
the  graft  is  set. 

2d.  The  body  or  main  root 
(J5,  fig.  1),  which  usually  pene- 
trates the  earth  in  a  vertical  di- 
rection, and  decreases  in  size  as 
it  proceeds  downwards  from  the 
collar.  It  is  also  called  the  tap- 
root. A  seedling  that  has  not 
been  transplanted  has  usually 
but  one  descending  or  tap-root, 
furnished,  in  all  its  length,  with 
minute  hairy  fibres. 

3d.  The  lateral  roots  (C,  fig. 
1)  are  principal  divisions  or 
branches  of  the  main  root,  and 
take  more  or  less  of  a  spreading 
or  horizontal  direction.  When 
seedlings  are  transplanted,  a  por- 
tion of  the  tap-root  is  cut  off,  and 
these  lateral,  or  side  roots,  are 
immediately  formed. 

4th.  The  fibres  or  rootlets  (Z>,  fig.  1)  are  the  minute 
hair-like  roots  which  we  see  most  abundant  on  trees  that 
have  been  frequently  transplanted.  Difterent  species  of 


Fig.  1.— A  TREE. 
A,  the  Collar ;  B,  the  Main  Root ; 
C,  Lateral  Root ;  Z>,  Fibres ;  E, 
Stem,  or  Trunk ;  ^,Main  Branch- 
es ;  G,  Secondary  Branches  ;  H, 
Shoots  of  one  year's  growth. 


THE    BOOT.  23 

trees  vary  much  in  their  natural  tendency  to  produce 
fibres.  Thus  the  pear  and  the  apple  require  frequent 
transplanting,  and  often  root  pruning,  to  produce  that 
fibrous  condition,  which  is  necessary  to  great  fruitfulness ; 
whilst  the  roots  of  the  paradise  apple,  used  as  a  stock  for 
dwarf  trees,  and  the  quince,  are  always  quite  fibrous,  the 
former  never,  and  the  latter  seldom,  requiring  root 
pruning. 

The  Spongioles  is  a  term,  which  was  formerly  applied 
to  the  extremities  of  the  root  fibres,  it  being  supposed 
that  these  tips  were  especial  organs  through  which  the 
plant  absorbed  its  food  from  the  soil.  Later  observations 
have  shown  that  the  absorbing  surface  of  the  rootlet  is 
not  at  the  very  extremity,  but  just  back  of  it ;  and  that 
instead  of  there  being  a  spongiole,  or  spongelet,  the  spe- 
cial office  of  which  is  to  take  up  moisture,  all  the  newly 
formed  root  surface  does  this  work,  in  which  it  is  facili- 
tated by  great  numbers  of  root  hairs,  which  are  delicate 
projections  from  the  surface,  and  so  minute  as  to  be  only 
visible  by  the  aid  of  a  microscope.  The  root  fibres  are 
composed  of  soft,  newly  formed,  delicate  tissue,  and  are 
exceedingly  susceptible  of  injury.  The  slightest  bruise, 
or  exposure  to  a  dry  or  cold  air,  is  fatal  to  them ;  and  this 
is  the  reason  why  transplanted  trees  generally  receive 
such  a  severe  check,  and  so  frequently  die.  If  trees  could 
be  taken  up  in  such  a  way  that  the  root  fibres  could  all,  or 
mostly,  be  preserved,  trees  would  receive  no  check  what- 
ever. By  taking  proper  precautions,  large  trees  are  re- 
moved in  midsummer  without  a  leaf  flagging. 

The  Growth  of  Hoots. — The  root  increases  in  length 
by  additions  to  its  extreme  point  only.  It  does  not  ex- 
tend throughout  its  whole  length,  as  does  the  joint  of  a 
stem.  This  manner  of  growth  allows  it  to  accommodate 
itself  to  the  obstacles  that  it  meets  in  its  course.  The  ex- 
tremities of  the  roots,  at  first,  consist  of  cellular  tissue 
only,  but  soon  woody  fibre  is  formed  in  them,  and  their 


24  GENERAL    PRINCIPLES. 

internal  structure  is,  essentially,  like  that  of  the  stem, 
which  will  be  described  further  along.  The  material  for 
the  growth  of  the  root  is  supplied  by  the  stem  and  leaves 
above,  and  these,  in  turn,  are  furnished  with  the  crude 
material  for  their  own  support  and  enlargement  by  the 
roots.  The  parts  of  the  tree  above  the  surface  of  the 
ground,  and  those  below  it,  are  dependent  each  upon  the 
other  for  growth  and  existence.  Practical  cultivators 
are  familiar  with  many  facts  that  illustrate  the  intimate 
relations  and  mutual  dependency  of  the  roots  and  stems. 
For  instance,  where  one  portion  of  the  head  or  branches 
is  much  larger  or  more  vigorous  than  the  other,  if  the 
roots  be  examined,  it  will  be  found  that  those  immedi- 
ately under,  or  in  direct  connection  with  the  largest 
branches,  will  have  a  corresponding  size  and  vigor.  In 
cases  where  one  side  of  the  top  of  a  large  tree  is  cut  off, 
as  in  top  grafting,  a  large  number  of  new  shoots  are  pro- 
duced on  the  cut  branch,  and,  if  the  roots  be  examined 
under,  or  in  connection  with  this  branch,  a  corresponding 
new  growth  will  be  found  there.  It  is  quite  obvious, 
from  these  and  similar  facts,  that  whatever  affects  the 
roots  or  stems  of  trees,  favorably  or  unfavorably,  affects 
the  whole  tree.  If  the  foliage  of  a  tree  be  entirely  re- 
moved in  the  growing  season,  the  absorbent  action  of  the 
roots  is  suspended  ;  and  if  the  absorbing  portions  of  the 
roots  be  cut  off,  the  growth  of  the  top  instantly  ceases. 

SECTION  2. — THE  STEM. 

The  Stem  is  that  part  of  a  tree  which  starts  from  the 
collar,  and  grows  upwards.  It  sustains  all  the  branches, 
and  forms  the  medium  of  communication  between  the 
different  parts  of  the  tree,  from  one  extremity  to  the 
other. 

Plants,  like  the  grape,  with  twining,  or  climbing  stems, 
are  called  vines;  and  such  as  have  no  main  stem,  but  have 


THE    STEM.  25 

* 

branches  diverging  from  the  collar,  as  the  gooseberry, 
currant,  etc.,  are  called  shrubs ,  or  bushes.  Where  the 
stem  is  destitute  of  branches  to  some  distance  from  the 
ground,  it  is  usually  called  the  trunk. 

Different  Parts  of  the  Stem. — A  stem,  or  branch  of  a 
tree,  is  composed  of  the  following  parts,  which  are  dis- 
tinctly observable  when  we  cut  it  across.    Figure  2  repre- 
sents a  portion  of  a  stem  of  a  young  tree,  one  year  old, 
A  , 


CO      JS         F 

Fig.  2.— SECTION  OF  A  STEM   ONE  YEAR  OLD— MAGNIFIED. 

A,  Bark  ;  B,  Wood ;  C,  Epidermis  ;  Z?,  Corky  Layer ;  E,  Green  Layer ;  F,  Inner 

Bark,  or  Liber;    (?,  Pith;   H,  Medullary  Rays;  /,  Woody  Fibre;  K,  Dotted 

Ducts ;  L,  Spiral  Ducts. 

so  cut  as  to  show  a  cross  section,  and  a  longitudinal  one 
at  the  same  time.  The  bark,  included  in  the  dotted  line 
A,  consists  of  an  outer  and  inner  bark. 

The  Rind,  or  Outer  BarJc,  is  composed  of  three  layers. 

1.  The  Epidermis,  or  Cuticle  (C),  which  is  found  only 
on  recent  shoots,  and  the  young  parts  of  trees ;  this  is 
thin,  smooth,  and  delicate,  like  tissue  paper,  and  is  easily 
separated  from  the  parts  beneath  it.     Next  within  this  is 

2.  The  Corky  Layer  (D),  which  is  usually  of  some 
shade  of  brown  or  ash  color;  this,  seen  through  the  epi- 

2 


26  GENERAL   PRINCIPLES. 

«r 

dermis,  gives  to  the  young  growth  of  trees  its  peculiar 
color,  by  means  of  which  the  experienced  cultivator  is 
enabled  to  distinguish  varieties,  even  when  not  in  leaf. 
Within  the  corky  layer  is 

3.  The  Green  Layer  (E),  which  gives  to  the  young 
shoots  their  green  color.  This,  as  the  wood  ripens,  is 
soon  covered  by  the  corky  layer. 

The  Inner  Bark,  or  Liber  (F). — This  is  the  interior 
portion  of  the  bark,  in  immediate  contact  with  the  wood. 
It  is  composed  of  perpendicular  layers  of  soft,  flexible 
but  very  tough  fibres.  It  is  this  part  of  the  bark  of  the 
Bass\vood  that  is  used  for  tying  in  budding,  etc.,  the  tissue 
being  separated  by  maceration. 

The  bark  remains  with  these  distinct  layers,  only  for  .1 
few  years.  It  scales  off,  and  falls  away  in  forms  varying 
with  the  kind  of  tree,  but  in  all  cases  a  portion  of  the  in- 
ner bark  is  left  attached  to  the  tree.  In  the  grape-vine, 
the  inner  bark,  or  -liber,  is  renewed  each  year,  and  that 
formed  the  year  before  is  thrown  off  in  long  shreds. 

Within  the  bark  we  have  the  Avood,  and  in  the  center 
the  pith.  The  wood  is  divided  into 

1.  The  Sap-wood  (included  in  the  dotted  line  £). — This 
is  the  youngest,  or  last  formed,  layer  of  wood,  immediate- 
ly below  the  inner  bark.     It  is  distinguished  in  all  trees 
by  being  softer  and  lighter  colored  than  the  older  parts. 

2.  The  "Heart,  or   Perfect  wood. — This   is  the  central, 
or  interior  portion  of  the  stem,  or  branch,  grown  firm  and 
mature  by  age.     It  is  generally  a  shade  darker  in  color 
than  the  newly  formed  part,  or  sap-wood.     As  the  en- 
graving, fig.  2,  shows  a  stem  only  one  year  old,  this  is 
not  represented. 

3.  The  Pith  (6r). — This  is  the  soft,  spongy  substance 
in  the  center  of  the  stem  nnd  branches.     In  soft-wooded 
species,  like  the  grape-vine,  it  is  large  ;  in  hard-wooded 
species,  as  the  apple,  pear,  quince,  etc.,  it  is  small.    In  young 
shoots  it  is  soft,  green,  and  succulent,  and  fills  an  impor* 


THE    STEM.  27 

tant  part  in  their  development.  In  the  old  part  it  is  dry, 
shrivelled,  and  seems  incapable  of  taking  any  part  in  the 
process  of  vegetation,  and  this  appears  evident  from  the 
fact  that  trees  often  continue  to  nourish  after  the  center, 
containing  the  pith,  has  begun  to  decay. 

/Structure  of  the  Stein.  — The  stem  is  composed  of 
woody  fibre  and  cellular  tissue,  a  substance  similar  to  the 
pith.  The  woody  fibre  is  arranged  in  perpendicular  lay- 
ers, and  the  cellular  tissue  in  horizontal  layers,  running 
from  the  pith  to  the  bark  and  connecting  them.  The 
mingling  of  these  two  systems  gives  to  the  surface  of  the 
cross  section  of  a  stem  the 
beautiful  veined  or  netted  ap- 
pearance observable  in  fig.  3, 
which  represents  the  cross- 
section  of  an  oak  branch.  The 
perpendicular  layers  of  woody 
fibre  are  most  clearly  observ- 
able when  we  cut  a  stem  ver- 
tically; they  are  then  easily 
separated  from  one  another.  Fig.  3.  —  SECTION  OF  A  BKANCH 
The  layers,  or  plates  of  tissue  OF  OAK- 

radiating  from  the  center  to  the  circumference  of  the  stem 
and  inner  bark  are  called  the  medullary  rays.  Two  of  these 
are  shown  in  fig.  2,  marked  by  the  dotted  lines  H. 

Growth  of  the  Stem. — The  stem  of  a  tree  is  originally 
the  extension  of  the  cellular  tissue  of  the  seed.  As  soon 
as  leaves  are  formed  they  organize  new  matter,  which  de- 
scends and  forms  woody  fibres :  the  layers  sent  down 
from  the  first  leaves  are  covered  by  those  sent  down 
from  the  next,  and  so  on,  one  layer  after  another  is  pro- 
duced until  the  end  of  the  season,  when  the  leaves  fall  and 
growth  ceases.  A  yearling  tree  has,  therefore,  a  greater 
number  of  layers  of  woody  fibre  at  the  collar  than  at  the 
top,  and  is,  consequently,  thicker;  the  second  year  the 
buds  on  the  first  year's  growth  produce  shoots,  and  these 


28  GENERAL   PRINCIPLES. 

organize  new  layers  of  woody  fibre,  that  descend  and  cover 
those  of  the  previous  year,  and  thus  growth  proceeds  from 
year  to  year.  Between  each  year's  growth  there  is  gener- 
ally a  line,  in  some  cases  more  conspicuous  than  in  others, 
that  marks  off  the  formation  of  each  year,  so  that  we  are 
able  to  reckon  the  ages  of  trees  with  great  accuracy  by 
these  rings.  When  it  happens  that  a  tree,  from  certain 
circumstances,  makes  more  growth  one  reason  than  an- 
other, we  find  the  ring  of  that  season  larger.  The  new 
wood  in  all  our  northern  trees  is  always  formed  between 
the  inner  bark  and  the  last  layer  of  wood,  so  that  one 
layer  is  laid  upon,  and  outside  of  another,  and  the  bark 
is  continually  pressed  outwards. 

The  new  layers  of  bark  are  also  formed  at  the  same 
place,  or  within  the  previous  one.  From  this  mode  of 
growth,  it  results  that  each  layer  of  wood  is  more  deeply 
imbedded  as  others  are  formed  above  it ;  and  each  layer 
of  bark  is  pressed  outwards  as  others  are  formed  within 
it.  In  some  cases,  as  in  the  cherry,  for  example,  the  bark 
is  so  tough  as  not  always  to  yield  to  the  general  expansion 
of  the  tree,  and  slitting  is  resorted  to  for  the  purpose  of 
preventing  an  unnatural  rupture,  which  would  eventually 
take  place  by  the  continued  pressure  of  growth  from 
within. 

SECTION  3. — BRANCHES. 

Branches  are  the  divisions  of  the  stem,  and  have  an 
organization  precisely  similar :  they  are  designated  as, 

1st.  Main  Branches  (F,  fig.  1) ;  those  that  are  directly 
connected  with  the  stem  or  trunk.  In  pyramidal  trees, 
they  are  called  lateral  branches.  The  branches  of  different 
species  and  varieties  of  fruit  trees,  differ  much  in  their 
habits  of  growth ;  and  it  is  highly  important  to  the 
planter  to  consider  these  peculiarities,  because  certain 
habits  of  growth  are  better  adapted  to  particular  circum- 


BRANCHES. 


stances  than  others.  Thus  we  have  erect  branches  (fig.  4), 
which  produce  trees  of  an  upright  and  compact  form. 
Curved  erect  branches  (fig.  5),  proceeding  almost  horizon- 
tally from  the  stem  for  a  short  distance,  and  then  becoming 
erect;  these,  also,  form  upright  symmetrical  heads,  but 
much  more  open  than  the  preceding.  Also,  horizontal, 
or  spreading  branches  (fig.  6),  that  form  wide-spreading 


Fig.  4.  Fig.  5.  Fig.  6. 

DIFFERENT  HABITS  OF  GROWTH  OF   TREES. 
Fig.  4,  Erect ;  Fig.  5,  Curved  Erect ;  Fig.  6,  Spreading,  or  Horizontal. 

heads  with  irregular  outline.  And,  lastly,  drooping 
branches,  when  they  fall  below  the  horizontal  line.  The 
branches  of  most  varieties  of  apples  and  pears  become 
pendulous  when  they  have  borne  for  some  time ;  and  even 
in  young  trees  of  particular  varieties,  some  of  the  branches 
assume  a  drooping  and  irregular  habit. 

2d.  Secondary  Branches  ( 6r,  fig.  1),  are  the  divisions 
of  the  main  branches  :  occasionally  those  near  the  stem 
take  such  a  prominent  part  in  forming  the  outline  of  the 
tree,  as  to  assume  all  the  character  of  main  branches,  ex- 
cepting in  position. 


30 


GENERAL    PRINCIPLES. 


3d.  Shoots  (H,  fig.  1).  This  is  the  name  by  which 
young  parts  are  designated  from  the  time  they  emerge 
from  the  bud  until  they  have  completed  their  first  season's 
growth.  These  have  also  important  peculiarities  that 
serve  to  distinguish  certain  varieties.  They  are  variously 
designated  as  stout  or  slender,  stiff1  or  flexible,  erect  or 
spreading,  short-jointed  if  the  buds  be  close  together, 


Fig.  7.  Fig.  8.  Fig.  9. 

Fig.  7,  Wood-branch  of  the  Apple;  Fig.  8,  Fruit-branch:  A,  B,  C,  Young  Fruit- 
spurs  on  two-year-old  wood ;  Fig.  9,  Fruit-branch  of  the  Pear ;  A,  B,  C,  Young 
Spurs  on  two-year-old  wood. 

and  long-jointed  when  the  contrary.  The  colors  of  their 
barks  are  also  strikingly  different,  and. form  very  obvious 
distinctions  amongst  varieties.  The  Snow  Peach,  for  in- 
stance, has  pale  greenish  shoots,  by  which  it  is  at  once 
distinguished.  The  Jargonelle,  Rostiezer,  and  many  other 
varieties  of  the  pear,  have  dark  purplish  shoots,  while  the 


BRANCHES. 


31 


Dix  and  /St.  Germain  are  quite  yellowish,  the  Glou  Mor- 
ceau,  grey  or  drab,  and  the  Bartlett  and  Buffum  quite 
reddish.  The  shoots  of  certain  varieties  of  apples  and 
pears,  and  especially  plums,  are  distinguished  by  being 
downy,  as  they  are  furnished  to  a  greater  or  less  extent 
with  a  soft  and  hairy  covering — in  some  cases  barely  ob- 
servable. 

4th.  Wood-Branches  (fig.  7),  are  those  bearing  only 
wood  buds. 

5th.  Fruit-Branches  are  those  bearing  fruit  buds  ex- 
clusively. They  are  presented  to  us  under  different  forms 
and  circumstances,  all  of  which  it  is  of  the  highest  im- 
portance to  understand. 

In  kernel-fruits,  such  as  the  apple  and  pear,  the  most 
ordinary  form  of  the 
fruit  branch  is  that 
generally  called  the 
fruit-spur  (A,  B,  (7, 
figs.  8,  9,  10).  It  ap- 
pears first  as  a  promi- 
nent bud,  as  in  fig.  8, 
on  wood  at  least  two 
years  old;  and  for 
two  or  three  seasons  it 
produces  but  a  rosette 
of  leaves,  and  con- 
tinues to  increase  in 
length,  as  in  fig.  10. 
After  it  has  produced 
fruit,  it  generally  branches,  and,  if  properly  managed, 
will  bear  fruit  for  many  years.  Apple  and  pear-trees  of 
bearing  age,  and  in  a  fruitful  condition,  will  .be  found 
covered  with  these  spurs  on  all  parts  of  the  head,  except 
the  young  shoots.  In  addition  to  the  fruit-spur,  there 
are,  on  the  kernel-fruits,  slender  fruit-branches,  about  as 
large  as  a  goose  quill,  and  from  six  to  eight  inches  in 


Fig.  10.— FRUIT-BRANCH  OP  THE  PEAR. 
A,  B,  <?,  Older  Spurs. 


GENERAL   PRINCIPLES. 


length  (fig.  11) ;  the  buds  are  long,  narrow,  and  promi- 
nent, and  the  first  year  or  two  after  their  appearance, 
produce  but  rosettes  of  leaves,  yielding  fruit  generally 
about  the  third  year.  On  trees 
well  furnished  with  fruit-spurs, 
these  slender  branches  are  of  little 
account,  but  they  are  useful  on 
young  trees  itot  fully  in  a  bearing 
state.  They  are  generally  pro- 
duced on  the  lower  or  older  parts 
of  the  branches  or  stem,  and,  in 
the  first  place,  are  slender  shoots 
with  wood-buds  only  ;  but  owing 
to  their  unfavorable  position  and 
feeble  structure,  they  receive  only 
a  small  portion  of  the  ascending 
sap,  and  the  consequence  is,  they 
become  stunted,  and  transformed 
into  fruit-branches.  In  pruning 
young  trees,  slender  shoots  are 
frequently  bent  over,  or  fastened 
in  a  crooked  position  to  transform 
them  into  fruit-branches  of  this 
kind  ;  but  this  will  be  treated  of 
in  its  proper  place. 

Certain  varieties  of  apples  have 
a  natural  habit  of  bearing  the  fruit 
on  the  points  of  the  lateral  shoots ; 
and  frequently  these  terminal 
fruit-buds  are  formed  during  the 
first  season's  growth  of  the  shoot.  Fig.  12  is  an  example ; 
A,  is  the  point  where  a  fruit  was  borne  last  season  ;  It,  a 
shoot  of  last  season  ;  and  (7,  its  terminal  bud,  which  is  a 
fruit-bud.  The  fruit-branches  of  the  peach,  apricot,  and 
nectarine,  are  productions  of  one  season's  growth ;  the 
fruit-buds  form  one  season  and  blossom  the  next ;  but  as 


Fig.  11.  Fig.  12. 

Fig.  11,  slender  fruit-branch 
of  the  apple— all  the  buds  arc 
fruit-buds.  Fig.  12,  a  branch 
of  the  apple  showing  the 
tendency  of  some  varieties  to 
bear  on  the  points  of  the 
branches.  A,  the  point  where 
the  fruit  was  borne  last  sea- 
son ;  B,  a  shoot  of  last  year ; 
C,  its  terminal  fruit-bud. 


BRANCHES. 


33 


on   the  apple  and    pear,  there   are    different 
forms  of  the  fruit-branch. 

In  the  first  place  the  fruit-spur  (fig.  13),  a 
group  of  buds  like  a  bouquet ;  these  are  little 
stunted  branches  on  the  older  wood  that  have 
assumed  this  form.  The  most  important  fruit- 
branches  of  these  trees  are  the  vigorous  shoots 
of  last  season's  growth,  containing  both  fruit- 
and  wood-buds  (fig.  14),  and  the  slender  fruit- 
branches,  bearing  all  single  fruit-buds,  except 
a  wood-bud  or  two  at  the  base.  Fig.  15, 
represents  such  a  branch 
of  the  peach,  A  and  B 
being  wood-buds.  The 
fruit  -  branches  of  the 
plum  and  cherry,  and 
the  gooseberry  and  cur- 
rant are  similarly  pro- 
duced. A  yearling  shoot 
for  instance,  the  second 
season,  will  produce  a 
shoot  from  its  terminal 
bud,  and  probably  shoots  from  two  or  three 
other  buds  immediately  below  the  terminal, 
whilst  those  lower  down  will  be  transformed 
into  fruit-buds,  and  produce  fruit  the  third 
season.  Fig.  16  is  a  branch  of  the  cherry.  A 
is  the  two-year-old  wood ;  B,  one  year ;  C  and 
J9,  fruit-spurs  on  the  two-year-old  wood,  with 
a  wood-bud  usually  at  the  point.  Fig.  17  is  a 
fruit  spur  from  the  older  wood  ;  A,  the  wood- 
bud  at  its  point.  Fig.  18  is  a  branch  of  the 
plum  ;  A,  the  two-year-old  wood ;  J5,  one  year 


Fig.  14,  mixed  wood  and  fruit-branches  of  the  peach  ;  B,  C,  D,  2?,  fruit-buds ; 
F,  G,  H,  leaf-buds  ;  J,  double  buds ;  (7,  triple  buds,  the  two  side  buds  being  fruit- 
buds,  and  the  center  one,  a  leaf-bud. 

2* 


Fig.  13.— FRUIT-SPUR    OP 

THE  PEACH  ON  THE  OLD 
WOOD. 


34 


GENERAL    PRINCIPLES. 


old;  C  and  .Z>,  spurs.  Fig.  19  is  a  fruit-spur  from  older 
wood.  The  wood-bud  in  the  centre  of  these  groups  of 
buds  on  the  spur  enables  them  to  increase  in  length  every 


Fig.  16. 


Fig.  17. 


Fig.  15. 


Fig.  15,  a  slender  fruit-branch  of  the  peach ;  all  the  buds  except  A  and  B,  and 

the  terminal  one,  are  fruit-buds.    Fig.  16,  branch  of  the  cherry ;  A,  two-year-old 

wood  ;  jB,  one  year;  Cand  Z>,  fruit-spurs.    Fig.  17,  fruit-ppur  of  the  cherry;  the 

bud^l,  in  the  center  of  the  group,  is  a  wood-bud. 

season.     New  buds  are  produced  to  replace  those  that 
bear,  and  so  the  spurs  continue  fruitful  for  several  years, 


BUDS.  35 

according   to  the  vigor  of  the  tree,  and  the  manner  in 
which  it  is  treated. 

The  fruit-branches  of  the  quince  and  the  medlar  are 


Fig.  18.  Fig.  19. 

Fig.  18,  branch  of  the  plum ;   A,  two-year-old  wood ;   B<  one  year  old ;  C  and 
Z>,  spurs.    Fig.  19,  fruit-spur  of  the  plum  on  the  old  wood. 

slender   twigs  on  the  sides  of  lateral  branches,  and  the 
fruit  is  borne  on  their  points. 

SECTION  4. — BUDS. 

1st.  The  Nature  and  Functions  of  Suds. — In  a  practi- 
cal point  of  view,  buds  are  certainly  the  most  important 
organs  of  trees,  because  it  is  through  them  we  are  enabled 
completely  to  direct  and  control  their  forms  and  their 
productiveness.  Whoever,  therefore,  wishes  to  become 
a  skilful  and  successful  tree  culturist,  must  not  fail  to 


36  GENERAL    PRINCIPLES. 

make  himself  familiar  with  all  their  forms,  modifications, 
modes  of  development,  and  the  purposes  they  are  adapted 
to  fulfil  in  the  formation  of  the  tree  and  its  products.  The 
immediate  causes  of  the  production  of  buds  on  the  grow- 
ing shoots  of  trees,  and  the  sources  from  which  they  spring 
or  in  which  they  originate,  are  alike  thus  far  mysterious, 
notwithstanding  they  have  been  the  subject  of  a  vast  deal 
of  research  and  speculation  among  the  botanists  and  vege- 
table physiologists.  We  are  able,  however,  to  trace  clear- 
ly and  satisfactorily  the  objects  they  are  intended  to  fulfil 
in  the  development  of  the  tree,  their  connection  with,  and 
dependency  upon  other  parts,  and  the  circumstances  un- 
der which  they  can  be  made  to  accomplish  specific  pur- 
poses. 

Every  bud  contains  the  rudiments  of,  and  is  capable 
under  favorable  circumstances  of  producing,  a  new  indi- 
vidual similar  to  that  on  which  it  is  borne. 

This  fact  is  clearly  demonstrated  in  the  propagation  of 
trees  by  budding,  where  a  single  eye  is  removed  from  one 
shoot  and  placed  in  the  wood  of  another,  to  which  it 
unites  and  forms  a  new  individual  similar  to  its  parent. 
So  in  propagation  by  eyes,  as  in  the  grape-vine,  where  a 
single  bud  with  a  small  portion  of  wood  attached,  becomes 
a  perfect  plant. 

Every  perfect  bud  we  find  on  a  young  yearling  tree  or 
shoot  is  capable  of  being  developed  into  a  branch.  Ka- 
turally,  they  all  do  not  develope  ;  but  we  know  that  by 
the  application  of  art  they  can  be  readily  forced  to  do  so. 

For  instance,  the  buds  of  a  yearling  tree,  if  left  to  take 
their  natural  course,  will  only  in  part  produce  branches, 
and  these  will  generally  be  nearer  to  the  extremities, 
where  they  are  the  most  excitable ;  but  we  can  cause  the 
lower  ones  to  develope  branches,  by  cutting  off  those 
above  them  to  the  extent  that  the  particular  character  of 
the  species  or  variety,  or  of  the  buds  themselves  in  respect 
to  vigor  and  vitality,  may  require.  Hence  it  is  that  the 


BFDS.  37 

forms  of  trees  are  so  completely  under  our  control  when 
we  possess  the  requisite  knowledge  of  the  character  and 
modes  of  vegetation  of  buds. 

2d.  The  Names  and  Characters  of  Buds. — All  buds  are 
either,  1st,  terminal,  as  when  on  the  points  of  shoots  ((7, 
fig.  20) ;  2d,  axillary,  when  situated  in  the  angle  made  by 
the  projection  of  a  leaf  from  the  shoot  or  branch  (A,  B, 
fig.  20) ;  3d,  adventitious  or  accidental,  when  originating 
accidentally,  as  it  were,  or  without  any  regularity,  on  the 
older  parts  of  trees,  and  not  in  the  axil  of  a  leaf.  They 
are  often  produced  by  the  breaking  or  cutting  off  of  a 
branch,  or  by  a  wound  or  incision  made  in  the  bark.  In 
the  management  of  trained  trees,  special  means  are  taken 


Fig.  20. 
A)  a  superior  bud ;  5.  inferior ;  C,  terminal :  A  and  5,  axillary. 

to  produce  these  buds  on  spaces  of  the  trunk  that  it  is  de- 
sirable to  fill  up.  We  sometimes  see  instances  of  such 
buds  on  the  stumps  of  old  trees. 

The  terminal  and  axillary  buds  produced  on  young 
shoots,  seem  to  have  a  different  origin  from  these  ac- 
cidental buds — the  former  are  connected  with  the  pith  of 
the  shoot,  as  we  may  see  by  dissecting  them.  On  cutting 
into  a  young  shoot  below  a  bud  we  find  a  cylinder  of  pith 
entering  into  the  bud  from  the  pith  of  the  shoot,  but  we 
do  not  find  this  connection  existing  in  the  case  of  the 
adventitious  buds. 

Practically  considered,  buds  are  classified  as  follows: — 
1.  lateral. — Those  on  the   sides  or   circumference  of 


38  GENERAL    PRINCIPLES. 

shoots,  being  the  axillary  buds  of  the  botanist  (A,  _Z?,  fig. 
20). 

2.  Terminal. — Those  on  the  points  of  shoots  ( C,  fig.  20). 

3.  Superior. — Those  on    the  upper    side  of  horizontal 
branches  (A,  fig.  20). 

4.  Inferior.  — Those  on    the    lower  side  of  horizontal 
branches  (J5,  fig.  20). 

5.  Stipular. — The  small,  barely  visible  buds  found   at 
the  base  of  ordinary  buds. 

6.  Dormant  or  Latent. — These  are  scarcely  apparent 
buds,  generally  towards  the  base  of  branches  :  They  may 
remain  dormant  for  several  years,  and  then,  in  some  spe- 
cies, be  excited  into  growth  by  pruning  close  to  them. 

Buds  are  again  classed  as  leaf-buds  and  fruit-buds. 

7.  Leaf-Buds  (F,  G,  H,  fig.  14),  produce  either  leaves 
or  branches  ;  they  differ  in  form  from  fruit-buds  in  being 
in  most  cases  longer  and  more  pointed  in  the  same  species. 

These  are  again  designated  as— 

Single,  when  only  one  is  produced  at  the  same  point 
(H,  fig.  14). 

Double,  when  two  are  together  (I,  fig.  14). 

Triple,  when  in  threes  (G  and  J,  fig.  14). 

These  double  and  triple  buds  are  almost  peculiar  to  the 
stone  fruits,  and  especially  the  peach,  apricot,  and  necta- 
rine. 

The  size,  form,  and  prominence  of  leaf-buds  vary  in  a 
striking  degree  in  different  varieties  of  the  same  species, 
and  these  peculiarities  are  found  to  be  of  considerable 
service  in  identifying  and  describing  sorts.  Thus,  the 
buds  of  one  variety  will  be  long,  pointed  and  compressed, 
or  lying  close  to  the  shoot.  Others  will  be  large,  oval 
and  prominent,  or  standing  boldly  out  from  the  shoot. 
Others  will  be  small,  full,  and  round.  For  instance, 
the  wood-buds  of  the  G-lout  Morceau  are  short  and  coni- 
cal, broad  at  the  base,  and  taper  suddenly  to  a  very  sharp 
point  inclined  towards  the  shoot;  they  have  also  very 


BUDS.  39 

prominent  shoulders ;  that  is,  their  base  forms  a  prominent 
projection  on  the  shoot.  The  scales  are  also  dark,  with 
light  gray  edges.  In  the  Josephine  de  Malines  pear  the 
buds  are  quite  remarkable  for  their  roundness,  bhmtness, 
and  prominence.  If  shoots  of  the  Bartlett  and  Seckel 
pears,  two  well-known  varieties,  be  compared,  although 
they  present  no  decidedly  obvious  peculiarities,  yet  they 
will  be  found  very  different.  Those  of  the  Seckel  are  much 
broader  at  the  base,  more  pointed,  and  lighter  colored, 
being  a  dark  drab,  whilst  those  of  the  Bartlett  are  red- 
dish. These  miscellaneous  instances  are  chosen  simply  to 
draw  attention  to  these  points,  and  to  show  the  ordinary 
modes  of  comparison.  When  we  speak  of  leaf-buds,  we 
have  reference  only  to  the  simple  bud  and  not  to  the 
large,  pointed,  spur-like  productions  frequently  produced 
towards  the  middle  or  lower  part  of  young  shoots  that 
have  made  a  second  growth ;  that  is,  where  growth  has  ceas- 
ed for  a  while  and  the  terminal  bud  has  been  formed,  and 
afterwards,  in  the  same  season,  commenced  anew,  and 
made  a  second  growth. 

8.  Fruit-Buds. — In  the  early  stages  of  their  formation 
and  growth  all  buds  are  but  leaf-buds.  Thus,  on  a  young 
shoot  of  the  cherry  and  the  plum,  for  example,  of  one  sea- 
son's growth,  the  buds  are  all  leaf-buds.  The  next  spring 
a  part  of  these  produce  new  shoots,  and  others  are  trans- 
formed into  fruit-buds  that  will  bear  fruit  the  following 
season.  The  transformation  is  accomplished  during  the 
second  year  of  their  existence,  and  it  usually  happens  that 
they  are  the  smallest  and  least  fully  developed  that  are  so 
transformed ;  the  more  vigorous  pushing  into  branches. 
In  the  peach,  the  apricot,  etc.,  on  which  the  fruit-buds 
are  produced  in  one  year,  the  change  from  a  leaf-bud  to  a 
fruit-bud  occurs  towards  the  latter  part  of  the  season. 
The  primary  cause  of  the  transformation  of  leaf-buds 
into  fruit-buds  is  not  satisfactorily  known,  although  many 
theories  exist  on  the  subject.  Observation  has  taught  us 


40  GENERAL   PRINCIPLES. 

many  things  in  relation  to  it.  It  seems  that  all  trees  must 
acquire  a  certain  maturity,  either  natural  or  forced,  in 
order  to  produce  blossoms  or  fruit.  A  tree  that  is  fur- 
nished with  a  rich,  humid  soil,  containing  an  abundance 
of  watery  nutriment,  and  left  in  all  respects  unrestrained 
in  its  upward  growth,  may  attain  the  age  of  ten  or  fifteen 
years  before  it  commences  to  form  fruit-buds ;  while  in  a 
soil  of  a  different  quality,  dry  and  less  favorable  to  rapid 
growth,  or  if  constrained  in  its  growth  by  being  grafted 
on  some  particular  stock,  or  by  some  particular  mode  of 
training,  it  may  produce  fruit  in  two  or  three  years. 

An  apple-tree  on  a  common  stock,  planted  out  in  ordi- 
nary orchard  soil,  does  not  usually  bear  until  it  is  in  most 
cases  seven  years  old,  and  often  more  from  the  bud  ;  while 
the  same  variety  grafted  or  budded  on  a  Paradise  apple 
stock  will  produce  in  two  or  three  years  at  most.  We  fre- 
quently see  one  branch  of  a  tree  that  has  been  accidentally 
placed  in  a  more  horizontal  position  than  the  other  parts, 
or  that  has  been  tightly  compressed  with  a  bandage  or 
something  of  that  sort,  bear  fruit  abundantly,  while  the 
erect,  unconstrained  portion  of  the  tree  gives  no  sign  of 
fruitfulness  whatever.  As  a  general  thing  we  find  that 
where  there  is  an  abundant  and  constant  supply  of  sap  or 
nutriment  furnished  to  the  roots  of  trees  and  conveyed  by 
them  through  the  unrestrained  channels  which  the  large 
cells  and  porous  character  of  young  wood  afford,  the 
whole  forces  of  the  tree  will  be  spent  in  the  production 
of  new  shoots;  but  that  as  trees  grow  older,  the  cells  be- 
come smaller,  and  the  tree  being  also  more  branched  the 
free  course  of  the  sap  is  obstructed,  and  becomes  in  con- 
sequence better  elaborated,  or  in  other  words  more  ma- 
ture^ and  commences  the  production  of  fruit.  Circum- 
stances similar  in  all  respects  to  these  and  answering  ex- 
actly the  same  purpose,  can  be  produced  by  art  at  an 
early  age  of  the  tree ;  and  this  is  one  of  the  leading  points 
in  the  culture  and  management  of  garden  trees,  where 


BUDS. 


41 


smallness  of  size  and  early  fruitfulness  are  so  highly  desir- 
able. This  will  come  under  consideration  in  another  place. 

Fruit-buds  in  most  cases  are  distinguishable  from  wood- 
buds  by  their  rounder  and  fuller  form;  the  scales  that 
cover  them  are  broader  and  less  numerous,  and  in  the 
spring  they  begin  to  swell  and  show  signs  of  opening  at 
an  earlier  period.  Like  the  wood-buds  they  are  single, 
double,  or  triple,  according  to  the  number  found  together. 
They  are  single  in  pears,  apples,  and  other  trees  of  that 
class.  Single,  double,  and  triple,  variously,  on  the  stone 
fruits,  gooseberries,  and  currants. 

Fruit-buds  are  also  simple  and  compound.  Simple,  as 
in  the  peach,  apricot,  and 
almond,  each  bud  of  which 
produces  but  one  flower. 
Compound,  as  in  the  plum, 
cherry,  apple,  pear,  etc., 
each  bud  of  which  pro- 
duces two  or  more  flowers. 
Those  of  the  plum  produce 
two  or  three,  hence  we 
find  plums  usually  borne 
in  pairs ;  those  of  the  cher- 
ry four  or  five  (fig.  21), 
and  of  the  apple  and  pear 
six  to  eight ;  and  hence 
we  often  find  these  fruits 
borne  in  clusters.  They 
are  also  lateral  or  terminal,  as  they  occupy  the  sides  or 
ends  of  the  branches  or  spurs  on  which  they  are  produced. 
The  ordinary  position  of  the  fruit-buds  of  different  classes 
of  trees  will  be  understood  from  the  preceding  descrip- 
tions of  fruit-branches. 


Fig.  21.— FLOWER  OF  THE  CHERRY, 

SHOWING  THE  PRODUCT  OF  A 

COMPOUND  BUD. 


42 


GENERAL    PRINCIPLES. 


SECTION  5. — LEAVES. 

1st.  Structure  and  Functions  of  Leaves. — The  leaves, 
of  all  hardy  fruit  trees  cultivated  in  our  climate,  are  de- 
ciduous— that  is,  they  decay  and  fall  in  the  autumn,  and 
are  succeeded  by  others  on  the  return  of  spring.  The 
offices  they  perform  during  the  growing  season  are  of 

the  highest  importance 
to  the^life  and  health  of 
the  tree,  and  deserve 
the  most  attentive  con- 
sideration. 

A  leaf  (fig.  22)  is  com- 
^  posed  of  two  principal 
parts,  the  leaf -stalk,  or 
petiole  (A),  which  con- 
nects it  with  the  tree  or 
branch,  on  which  it  is 
borne,  and  the  expanded 
part  (B,C,D,E),  called 
the  blade.  The  base  is 
the  end  ( C),  attached  to 
the  stalk,  and  the  apex, 
or  point  (D),  the  op- 
posite one.  The  length 
Fig.  22.-A  LEAP  OF  THE  PEAK.  «  the  distanoe^from  the 

A,  the  petiole,  or  leaf  stalk;  J5,  C.  D,  E,  the  base   to  the    POlnt  (  6  to 
blade ;  C',  the  base  ;  Z>,  the  point ;  Line  E,  B,  ./)),  and  the  Width,  a  line 

cutting    the    length    at 
right  angles,  and   extending  from  margin  to  margin  (E 


The  leaf-stalk  and  its  branches,  forming  the  nerves  or 
veins  of  the  blade,  are  composed  of  woody  vessels,  similar 
to  the  woody  parts  of  the  tree  or  branch  that  bears  it,  in- 
side of  which  is  a  pith,  similar  to  the  pith  of  the  tree  ;  the 
leaf  is  thus  connected  with  the  pith  and  wood  of  the 


LEAVES.  43 

shoot,  and  consequently  with  the  ascending  sap,  as  we 
may  readily  see,  by  making  a  vertical  cut  through  the  leaf 
stalk  and  shoot.  The  spaces  between  the  veins  of  the 
leaf  are  filled  up  with  a  cellular  substance  similar  to  tho 
pith,  called  parenchyma,  and  the  whole  is  covered  with 
a  thin  skin,  epidermis.  The  cellular  substance  of  the 
leaf  is  connected  with  the  inner  bark,  and  consequently 
with  the  descending  sap,  or  cambium,  that  forms  the  new 
layers  of  wood.  Both  surfaces  of  the  leaf  are  furnished 
with  small  pores,  through  which  exhalation  and  absorp- 
tion are  carried  on ;  these  are  most  abundant  on  the  lower 
surface. 

This  property  of  the  leaves  to  receive  and  give  out  air 
and  moisture  through  the  pores  on  their  surface,  has 
caused  them  to  be  likened  to  the  lungs  of  animals,  and 
this  comparison  is,  to  some  extent,  correct ;  for  we  know 
that,  without  leaves,  or  organs  performing  their  offices, 
trees  do  not  grow ;  and,  in  proportion  to  the  natural 
and  healthy  action  of  the  leaves,  do  we  find  the  vigor  and 
growth  of  the  tree. 

To  prove  that  leaves  have  the  power,  in  a  greater  or 
less  degree,  to  absorb  fluids,  we  have  but  to  apply  water 
to  the  drooping  foliage  of  a  plant  suffering  from  drouth, 
and  see  how  quickly  it  becomes  refreshed.  The  dews  of  a 
single  night,  we  know,  too,  will  revive  plants  that  the  heat 
and  drouth  of  the  previous  day  had  prostrated ;  and 
even  if  we  put  a  flagging  plant  in  a  damp  atmosphere,  it 
recovers.  The  leaves  of  a  bouquet  can  be  kept  fresh  for  a 
long  time  by  sprinkling  them  with  water. 

That  plants  exhale  moisture  and  gases,  cannot  be  doubt- 
ed. It  is  this  very  exhaling  process  that  causes  plants 
to  wilt  under  a  hot  sun,  or  in  a  dry  atmosphere.  Plants 
that  are  transplanted  with  their  foliage  on,  as  annuals  are 
in  the  spring  or  summer,  will  wilt,  and  even  die,  if  ex- 
posed to  the  air  and  sun  ;  but  if  transplanted  in  a  moist 
day,  or  covered,  so  that  evaporation  cannot  take  place, 


44  GENERAL   PRINCIPLES. 

the  plant  does  not  appear  to  feel  the  removal.  So  with 
cuttings  of  many  plants  thus  propagated ;  if  placed  in 
the  earth  with  a  certain  amount  of  foliage  on,  and  left 
uncovered,  they  will  immediately  die  ;  but  when  we  place 
a  bell-glass  or  a  hand-glass  over  them,  to  prevent  evapo- 
ration, they  remain  as  fresh  as  though  they  had  roots 
supplying  them  with  moisture  from  the  soil.  It  is  on  this 
account  that  transplanted  trees  so  often  die,  when  the 
branches  and  shoots  are  not  in  proportion  to  the  roots. 
In  transplanting,  a  portion  of  the  roots  is  destroyed, 
and  all  are  more  or  less  deranged,  so  that  their  functions 
are  feebly  performed  for  some  time  after  planting.  If  all 
the  branches  and  shoots  are  left  on,  they  will,  as  usual, 
produce  leaves ;  but  the  absorption  at  the  roots  being  so 
much  less  than  the  exhalation  of  the  leaves,  the  juices 
contained  in  the  tree,  previously  laid  up,  soon  become  ex- 
hausted, the  leaves  droop  and  wither,  and  the  whole  fabric 
perishes.  In  budding,  too,  if  the  whole  leaf  were  left  attach- 
ed to  the  bud,  the  evaporation  would  be  so  great  as  to  kill 
the  bud ;  hence  we  remove  all  but  a  portion  of  the  stalk. 
A  tree  can  neither  mature  its  wood  nor  its  fruit  without 
the  full  and  healthy  exercise  of  the  leaves.  If,  in  the 
growing  season,  a  tree  is  deprived  of  its  foliage  by  blight, 
insects,  etc.,  we  see  that  growth  is  entirely  suspended  for 
a  time,  until  new  leaves  are  developed ;  and  if  the  leaves 
be  removed  from  a  tree  bearing  fruit,  we  see  the  fruit 
shrivel  and  dry  up,  or  ripen  prematurely,  and  become 
worthless.  These  facts,  and  many  others  that  might  be 
cited,  show  the  intimate  connection  existing  between  the 
leaves  and  the  other  organs  of  trees,  and  the  influence 
they  have  on  their  growth  and  productiveness.  It  is  be- 
lieved that  the  opening  of  the  leaf  buds  in  spring  induces 
the  formation  of  new  roots ;  this  is  doubtful,  as  new  roots 
may  be  seen  forming  at  times  when  there  are  no  leaves 
on  the  tree,  and  apparently  no  growth  whatever  going  on 
in  the  buds.  But  it  is  well  known  that  they  will  soon  cease 


LEAVES.  45 

to  grow  if  leaves  do  not  make  their  appearance.  We 
observe  in  the  case  of  trees,  the  tops  of  which  have  been 
so  much  injured  by  drying  and  exposure,  that  scarcely  a 
sound  bud  is  left  to  grow  ;  in  this  case  the  roots,  although 
in  perfect  order,  remain  nearly  dormant  until  new  shoots 
and  leaves  are  produced,  and  in  proportion  as  the  leaves 
increase,  so  do  the  roots.  The  fact  of  the  absorption  and 
exhalation  by  leaves  of  certain  fluids,  has,  to  a  very  con- 
siderable extent,  established  the  theory  that  the  sap  of 
trees  is  taken  up  from  the  roots,  through  the  cells  or  sap 
vessels  of  the  wood  of  the  trunk  and  branches,  in  a  crude 
state,  and  passes  into  the  leaves ;  that  in  their  tissue,  spread 
out  under  the  sun's  rays,  it  receives  certain  modifications. 
Carbonic  acid,  which  lias  been  taken  in  a  state  of  solution 
from  the  soil,  and  by  the  leaves  from  the  atmosphere,  is 
decomposed,  its  oxygen  is  given  off  into  the  air,  carbon 
becomes  fixed,  and  thus  the  component  parts  of  the  tree, 
the  material  of  the  cells,  starch,  sugar,  gum,  etc.,  are 
formed.  After  passing  through  this  purifying  or  concen- 
trating process,  the  sap  acquires  a  more  solid  consistence, 
and  is  called  cambium ;  so  prepared,  it  returns  down- 
wards through  the  nerves  or  vessels  of  the  leaf  to  the  base 
of  the  leaf  stalk,  and  then  between  the  wood  and  bark  of 
the  stem,  forming  new  layers  on  its  passage.  Such  is,  at 
present,  the  most  popular  theory  of  the  functions  of  the 
leaves,  and  the  ascent,  assimilation,  and  descent  of  the 
sap.  Some  distinguished  writers  on  the  subject  reject 
this  theory,  alleging  that  "  there  is  no  such  thing  as  crude 
sap  ;  that  as  soon  as  it  enters  the  roots  it  becomes  assimi- 
lated, and  fit  for  the  production  of  new  cells,  and  that  it 
passes  upwards,  forming  new  wood  or  cells  by  a  chemical 
process."*  Observation,  however,  has  clearly  established 
that,  in  the  leaves  of  healthy  trees,  chemical  processes, 
depending  on  light  and  heat,  and  absolutely  essential  to 

*  Schleiden's  Principles  of  Botany. 


46 


GENERAL    PRINCIPLES. 


the  well-being  of  the  tree,  are  continually  going  on ;  for 
trees  shut  out  from  the  light  always  make  a  feeble  growth, 
and  have  a  blanched  and  sickly  hue,  compared  with  the 
same  species  in  the  free  air,  and  exposed  to  the  rays  of  the 
sun.  If  one  side  or  portion  of  a  tree  is  shaded  or  deprived 
of  its  full  share  of  light,  it  ceases  to  grow  in  its  natural 
way,  and  the  shoots  are  lean,  slender,  and  imperfect. 
2d.  Different  Forms  and  Characters  of  Leaves. — The 


Figs.  23  to  27. — FORMS  or  LEAVES. 
23,  oval ;  24,  oblong  ;  25,  lanceolate  ;  26,  ovate  ;  27,  obovate. 

different  sizes  and  forms  of  the  leaves  of  fruit  trees,  the 
divisions  of  their  edges,  the  absence  or  presence  of  glands, 
the  smoothness  or  roughness  of  their  surfaces,  are  all, 
more  or  less,  serviceable  in  describing  and  identifying 
varieties. 

The  terms  designating  forms    are  seldom  mathemati- 


LEAVES. 


47 


cally  correct,  but  merely  made  by  comparison ;  for  in- 
stance— 

Oval  (fig.  23),  when  about  twice  as  long  as  broad,  and 
nearly  of  equal  width  at  both  ends. 

Oblong  (fig.  24),  three  times,  or  more,  longer  than 
broad,  and  differing  but  little  in  width  in  any  part. 

Lance  Shaped,  or  lanceolate,  (fig.  25),  when  much  long- 
er than  broad,  and  tapering  gradually  to  a  sharp  point. 


Fig.  30.  Fig.  29.  Fig.  28 

Fig.  28,  a  leaf,  folded,  reflexed,  and  finely  serrated,  or  toothed ;  Fig.  29,  coarsely 
serrated ;  Fig.  30,  crenate  or  scolloped. 

Ovate  (fig.  26),  when  twice  as  long  as  broad,  tapering 
to  the  apex,  and  widest  towards  the  base. 

Obovate  (fig.  27),  the  reverse  of  ovate,  the  greatest  di- 
ameter being  in  the  upper  part. 

.     Round)  roundish,  approaching   a  circular  form,  like 
fig.  22. 

The  apex  or  point  is  often  a  distinguishing  feature ;  some 
leaves  terminate  suddenly  in  a  sharp  point,  others  are 
drawn  out  to  a  long,  sharp  point,  peaked,  whilst  others  are 
.nearly  round.  Leaves  differ  much,  too,  in  the  form  of  the 


48 


GENERAL   PRINCIPLES. 


some  are  rounded,  some  sharp,  and  some  heart- 
shaped. 

The  divisions  of  the  edges  are  serrated,  or  toothed,  when 
the  edges  are  cut  into  sharp  teeth,  directed  towards  the 
point  of  the  leaf ';  finely  (fig.  28)  or  coarsely  (fig.  29)  ser- 
rate, as  these  teeth  are  fine  or  coarse ;  doubly  serrate, 
when  the  principal  division,  or  tooth,  is  subdivided. 

Crenate,  or  Scolloped  (fig.  30),  when  the  divisions  are 
rounded,  instead  of  being  sharp,  like  teeth. 

Lobed,  when  deeply  cut,  and  the    penetrating  angle 

large,  as  in  the  cur- 
rant, gooseberry, 
grape,  etc.  (Fig.  31.) 

flat,  when  the 
surface  is  even  (fig. 
22). 

folded,  when  the 
edges  are  turned 
inward  (fig.  28). 

Jieflexed,  when 
the  apex,  or  point, 
turns  backwards, 
giving  the  leaf,  more 
or  less,  the  form  of 
a  ring  (fig.  28). 

Waved,  wrinkled. 

Fig.  31.—  LEAF  OF  THE  CURRANT.  LOBED. 

smooth,  rough,  etc., 
are  terms  well  enough  understood,  used  in  describing  leaves. 

The  leaf-stalk  lias  often  striking  peculiarities  in  certain 
varieties,  such  as  unusually  long,  stout,  short,  or  slender. 
There  are  sometimes  glands  on  the  leaf-stalk,  close  to  the 
base,  and,  in  certain  cases,  on  the  leaf  itself,  that  are 
chiefly  taken  notice  of  in  identifying  varieties  of  the  peach 
and  nectarine ;  these  differ  in  shape,  too,  being  globular 
(as  in  fig.  32),  reniform,  or  kidney-shaped  (fig.  33) ;  these 


FLOWERS. 


49 


\ 


little  glands  are  supposed  to  be,  and  no  doubt  are,  organs 

of  secretion. 

These  are  all  in- 
teresting items  in  the 
study  of  the  beautiful 
and  almost  endless  va- 
riety of  forms  which 
the  different  classes  of 
fruit  trees,  and  even 
different  varieties  of 
the  same  class,  exhibit 


Fig.  32.  Fig.  33. 

Fig.  32,  a  leaf  of  the  peach,   with  globular 

glands ;  Fig.  33,  the  same,  with  reuiform,  or 

kidney-shaped  glands. 

in  their  foliage. 


SECTION  6. — FLOWERS. 

1st.  Different  Parts  of  Flowers. — Flowers  are  the 
principal  reproductive  organs  of  trees,  and  consist  of  floral 
envelopes,  the  calyx  and  corolla  /  and  of  sexual  organs, 
stamens,  and  pistils.  Fig.  34,  which  represents  a  flower 


Fig.  34.  Fig.  35.      Fig.  36. 

Figs.  34  to  36. — DIFFERENT  PARTS  OF  A.  FLOWER. 

Fig.  34,  flower  of  the  peach  cut  open  longitudinally,  A,  the  calyx ;  .B,  the  petals  ; 

C,  stamens;   Z>,  pistil.    Fig.  35,  a  stamen,  A,  filament,  or  stalk:  -B,  anther. 

Fig.  36,  the  pistil,  A,  ovary ;  J?,  style  ;  C,  stigma  ;  the  ovary  is  cut  open  to  show 

the  ovule,  D. 

of  the  peach  cut  open  lengthwise,  shows   the  different 
parts  and  their  position. 

The  Calyx  (A,  fig.  34,)  is  the  outer  covering,  and  is 
usually  green,  like  the  leaves.     Its  parts  are  called  sepals. 


50 


GENERAL    PRINCIPLES. 


These  are  either  distinct  or  more  or  less  united  by  their 

edges.     The  united  portion  is  called  the  calyx-tube,  and 

the  free  points  the  segments. 

The  corolla  (B,  fig.  34,)  is  within  the  calyx,  and  is  the 

colored,  showy  part  of  the  flower ;  its  divisions  are  called 

petals. 

Stamens  (C,  fig.  34),  immediately  within  the  petals,  are 
the  male  organs  of  plants.  The 
delicate,  thread-like  filament  (A, 
fig.  35),  supports,  on  its  extremity, 
the  anther  (B,  fig.  35).  This 
contains  a  powdery  substance,  the 
pollen,  which  is  liberated  when 
the  anther  is  mature. 

The  pistil  (D,  fig.  34  and  fig. 
36,)  is  the  female  organ,  and  stands 
in  the  center  of  the  flower.  It 
consists  of  the  ovary,  at  its  base 
(A,  fig.  36),  which  contains  the 
ovules  or  rudiments  of  seeds. 
The  style  (B,  fig.  36)  is  the 
elongated  portion,  and  the  stigma 
(C,  fig.  36,)  is  the  portion  that 
receives  the  fertilizing  powder 
(pollen)  from  the  anthers.  The 
stigma  is  usually  rounded  like  a 
knob,  but  frequently  it  is  incon- 
spicuous. 

Flowers  may  be  deficient  in  any 

of  these  organs  except  the  anthers,  ovary,  and  stigma. 

These   are    indispensable  to  fructification,  and  must  be 

present  in  some  form  or  other,  or  the  flowers  will  be 

barren. 

2d.  Sexual  Distinctions. — The  fact  that  the  two  sexes, 

or  sexual  organs,  the  stamens,  and  pistils,  are,  in  certain 

species,  united  on  the  same  flower,  and  in  others  on  dif; 


Fig.  37. — FLOWERS   OF   THE 
FILBERT. 


FLOWERS.  51 

ferent  flowers,  and  even  on  different  trees,  has  created  the 
necessity  for  the  following  distinctions : 

Trees  or  plants  are  called  hermaphrodite  (as  in  fig.  34), 
when  both  stamens  and  pistils  are  present  on  the  same 
flower.  Nearly  all  our  cultivated  fruits  are  of  this  class. 
Monoecious,  when  the  male  and  female  flowers  are  borne 
on  the  same  tree,  as  in  the  filbert  flower  (fig.  37,  A,  the 
male,  and  B,  the  female  flowers). 

Dioecious,  when  the  male  flowers  are  on  one  plant,  and 
the  female  on  another.  A  familiar  in- 
stance, among  cultivated  plants,  is  the 
hop.  The  strawberry  is  not  truly  dire- 
cious,  but  in  many  varieties  we  find  the 
stamens  or  male  organs  so  incompletely 
developed  (fig.  38),  that  they  are  of  no 
service  in  fructifying  the  flowers.  Such 
varieties  are  termed  pistillate,  and  we 
OF  THE  STRAWBERRY.  piant  near  them  varieties  with  an  abund- 
ance of  these  organs,  strongly  developed,  as  in  fig.  39. 

3d.  Impregnation. — The  process  of  impregnation  is 
effected  in  this  way :  When  the  flowers  first  open,  the 
pollen  granules  are  contained  within  the 
anther.  In  a  short  time,  after  the  flow- 
er opens,  the  anther  bursts,  usually  by 
a  longitudinal  slit,  and  sometimes  by 
other  kinds  of  opening,  and  the  pollen 
is  let  fall  upon  the  stigma,  or  is  carried 
to  it  by  means  of  the  insects  that  fre-  _.  __ 

J  F12T.39.— HERMAPHRO- 

quent  the  flowers  in  search  of  pollen  DITE  FLOWER  OF  THE 
and  honey.  The  stigma  is  furnished 
with  a  glutinous,  or  sticky  secretion,  to  which  the  pollen 
adheres  ;  there  it  prolongs  a  minute  tube,  which  penetrates 
through  the  style  of  the  pistil  to  the  ovary,  where  it  reaches 
the  ovule,  and  impregnation  takes  place ;  new  cells  are 
formed  within  the  ovule,  which  results  in  the  production 
of  an  embryo  plant. 


52  GENERAL   PRINCIPLES. 

This  impregnation  is  sometimes,  from  certain  causes, 
only  partially  effected  in  the  cases  of  fruit  where  the  ovary, 
or  seed  vessel,  is  composed  of  several  cells,  as  in  the  apple, 
pear,  etc.,  and  hence  the  fruit  takes  an  imperfect,  one-sided 
development  from  the  beginning. 

The  difficulty  that  appears  to  arise  in  the  way  of  the 
impregnation  of  the  stigma  of  one  flower  by  the  pollen 
of  another,  distantly  situated,  either  on  the  same  plant,  as 
in  monoecious  trees,  or  on  different  plants,  as  in  the  dio3- 
cious  ones,  is  wonderfully  obviated  by  the  provision  that 
nature  has  made  for  its  transmission — not  only  by  the  at- 
mosphere, but  by  insects,  that  pass  from  one  flower  to  an- 
other, feeding  on  their  honeyed  secretions ;  the  pollen 
adheres  to  the  bodies  of  the  insects,  and  they  carry  it  from 
one  flower  to  another, 

All  natural  flowers,  of  the  same  species,  present  the 
same  number  of  petals  in  their  flowers ;  but  occasionally 
the  stamens  are  converted  into  petals,  and  thus,  what  are 
called  double  flowers,  are  produced.  Among  fruit  trees 
we  have  double-flowering  apples,  plums,  peaches,  and 
cherries.  These  seldom  produce  fruit ;  when  perfectly 
double,  never.  Many  of  our  double  flowers,  roses,  peo- 
nies, etc.,  have  been  obtained  by  this  transformation 
of  the  stamens  into  petals.  It  is  supposed  to  be  caused 
by  an  excessively  high  cultivation  given  to  the  plants 
that  produce  the  seeds  from  which  these  double  varieties 
spring. 

4.  Period  of  Blossoming. — In  treating  of  fruit-buds, 
allusion  has  been  made  to  the  causes  which,  according  to 
observation  and  experience,  promote  fruitfulness.  These 
are  chiefly  a  slow  or  moderate  growth,  and  a  brandling 
or  spreading,  constrained  form,  instead  of  an  upright  one. 
Some  species  of  trees  bloom  at  a  much  earlier  age  than 
others.  Thus  the  peach,  the  apricot,  and  the  cherry,  will 
bloom  in  nearly  one-fourth  less  time  from  the  bud,  all 
things  being  equal,  than  the  pear.  Some  species  bloom 


FLOWERS.  53 

at  an  earlier  period  of  the  season  than  others ;  the  apricot 
and  the  peach  bloom  very  early,  and  this  is  the  chief  rea- 
son why  the  crop  is  so  often  destroyed  in  localities  subject 
to  late  spring  frosts.  Among  fruits  even  of  the  same  spe- 
cies there  is  much  diiference  in  the  period  of  blooming — 
one  variety  of  apple  being  nearly  two  weeks  later  than 
another.  This,  in  some  sections,  is  an  important  quality, 
where  every  day  that  the  blossom  is  retarded  renders  the 
crop  surer,  from  its  being  more  likely  to  escape  frost. 
These  differences  are  caused  by  various  circumstances. 

1st.  The  Climate. — The  period  of  blossoming  of  the 
same  species  varies  much  in  different  localities.  Rochester 
is  at  least  a  week  earlier  than  Buffalo,  although  the  dis- 
tance is  less  that  one  hundred  miles  ;  and  it  is  nearly  two 
weeks  earlier  than  Toronto,  which  is  still  nearer.  The 
large  bodies  of  ice  in  the  lakes,  at  both  Buffalo  and  Toronto, 
have,  no  doubt,  a  considerable  effect  in  retarding  the 
blossoming  period. 

2d.  The  Season  and  Position. — In  the  same  locality,  one 
season  is  frequently  a  week  earlier  than  others,  and  trees 
on  the  south  side  of  a  wall  or  building  will  expand  their 
blossoms  several  days  before  the  same  variety  in  the  open 
ground,  only  a  few  rods  distant,  and  ten  days  to  a  fort- 
night before  those  on  a  north  wall. 

3d.  The  Soil. — On  warm,  and  light  soils,  the  roots  of 
trees  are  excited  into  activity  much  sooner  than  in  cold, 
damp,  and  heavy  soils,  and  the  blossoming  period  is  earlier 
in  consequence. 

The  Different  Characters  of  Flowers. — Flowers  vary 
in  size,  form,  color,  and  other  qualities,  even  in  the  same 
species.  In  the  peach,  these  distinctions  are  so  obvious, 
that  one  of  the  principal  classifications  of  pomologists  is 
founded  on  them.  Thus  there  are  varieties  with  large 
showy  flowers  (fig.  40),  as  the  Serrate  Early  York,  and 
small  (fig  41),  as  Large  Early  York,  Crawford^  Early, 
etc.  The  color  also  presents  variations,  some  being 


54  GENERAL    PRINCIPLES. 

deep,  others  pale  rose,  and  some  almost  white;  two 
or  three  varieties  of  the  peach  have  flowers  wholly 
white,  as  the  Snow  Peach,  for  instance.  In  all  the  other 
fruits,  as  in  apples,  pears,  plums,  cherries,  etc.,  the  flowers 

vary  but  slightly  in  form 
an<i  color,  and  the  differ- 
ences are  only  taken  note  of 
in  very  full  and  minute 
scientific  descriptions.  A 

i"  40  Fio-%1     ^ew  cases'  nowever>  are  well 

Fig.  40,  large  flower  of  the  peach  i  Fig.  marked,  as   the  Jargonelle 
41,  small  flower  of  the  peach.          pear,  the  flowers  of  which 
are  nearly  twice  as  large  as  those  of  most  other  pears. 

In  connection  with  the  flowers,  it  may  be  proper  to  ex- 
plain the  important  process  of 

Hybridization. — This  is  performed  by  fertilizing  the 
pistil  of  one  species  or  variety,  with  pollen  from  the 
stamens  of  another.  The  seeds  produced  by  the  flower  so 
impregnated  will  produce  a  cross,  or  hybrid,  between  the 
two  parents.  This  process  is  now  well  understood,  and  is 
carried  011  to  a  wonderful  extent,  especially  in  the  pro- 
duction of  new  flowers.  Comparatively  few  of  our  popu- 
lar fruits  have  been  produced  in  this  way.  A  few  good 
sorts  have  been  produced  by  the  late  Mr.  Knight,  a  distin- 
guished English  experimentalist,  who  effected  much  in  his 
time  towards  establishing  many  difficult  and  disputed 
points  in  vegetable  physiology.  Nearly  all  the  native 
fruits  of  this  country  are  .accidental  hybrids,  or  seedlings. 
A  vast  deal  may  be  done  to  improve,  in  this  way,  all  our 
fruits.  The  size,  hardiness,  and  productiveness  of  one 
variety  may  be  combined  with  the  delicacy  of  texture  and 
flavor  of  another,  and  endless  variations  and  improvements 
may  be  effected.  To  obtain  a  true  hybrid,  certain  precau- 
tions are  necessary.  The  two  subjects  selected  must  flower 
at  the  same  time.  The  stamens  must  be  carefully  removed 
from  the  one  intended  for  the  mother,  without  injury  to 


FLOWERS.  55 

the  stigma.  It  must  also  be  guarded  from  accidental  im- 
pregnation by  other  varieties,  and  the  pollen  from  the 
selected  male  be  applied  at  the  proper  moment — that  is, 
when  it  bursts  from  the  anther.  Hybridization  is  only 
possible  between  species  closely  related  ;  for,  although  there 
is  a  relation  between  the  apple  and  the  pear,  and  between 
the  gooseberry  and  the  currant,  they  will  not  hybridize ; 
but  different  varieties  of  the  apple  will  hybridize  with 
each  other,  and  so  with  all  the  rest. 

It  has  been  regarded  as  impracticable  to  hybridize  the 
native  with  the  foreign  grape,  but  several  parties  claim  to 
have  at  length  succeeded.  The  varieties  thus  produced 
will  be  found  in  the  descriptive  list  of  grapes. 

Several  parties  have,  from  time  to  time,  claimed  to  have 
succeeded  in  crossing  the  Monthly  Alpine  Strawberry  with 
some  of  the  large  fruited  sorts,  but  no  instance  of  this 
kind  has  yet  come  to  our  knowledge,  properly  authen- 
ticated. It  very  often  happens  that  the  process  of  arti- 
ficial impregnation  fails,  and  a  pure  seedling  of  one  of  the 
parents,  instead  of  a  hybrid,  is  the  result. 

The  prospects  now  are  that  hybridization,  better  under- 
stood than  formerly,  will  yield  important  results  in  the 
amelioration  of  fruits. 

[Since  writing  the  foregoing,  I  understand  that  Colonel 
Wilder  has  really  succeeded  in  producing  hybrids  between 
the  Alpine  and  Hautboy  species  and  the  large  strawber- 
ries, a  march  of  great  importance.] 

Blossoming  in  Alternate  Years. — Many  varieties  of 
apples,  pears,  etc.,  fruits  that  take  the  whole  season  to 
mature,  produce  flowers  in  alternate  years  only,  with  great 
regularity.  The  reason  is  supposed  to  be  this :  The  fruit, 
during  the  bearing  year,  attracts  a  large  quantity  of  the 
ascending  sap  of  the  tree  in  the  same  way  as  the  leaves 
do;  but  instead  of  returning  it  to  the  tree,  it  is  appropri- 
ated by  the  fruit  to  its  own  growth.  The  consequence  is, 
the  buds  that  would  have  blossomed  the  following  year,  if 


56  GENERAL   PRINCIPLES. 

they  had  received  their  due  share  of  nutriment,  fail  in 
attaining  the  proper  condition,  and  produce  only  rosettes 
of  leaves.  During  the  unfruitful  season,  immense  quan- 
tities of  fruit-buds  are  again  brought  forward,  and  the 
year  following,  the  tree  is  overloaded ;  so  it  proceeds  in 
regular  alternation. 

This  is  never  experienced  in  trees  regularly  pruned,  and 
may  be  remedied  by  thinning  out  the  crop  in  bearing 
years,  leaving  on  but  a  reasonable  amount,  that  will  not 
exhaust  the  tree.  The  bearing  years  have  been  complete- 
ly reversed  by  removing  the  blossom-buds,  or  fruits,  on 
the  bearing  year. 

SECTION   7. — THE  FRUIT. 

1st.  Character  of  the  Fruit. — As  soon  as  the  ovules  are 
impregnated,  the  ovary  begins  to  swell ;  the  petals,stamens, 
and  other  parts  of  the  flower  fall  off,  and  we  then  say  the 
fruit  is  "set"  As  a  fruit-bud  is  but  a  transformed  leaf-bud, 
a  fruit  occupies  the  same  relative  connection  with  the  tree 
as  a  branch ;  it  attracts  food  from  the  stem  and  the  atmos- 
phere in  the  same  manner,  and  performs  all  the  same  func- 
tions, except  that  it  does  not,  like  the  leaf,  return  anything 
to  the  tree,  but  appropriates  all  to  its  own  use ;  and  this 
is  the  reason,  as  we  have  before  remarked,  that  trees  hav- 
ing borne  a  heavy  crop  of  fruit  one  season,  are  less  fruitful 
the  next — this  is  the  case  only  with  fruits,  as  the  apple 
and  pear,  that  require  nearly  the  whole  season  to  mature 
them.  Cherries  and  other  fruits,  that  mature  in  a  shorter 
period,  and  that  draw  more  lightly  on  the  juices  of  the 
tree,  do  not  produce  this  exhaustion,  and  consequently 
bear  year  after  year  uninterruptedly. 

2d.  Classification. — In  some  fruits,  as  the  apple,  for  in- 
stance, the  fruit  appears  to  be  formed  below,  or  at  the  base 
of  the  calyx ;  structurally,  it  is  properly  regarded  as  an 
adhesion  of  the  greater  part  of  the  calyx  to  the  ovary ; 


THE    FRUIT.  57 

the  segments,  or  points  of  the  calyx  are  still  visible  in  the 
mature  fruit,  and  often  serve,  to  some  extent,  by  their 
size  and  other  peculiarities,  as  being  spread  out,  or  closed 
together  in  a  point,  to  identify  varieties.  In  other  species, 
as  the  plum  and  cherry,  the  fruit  is  formed  within  the 
calyx,  or  above  it.  Fruits  of  the  former  character,  form- 
ing below  the  calyx,  and  including  it  in  their  structure, 
are  classed  as  inferior — the  apple, pear,  quince,  gooseberry, 
and  currant,  are  all  inferior,  having  the  calyx  adhering. 

Those  formed  within  the  calyx,  and  free  from  it,  are 
called  superior  •  such  are  the  peach,  plum,  apricot,  nec- 
tarine, cherry,  raspberry,  strawberry,  and  grape. 

The  more  natural,  popular,  and  useful  classification  of 
fruits  is  that  by  which  they  are  divided  into 

Pomes,  or  Kernel  Fruits,  as  the  apple,  pear,  quince, 
medlar,  etc.  In  speaking  of  these,  we  call  the  enlarged 
accessory  parts  iheflesh,  and  the  dry,  bony,  seed  capsules, 
the  core. 

Drupes,  or  Stone  Fruits,  are  those  which  have  a  peri- 
carp of  two  kinds ;  the  outer  part  soft  and  pulpy,  \\\Q  flesh, 
and  the  inner  one  hard  and  bony,  the  pit,  or  stone,  which 
encloses  the  seed  in  a  shell,  like  a  nut ;  as  the  peach,  plum, 
apricot,  cherry,  etc. 

JJerries. — These  have  soft,  pulpy  flesh,  containing  seeds ; 
as  the  gooseberry,  currant,  and  grape. 

Compound  Berries,  like  the  raspberry,  and  blackberry, 
are  made  up  of  minute  separate  fruits,  each  like  a  stone 
fruit,  on  a  very  small  scale.  In  the  strawberry,  the  fruits 
proper  are  the  seed-like  ripened  ovaries,  which  are  more 
or  less  imbedded  in  a  large,  fleshy  receptacle,  which  is  an 
enlargement  of  the  end  of  the  flower-stalk. 

Nuts,  as  tine  filbert,  chestnut,  etc.,  are  fruits  with  a  hard, 
bony  covering,  which  are  often  contained  in  husks,  or 
cups,  that,  when  ripe,  open  and  let  the  fruit  drop. 

The  outlines,  or  forms  of  fruits,  and  their  colors,  exhibit 
great  variations,  even  in  the  same  species.  Every  portion 
3* 


58 


GENERAL    PRINCIPLES. 


Fig.  42.  —  VERTICAL     SECTION     OF     AN 
APPLE,  SHOWING  ITS  DIFFERENT  PARTS. 

A,  the  base ;   B.  the  eye  ;    (7,  the  flesh  ;   D, 
the  seed ;  E,  the  core  ;   A,  stem  ;  B,  calyx. 


of  the  fruit,  as  the  skin,  flesh  ( C,  fig.  42),  core  (E,  fig.  42), 
seeds  (D),  or  stones,  stems  (A),  and  in  kernel  fruits,  the 
calyx  (B),  has,  in  some  cases,  marked  peculiarities,  and  in 
others,  they  are  more  minute  and  scarcely  perceptible  ;  but 

yet,  in  a  strictly  scientific 
study  of  pomology,  they 
are  of  more  or  less  service. 
It  would  be  foreign  to  the 
purposes  of  this  work  to 
notice  these  points  in  de- 
tail ;  all  that  is  deemed 
necessary,  useful,  or  ap- 
propriate, is  to  point  out 
well-defined  and  practi- 
cal distinctions,  and  the 
terms    ordinarily    made 
use   of   in    popular   de- 
scriptions. 
3d.  Different  Parts  of  the  Fruit: 
The  Base  (A)  is  the  end  in  which  the  stem  is  inserted. 
The  Eye  (B)  is  the  opposite  end,  in  the  apple,  pear, 
etc.,  that  have  an  adhering  calyx. 

The  Neck,  in  pears,  the  contracted  part  near  the  stalk, 
as  seen  in  fig.  50. 

The  Point  is  the  end  opposite  the  stem  in  stone  fruits, 
berries,  etc.,  that  have  no  calyx,  and  consequently  no 
eye. 

The  Length  is  the  distance  from  stem  to  point,  or  eye, 
A  to  B,  fig.  42. 

The  Width,  a  line  cutting  the  fruit  across,  or  at  right 
angles  with  the  length. 

The  Basin,  the  depression  around  the  eye,  or  calyx,  in 
kernel  fruit,  B,  fig.  42. 

The  Cavity,  the  depression  around  the  stem. 
The  Suture,  in  stone  fruits,  the  furrow-like  depression 
running  from  the  base  to  the  point. 


THE   FRUIT.  59 

4th.  Different  properties  of  fruits : 

Besides  the  principal  divisions  which  have  been  alluded 
to,  fruits  are  considered  in  regard  to  their  size,  color,  form, 
texture,  flavor,  and  season  of  ripening. 

1st.  The  Size. — Besides  the  natural  difference  in  size 
that  exists  among  different  varieties  of  the  same  species, 
as,  for  instance,  between  the  Bartlett  and  Seckel  Pears,  or 
the  Full  Pippin  and  Lady  Apples,  there  are  great  dif- 
ferences between  the  same  varieties,  owing  chiefly  to  the 
following  circumstances:  Soil. — We  find  that,  in  new 
and  fresh  soils,  the  nutritive  properties  of  which  have  not 
been  impaired  by  cultivation,  as  in  the  virgin  soils  of  the 
West,  fruit  of  the  same  variety  attains  nearly  double  the 
size  that  it  does  in  older  parts  of  the  country,  where  the 
soil  has  long  been  under  cultivation ;  and  that  in  the  same 
orchard,  the  tree  growing  in  a  deep,  alluvial  soil,  will  give 
fruit  much  larger  than  the  one  on  a  hard,  gravelly  knoll. 
Culture. — This  has  an  important  influence  on  the  size  of 
fruits.  If  an  orchard  has  been  for  several  years  neglected, 
and  the  ground  about  the  trees  become  covered  with  grass 
and  weeds,  the  fruit  is  small ;  and  if  the  same  orchard  be 
plowed  up,  some  manure  turned  in  around  the  roots, 
and  the  ground  be  kept  loose  and  clean  by  tillage,  the 
fruit  will  double  in  size  in  a  single  season.  Seasons. — In 
a  dry  season,  when  the  supply  of  moisture  at  the  roots 
and  in  the  atmosphere  is  very  limited,  fruits  are  invari- 
ably smaller  than  in  seasons  of  an  opposite  character. 
Number  of  fruits  on  the  tree. — This  affects  the  size  of  the 
fruit  to  a  great  extent  in  all  seasons,  soils,  and  climates, 
and  under  all  grades  of  culture. 

It  is  perfectly  obvious,  that  the  greater  the  number  of 
fruits  a  tree  bears,  the  smaller  they  will  be ;  for,  as  they 
derive  their  sustenance  from  the  tree,  a  large  number 
cannot  be  so  well  supplied  as  a  smaller  number.  We 
cannot  go  into  an  orchard  where  there  are  many  varieties 
without  seeing  an  illustration  of  this.  Here  is  a  prolific 


60  GENERAL    PRINCIPLES. 

variety,  loaded  in  every  part ;  the  fruits  are  small,  cer- 
tainly not  over  medium  size.  There  is  a  moderate  bearer; 
its  fruits  are  thinly  and  evenly  distributed  over  the  tree ; 
its  fruits  are,  consequently,  large.  So  in  the  case  of  fruits 
that  have  been  thinned;  that  is,  a  certain  portion  removed 
while  young,  either  by  accidental  circumstances,  or  by 
design ;  every  specimen  is  twice  as  large,  as  if  the  whole 
crop  had  been  allowed  to  mature.  The  English  goose- 
berry growers,  in  preparing  their  prize  specimens,  leave 
but  a  few  on  each  bush — not  over  a  twentieth,  or  perhaps 
a  fiftieth  part  of  the  entire  crop.  So  in  peaches,  grapes, 
etc.,  grown  carefully  in  houses.  Where  the  size  and 
beauty  of  the  fruit,  and  the  health  and  vigor  of  the  trees 
are  kept  in  view,  a  large  portion  of  the  crops,  from  one- 
half  to  two-thirds,  is  thinned  out  before  maturity.  Age 
of  the  trees. — This  influences  the  size  of  fruits  to  a  great 
extent ;  we  see  fruit  so  large  on  young  trees,  as  to  be 
entirely  out  of  character.  As  trees  grow  older,  the  vigor 
decreases,  and  the  number  of  fruits  increase,  and  they  are 
consequently  diminished  in  size.  The  kind  of  stock  has  a 
tendency  to  modify  the  size ;  thus  we  find  many  pears 
much  larger  on  the  quince  stock  than  on  the  pear,  and 
many  apples  larger  on  the  Paradise  than  on  the  common 
apple  stock.  The  reason  of  this  is,  no  doubt,  that  on  the 
quince  and  Paradise  the  juices  of  the  tree  are  better  pre- 
pared, richer,  and  better  suited  to  the  growth  of  the  fruit. 
In  the  common  pear  and  apple  stocks,  the  sap  is  taken  up 
in  greater  quantities,  is  watery,  and  better  adapted  to 
form  wood  than  fruit. 

CLASSIFICATION    OP   SIZE. 

The  terms  qualifying  the  sizes  of  fruits  are  always  given 
comparatively,  in  regard  to  the  two  extremes,  the  largest 
and  the  smallest  of  the  species ;  for  instance — in  apples, 
we  may  consider  the  Gloria  Mundi  and  Twenty  Ounce  as 
extremely  large,  and  the  Lady  Apple  as  extremely  small. 


THE    FRUIT.  61 

The  terms  used,  therefore,  are  such  as  to  represent  the 
various  grades  between  the  two  extremes.  These  are 

Very  large,  as  the  G-loria  Mundi  Apple,  Duchesse 
(TAngouleme  Pear,  Crawford's  Early  Peach,  Yellow  Egg 
Plum,  and  Napoleon  Bigarreau  Cherry. 

Large,  as  the  Baldwin  Apple,  Bartlett  Pear,  Red  Cheek 
Melocoton  Peach,  "Washington  Plum,  and  Black  Eagle 
Cherry. 

Medium,  as  the  Hambo  Apple,  White  Doyenne  Pear, 
Imperial  Gage  Plum,  and  the  American  Amber  Cherry. 

Small,  as  the  Early  Strawberry  Apple,  Dearborn's  Seed- 
ling Pear,  Green  Gage  Plum,  and  Baumarfs  May  Cherry. 

Very  Small,  as  the  Amire  Johannet  Pear,  Lady  Apple, 
Winter  Damson  Plum,  and  the  Indulle  (Early  May) 
Cherry. 

The  distance  between  some  of  these  grades,  as  between 
medium  and  large,  etc.,  is  so  short,  that  they  are  frequent- 
ly confounded ;  still,  they  give  a  notion  of  comparative 
size  that  answers  all  practical  purposes.  It  would,  per- 
haps, have  been  more  accurate,  and,  at  the  same  time, 
more  satisfactory  to  persons  entirely  unacquainted  with 
fruits,  to  have  given  the  comparative  measurement  of 
these  different  grades  in  inches  and  parts  ;  but  the  varie- 
ties quoted  as  examples  are  common,  and  very  generally 
known. 

2d.  Form. — It  is  exceedingly  difficult,  even  impossible, 
to  find  any  single  term  that  will  give  a  mathematically 
accurate  notion  of  the  forms  of  fruits ;  for,  although  we 
call  an  apple  round  or  conical,  it  may  not  be,  strictly 
speaking,  either ;  very  likely  it  partakes,  to  some  extent, 
of  both  forms.  But  that  is  no  reason  why  we  should  desig- 
nate it  conical  round  :  we  simply  call  it  round,  or  round- 
ish, if  nearer  round  than  any  other  form ;  and  if  it  in- 
clines slightly  to  the  conical,  we  cannot  in  any  other  way 
so  well  convey  the  knowledge  of  that  fact  as  by  simply 
saying  so. 


GENERAL    PRINCIPLES. 


In  the  apple,  the  round  form  prevails,  and  in  the  pear, 
the  pyramidal;  hence,  it  is  necessary  to  apply  a  different 
class  of  descriptive  terms  to  each. 


FORMS    OF   APPLES. 

Round  or  Roundish  (fig.  43). — When  the  outline  is 
round,  or  nearly  so,  the  length  being  about  equal  to  the 
breadth. 

Flat  (fig.  46). — When  the  ends  are  compressed,  and 
the  width  considerably  greater  than  the  length. 


45 


Figs.  43  to  48. — FORMS  OF  APPLES. 
43,  round ;  44,  conical ;  45,  ovate ;  46,  flat;  47,  oblong ;  48,  ribbed. 

Conical  (fig.  44). — In  the  form  of  a  cone,  tapering 
from  the  base  to  the  eye. 

Ovate,  or  egg-shaped  (fig.  45). 

Oblong  (fig.  47). — When  the  length  is  considerably 
greater  than  the  width,  and  the  width  about  equal  at  both 
ends,  not  tapering  as  in  the  conical. 

In  addition  to  these  forms  and  their  various  modifica- 
tions, some  varieties  are 

Angular,  having  projecting  angles  on  the  sides. 

One-sided,  having  one  side  larger  than  the  other. 


THE    FRUIT. 


63 


ltibbed(48),  when  the  surface  presents  a  series  of  ridges 
and  furrows,  running  from  eye  to  stem. 


FORMS    OF    PEARS. 

It  has  been  remarked  that  the  pyramidal  form  prevails 
in  pears ;  but  they  taper  from  the  eye  to  the  stem,  which 
is  just  the  reverse  of  the  tapering  form  in  apples.  Their 
forms  are  designated  thus — 

Pyriform. — When  tapering  from  the  eye  to  the  base, 
and  the  sides  more  or  less  hollowed  (concave)  (fig.  49). 


Figs.  49  to  55. — FORMS  OF  PEAKS. 

49,  pyriform  ;  50,  long  pyriform ;  51,  obtuse  pyriform  ;  52,  obovate  ;  53,  turbinate ; 
54,  oval ;  55,  round. 

Long  Pyriform. — When  long  and  narrow,  and  tapering 
to  a  point  at  the  stem  (fig.  50). 

Obtuse  Pyriform. — When  the  small  end  is  somewhat 
flattened  (fig.  51). 

Obovate,  or  egg-shaped. — Nearly  in  form  of  an  egg,  the 
small  end  being  nearest  the  stem  (fig.  52). 

Turbinate,  or  top-shaped. — The  sides  somewhat  round- 
ed, and  tapering  to  a  point  at  the  stem  (fig.  53). 

Oval. — Largest  in  the  middle,  tapering  more  or  less  to 
each  end  (fig.  54). 


64  GENERAL    PRINCIPLES. 

Round. — When  the  outline  is  nearly  round  (fig.  55). 

FORMS    OF   PEACHES. 

There  is  too  much  uniformity  in  the  forms  of  peaches 
to  render  the  adoption  of  any  set  of  terms  descriptive  of 
them  very  serviceable.  They  are  mostly  round,  occasion- 
ally approaching  to  oblong  and  oval ;  the  sides  are  fre- 
quently compressed,  flattened,  exhibiting  a  suture  or  fur- 
row, running  from  the  point  to  the  base ;  the  width, 
depth,  etc.,  of  this  suture  are,  in  many  cases,  peculiar,  or 
at  least  worthy  of  note. 

FORMS    OF    PLUMS. 

Plums  are  round,  oval,  or  oblong,  as  the  peach,  and 
marked,  in  some  cases,  by  a  similar  flattening  of  the  sides, 
and  by  the  suture. 

FORMS    OF    CHERRIES. 

Cherries  are  round  or  heart-shaped ;  obtuse  heart- 
shaped,  when  too  round  to  be  fully  heart-shaped ;  and 
pointed,  when  the  point  is  more  than  ordinarily  sharp,  or 
peaked.  The  suture  is  also  taken  note  of,  as  in  plums 
and  peaches. 

Gooseberries  and  Grapes  are  always  round  or  oval. 
Currants,  always  round.  Strawberries,  round,  conical  or 
oval,  sometimes  with  a  neck ;  that  is,  the  base  is  drawn 
out  at  the  stem  in  the  form  of  a  narrow  neck.  Raspber- 
ries are  conical,  roundish  or  long. 

3d.  Color. — The  color  of  fruits  depends  much  on  their 
exposure  to  the  sun's  rays.  We  find  that  in  orchard  trees, 
where  the  heads  are  dense,  and  a  large  portion  of  the  fruit 
shaded  and  shut  out  from  the  sun,  there  is  a  great  differ- 
ence in  the  color ;  indeed,  so  great,  frequently,  as  to  make 
their  identity,  from  appearance,  quite  doubtful.  Varieties 


THE    FRUIT.  65 

that  are  naturally — when  properly  exposed  to  the  sun — 
of  a  bright  red  or  a  glowing  crimson,  remain  green  in  the 
shade.  The  climate,  too,  seems  to  have  considerable  ef- 
fect on  the  color.  As  a  general  thing,  we  observe  that 
northern  apples  are  clearer  and  brighter  colored  than 
those  of  the  South. 

Dry  soils  and  elevated  situations  produce  more  highly 
colored  fruit  than  damp  and  low  valleys.  The  terms 
used  in  describing  colors  are  all  simple,  and  well  under- 
stood. 

4th.  Flavor,  in  table  fruits,  is  one  of  the  most  impor- 
tant of  qualities ;  for,  however  large  or  fair  a  fruit  may 
be,  if  insipid  or  astringent  to  an  unpleasant  degree,  or  if 
it  possesses  some  other  disagreeable  quality,  it  is  unfit  for 
the  table.  There  are  various  kinds  of  flavor  even  among 
varieties  of  the  same  species :  in  pears,  particularly,  it  is 
almost  endless;  the  shades  and  degrees  of  sweet  and  acid, 
and  the  various  perfumes  that  mingle  with  these,  are 
almost  infinite. 

The  same  circumstances  mentioned  as  favorable  to  high 
and  brilliant  coloring,  are  also  favorable  to  the  production 
of  fine  flavor.  Light,  heat,  a  dry  soil,  and  moderate 
growth,  seem  to  be  all  essential  to  fine  flavor.  On  trees 
somewhat  advanced  in  age,  fruits  are  apt  to  be  higher 
flavored  than  on  young  trees  that  have  just  commenced 
bearing,  and  in  a  dry  than  a  wet  season.  The  philosophy 
of  all  this  is,  that  in  a  damp  soil  or  season,  or  in  a  shaded 
situation,  when  trees  are  young,  and  growing  rapidly,  the 
fruit  receives  more  sap  from  the  tree  than  can  be  properly 
elaborated  by  the  action  of  the  sun  and  atmosphere  on  its 
surface,  and,  consequently,  the  sugary  principle  is  pro- 
duced in  small  quantities — the  juice  is  watery,  sour,  or 
insipid,  as  the  case  may  be. 

The  various  terms  by  which  flavor  is  designated,  such 
as  sweet,  acid,  subacid,  sprightly,  perfumed,  musky  ^  spicy , 
etc.,  are  all  well  understood. 


66 


GENERAL    PRINCIPLES. 


SECTION  8. — THE  SEED. 

The  perfect  seed  contains  the  rudiment  of  a  plant  of 
the  same  nature  as  that  which  produced  it.  This  rudi- 
ment of  the  new  plant  is  called  the  embryo,  and  is  found 
in  a  more  or  less  developed  state  in  all  seeds.  In  fig.  56 
is  given  an  enlarged  view  of  an  apple  seed  cut  longitu- 
dinally to  show  the  embryo  in  place,  and  fig.  57  shows 
the  embryo  of  the  same  after  germination,  the  lettering 
referring  to  the  same  parts  in  both  illustrations.  It  consists 
of  three  parts — the  cotyledons  (a, 
figs.  56  and  57),  which  are  the  first 
pair  of  leaves,  usually  rudimentary ; 
these  are  the  parts  that  first  make 
their  appearance,  and  are  known  as 
seed  leaves.  The  bases  of  these 
cotyledons  are  united  to  the  radicle, 
(c),  and  between  them  is  a  bud  (&), 
called  the  plumule.  The  radicle 
and  plumule  are  very  inconspicuous 
in  the  seed  (fig.  56),  but  as  soon  as 
the  seed  is  excited  into  germina- 
tion by  the  heat  and  moisture  of 
the  earth,  the  radicle  elongates,  one 
end  penetrates  the  soil,  and  roots 
soon  start  from  it,  and  the  upper 
portion  ascends  in  an  opposite  direction,  bearing  the 
plumule,  and,  in  the  apple,  etc.,  the  cotyledons  to  the  sur- 
face, where  they  find  the  necessary  air  and  light.  The 
plumule,  which  is  really  a  terminal  bud,  is  soon  lifted  up 
by  the  development  of  a  section  of  stem,  unfolds  its  leaves, 
and  exposing  another  bud,  which  in  its  turn  repeats  the 
same  process,  and  thus  the  growth  of  the  tree  goes  for- 
ward. 

It  has  been  remarked  that  a  seed  contains  the  rudiments 
of  a  plant  similar  to  that  on  which  it  is  produced ;  but 


56 


57 


Fig.  56,  apple  seed  divided: 

Fig.  57,  germinating  seed. 

a,  cotyledons ;  d>,  plumule  ; 

c,  radicle. 


THE   SEED.  67 

this  needs  some  explanation.  In  distinct  species,  this  will 
be  true ;  but  the  seeds  of  varieties  that  have  been  pro- 
duced by  culture  and  hybridizing,  seldom,  or  never,  repro- 
duce exactly  their  like,  hence  the  necessity  for  the  various 
artificial  methods  of  multiplication,  such  as  grafting,  bud- 
ding, layering,  etc.  It  is  to  these  operations  that  we  are 
indebted  for  the  preservation  of  varieties  that  were  origi- 
nated, hundreds  of  years  ago. 

Germination. — Heat  arid  moisture,  air,  and  the  exclu- 
sion of  light,  are  all  necessary  to  the  healthy  and  perfect 
germination  of  seeds.  It  may  be  well  to  consider,  briefly, 
the  part  which  each  of  these  has  to  perform. 

1st.  Moisture. — If  seeds  are  sown  in  a  time  when 
the  ground  is  parched,  they  will  show  no  signs  of  germi- 
nation until  it  is,  in  some  way  or  other,  moistened.  The 
quantity  of  moisture  necessary  to  a  seed  depends  on  the 
nature  of  its  covering,  and  its  size.  A  small  seed,  with 
a  thin  covering,  will  vegetate  much  sooner,  and  with  less 
moisture,  than  a  large  seed,  with  a  hard,  bony  covering. 
The  moisture  must,  in  the  firs  j  place,  soften  the  covering, 
penetrate  to  the  mealy  part  of  the  seed,  and  prepare  it 
for  the  chemical  changes  necessary  to  convert  it  into  food 
for  the  embryo  plant.  If  apple  or  pear  seeds  be  kept  in 
a  dry,  warm  room  all  winter,  they  will  not  be  likely  to 
vegetate  the  succeeding  spring,  but  if  sown,  will  probably 
lie  in  the  ground  all  summer,  and  possibly  germinate  the 
spring  following.  If  cherry  seeds  are  kept  dry  for  any 
length  of  time,  say  two  or  three  months,  they  will  not 
germinate  the  season  following;  and  peaches  and  plums 
have  actually  to  be  in  the  ground  all  winter  to  insure 
their  germination  the  succeeding  spring.  Seeds  will  ger- 
minate much  quicker  when  freshly  gathered  than  after 
they  have  dried,  because  heat,  moisture,  and  air  have 
easier  access  to  them,  and  act  more  quickly  on  them. 
These  facts,  of  which  all  are  well  aware,  show  the  necessi- 
ty for  moisture,  and  the  nature  of  its  influence. 


68  GENERAL   PRINCIPLES. 

2d.  Seat  is  the  next  most  important  element.  Seeds 
do  not  grow  in  winter.  We  sow  our  apple,  pear,  peach, 
and  plum  seeds  in  November,  but  they  show  no  signs  of 
germination  until  a  change  of  season.  When  the  warmth 
of  spring  penetrates  the  soil,  it  reaches  the  seed,  and,  in 
connection  with  the  moisture  already  imbibed,  induces 
chemical  changes,  which  excite  the  vital  energies  of  the 
germ,  decompose  the  mealy  part  of  the  seed,  and  prepare 
it  for  the  temporary  nutrition  of  the  young  plant. 

3d.  Air. — Although  seeds  may  have  heat  and  moisture 
in  the  requisite  proportions,  still  it  has  been  proved,  by 
many  experiments,  that  without  air,  germination  cannot 
take  place. 

Practical  cultivators  are  aware  that  seeds  planted  too 
deeply  do  not  grow ;  many  kinds  .will  lie  buried  in  the 
ground  for  years  without  growing,  and  when  turned  up 
near  the  surface,  will  germinate  immediately.  It  is  the 
oxygen  of  the  air  that  constitutes  its  importance ;  it  pro- 
duces, by  forming  new  combinations  with  the  constituents 
of  the  seed,  that  chemical  process  which  converts  the 
starch  into  gum  and  sugar,  as  we  observe  in  ordinary 
cases  of  fermentation. 

4th.  Exclusion  of  Light. — The  manner  in  which  self- 
sown  seeds  in  the  forest  are  covered  with  fallen  and  de- 
caying foliage,  plainly  indicates  that  nature  never  intend- 
ed the  light  to  strike  germinating  seeds.  A  seed  entirely 
exposed  would  be  at  one  time  saturated  with  moisture, 
and  at  another  parched  with  drouth  ;  chemical  changes 
would  be  alternately  promoted  and  checked,  until  the 
vital  principle  would  be  destroyed,  or  so  weakened  as  to 
produce  a  feeble  and  worthless  plant.  The  depth  of  the 
covering  should  always  be  regulated  by  the  size  of  the 
seeds.  Small  and  delicate  seeds  may  be  sown  almost  on 
the  surface,  whilst  large  ones  may  be  imbedded  to  the 
depth  of  four  or  five  inches.  The  small  seed  requires  lit- 
tle moisture,  and  has  but  a  feeble  force  to  penetrate  an 


SOILS.  69 

earthy  covering ;  but  the  large  requires  much  moisture, 
and  has  force  enough  to  push  its  way  up. 


CHAPTER    II. 

SOILS. 
SECTION  1. — DIFFERENT  KINDS  OF  SOIL. 

Soils  are  usually  designated  by  terms  expressive  of  the 
predominant  material  in  their  composition  ;  thus  we  hear 
of  sandy,  loamy,  gravelly,  clayey,  calcareous,  or  limy,  and 
alluvial  soils. 

A  sandy  soil  is  that  in  which  sand  is  the  principal  in- 
gredient. Such  soil  is  usually  quite  defective.  It  is  so 
porous,  that  it  parts  almost  instantaneously  with  moisture, 
and  plants  in  it  suffer  from  drouth.  All  the  soluble 
parts  of  manures  are  also  quickly  washed  out  of  it,  and 
hence  it  requires  continual  additions  to  produce  even  a 
scanty  growth.  The  great  point  in  improving  it  is  to 
render  it  more  retentive  by  the  addition  of  clay,  ashes, 
etc. 

A  clayey  soil  is  that  in  which  clay  predominates.  It 
may  be  considered  the  opposite  of  sandy,  inasmuch  as  its 
defects  are,  that  it  retains  moisture  too  long,  is  too  adhe- 
sive ;  in  dry  weather  it  becomes  as  hard  as  a  burnt  brick, 
impervious  to  dews  or  light  showers,  and  when  thoroughly 
saturated  with  wet,  it  is  tough,  and  requires  a  long  time 
to  dry.  No  fruit  tree  succeeds  well  in  such  a  soil ;  but  it 
is  capable  of  being  improved  and  fitted  for  many  species, 
and  especially  the  plum  and  the  pear.  The  obvious  way 
to  improve  it  is,  by  incorporating  with  it  sand,  muck,  or 
leaf  mould. 


70  GENERAL    PRINCIPLES. 

A  gravelly  soil  is  one  made  up  in  greater  part  of  small 
stones,  pebbles,  decomposed  rock,  etc. ;  such  soils,  as  a 
general  thing,  are  unfit  for  fruit  trees,  unless  great  labor 
is  incurred  in  trenching,  deepening,  and  mixing  with 
clay,  muck,  etc.,  of  opposite  characters. 

A  loamy  soil  is  one  we  hear  a  great  deal  about,  and 
may  be  understood  in  various  ways.  It  may  be  considered 
a  mixture  of  equal  parts  of  sandy,  clayey,  and  vegetable 
soil.  It  is  neither  so  light  as  the  sandy,  on  the  one  hand, 
nor  so  tenacious  as  clay  on  the  other ;  and,  as  a  general 
thing,  contains  such  elements,  and  is  of  such  a  texture,  as 
to  render  it  eligible  for  all  ordinary  purposes  of  cultiva- 
tion, and  especially  so  for  fruit  trees.  Loamy  soils  are 
spoken  of  as  sandy  loams  when  sand  forms  a  large  ingre- 
dient— say  one-half  of  their  composition ;  gravelly,  when 
pretty  largely  mixed  with  small  stones  ;  calcareous,  when 
lime  is  found  in  them. 

Calcareous  soils  have  a  large  amount  of  lime  mixed 
with  the  other  ingredients  of  which  they  are  composed. 
All  the  lands  in  limestone  districts  are  of  this  character, 
and,  as  a  general  thing,  are  well  adapted  to  fruit  culture. 

Peaty  soil  consists  chiefly  of  vegetable  mould  from  de- 
cayed marsh  plants,  in  low,  wet  places.  It  is  unfit,  in 
itself,  for  fruit  trees,  but  is  valuable  for  improving  both 
light  and  heavy  soils. 

Alluvial  soils  nre  made  up  of  decomposed  vegetable 
substances,  the  sediment  of  rivers,  and  materials  washed 
down  from  neighboring  hills  ;  the  valleys  of  all  our  rivers 
and  streams  are  composed  of  this,  and  it  is  the  richest 
of  all  soils.  Fruit  trees  in  such  soils  make  a  rank, 
vigorous  growth,  but  they  are  not  so  hardy  nor  so  fruit- 
ful, nor  is  the  fruit  so  high  flavored  as  on  soils  with  more 
sand,  clay,  or  gravel,  and  less  vegetable  mould. 

In  treating  of  the  different  classes  of  fruits,  we  shall 
refer  to  the  particular  soils  best  adapted  to  them. 


SOILS.  71 

SECTION   2. — DIFFERENT  MODES  OF  IMPROVING  SOILS. 

In  regard  to  depth,  soils  vary  materially,  some  being 
not  over  eight  or  ten  inches  in  depth  of  surface,  others  a 
foot,  while  in  deep  alluvial  valleys  they  are  often  two  feet. 
For  orchard  and  garden  purposes,  a  deep  soil  is  quite 
essential,  to  enable  the  roots  to  penetrate  freely  in  search 
of  food,  and  to  enable  them  to  withstand  the  demands  of 
protracted  drouths.  Few  soils  in  their  ordinary  condi- 
tion of  farm  culture  are,  in  this  respect,  suitable  for  trees. 
Even  where  naturally  deep  and  loamy,  if  the  upper  part 
only  (say  to  the  depth  of  six  inches,  which  is  as  deep  as 
most  people  plow)  be  in  a  friable  condition,  it  cannot  be 
considered  as  in  a  proper  state  for  the  reception  of  trees, 
for  their  roots  cannot  be  confined  to  six  inches  of  the  sur- 
face. Some  means  of  loosening  and  deepening  must  be 
resorted  to,  and  what  are  they  ? 

1.    SUBSOIL    PLOWING. 

This  is  the  cheapest  and  best  method,  where  a  large 
quantity  of  ground  is  to  be  prepared  for  extensive  plant- 
ing. The  common  plow  goes  first,  and  takes  as  deep  a 
furrow  as  practicable.  The  subsoiler  follows  in  the  same 
furrow,  and  loosens,  without  turning  up,  the  lower  part 
of  the  surface,  and  a  part  of  the  subsoil.  Except  in  cases 
where  the  subsoil  is  a  very  stiff  clay,  or  a  hard  gravel, 
and  near  the  surface,  the  two  plows  can  go  to  the  depth 
of  eighteen  or  twenty  inches.  This  is  our  mode  of  pre- 
paring nursery  grounds.  If  a  single  plowing  in  this  way 
does  not  accomplish  the  desired  end,  a  second  may  be 
given,  going  down  still  deeper. 

We  had  a  piece  of  soil,  the  surface  of  which  was  about 
a  foot  deep,  of  black  vegetable  mould,  with  a  slight  ad- 
mixture of  sand,  resting  on  a  stiff  clay  subsoil,  which 
prevented  the  water  from  passing  off.  In  this  condition 


72  GENERAL    PRINCIPLES. 

we  found  it  entirely  unfit  for  trees ;  we  subsoil  plowed  it 
six  or  eight  inches  deep,  turning  up  the  clay  subsoil,  and 
mixing  it  with  the  surface  ;  we  also  drained  it,  and  spread 
over  the  surface  the  clay  that  came  out  of  the  drains,  and 
in  this  condition  we  find  it  producing  the  finest  trees, 
especially  apples,  pears,  and  plums.  The  soil  is  more 
substantial,  and  the  surface  water  passes  off  freely. 

2.    TRENCHING. 

Iii  gardens,  too  limited  in  extent  to  admit  of  plows,  or 
where  it  is  desired  to  make  the  soil  thoroughly  and  per- 
manently deep,  trenching  is  the  means. 

The  spade  is  the  implement  used  in  this  operation.  A 
trench,  two  feet  wide,  is  opened  on  one  side  of  the  ground, 
and  the  earth  taken  out  of  it  is  carried  to  the  opposite  side. 
Another  trench  is  opened,  the  surface  spadeful  being 
thrown  in  the  bottom  of  the  first,  and  the  next  lower  on  the 
top  of  that,  and  so  on  until  it  is  opened  the  required  depth, 
which,  for  a  good  fruit  garden,  should  be  about  two  feet. 
If  the  subsoil  be  poor  and  gravelly,  it  is  better  to  loosen 
it  up  thoroughly  with  a  pick,  and  let  it  remain,  than  to 
throw  it  out  on  the  surface.  When  the  whole  plot  is 
trenched  over  in  this  way,  the  earth  taken  out  of  the  first 
trench  will  fill  up  the  last  one,  and  the  work  is  done.  If 
the  soil  be  poor,  a  layer  of  well-decomposed  manure  may 
be  added  alternately  with  the  layers  of  earth ;  and  if  the 
soil  be  too  light  and  sandy,  clay,  ashes,  etc.,  can  be  add- 
ed ;  and  if  too  heavy,  sand,  lime,  muck,  peat,  scrapings 
of  dead  leaves  from  the  woods,  or  any  other  material  cal- 
culated to  render  it  porous  and  friable.  If  a  garden  is 
thus  trenched  in  the  fall  or  winter,  and  then  turned  over 
once  in  the  spring,  to  effect  a  thorough  mixture  of  all  the 
materials,  it  will  be  in  suitable  order  for  planting.  This 
is  something  like  the  way  to  prepare  soil  for  a  garden ; 
and  let  no  one  say  it  is  too  troublesome  or  too  expensive, 


SOILS.  To 

for,  in  two  years,  the  extra  pleasure  and  profit  it  will  yield 
will  pay  for  all.  Nothing  is  so  expensive  nor  so  trouble- 
some as  an  ill-prepared  soil. 

3.    DRAINING. 

There  is  a  false  notion  very  prevalent  among  people, 
that  where  water  does  not  lodge  on  the  surface,  of  a  soil, 
it  is  "  dry  enough."  However  this  may  be  in  regard  to 
meadows  or  annual  crops,  it  is  quite  erroneous  when  ap- 
plied to  orchards  or  fruit  gardens.  Stagnant  moisture, 
either  in  the  surface  or  subsoil,  is  highly  injurious — ruin- 
ous to  fruit  trees.  In  such  situations,  we  invariably  find 
them  unthrifty  and  unfruitful,  the  bark  mossy,  and  the 
fruit  imperfect  and  insipid.  All  the  soils,  then,  not  per- 
fectly free  from  stagnant  moisture,  both  above  and  below, 
should  be  drained.  In  draining,  it  is,  of  course,  neces- 
sary to  have  a  fall  or  outlet,  for  the  water.  Having  se- 
lected this,  the  next  point  is  to  open  the  drains.  We 
usually  make  them  three  feet  deep,  and  wide  enough  to 
give  sufficient  room  to  work — say  three  feet  wide  at  top 
narrowing  gradually  to  six  inches  at  the  bottom,  which 
should  be  even,  and  sloping  enough  to  the  outlet  of  the 
water  to  enable  it  to  run.  Draining  plows  are  now  used 
advantageously,  lessening  very  much  the  expense  of 
opening  the  drains.  The  plow  is  constructed  something 
like  the  subsoiler,  and  the  horses  are  attached  with  a  long 
evener,  so  that  one  can  walk  on  each  side  of  the  drain. 

A  sufficient  number  of  men  follow  the  plow  to  throw 
out  the  earth  with  shovels  as  fast  as  it  is  loosened. 

The  two-inch  pipe  tile  is  the  best  for  common  drains. 
For  outlet  drains,  the  size  must  be  proportioned  to  the 
number  of  small  drains  which  discharge  into  it. 

Those  who  have  much  draining  to  do,  and  need  infor- 
mation on  tho  subject,  should  procure  a  work  upon  the 
subject. 
4 


74  GENERAL    PRINCIPLES. 

Where  draining  tiles  are  not  to  be  bad  conveniently, 
small  stones  may  be  used.  The  bottom  of  the  drain 
should  be  filled  with  them  to  the  depth  of  eight  or  ten 
inches.  In  using  these,  the  drains  require  to  be  at  least 
six  inches  deeper  than  for  tiles,  in  order  that  a  sufficient 
quantity  of  stones  can  be  used  without  coining  too  near 
the  surface.  Some  brush,  or  turf,  with  the  grassy  side 
downwards,  should  be  laid  on  the  stones  before  filling  in 
the  earth,  to  keep  it  from  filling  up  the  crevices. 

Objections  are  sometimes  made  to  draining  for  orchards 
on  the  ground  that  the  roots  may  get  into  the  drains,  and 
fill  them  up.  This  difficulty  is  obviated  by  placing  the 
rows  of  trees  at  a  proper  distance  from  the  drains. 


CHAPTER  III. 

MANURES. 
SECTION  1. — IMPORTANCE  OF  MANURES. 

JSTo  soil,  whatever  may  be  its  original  fertility,  can  sus- 
tain a  heavy  and  continued  vegetation  for  many  years 
without  becoming,  to  some  extent,  exhausted.  Indeed, 
there  are  few  people  so  fortunate,  except  those  who  settle 
upon  new,  uncultivated  lands,  as  to  procure  a  soil  that 
does  not  need  manuring  to  fit  it  for  the  first  planting  with 
trees.  It  is,  then,  a  matter  of  importance  for  every  man, 
who  has  more  or  less  land  to  cultivate,  to  inform  himself 
well  on  the  subject  of  saving,  preparing,  and  applying 
manures.  In  this  country,  the  only  class  of  men,  general- 
ly speaking,  who  can  be  properly  said  to  collect  and 
manage  manures  with  system  and  care,  are  nurserymen 
and  market  gardeners  near  our  large  towns.  It  is  very 


MANURES.  75 

seldom  that  people  generally  give  the  matter  a  thought 
until  garden-making  time  comes  around  in  the  spring, 
and  then  anything  in  the  form  of  manure  is  carried  into 
the  garden,  and  applied  whether  fit  or  unfit.  This  is  not 
the  proper  course. 

•  Every  garden  should  have  its  manure  heap,  that,  in  the 
fall  or  spring,  when  it  comes  to  be  applied,  will  cut  like 
paste.  In  that  state  only  is  it  safe  to  apply  it.  All  parts 
of  it  are  then  decomposed  thoroughly ;  all  seeds  of 
noxious  plants  are  dead,  and  it  is  in  a  condition  capable 
of  yielding  at  once,  to  the  roots  of  growing  plants,  healthy 
nutrition,  that  will  produce  a  vigorous,  firm,  sound,  and 
fruitful  growth  ;  and  this  is  precisely  what  is  wanted : 
far  better  to  have  a  tree  starved  and  stunted,  than  forced 
into  a  rank,  plethoric  growth,  with  crude,  ill-prepared 
manures. 

SECTION  2. — PREPARATION  OF  MANURES. 

The  best  gardeners  pursue  a  system  something  like 
this  :  A  trench  is  prepared,  two  or  three  feet  deep,  and 
large  enough  to  hold  what  manure  may  be  wanted.  In 
the  bottom  of  this  trench,  a  layer  of  muck,  grassy  turf, 
ashes,  anything  and  everything  capable  of  being  decom- 
posed, is  laid  down,  say  a  foot  deep.  On  the  top  of  this, 
a  thick  layer  of  stable  or  barn-yard  manure,  two  or  three 
feet  deep,  then  another  layer  of  muck,  gypsum,  etc.  In 
this  way  it  remains  until  more  manure  has  accumulated 
around  the  stables ;  it  is  then  carried  and  deposited  in 
another  layer,  with  a  layer  of  the  other  materials  on  the 
top.  The  manure  should  always  be  saturated  with  mois- 
ture, and  trodden  down  firmly  to  hasten  its  decay;  and  if 
an  occasional  load  of  night  soil  could  be  mixed  in  with 
it,  all  the  better.  The  layer  of  muck  and  other  substances 
being  always  placed  on  the  top  of  the  last  layer  of 
manure  absorbs  the  evaporations  of  the  heap,  and  hastens 


70  GENERAL    PRINCIPLES. 

the  decay  of  all.  When  stable  manure  is  thrown  down 
and  left  uncovered,  a  dense  steam  will  be  seen  to  rise 
from  it ;  and  this  is  the  very  essence  of  it  escaping  to  be 
lost ;  and  if  it  be  thrown  down  in  a  heap  dry,  it  will  im- 
mediately burn — that  is,  dry  rot.  Its  enriching  ingredi- 
ents all  pass  off  by  evaporation,  and  there  is  nothing  left 
but  its  ashes,  so  to  speak. 

When  the  heat  has  accumulated  for  four  or  five 
months,  as  described,  the  whole  should  be  turned  over, 
completely  mixed,  and  piled  up  in  a  compact,  firmly 
trodden  mass,  when  it  will  undergo  further  decomposition, 
and,  in  a  short  time,  become  like  paste.  Adjoining  every 
manure  heap  there  should  be  an  excavation,  to  receive  its 
liquid  drainage,  in  order  that  it  may  be  saved,  and  either 
applied,  in  the  growing  season,  in  a  liquid  state,  diluted 
with  water,  or  be  thrown  over  the  heap. 

"  Special  manures  "  have  been  much  talked  of  lately. 
By  the  word  "  special,"  is  meant  a  particular  quantity, 
of  a  particular  mixture,  for  certain  species,  and  even  for 
certain  varieties  of  fruits.  Nearly  all  the  suggestions  on 
the  subject  are  speculative,  and  unreliable.  The  subject 
is  an  important  one,  but  we  want  direct  and  careful  ex- 
periments. It  is  only  when  we  know  to  a  certainty  what 
material  certain  trees  need  most  of,  and  in  what  degree  it 
abounds,  or  is  wanting  in  our  soil,  that  we  can  apply  it 
safely.  The  experience  of  farmers  and  gardeners,  grain 
and  fruit  growers,  all  over  the  world,  affords  undoubted 
evidence  of  the  enriching  qualities  of  stable  manure.  On 
all  soils,  and  for  all  sorts  of  crops,  it  is  an  unfailing  and 
powerful  fertilizer;  and  we  make  it  -the  base  of  all  our 
manure  and  compost  heaps.  By  mixing  with  it  the  in- 
gredients we  have  mentioned,  we  hasten  its  decay,  save 
its  parts  from  waste,  and,  at  the  same  time,  combine  with 
it  other  substances  that  will  not  only  enrich,  but  improve 
the  texture  of  soils,  and  increase  the  supply  of  the  mineral 
substances  required  by  plants.  Dr.  Daubney,  a  distin- 


MANURES.  77 

guished  writer  on  the  character  and  improvement  of 
soils,  etc,  says :  t;  Fortunately,  we  are  provided,  in  the 
dung  of  animals,  with  a  species  of  manure  of  which  the 
land  can  never  be  said  to  tire,  for  this  simple  reason — that 
it  contains  within  itself  not  one  alone,  b;it  all  the  ingre- 
dients which  plants  require  for  their  nutrition,  and  that, 
too,  existing  in  the  precise  condition  in  which  they  are 
most  readily  taken  in  and  assimilated."  But  a  good  sub- 
stitute for  this  article,  where  it  cannot  be  obtained,  is  an 
important  point.  Some  time  ago,  we  noticed  in  the  re- 
port of  a  discussion  on  manures  in  Boston,. that  the  Hon. 
M.  P.  Wilder,  one  of  the  most  distinguished  horticultu- 
rists in  America,  stated  that  he  had  found  the  following 
compost  equal  to  stable  manure  for  gardening  purposes 
generally,  and  for  fruit  trees. 

"  One  cord  of  meadow  muck,  having  been  exposed  to 
the  action  of  the  air  and  frost  at  least  one  year ;  twelve 
bushels  leached  ashes  ;  six  bushels  crushed  bones.  This 
mixture  cost  him  at  the  rate  of  $4.50  cents  per  cord. 
Latterly,  he  added  to  this  his  stable  manure,  and  about 
an  eighth  of  the  whole  bulk  of  fine  refuse  charcoal  from 
the  depot  of  venders,  which  was  delivered  to  him  at  $5 
per  cord  ;  and  in  this  way  he  found  it  the  best,  as  a  gen- 
eral manure,  he  had  ever  used.  On  fruit  trees  its  effect 
was  remarkable. 

"  In  the  spring  of  1847,  he  planted  a  square  in  the  nur- 
sery with  imported  trees  from  England,  this  compost  hav- 
ing been  spread  and  plowed  in.  These  tre.es  were  from 
four  to  five  feet  in  height,  and  although  it  is  not  usual 
for  trees  to  make  a  large  growth  the  first  year,  they  ac- 
quired branches  of  three  to  four  feet. 

"  In  June  last,  which  is  very  late  to  set  out  trees,  he 
prepared  another  square  on  rather  poor  land,  and  planted 
trees  just  received  from  England  upon  it.  The  soil  had 
been  thrown  up  to  the  frost  the  previous  winter,  and  the 
compost  here  was  applied  in  the  trenches,  near  the  roots. 


78  GENERAL    PRINCIPLES. 

Mr.  Wilder  exhibited  two  shoots  which  had  grown  from 
those  trees  since  they  were  set,  in  June.  The  shoots 
were  four  feet  in  length,  and  the  wood  hard,  and  well 
ripened." 

In  addition  to  all  these  sources  for  manure,  it  may  be 
added  that  fallen  leaves,  scrapings  of  streets,  weeds, 
wood  chips,  sawdust,  the  ashes  of  all  primings  of  trees 
and  brush,  soot,  blood,  animal  flesh,  soap-suds,  and  slops 
from  the  kitchen,  and,  in  fact,  everything  decomposable 
may  be  used  to  increase  the  bulk  of  the  manure  heap, 
taking  care  that  CArerything  likely  to  waste  by  evapora- 
tion be  covered  at  once  with  muck,  charcoal,  or  some 
material  calculated  to  absorb  the  gases  evolved  by  decom- 
position. We  very  frequently  see  people,  in  the  spring 
of  the  year,  when  their  garden  is  undergoing  a  purifying 
and  fitting  up  process,  carry  to  the  highway  all  the  brush, 
dry  stems  of  plants,  and  all  the  wreck  of  the  previous 
season's  work,  there  to  make  a  bonfire  to  get  it  out  of  the 
way,  while  at  the  same  moment  they  complain  sadly  of 
the  lack  of  manure. 

There  was  no  such  thing  as  a  manure  heap  on  the 
premises. 

SECTION  3. — MODES  OF  APPLYING  MANURE. 
Where  an  acre  or  several  acres  of  around  are  to  be 

O 

prepared  for  trees,  the  better  way  is  to  spead  the  manure 
over  the  surface,  and  turn  it  in  with  the  plow.  When 
it  is  scarce,  and  economy  necessary,  it  may  be  applied 
around  the  roots,  by  mixing  with  the  earth  at  planting 
time. 

Quantity  to  be  Applied. — This,  of  course,  depends  on 
two  things — the  necessities  of  the  soil,  and  the  quality  of 
the  manure.  If  the  land  be  poor,  an  even  covering  of 
two  or  three  inches  should  be  given ;  if  in  tolerably  good 
condition,  one  inch  will  be  sufficient.  One  inch  of  well- 


MANURES.  79 

decomposed  animal  manure  will  be  equal  to  three  inches 
of  a  partially  decayed  compost. 

SECTION  4. — LIQUID  MANURE. 

Manure,  in  a  liquid  state,  has  these  advantages  to  recom- 
mend it :  It  can  be  applied  to  trees  and  plants  in  a  grow- 
ing state  without,  in  the  least,  disturbing  the  surface  of 
the  soil,  and  it  supplies,  at  the  same  time,  both  nutriment 
and  moisture.  It  can  be  applied  to  bearing  trees,  straw- 
berries, etc.,  -in  fruit,  if  defective  in  vigor,  or  suffering 
from  drouth,  and  yield  an  immediate  sustenance,  ^that 
will  enable  them  to  produce  much  larger  and  finer  fruit 
than  they  could  have  done  without  it. 

It  may  either  be  collected  in  a  tank,  kept  on  purpose 
near  the  barns,  or  it  may  be  made  when  wanted  by  dis- 
solving manure  in  water.  It  may  be  much  stronger  for 
trees,  the  roots  of  which  are  a  considerable  distance  from 
the  surface,  than  for  such  plants  as  have  their  roots  near 
the  surface.  It  is  the  only  prompt  and  effectual  stimu- 
lant for  trees  on  a  poor  soil,  to  enable  them  to  perfect 
their  crop.  We  have  frequently  witnessed  its  astonishing 
effects.  It  should  be  applied  in  the  evening,  and  in  such 
quantity  as  to  penetrate  to  the  roots  ;  half  a  dozen  water- 
ings will  be  sufficient  in  most  cases,  but  it  is  better  to 
apply  it  well  diluted,  and  often,  than  a  smaller  quantity, 
too  strong.  A  dozen  shovelfuls  of  animal  manure  will 
make  a  barrel  of  liquid  powerful  enough  for  most  pur- 
poses ;  and  if  pure  liquid  soakage  of  the  manure  heap  or 
urine  of  animals  is  used,  at  least  one-half  rain-water ' 
should  be  added.  Soap-suds  forms  an  excellent  liquid 
manure  for  all  trees.  The  grape-vine  is  especially  bene- 
fited by  liberal  and  frequent  application. 


80  GENERAL    PRINCIPLES. 

CHAPTER    IV. 

THE   DIFFERENT   MODES  OF    PROPAGATING   FRUIT    TREES. 

General  Remarks. — The  propagation  of  fruit  trees  may 
be  classed  under  two  principal  heads  —  the  Natural, 
which  is  by  seeds  ;  and  the  Artificial,  by  the  division  of 
the  plants,  as  in  cuttings,  layers,  suckers,  buds,  and  grafts. 

PROPAGATION    BY    SEEDS. 

Seedling  fruit  trees  are  propagated  either  to  obtain  new 
varieties,  or  stocks  for  budding  or  grafting.  It  is  only 
where  the  very  rudest  system  of  fruit  culture  is  practised 
— as,  for  instance,  in  newly-settled  countries — that  seed- 
lings are  planted  out  to  bear,  for  the  reason  that,  unless 
in  very  rare  instances,  varieties  worthy  of  cultivation  do 
not  reproduce  themselves  from  seed.  The  important  dif- 
ferences that  exist  between  the  seeds  of  different  classes 
of  fruit  trees  render  it  necessary  to  treat  of  each  sepa- 
rately ;  their  management  will  therefore  be  given  in  detail, 
in  connection  with  the  propagation  of  stocks. 

There  are  some  points,  however,  of  general  application, 
that  may  be  considered  here  with  propriety.  It  scarcely 
admits  of  a  doubt,  but  that  many  of  the  difficulties  met 
with  in  fruit  tree  culture,  as  maladies  of  various  sorts, 
unfruitfulness,  etc.,  are  induced  by  a  careless  and  indis- 
criminating  system  of  propagation. 

The  stock  has  a  most  important  influence  on  the  health, 
T  longevity,  fruitfulness,  and  symmetry  of  the  tree,  and 
should  therefore  be  propagated  nnd  selected  with  due  re- 
gard to  its  soundness,  vigor,  and  hardiness  of  constitution. 

If  it  were  possible,  seeds,  to  grow  stocks  from,  whether 
of  the  apple,  pear,  peach,  plum,  or  any  other,  should  be 
taken  only  from  healthy,  vigorous  trees,  and  from  perfect, 


PROPAGATION   BY   SEEDS.  81 

well-matured  fruits.  This  is  more  especially  important  in 
the  case  of  the  peach,  which,  in  some  sections,  is  affected 
with  a  fatal  malady,  known  as  the  "  yellows." 

In  the  case  of  the  plum,  too,  care  should  be  taken  not 
to  grow  stocks  from  the  seeds  of  trees  affected  with  that 
well-known  fungus  disease,  called  "  black-knot." 

I  have  strong  reasons  for  believing  that  stocks  grown 
from  trees  affected  with  this  disease  will  soon  fall  a  prey 
to  it.  Indeed,  I  have  seen  it  make  its  appearance  among 
seedlings  during  their  first  season's  growth  in  the  seed- 
bed. 

As  this  disease  is  now  so  prevalent,  I  would  recommend 
the  total  rejection  of  American  seedlings  unless  grown 
from  seed  positively  known  to  be  the  product  of  sound 
trees.  It  is  safer  to  import  stocks  from  Europe,  where 
the  plum-tree  is  exempt  from  the  black-knot. 

In  regard  to  other  stocks,  as  the  apple,  pear,  cherry, 
etc.,  usually  grown  from  seed  saved  promiscuously,  the 
greatest  care  should  be  taken  to  select  and  plant  out,  for 
budding  or  grafting  upon,  only  such  as  show  unmistaka- 
ble signs  of  health  and  vigor;  all  others  should  be  dis- 
carded. The  strongest  stocks  come  from  the  sound  and 
healthy  seed,  and  it  is  a  pretty  safe  rule  to  discard  the 
small  ones. 

A  discriminating  spirit  is  already  becoming  apparent 
among  the  best  classes  of  cultivators,  and  their  example 
will  soon  be  felt.  The  selection  of  seeds  for  stocks  is  a 
point  of  more  than  ordinary  importance,  and  merits  the 
special  attention  of  every  man  engaged,  to  whatever  ex- 
tent, in  the  propagation  of  fruit  trees. 

Production  of  New  Varieties. — New  varieties  are  pro- 
duced from  seeds  that  have  been  properly  hybridized,  as 
described  in  the  article  on  hybridization,  or  from  seeds  of 
the  best  specimens  of  the  best  varieties. 

Where  it  is  desired  to  obtain  seedlings  of  a  particular 
variety,  free  from  any  crossing  with  others,  the  flowers 
4* 


GENERAL    PRINCIPLES. 


should  be  protected  while  in  blossom,  to  guard  .them 
against  foreign  impregnation  ;  seeds  should  be  saved  only 
from  large,  perfect,  fine  flavored  specimens,  and  the  seeds 
themselves  should  be  plump  and  mature.  Sometimes  a 
good  variety  is  obtained  by  selecting  from  beds  of  seed- 
lings, such  as  possess  marked  evidences  of  improvement ; 
vigorous,  luxuriant  growth,  large,  heavy  foliage,  promi- 
nent buds,  and  smooth,  thornless  wood.  These  characters 
indicate  superiority,  but  do  not  always  ensure  superior 
fruit.  The  stock  is  supposed  to  exert  considerable  influ- 
ence on  the  seed ;  and  if  this  be  the  case,  it  would  be  well 
to  get  such  varieties  as-  we  wish  seeds  from,  on  their  own 
roots,  by  layering,  or  grafting  on  roots  in  the  ground,  so 
that  the  graft  will,  itself,  strike  root.  Mr.  Knight's  mode, 
of  obtaining  seedlings  of  the  best  varieties,  was  to  prepare 
stocks  from  some  good  sort  that  would  strike  from  cuttings. 
These  stocks  he  planted  in  rich,  warm  soil,  and  grafted 
with  the  kind  he  wanted  the  seeds  from.  The  first  season 
after  grafting  he  took  them  up,  reduced  the  roots,  and 
planted  again.  In  this  way  he  had  them  bear  fruit  in  two 
years.  He  allowed  only  a  couple  of  specimens  to  remain 
on  each  tree,  and  these,  consequently,  were  very  large, 
mature,  and  every  way  fine,  and  from  these  the  seeds 
were  taken.  Seedlings  may  be  tested  quickly,  by  bud- 
ding or  grafting  them  on  bearing  trees.  We  may  fruit 
apples  and  pears  in  this  way  in  four  or  five  years,  whilst 
ten  or  fifteen  would  be  necessary  on  their  own  roots. 

2.  By  Division  of  the  Plants. — It  h;is  been  remarked, 
in  the  article  on  buds,  that  every  bud  is  capable,  under 
favorable  circumstances,  of  producing  a  new  individual, 
similar  to  that  from  which  it  is  taken. 

Hence  it  is,  that  out  of  the  young  annual  wood  of  an 
apple,  pear,  peach,  or  any  other  fruit  tree,  we  frequently 
make  several  hundreds.  Every  good,  well-formed  bud, 
properly  separated,  and  inserted  under  the  bark  of  the  in- 
dividuals of  the  same,  or  a  closely  allied  species,  will,  in 


PROPAGATION    BY    CUTTINGS.  83 

one  ^rear  from  its  insertion,  or  with  one  season's  growth, 
have  become  a  new  tree.  It  is  by  these  means  we  are 
enabled  to  disseminate  new  varieties  with  such  wonderful 
rapidity.  If  a  young  tree,  of  a  new  variety,  will  make  half 
a  dozen  shoots  the  first  season,  each  bearing  half  a  dozen 
buds,  we  can,  if  we  have  stocks  to  bud  on,  be  in  possession 
of  thirty  trees  of  that  variety  in  two  years  from  the  time 
we  obtained  one  tree,  and  in  another  year  we  may  have 
four  times  that  number.  The  production  of  a  tree  from 
a  bud,  a  graft,  a  layer,  or  a  cutting,  is  but  the  same  thing, 
effected  by  different  means.  In  all  the  cases,  a  part  of  the 
parent  plant,  with  one  or  more  buds  attached,  is  separated 
from  it.  The  cutting,  sometimes  composed  of  one  bud,  or 
joint,  and  sometimes  of  several,  we  put  directly  in  the 
ground,  where  it  forms  roots.  The  graft  is  a  cutting  in- 
serted, not  in  the  ground,  but  in  the  wood  of  another 
plant,  to  which  it  unites.  The  bud  inserted  under  the  bark 
of  another  tree,  and  the  one  buried  in  the  ground,  differ 
only  in  this,  that  one  draws  its  support  directly  from  the 
soil,  and  the  other  indirectly,  through  the  tree  to  which 
it  unites. 

SECTION  1. — PROPAGATION  BY  CUTTINGS. 

A  cutting  is  a  shoot,  or  part  of  a  shoot,  generally  of  one 
season's  growth.  The  length  of  the  cutting  varies  from 
a  single  eye,  or  joint,  to  a  foot,  according  to  the  nature 
of  the  species,  or  the  circumstances  under  which  it  is  to 
be  grown.  The  wood  should  be  as  stout  and  mature  as 
possible,  and  should  be  cut  close  and  smooth  to  a  bud  at 
both  ends  (fig.  58).  In  all  cases,  cuttings  taken  off  close 
to  the  old  wood,  with  the  base  attached,  as  in  fig.  59,  are 
more  successful  than  when  cut  at  several  joints  above ; 
and  in  many  cases,  as  in  the  quince,  for  example,  an  inch 
or  two  of  the  old  wood  left  attached  to  the  base  of  the 
cutting,  as  in  fig.  60,  render  it  still  more  certain  of  sue- 


84 


GENERAL    PRINCIPLES. 


cess.  The  more  buds  we  can  get  around  the  base  of  a 
cutting,  the  better,  other  things  being  equal ;  for  these 
buds,  as  soon  as  they  become  active,  send  down  new 
matter,  from  which  the  roots  are  emitted. 

Cuttings  of  the  grape  are  sometimes  made  of  a  single 
eye  (fig.  61),  with  an  inch  or  so  of  wood  above  and  below  it. 

The  time  to  make  cuttings  is  in  the  fall,  as  soon  as  the 


Figs.  58  to  63. — CUTTINGS. 

58,  a  cutting,  all  of  young  wood  ;  59,  a  cutting,  with  a  heel  of  old  wood  ;  60,  a 

cutting,  with  2  or  3  eyes  of  old  wood  ;  61,  a  cutting  of  a  single  eye  of  the  grape 

vine ;  62,  a  long  cutting  of  the  grape  ;  line  A,  J5,  surface  of  the  ground. 

wood  is  ripe,  and  through  the  early  winter  months.  It 
should  not  be  deferred  later  than  January.  The  soil  for 
cuttings  is  of  the  greatest  importance  to  their  success,  for 
if,  on  the  one  hand,  it  be  cold,  damp,  and  compact,  they 
will  decay,  and  if  too  loose  and  sandy,  they  will  dry  up 
for  the  want  of  sufficient  moisture.  A  soil  so  mellow  that 
it  cannot  bake,  and  yet  so  compact  as  to  retain  humidity 
enough  to  support  the  cuttings  until  new  roots  are  formed, 
seems  to  be  absolutely  necessary — such  a  soil  as  we  may 


PROPAGATION    BY    CUTTINGS.  85 

suppose  a  good  garden  border  to  be  composed  of.  Rooted 
plants  can  endure  extremes,  but  cuttings  require  the  most 
f.ivorable  circumstances. 

Time  to  plant. — The  fall  would  be  the  better  season 
to  plant  all  cuttings,  if  we  could  cover  them  so  as  to  pre- 
vent the  frost  from  heaving  them  out.  It  is  on  account 
of  this  difficulty  that  we  plant,  from  necessity,  in  the 
spring  ;  but  spring  planting  must  be  done  very  early,  that 
vegetation  may  proceed  gradually.  If  late  planted,  warm 
weather  comes  on  them  at  once,  before  they  have  formed 
roots  sufficient  to  support  the  demands  of  the  young 
leaves.  Where  only  a  few  are  grown,  shading  might,  at 
certain  times,  be  given,  and  some  light  substance,  like 
sawdust,  be  spread  about  them,  to  preserve  an  even  tem- 
perature and  humidity,  or  they  might  be  put  in  a  cold- 
frame,  where  they  could  receive  any  required  attention. 
Where  acres  of  cuttings  are  grown,  these  things  are  not 
practicable. 

Depth  to  plant. — As  a  general  thing,  cuttings  should  be 
inserted  so  deep,  that  only  two  buds  will  be  above  the 
surface  of  the  ground,  and  in  the  vine  only  one.  If  cut- 
tings are  long,  they  need  not  be  set  perpendicularly,  but 
sloping,  so  as  to  be  within  reach  of  heat  and  air.  A 
cutting  of  a  single  eye  of  the  vine,  with  a  piece  of  wood 
attached,  must  be  entirely  covered — say  half  an  inch 
deep ;  see  figures  58  to  62,  ground  line,  A,  B.  But  such 
cuttings  are  seldom  planted,  except  in  pots,  in  houses,  or 
in  hot-beds. 

Preserving  Cuttings. — If  cuttings  are  not  planted  in 
the  autumn,  they  should  at  least  be  prepared  quite  early 
in  the  winter,  and  be  buried  in  the  earth,  out  of  doors,  in 
a  pit.  A  mound  of  earth  should  be  drawn  up  over  the 
pit  to  throw  off  water.  At  the  very  first  favorable  mo- 
ment in  the  spring,  they  should  be  planted.  Trenches 
are  opened  as  deep  as  necessary  with  a  spade,  and  the 
cuttings  set  in  it  at  the  proper  distances,  from  three  inches 


86  GENERAL    PRINCIPLES. 

to  a  foot,  according  to  circumstances.  When  the  cuttings 
are  in  the  trench,  the  earth  is  partly  filled  in,  and  trod 
firmly  down  with  the  foot,  then  the  balance  is  filled  in  and 
leveled  up. 

Cuttings  require  particular  attention  in  the  way  of 
weeding  and  hoeing ;  if  weeds  grow  up  thickly,  and  ap- 
propriate the  moisture  of  the  ground,  or  if  the  surface  be 
allowed  to  crack,'  as  it  may,  after  rains,  if  not  quite  sandy, 
they  will  either  make  a  feeble  growth  or  fail  entirely. 
The  ground  wants  repeated  stirring  to  keep  it  friable  and 
perfectly  free  from  weeds. 


SECTION  2. — PROPAGATION  BY  LAYERING. 

A  layer  is  similar  to  a  cutting,  except  that  it  is  allowed 
to  remain  in  partial  connection  with  the  parent  plant 
until  it  has  emitted  roots.  On  this  account,  layers  are 
much  more  certain  than  cuttings.  It  is  the  surest  and 
most  simple  method  of  propagating  the  Grape  and  the 
Gooseberry,  and  also  the  Quince,  Paradise,  and  Doucin, 
for  stocks.  It  may  be  performed  in  the  spring  with  shoots 
of  the  previous  year's  growth,  before  vegetation  has  com- 
menced, or  in  July  and  August,  on  wood  of  the  same 
season's  growth".  The  ordinary  mode  of  doing  it  is,  first, 
to  spade  over  and  prepare  the  ground  in  which  the  branch 
is  to  be  laid,  in  order  to  make  it  light  and  friable.  The 
branch  is  then  brought  down  to  the  ground  (fig.  63) ;  an 
incision  is  made  at  the  base  of  bud,  A.,  through  the  bark 
and  partly  through  the  wood  ;  the  knife  is  drawn  upward, 
splitting  the  shoot  an  inch  or  two  in  length,  and  the 
branch  is  laid  in  the  earth  with  the  cut  open,  and  kept 
down  by  means  of  a  crooked  or  hooked  wooden  peg,  J5. 
The  earth  is  then  drawn  in  smoothly  around,  covering  it 
two  or  three  inches  deep;  and  the  end  of  the  shoot  that 
•is  above  ground  is  tied  up  to  a  stick,  (7,  if  it  requires 


PROPAGATION    BY    LAYERING. 


87 


Fig.    63.— A   COMMON   LAYER. 

A,  the   incision ;    B,  hooked   pcj 
<7,  stake. 


support.  In  the  Grape,  Gooseberry,  or  Currant,  a  simple 
notch  below  a  bud  is  sufficient,  and  they  will  root  if  sim- 
ply pegged  down  ;  but  roots 
are  formed  more  rapidly 
when  the  shoot  is  cut  one- 
third  through,  and  slit  as 
described. 

A  long  "shoot  of  the  vine 
may  be  layered  at  several 
points,  and  thus  produce 
several  rooted  plants  in  the 
course  of  one  season.  This 
is  called  serpentine  layering 
(fig.  64).  The  Quince,  Para- 
dise, and  Doucin  stocks, 
where  raised  in  large  quan- 
tities, are  propagated  in  a 
different  way  from  that  de- 
scribed. The  process  requires  much  less  labor ;  and 
where  plants  root  so  freely  as  they  do,  it  answers  every 
purpose. 

We  will  take  a  plant  of  the  quince,  for  example,  and, 
in  the  spring,  before  growth  commences,  we  cut  it  down 
nearly  to  the  ground,  leaving  four  or  five  buds  at  its  base 
(A,  fig.  65).  Dur- 
ing that  season,  a 
number  of  vig- 
orous shoots  will 
be  made.  The 
following  au- 
tumn or  spring 
the  earth  is 
drawn  up  around 
the  base  of  the  Fi-'  ^.-SERPENTINE  LATER. 

plant,  so  that  the  crown,  where  it  was  cut,  will  be  covered, 
and,  consequently,  the  base  of  all  the  shoots  for  several 


88 


GENERAL    PRINCIPLES. 


inches  in  height.   During  the  next  summer's  growth,  every 
branch  is  sufficiently  rooted  to  be  separated  and  placed  in 

nursery  rows  the  following 
spring.  This  is  the  way  to 
obtain  strong  stocks  ;  for  the 
cutting  back  of  the  mother 
plant  produces  very  vigorous 
shoots  the  first  season,  and 
when  another  season's 
growth  is  added,  they  are  as 
strong  as  can  be  desired. 
We  succeed  in  rooting 
these  shoots  the  first  season 
of  their  growth  by  earth- 
ing •  them  up  about  mid- 

A,  the  point  at"wwc7the  mother  plant  snmmer ;    but   they  are  not 
was  cut  back.  quite  strong  enough,  or  suf- 

ficiently rooted,  for   transplanting   and  budding  the  fol- 
lowing season. 


Fig.    65.— MOUND -LAYERING   OR 
BANKING-UP. 


SECTION  3. — PROPAGATION  BY  SUCKERS. 


Suckers  are  shoots  sent  up  from  the  roots.  We  observe 
them  most  frequently  around  trees  that  have  had  their 
roots  wounded  by  the  spade  or  plow.  The  wounds  induce 
the  formation  of  buds,  and  these  buds  send  up  shoots. 
They  are  occasionally  used  from  necessity  for  stocks,  but 
should  not  be  employed  where  seedlings  can  be  obtained. 
Occasionally,  we  find  certain  varieties  of  plum  throw  up 
fine  vigorous  suckers,  that  would  make  excellent  stocks  if 
taken  off  with  good  roots  ;  but  their  tendency  to  produce 
suckers  renders  them  exceedingly  annoying  in  gardens, 
and,  on  this  account,  objectionable.  The  roots  of  the 
raspberry  are  full  of  buds,  and,  consequently,  throw 
up  great  quantities  of  suckers,  and  the  smallest  cuttings 


PROPAGATION    BY    BUDDING.  89 

of  the  roots  will  grow.  Suckers,  of  any  plants,  that  can 
easily  be  propagated  by  cuttings  or  layers,  should  never 
be  used. 

SECTION  4. — PROPAGATION  BY  BUDDING. 

This  operation  is  performed  during  the  growing  season, 
and  usually  on  young  trees  from  one  to  five  years  old, 
with  a  smooth,  soft  bark.  It  consists  in  separating  a  bud, 
with  a  portion  of  bark  attached,  from  a  shoot  of  the  cur- 
rent season's  growth  of  one  tree,  and  inserting  it  under 
the  bark  of  another.  When  this  bud  begins  to  grow,  all 
that  part  of  the  stock  above  it  is  cut  away,  the  bud  grows 
on,  and  eventually  forms  a  tree  of  the  same  variety  as 
that  from  which  it  was  taken.  Buds  may  be  inserted  in 
June,  and  make  considerable  growth  the  same  season,  as 
they  do  in  the  South,  but,  as  a  general  thing,  this  is  not 
desirable  in  the  propagation  of  fruit  trees.  The  ordinary 
season  in  the  Northern  States  is  from  the  middle  of  July 
until  the  middle  of  September,  and  the  earliness  or  late- 
ness at  which  a  species  is  budded  depends,  other  things 
being  equal,  on  the  condition  of  its  growth. 

Those  accomplishing  their  growth  early  in  the  season 
are  budded  early,  and  those  that  grow  until  the  autumn 
are  budded  late.  Thus  the  season  extends  over  a  period 
exceeding  two  months.  In  all  cases,  the  following  condi- 
tions are  necessary : 

1st.  The  buds  must  be  perfectly  developed  i)i  the  axils 
of  the  leaves  on  the  young  shoots  intended  to  bud  from. 
This  is  seldom  the  case  until  the  shoot  has  temporarily 
ceased  to  lengthen,  as  indicated  by  the  perfect  formation 
of  its  terminal  bud. 

If  buds  are  wanted  before  this  condition  naturally  ar- 
rives, their  maturity  may  be  hastened  very  much  by 
pinching  the  tips  of  the  shoots.  In  ten  or  twelve  days 
after  the  pinching  of  a  very  soft  shoot,  its  buds  are  fit  for 
working. 


90  GENERAL    PRINCIPLES. 

2d.  The  bark  must  raise  freely  from  the  stocks  to  be  bud- 
ded. This  only  happens  when  the  stocks  are  in  a  thrifty 
and  growing  state.  Trees  that  accomplish  most  of  their 
growth  early  in  the  season,  must  be  watched  and  budded 
before  they  cease  to  grow  ;  those  that  grow  very  late  must 
not  be  budded  early,  or  the  formation  of  new  wood  will 
surround  and  cover  the  buds  ;  in  gardener's  language, 
they  will  be  "  drowned  by  the  sap." 

The  implements  needed  are  a  pruning-knife,  to  dress 
the  stocks  by  removing  any  branches  that  may  be  in  the 
way  of  inserting  the  bud;  and  a  budding  knife,  to  take 
off  the  buds  and  make  the  incisions  in  the  stock.  The 
latter  should  have  a  very  thin,  smooth,  and  keen  edge. 

Strings  for  tying  in  the  buds  are  either  taken  from  bass 
mats,  or  they  are  prepared  from  the  bark  of  the  basswood. 
"We  always  prepare  our  own ;  we  send  to  the  woods  and 
strip  the  bark  off  the  trees  in  June ;  we  then  put  it  in 
water  from  two  to  three  weeks,  according  to  the  age  of 
the  bark,  until  the  fibrous,  paper-like  inner  bark  can  be 
easily  separated  from  the  outer,  when  it  is  torn  into  strips, 
dried,  and  put  away  for  use. 

Cutting  and  Preparing  the  Buds. — Young  shoots,  in 
the  condition  described,  are  cut  below  the  lowest  plump 
bud ;  an  inch  or  two  of  the  base  of  every  shoot,  where 
the  buds  are  very  close  together,  and  quite  small,  should 
be  left.  The  leaves  are  then  stripped  off,  leaving  half  of 
each  leaf-stalk  to  handle  the  bud  by,  as  in  fig.  63. 

Preserving  the  JBucZs. — When  a  considerable  quantity  is 
cut  at  once,  they  should  be  stripped  of  the  leaves  and 
wrapped  in  a  damp  cloth  as  soon  as  cut ;  and  they  may  be 
preserved  in  good  order  for  ten  days,  by  keeping  them 
in  a  cool  cellar  among  damp  sawdust,  or  closely  en- 
veloped in  damp  cloths,  matting,  or  moss.  We  often 
send  buds  a  week's  journey,  packed  in  moss  slightly 
moistened  ;  the  leaves  being  off,  the  evaporation  is  trifling, 


PROPAGATION    BY    BUDDING. 


91 


none,  in  fact,  when  packed  up,  consequently  very  little 
moisture  is  needed. 

Having  the  stocks,  buds,  and  implements  in  the  condi- 
tion described,  the  operation  is  performed  in  this  way : 

The  shoot  to  bud  from  is  taken  in  one  hand,  and  the 
budding-knife  in  the  other;  the  lower  part  of  the  edge  of 

the  knife  is  placed  on 
the  shoot,  half  an  inch 
above  the  bud  to  be 
removed  (A,  fig.  66) ; 
the  thumb  of  the  knife- 
hand  rests  on  the  shoot 
below  the  bud  _Sy  a 
drawing  cut  is  then 
made  parallel  with  the 
shoot,  removing  the 
bud  and  the  bark,  to 
which  it  is  attached, 
half  an  inch  above  and 
three-quarters  below 
it.  This  is  the  usual 
le»gth,  !><*  it  may,  in 

removing  a  bud.    Fig.  67,  A  bud  badly  taken    many  Cases,  be  shorter, 
off,  with  a  hollow  in  the  center.      Fig.  68,  A    r™  .     •      .mnrla     •  ,cf 

good  bud ;  A,  root  of  bud ;  J5,  root  of  leaf.  Q    JUSt 

deep  enough  to  be  be- 
low the  bark.  A  small  portion  of  the  wood  is  always 
taken  off  with  it,  and  if  this  adheres  firmly,  it  should 
be  allowed  to  remain  ;  if  it  parts  freely,  it  should  be 
taken  out,  but  in  doing  so,  the  root  of  the  bud  must 
be  carefully  preserved,  for  if  it  comes  out  with  the 
wood,  the  bud  is  useless.  The  root  of  the  bud,  as  it 
is  termed,  is  a  small  portion  of  wood  in  the  hollow 
part  of  the  inside  of  the  bud.  Fig.  67  is  a  good  bud  ; 
A,  root  of  bud,  J?,  root  of  leaf.  Fig.  68  is  imperfect, 
the  roots  of  leaf  and  bud  both  out.  A  smooth  place 
on  the  stock,  clear  of  branches,  is  then  chosen,  where  two 


Figs.  6G  to  68. — BUDDING. 


92  GENERAL    PRINCIPLES. 

incisions  are  made  to  the  depth  of  the  bark,  one  across 
the  end  of  the  other,  so  as  to  form  a  T»  (fig.  69) ;  the  bark 
on  the  two  edges  of  the  perpendicular  cut  is  raised  (fig. 
70)  with  the  smooth  ivory  handle  of  the  budding-knife, 
and  the  bud  is  inserted  between  them  (fig.  71) ;  the  upper 
end  of  the  bark  attached  to  the  bud  is  cut  square,  to  fit 
to  the  horizontal  cut  on  the  stock ;  the  bass  string  is  then 
wound  around  tightly,  commencing  at  the  bottom,  and 
covering  every  part  of  the  incision,  leaving  the  bud  itself 
rind  the  leaf-stalk  uncovered  (fig.  72)  ;  the  string  is  fasten- 
ed above  the  horizontal  cut,  and  the  work  is  done.  The 


70.  71.  72. 

Figs.  69  to  72. — INSEBTION  OF  THE  BUD. 

Fig.  69,  J.,  stock  with  the  bark  slit  vertically  and  across.  Fig.  70,  the  same, 
with  the  bark  raised.  Fig.  71,  the  same,  with  the  bud  inserted.  Fig.  72,  the 
same,  tied  up. 

success  of  the  operation,  as  far  as  its  execution -is  con- 
cerned, depends,  in  a  great  measure,  on  smooth  cuts,  an 
exact  Jit  of  the  bud  to  the  incision  made  for  it,  secure, 
close  tying,  that  will  completely  exclude  air  and  rain- 
water, and  the  quick  performance  of  the  whole.  The  in- 
sertion of  a  bud  should  not,  in  any  case,  occupy  more  than 
a  minute  •  ordinary  practiced  budders  will  set  two  in 


PROPAGATION    BY    GRAFTING.  93 

that  time,  and  often  two  hundred  in  an  hour,  with  a  per- 
son to  tie.  Where  the  stocks  and  buds  work  well,  two 
thousand  is  not  an  uncommon  day's  work  in  our  nurseries, 
especially  of  cherries,  peaches,  and  apples.  Budding  is 
usually  much  more  successful  when  performed  in  moder- 
ately dry  weather  than  in  wet — the  sap  being  in  a  condi- 
tion more  favorable  for  the  formation  of  a  union  between 
the  stock  and  bud. 

The  chief  difficulty,  experienced  by  beginners  in  bud- 
ding, is  the  proper  removal  of  the  bud.  When  it  hap- 
pens that  the  knife  passes  exactly  between  the  bark  and 
wood,  the  bud  cannot  fail  to  be  good  ;  but  this  rarely 
happens — more  or  less  wood  is  attached,  and  the  removal 
of  this  is  the  nice  point.  Where  the  buds  are  flat,  the 
difficulty  is  less  than  when  they  have  large,  prominent 
shoulders,  as  the  plum  and  pear  have,  in  many  cases. 
When  all  the  wood  is  taken  out  of  these,  a  cavity  re- 
mains, which  does  not  come  in  contact  with  the  wood  on 
which  the  bud  is  placed,  and  therefore,  although  the  bark 
unites  well,  the  bud  will  not  grow.  A  little  practice  will 
enable  the  budder  to  overcome  this  and  all  other  me- 
chanical difficulties. 

SECTION  5. — PROPAGATION  BY  GRAFTING. 

Grafting  is  the  insertion  of  a  cion  of  one  species  or 
variety  on  the  stem  or  branch  of  another,  which  is  called 
the  stock.  Its  principal  object  is  the  same  as  budding, 
to  increase  certain  varieties  that  cannot  be  reproduced 
from  seed  with  certainty  ;  but  it  is  frequently  performed 
with  other  objects  in  view.  For  instance : 

1o  Fruit  a  New  Variety. — A  cion  inserted  in  a  branch 
of  a  bearing  tree,  will  bear  fruit  perhaps  the  second  year 
from  the  graft ;  but  if  the  same  cion  had  been  put  on  a 
young  seedling,  it  would  not  have  borne  in  ten  years. 

One  species  is  frequently  grafted   with    success  upon 


94  GENEBAL    PRINCIPLES. 

another,  by  which  certain  important  modifications  are 
wrought  upon  both  the  size  and  fruitfulness  of  trees,  and 
the  quality  of  the  fruits.  Thus,  we  can  graft,  in  many 
cases,  with  highly  beneficial  results,  the  peach  and  .apri- 
cot on  the  plum,  the  pear  on  the  quince,  strong-grow- 
ing species  and  varieties  on  weaker  ones,  and  vice  versa. 
But  experience  has  established  the  fact,  that  there  must 
be,  between  the  stock  and  graft,  a  close  alliance.  We  cannot 
graft  an  apple  on  a,  peach,  nor  a  cherry  on  a  pear  /  but  the 
pear,  the  apple,  quince,  medlar,  thorn,  and  mountain-ash 
— a  naturally  allied  group — may,  with  more  or  less  suc- 
cess, be  worked  upon  one  another. 

The  French  horticulturists,  who  are  the  most  skillful 
and  curious  in  all  matters  pertaining  to  the  propagation 
of  plants,  describe  in  their  works  upwards  of  one  hun- 
dred different  modes  of  grafting,  practiced  in  different 
ages  and  countries,  and  for  the  attainment  of  particular 
objects ;  but,  however  interesting  the  study  of  all  these 
may  be  to  the  student  and  experimentalist,  the  great  bulk 
of  them  are  of  little  practical  utility,  and  are  never  applied 
in  the  multiplication  of  fruit  trees.  It  is,  therefore,  un- 
necessary to  fill  up  the  pages  of  such  a  treatise  as  this, 
with  either  a  historical  account,  or  description  of  them. 
The  methods  described  below  are  those  universally  adopt- 
ed, with  slight  modifications,  by  the  best  practical  propa- 
gators everywhere  at  the  present  day. 

/Stocks  are  of  all  ages,  from  a  yearling  seedling  to  a 
tree  forty  or  fifty  years  old  ;  but  of  whatever  age,  they 
should  be  sound  and  healthy.  Nursery  stocks  will  be 
more  particularly  spoken  of  in  the  proper  place. 

Cions  are  generally  shoots  of  the  previous  year's 
growth.  Those  bearing  fruit-buds  are  only  used  for 
the  purpose  of  experiment,  and  in  that  rarely.  They 
should  be  cut  in  the  autumn  after  the  fall  of  the  leaf,  or 
in  the  winter,  and  be  preserved  carefully  in  earth  until 
wanted  for  use.  If  intended  for  root-grafting  early  in  the 


PROPAGATION    BY    GRAFTING.  95 

spring  in  the  house,  it  will  be  sufficient  to  bury  their 
lower  ends  in  earth,  in  a  cool,  dry  cellar ;  but  if  wanted 
for  out-door  grafting,  they  should  be  buried  in  dry  sand 
soil,  in  a  pit,  on  the  north  side  of  a,  wall  or  fence,  and 
deeply  covered  with  earth  drawn  up  in  a  mound  to  throw 
off  the  water.  They  are  thus  kept  perfectly  dormant  un- 
til used,  and  not  so  dry  as  to  shrivel  the  bark,  They 
should  always  be  taken  from  healthy,  vigorous  trees  ex- 
clusively, and  be  of  firm,  well-ripened  wood  from  the  up- 
per branches  of  the  tree.  A  moderate-sized  shoot  or  cion, 
if  well  matured  and  sound,  is  much  better  than  one  as 
thick  as  a  man's  finger,  pithy  and  unripe.  The  implements 
used  in  grafting  are  the  grafting-knife,  saw,  and  chisel, 
(see  implements).  In  whip-grafting  or  splice-grafting, 
the  stocks  being  small  require  the  knife  only,  or  not  more 
than  the  knife  and  chisel.  It  is  always  better  to  have  two 
knives — one  to  prune  and  do  the  rough  work,  and  the 
other  to  prepare  the  cion.  Grafting  composition  is  pre- 
pared in  various  ways.  Hosin,  beesioax,  and  tallow,  in 
about  equal  parts,  answer  very  well.  Lately,  however, 
we  have  found  it  better  to  use  more  rosin  and  less  bees- 
wax and  tallow  ;  thus,  to  two  pounds  of  rosin  we  add  one 
and  one-fourth  pounds  of  beeswax,  and  three-fourths  of  a 
pound  of  tallow.  For  whip-grafting  on  the  root,  and 
small  trees  in  the  nursery,  we  use  thin  calico  cloth,  satu- 
rated with  this  composition,  instead  of  the  composition  it- 
self, and  find  it  more  convenient  and  expeditious.  For 
root  grafts,  instead  of  cloth,  we  now  use  paper,  which  we 
find  answers  the  purpose  perfectly.  This  paper  is  a  cheap 
brown  article  known  here  as  "  grafting  paper  "  and  is  used 
by  nearly  all  nurserymen  for  this  purpose.  The  liquid 
wax  is  spread  on  the  paper  with  a  brush,  after  which  it  is 
cut  into  strips  an  inch  or  so  wide,  ready  for  use.  (Instead 
of  tallow  we  now  use  raw  linseed  oil,  a  pint  of  which  is  equal 
to  a  pound  of  tallow.)  We  tear  the  calico  into  narrow, 
strips,  roll  it  into  balls,  and  then  soak  it  in  the  liquid  com- 


96 


GENERAL    PRINCIPLES. 


position  until  every  pore  of  the  cloth  is  filled  with  it.  The 
person  who  applies  it  to  the  grafts  takes  it  from  these 
balls,  tears  it  in  pieces  the  length  and  breadth  required 
by  the  size  of  the  stock,  and  two  or  three  turns  of  it 
around  the  graft  secure  it  completely.  This  thin  cloth 
soon  decays,  and  yields  to  the  enlargement  of  the  part  it 
incloses.  We  have  tried  tow,  paper,  and  other  materials, 
but  find  this  the  best.  Having  the  cions,  implements, 
and  composition  in  readiness,  the  work  is  performed  as 
follows : 

Whip-  Grafting  on  the  Hoot. — For  this  purpose,  seed- 
ling stocks  are  generally  used,  one   or  two 
years  old,  varying  from  one-fourth  to  three- 
eighths  of  an  inch  in  diameter.     The  graft  is 
always  made  at  the  collar,  and,  therefore,  the 
stems   of    the   plants    are   cut    off    at   that 
point ;  the  small  tap-roots  and  any  cumbrous 
fibres     are     removed, 
leaving     them     about 
four  inches   in  length 
(fig.  73) ;  they  are  then 
washed  clean,  and  are 
ready   for    the    opera- 
tion.   The  grafter  then 
makes  a  smooth,  even, 
sloping    cut,    an    inch 
long,  upwards,  on  the 
collar  of  the  root,  A  ; 
and   in   the    center  of 
this   cut   he   makes   a 
slit     or      tongue,    -B, 
downwards.  The  cion, 
which  should  be  three 

Or     four     inches     long    2/,  the  tongue.    Fig.  75,  the  union  of  cion  and 

(fig.  74),  is  cut  on  the  stock- 

lower  end   with  a  sloping  cut   downwards,   and  similar 


PROPAGATION    BY    GRAFTING.  97 

in  all  respects  to  that  made  on  the  stock ;  a  slit,  or 
tongue,  is  made  in  it  upwards,  B,  corresponding,  also, 
with  that  on  the  stock ;  and  they  are  then  neatly  fitted 
together,  the  tongue  of  the  one  within  the  other  (fig. 
75),  and  the  inner  barks  of  both  placed  in  close  and 
perfect  contact,  at  least  on  one  side.  The  fit  should 
be  so  complete  as  to  sit  close  and  firm  in  all  parts. 
The  person  who  applies  the  wax  takes  a  narrow  strip 
of  the  cloth  or  paper  described,  and  wraps  it  firmly 
around,  covering  the  parts  united.  A  man  and  boy  can 
graft  of  these,  twelve  to  fifteen  hundred  per  day,  and  by 
a  special  effort,  two  thousand.  When  the  grafting  is  thus 
performed,  the  grafted  plants  are  put  away  as  closely  as 
they  can  be  packed  in  small  boxes,  with  sandy  earth 
among  the  roots,  and  deposited  either  in  a  cold  cellar  or 
in  a  dry  place  out  of  doors,  where  frost  cannot  penetrate 
to  the  roots,  until  planting  time  in  spring. 

Whip- Grafting  on  small  trees,  standing  in  the  open 
ground,  is  performed  in  precisely  the  same  manner,  the 
oblique  or  sloping  cut  and  tongue,  corresponding  in  stock 
and  graft,  fitting  into  each  other  with  precision,  and  the 
inner  bark  of  both,  at  least  on  one  side,  placed  in  close 
contact.  Stocks  an  inch  in  diameter  can  be  grafted  in  this 
way.  Either  the  cloth  or  the  liquid  composition  may  be 
applied,  the  latter  put  on  with  a  brush.  For  all  moderate 
sized  stocks  the  cloth  is  preferable.  In  cold  weather,  a 
small  furnace  can  be  kept  at  hand  to  keep  the  composi- 
tion in  working  order. 

Cleft  Grafting  is  practiced  on  trees  or  branches  too 
large  for  whip  grafting — say  from  an  inch  in  diameter  up- 
wards. In  this  case,  the  cion  is  cut  precisely  in  the  form 
of  a  wedge  (fig.  76).  The  part  cut  for  insertion  in  the 
stock  should  be  about  an  inch  or  an  inch  and  a  half  long, 
with  a  bud  (A]  at  the  shoulder,  where  it  is  to  rest  on  the 
stock  ;  this  bud  hastens  the  union  of  the  parts  in  the  same 
way  as  a  bud  at  the  base  of  a  cutting,  set  in  the  earth, 

s 


98 


GENERAL    PKIXCIPLES. 


A 


hastens  and  facilitates  the  emission  of  roots ;  the  outer 
edge  should  also  be  somewhat  thicker  than  the  inner.  A 
sloping  cut  (Ay  fig.  77)  is  then  made  on  the  stock,  an  inch 
and  a  half  long ;  another  cut  (.#)  is  made  across  this  cut, 
about  half  way  down,  as  at  point  JB/  the  stock  is  split  on 

one  side  of  the  pith 
by  laying  the  chisel 
on  the  horizontal 
surface,  and  strik- 
ing lightly  with  a 
mallet ;  the  split  is 
kept  open  with  the 
knife  or  chisel  until 
the  cion  is  insert- 
ed, with  the  thick 
side  out  (A,  fig. 
78).  Grafts  of  this 
kind  heal  much 
more  rapidly  than 
when  cut  at  once 
horizontally.  Very 
large  branches  are 
sawed  horizontally 
oif  at  the  point  to 
be  grafted  (A,  fig. 
79) ;  the  surface  is 
then  pared  smooth 

FigS.  76  tO  78.— CLEFT   GRAFTING.  ^fa      ^      knife,      B, 

Fig.  76,  cion,  with  sloping  cut  on  east  side,  like  a  gpHt   is   made  with 
wedge;  A,  bud  at  the  shoulder ;  5,  section  showing     £       ,  .  . 

shape  of  wedge.  Fig.  77,  the  stock  cut  and  split ;  A,  *ne  chisel,  nearly  in 
the  sloping  cut;  B,  horizontal  cut.  Fig.  78,  the  cion  the  Center,  and  tWO 
inserted  in  the  stock.  j  vi 

wedge-like  cions  in- 
serted (A,  B,  fig.  80) ;  if  both  grow,  and  they  are  after- 
wards too  close,  one  can  be  cut  away.  Another  mode  of 
grafting  such  large  stocks,  or  branches,  is  to  cut  them  off 
horizontally,  as  above,  and  pare  them  smooth  with  tjie 


PROPAGATION    BY    GRAFTING. 


99 


knife ;  then  cut  the  cion  on  one  side,  about  an  inch  and 
a  half  long,  making  a  shoulder  at  the  top ;  then  raise  the 
bark  from  the  stock  with  the  handle  of  a  budding-knife, 
and  insert  the  cion  between  the  bark  and  wood;  ap- 
ply the  composition  the  same  as  in  the  others,  all  over 
the  cut  part.  Two  or  three  cions  may  be  put  in  each. 
The  principal  objection  to  this  mode  is  that  the  grafts,  if 
they  grow  rapidly,  are  apt  to 
be  blown  off  before  they  have 
united  strongly  to  the  stock. 

The  great  points  to  observe 
always,  are — to  have  sharp  in- 
struments, that  will  make 
smooth,  clean  cuts;  to  have 
placed  in  perfect  contact  the 
inner  barks  of  cion  and  stock ; 
to  have  the  whole  cut  surface 
and  every  portion  of  the  split 
perfectly  covered  with  the  com- 
position, and  to  exclude  air  and 
water.  The  cion  should  always 
be  cut  close  to  a  bud  at  the  point 
(A,  fig.  76),  and  have  a  bud  at 
the  shoulder,  or  point  of  union 
with  the  stock  (A,  fig.  78). 

In  grafting  the  heads  of  large 
trees,  it  is  not  convenient  to  use 
the  composition  in  a  melted 
state,  to  be  put  on  with  the 
brush,  and  the  large  cut  surfaces 
cannot  well  be  covered  with  the 
cloth  ;  it  is,  therefore,  better  to  with  two  cions  inserted. 
use  the  composition  in  such  a  state  that  it  can  be  put  on 
with  the  hands.  A  very  small  quantity  of  brick-dust  may 
be  advantageously  mixed  with  it  when  intended  for  this 
purpose,  to  prevent  its  being  melted  by  the  sun. 


79.  80. 

Figs.  79  and  80. — CLEFT 

GRAFTING. 


100  GENERAL    PRINCIPLES. 

Double  "Working. — When  we  graft  or  bud  a  tree  already 
budded  or  grafted,  we  call  it  "  double- worked."  Certain 
very  important  advantages  are  gained  by  it.  Some  varie- 
ties are  of  such  feeble  growth,  that  it  is  impossible  to 
make  good  trees  of  them  in  the  ordinary  way  of  working 
on  common  stocks.  In  such  cases,  we  use  worked  trees 
of  strong  growing  sorts  as  stocks  for  them. 

Many  varieties  of  the  pear  do  not  unite  well  with  the 
quince  stock  ;  we  therefore  bud  other  varieties  of  strong 
growth,  that  do  succeed,  and  use  them  for  stocks  to  work 
the  others  on.  By  this  means  we  are  enabled  to  possess 
dwarf  trees  of  many  varieties,  that  we  could  not  other- 
wise have  in  that  form.  We  have  fruited  the  Dix  in  two 
years  by  double  working  on  the  quince,  when  otherwise 
it  would  have  taken  not  less  than  seven.  Some  varieties 
of  fruit  trees  are  much  better  than  others,  though  of  equal 
vigor,  to  graft  upon.  In  the  pear,  for  example,  we  find 
the  White  Doyenne  makes  a  good  stock  for  almost  all 
other  varieties — superior,  in  this  respect,  to  any  other  we 
have  ever  experimented  with.  A  great  many  improve- 
ments may  be  effected,  not  only  in  the  form  and  growth 
of  trees,  but  in  the  quality  of  the  fruit,  by  double  work- 
ing. Very  few  experiments  have  yet  been  made  on  the 
subject  in  this  country,  except  from  necessity ;  but  the 
general  interest  now  felt  on  all  matters  pertaining  to  fruit- 
tree  culture  cannot  fail  to  direct  attention  to  this  and 
similar  matters  that  have  heretofore,  in  a  great  measure, 
been  overlooked. 


CHAPTER    V. 

PRUNING— ITS    PRINCIPLES    AND    PRACTICE. 

Pruning  is  one  of  the  most  important  operations  con- 
nected with  the  management  of  trees.  From  the  removal 
of  the  seedling  plant  from  the  seed-bed,  through  all  its 


PRUNING.  101 

successive  stages  of  growth  and  maturity,  pruning,  to 
some  extent,  and  for  some  purpose,  is  necessary.  It  may, 
therefore,  be  reasonably  presumed  that  no  one  is  capable 
of  managing  trees  successfully,  and  especially  those  con- 
ducted under  certain  forms,  more  or  less  opposed  to 
nature,  without  knowing  well  how  to  prune^  what  to  prime , 
and  when  to  prune.  This  knowledge  can  only  be  acquired 
by  a  careful  study  of  the  structure  of  trees,  because  the 
pruning  applied  to  a  tree  must  (aside  from  the  general 
principles  on  which  all  pruning  depends)  be  adapted  to 
its  particular  habits  of  growth  and  mode  of  bearing  its 
fruit.  It  is  in  view  of  this  fact  that  the  chapter  on  the 
structure  and  mode  of  formation  of  the  different  parts  of 
fruit  trees  has  been  given  in  the  first  part  of  this  treatise, 
that  it  may  form  the  basis  of  this  branch  of  culture. 

The  idea  that  our  bright  American  sun  and  clear  at- 
mosphere render  pruning  an  almost  unnecessary  operation, 
has  not  only  been  inculcated  by  horticultural  writers,  but 
has  been  acted  upon  in  practice  to  such  an  extent,  that 
more  than  three-fourths  of  all  the  bearing  fruit  trees  in 
the  country  are  at  this  moment  either  lean,  misshaped 
skeletons,  or  the  heads  are  perfect  masses  of  wood,  unable 
to  yield  more  than  one  bushel  in  ten  of  fruit,  well  matur- 
ed, colored,  and  ripened. 

This  is  actually  the  case  even  in  what  may  be  called, 
in  comparison,  well-managed  orchards.  Look  at  the  dif- 
ference between  the  fruits  produced  on  young  and  old 
trees.  The  former  are  open,  the  fruits  are  exposed  to  the 
sun,  and,  therefore,  they  are  not  only  large  and  perfect, 
but  their  skins  are  smooth  and  brilliant,  as  though  they 
were  painted  and  polished.  This  ought  to  teach  us  some- 
thing about  pruning.  But  this  is  only  one  point.  We 
prune  one  portion  of  a  tree  to  reduce  its  vigor,  and  to 
favor  the  growth  of  another  and  weaker  part.  We  prune 
a  stem,  a  branch,  or  a  shoot,  to  produce  ramifications  of 
these  parts,  and  thus  change  or  modify  the  form  of  the 


102  GENERAL    PRINCIPLES. 

whole.  We  prime  to  induce  fruitfulness,  and  to  diminish 
it.  We  prune  in  the  growing  as  well  as  in  the  dormant 
season,  and,  finally,  we  prune  both  roots  and  branches. 
Thus  we  see  that  pruning  is  applied  to  all  parts  of  the 
tree,  at  all  seasons,  and  to  produce  the  most  opposite 
results. 

It  appears  necessary  to  treat  of  pruning,  under  each  of 
these  circumstances,  separately. 

1st.  Pruning  to  direct  the  Growth  from  one  part  of 
a  tree  to  another. — The  first  period  in  the  existence  and 
growth  of  a  tree  in  which  this  becomes  necessary,  is  in 
the  nursery.  Those  who  have  had  any  experience  in  tree 
culture,  have  observed  that  young  trees  in  nursery  rows 
have  a  tendency  to  increase  in  height  without  acquiring  a 
well-proportioned  increase  in  diameter.  In  certain  cases, 
this  want  of  proportion  becomes  so  great,  that  the  tree 
bends  under  its  own  weight,  and  hence  it  is  necessary  to 
resort  to  some  method  of  propping  it  up.  This  condition 
is  attributable  to  several  causes.  First,  the  absence  of  a 
sufficient  amount  of  air  and  light  around  the  stem,  to 
enable  the  leaves  on  it  to  fulfill  their  functions  properly. 
It  has  been  shown  that  the  formation  of  new  wood  de- 
pends upon  the  elaborating  process  carried  on  in  the 
leaves,  and  that  this  process  can  be  maintained  only  in  a 
free  exposure  to  the  sun  and  air.  This  being  the  case,  it 
is  obvious  that  any  part  of  the  tree  excluded  from  the 
action  of  these  agents  cannot  keep  pace  in  growth  with 
other  parts  to  which  they  have  full  access.  In  nursery 
rows,  as  trees  are  usually  planted,  the  stems,  after  the 
first  year's  growth,  are  to  a  great  extent  excluded  from 
the  light,  consequently  the  buds  and  leaves  on  them  can- 
not perform  their  parts  in  the  creation  of  new  wood.  The 
top  of  the  tree,  however,  is  fully  exposed,  and,  conse- 
quently, it  makes  a  rapid  growth  towards  the  free  air  and 
light.  When  this  is  continued  for  two  or  three  years  in 
succession,  the  tree  becomes  top-heavy;  the  quantity  of 


PRUNING.  103 

woody  fibre  at  the  top  is  as  great  as,  and  it  may  be 
greater  than,  at  the  bottom ;  and  hence  it  bends  under 
its  own  weight. 

2d.  The  tendency  of  the  sap  to  the  growing  points 
at  the  top  of  the  tree. — Growth  is  always  the  most  ac- 
tive and  vigorous  at  the  newly  formed  parts,  when  trees 
are  in  a  natural  condition.  The  young  buds  are  the  most 
excitable,  and  the  more  direct  their  communication  with 
the  roots,  the  more  rapid  will  be  their  growth.  Hence 
it  is  that  a  yearling  tree,  furnished  with  fifteen  to  twenty 
buds  or  more,  from  its  base  to  its  top,  frequently  produces 
a  shoot  from  its  terminal  bud  only,  and  seldom  more  than 
three  or  four  shoots  from  the  whole  number  of  buds,  and 
these  at  the  top.  This  natural  tendency,  and  the  exclu- 
sion of  light  from  the  stems  of  nursery  trees  by  their 
closeness  to  one  another,  are  the  chief  causes  of  weak 
and  crooked  trees,  to  counteract  which  we  resort  to 
pruning. 

In  "  heading  down  "  a  young  tree,  we  cut  away  one- 
third  or  one-half  of  the  length  of  the  stem,  and  this  removes 
the  actively  growing  parts.  The  sap  must  then  find  new 
channels.  Its  whole  force  is  directed  to  the  buds  that  were 
before  dormant ;  they  are  excited  into  growth,  and  produce 
new  wood  and  leaves  ;  these  send  down  new  layers  of 
woody  fibre  on  the  old  stem,  and  it  increases  rapidly  in 
diameter,  so  that  by  the  time  it  has  attained  its  former 
height,  the  base  is  two  or  three  times  as  thick  as  the  top, 
and  possesses  sufficient  strength  to  maintain  an  erect 
position. 

Maintaining  an  equal  Growth  among  the  branches  of  a 
tree  is  conducted  on  the  same  principle.  Branches  that 
are  more  favorably  placed  than  others,  appropriating  more 
than  their  due  proportion  of  the  sap,  and  growing  too  vig- 
orously, are  checked  by  removing  more  or  less  of  their 
growing  points ;  this  lessens  the  flow  of  sap  to  that 
point,  and  it  naturally  takes  its  course  to  the  growing 


104  GENERAL    PRINCIPLES. 

parts  of  the  weaker  branches  that  were  left  entire,  and 
thus  a  balance  is  restored. 

Pruning  to  renew  the  Growth  of  stunted  trees. — It 
frequently  happens  that  trees,  from  certain  causes,  become 
stunted,  and  almost  cease  to  grow,  and  every  part  as- 
sumes a  comparatively  dormant  condition.  In  such  cases 
they  are  cut  back,  the  number  of  their  buds  and  leaves  is 
reduced,  the  whole  force  of  the  sap  is  made  to  act  upon 
the  small  number  remaining,  and  enables  them  to  produce 
vigorous  young  shoots ;  these  send  down  new  woody 
matter  to  the  stem,  new  roots  are  also  formed,  and  thus 
the  whole  tree  is  renewed  and  invigorated. 

Pruning  to  induce  Fruitfulness. — This  is  conducted  on 
the  principle  that  whatever  is  favorable  to  rapid,  vigorous 
growth,  is  unfavorable  to  the  immediate  production  of 
fruit.  Hence,  the  object  in  view  must  be  to  check  growth 
and  impede  the  circulation  of  the  sap — just  the  opposite 
of  pruning  to  renew  growth.  The  only  period  at  which 
this  pruning  can  be  performed,  is  after  vegetation  has 
commenced.  If  a  tree  is  severely  pruned  immediately 
after  it  has  put  forth  its  leaves,  it  receives  such  a  check  as 
to  be  unable  to  produce  a  vigorous  growth  the  same 
season  ;  the  sap  is  impeded  in  its  circulation,  and  the  re- 
sult is  that  a  large  number  of  the  young  shoots  that 
\vould  have  made  vigorous  wood  branches,  had  they  not 
been  checked,  assume  the  character  of  fruit  spurs  and 
branches.  Pinching  is  the  principal  mode  of  pruning 
to  promote  fruitfulness,  and  will  be  explained  hereafter. 
It  depends  upon  the  above  principle  of  impeding  the 
circulation  of  the  sap  and  checking  growth. 

Pruning  to  diminish  Fruitfulness  is  conducted  on  the 
same  principle  as  that  to  renew  growth,  for  this,  in  fact, 
is  the  object. 

Pruning  the  Roots. — This  is  practiced  as  well  to  pro- 
mote fruitfulness  as  to  lessen  the  dimensions  of  trees. 
The  roots,  as  has  been  shown,  are  the  organs  that  absorb 


PRUNING.  105 

from  the  ground  the  principal  food  of  the  tree,  and  in  pro- 
portion to  their  number,  size,  and  activity,  other  things 
being  equal,  are  the  vigor  and  growth  of  the  stem  and 
branches.  Hence,  when  a  tree  is  deprived  of  a  certain 
portion  of  its  roots,  its  supply  of  food  from  the  soil  is 
lessened,  growth  is  checked,  the  sap  moves  slowly  in  its 
channels,  is  better  elaborated  in  the  leaves,  and  the  young 
branches  and  buds  begin  to  assume  a  fruitful  character. 

Roots  are  also  pruned  to  prevent  them  from  penetrat- 
ing too  deeply  into  the  earth,  and  to  induce  the  formation 
of  lateral  roots  near  the  surface,  similar  to  the  cutting 
back  of  a  stem  to  produce  lateral  branches  ;  the  principle 
is  the  same. 

Pruning  at  the  time  of  Transplanting. — This  is  per- 
formed, not  only  to  remove  bruised  and  broken  roots  and 
branches,  but  to  restore  the  tree  to  a  proper  balance.  As 
trees  are  ordinarily  taken  from  the  ground,  the  roots  are 
bruised,  broken,  or  mutilated,  to  a  greater  or  less  extent. 
This  obviously  destroys  the  natural  balance  or  proportion 
that  existed  between  the  roots  and  stem,  and  in  such  a 
condition  the  tree  is  unable  to  grow.  The  demand  upon 
the  roots  must  therefore  be  lessened  by  reducing  the  stem 
and  branches  in  length  or  number,  or  both ;  and  the  more 
the  roots  have  suffered,  the  greater  must  be  the  reduction 
of  the  stem  and  branches  to  bring  them  to  a  Correspond- 
ing condition. 

PRUNING    MECHANICALLY    CONSIDERED. 

Having  now  treated  of  the  principles  on  which  prun- 
ing depends,  it  remains  to  speak  of  its  mechanical  execu- 
tion ;  for  it  is  not  only  necessary  to  know  what  and  why, 
but  how  to  prune.  Theory  is  only  useful  as  it  serves  to 
guide  in  practice. 

1st.  Pruning  Stems  or  Branches. — The  great  point  to 
be  observed  in  making  incisions  on  the  stems  and  branches 
5* 


106 


GENERAL    PRINCIPLES. 


of  trees,  is  to  provide  for  the  speedy  and  perfect  healing 
of  the  wounds,  or  cut  surfaces.  In  removing  a  portion  of 
a  branch,  or  stem,  if  we  cut  between  two  joints,  and  thus 
leave  a  portion  of  wood  above  the  bud  intended  to  be 
cut  to,  as  in  fig.  81,  this  wood  dies,  and  we  have  the 
trouble  of  another  pruning  to  remove  it.  If  we  cut  too 
close  to  the  bud,  and  thus  remove  a  portion  of  the  wood 
with  which  it  is  connected,  as  in  fig.  82,  the  bud  will 
either  die,  or  disappoint  us  by  producing  a  very  feeble 
growth.  The  proper  way  is  to  take  the  branch  to  be 
operated  on  in  the  left  hand,  place  the  edge  of  the  knife 


Figs.  81  to  84.— PRUNING. 

Fig.  81,  cutting  too  far  above  the  bud.  Fig.  82.  cutting  too  close.  Fig.  83,  the 
cut  as  it  should  be.  Fig.  84,  removal  of  a  branch,  the  cross-line  indicating  the 
proper  place  for  the  cut. 

on  it,  opposite  the  lower  part  of  the  bud  to  be  'cut  to, 
and  then  make  a  firm,  quick,  smooth  draw-cut,  sloping 
upwards,  so  that  the  knife  will  come  out  on  a  level  with 
the  point  of  the  bud,  as  in  fig.  83.  In  soft-wooded,  pithy 
trees,  like  the  grape-vine,  for  example,  half  an  inch  of 
wood  ought  to  be  left  above  the  bud.  The  cut  should 
also  be  made  as  much  as  possible  on  the  lower  side  of  the 
branch  to  prevent  rain  from  lodging  in  the  center.  The 
position  of  the  bud  cut  to  is  also  worthy  of  consideration 
in  pruning,  to  produce  or  modify  certain  forms.  When 


PRUNING.  107 

we  wish  the  new  shoot  of  a  lateral  branch  to  take,  as 
much  as  possible,  an  upright  direction,  we  prune  to  a  bud 
on  the  inside  /  and  if  wo  wish  it  to  spread,  we  choose 
one  on  the  outside.  In  the  annual  suppression,  or  cutting 
back  of  young  trees,  to  form  a  stem  or  side  branches,  the 
bud  selected  to  form  the  leader  is  chosen  on  opposite 
sides  every  successive  year,  in  order  to  maintain  the  growth 
in  a  straight  line.  If  cut  every  year  to  a  bud  on  the 
same  side,  it  would,  in  two  or  three  seasons,  show  an 
inclination  to  that  side  injurious  to  the  symmetry  of  the 
tree. 

The  removal  of  large  Branches,  where  they  are  to  be 
entirely  separated  from  the  tree,  is  often  very  clumsily 
performed.  In  orchards,  it  is  not  at  all  uncommon  to  see 
them  chopped  oif  with  a  common  axe  ;  and  even  in  gar- 
dens there  seem  to  be  few  persons  who  either  know  how, 
or  take  the  proper  care  in  this  matter.  They  are  either 
cut  so  that  a  portion  of  the  base  of  the  branch  remains, 
and  sends  out  vigorous  shoots,  defeating  the  objects  of 
the  pruning,  or  they  are  cut  so  close  that  a  portion  of  the 
wood  of  the  main  branch  or  stem  is  taken  with  them, 
and  a  wound  made  that  years  are  required  to  heal  up. 
Both  these  extremes  ought  to  be  avoided. 

The  surface  of  the  cut  made  by  the  removal  of  a  branch 
should  in  no  case  be  larger  than  the  base  of  the  branch. 
Where  a  branch  is  united  to  another  or  to  the  main  stem, 
we  notice,  both  above  and  below  the  point  of  union,  a 
small  projection,  or  shoulder,  as  at  the  cross-line  in  fig. 
84.  The  knife  must  enter  jilst  below  that  shoulder,  and, 
by  being  drawn  upwards  in  a  straight  line,  the  base  is  so 
completely  removed  that  no  shoots  can  be  produced  there, 
and  yet  the  cut  surface  on  the  stem  is  no  larger  than  the 
base  of  the  branch.  When  the  saw  is  used,  the  surface 
of  the  cut  should  be  pared  smooth  with  the  knife,  both 
to  prevent  water  lodging  on  it,  and  to  facilitate  the  heal- 
ing of  the  wound. 


108  GENERAL    PRINCIPLES. 

2d.  Pruning  the  Hoots. — This  is  performed  by  opening 
a  trench  around  the  tree,  just  at  the  extremities  of  the 
roots  :  the  distance  from  the  tree  will,  therefore,  depend 
on  its  size,  and  the  spreading  character  of  the  roots. 
The  trench  should  be  the  width  of  a  common  garden 
spade,  and  deep  enough  to  admit  of  an  inspection  of  all 
the  roots  of  the  tree.  If  the  lateral  roots  are  to  be  short- 
ened, this  is  done  first.  The  knife  should  be  placed  on 
the  lower  side  of  the  root,  and  the  part  separated  with  a 
clean  draw-cut,  such  as  would  be  performed  on  a  branch. 
If  the  tree  has  vertical  or  tap  roots,  they  are  most 
easily  operated  on  with  a  sharp  spade,  prepared  and  kept 
for  the  purpose.  A  smart  stroke  with  such  a  spade,  in  as 
nearly  a  horizontal  direction  as  possible,  will  separate  a 
pretty  strong  root.  The  extent  to  which  root  pruning 
may  be  performed  depends  on  the  character  of  the  spe- 
cies, the  condition  of  the  tree  as  regards  growth,  and  the 
object  aimed  at.  Those  practising  it  for  the  first  time 
should  go  to  work  with  great  caution.  It  will  l^e  better 
to  operate  too  lightly  than  too  severely.  As  regards  the 
season,  it  may  be  performed  either  at  the  end  of  the  first 
growth,  in  July  or  August,  or  in  the  autumn  or  winter, 
when  vegetation  is  quite  suspended.  We  have  operated 
on  cherry  trees  with  complete  success  in  August,  in  a  dry 
time,  when  little  growth  was  going  on.  At  this  season, 
a  copious  watering  should  be  given  after  the  pruning  is 
performed. 

Implements  of  pruning,  and  the  mode  of  using  them, 
will  be  treated  of  in  the  chapter  on  implements,  to  be 
given  hereafter. 

The  Season  for  Pruning. — We  are  not  permitted  to  be 
very  definite  on  this  point.  The  climate,  the  nature  of 
the  species,  etc.,  control  the  period  of  pruning  to  a  great 
extent.  In  the  South,  what  we  term  the  winter  pruning 
— that  performed  during  the  dormant  season — may  be 
done  very  soon  after  the  fall  of  the  leaf.  In  the  North, 


PRUNING.  1 09 

it  is  deferred  to  February,  March,  and  even  April.  In 
Western  New  York,  we  prune  apples,  pears,  and  other 
hardy  fruits  any  time  that  we  have  leisure,  between  the 
fall  of  the  leaf  and  the  first  of  April. 

The  peach  we  prune  just  as  the  buds  begin  to  swell. 
The  fruit  and  leaf  buds  are  then  easily  distinguished  from 
one  another,  and  the  objects  of  the  pruning  are  accom- 
plished with  more  precision. 

Grapes  may  be  pruned  any  time  in  the  winter,  as  a 
portion  of  wood  is  always  left  above  the  bud ;  and  if  the 
wood  is  wanted  for  propagation,  it  should  be  cut  before 
the  season  of  severe  frosts  arrive,  as  the  buds  are  liable 
to  be  injured.  Gooseberries  and  currants,  also,  any  time 
in  winter.  The  stone  fruits  should  always  be  lightly 
primed,  because  severe  amputations  almost  invariably 
produce  the  gum.  Where  it  is  absolutely  necessary,  in 
the  spring,  the  wound  should  be  coated  with  grafting 
composition,  or  with  that  recommended  by  Mr.  Downing : 
"  Alcohoi,  with  sufficient  gum  shellac  dissolved  in  it  to 
make  a  liquid  of  the  consistence  of  paint,  to  be  put  on 
with  a  brush." 

This  excludes  air,  and  is  not  affected  by  changes  of 
weather. 

Pinching  is  a  sort  of  anticipated  pruning,  practiced 
upon  the  young  growing  shoots,  intended  to  promote  a 
uniform  circulation  of  the  sap,  and  thus  regulate  the 
growth,  and  also  to  induce  fruitfulness. 

1st.  To  regulate  the  Growth. — In  the  management  of 
trees,  this  is  an  operation  of  great  importance,  as  it  obvi- 
ates the  necessity  of  heavy  amputations  being  made  at 
the  winter  or  spring  pruning.  Instead  of  allowing  certain 
superfluous  or  misplaced  shoots  to  acquire  their  full  de- 
velopment at  the  expense  of  other  parts,  we  pinch  them 
early,  and  give  to  the  necessary  parts,  or  branches  of  the 
tree,  the  nutriment  which  they  would  have  appropriated 
if  allowed  to  remain.  In  this  way  we  are  able  to  obtain 


110 


GENERAL    PRINCIPLES. 


results  in  one  season  that  two  or  more  would  be  required 
for,  if  we  depended  wholly  on  the  winter  pruning.  We 
will  suppose,  for  an  example,  the  case  of  a  young  nursery 
tree  in  the  second  year,  intended  for  a  standard.  In  ordi- 
nary cases,  the  terminal  bud,  either  the  natural  one  or 


Fig.  85,  A— Fig.  85,  B.—  PRUNING  AND  PINCHING. 

Fig  85,  A,  head  of  a  young  tree  ;  b,  the  leader  ;  a,  a,  vigorous  shoots  below 
it,  that  ought  to  have  been  pinched.  Fig.  85,  B,  a  branch  of  the  pear,  twice  cut 
back,  with  the  lateral  shoots  pinched  ;  a,  a,  the  first  section  ;  c,  c,  c,  the  second  ; 
£»,  and  d,  d,  shoots  pinched  close  to  favor  the  leader  and  those  below  them. 

that  pruned  to,  is  developed  into  the  leading  shoot  or 
stem,  and  a  greater  or  less  number  of  buds  below  it  pro- 
duce branches  ;  and  it  frequently  happens  that  some  of 


PRUNING.  Ill 

these,  if  not  pinched,  acquire  so  much  vigor  as  to  injure 
the  leader,  and  produce  a  consequent  deformity  in  the 
tree.  Figure  85  (A)  represents  a  case  of  this  kind,  which 
is  very  common,  and  too  often  neglected.  The  shoots,  a, 
#,  ought  to  have  been  pinched  the  moment  they  began  to 
exhibit  a  disposition  to  outgrow  the  leader.  There  are 
other  cases,  still  worse  than  this,  familiar  to  all  tree 
growers ;  for  instance,  where  a  strong  shoot  is  produced 
on  the  middle  or  lower  part  of  the  stem,  attracting  an 
undue  proportion  of  the  sap,  thus  contracting  the  growth 
of  all  other  parts,  and  giving  the  young  tree  a  deformed 
character.  All  such  shoots  as  these  should  be  nipped 
early,  the  moment  their  character  is  apparent,  and  thus  a 
year's  growth,  nearly,  will  be  saved  to  the  tree,  and  its 
proper  form  and  proportions  be  preserved.  In  conducting 
young  trees  for  pyramids,  the  constant  and  careful  appli- 
cation of  pinching  is  absolutely  necessary,  for  in  them  we 
must  have  the  lower  branches  always  the  strongest  and 
longest,  and  it  is  only  by  operating  on  the  shoots,  in  their 
earliest  stages  of  growth,  that  we  can  fully  attain  this 
end;  for  the  strongest  shoots  do  not  always  grow  at  the 
desired  point,  but  by  timely  attention  they  are  perfectly 
within  our  control.  The  various  accidents  and  circum- 
stances to  which  young  trees  are  subject,  give  rise,  in  a 
multitude  of  cases,  to  an  unequal  distribution  of  the  sap 
in  their  different  parts,  and  this  produces,  to  a  greater  or 
less  extent,  deformity  of  growth.  This  at  once  shows  the 
necessity  for  pinching,  to  check  the  strong  and  favor  the 
weak. 

Pinching  to  promote  Fruitfulness. — Those  who  have 
never  practised  this,  or  observed  its  results,  may  have 
seen,  if  experienced  in  tree  growing,  that  a  shoot  of  which 
the  point  was  broken,  bruised,  or  otherwise  injured,  dur- 
ing the  growing  season,  frequently  becomes  a  fruit  branch 
either  during  the  same  or  the  following  season ;  and  this, 
especially  if  situated  in  the  interior  of  the  tree,  or  on  the 


GENERAL    PRINCIPLES. 

older  and  lower  parts  of  the  branches.  The  check  given 
to  the  extension  of  the  shoot  concentrates  the  sap  in  the 
part  remaining  ;  and,  unless  the  check  has  been  given 
very  early  in  the  season,  or  the  growth  is  very  vigorous  in 
the  tree,  so  that  the  buds  will  break  and  form  shoots,  they 
are  certain  to  prepare  for  the  production  of  fruit.  It  is 
on  this  principle  of  checking  the  growth  and  concentrat- 
ing the  sap  in  the  pinched  shoot,  that  pinching  to  induce 
fruitfulness  is  performed ;  and  its  efficiency  may  be  esti- 
mated from  the  fact,  that  trees  on  which  it  has  been  prac- 
tised, have  borne  fruit  four  or  five,  and  perhaps  seven 
years,  sooner  than  they  would  have  done  without  it. 

It  is  a  most  useful  operation  in  the  case  of  vigorous 
growing  and  tardy  bearing  sorts.  The  mode  of  performing 
it  is  to  pinch  off  the  end  of  the  shoot  with  the  finger  and 
thumb ;  if  a  small  portion  of  the  remaining  part  be  bruis- 
ed, no  matter,  it  offers  a  greater  check  than  if  a  clean  cut 
were  made,  as  in  pruning  to  a  bud ;  and  in  the  general 
winter  or  spring  pruning  which  follows,  the  bruised  parts 
can  be  cleanly  separated.  The  time  to  perform  it  depends 
wholly  on  circumstances.  If  the  object  be  to  regulate 
growth,  then  the  time  to  do  it  is  when  the  tendency  to 
undue  or  ill-proportioned  growth  is  first  observable,  and 
this  will  be  from  the'. time  the  young  shoots  are  two  to 
three  inches  long  and  upwards.  The  particular  season  of 
the  year  or  day  of  the  month  will,  of  course,  depend  upon 
the  earliness  or  lateness  of  the  season,  and  on  the  soil  and 
situation  as  well  as  on  the  habits  of  growth  of  the  species 
or  variety  to  be  operated  on.  The  true  way  is  to  be  al- 
ways on  the  watch.  If  the  object  be  to  induce  fruitful- 
ness,  the  length  which  the  shoots  should  attain  before 
being  pinched,  depends  upon  the  nature  or  mode  of  growth 
and  bearing  of  the  species,  and  will  be  more  definitely 
treated  hereafter,  under  the  head  of  "The  Pruning  of 
Trees;"  the  object  now  being  merely  to  indicate  general 
principles  and  modes  of  operating.  To  illustrate  this,  let 


PRUNING.  113 

us  suppose  the  lateral  branch  of  a  pear  tree,  (fig.  85,  B). 
This  was  cut  back  the  first  time  to  b,  and  below  that 
point  five  shoots  were  produced,  none  of  which  were  need- 
ed for  branches.  We  therefore  pinched  them  in  June, 
when  about  three  inches  long  or  thereabouts,  and  the 
result  is,  they  are  now  fruit  branches.  The  same  branch 
was  cut  back  the  second  time  to  d,  d,  and  on  that  section 
seven  shoots  were  produced  that  were  not  needed  in  the 
form  of  the  tree,  and  were  consequently  pinched,  and  will 
become  fruit  branches.  At  the  points  b,  and  d,  d,  are 
small  spurs,  the  base  of  shoots  that  have  been  pinched 
close  to  favor  the  growth  of  the  leader,  as  well  as  the 
development  of  the  shoots  below.  Without  pinching,  it 
would  have  been  impossible  to  obtain  such  results  in  this 
branch  in  the  same  time. 

M.  Dubreuil,  formerly  Professor  of  Arboriculture  in  the 
Garden  of  Plants  at  Rouen,  in  France,  sums  up  the  gen- 
eral principles  of  pruning  as  follows.  (I  may  remark  here, 
that  in  1849  I  visited  the  Rouen  garden,  and  found  M. 
DubreuiPs  theory  and  practice  beautifully  illustrated  on 
the  trees  in  his  charge.  My  visit  was  made  at  the  time 
of  his  practical  lectures,  and  I  was  able  to  examine  the 
whole  with  the  most  satisfactory  minuteness.  The  trees 
there,  under  all  forms,  and  embracing'  all  the  hardy  spe- 
cies of  fruits,  were  the  best  that  I  found  anywhere,  not 
even  excepting  the  much  admired  and  famous  pyramidal 
pear  trees  of  M.  Cappe,  at  Paris.  They  were  not  only 
perfect  in  form,  but,  as  regards  vigor  and  fruitfulness,  in 
the  most  admirable  condition.)  He  says  : 

"  The  theory  of  the  pruning  of  fruit  trees  rests  on  the 
following  six  general  principles : 

"  1.  The  vigor  of  a  tree,  subjected  to  pruning,  depends, 
in  a  great  measure,  on  the  equal  distribution  of  sap  in  all 
its  branches. 

"  In  fruit  trees  abandoned  to  themselves,  the  sap  is 
equally  distributed  in  the  different  parts  without  any  other 


114  GENERAL   PRINCIPLES. 

aid  than  nature,  because  the  tree  assumes  the  form  most 
in  harmony  with  the  natural  tendency  of  the  sap.* 

"  But  in  those  submitted  to  pruning,  it  is  different ;  the 
forms  imposed  on  them,  such  as  espalier,  pyramid,  vase, 
etc.,  change  more  or  less  the  normal  direction  of  the  sap, 
and  prevent  it  from  taking  the  form  proper  to  its  species. 
Thus  nearly  all  the  forms  given  to  trees  require  the  devel- 
opment of  ramifications  more  or  less  numerous,  and  of 
greater  or  less  dimensions  at  the  base  of  the  stem.  And, 
as  the  sap  tends  by  preference  towards  the  summit  of  the 
tree,  it  happens  that,  unless  great  care  be  taken,  the 
branches  at  the  base  become  feeble,  and  finally  dry  up, 
and  the  form  intended  to  be  obtained  disappears,  to  be 
replaced  by  the  natural  form,  that  is,  a  stem  or  a  trunk 
with  a  branching  head.  It  is  then  indispensable,  if  we 
wish  to  preserve  the  form  we  impose  upon  trees,  to  em- 
ploy certain  means,  by  the  aid  of  which  the  natural  direc- 
tion of  the  sap  can  be  changed  and  directed  towards  the 
points  where  we  wish  to  obtain  the  most  vigorous  growth. 
To  do  this  we  must  arrest  vegetation  in  the  parts  to  which 
the  sap  is  carried  in  too  great  abundance,  and  on  the  con- 
trary favor  the  parts  that  do  not  receive  enough.  To  ac- 
complish this  the  following  means  must  be  successively 
employed. 

"  (1.)  Prune  the  branches  of  the  most  vigorous  parts  very 
short,  and  those  of  the  weak  parts  long.  We  know  that  the 
sap  is  attracted  by  the  leaves.  The  removal  of  a  large 
number  of  wood-buds  from  the  vigorous  parts,  deprives 
these  parts  of  the  leaves  which  these  buds  would  have  pro- 
duced ;  consequently  the  sap  is  attracted  there  in  less 
quantities,  and  the  growth  thereby  diminished.  The  feeble 

*  This  is  not  true  in  all  cases.  Peach  trees,  we  know,  in  our  climate,  left  to 
themselves,  exhibit  a  very  striking  example  of  the  unequal  distribution  of  the 
sap.  The  ends  of  the  branches  attract  nearly  the  whole,  leaving  the  lateral  shoots 
and  lower  parts  to  die  out.  In  other  species,  similar  instances  might  be  quoted, 
and  as  a  general  thing,  the  proposition  is  unsound,  except  in  a  comparative 
sense. 


PRUNING.  115 

parts  being  pruned  long,  present  a  great  number  of  buds, 
which  produce  a  large  surface  of  leaves,  and  these  attract 
the  sap  and  acquire  a  vigorous  growth.  This  principle 
holds  good  in  all  trees,  under  whatever  form  they  may  be 
conducted. 

"  (2.)  Leave  a  large  quantity  of  fruit  on  the  strong  part, 
and  remove  the  whole,  or  greater  part\  from  the  feeble.  We 
know  already  that  the  fruit  has  the  property  of  attracting 
to  it  the  sap  from  the  roots,  and  of  employing  it  entirely 
to  its  own  growth.  The  necessary  result  of  this  is,  Avhat  we 
are  about  to  point  out,  viz.,  that  all  the  sap  which  arrives 
in  the  strong  parts,  will  be  absorbed  by  the  fruits,  and  the 
wood  there,  in  consequence,  will  make  but  little  growth; 
while  on  the  feeble  part,  deprived  of  fruits,  the  sap  will 
all  be  appropriated  by  the  growing  parts,  and  they  will 
increase  in  size  and  strength. 

"  (3.)  Send  the  strong  parts,  and  Jceep  the  weak  erect. 
The  more  erect  the  branches  and  stem  are,  the  greater  will 
be  the  flow  of  sap  to  the  growing  parts  ;  hence,  the  feeble 
parts  being  erect,  attract  much  more  sap  than  the  strong 
parts  inclined,  and,  consequently,  make  a  more  vigorous 
growth  and  soon  recover  their  balance.  This  remedy  is 
more  especially  applied  to  espalier  trees. 

"  (4.)  Remove  from  the  vigorous  parts  the  superfluous 
shoots  as  early  in  the  season  as  possible,  and  from  the 
feeble  parts  as  late  as  possible.  The  fewer  the  number  of 
young  shoots  there  are  on  a  branch,  the  fewer  there  are 
of  leaves,  and  consequently  the  less  is  the  sap  attracted 
there.  Hence,  in  leaving  the  young  shoots  on  the  feeble 
part,  their  leaves  attract  the  sap  there,  and  induce  a  vigor- 
ous growth. 

u  (5.)  Pinch  early  the  soft  extremities  of  the  shoots  on  the 
vigorous  parts,  and  as  late  as  possible  on  the  feeble  parts, 
excepting  always  any  shoots  which  may  be  too  vigorous 
for  their  position.  By  thus  pinching  early,  the  strong 
part,  the  flow  of  sap  to  that  point  is  checked,  and  natural- 


116  GENERAL    PRINCIPLES. 

ly  turns  to  the  growing  parts  that  have  not  been  pinch- 
ed ;  this  remedy  is  applicable  to  trees  in  all  forms. 

"  (6.)  Lay  in  the  strong  shoots  on  the  trellis  early,  and 
leave  the  feeble  parts  loose  as  long  as  possible.  Laying  in 
the  strong  parts  obstructs  the  circulation  of  the  sap  in 
them,  and  consequently  favors  the  weak  parts  that  are 
loose.  This  is  only  applicable  to  espaliers. 

u  (7.)  In  espalier  trees,  giving  the  feeble  parts  the  benefit 
of  the  light  and  confining  the  strong  parts  more  in  the 
shade,  restores  a  balance,  for  light  is  the  agent  which  en- 
ables leaves  to  perform  their  functions  and  vtheir  action  on 
the  roots,  and  the  parts  receiving  the  greatest  proportion 
of  it  acquire  the  most  vigorous  development. 

"2.  The  sap  acts  with  greater  force  and  produces  more 
vigorous  growth  on  a  branch  or  shoot  pruned  short  than 
on  one  pruned  long.  This  is  easily  explained.  The 
sap,  acting  on  two  buds,  must  evidently  produce  a  great- 
er development  of  wood  on  them  than  if  it  were  divided 
between  fifteen  or  twenty  buds. 

"  It  follows  from  this,  that  if  we  wish  to  obtain  wood 
branches,  we  prune  short,  for  vigorous  shoots  produce 
few  fruit-buds.  On  the  contrary,  if  we  wish  to  obtain 
fruit  branches,  we  prune  long,  because  the  most  slender 
or  feeble  shoots  are  the  most  disposed  to  fruit. 

"  Another  application  of  this  principle  is  to  prune  short, 
for  a  year  or  two,  such  trees  or  parts  as  have  been  enfee- 
bled by  overbearing.  (This  principle  deserves  especial 
attention,  as  its  application  is  of  great  importance.) 

"  3.  The  sap  tending  always  to  the  extremities  of  the 
shoots  causes  the  terminal  bud  to  push  with  greater  vigor 
than  the  laterals.  According  to  this  principle,  when  we 
wish  a  prolongment  of  a  stem  or  branch,  we  should  prune 
to  a  vigorous  wood-bud,  and  leave  no  production  that  can 
interfere  with  the  action  of  the  sap  on  it. 

"  4.  The  more  the  sap  is  obstructed  in  its  circulation, 
the  more  likely  it  will  be  to  produce  fruit-buds.  This 


PRUNING.  117 

principle  is  founded  on  a  fact  to  which  we  have  already 
had  occasion  to  refer,  viz.,  that  the  sap  circulating  slowly 
is  subjected  to  a  more  complete  elaboration  in  the  tissues 
of  the  tree,  and  becomes  better  adapted  to  the  formation 
of  fruit-buds. 

"  This  principle  can  be  applied  to  produce  the  following 
results  :  When  we  wish  to  produce  fruit-buds  on  a  branch, 
we  prevent  a  free  circulation  of  the  sap  by  bending  the 
branches,  or  by  making  annular  or  circular  incisions  on 
it ;  and,  on  the  contrary,  when  we  wish  to  change  a  fruit 
branch  into  a  wood  branch,  we  give  it  a  vertical  position, 
or  prune  it  to  two  or  three  buds,  on  which  we  concentrate 
the  action  of  the  sap,  and  thus  induce  their  vigorous  de- 
velopment. 

"  5.  The  leaves  serve  to  prepare  the  sap  absorbed  by  the 
roots  for  the  nourishment  of  the  tree,  and  aid  the  forma- 
tion of  buds  on  the  shoots.  All  trees,  therefore,  deprived 
of  their  leaves,  are  liable  to  perish.  This  principle  shows 
how  dangerous  it  is  to  remove  a  large  quantity  of  leaves 
from  trees  under  the  pretext  of  aiding  the  growth  or 
ripening  of  fruits,  for  the  leaves  are  the  nourishing  organs, 
and  the  trees  deprived  of  them  cannot  continue  to  grow, 
neither  can  the  fruit ;  and  the  branches  so  stripped  will 
have  feeble,  ill-formed  buds,  which  will,  the  following 
year,  produce  a  weak  and  sickly  growth. 

"  6.  Where  the  buds  of  any  shoot  or  branch  do  not  de- 
velop before  the  age  of  two  years,  they  can  only  be  forced 
into  activity  by  a  very  close  pruning,  and  in  some  cases, 
as  the  peach,  this  even  will  often  fail.  This  last  principle 
shows  the  importance  of  pruning  the  main  branches  of 
espaliers  especially,  so  as  to  insure  the  development  of  the 
buds  of  their  successive  sections,  and  to  preserve  well  the 
side  shoots  thus  produced,  for  without  this,  the  interior 
of  the  tree  will  become  naked  and  unproductive,  and  a 
remedy  will  be  very  difficult." 

If  these  principles  and  practices  of  pruning  be  carefully 


118  GENERAL    PRINCIPLES. 

studied  in  connection  with  the  habits  of  growth  and  bear- 
ing of  the  different  fruit  trees,  pruning  will  be  compara- 
tively an  easy  matter.  The  mode  of  obtaining  any  par- 
ticular form  or  character  cannot  fail  to  be  perfectly  plain 
and  simple ;  yet  no  one  need  hope  to  accomplish,  in  all 
things,  the  precise  results  aimed  at,  for  even  the  most 
skillful  operator  is  sometimes  disappointed ;  but  those  who 
give  constant  attention  to  their  trees  will  always  discover 
a  failure  in  time  to  apply  a  remedy. 

I  insist  upon  it,  because  I  have  been  taught  it  by  most 
abundant  experience,  that  the  most  unremitting  watch- 
fulness is  necessary  in  conducting  trees  in  particular  forms. 
It  is  not,  by  any  means,  labor  that  is  required,  but  attention 
that  the  most  delicate  hand  can  perform.  Fifteen  or  twenty 
minutes  at  a  time,  say  three  times  a  week  during  active 
growth,  will  be  sufficient  to  examine  every  shoot  on  a 
moderate  collection  of  garden  trees  ;  for  the  eye  very  soon 
becomes  trained  so  well  to  the  work,  that  a  glance  at  a 
tree  will  detect  the  parts  that  are  either  too  strong  or  too 
weak,  or  that  in  any  way  require  attention.  This  is  one 
of  the  most  interesting  features  in  the  management  of 
garden  trees.  We  are  never  allowed  to  forget  them. 
From  day  to  day  they  require  some  attention,  and  offer 
some  new  point  of  interest  that  attracts  us  to  them,  and 
augments  our  solicitude  for  their  prosperity,  until  it  actu- 
ally grows  into  enthusiasm. 


II. 


THE    NURSERY 


119 


THE     NURSERY. 

CHAPTER    I. 

SECTION   1. — SOIL,  SITUATION,  ETC. 

It  is  not  a  part  of  the  design  of  this  treatise  to  give 
anything  like  a  full  exposition  of  nursery  operations,  for 
this  would,  in  itself,  be  a  subject  sufficiently  extensive  to 
form  a  volume ;  but  as  all  fruit  growers  should  possess  at 
least  some  knowledge  of  nursery  management,  it  seems 
quite  necessary  that  the  more  important  points  should  be 
noticed. 

1st.  The  Soil,  as  to  Dryness. — For  a  fruit-tree  nursery 
the  soil  must  be  perfectly  dry,  both  above  and  below.  In 
damp,  springy  soils,  or  where  the  subsoil  is  so  compact  as 
not  to  admit  of  the  surface  water  passing  off  immediately, 
trees  do  not  thrive ;  the  roots  are  destitute  of  fibres,  the 
wood  is  watery  and  delicate,  and  where  frosts  are  severe, 
the  trees  are  cast  out  of  the  ground  by  the  expansion  of 
the  water  with  which  the  soil  is  filled.  We  have  known 
of  a  single  instance  in  which  several  thousand  dollars 
were  lost  by  planting  a  pear  nursery  on  a  soil  imperfectly 
drained.  The  plants  grew  finely  the  first  season,  were 
budded,  the  buds  had  taken,  and  in  the  autumn  all  looked 
prosperous ;  but  the  autumn  rains  filled  the  soil  with  water ; 
the  situation  was  low  and  level,  and  the  subsoil  compact, 
BO  that  the  water  could  not  possibly  get  away.  The 
consequence  was,  the  roots  decayed,  the  plants  were  cast 
out  of  the  ground,  and  the  injury  was  so  great  and  so 
general  that  the  whole  plantation  had  to  be  taken  up, 
This  ground  was  then  thoroughly  drained,  and  is  now  as 
good  a  pear  soil  as  can  be  found.  This  single  instance 
illustrates  the  importance  of  a  dry  soil,  as  well  as  twenty 
would.  We  frequently  find  that,  in  the  same  row  of  trees, 
if  there  happens  to  be  a  low,  damp  spot,  the  trees  in  it 
6  121 


122  THE    NURSERY. 

have  no  fibrous  roots,  and  are  altogether  inferior  to  those 
on  the  adjacent  dry  ground. 

2d.  Depth. — As  a  general  thing,-  the  soil  of  a  nursery 
should  be  a  foot  to  eighteen  inches  deep ;  but  all  trees  do 
not  require  the  same  depth.  Those  (such  as  the  pear) 
whose  roots  descend  more  than  they  spread,  require  the 
deepest  soil.  The  best  quality  of  nursery  trees  are  grown 
on  common  farming  land,  twice  plowed  with  the  common 
and  subsoil  plows,  one  following  the  other,  as  described 
in  the  chapter  on  soils.  This  gives  depth  enough  for  all 
ordinary  purposes. 

3d.  Texture. — A  soil  of  medium  texture,  between  the 
heavy  and  the  light,  is,  on  the  whole,  the  most  advan- 
tageous, as  being  the  best  adapted  to  general  purposes. 
A  good  friable  loam,. with  a  gravelly  subsoil,  or  a  mixture 
of  sand,  gravel,  and  clay,  that  will  allow  water  to  pass 
off  freely,  will  be  found  suitable  for  almost  any  species  ; 
and  one  great  advantage  of  such  a  soil  is,  that  it  admits 
of  rotation  in  crops. 

4th.  Quality. — For  the  growth  of  young  fruit  trees,  a 
soil  should  be  in  such  a  condition  as  to  furnish  a  sufficient 
supply  of  nutriment  to  insure  a  vigorous  and  robust 
growth ;  but  it  may  be  too  rich,  and  produce  rank  wood 
that  will  not  mature  properly,  and  be  unable  to  withstand 
the  change  of  climate  or  soil  consequent  upon  transplant- 
ing. Where  manures  are  used,  they  should  be  well  de- 
composed ;  fresh,  warm  manures  excite  trees  into  a  very 
rapid  growth,  but  the  wood  is  watery  and  feeble.  A  dry 
soil,  of  moderate  richness,  produces  hardy  trees ;  their 
wood  is  firm,  the  buds  plump  and  close  together,  and  the 
parts  well  proportioned. 

5th.  Laying  out. — Where  the  nursery  is  of  considerable 
extent,  the  ground  should  be  laid  out  and  arranged  in 
square  or  rectangular  plots  of  convenient  size,  and  be  in- 
tersected with  walks.  One  portion  should  be  set  apart 
for  the  propagation  of  stocks  from  layers,  another  for 


SOIL,    ETC.  123 

cuttings,  another  for  seeds,  etc.  In  setting  apart  ground 
for  the  different  kinds  of  trees,  if  there  be  a  choice,  the 
pear  should  have  the  deepest  and  best,  the  plum  the  most 
compact  or  clayey,  the  peach,  apricot,  cherry,  etc.,  the 
lightest  and  driest. 

6th.  Exposure. — Nursery  ground  for  fruit  trees  should  be 
well  elevated,  but  not  fully  exposed  to  the  prevailing  high 
winds,  as  the  young  trees  are  apt  to  be  broken  off  during 
the  first  year's  growth  if  not  kept  well  tied  up  to  stakes. 
In  our  section,  we  find  it  very  advantageous  to  have  some 
protection  from  the  west  winds  especially,  though  we 
sometimes  have  a  south  wind  quite  destructive  to  the 
young  buds  in  exposed  places.  Situations  into  which  the 
snow  is  liable  to  drift  should  be  avoided,  in  sections 
where  heavy  snow-storms  prevail,  for  sometimes  vast 
quantities  of  trees  are  broken  down  in  corners  of  fences 
and  sheltered  situations  where  the  snow  accumulates  in 
heavy  drifts. 

7th.  Hotation  or  Succession  of  Crops. — This  is  quite  as 
important  in  the  management  of  the  nursery  as  of  the 
farm.  Not  more  than  one  crop  of  one  species  should  be 
planted  on  the  same  ground,  and  those  of  the  most  oppo- 
site character  should  follow  one  another.  Where  one 
species  is  grown  on  the  same  ground  for  eight  or  ten 
years,  it  is  found  by  experience  that  even  the  most  liberal 
manuring  fails  to  produce  such  fine,  sound,  healthy,  and 
vigorous  trees  as  new  ground  without  manure.  Where 
land  is  scarce,  and  it  is  necessary  to  use  the  same  ground 
for  the  same  kind  of  trees,  it  should  at  least  be  allowed 
one,  but  much  better,  two  or  three  seasons'  rest,  and  be 
well  supplied  with  such  material  as  the  trees  to  be  grown 
in  it  require,  in  the  largest  quantities,  or  in  which  the  soil 
is  found  to  be  most  deficient.  Our  own  practice  is  to  seed 
down  with  clover,  and  break  up  the  second  or  third  year; 
giving  before  plowing  a  dressing  of  manure,  adapted  in 
quantity  and  quality  to  the  wants  of  the  soil. 


THE  NURSERY. 
SECTION  2. — DESCRIPTION  AND  PROPAGATION  OF  STOCKS. 

This  branch  of  the  subject  is  of  such  importance,  and 
involves  so  many  considerations,  that  it  seems  to  be  more 
methodical  to  treat  it  separately  from  subsequent  opera- 
tions. 

1st.  Stocks  for  the  Apple. — The  principal  stocks  in  use 
for  the  apple  are  the  common  seedling,  or  free  stock,  the 
Douc  in,  and  the  Paradise. 

Seedlings,  or  free  stocks,  are  ordinarily  produced  from 
seeds  taken  promiscuously  from  the  cider-mill  in  the 
autumn. 

Preparing  the  Seed. — The  cakes  of  pressed  pomace  are 
broken  up,  and  the  coarser  materials,  straw,  etc.,  sepa- 
rated from  it  by  means  of  a  coarse  sieve  ;  the  sifted  pomace 
is  then  put  into  large  tubs,  and  subjected  to  repeated 
washings  until  clean.  The  clean,  plump  seeds  fall  to  the 
bottom,  and  the  pomace  and  light,  poor  seeds  are  carried 
off  in  the  washings.  When  fruits  have  been  selected  for 
the  seeds,  they  are  placed  in  heaps  until  fermentation  and 
decay  have  reduced  the  flesh  to  a  soft,  pulpy  state,  when 
they  are  washed  in  tubs,  in  the  same  manner  as  pomace. 

Saving  the  Seed. — When  the  seed  is  washed  out  as 
above,  it  must  be  spread  thinly  on  boards,  and  repeatedly 
turned  over  until  perfectly  dry,  when  it  is  put  away  in 
boxes,  mixed  with  sand  containing  a  slight  degree  of 
moisture.  The  boxes  should  be  well  secured  against  ver- 
min, and  be  kept  in  a  dry,  cool  place  until  the  time  of 
planting. 

Season  and  Mode  of  Planting. — If  the  ground  be  in 
readiness,  and  perfectly  dry  and  friable,  the  best  time  is 
the  fall,  as  soon  as  the  seeds  are  cleaned.  At  this  season 
the  pomace,  seeds  and  all,  as  it  conies  from  the  press,  may 
be  planted  without  any  washing.  It  should  be  broken 
up  fine,  so  that  it  may  be  evenly  distributed  in  the  seed 
bed.  The  difficulty  of  doing  this,  is  a  serious  objection  to 


PROPAGATION    OP    STOCKS.  125 

4 

this  mode.  By  taking  some  pains  in  the  sowing,  we  raise 
as  good  stocks  in  this  as  in  any  other  way;  the  decayed 
pulp  contributes  considerable  nutriment  to  the  young 
plants  in  their  earliest  stage  of  growth. 

When  deferred  until  spring,  it  should  be  done  at  the 
earliest  moment  that  the  condition  of  the  ground  will  ad- 
mit. When  the  ground  is  ready,  a  line  is  stretched  along 
one  side  of  the  plot,  and  a  drill  opened  with  a  hoe  about 
eight  or  ten  inches  wide,  and  three  deep ;  the  seeds  are 
then  dropped,  and  the  fine  earth  drawn  over  them  with 
the  hoe  as  regularly  as  possible,  covering  them  about  three 
inches  deep.  If  some  leaf  mould  from  the  woods,  or  old 
decomposed  manure,  in  a  fit  state  for  spreading,  could  be 
had,  nnd  a  covering  of  it  an  inch  in  depth  spread  on  the 
top  of  the  drills,  it  would  prevent  the  surface  from  baking 
or  cracking,  and  allow  the  plants  to  come  up  with  greater 
strength  and  regularity.  Whatever  depth  be  used  of 
such  a  covering,  it  should  be  deducted  from  the  covering 
of  common  earth. 

Distance  to  Plant. — When  large  quantities  are  raised, 
the  drills  should  be  three  feet  apart,  to  admit  of  the  culti- 
vator passing  between  them ;  for  the  ground  should  be 
kept  perfectly  clean  and  mellow  around  seedlings  the 
whole  season. 

After  Management. — It  is  of  great  importance  that  they 
be  not  in  any  way  stunted;  neither  in  first  coming  through 
the  soil  by  a  hard  surface,  nor  afterwards  by  weeds  and 
lack  of  culture ;  seedlings,  stunted  during  the  early  stages 
of  their  growth,  never  make  vigorous,  healthy  stocks ;  and, 
indeed,  should  never  be  planted.  When  they  appear 
above  the  surface,  and  are  too  close  together,  they  should, 
as  soon  as  possible,  be  thinned  out  to  regular  distances ; 
for,  when  grown  up  in  dense  masses,  they  are  generally 
feeble  and  worthless.  One  hundred  good,  vigorous  stocks 
are  worth  five  hundred  poor  ones.  It  is  very  common  to 
see  seedlings  of  one  year  larger  than  those  of  two  years, 


126  THE    NURSERY. 


* 


under  different  management ;  and,  in  such  a  case,  the  year- 
lings are  worth  twice  as  much  as  the  others.  A  very  good 
plan  is  to  thin  out  all  the  weakest  plants  when  about  four 
or  five  inches  high,  leaving  only  those  of  vigorous  habit 
and  large  foliage.  The  prevailing  error  in  growing  apple 
seedlings,  and,  I  may  add,  all  seedlings,  is  that  of  having 
them  too  close  together — usually  three  or  four  times  as 
many  on  the  ground  as  there  should  be.  Give  them 
plenty  of  room,  good  soil,  and  clean  culture,  and  you  will 
have  sfood  stocks. 

The  Doucin  is  a  distinct  species  of  apple.  The  tree  is 
of  medium  size,  bears  small,  sweet  fruit,  and  reproduces 
itself  from  seed.  It  is  used  for  stocks  for  apple  trees  of 
medium  size,  pyramids,  or  dwarf  standards  for  gardens. 
It  is  propagated  almost  exclusively  from  layers.  (See  fig. 
63.)  The  plants  to  be  propagated  from  are  planted  in  a 
rich,  deep,  friable  soil,  and  cut  back  to  within  four  to  six 
inches  of  the  collar;  the  buds,  on  the  part  below  the  cut, 
will,  during  the  next  season,  produce  strong  shoots  ;  the 
following  spring  the  earth  is  drawn  up  around  each  plant 
in  the  form  of  a  mound,  so  that  the  whole  of  the  stem  and 
the  base  of  all  the  shoots  will  be  covered  at  least  three 
inches  deep ;  during  that  season,  all  the  shoots  will  pro- 
duce roots,  and  should  be  separated  from  the  mother 
plant,  or  stool,  as  such  plants  are  termed,  in  the  fall.  If 
left  on  until  spring,  the  frost  would  be  likely  to  injure  them. 
The  stools  are  then  dressed,  the  soil  around  them  is  spaded 
up  and  enriched  with  well-decayed  manure ;  and  the  fol- 
lowing season  another  crop  of  shoots  is  produced,  much 
more  numerous  than  the  first,  to  be  treated  in  the  same 
way.  Every  year  these  stool  plants  increase  in  size  and 
in  the  quantity  of  their  productions,  if  well  treated. 
Another  course,  but  not  so  good,  is  frequently  pursued 
when  stocks  are  scarce.  The  shoots  are  layered  by  bend- 
ing down,  as  described  in  layering,  the  first  season  of  their 
growth  in  July,  and  may  be  sufficiently  rooted  in  the  fall 


PROPAGATION    OF    STOCKS.  127 

to  be  transferred  to  nursery  rows  in  the  spring  follow- 
ing ;  a  year  is  thus  saved,  but  the  stocks  are,  of  course, 
much  inferior.  If  earthed  up  in  midsummer,  they  will  be 
partially  rooted  in  the  autumn,  too,  but  not  so  well  as  if 
bent  down;  for  the  bending  has  a  tendency  to  stop  the 
sap  at  the  point  fastened  to  the  ground,  and  hastens  the 
formation  of  roots.  This  stock  may  also  be  propagated 
from  root  cuttings. 

The  Paradise. — This,  also,  is  a  distinct  species  of  apple. 
The  tree  is  of  very  small  size,  never  attaining  over  three 
to  four  feet  in  height.  It  is  used  for  stocks  for  dwarf 
trees  or  bushes  that  occupy  but  a  small  space  in  the  gar- 
den. It  is  propagated  in  precisely  the  same  manner  as 
that  described  for  the  Doucin. 

2d.  Stocks  for  the  Pear. — The  pear  seedling  and  the 
quince  are  the  only  two  stocks  on  which  the  pear  can  be 
advantageously  worked  to  any  considerable  extent.  The 
Mountain  Ash  and  the  Thorn  are  occasionally  used  for 
special  purposes  only. 

Pear  Seedlings. — The  seeds  are  obtained  by  collecting 
such  fruits  as  can  be  had  containing  perfect  seeds.  Nearly 
all  the  seeds  used  \\\  this  country,  of  late  years,  have  been 
imported  from  Europe.  Great  care  should  be  taken  to 
gather  the  fruits  of  hardy,  healthy,  vigorous  trees  only, 
and  the  seeds  should  be  full  and  plump.  The  seeds  are 
separated  and  washed,  as  described  for  apples.  They  arc 
also  saved  and  planted  in  a  manner  similar  in  all  respects ; 
but,  in  this  country,  it  is  a  much  more  difficult  matter  to 
succeed  with  pear  seedlings  than  with  the  apple.  This 
difficulty  is  owing  chiefly  to  a  species  of  fungus,  called 
"  leaf-blight,"  that  attacks  the  leaves  of  the  young  plants, 
very  often  before  they  have  completed  their  first  season's 
growth.  To  obviate  the  difficulty  which  this  malady  pre- 
sents, a  vigorous  growth  should  be  obtained  early  in  the 
season.  New  soil,  or  that  in  which  trees  have  not  be- 
fore been  grown,  should  be  selected — an  old  pasture  is  the 


128  THE    NURSERY. 

best.  The  autumn  before  planting  it  should  be  trenched, 
or  subsoil-plowed,  to  the  depth  of  two  feet,  for  the  pear 
has  long  tap  roots,  and  liberally  enriched  with  a  compost 
of  stable  manure,  leaf  mould,  or  muck,  and  wood-ashes, 
in  about  equal  parts ;  four  inches  deep  of  this,  spread 
over  the  surface  before  plowing,  will  be  sufficient  for  any 
ordinary  soil.  Lime  should  also  be  given  liberally,  unless 
the  soil  be  naturally  and  strongly  calcareous.  A  soil  pre- 
pared thus  in  the  fall,  will  require  another  plowing  or 
spading  in  the  spring,  to  mix  all  the  materials  properly 
with  the  soil,  and  fit  it  for  the  seeds.  If  the  soil  be  very 
tough,  and  not  fit  to  be  turned  up,  a  thorough  harrowing 
or  working  w^ith  the  horse-hoe  will  do.  Where  large 
quantities  are  grown,  the  drills  may  be  the  same  distance 
apart  as  that  recommended  for  apples — three  feet ;  but  if 
only  a  few,  twelve  to  eighteen  inches  will  be  sufficient,  as 
the  cleaning  can  be  done  with  the  hoe.  The  seeds  should 
be  scattered  thinly,  that  every  plant  may  have  sufficient 
space  without  any  thinning.  The  end  to  aim.  at,  as  before 
remarked,  is  to  get  good  growth,  say  eighteen  to  twenty 
inches  in  height,  and  stout  in  proportion,  before  the  first 
of  August.  This  can  be  done  in  any  deeply-trenched  or 
plowed  fresh  soil,  well  prepared  and  manured,  as  described 
above.  I  have  been  told  that  seedling  pears,  grown  in  a 
frame,  covered  with  whitewashed  sash,  and  kept  well 
ventilated  continually,  escaped  the  "leaf-blight,"  whilst 
all  those  grown  in  open  ground,  near  by,  were  blighted ; 
showing,  as  far  as  the  experiment  goes,  that  the  sun's 
heat  has  something  to  do  with  producing  leaf-blight. 
Pear  seedlings  should  always  be  taken  up  in  the  fall,  after 
the  first  season's  growth ;  the  largest  selected  for  trans- 
planting into  the  nursery,  and  the  smaller  to  be  put  into 
beds,  to  remain  another  season. 

Quince  Stocks  are  propagated  with  considerable  success 
by  cuttings.  These  should  be  strong  shoots,  six  inches  to 
a  foot  long,  taken  off  close  to  the  old  wood,  and,  if  pos- 


PROPAGATION    OF    STOCKS.  129 

sible,  with  a  small  portion  attached,  prepared  as  directed 
in  article  on  cuttings,  early  in  the  winter,  and  kept  in  pits 
two  or  three  feet  below  the  surface  of  the  soil,  in  a  dry 
place,  until  planting  time,  in  spring.  If  practicable,  plant 
early  in  the  fall,  as  soon  as  the  wood  is  ripe,  and  cover 
with  leaves  on  setting  in  of  winter,  to  prevent  hard  freez- 
ing ;  success  will  be  more  certain.  They  should  be  plant- 
ed in  a  light)  friable,  deep  soil,  in  rows  eighteen  inches  to 
two  feet  apart,  four  to  six  inches  apart  in  the  row,  and  so 
deep  that  but  a  couple  of  buds  remain  above  the  surface. 
The  ground  should  be  kept  clean  and  mellow  amongst 
them  all  summer,  and,  if  the  cuttings  were  stout  and  long, 
they  will,  in  the  autumn,  be  fit  for  taking  up  and  prepar- 
ing for  planting  into  nursery  rows  the  following  spring. 
The  best  and  surest  method  of  propagating  the  quince 
stock,  however,  is  by  layers.  The  manner  of  layering  is 
that  recommended  for  the  Doucin  and  Paradise — by 
earthing  up  (fig.  65).  The  stool  plants  should  be  set  out 
in  a  fine,  rich,  deep  border  of  warm,  friable  soil,  and  be 
about  six  feet  apart,  when  designed  to  be  permanent.  As 
each  stool,  by  the  system  recommended,  can  only  yield  a 
crop  of  plants  every  two  years,  there  should  be  two  sets, 
so  that  an  annual  supply  may  be  obtained.  These  stools, 
in  spite  of  the  best  treatment,  become  enfeebled  in  a  few 
years,  and  successive  plantations  must  be  made  where 
continual  propagation  is  intended. 

By  the  ordinary  system  of  bending  down  the  shoots, 
and  slitting,  or  even  without  the  slitting,  a  crop  may  be 
obtained  every  year — that  is,  the  shoots  of  the  current 
season's  growth  may  be  layered  in  July  or  August ;  but 
no  such  stocks  can  be  obtained  as  by  the  earthing  up  and 
taking  a  crop  every  two  years.  This  is  the  system  recom- 
mended to  those  who  want  first-rate  quince  stocks. 

The  very  general  lack  of  information  in  this  country  on 
the  subject  of  quince  stocks  for  pears  has  given  rise  to  a 
great  many  misapprehensions  and  erroneous  statements  in 
6* 


130  THE    NURSERY. 

regard  to  them,  both  by  horticultural  writers  and  others. 
At  first  it  was  said  that  the  stocks  used  by  the  French,  and 
imported  by  nurserymen  here,  were  the  Portugal.  Again, 
it  was  discovered  they  were  nothing  more  than  the  com- 
mon apple  quince ;  consequently,  a  multitude  of  the  apple 
quinces  have  been  worked,  and  sent  out  as  "  dwarf  pears" 
The  slow  and  feeble  growth  of  this  variety  unfits  it  entirely 
for  a  stock  for  the  pear,  and  only  a  very  few  varieties  will 
form  a  union  with  it  that  will  last  over  three  or  four  years. 
Such  trees  cannot  fail  to  give  general  dissatisfaction,  and, 
among  people  who  know  no  better,  create  a  prejudice 
against  quince  stocks  in  general  Indeed,  this  is  the  cause 
why  so  much  has  been  said  about  the  pears  on  quince 
being  so  short-lived. 

The  truth  is,  that  the  varieties  used  in  France  are  nei- 
ther the  Apple  nor  the  Portugal  Quince,  but  vigorous 
varieties  that  have  been  originated  there,  and  found  to 
answer  this  purpose  particularly  well.  The  great  requisite 
of  a  quince  stock  for  the  pear  is  at/Vee,  vigoroiis,  and  rapid 
growth.  A  variety  originated  at  the  town  of  Angers,  in 
France,  and  extensively  used,  propagated,  and  sold  there 
as  the  Angers  Quince,  has  proved  to  be  an  excellent  stock. 
It  is  a  very  rapid,  vigorous  grower,  making  strong  shoots 
three  feet  long,  in  one  season.  It  has  large  foliage,  resem- 
bling the  Portugal.  In  some  parts  of  France,  as  in  Nor- 
mandy, it  is  known  as  the  broad-leaved.  There  is  another 
variety,  with  smaller  leaves,  but  of  free,  vigorous  growth, 
too,  almost  exclusively  cultivated  in  some  districts.  Sev- 
eral extensive  nurserymen  at  Orleans,  Paris,  and  elsewhere, 
consider  it  superior  to  the  broad-leaved,  and  especially  for 
very  vigorous  growing  sorts.  It  is  known  as  the  Paris 
or  Fontenay  Quince. 

We  have  tried  both  extensively,  and  find  but  very  little 
difference,  thus  far,  in  the  results  obtained.  In  the  first 
edition  of  this  work,  I  alluded  to  an  upright  growing 
variety  which  then  promised  to  be  valuable,  but  has  since 


PROPAGATION    OF    STOCKS.  131 

proved  to  be  too  feeble  in  its  growth  to  be  used  advan- 
tageously for  a  stock  for  fruit  trees,  so  it  is  abandoned. 

The  Mountain  Ash,  it  is  said,  makes  a  good  stock  for 
certain  varieties  in  very  light,  sandy  soils,  when  neither 
the  pear  nor  quince  succeeds  well.  It  is  propagated  from 
seed,  and  requires  to  be  two  years  old  before  being 
worked. 

The  Thorn. — Seedlings  of  our  vigorous,  native  thorns 
make  good  stocks  when  about  three  years  old  ;  the  seeds 
require  to  be  in  the  rot-heap  one  year  before  sowing.  The 
only  cases  in  which  it  can  be  recommended  are  those  in 
which  a  soil  may  be  so  wet  and  cold  as  to  be  unfit  for  the 
pear  or  quince ;  but  it  is  better  to  improve  such  soils  by 
draining,  subsoil  plowing,  and  by  the  addition  of  suitable 
composts ;  for  even  the  thorn  will  fail  in  giving  satisfac- 
tion on  a  stiff,  cold  soil.  I  cannot  recommend  either  the 
Thorn  or  Mountain  Ash  as  a  stock  for  the  pear,  except  as 
a  matter  of  fancy  or  experiment. 

3d.  Stocks  for  the  Cherry. — The  principal  stocks  used 
for  the  cherry  are  the  Mazzard,  for  standard  orchard  trees, 
and  the  Mahaleb,  for  garden  pyramids  and  dwarfs. 

Mazzard  Seedlings. — The  Mazzard  cherry  is  a  lofty, 
rapid-growing,  pyramidal-headed  tree.  Its  fruit  is  small, 
dark  brown  or  black,  with  a  sprightly  flavor,  and  slight 
bitterness.  It  is  the  original  type  of  all  the  heart 
varieties. 

The  Mahaleb  (Cerasus  Mahaleb)  is  a  small  tree,  with 
glossy,  deep-green  foliage.  The  fruit  is  black,  about  the 
size  of  a  marrowfat  pea,  and  quite  bitter.  It  blossoms  and 
bears  fruit  when  about  three  years  old.  It  is  consider- 
ably cultivated  in  many  parts  of  Europe  as  an  orna- 
mental lawn  tree.  There  are  few  bearing  trees  in  this 
country  yet ;  consequently,  a  large  proportion  of  the  stocks 
are  imported,  or  grown  from  imported  seeds. 

The  seeds  are  prepared,  saved,  sown,  and  managed,  in 
all  respects,  similar  to  the  Mazzards,  and  are  fit  for  trans- 


132 


THE    NURSERY. 


ferring  to  the  nursery  rows  at  the  end  of  the  first  season's 
growth. 

The  common  Red  Pie  cherry,  and  the  Small  Morello, 
make  very  good  stocks  for  dwarf  trees  of  the  Duke  and 
Morello  classes ;  but  the  Hearts  and  Bigarreatis  do  not 
take  well  on  them.  These  are  raised  from  seed  in  the 
same  way  as  the  Mazzards  and  Mahalebs.  I  observe  that 
Western  fruit  growers  are  now  recommending  this  stock 
in  preference  to  all  others  for  that  climate,  on  account  of 
its  hardiness.  I  do  not  think,  however,  that  it  will  be 
used  as  a  stock  to  any  great  extent. 

Preparing  and  Saving  the  Seeds. — The  fruit  is  allowed 
to  remain  on  the  tree  until  thoroughly  ripe.  It  is  then 
shaken  or  picked  off,  and  put  into  tubs,  where  the  pulp  is 
washed  off  until  the  stones  are  perfectly  clean.  They 
are  then  spread  out  on  boards,  and  turned  over  occasion- 
ally until  dry,  when  they  are  put  away  in  boxes,  mixed 
with  sand  very  slightly  moist.  A  layer  of  sand  is  spread 
in  the  bottom  of  the  box,  then  a  thin  layer  of  the  stones  ; 
next  a  layer  of  sand,  and  so  on  until  the  box  is  full.  The 
boxes  are  secured  against  vermin,  and  put  away  in  a  cool, 
dry  place,  until  needed  for  planting.  If  not  planted  in 
the  fall,  they  may  be  wintered  in  a  cellar,  or  out  of  doors, 
protected  from  rain  by  boards  or  other  covering. 

When  to  Plant. — If  circumstances  were  favorable,  all 
seeds  would  be  better  planted  in  the  fall,  or  immediately 
after  their  maturity.  Nature,  in  her  course,  indicates 
this  to  be  a  general  law ;  but  in  cultivation,  this  must  de- 
pend on  circumstances.  The  ground  may  not  be  in  readi- 
ness. It  may  be  so  wet  and  heavy,  that  seeds  would  be 
so  saturated  with  moisture  during  the  winter  as  to  lose 
their  vitality,  or  the  ground  might  become  so  beaten 
down  and  compact  with  fall,  winter,  and  early  spring 
rains,  as  to  make  it  almost  impossible  for  the  young  plants 
to  make  their  way  through  it.  All  these  things  are  to  be 
considered  in  deciding  the  proper  time  to  sow  seeds.  If 


PROPAGATION    OF    STOCKS.  133 

the  soil  be  very  light  and  porous,  cherry  seeds  may  be 
sown  as  soon  as  gathered  ;  if  the  contrary,  it  should  be 
deferred  until  spring ;  but  they  germinate  early,  and  at  a 
low  temperature,  so  that  it  is  necessary  to  keep  them 
pretty  dry  and  cool,  and  get  them  into  the  ground  at  the 
earliest  practicable  moment.  We  find  it  quite  difficult  to 
keep  them  properly,  and  yet  prevent  them  from  germi- 
nating before  the  ground  is  dry  enough  to  receive  them. 

How  to  Plant. — For  cherry  seeds  the  ground  should  be 
light,  in  a  good,  fertile  state,  but  not  strongly  manured. 
The  seeds  are  sown  in  drills,  as  recommended  for  apple 
and  pear  seeds;  and  so  thin  as  to  give  each  plant  space  to 
grow  in,  without  being  crowded  by  others.  In  this  way, 
and  with  clean  summer  culture,  the  stocks  will  all  be 
large  enough,  at  the  end  of  the  first  season's  growth,  to  be 
taken  up  and  prepared  for  planting  in  nursery  rows  the 
following  spring. 

4th.  Stocks  for  the  Peach. — As  a  general  thing,  the 
peach  is  worked  on  its  own  stocks  in  this  country.  The 
stones  should  be  stratified  during  the  winter,  by  being 
placed  in  boxes,  with  alternate  layers  of  sand,  or  light 
earth,  and  be  kept  in  a  situation  exposed  to  the  frost ; 
unless  this  is  done,  they  will  not  germinate  the  following 
spring  ;  they  require  more  moisture  and  exposure  to  open 
their  hard  shells,  and  induce  germination,  than  any  other 
fruit  seeds.  They  should  be  examined  a  week  or  two 
before  planting  time,  and  if  they  exhibit  no  signs  of  vege- 
tation, more  moisture  should  be  given  them ;  if  they  have 
been  kept  dry  for  a  month  or  two  before  being  stratified, 
they  may  require  to  be  cracked.  Nurserymen  have  an 
instrument  for  this  purpose,  resembling  nut-crackers, 
which  operates  with  great  rapidity.  When  cracked, 
they  may  be  mixed  with  moist  earth,  and  germinated  in 
a  warm  place.  The  growth  of  every  one  so  germinated 
can  be  depended  on,  and  tho  rows  will  be  regular.  As 
the  seeds  are  planted  where  the  trees  remain  until  trans- 


134  THE    NURSERY. 

ferred  to  the  garden  or  orchard,  it  is  a  very  good  plan  to 
nip  off  the  point  of  the  young  root  protruded  from  the 
seed ;  this  makes  it  ramify,  so  that,  when  taken  up,  the 
trees  have  fine  branched  and  fibrous  roots,  instead  of 
long  tap- roots,  as  is  very  generally  the  case. 

Planting. — The  seeds  should  be  put  in  the  ground  as 
soon  in  the  spring  as  it  is  in  a  fit  state  to  be  worked,  or  as 
soon  thereafter  as  possible.  A  line  is  stretched,  and  holes 
made  with  a  dibble  to  receive  the  seed ;  it  should  be  put 
in  with  the  root  downwards,  and  be  covered  not  over  one- 
fourth  of  an  inch  deep. 

Plum  Stocks  are  used  for  the  peach  in  soils  of  a  stiff, 
adhesive  character,  in  which  the  peach  does  not  succeed. 
In  England,  the  peach  is  worked  almost  exclusively  on 
the  plum,  as  it  suits  their  moist  climate  and  soil  better. 
In  France,  the  hard-shell  almond  is  used  almost  exclusively 
on  dry,  and  the  plum  on  damp  soils.  Almond  stocks  are 
raised  in  the  same  way  as  the  peach. 

Dwarf  Peach-Trees  are  produced  by  working  on  the 
same  stocks  recommended  for  dwarfing  the  plum.  Some 
time  ago,  a  French  journal  gave  a  very  interesting  account 
of  experiments  made  in  dwarfing  the  peach  and  plum,  by 
a  Dr.  Bretonneau,  of  Tours,  France.  He  had  succeeded 
in  producing  very  pretty  dwarf  plum  -and  peach-trees  on 
a  dwarf  plum,  indigenous  to  this  country  (Prunus  pumila). 
He  exhibited  beautiful  prolific  dwarf  trees  of  the  Green 
Gage  plum  on  the  sloe,  and  was  making  farther  experi- 
ments with  the  dwarf  almond  as  a  stock  for  peaches. 

These  subjects  are  all  worthy  the  attention  of  those  who 
have  the  leisure  for  experiments.  The  art  of  growing  a 
large  collection  of  fruits  on  a  small  spot  of  ground  is  of 
great  importance  to  curious  and  tasteful  people  living  in 
towns  and  villages. 

Stocks  for  the  Apricot  and  Nectarine. — Everything 
that  has  been  said  of  peach  stocks  applies,  with  equal 
force  and  propriety,  to  these  two  trees. 


PROPAGATION    OF    STOCKS.  135 

5th.  Stocks  for  the  Plum. — It  is  difficult,  in  this  country, 
to  get  good  plum  stocks.  If  seeds  be  taken  promiscu- 
ously from  any  variety  that  is  to  be  had,  as  is  done  with 
most  other  trees,  the  probability  is  that,  of  the  seedlings, 
not  one  in  500  will  be  suitable  for  a  stock.  I  have  seen 
bushel*  of  seeds  planted  that  were  said  to  have  been  col- 
lected from  strong  growing  trees ;  but  out  of  the  tens  of 
thousands  of  seedlings  produced  from  them,  not  100  were 
ever  worked,  or  fit  to  be.  It  is  not  only  necessary  to  ob- 
tain seeds  from  vigorous-growing,  healthy  trees,  but  from 
a  species  or  variety  that  reproduces  itself  from  seed. 

The  Horse  Plum,  an  oval,  purple,  freestone  sort,  with 
vigorous  downy  shoots,  reproduces  itself  from  seed,  and 
makes  good  stocks.  On  a  suitable,  well-prepared  soil,  its 
seedlings  often  attain  two  feet  or  more  in  height  in  one 
season,  and  are  then  fit  for  the  nursery  rows.  They  re- 
quire a  rich,  substantial  soil,  prepared  as  recommended 
for  pear  seeds.  Other  vigorous  sorts  have  been  recom- 
mended in  various  parts  of  the  country,  but,  on  trial, 
they  have  been  found  quite  inferior  to  the  horse  plum, 
and,  as  a  general  thing,  worthless.  The  "  black-knot,"  a 
fungus  which  infests  the  plum,  is  now  so  prevalent  in  this 
country,  that  we  regard-  it  as  unsafe  to  take  seeds  pro- 
miscuously gathered ;  hence  we  now  import  our  plum 
stocks  from  Europe,  where  this  disease  does  not  exist.  It 
is  doubtful,  however,  whether  the  seed  will  inherit  the 
disease,  but  it  is  well  to  be  on  the  safe  side. 

The  Canada,  or  Wild  Plum,  which  abounds  in  Ohio, 
Michigan,  and  other  Western  States,  is  a  distinct  species, 
and  reproduces  itself  from  seed.  Some  of  the  seed- 
lings grow  extremely  rapid,  making  fine  stocks,  in  one 
year,  on  any  good  soil.  They  continue  in  a  thrifty,  grow- 
ing state  until  late  in  the  autumn  ;  but  they  should  not 
be  worked  above  the  ground  in  the  usual  way,  as  their 
growth  does  not  keep  pace  with  the  species  to  which  most 
of  our  cultivated  sorts  belong.  The  best  way  to  manage 


136  THE    NURSERY. 

them  is  to  take  the  yearling  seedlings,  whip-graft  them 
on  the  collar,  and  set  them  out  at  once  in  the  nursery 
rows ;  they  will  make  good  trees  for  planting  out  in  three 
years.  The  stock  is  all  below  the  surface  of  the  ground, 
and,  in  time,  the  graft  sends  out  roots,  and  becomes,  in  a 
great  measure,  independent  of  the  stock.  Where  the 
seedlings  are  not  large  enough  for  grafting  the  first  sea- 
son, they  may  be  set  out  in  the  nursery,  and  allowed  to 
grow  one  season,  and  then  the  earth  can  be  removed  from 
the  collar  until  the  graft  is  inserted,  and  then  drawn  up. 
This  we  find,  by  later  experience,  the  better  method,  and 
practice  it  exclusively.  To  procure  strong  stocks  for 
standard  trees,  of  weak-growing  sorts,  like  the  G-reen 
Gage,  such  thrifty  varieties  as  the  Imperial  Gage  and 
Smithes  Orleans  may  be  grafted  on  this  native  species, 
and  in  two  or  three  years  they  will  make  stocks  strong 
enough  for  any  purpose.  The  French  use  several  natural 
species  that  are  produced  from  seed  —  the  St.  Julien, 
large  and  small  (Brussels  of  the  English),  and  the  Damas 
noir,  large  and  small.  The  first  is  generally  used  for 
stocks  for  apricots  and  peaches  as  well  as  plums.  We 
find  none  of  these  superior  in  vigor  to  the  horse  plum, 
but  they  are  worked  more  successfully.  In  England,  the 
Brussels,  Brompton,  and  Muscle  stocks  are  used,  propa- 
gated from  both  seeds  and  layers.  For  small-sized  gar- 
den trees,  either  dwarf  standards  or  pyramids,  the  cherry 
plum,  "  Myrobolan  "  of  the  French  catalogues,  makes  a 
very  good  stock. 

It  is  a  natural  species,  and  can,  therefore,  be  produced 
true  from  seed.  It  maintains  a  vigorous  growth  all  sum- 
mer, and  may  be  worked  in  July,  August,  or  September. 
It  may  also  be  propagated  from  layers. 

The  Sloe  is  also  used  to  some  extent  where  very  small 
trees  are  wanted  ;  and  we  have  no  doubt  some  native  spe- 
cies, as,  for  instance,  the  Beach  and  Chickasaw  plums,  which 
are  small  trees,  will  make  good  dwarf  stocks.  Handsome 


TRANSPLANTING    STOCKS.  137" 

small-sized  garden  trees  may  be  raised  on  the  smaller 
kinds  of  the  Canada  Plum.  The  first  year's  growth,  and 
even  the  second,  is  quite  vigorous  on  them ;  but  after 
that  the  vigor  diminishes,  and  the  trees  become  quite 
prolific.  This  and  the  Cherry  Plum  are  principal  stocks 
for  dwarfing. 

Plums  for  seeds  should  ripen  well  on  the  tree ;  they  are 
then  gathered,  the  pulp  washed  off,  and  the  seeds  dried 
and  put  away  in  boxes  of  -sand,  in  alternate  layers,  as 
recommended  for  cherries.  They  may  be  sowed  in  fall  or 
spring,  as  circumstances,  already  mentioned,  will  admit. 

Nearly  all  plums  used  for  stocks  may  be  propagated  by 
layers.  Mother  plants,  or  stools,  are  planted  out  and  cut 
back  as  recommended  for  Paradise,  etc. ;  the  shoots  of  the 
previous  season's  growth  are  pegged  down  flat  in  the 
spring,  and  two  inches  of  earth  drawn  over  them.  Every 
bud  on  these  layers  will  produce  a  shoot  that,  generally, 
will  be  well  enough  rooted  in  the  fall  to  be  separated  from 
the  stool,  and  planted  out  into  nursery  rows  the  following 
spring.  These  layered  shoots  are  cut  off  close  to  the  old 
plant,  and  the  upright  shoots  produced  during  the  pre- 
vious season  may  be  again  pegged  down. 

The  stools,  or  mother  plants,  managed  in  this  way,  re- 
quire the  best  treatment  to  maintain  their  vigor,  that  a 
supply  of  strong  shoots  may  be  produced  every  season  fit 
to  lay  down  in  the  spring.  Weak,  slender  shoots,  unfit 
to  layer,  should  be  cut  out  early  in  the  season,  to  aid  the 
growth  of  those  intended  for  use. 

SECTION  3. — TRANSPLANTING  STOCKS. 

This  comprehends  three  separate  operations  —  taking 
up,  dressing  or  pruning,  and  replanting /  but  before 
touching  on  the  details  of  these  operations,  it  may  be  well 
to  consider 

1st.  The  age  at  which  Stocks  should  be  transplanted. — 
On  this  point  there  seems  to  be  a  diversity  of  opinion. 


138  THE    XURSERY. 

The  very  general  one  is,  that  they  should  remain  where 
they  have  been  propagated  until  they  are  large  enough  to 
be  worked ;  a  great  many  plans  are,  therefore,  suggested 
for  wintering  seedlings,  and  especially  the  pear.  The  ex- 
perience of  the  best  cultivators  everywhere  is,  that  seed- 
ling stocks  in  general  should  be  transplanted  when  one 
year  old.  It  may  be  urged  against  this  that  some  seed- 
lings are  so  small  when  one  year  old,  as  not  to  be  worth 
transplanting ;  so  feeble,  that  more  care  and  culture  would 
be  required,  before  they  could  be  worked,  than  they  are 
worth.  In  reply,  it  can  only  be  said  that  such  feeble  pro- 
ductions are  only  fit  to  be  thrown  away  ;  because  the  seeds 
must  have  been  defective,  or  the  soil  and  culture  bad ; 
and  stocks  raised  from  poor  seeds,  or  stunted  by  bad  soil 
and  culture,  will  never  make  sound,  healthy,  vigorous,  nor 
long-lived  trees.  There  may  be  some  exceptions  to  this, 
but  the  rule  will  generally  hold  good. 

When  seedlings  remain  longer  than  one  year  in  the  seed- 
bed, they  grow  up  slender  and  weak ;  one  more  vigorous 
than  its  neighbors  will  ruin  all  around  it.  Then  the  roots 
do  not  ramify,  but  continue  to  lengthen,  without  forming 
laterals  or  fibres  ;  and  when  removed,  and  reduced  to  the 
necessary  dimensions,  they  receive  a  severe  check;  but  at 
one  year  the  check  is  very  light ;  they  at  once  form  lateral 
roots,  and  instead  of  being  drawn  up  tall  and  slender,  they 
become  stout  and  well-proportioned.  The  best  pear-grow- 
ers in  Europe,  and  even  in  this  country,  would  scarcely 
take,  as  a  gift,  two-year  seedling  pears  from  the  seed-bed, 
unless  in  case  of  absolute  necessity. 

The  proper  plan  is  to  take  up  all  seedling  stocks,  and  all 
layers  sufficiently  rooted  to  bear  separation  from  the  stool, 
and  all  cuttings  that  stand  close,  at  one  year  old,  and  sort 
and  arrange  into  separate  classes,  in  this  way  :  in  one  class 
put  the  strongest,  those  fit  for  immediate  use,  either  to  be 
grafted  on  the  root,  or  set  in  nursery  rows,  and  be  budded 
the  summer  following  ;  in  another  class,  put  such  as  may 


TKANSPL  ANTING    STOCKS.  139 

require  to  stand  one  year  in  the  nursery  rows,  to  be  fit  for 
working ;  and  in  the  third  class,  such  as  are  too  weak  to  be 
put  in  the  nursery  rows,  but  will  require  to  bo  "  bedded 
out;"  that  is,  set  closely  in  beds  by  themselves,  where  they 
can  remain  for  one  or  two  years,  until  they  are  large  and 
strong  enough  for  root  grafting  or  for  the  nursery  rows. 
Unless  in  the  case  of  stocks  scarce  and  difficult  to  procure, 
this  third  class  had  better  be  thrown  away  at  once ;  as  it 
Avill  cost  as  much  to  nurse  them  as  to  raise  fine  stocks 
from  the  seed. 

2d.  Time  to  take  up. — There  is  but  one  proper  time  to 
take  up  all  seedlings  and  rooted  layers  for  stocks,  and  that 
is  the  fall ;  and  for  several  reasons.  The  first  is,  they 
are  all  liable  to  injury  by  the  frosts  of  winter ;  seedlings 
have  no  side  roots  to  hold  them  in  the  ground,  and  layers 
are  near  the  surface,  so  that  the  freezing  and  thawing 
draw  them  up ;  the  roots  arc  thus  exposed,  and  seriously 
injured.  The  second  is,  they  can  be  dressed  during  the 
winter  in  the  cellar,  and  be  ready  for  planting  in  the  spring. 
When  taken  up,  they  can  be  laid  closely  in  by  the  roots 
in  the  soil,  in  a  dry  place,  and  covered  over  so  as  to 
exclude  frost.  When  out-door  work  is  over,  they  can  be 
uncovered,  taken  into  the  cellar  and  dressed,  and  care- 
fully laid  in  again  by  the  roots,  in  the  same  place,  which 
should,  of  course,  in  the  mean  time,  be  protected  from 
frost.  The  third  reason  is,  that  when  seedlings  are  taken 
up  in  the  fall,  the  ground  can  bo  prepared  for  another 
crop ;  and  this  is  of  considerable  importance.  In  the 
case  of  layers,  the  stools  or  mother  plants  can  be  manured, 
dressed,  and  put  in  order  for  another  season's  growth; 
and  this,  also,  is  important.  Such  arc  some  of  the  ad- 
vantages, or,  in  f-ict,  the  necessities  of  taking  up  stocks  in 
the  fall.  In  the  case  of  the  quince,  however,  it  frequently 
occurs  that,  when  the  layers  have  been  removed  in  the 
fall,  a  severe  winter  kills  the  stool  plants,  unless  well  pro- 
tected with  a  coverino;  of  earth. 


140  THE    NTJJRSERY. 

3d.  How  to  take  up. — Seedlings  are  very  easily  taken 
up,  in  two  ways,  without  in  the  least  mutilating  the 
roots.  If  one  person  does  the  work,  he  should  begin  at 
one  end  of  the  row,  and,  with  a  common  spade,  or,  which 
is  better,  one  with  three  strong  prongs,  a  foot  long  and 
an  inch  and  a  half  wide,  dig  under  the  plants  without 
cutting  the  roots,  and,  as  fast  a^  they  are  loosened  below, 
pull  them  out ;  and  in  this  way  proceed.  Another  and 
quicker  way  is,  for  two  men  to  loesen  the  plants,  each  on 
opposite  sides  of  the  row,  inserting  a  forked  spade  as 
deep  as  the  roots  go,  while  another  follows  and  pulls 
out  the  plants.  When  the  ground  is  quite  soft,  this  way 
answers  very  well ;  but  if  dry,  or  hard,  the  first  is  better. 

In  nurseries  where  very  large  quantities  of  seedlings 
are  to  be  taken  up  at  once,  a  "-Tree-digger  "  (sec  Imple- 
ments), drawn  by  horses,  is  used.  The  "digger"  passes 
under  the  row  at  a  depth  sufficient  to  avoid  injury  to  the 
roots,  and  loosens  them  so  that  they  can  be  readily  pulled, 
cither  the  whole,  or  a  part. 

Layers  require  more  care  and  caution.  A  trench  must 
be  opened  all  around  the  layered  branches,  deep  enough 
to  go  quite  below  the  roots,  and  in  an  oblique  manner,  so 
as  to  undermine  them.  "Where  the  branches  are  pegged 
down,  the  pegs  must  be  taken  out,  and  the  layer  is  then 
separated  between  the  rooted  part  and  the  stool,  and 
gently  taken  from  the  earth.  Especial  care  must  be  taken 
not  to  split  those  that  have  been  layered  by  incision  ; 
their  removal  must  be  done  slowly  and  cautiously. 

Mound  Layers  are  easier  separated  ;  the  earth  is  simply 
removed  from  the  base  of  the  rooted  branches,  and  they 
are  then  separated  within  an  inch  or  BO  of  the  stem. 

Layered  Branches. — When  the  young  rooted  plants  are 
produced  from  the  eyes  of  a  buried  shoot  or  branch,  the 
pegs  are  removed,  the  whole  branch  dug  under,  and  com- 
pletely loosened  and  separated  from  the  stool ;  the  young 
plants  are  then  taken  off,  one  by  one,  close  to  their  base. 


TRANSPLANTING    STOCKS. 


141 


4th.  Pruning,  or  Dressing  Stocks. — The  objects  always 
in  view,  in  performing  this  operation,  are — to  remove  in- 
jured or  broken  roots ;  to  reduce  the  tap-root,  that  it  may 

produce  laterals ; 
to  reduce  the 
stems  to  a  proper 
proportion  with 
the  roots,  and  put 
them  in  a  condi- 
tion that  will  in- 
sure a  vigorous 
growth. 

Seedlings,  taken 
from  the  seed-bed, 
have  always  a 
long  tap-root,  with 
few  or  no  laterals  ; 
and  as  trees  with 
such  roots  are  un- 
fit for  safe  trans- 
plantation, it  is 
necessary  to  take 
measures  to 
change  their  char- 
acter. We  there- 
fore remove  the 
small  tapering 
portion  of  the 
root,  as  at  fig.  8G, 
A,  and  this  in- 
the  produc- 
tion of  lateral  or 
rcots, 

near  the  surface 
of  the  ground.  The  pear  roots,  especially,  are  inclined 
more  to  descend  in  a  straight  line  than  to  spread  ;  and 


Figs.  86  and  87.— SEEDLING  STOCKS  AND 
CUTTINGS. 

Fig.  86,  a  seedling  stock,  one  year's  growth,  as  it 
comes  from   the  seed-bed ;   the  line  at  A  shows  the 
shortening  of  the  tap-root ;  that  at  J5,  the  shortening     . 
of  the  stem  before  replanting.   Fig.  87,  a  quince  cut 
ting ;  the  cross  lines  on  the  stem  and  roots  indicate  spreading 
the  pruning  before  replanting. 


142 


THE    NURSERY. 


unless  they  are  well  cut  back  when  young,  they  are 
always  difficult  to  transplant  safely  afterwards.  Roots 
that  descend  like  the  prongs  of  a  fork  are  usually  desti- 
tute of  fibres,  whilst  those  that  spread  out  horizontally, 
or  near  the  surface,  are  well  furnished  with  fibres,  that 
r.ot  only  make  trees  easily  transplanted,  but  inclined 
to  early  fruitfulness.  This  operation  on  the  roots,  it  is 
obvious,  destroys  the  natural  balance  or  proportion  that 
existed  between  them  and  the  tops.  Hence  the 
necessity  for  shortening  the  stem  in  a  corresponding 
manner.  But  even  if  the  roots  were  not  shortened, 
the  stems  should  be,  in  order  to  obtain  a  vigorous 
growth.  The  very  removal  of  the  plant  lessens  the  power 
of  the  roots  to  absorb  and  convey  nutriment ;  and  on  this 
account,  if  no  other,  the  stem-  should  be  reduced  by  way 
of  regulating  the  supply  and  demand.  We  sometimes 
see  young  stocks  planted  out  without  any  shortening  of 
the  stem;  and  the  result  is,  they  scarcely  make  any  growth 
the  first  season — the  roots  are  barely  able  to  absorb 
enough  to  keep  ..them  alive.  If  one-half  the  stem  had 
been  cut  away,  the  remaining  buds  would  have  received 
such  a  supply  of  food  as  would  have  produced  a  vigorous 
growth.  It  is  a  pretty  good  rule,  therefore,  to  reduce  the 
stems  of  seedlings  one-third  to  one-half \  as  at  B  (7,  fig. 
86.  But  there  are  exceptions  to  this.  For  instance,  a 
stock  with  a  very  large  and  strong  root,  and  a  short, 
stout,  close-jointed  stem,  well  matured,  and  furnished  with 
plump,  prominent  buds,  requires  very  little,  if  any,  short- 
ening of  the  stem ;  and  again,  others  are  just  the  reverse 
— tall,  slender,  and  feeble,  having  been  suffocated  in  the 
seed-bed.  Such  as  these  require  to  be  shortened  more 
than  half,  perhaps  two-thirds. 

Layers,  or  Cuttings  (fig.  87),  are  in  a  different  situation 
from  seedlings,  and  require,  therefore,  different  treatment.  * 
They  have  no  tap-roots,  but  masses  of  fibres ;   and  these 
fibres,  being  more  or  less  injured  by  exposure,  should  be 


TRANSPLANTING    STOCKS.  143 

cut  off,  to  make  way  for  new  ones.  The  shortening  of 
the  stems  depends  entirely  on  the  size  and  condition  of 
the  roots.  If  well  rooted,  and  the  roots  be  in  good  con- 
dition, they  may  be  left  a  foot  long;  if  poorly  rooted, 
they  should  be  cut  back  to  six  or  eight  inches.  This  ap- 
plies equally  to  the  layers  of  the  quince,  Paradise,  Doucln, 
plums,  etc. 

5th.  Planting  stocks  in  the  nursery  rows  where  they 
are  to  be  budded. — The  first  consideration  which  this 
operation  suggests  is  the  condition  of  the  soil.  Under 
the  head  of  soils,  sufficient  has  been  said  respecting  the 
modes  of  deepening,  draining,  and  enriching  •  and  it  is 
only  necessary  to  say  here  that,  where  stocks  are  planted, 
the  soil  should  be  at  once  deep,  dry,  and  rich  /  for  no 
such  thing  as  sound,  vigorous  fruit-trees  can  be  raised  on 
a  poor,  shallow,  or  wet  soil.  The  various  means  of  im- 
provement have  been  already  pointed  out  and  explained. 
It  may,  however,  be  well  to  remark  that  ground  may  be 
too  rich,  and  induce  a  rank,  watery  growth,  that  would 
either  result  in  death  at  the  final  transplanting  into  the 
garden  or  orchard,  or  in  a  very  feeble  and  sickly  growth 
after  it.  We  see  frequent  illustrations  of  this  in  the  case 
of  trees  raised  in  old,  worn-out  nurseries,  where  rapid 
growth  has  been  forced  by  powerfully-stimulating  ma- 
nures, and  in  rich  alluvial  prairie  soils  and  river  bottoms. 
These  rank,  pithy,  soft  productions,  are  very  attractive 
to  tne  eye  ;  but  they  suffer  so  much  by  removal,  no  mat- 
ter how  well  treated,  that  they  seldom  fail  to  disappoint 
the  planter.  Manures  used  should  be  well  decomposed, 
and  incorporated  with  the  soil,  if  possible,  the  autumn 
before  planting.  A  tree  is  not  like  a  cabbage  or  lettuce. 
The  tenderness  and  succulency  of  these  constitute  their 
great  merit ;  but  the  wood  of  a  tree  must  be  firm, 
short-jointed,  and  mature;  and  these  requisites  are  al- 
ways attained  by  a  moderate  and  natural,  not  a  forced, 
growth. 


144  THE   NURSERY. 

Planting  each  species  in  the  soil  best  adapted  to  it. — 
Where  there  are  different  characters  of  soils  in  a  nursery, 
to  be  planted  with  a  general  assortment  of  stocks,  it  is 
important  to  give  to  each  that  which  is  best  adapted  to 
its  nature ;  thus  the  pear,  apple,  and  plum  should  have 
the  richer,  deeper,  and  more  compact,  or  that  with  most 
clay.  The  plum,  in  particular,  succeeds  well  on  a  pretty 
stiff  clay.  The  cherry  and  peach  should  have  the  lightest 
and  warmest.  The  quince,  the  Paradise,  and  Doucin  do 
not  require  such  a  deep  soil  as  the  pear  and  the  common 
apple  seedlings,  because  their  roots  are  fibrous,  and  always 
remain  near  the  surface  ;  but  it  must  not  be  inferred  from 
this  that  a  shallow  soil  suits  these  best. 

6th.  When  to  Plant. — In  parts  of  the  country  where 
the  winter  is  long  and  severe,  or  where  freezing  and  thaw- 
ing are  frequent,  fall  planting  cannot  be  successful ;  as  the 
plants,  having  no  hold  of  the  ground,  are  drawn  out  and 
injured;  and  besides,  if  the  ground  is  somewhat  clayey 
and  tenacious,  the  heavy  rains  that  occur  early  in  the 
spring  will  make  it  so  compact  that  air  will  not  penetrate 
it,  and  the  young  roots  will  form  slowly  and  feebly. 
When  neither  of  these  difficulties  is  to  be  feared,  fall 
planting  is  decidedly  preferable.  Spring  planting  should 
be  done  at  the  earliest  moment  the  condition  of  the  ground 
will  admit;  which  is,  when  dry  enough  to  crumble  into 
fine  particles  when  turned  over  with  the  spade. 

7th.  Distance  to  Plant. — We  are  all  in  the  habit  of  plant- 
ing quite  too  closely  in  the  nursery ;  the  consequence  is 
that  the  trees  are  not  well  proportioned.  Frequently,  the 
standards  are  as  large  at  six  feet  from  the  ground,  as  at 
the  collar ;  weak,  and  top-heavy,  so  that  sticks  have  to  be 
used  to  support  them,  even  when  four  years  old.  Pyram- 
idal trees  are  out  of  the  question  where  such  close  plant- 
ing is  practised — the  growth  is  always  forced  to  the  top. 
Nature  gives  us  numerous  and  striking  illustrations  of  the 
effect  of  close  planting.  We  see,  in  a  natural  group  or 


TRANSPLANTING    STOCKS.  145 

thicket,  trees  running  up  forty  or  fifty  feet,  of  an  equal  di- 
ameter, and  without  a  branch ;  and  if  one  such  tree  were 
left  exposed,  by  the  removal  of  those  around  it,  the  first, 
high  wind  would  blow  it  down.  On  the  outskirts  of  this 
group  or  thicket,  or  perhaps  completely  isolated,  in  the 
center  of  a  field,  we  see  another  tree  of  the  same  species 
branched  almost  from  the  ground,  with  a  diameter  at 
the  base  twice  as  great  as  at  half  its  height,  and  tapering 
upward  with  beautiful  regularity,  capable  of  resisting 
a  hurricane.  To  raise  stout,  well-proportioned  trees,  we 
must  give  them  plenty  of  room,  that  they  may  have  the 
advantage  of  air  all  around,  and  not  at  the  top  only. 

There  is  scarcely  a  nursery  to  be  found  in  which  the 
trees  are  not  grown  too  close — three  or  four  on  the  space 
that  one  should  occupy.  There  is,  to  be  sure,  great  econo- 
my in  close  planting ;  for  five  hundred  trees  can  be  grown 
on  the  space  that  one  hundred  should  occupy,  and  with 
nearly  as  little  labor ;  but  it  would  really  be  better  for 
people  to  pay  twice  or  three  times  as  much  for  their  trees, 
if  grown  so  far  apart  that  the  air  and  light  would  have 
free  access  to  them  in  all  parts,  and  give  them  stout,  well- 
proportioned  forms.  A  reform  in  this  respect  is  much 
needed ;  but  it  cannot  be  expected  until  purchasers  be- 
come discriminating  and  intelligent  on  the  subject. 

The  distance  at  which  stocks  should  be  planted  in  the 
nursery  rows  is  governed  entirely  by  circumstances.  If 
it  is  intended  to  use  a  cultivator  between  the  rows,  they 
should  not  be  less  than  three  and  a  half  feet  apart.  If 
spade  and  hoe  culture  be  intended,  two  and  a  half  to 
three  feet  will  be  sufficient.  Where  the  trees  are  to  be 
removed  at  the  age  of  one  year,  one  foot  apart  in  the  rows 
is  sufficient ;  but  if  they  are  to  remain  until  two,  three,  or 
four  years,  they  should  be  eighteen  inches  to  two  feet.  If 
removed  at  two  years,  eighteen  inches  is  enough  ;  but 
where  standards  remain  three  or  four  years,  until  they 
have  heads  formed,  and  pyramids  remain  until  they  have 
7 


146  THE    NURSERY. 

formed  two  or  three  tiers  of  lateral  branches,  two  feet,  or 
two  and  a  half,  is  little  enough.  Indeed,  when  pyramids 
remain  for  three  years,  there  should  be  a  clear  space — 
three  feet — on  all  sides.  The  usual  nursery  practice  is, 
rows  three  and  a  half  feet  apart ;  trees  in  rows,  one  to 
one  and  a  half  feet  apart. 

Dwarf  standards  require  less  space  than  full  stand- 
ards, and  dwarf  bushes  still  less.  The  stocks  intended 
for  these  different  classes  of  trees  should  be  planted  sepa- 
rately. In  sorting  the  stocks,  at  the  time  of  dressing,  the 
larger  should  be  used  for  full  standards,  and  the  smaller 
for  low  or  dwarf  standards. 

8th.  Mode  of  Planting. — The  square  or  plot  of  ground 
for  each  class  of  stocks  being  ready,  a  line  is  stretched 
along  one  side,  and  a  trench  opened  with  the  spade,  deep 
and  wide  enough  to  hold  the  roots ;  the  plant  is  then  held 
against  the  side  of  the  trench,  next  the  line,  by  one  man, 
whilst  the  earth  is  filled  in  by  another ;  when  about  half 
the  earth  is  in,  it  is  trodden  down  pretty  firmly  by  the 
foot,  and  the  remainder  filled  in.  As  buds  are  usually 
inserted  on  the  north  side  of  the  stocks,  they  should  in- 
cline, if  at  all,  slightly  to  the  south.  Good  pulverized 
surface  soil  should  always  be  put  upon  the  roots,  to  induce 
the  immediate  formation  of  young  fibres.  During  the 
planting,  the  roots  must  be  carefully  guarded  from  ex- 
posure. A  few  only  should  be  taken  out  of  the  ground 
at  a  time.  When  there  are  but  few  fibrous  roots,  pud- 
dling in  thin  mud  is  useful,  otherwise  not.  Some  nursery- 
men open  the  trenches  with  a  plow  instead  of  the  spade ; 
and  some  plant  all  kinds  of  stock  with  the  dibble.  We 
do  not  practise  either. 

Planting  Hoot  Grafts. — The  quickest  mode  of  plant- 
ing small  root  grafts  is  to  stretch  a  line  along  the  ground 
to  be  planted,  and,  with  a  dibble,  make  the  holes,  and 
press  the  earth  in  around  the  plants.  This  dibble  should 
be  twelve  to  eighteen  inches  long,  about  two  inches  in 


BUDDING,    GRAFTING,  ETC.  147 

diameter,  pointed  and  shod  with  iron.  Fig.  88  represents 
one  made  of  the  handle  of  a  spade.  Figure  89  shows  a 
dibble,  such  as  is  sold  by  the  dealers  in  implements.  It 
is  made  from  a  stick,  with  a  natural  curve  at  one  end,  to 
conveniently  fit  the  hand,  and  is  furnished 
at  the  other  end  with  an  iron  point.  One 
person  will  plant  as  many  in  this  way 
as  four  could  by  opening  trenches  with 
spades.  But  where  the  plants  are  dib- 
bled in,  the  ground  must  be  in  the  best 
condition — perfectly  dry,  and  finely  pul- 
verized. 

Treatment  of  Stocks  after  Planting. —  Fig.  88.— 
The  principal  care   which   stocks  require   Dp^E 
between  the  time  they  are    planted   and    ROOT-     Fig.  89.— 

.,  .  ,  ,        -,  -.      ,      .  -.  ,         GRAFTS.        DIBBLE. 

the  time  they  are  budded  is  to  keep  the 
ground  about  them  clear  of  weeds,  and  in  a  friable, 
porous  condition  on  the  surface,  by  frequent  stirring.  A 
good  rule  is  to  run  the  cultivator  or  horse-hoe  through 
them  once  a  week.  The  success  of  budding  depends,  in  a 
great  measure,  on  the  condition  of  the  stocks.  They 
must  be  in  a  thrifty,  growing  state,  and  this  can  only  be 
obtained  with  good  treatment.  Having  now  considered, 
in  as  much  detail  as  seems  necessary,  the  propagation  and 
transplanting  of  stocks  into  the  nursery  rows,  we  proceed 
with 

SECTION   4. — THE    BUDDING,    GRAFTING,    AND   MANAGE- 
MENT OF  TREES  IN  THE  NURSERY, 

The  simplest  and  clearest  method  of  treating  this  part 
of  the  subject,  seems  to  be  that  of  considering,  separate- 
ly, each  year's  operations  in  succession. 

THE  FIRST  YEAR. — Strong  yearling  seedlings  of  the 
apple,  pear,  cherry,  and  plum,  say  one-fourth  of  an  inch 
and  upwards  in  diameter,  and  well-rooted  layers  of  the 


148  THE    NURSERY. 

quince,  Paradise,  and  Doucin,  of  the  same  size,  planted 
in  the  spring,  in  a  good  soil,  and  kept  under  good,  clean 
culture,  will,  as  a  general  thing,  be  in  a  fit  state  for  bud- 
ding in  July,  August,  or  September,  following.  The 
budding  may,  therefore,  be  considered  as  the  first  season's 
work.  The  details  of  this  operation  may  be  divided  for 
consideration  as  follows : 

1st.  Time  for  Budding.  2d.  Preparation  of  the 
Stocks.  3d.  Insertion  of  the  JBuds.  4th.  Untying. 

1st.  The  time  for  budding  each  species  or  class  of  fruits 
depends  upon  its  habits  of  growth.  Such  as  cease  to 
grow  early  in  the  season,  must  be  budded  early,  as  soon 
as  mature  buds  can  be  had;  because  it  can  only  be  done 
while  the  stocks  are  in  a  free,  growing  state,  full  of  sap. 
Such  as  grow  until  late  in  the-  autumn,  must  be  budded 
late,  otherwise  the  new  layers  of  wood,  formed  after  the 
insertion  of  the  bud,  would  grow  over  and  destroy  it,  or 
the  bud  would  be  forced  into  a  premature  growth  towards 
autumn,  which,  in  fruit-trees,  should  always  be  avoided. 
The  common  sorts  of  plum  terminate  their  growth  early 
in  the  season,  and  are  therefore,  budded  early,  whether 
with  plums,  peaches,  or  apricots;  at  Rochester,  usually 
about  the  last  of  July,  or  beginning  of  August.  The  na- 
tive or  Canada  plum,  and  the  Cherry  plum  (Myrobalan), 
grow  freely  until  late  in  the  fall,  and  may  be  budded  in 
the  latter  end  of  August  or  beginning  of  September. 
Pears  on  pear  stocks  are  usually  budded  here  in  July,  in 
anticipation  of  the  leaf-blight,  which  stops  their  growth 
when  it  attacks  them.  Where  no  such  thing  as  this  is  ap- 
prehended, they  should  not  be  budded  before  the  middle 
of  August,  as  the  buds  are  not  generally  mature  until  that 
time.  Apples  on  free  stocks,  and  on  the  Paradise  and 
Doucin,  may  be  budded  as  soon  as  the  buds  are  mature, 
which  is  usually,  here,  about  the  first  to  the  middle  of  Au- 
gust. Cherries  on  free  Mazzard  stocks,  as  soon  as  buds 
are  ripe ;  here,  about  the  first  of  August.  Pears  on  quince, 


BUDDING,    GRAFTING,    ETC.  149 

and  Cherries  on  Mahaleb,  about  the  first  of  September, 
and  from  that  to  the  middle  of  the  month;  as  the  quince 
and  Mahaleb  grow  late,  especially  the  latter.  Peach 
stocks  should  always  be  budded  the  same  season  the 
seeds  are  planted,  and,  as  they  grow  rapidly,  until  very 
late,  are  not  usually  budded  until  between  the  first  and 
middle  of  September.  The  budding  period  varies  in  dif- 
ferent seasons.  In  a  dry,  warm  season,  the  young  wood 
matures  earlier,  and  stocks  cease  to  grow  sooner,  and  are, 
therefore,  budded  earlier  than  in  a  cool,  moist  season,  that 
prolongs  the  growth  of  the  stocks  and  retards  the  ma- 
turity of  the  buds.  Stocks  growing  feebly,  require  to  be 
budded  earlier  than  those  growing  freely.  It  is  necessary 
to  keep  an  eye  to  all  these  points. 

The  destruction  of  insects  must  be  strictly  attended  to. 
An  army  of  slugs  may  devour  the  foliage  of  the  pear 
and  cherry,  and  even  the  plum,  in  a  day  or  two,  and  pre- 
vent their  being  worked  that  season.  The  aphis,  too,  fre- 
quently appears  in  such  multitudes  as  to  check  growth. 
Dry  lime  or  ashes  thrown  on  the  slugs,  will  kill  them  ; 
and  strong  soap-suds,  or  tobacco  water  so  strong  as  to 
assume  the  color  of  strong  beer,  will  kill  the  aphis. 

2d.  Preparation  of  the  Stocks. — This  consists  in  re- 
moving such  lateral  shoots  from  the  stock  as  may  be 
likely  to  obstruct  the  insertion  of  the  bud.  Our  practice 
is  to  do  this  at  the  moment  of  budding,  one  person  doing 
the  work  in  advance  of  the  budders.  If  done  a  few  days 
previous,  and  several  'shoots  are  removed,  it  checks  the 
growth  of  the  stocks,  and  they  do  not  work  so  well.  It 
might  answer  very  well  to  do  it  two  or  three  weeks  pre- 
vious, so  that  they  might  recover  from  the  check  before 
being  budded. 

3d.  Insertion  of  the  Bud. — Having  treated  so  fully  of 
the  manner  of  preparing  and  inserting  the  buds  in  the 
article  on  budding,  nothing  farther  need  be  said  on  these 
points  here. 


150  THE    NURSEBT. 

In  free  stocks,  the  bud  should  be  inserted  within  three 
or  four  inches  of  the  ground. 

In  some  parts  of  the  West — Wisconsin,  Illinois — and 
some  other  places,  certain  rapid,  late-growing,  and  rather 
tender  varieties  are  liable  to  be  winter-killed  if  budded 
close  to  the  ground ;  probably  by  the  sudden  thawing  of 
that  part,  caused  by  the  reflection  of  heat  from  the  ground. 
In  view  of  such  a  difficulty,  it  may  be  well  enough  to  bud 
sufficiently  high  to  avoid  this,  provided  a  stock  known  to 
be  perfectly  hardy  can  be  obtained ;  but,  as  a  general  thing, 
low  budding  makes  the  best  trees.  All  dwarf  stocks 
should  be  budded  as  close  to  the  surface  of  the  ground 
as  it  is  possible ;  and  even  some  of  the  earth  may  be  re- 
moved and  put  back  when  the  budding  is  done.  The 
necessity  for  this  lies  in  the  fact  that  all  dwarf  stocks 
should  be  wholly  below  the  ground  when  finally  planted 
out  in  the  garden  or  orchard. 

4th.  Untying  the  Buds. — In  ten  days  or  a  fortnight 
after  the  buds  are  inserted,  they  should  be  examined,  and 
such  as  have  failed  may  be  budded  again  if  the  stocks 
continue  to  grow.  In  some  cases,  it  may  be  necessary, 
and  particularly  with  cherries,  to  loosen  the  buds  and  tie 
them  over  again ;  as  rapid  growth  will  cause  the  string  to 
cut  the  bark  before  the  bud  has  completely  united,  or  is 
fit  to  be  untied.  This  seldom  occurs,  however  ;  as  a  gen- 
eral thing,  the  strings  may  be  removed  in  three  weeks  to 
a  month  after  the  budding;  and  they  should  never  be 
left  on  over  the  winter,  as  moisture  lodges  around  them, 
to  the  detriment  of  the  bud.  As  soon  as  the  budding  is 
done,  the  ground  should  be  worked  over  with  the  culti- 
vator or  forked  spade.  The  first  season's  management 
of  stocks  too  small  for  budding  consists  simply  in  keep- 
ing the  soil  clean  and  mellow,  and  in  guarding  against 
the  attacks  of  insects. 

The  treatment  of  root  grafts  the  first  season  consists  in 
clearing  and  loosening  the  ground,  the  removal  of  suckers 


BUDDING,    GRAFTING,    ETC.  151 

from  the  roots  as  fast  as  they  appear,  and  pinching  early 
any  strong  side  shoots  likely  to  weaken  the  leader. 

SECOND  YEAK. — Where  the  buds  failed  the  previous 
season,  the  stocks  should  now  be  whip-grafted  near  the 
surface  of  the  ground.  They  will  be  but  little  behind  the 
buds,  and  will  make  nearly  as  good  trees,  if  neatly  done. 
Plums  and  cherries  must  be  done  before,  or  as  soori  as  the 
buds  begin  to  swell  (say  in  March,  here) ;  pears  and  ap- 
ples may  be  <lone  later.  The  second-sized  stocks,  planted 
last  season,  and  intended  to  be  budded  this,  should,  it' in  a 
feebly  growing  or  stunted  condition,  be  cut  back  to  within 
two  or  three  inches  of  the  surface  of  the  ground.  This 
will  give  the  roots  new  vigor,  and  thrifty  shoots  will  be 
made,  by  budding  time,  that  will  work  more  easily  and 
successfully  than  the  old  stock.  In  a  month  or  so  after 
being  cut  down,  all  the  shoots  but  the  strongest  one 
should  be  removed.  The  stocks  budded  last  season  are 
headed  down  to  within  three  or  four  inches  of  the  bud, 
just  as  the  leaves  are  beginning  to  appear ;  and  all  buds 
starting  into  growth  on  the  stock,  either  below  or  above 
them,  are  rubbed  off. 

Treatment  of  the  growing  bud  consists  in  keeping  all 
shoots  that  appear  on  the  stock  rubbed  off.  If  side  shoots 
appear  early,  and  are  likely  to  contract  the  growth  of  the 
leader,  they  should  be  pinched  off.  Any  that  assume  a 
reclining  or  crooked  habit  should  be  tied  up  to  the  stock, 
or  to  a  support,  which  may  be  a  wooden  pole,  four  feet 
long,  sunk  a  foot  in  the  ground,  at  the  root  of  the  stock ; 
both  the  stock  and  growing  shoot  should  be  fastened  to 
it  (fig.  90),  but  not  so  close  as  to  impede  the  growth. 
This  is  only  necessary  with  certain  weak,  irregular  grow- 
ing sorts.  In  August,  the  portion  of  the  stock  left  above 
the  bud,  at  the  heading  down  in  the  spring,  should  be  re- 
moved with  a  sloping  cut,  close  and  smooth,  as  at  A  (fig. 
90),  at  the  highest  point  of  union  between  the  bud  and 
stock.  The  new  layers  of  wood  made  after  this  time 


152  THE    NURSERY. 

cover  the  wound  before  growth  ceases  in  the  fall.  Side 
shoots,  when  they  appear,  must  be  checked,  if  too  vigor- 
ous, by  pinching  off  their  ends,  but  not  entirely  removed, 
as  they  assist  in  giving  size  and  strength  to  the  lower 
part  of  the  body  of  the  young  tree.  The  peach  almost 
invariably  produces  numerous  side  branches 
the  first  season,  and  it  is  a  very  common  but 
very  erroneous  practice  to  prune  these  all 
off  in  midsummer.  The  proper  course  is  to 
maintain  a  uniform  vigor  amongst  them  by 
pinching,  and  to  prevent  any  from  encroach- 
ing on  the  leading  shoot  ;  in  this  way  we 
get  stout,  well-proportioned  trees.  This 
brings  us  to  the  end  of  the  second  year,  and 
gives  us  young  trees  of  one  year's  growth. 
Peach  trees  should  always  be  planted  out  at 
this  age,  and  all  trees  intended  for  training 
in  particular  forms  ;  but  as  this  part  of  the 
subject  will  be  considered  under  the  head 
.  .  of  "  Selection  of  Trees"  we  will  proceed  to 

A  young  budded  J 

tree  in   its  first  the  course  of  management  for  the 


growth,      THIRD  YEAR.—  We  commence  this    year 

supported     by    a  J 

stake.    The  line  with  trees  of  one  year  s  growth,  and  the  first 


at    A    indicates  pOmt    is   to   determine  what  form  is  to  be 

the  cutting  away     . 

of  the  stock  close  given  them  —  whether  tall  or  awarj  stand- 
to  the  bud.  ards^pyramids,  bushes,  or  espaliers.  Having 

settled  these  matters,  we  have  but  to  follow  up  the  proper 
course  to  accomplish  the  desired  ends.  It  may  be  well  to 
take  each  of  these  forms  in  succession,  and  point  out  the 
necessary  management  under  various  circumstances. 

1st.  Standards.  —  Until  very  lately,  trees  of  all  sorts, 
and  for  every  situation,  were  grown  as  tall  standards,  with 
naked  trunks,  six,  and  even  eight  feet  high.  Indeed,  it 
appeared  as  though  an  impression  existed  amongst  people 
that  a  .tree  was  not  in  reality  a  tree,  nor  worthy  of  a  place 
on  their  grounds,  if  it  had  not  this  particular  form.  Lat- 


BUDDING,    GRAFTING,    ETC.  153 

terly  however,  since  fruit-tree  culture  has  become  more 
practised,  and  somewhat  better  understood,  this  impres- 
sion has  been  gradually  losing  ground,  and  in  all  parts  of 
the  country  low  trees  are  finding  advocates. 

Experience  is  beginning  to  teach  people  that,  whilst  tall 
standards  in  an  orchard  possess  the  single  advantage  of 
admitting  the  operations  of  the  plow  under  the  branches, 
low  standards  are  much  more  secure  against  the  numerous 
fatal  diseases  that  attack  the  trunks,  are  much  more  ac- 
cessible for  the  performance  of  all  the  necessary  details 
of  management  and  for  the  gathering  of  the  fruit,  and 
are  less  exposed  to  damage  from  high  winds. 

These  are  all  very  important  advantages,  certainly ;  but 
the  most  important  one  is  the  safety  of  the  tree  against 
diseases  of  the  trunk.  In  all  parts  of  this  country  we 
have  a  powerful  sun  in  summer,  and  in  winter  and  spring 
sudden  and  violent  changes  from  one  extreme  to  another; 
and  experience  has  shown  that  the  trunk  and  large 
branches,  being  fully  exposed  to  all  external  influences, 
are  generally  the  parts  first  attacked  with  disease.  Cul- 
tivators are,  of  course,  at  liberty  to  choose  for  themselves; 
but,  except  to  meet  the  wants  of  some  particular  circum- 
stances, no  standard  tree  should  have  a  branchless  stem 
above  Jive  feet  in  height ;  four  is  preferable  for  all,  ex- 
cept orchards  of  common  apples  for  cider  or  stock.  Trees 
with  heads  only  four  feet  from  the  ground  are  always 
easy  of  access,  and  the  natural  spread  of  the  branches  af- 
fords a  great  protection'  to  the  trunk  at  all  seasons.  Nur- 
serymen should  by  all  means  encourage,  by  precept  and 
example,  the  cultivation  of  low-headed  trees. 

Starting  with  the  yearling  trees  for  standards,  we 
examine  the  habit  of  the  variety,  whether  stont  or  slen- 
der; whether  branched,  as  many  varieties  are  the  first 
season,  or  without  branches.  Before  proceeding  to  the 
operation  of  cutting  down  to  increase  the  size  of  the 
trunk,  the  reader  is  referred  to  the  principles  and  prac- 


154 


THE    NURSERY. 


n 


91 


tices  of  pruning  in  the  first  part  of  the  work.  (Part  I, 
Chapter  V.)  No  pruning  should  be  attempted  for  the 
attainment  of  any  special  purpose  without  having  first 
carefully  studied  these. 

If  slender,  and  without  side  branches,  as 
they  should  be  cut  back  twelve 
to  twenty  inches,  as  at  A' 
this  removes  the  buds  that 
would  push  first,  and  retains 
the  sap  in  the  lower  parts, 
which  will  give  a  stout  body. 
The  taller  and  more  slender 
the  tree,  and  the  smaller  the 
buds,  the  farther  it  becomes 
necessary  to  cut  back.  In 
fact,  some  very  feeble-grow- 
ing sorts  must  be  cut  back 
until  within  a  foot  or  less  of 
the  base.  During  the  sum- 
mer, trees  cut  back  in  this  way 
may  produce  lateral  shoots 
on  the  greater  part  of  their 
length.  These  must  not  be 
pruned  off,  but  kept  in  a 
uniform  size  and  vigor  by 
pinching  any  that  threaten  to 
exceed  their  proper  bounds. 
The  shoots  immediately  below 
the  leader  must  be  watched, 

as  they  are  always  inclined  to    and   C,  the  cutting    back  for  pyra- 

push  too  strongly.  ™^s  bLklor^a^or^ulrs! 

A   tree    thus    CUt   back,  and    Fig.  92,  a  young  tree  once  cut  back 
the     Side     branches     regulated    to  form  trunk  for  a  standard. 

by  pinching,  will,  in  the  fall,  have  a  stout  body,  and  pre- 
sent the  appearance  of  fig.  92.  Where  the  yearlings  are 
short  and  stout,  and  are  furnished  with  a  few  lateral 


Fi 


Figs.  91  and  92. 

91,  a   yearling   tree;   to  the 


BUDDING,    GRAFTING,    ETC.  155 

shoots,  cutting  back  may  be  unnecessary.  The  largest 
of  the  side  shoots  may  be  pruned  off  wholly ;  and  the 
smajl  ones  left  to  retain  the  sap  in  the  lower  part  of  the 
stem,  at  least  until  midsummer,  when  new  ones  will  have 
been  produced.  There  are  certain  stout-growing,  branch- 
ing varieties  of  all  the  fruits  that  require  no  shortening, 
and  very  little  pruning  of  any  kind,  to  form  stout  trunks, 
when  not  planted  too  close. 

Dwarf  Standards. — The  management  of  yearling  buds 
to  produce  these,  is  similar  to  that  described  for  standards, 
varying  it  always  to  suit  the  particular  habit  of  the  spe- 
cies or  variety  ;  tall,  slender-growing  sorts  require  cutting 
back,  and  the  suppression  of  branches  at  the  top ;  but 
many  varieties  of  cherries  and  plums,  some  very  stout- 
growing  pears  and  apples,  and  all  apricots  and  peaches, 
may  commence  the  formation  of  heads  this  season.  The 
stem  is  cut  at  the  point  desired,  two  to  three  feet  from  the 
ground,  to  form  the  head  on ;  and  three  or  four  of  the 
stoutest  shoots,  growing  in  opposite  directions,  are  pre- 
served, whilst  all  others,  close  to  them,  are  pinched  off 
when  two  or  three  inches  long ;  side  branches  are  allowed 
to  remain  that  season  on  the  stem  to  strengthen  it,  but 
they  are  kept  short  and  regular  by  pinching.  In  the  fall 
these  trees  will  be  fit  for  the  final  planting  out,  whilst 
those  of  weaker  habit  will  require  another  season,  if  heads 
are  wanted. 

Pyramids. — Yearling  trees,  intended  for  pyramids,  are 
cut  back  so  far  as  to  insure  the  production  of  vigorous 
side  branches  within  six  or  eight  inchos  of  the  stock.  The 
habits  of  growth  of  the  species  and  variety  must  be  care- 
fully taken  into  account.  Some  are  disposed,  from  the 
beginning,  to  form  lateral  branches ;  and  others  require 
vigorous  measures  to  force  them  to  do  so.  As  examples, 
the  Bloodgood  pear  is  very  much  inclined  to  branch  the 
first  year,  whilst  the  Louise  Bonne  de  Jersey  and  Duchess 
d'Angouleme  seldom  do  so,  unless  in  some  way  the  grow- 


156  THE    NURSERY. 

ing  point  be  checked.  So  it  is  in  cherries ;  most  of  the 
Dukes  and  Morellos  are  inclined  to  produce  laterals  the 
first  season ;  but  the  free-growing  sorts,  Hearts  and  JBi- 
garreaus,  rarely  do  so,  unless  the  point  is  checked  early  in 
the  season.  So  it  is  in  all  the  fruits,  and  therefore  no  gen- 
eral rule  can  be  given  ;  but  the  appearance  of  the  tree  indi- 
cates the  treatment  required.  Where  we  see  side  branches 
naturally  produced  the  first  season,  we  at  once  conclude 
that  the  buds  are  well  disposed  to  break,  and  the  cutting 
back  may  be  comparatively  light.  Where  no  side 
branches  are  produced,  we  must  be  governed  by  the 
appearance  of  the  buds  on  the  lower  part  of  the  tree, 
where  it  is  desired  to  produce  the  lower  branches ;  if  they 
be  small  and  flat,  it  will  take  close  cutting  to  arouse  them ; 
but  if  plump  and  prominent,  less  vigorous  measures  will 
be  necessary.  In  the  case  of  short,  stout,  and  branched 
yearlings,  a  few  of  the  best  placed,  lowest,  and  strongest 
branches  are  reserved,  whilst  the  others  are  entirely  re- 
moved. We  then  shorten  the  reserved  branches  accord- 
ing to  their  position,  leaving  the  lowest  the  longest.  The 
leading  shoot  is  shortened,  so  that  all  the  buds  left  will  be 
sure  to  push  and  form  shoots.  When  these  have  attained 
the  length  of  two  or  three  inches,  the  strongest  and  best 
placed  are  selected  for  permanent  branches,  and  the  others 
are  pinched  off. 

Yearlings  that  have  no  side  branches  (fig.  91),  we  gen- 
erally cut  back  one-half,  as  to  JB,  and,  in  many  cases,  two- 
thirds,  to  (7,  in  order  to  obtain  strong  branches  near  the 
ground.  Almost  every  bud,  below  the  one  we  cut  to, 
should  push  ;  and  when  shoots  of  two  inches  or  so  are 
made,  we  select  two,  three,  or  such  number  as  may  be 
wanted,  of  the  strongest  and  best  situated,  to  be  reserved, 
and  pinch  the  others.  It  very  generally  happens  that  two 
or  three  buds  next  below  the  one  we  cut  to,  push  with 
such  vigor  as  to  injure  both  the  leading  shoot  above  and 
the  side  shoots  below  them.  They  must  be  watched,  and 


BUDDHSTG,    GRAFTING,    ETC. 


157 


pinched    as  soon    as    this  disposition    becomes   obvious. 

Yearling  trees  managed  in  this  way  will  present,  in  the 

fall,  the  appearance  of  fig.  93. 

Purchasers  are  very  apt  to  favor  tall  trees  even  at  the 

expense  of  their  forms ;  and  nurserymen,  even  those  who 
know  better,  with  a  view  to  suiting 
the  tastes  of  their  customers,  rarely 
cut  their  trees  back  sufficiently  to 
make  pyramids.  The  first  branches 
are  seldom  less  than  two  feet  from 
the  ground,  and  it  is  quite  difficult  to 
make  real  pyramids  of  such  trees  af- 
terwards ;  at  all  events,  it  incurs  a 
great  loss  of  time,  for  the  whole  of 
the  branches  and  half  of  the  stem 
must  be  cut  away  to  produce  the 
required  form. 

Dwarf  Bushes. — The  apple  on 
Paradise  is  generally  grown  in  this 
form — with  six  to  twelve  inches  of 
a  stem,  and  spreading  heads.  The 
Morello  cherry,  and  the  cherry,  or 
Fig.  93.  Mirabelle  plums,  and  many  kinds  of 

Fig.  93,  a  two-year-old  pears,    may    be    grown     as    dwarf 

^tS£%Z£*£  b«shes>    if   Desirable.      The     stocks 

cross   lines    indicate   the  must  all    be  of   a   dwarf  character. 

Plants,    from    which    the    strongest 

have  been  selected  for  dwarf  standards  and  pyramids, 
will  make  very  good  bushes.  The  branches  being 
so  near  the  root,  renders  a  less  amount  of  vigor  neces- 
sary. Very  strong  yearling  plants  may  be  allowed  to 
form  heads  the  second  year,  but  such  as  are  very  slen- 
der, will  require  cutting  back  and  another  season's  growth 
before  the  head  is  allowed  to  form ;  and  they  will  require 
a  similar  course  of  treatment  as  has  been  recommended 
for  standards  and  dwarf  standards.  No  matter  what  the 


158  THE    NURSERY. 

character  of  the  tree  is,  a  stout  stem  is  necessary ;  and, 
although  the  measures  taken  to  obtain  this  seem,  to  re- 
quire, in  some  cases,  a  loss  of  time,  still  there  is  a  gain  in 
the  end  ;  for  trees  allowed  to  form  heads  before  the  stems 
are  amply  sufficient  to  support  them,  require  a  great  deal 
of  extra  care  after  planting  out,  and  a  course  of  shorten- 
ing back,  that  offsets  the  temporary  advantage  of  forming 
the  head  a  year  sooner.  This  holds  good  in  all  cases. 
The  mode  of  forming  the  heads  of  dwarf  bushes  is  simi- 
lar to  that  described  for  standards. 

^Espalier  Trees. — These  have  a  few  advantages  peculiar 
to  themselves,  which  will  be  explained  under  the  head 
of  "  the  selection  of  trees  for  the  garden." 

To  form  espaliers,  yearling  trees  are  usually  chosen, 
planted  in  the  place  where  they  are  to  remain,  and  cut 
back  to  within  four  or  five  buds  of  the  stocks,  as  at  D, 
fig.  91 ;  these  buds  break  and  produce  shoots,  from  which 
the  strongest  are  chosen  to  form  the  arms,  and  the  others 
are  rubbed  off. 

The  peach  grows  so  vigorously  that,  if  the  growing 
bud  be  checked  when  a  foot  high,  it  will  produce  side 
shoots,  from  which  two  may  be  selected  from  the  main 
branches  of  the  espalier,  and  thus  a  year  will  be  saved. 
Another  way  is  to  insert  two  buds,  one  on  each  side  of 
the  stock.  Very  nice  espalier  trees  may  be  grown  in 
the  form  of  a  pyramid,  with  a  main  stem  and  lateral 
branches,  the  lowest  being  the  longest.  I  have  seen  the 
pear  grown  in  this  form  very  successfully.  Trees  for  this 
form  require  the  same  management  as  pyramids,  except 
that  the  branches  should  be  placed  opposite  on  two  sides. 
This  brings  us  to  the  end  of  the  third  year,  and  the  trees 
are  now  two  years  old  from  the  bud.  At  this  age  we 
take  it  for  granted  that  ,all  trees  on  dwarf  stocks  for  pyra- 
mids, dwarfs,  and  espaliers,  and  all  standards  even,  of 
the  peach,  apricot,  and  nectarine,  and,  in  most  cases,  the 
cherry  and  plum,  will  be  finally  planted  out.  Standard 


TREATMENT    OF    SOIL.  159 

pears  and  apples  are  almost  the  only  trees  that  require  to 
be  left  longer  in  the  nursery ;  and  their  management 
during  the  third  and  fourth  years  of  their  growth,  if 
allowed  to  remain  so  long,  will  be  similar  to  that  de- 
scribed for  the  second.  In  the  spring,  February,  or 
March,  the  leading  shoot  is  cut  back,  in  order  to  increase 
the  stoutness  of  the  stem  as  it  advances  in  height ;  and, 
during  the  summer,  the  side  shoots  are  kept  of  uniform 
length  and  vigor  by  pinching.  The  lower  side  branches 
are  removed  gradually,  every  season,  as  the  tree  becomes 
strong  enough  to  dispense  with  them.  As  it  has  been  be- 
fore remarked,  the  cutting  back  depends  always  on  the 
natural  character  of  the  subject.  Stout,  short-jointed, 
moderate  growing  sorts,  that  naturally  increase  in  height 
and  diameter  of  stem  in  proper  proportions,  will  require 
no  cutting  back.  Very  few,  however,  have  this  habit. 
In  nearly  all  cases,  more  or  less  shortening-in,  every 
spring,  is  necessary,  until  the  stem  has  arrived  at  the 
requisite  height,  and  is  well  proportioned,  decreasing 
gradually  in  diameter  from  the  base  to  the  top. 

The  Treatment  of  the  Soil. — During  the  whole  period 
the  trees  remain  in  the  nursery,  the  ground  about  them 
must  be  kept  clean  and  finely  pulverized  on  the  surface 
by  repeated  and  continual  stirring.  Every  spring,  as  soon 
as  the  heavy  rains  are  over,  and  the  ground  is  settled  and 
dry,  the  space  between  the  rows  should  be  plowed,  if 
they  are  far  enough  apart  to  admit  of  it.  A  small  one- 
horse  plow,  such  as  is  used  for  plowing  cornfields  (see 
implements),  is  suitable,  but  it  should  not  be  allowed  to  go 
nearer  than  six  inches  to  the  tree,  nor  so  deep  as  to  come 
in  contact  with  the  roots.  After  plowing,  the  cultivator 
may  be  run  through  once  each  way  between  the  rows, 
every  week  or  two,  and  this  will  leave  very  little  hoeing 
to  be  done.  If  the  rows  are  so  close  as  not  to  admit  the 
plow  and  cultivator,  the  forked  spade  must  be  used  in 
the  spring,  to  give  the  ground  a  thorough  stirring,  and 


160  THE    NURSERY. 

afterwards  the  hoe.  If  the  ground  be  naturally  adhesive, 
a  second  or  even  a  third  plowing  or  spading  may  be 
necessary  in  the  course  of  the  summer ;  for  it  must,  at  all 
times,  be  kept  in  a  loose,  porous  condition,  or  the  roots 
will  be  deprived  of  the  benefits  of  the  air  and  moisture. 
Stirring  the  ground  so  often  that  weeds  barely  make 
their  appearance  is  not  only  the  best  but  most  economical 
culture. 

It  need  scarcely  be  added  that,  in  using  the  plow  or 
cultivator  among  trees,  a  very  short  whiffle-tree  should 
be  used,  the  horse  should  be  gentle  and  steady,  and  the 
plowman  both  careful  and  skillful ;  and  laborers  who  use 
the  spade  or  hoe  should  be  duly  cautioned  against  cutting 
or  bruising  the  trees  with  their  implements. 

SECTION  5. — PROPAGATION  AND  XURSERY  CULTURE  OF 
SEVERAL  FRUIT-TREES  AND  SHRUBS  NOT  USUALLY 
GRAFTED  OR  BUDDED. 

1st.  The  Grape. — During  the  last  ten  years,  the  culture 
of  hardy  grapes  has  made  great  progress  in  the  United 
States.  The  demand  for  vines  has,  consequently,  been 
very  great,  so  that  nurserymen  and  grape  growers  have 
resorted  to  every  method  of  propagation  that  skill  and 
ingenuity  could  suggest. 

I  think  it  may  be  truly  said  that  a  single  establishment 
has  produced  as  many  vines  in  one  season  as  all  the  nurse- 
ries in  the  Union  did  twenty  years  ago. 

Grafting,  layering  of  ripe  wood  and  green  wood,  long 
cuttings,  eyes,  both  of  ripe  wood  and  green  wood,  culture 
in  the  open  air  and  under  glass — some  employing  one, 
and  some  the  other,  and  some  all  of  these  combined. 

I  shall  proceed  to  describe,  briefly,  each  of  these 
methods. 

(1.)  Layering,  which  is  the  most  simple,  and  the  surest 
for  unpractised  hands.  There  are  two  modes  of  layering, 
one  of  the  ripe  wood,  and  the  other  of  the  green.  The 


THE    GKAPE.  161 

first  is  performed  by  laying  down,  in  the  spring,  a  shoot 
or  cane  of  last  seasons  growth,  bedding  it  in  the  ground, 
and  covering  it  two  inches  or  so  in  depth.  A  young 
plant  will  be  produced  from  every  eye,  or  joint.  In  the 
fall  the  cane  is  lifted,  and  the  young  plants  separated 
from  one  another  by  cutting  between  the  joints.  This 
makes  very  good  plants. 

Layering  the  Green  Wood  is  performed  by  laying 
down,  in  midsummer,  a  shoot  or  cane  of  the  current  sea- 
son's growth  in  the  manner  described  in  the  article  on 
propagation,  page  87,  fig.  64. 

(2.)  Long  Cuttings. — This  is  the  common,  well-known, 
old-fashioned  method  of  propagating  the  hardy  grapes ; 
and  is,  on  the  whole,  perhaps,  the  cheapest  and  best  in  all 
ordinary  cases.  It  is  done  in  this  way :  The  strongest, 
roundest,  and  ripest  shoots,  or  canes,  of  the  previous  sea- 
son's growth,  are  selected,  and  cut  into  pieces  twelve  to 
eighteen  inches  in  length ;  having  two  or  three  eyes,  or 
buds,  as  in  fig.  62. 

They  are  cut  close  to  an  eye  at  the  lower  end,  tied  up 
in  bundles  of  convenient  size,  and  may  be  buried  in  sand, 
in  a  cold  cellar,  until  the  frost  is  out  of  the  ground,  in  the 
spring,  when  they  can  be  set  in  a  trench  in  the  ground, 
exposed  to  the  south,  in  the  bundles,  lower  end  up,  and 
covered  four  to  six  inches  deep  with  earth.  Here  they 
can  remain  until  the  ground  is  dry  and  warm,  and  the 
weather  favorable  to  growth.  By  this  time  the  ends  will 
be  calloused,  and,  perhaps,  even  begin  to  emit  roots,  when 
they  may  be  planted. 

In  planting,  the  whole  cutting,  is  buried,  leaving  the 
upper  eye  just  at  or  near  the  surface ;  but  the  cutting  is 
laid  obliquely,  as  in  fig.  62,  so  that  the  lower  part  will 
not  be  too  far  away  from  atmospheric  heat. 

The  summer  culture  will  consist  in  keeping  the  ground 
clean  and  mellow ;  and  if  only  one  shoot  is  allowed  to 
grow,  and  kept  tied  up,  all  the. better. 


J0*3  THE    NURSERY. 

Propagation  from  Eyes. —  The  propagation  of  the 
hardy  grape  from  eyes,  in  the  open  ground,  or  without 
bottom  heat,  is  not  generally  practised,  yet,  with  most 
kinds,  it  may  be  done  with  tolerable  success.  As  in  the 
case  of  the  long  cuttings,  the  rooting  process  should  be 
commenced  before  the  eyes  are  planted  out.  This  is  clone 
by  mixing  with  sand  or  earth  or  moss  in  shallow  boxes, 
and  placing  them  in  a  greenhouse,  or  in  a  frame  with  a 
glazed  sash  over  them,  for  three  or  four  weeks  before  the 
time  of  planting  out.  They  should  not  be  planted  until 
the  ground  is  warm,  and  the  weather  favorable  to  im- 
mediate growth.  The  soil  should  be  dry,  warm,  and  light, 
covering  about  two  inches  deep. 

In  favorable  seasons,  tolerably  good  plants  are  produced 
in  this  way,  especially  of  the  free-growing  sorts. 

The  more  common  way  of  propagating  from  eyes  is  to 
start  them  on  a  bottom  heat,  either  in  propagating  houses 
or  in  hot-beds.  In  houses,  the  bottom  heat  is  furnished 
either  by  hot  water,  circulating  in  tanks,  by  hot- water 
pipes,  or  by  warm-air  flues  of  brick  or  tile,  under  the 
bench,  in  which  the  eyes  are  planted.  Any  and  all  of 
these  modes  of  supplying  bottom  heat  answer  very  well. 

When  the  eyes  are  well  rooted,  they  are  transplanted 
into  good,  rich  soil,  either  in  another  house,  or  in  frame 
covered  with  glass,  or  into  open  borders.  Larger  and  bet- 
ter ripened  plants  will  be  produced  under  glass,  but  at  a 
much  greater  cost.  The  present  system,  however,  of 
crowding  them  so  close  together  in  glass-houses,  and  forc- 
ing their  growth,  produces  very  weak,  poor  plants,  which, 
but  for  the  present  demand  for  new  sorts,  would  be  re- 
garded as  worthies*. 

Propagating  from  Eyes  of  Green  Wood.  —  This 
method  has,  of  late,  been  resorted  to  for  the  purpose  of 
increasing  the  new  high-priced  varieties.  When  a  grape 
is  selling  at  $2  to  $3  per  plant,  the  inducement  to  multi- 
ply it  is  very  great.  Some  people  think  that  good  plants 


THE    GRAPE.  163 

cannot  be  produced  in  this  way ;  but  this  is  an  error.  It 
is  true,  however,  that  very  few  good  plants  are  thus  pro- 
duced. If  only  good,  strong  wood  were  used,  grown  on 
vigorous  plants,  and  so  far  advanced  in  ripeness  as  to  have 
the  eyes  well  developed,  as  good  plants  can  be  grown  in 
this  way  as  from  ripe  wood  eyes.  But  when  weak  shoots 
or  laterals  are  used,  and  when  two  or  three  crops  of  shoots 
or  eyes  are  taken  from  the  same  plants,  by  a  forced  growth, 
the  plants  are  not  good.  No  purchaser  of  ordinary  intel- 
ligence can  be  deceived  with  them.  They  are  generally 
sold  on  account  of  their  cheapness,  and  those  who  buy 
them  on  that  account  should  not  complain.  My  opinion 
is,  in  regard  to  plants,  that  if  they  are  strong,  well  rooted, 
and  well  ripened,  it  is  of  no  consequence  how  they  were 
propagated. 

In  propagating  from  green-wood  cuttings,  the  eyes  are 
prepared  in  the  same  manner  as  ripe-wood  eyes,  but  the 
leaf,  or  a  portion  of  it,  is  left  attached  to  each  one,  and 
they  must  have  a  bottom  heat  of  70°  or  80°,  or  even 
more. 

In  two  or  three  weeks  they  will  be  rooted  sufficiently 
to  bear  transplanting,  and  then  they  are  treated  as  other 
plants  in  the  same  condition  ;  usually,  however,  they  are 
kept  under  glass  until  the  end  of  the  season. 

Grafting. — In  the  case  of  new  and  rare  varieties,  graft- 
ing has  been,  and  is,  employed  with  great  success.  We 
have  grown  Delawares  fifteen  or  sixteen  feet  high,  and  of 
unusual  thickness,  from  the  graft,  in  one  season,  under  glass. 

Very  small  pieces,  say  two  inches,  if  small  roots,  are 
used,  as  the  object  is  merely  to  furnish  a  temporary  sup- 
port to  the  eye,  until  its  own  roots  have  been  produced. 

The  root  is  cut  to  a  wedge  shape  at  the  upper  end,  and 
the  cion,  a  single  eye,  with  about  an  inch  of  wood,  is 
set  on  it  like  a  saddle,  and  tied  with  a  thread. 

The  planting  and  subsequent  treatment  is  just  the  same 
as  for  eyes. 


164  THE    NURSERY. 

It  is  not  my  purpose  to  describe,  in  detail,  all  the  opera- 
tions connected  with  the  propagation  of  the  grape,  but 
to  give  a  general  idea  of  the  several  methods,  and  the 
principles  upon  which  they  are  supposed  to  be  founded. 
Those  who  desire  more  explicit  and  full  information  may 
consult  some  of  the  special  treatises  on  the  grape,  which 
have  recently  been  published. 

The  foreign  varieties  of  the  grape  are  propagated  al- 
most exclusively  from  eyes  of  the  ripe  wood. 

They  are  prepared  and  planted  on  a  bottom  heat,  as 
described  for  the  hardy  sorts. 

The  eyes,  however,  are  usually  put  in  pots — a  single 
eye  in  a  3-inch  pot — when  only  a  small  number  are  to  be 
propagated,  or  several  eyes  may  be  put  in  a  large  pot 
around  the  edges.  On  a  large  scale,  the  eyes  may  be 
planted  directly  on  the  propagating  benches,  or  in  boxes 
containing  several  hundred  eyes. 

The  material  used  to  plant  them  in,  either  in  pots, 
boxes,  or  on  the  benches,  is  almost  pure  sand,  and  the 
eyes  are  inserted  so  that  the  bud  shall  be  nearly  covered. 

Here,  a  steady  temperature  of  70°  or  80°,  and  regular 
watering,  are  indispensable.  When  they  have  made  a 
growth  of  three  or  four  inches,  the  plants  can  be  shifted 
into  pots  of  good,  rich  compost,  and  replaced  on  the  bot- 
tom heat,  watered  regularly,  tied  up,  and  the  laterals 
suppressed ;  they  will  make  fine  plants  in  one  season. 
Towards  autumn,  say  after  1st  of  September,  ample  ven- 
tilation and  little  watering  should  be  given,  so  as  to  pro- 
mote the  ripening  of  the  wood. 

Wintering  the  Young  Plants. — Young  plants  of  the 
hardy  grapes,  whether  grown  in  the  house  or  open -bor- 
der, should  be  allowed  to  stand  in  their  place  until  the 
approach  of  hard  freezing,  so  that  they  may  ripen  as  well 
as  possible. 

They  should  then  be  taken  up,  "  heeled  in,"  laid  in 
trenches  in  dry  soil,  covering  the  roots  and  stem  almost 


THE    CURRANT.  165 

to  the  top  with  earth,  and  then,  over  all,  some  leaves, 
straw,  or  evergreen  branches. 

Young  plants  of  the  foreign  varieties,  grown  in  pots, 
we  usually  winter  in  the  pots,  on  shelves,  in  a  cellar  free 
from  frost ;  but  they  might  be  wintered  in  the  same  way 
as  the  hardy  grapes — shaking  them  out  of  the  pots,  and 
heeling  them  in. 

2d.  The  Currant. — Every  one  knows  how  to  propagate 
this.  A  yearling  shoot,  six  inches  to  a  foot  long,  taken 
off  close  to  the  old  wood,  and  planted  half  or  two-thirds 
its  length  in  the  ground,  in  the  spring,  will  make  a 
strong,  well-rooted  plant  in  the  autumn.  To  prevent 
shoots  from  springing  up  below  the  surface  of  the  ground, 
the  eyes  on  that  part  are  cut  out,  or  they  may  be  left  the 
first  season,  and  cut  out  when  the  plants  are  rooted. 

The  buds  aid  in  the  formation  of  roots.  When  a 
variety  is  rare  and  scarce,  the  young  shoots  may  all  be 
layered  in  July,  and  they  will  make  well-rooted  plants 
in  the  fall. 

3d.  Gooseberries  are  propagated  in  the  same  way,  and 
with  almost  equal  facility,  as  currants,  though,  as  a  gen- 
eral thing,  they  do  not  grow  with  such  rapidity.  Layers 
are  the  surest,  but  they  require  to  be  one  year  in  the 
nursery  rows  after  being  separated  from  the  mother  plant, 
to  make  them  strong  enough  for  the  final  planting.  An 
inch  or  two  of  swamp  moss,  laid  over  the  surface  of  the 
ground  in  which  layers  are  made,  assists  in  retaining  the 
moisture.  This  is  applicable  to  all  kinds  of  layers. 

4th.  Strawberries  are  propagated  by  the  runners,  which 
spread  on  the  surface  of  the  ground,  in  all  directions,  from 
the  plant,  as  soon  as  it  begins  to  grow  in  the  spring. 
Where  a  variety  is  scarce,  and  it  is  desirable  to  multiply 
it  carefully,  these  runners  should  be  sunk  slightly  in  the 
ground,  and  pegged  down,  as  they  will  root  and  form 
plants  for  removal  much  quicker  than  if  left  to  root  in 
their  own  way.  With  good  management,  a  single  plant 


166  THE    NURSERY. 

may  produce  twenty-five  to  fifty,  and  even  one  hundred 
in  one  season.  Plants  to  be  propagated  from  should  have 
abundance  of  space,  and  a  deep,  rich  soil.  An  applica- 
tion of  liquid  manure  will  stimulate  their  vigor,  and  in- 
crease the  number  and  strength  of  the  runners. 

The  Bush  Alpine  varieties,  which  make  no  runners,  are 
usually  propagated  by  division ;  but  it  is  much  better  to 
propagate  them  by  seeds,  which  should  be  sown  as  soon 
as  the  fruit  is  ripe. 

5th.  Raspberries. — The  usual  mode  of  propagating  the 
Raspberry  is  from  the  shoots,  or  canes,  called  "  suckers," 
which  are  produced  from  the  collar  and  spreading  roots 
of  the  plant.  A  crop  of  these  spring  up  every  year. 

Much  better  plants,  and  many  more  of  them,  may  be 
produced  by  taking  up  the  roots,  cutting  them  into  small 
pieces,  say  an  inch  long,  and  planting  them  in  beds  of 
good,  rich,  light  soil,  with  a  little  bottom  heat,  and  a 
glazed  sash  over  them,  until  they  have  made  a  good  start. 
They  may  then  be  transplanted  to  the  open  borders.  In 
this  way  fine  plants  are  made  in  one  season — much  better 
than  the  ordinary  suckers  from  old  plants. 

The  American  Black  Cap  family  of  raspberries  are 
propagated  from  the  tips  of  the  shoots,  which  are  fastened 
to  the  ground.  This  is  their  natural  method  of  multiply- 
ing themselves. 

The  seeds  are  washed  out  of  the  ripe  fruit  and  sowed 
at  once,  making  good  plants  the  next  season. 

6th.  Blackberries. — The  Blackberry  is  propagated  in  ex- 
actly the  same  way  as  the  raspberry,  but  the  cuttings  of 
roots  make  much  more  desirable  plants  than  the  suckers. 
Indeed,  the  latter  are  seldom  fit  to  be  planted  ;  being 
destitute  of  fibres,  they  mostly  fail. 

7th.  Mulberries. — The  principal  Mulberries  grown  for 
the  fruit  are  the  Black  Mulberry  (Morus  nigrd),  and  Down- 
ing's  Everbearing,  a  seedling  of  the  Morus  multicaulis, 
used  so  extensively  in  China  to  feed  the  silk-worm. 


BARBERRIES,    CHESTNUTS,    ETC.  167 

Both  can  be  propagated  from  cuttings  and  layers,  and 
by  grafting  and  inarching.  We  usually  graft  on  roots 
of  the  White  Mulberry  in  the  house,  as  we  do  grapes — 
put  them  in  pots  or  boxes,  and  keep  them  under  glass 
until  they  have  taken  well  and  made  a  few  inches  of 
growth,  when  they  are  planted  out  in  the  open  ground. 

8th.  Barberries. — These  are  propagated  from  seeds, 
suckers,  and  layers  in  the  simplest  manner.  It  usually 
takes  layers  two  years  to  root  sufficiently  to  be  separated 
from  the  parent  plant.  New  or  rare  sorts  can  be  grafted 
on  the  common  ones  quite  easily. 

9th.  Chestnuts  are  usually  grown  from  seed,  either  plant- 
ed in  the  fall,  as  we  always  do,  or  kept  in  sand  during 
winter,  and  planted  in  the  spring.  The  large  varieties 
of  the  Spanish  Chestnut,  or  Marron,  which  do  not  come 
true  from  seed,  can  be  grafted  on  the  others. 

10th.  Filberts  are  grown  from  seed,  but  the  finer  varie- 
ties are  propagated  by  suckers  or  layers,  or  by  grafting 
them  on  seedling  stocks.  Plants  grown  in  the  latter  way 
have  the  advantage  of  not  producing  suckers,  and  are, 
therefore,  more  desirable  for  the  garden.  Layering  is  the 
method  usually  employed  in  the  nurseries. 

llth.  Walnuts. — Our  native  Walnuts,  and  the  English 
Walnut,  or  Madeira  Nut,  are  usually  grown  from  seed ; 
but  there  is  a  Dwarf  prolific  variety  of  the  English,  called 
"Preparturiens"  which  must  be  increased  by  grafting  or 
budding  on  the  others,  and  this  is  rarely  performed  with 
any  considerable  degree  of  success  in  the  nurseries. 

12th.  Figs. — The  Fig  can  be  easily  propagated  from 
seeds,  layers,  cuttings  of  ripe  wood  or  green  wood,  and 
from  suckers.  As  the  more  esteemed  varieties  do  not  re- 
produce truly  from  seed,  this  method  is  seldom  employed, 
except  in  seeking  for  new  varieties.  Layering  is  a  very 
good  way.  Fruiting  branches  may  be  layered  in  pots  or 
boxes,  and  thus  fruiting  plants  be  obtained  at  once. 

Cuttings  of  ripe  wood,  taken  off  in  the  fall,  kept  in  the 


168  THE    NURSERY. 

cellar  in  sand  during  the  winter,  and  planted  out  in  the 
spring  in  a  warm,  dry  border,  will  grow  about  as  certain- 
ly as  grape  cuttings,  if  not  more  so. 

If  planted  in  pots,  and  set  in  a  hot-bed,  or  where  they 
will  get  a  slight  bottom  heat,  they  will  come  along  more 
surely  and  rapidly.  Cuttings  of  the  green  shoots,  taken 
off  when  two  or  three  inches  long,  and  placed  on  a  gentle 
bottom  heat,  root  quickly. 

SECTION  6. — LABELS  FOR  NURSERY  TREES. 

It  is  highly  important  that  a  correct  system  for  preserv- 
ing the  names  of  varieties  be  adopted.     Our  practice  is, 
to  make  labels  of  cedar,  eighteen  inches  long,  three  inches 
wide,  and  about  an  inch  thick.     These  are  pointed 
on  one  end,  to  be  sunk- in  the  ground  eight  or  ten 
inches,  and  the  face  is  painted  white.     When   a 
variety  is  to  be  budded  or  grafted,  the  name,  or 
a  number  referring  to  a  regular  record,  is  written 
on  it,   and  it  is  put  in  the  ground    in  front  of 
the  first  tree  of  the  variety.     Besides    this,  we 
invariably  record,  in  the  nursery  book,  each  row, 
with  the  kind  or  kinds  worked  on  it,  in   the  order 
they  stand  in  the  square.     In  case  of  the  acci- 
dental loss  of  the  labels,  the  record    preserves-  the 
names.     Figure  94  represents  this  kind  of  label, 
and   though    there    are  many  others  in  use,  we 
believe  this  to  be  one  of  the  simplest  and  best. 
At  the  time  of  budding  or    grafting,  we  usu- 
Fi   ^94  _  a^  write  tne  «ame  on  with  pencil,  and  after  the 
I.ABEL    square    has  been    all    worked,  the   numbers    are 
NUKSEKY  ma(^e  with  a  brush  and  black  paint  in  a  conspicu- 
ROWS.    ous  manner. 

SECTION  7. — TAKING  TIP  TREES  FROM  THE  NURSERY. 

This  is  an  operation  that  should  be  well  understood, 
and  performed  with  the  greatest  care.  The  importance 


TAKING  UP  TREES  PROM  THE  NURSERY.       169 

of  the  fibrous  roots  has  been  already  explained.  It  has 
been  shown  that  they  are  the  principal  absorbing  parts  of 
the  roots,  and  when  they  are  destroyed,  the  tree  receives  a 
great  shock,  from  which  it  requires  good  treatment  and  a 
long  time  to  recover.  There  is  a  great  difference  in  the 
character  of  roots,  some  penetrating  the  ground  to  a  great 
depth,  and  requiring  much  labor  in  the  removal,  others 
quite  fibrous  near  the  surface,  and  consequently  very 
easily  taken  up.  This  difference  is  not  owing  alone  to 
the  difference  in  the  species,  but  to  whether  the  subjects 
have  or  have  not  been  frequently  transplanted.  The  way 
to  take  up  a  tree  properly  is  to  dig  a  trench  011  each  side, 
at  the  extremities  of  the  lateral  or  spreading  roots,  taking 
care  that  the  edge,  and  not  the  face  of  the  spade,  be  kept 
next  the  tree,  so  that  the  roots  will  not  be  cut  off.  When 
this  trench  is  so  deep  as  to  be  below  all  the  lateral  roots, 
a  slight  pull,  and  a  pry  on  each  side  with  the  spade,  will 
generally  bring  out  the  tree.  If  there  be  strong  tap- 
roots, running  down  to  a  great  depth,  they  may  be  cut 
with  a  stroke  of  the  spade.  Laborers  who  have  not  been 
accustomed  to  the  work,  invariably  perform  it  badly ;  and 
it  is  difficult  to  get  it  properly  done,  even  \  >• 

by  experienced  hands.     It  is  a  work  requir-    X.          / 
ing  care   and  leisure,  though  it  is   usually  jp 

w 


95. — WIRED 


performed  slovenly,  and  in  great  haste. 

Labelling. — When  a  tree,  or  a  number  of 
trees,  of  any  variety  are  taken  up,  a  label, 
with  the  name  written  on  it,  should  at  once 
be  attached.  The  kind  of  label  used  in  the 
nurseries  here  is  a  piece  of  pine,  about  three 
and  a  half  inches  long,  three-fourths  of  an  "LABEL  FOR' 
inch  wide,  and  one-eighth  of  an  inch  thick. 
A  neck  is  made  on  one  end  by  cutting  into  each 
edge  about  an  eighth  of  an  inch  ;  a  piece  of  No.  26 
copper  wire,  about  seven  or  eight  inches  long,  is  then 
fastened  in  the  middle,  on  the  neck  of  the  label,  witlj 
8 


170  THE    NURSERY. 

two  or  three  twists.  The  two  ends  of  the  wire  are 
then  placed  around  the  stem,  or  a  branch  of  the  tree, 
and  are  fastened  with  a  twist  or  two.  This  kind  of 
wire  and  label  we  find,  by  experience,  to  be  not  only  safe, 
but  more  expeditiously  attached  than  any  other.  If  a 
little  paint  is  rubbed  on  just  before  being  used,  the  writ- 
ing will  be  more  legible  and  permanent,  but  it  should  be 
so  light  a.s  to  be  barely  perceptible,  else  it  will  clog  the 
pencil.  These  labels  are  now  manufactured  in  this  city 
by  machinery,  and  furnished  to  the  nurserymen,  without 
the  wire,  at  thirty  to  forty  cents  per  thousand.  The  wire 
costs  sixty  cents  per  pound,  and  is  cut  into  lengths  with  a 
pair  of  common  shears. 

Packing. — Persons  who  are  ignorant  of  the  structure 
of  trees  never  appreciate  the  importance  of  packing,  and 
that  is  the  reason  why  so  many  trees  are  every  year 
destroyed  by  exposure.  It  is  not  uncommon,  in  this  part 
of  the  country,  to  see  apple  trees  loaded  up  on  hay-racks, 
like  so  much  brush,  without  a  particle  of  covering  on  any 
part  of  them,  to  travel  a  journey  of  three  or  four  weeks 
in  this  condition.  Of  course  it  is  utterly  impossible  that 
such  trees  can  live  or  thrive ;  and  yet  the  persons  who 
thus  conduct  their  nursery  operations  are  doing  the  most 
profitable  business.  Such  practices  are  not  only  dishonest, 
But  highly  injurious  and  disreputable  to  the  trade  ;  and 
it  is  by  no  means  fair  to  class  such  people  amongst  re- 
spectable and  honorable  nurserymen. 

Purchasers  are  often  at  fault  in  this  matter.  Nursery- 
men have  to  buy  and  pay  for  the  material  used  in  pack- 
ing. Mats  cost  one  to  two  shillings  apiece;  straw,  four 
to  five  cents  per  small  bundle ;  yarn,  one  to  two  shillings 
per  pound ;  moss,  $15  to  $20  per  cord ;  and  besides,  the 
labor  of  packing,  when  well  done,  is  very  great.  It  is, 
therefore,  not  unreasonable  that  a  charge  be  made ;  but 
some  people,  rather  than  pay  fifty  cents  for  packing  fifty 
trees,  would  expose  themselves  to  the  risk  of  losing  all. 


TAKING    TIP    TREES    FROM    THE    NURSERY.  171 

Purchasers  should  invariably  charge  the  nurseryman,  to 
whom  they  send  their  orders,  to  pack  in  the  best  manner. 
Better  pay  one  or  even  two  cents  per  tree  for  packing 
than  lose  it,  or  injure  it  so  much  as  to  make  it  almost 
worthless. 

The  mode  of  packing  pursued  here  is  this :  Where  the 
trees  are  packed  in  bundles,  a  number  of  ties  are  first  laid 
down,  then  a  layer  of  long  rye  straw,  three  or  four  inches 
deep ;  the  trees  are  then  laid  compactly  together,  straw 
being  placed  among  the  tops,  to  prevent  their  being  chafed 
when  drawn  together,  and  damp  moss  from  the  swamp  is 
shaken  among  the  roots.  When  the  bundle  is  built,  long 
straw  is  placed  on  the  top  as  below,  and  it  is  then  bound 
up  as  tightly  as  it  can  be  drawn.  Straw  is  then  placed 
around  the  roots  sufficiently  thick  to  exclude  the  air,  and 
then  a  bass  mat  is  sewed  on  over  the  straw.  If  the  bun- 
dle is  only  to  go  a  short  distance,  the  straw  can  be  so  se- 
cured around  the  roots  that  the  mats  may  be  dispensed 
with ;  but  if  it  has  a  long  journey  to  perform,  it  should 
be  matted  from  bottom  to  top,  and  sewed  with  strong, 
tarred,  spun  yarn,  about  as  thick  as  a  goose-quill  Hoxes 
are  more  secure  for  very  long  journeys ;  they  are  generally 
made  of  6|8-inch  white  pine  timber.  Boxes  are  now  em- 
ployed almost  exclusively,  as  they  are  found  to  be  cheaper 
and  safer,  and  railroads  charge  one-half  more  freight  on 
strawed  or  matted  bundles.  If  the  trees  are  composed 
of  several  varieties,  they  should  be  tied  in  small  parcels 
of  four  to  six  each,  according  to  the  size.  The  sides  and 
ends  of  the  box  should  be  well  lined  with  straw,  and  the 
roots  bedded  in  moss  and  the  tops  in  straw,  to  prevent 
chafing. 

If  the  box  be  large,  two  rows  of  cleats  are  necessary — 
one  in  the  middle,  and  one  in  the  top,  to  hold  the  trees  in 
their  place,  and  to  keep  the  box  from  spreading.  When 
the  box  is  nailed  up,  it  should  be  banded  both  at  the  ends 
and  middle  with  iron  hoops,  fastened  with  wrought  nails. 


172  THE    NtTKSERY. 

Hickory  hoops  are  sometimes  employed,  and  answer  very 
well.  Packed  in  this  way,  trees  may  go  any  distance 
with  safety.  The  season  of  the  year  modifies  the  mode 
of  packing.  The  roots  should  always,  for  a  long  journey, 
be  immersed  in  a  thin  mud  before  being  packed,  as  this 
excludes  the  air ;  but  in  the  fall,  this  mud  should  be  dry 
before  the  package  is  made  up,  and  the  moss  should  con- 
tain very  little  moisture.  In  a  frosty  time,  the  less  moist- 
ure there  is  about  the  roots  the  better ;  but  an  abundance 
of  straw  should  be  used  to  exclude  the  air  and  frost. 

Heeling-in. — When  trees  are  taken  up,  and  can  neither 
be  packed  nor  planted  at  once,  they  are  laid  in  by  the 
roots  in  trenches ;  the  longer  they  have  to  remain  in  this 
situation  the  better  it  should  be  performed.  Trees  are 
often  wintered  in  this  way,  and,  if  the  trenches  are  dug 
deep,  and  the  roots  well  spread  out,  and  deeply  covered, 
they  are  perfectly  safe.  It  should  be  done,  in  such  cases, 
with  almost  as  much  care  as  the  final  planting  of  a  tree. 
When  great  bundles  of  the  roots  are  huddled  in  together, 
and  only  three  or  four  inches  of  earth  thrown  over  them, 
both  air  and  frost  act  upon  them,  and  they  sustain  serious 
injury.  Tender  trees,  likely  to  suffer  from  the  freezing  of 
the  shoots,  should  be  laid  in  an  inclined,  almost  horizon- 
tal, position,  and  be  covered  with  brush,  evergreen  boughs, 
or  something  that  will  break  the  violence  of  the  wind 
and  frost.  Straw  should  not  be  used,  as  it  attracts  vermin. 
Some  rough  litter  or  manure  should  also  be  thrown  around 
the  roots,  and  in  this  way  the  most  tender  of  all  our  fruit 
trees  may  be  wintered  with  safety. 


PA.RT    III. 


THE    LAYING   OUT,   ARRANGEMENT,   AND    GENERAL 
MANAGEMENT  OP  DIFFERENT  KINDS  OF  PER- 
MANENT  PLANTATIONS   OF   FRUIT-TREES, 
SELECTION  OF  TREES  AND  VARIETIES, 
AND    PRUNING    AND    CONDUCTING 
TREES  UNDER  VARIOUS  FORMS. 


173 


CHAPTER    I. 

PERMANENT    PLANTATIONS    OF    FRUIT-TREES. 
SECTION   1. — THE    DIFFERENT    KINDS  OF    PLANTATIONS. 

The  different  kinds  of  plantations  may  be  classed  as 
follows  :  1st.  The  Family  Orchard,  which  is  a  portion  of 
the  farm  set  apart  for  the  production  of  the  more  hardy 
and  common  fruit,  principally  apples,  for  the  use  of  the 
farm  stock  and  the  family.  2d.  The  Market,  or  Commer- 
cial Orchard,  a  large  plantation  of  the  various  species 
of  fruit-trees,  for  the  production  of  fruit  as  an  article  of 
commerce.  3d.  The  Fruit  Garden,  which,  with  the  far- 
mer, is  a  plot  of  ground  near  the  dwelling,  in  which  the 
finer  fruits,  as  pears,  peaches,  plums,  cherries,  apricots, 
etc.,  and  all  the  small  fruits,  are  cultivated.  In  many 
cases,  and  even  in  most  cases,  it  is  a  portion  of  the  kitchen 
garden,  where  the  table  or  culinary  vegetables  are 
grown.  With  the  professional  man,  the  merchant,  the 
mechanic,  and  others  who  reside  in  cities,  villages,  and 
their  suburbs,  possessing  but  small  tracts  of  land,  at  most 
but  a  few  acres,  the  fruit  garden  is  the  only  source  for 
the  supply  of  fruits  for  their  families,  and  is  usually 
planted  with  the  most  rare,  perishable,  and  valuable  sorts, 
that  cannot  so  easily  be  procured  in  market. 

The  pleasure  and  profit  derived  from  fruit  plantations, 
under  any  or  all  of  these  circumstances,  depend  upon 
the  judicious  selection  of  soil,  situation,  trees,  and  varie- 
ties, and  their  proper  arrangement  and  management. 
These  are  the  essential  points,  and  every  man  who  con- 
templates planting  to  a  greater  or  less  extent,  should 
avail  himself  of  all  the  light  which  experience  has  shed 

175 


176  PERMANENT   PLANTATIONS. 

upon  these  various  branches  of  the  subject,  before  mak- 
ing the  first  movement  towards  the  execution  of  his 
project. 

SECTION  2. — THE  ORCHARD. 

The  orchard  is  distinguished  from  the  fruit  garden  in 
this,  that  the  trees  planted  in  it  are  generally  of  the  larg- 
est size  to  which  the  species  attain ;  they  are  grown  in 
the  natural,  or,  as  it  is  called,  standard  form,  without  any 
particular  training,  and  the  varieties  are  generally  the 
most  hardy  and  productive  of  the  species. 

1st.  The  situation  of  an  orchard,  with  regard  to  expos- 
ure or  aspect,  requires  very  little  consideration  in  some 
parts  of  the  country.  Where,  as  in  Western  New  York, 
for  instance,  the  winters  are  uniform,  or  comparatively  so, 
in  temperature,  and  late  spring  frosts  do  not  prevail,  the 
main  difficulties  to  guard  against  are  the  prevailing  high 
winds  from  the  west  and  north  that  injure  the  blossoms, 
and  blow  off  the  fruit  before  it  is  mature.  If  possible,  a 
situation  should  be  chosen  where  some  natural  obstacle, 
as  a  hill,  or  a  belt  of  woods,  would  break  the  force  and 
influence  of  these  destructive  winds.  Where  no  such 
obstacle  naturally  exists,  a  belt  or  border  of  rapidly-grow- 
ing trees,  such  as  Soft  Maple,  White  Pine,  Norway 
Spruce,  Scotch  Pine,  European  Larch,  etc.,  should  be 
planted  simultaneously  with  the  planting  of  the  orchard, 
that  they  may  grow  up  and  form  a  protection  by  the  time 
the  trees  have  come  into  bearing.  Instances  occur  every 
year  in  our  own  section  where  sheltered  orchards  bear 
full  crops,  whilst  those  fully  exposed  to  the  winds  fail 
entirely. 

In  other  sections,  as  in  some  of  the  central  and  south- 
ern counties  of  New  York,  and  in  some  parts  of  Ohio, 
Illinois,  Wisconsin,  and  others  of  the  Western  as  well  as 
in  the  Southern  States,  where  late  and  fatal  spring  frosts 
prevail,  the  selection  of  a  situation  is  a  most  important 


THE    ORCHARD.  177 

point.  In  such  localities,  an  eastern  and  southern  expos- 
ure, and  low  grounds,  are  to  be  avoided. 

John  J.  Thomas,  in  his  Fruit  Culturist,  states  that,  "In 
the  valley  of  the  Coshocton,  which  is  flanked  by  hills  five 
hundred  feet  high,  peach-trees  have  been  completely  killed 
to  the  ground,  but  on  one  of  the  neighboring  hills,  five 
hundred  feet  above,  and  probably  twelve  hundred  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  sea,  an  orchard,  planted  in  good  soil, 
yields  regular  crops.  In  the  town  of  Spencer,  Tioga 
County,  near  the  head  of  Cayuga  Inlet,  peaches  have  with- 
stood the  climate  and  done  well  at  an  elevation  of  seven 
hundred  feet  above  Cayuga  Lake."  Lawrence  Young,  Esq. , 
Chairman  of  the  Kentucky  Fruit  Committee,  reported  to 
the  Pomological  Convention  at  Cincinnati,  in  1850,  the 
case  of  an  orchard  in  that  State,  lying  within  the  peach 
district,  occupying  the  slopes  of  hills  of  no  great  hight, 
inclining  gently  toward  a  river,  distant  only  a  few  hundred 
yards.  Its  success  was  that  common  to  a  fickle,  western 
climate — a  fruit  year  and  a  failure,  or  perhaps  two  years 
of  productiveness  and  three  of  disappointment  in  every 
five. 

Within  five  miles  of  this  orchard,  however,  is  located 
a  hill  six  hundred  feet  high,  upon  which  the  peach  crop 
has  not  failed  since  he  first  knew  it.  Numerous  other  in- 
stances are  quoted  and  the  particulars  given  with  great 
accuracy,  showing  the  effects  of  even  very  slight  eleva- 
tions. 

Among  others,  is  an  instance  of  the  Heath  Peach  bear- 
ing a  full  crop  in  one  part  of  an  orchard,  whilst  in  another 
part,  thirty  feet  lower,  the  same  variety  bore  not  a  single 
fruit.  Multitudes  of  such  cases  might  be  collected  in  all 
parts  of  the  country  where  the  climate  is  variable,  because 
in  such  situations  vegetation  is  earlier  excited  than  in  those 
more  elevated  and  colder,  and  frosts  always  fall  more 
heavily  on  low  than  on  high  grounds.  Every  one  who 
has  paid  the  slightest  attention  to  the  action  of  frost  on 
8* 


178  PERMANENT    PLANTATIONS. 

vegetation  is  aware,  that  even  an  elevation  of  two  or  three 
feet  of  one  portion  of  the  same  field  or  garden  above  the 
other  frequently  proves  a  protection  from  an  untimely  frost. 
In  a  dry  and  firm  soil,  vegetation  is  more  exempt  from 
injuries  by  frost  than  in  a  damp,  soft,  and  spongy  soil  on 
the  same  level,  not  only  because  trees  on  such  soils  are 
more  mature  and  hardier  in  these  parts,  but  because  the 
soil  and  the  atmosphere  above  it  are  less  charged  with 
watery  particles  that  form  the  deposition  of  frost.  Bodies 
of  water  that  do  not  freeze  in  winter,  such  as  some  of  our 
inland  lakes,  exert  a  favorable  influence  for  a  considerable 
distance  from  their  margins  in  protecting  vegetation  from 
late  spring  and  early  autumn  frosts.  This  is  well  illus- 
trated in  Western  New  York,  along  the  south  shore  of 
Lake  Ontario.  Here,  in  the  counties  of  Wayne,  Monroe, 
Orleans,  and  Niagara,  for  a  distance  varying  from  five  to 
seven  miles  from  the  lake,  the  peach  crop  rarely  fails ; 
while  farther  inland,  as  the  lake  influence  diminishes,  the 
peach  crop,  for  the  last  ten  years,  has  been,  with  occasional 
exceptions,  a  failure. 

In  some  parts  of  the  West,  as  in  Wisconsin  and  Illinois, 
the  winters  are  so  variable — during  the  day  as  mild  as 
spring,  and  in  the  night  the  mercury  falling  many  degrees 
below  zero — that  even  the  apple  and  pear  trees  in  soft, 
damp,  and  rich  soils  are  frequently  killed  to  the  ground. 

In  such  localities,  experience  has  taught  cultivators 
that  elevated,  dry,  firm,  and  moderately  rich  soil,  that  will 
produce  a  firm,  well-matured  growth,  is  the  only  safe- 
guard against  the  destruction  of  plantations  in  the  winter. 

In  all  localities  where  fruit  culture  has  made  any  consid- 
erable progress,  there  is  generally  experience  enough  to  be 
found,  if  carefully  sought  for  and  collected,  to  guide  begin- 
ners in  fixing  upon  sites  for  orchards ;  and  no  man  should  ven- 
ture to  plant  without  giving  due  attention  to  the  subject, 
and  availing  himself  of  all  the  experience  of  his  neighbors ; 
for  experience,  after  all,  is  the  only  truly  reliable  guide. 


THE    ORCHARD.  179 

2d.  The  Soil. — Having  treated  already  of  the  different 
characters  and  modes  of  amelioration  of  soils,  it  is  only 
necessary  here  to  point  out  what  particular  qualities  or 
kinds  are  best  adapted  to  the  different  classes  of  fruit- 
trees,  as  far  as  experience  will  warrant  in  so  doing.  There 
are  soils  of  a  certain  texture  and  quality,  in  which,  by 
proper  management,  all  our  hardy  fruits  may  be  grown 
to  perfection;  for  instance,  the  soil  of  our  specimen 
orchard,  which  is  that  usually  termed  a  sandy  loam,  with 
a  sandy ,  clay  subsoil,  so  dry  that  it  can  be  worked  imme- 
diately after  a  rain  of  twenty-four  hours.  On  this  we 
have  apples,  pears,  plums,  cherries,  peaches,  apricots,  and, 
indeed,  all  the  fruits  planted  promiscuously,  side  by  side, 
not  of  choice,  but  necessity,  and  all  these  yield  bountiful 
crops  of  the  finest  fruit.  Our  country  abounds  in  such 
soils,  and  others  somewhat  different  in  character,  but 
equally  eligible  for  all  fruit-trees  when  well  managed. 
On  the  other  hand,  there  are  soils  wholly  unfit  for  fruit- 
trees  of  any  kind — such  are  peaty  or  mucky,  and  damp, 
cold,  and  spongy  soils.  For  an  orchard  of  apples  or 
pears,  a  dry,  deep,  substantial  soil,  between  sandy  and  a 
clayey  loam,  and  possessing  among  its  inorganic  parts  a 
considerable  portion  of  lime,  is,  according  to  all  experi- 
ence, the  best.  On  such  soils  we  find  the  greatest  and 
most  enduring  vigor  and  fertility,  the  healthiest  and 
hardiest  trees,  and  the  fairest  and  best-flavored  fruits. 
Trees,  both  of  apples  and  pears,  planted  on  such  soils  in 
Western  New  York,  upwards  of  fifty  years  ago,  are,  at 
this  day,  in  the  very  hight  of  their  vigor  and  productive- 
ness, without  having  received  more  than  the  most  ordi- 
nary culture.  It  has  been  observed  that  apples,  grown 
on  clayey  soils,  keep  better  than  those  grown  on  light 
soils. 

The  plum  succeeds  best,  as  a  general  thing,  on  a  clayey 
loam,  rather  stiff.  The  Canada  or  native  plum,  and  Mira- 
belle,  however,  succeed  well  on  very  light  soils.  The 


180  PERMANENT   PLANTATIONS. 

cherry,  the  peach,  apricot,  nectarine,  and  almond,  require 
a  light,  dry,  and  warm  soil.  The  best  an<l  most  enduring 
peach  orchards  are  on  dry,  sandy  loams ;  but  good 
orchards  are  raised,  with  proper  management,  on  loose, 
light  sands,  though  on  such  the  trees  are  shorter  lived, 
and  require  constant  care  in  the  way  of  dressings  of 
manure  and  compost.  There  are  two  points  to  be  ob- 
served under  all  circumstances  in  regard  to  soils.  They 
must  possess  the  inorganic  substances,  such  as  lime,  pot- 
ash, etc.,  that  constitute  a  large  portion  of  the  ashes  of 
the  wood  and  bark  of  fruit-trees,  when  burned,  and  a  suf- 
ficient amount  of  organic  matter — vegetable  mould,  which 
dissolves,  and  furnishes  material  for  the  formation  and 
growth  of  new  parts.  People  who  have  been  long  en- 
gaged in  the  culture  of  the  soil  can  judge  pretty  cor- 
rectly of  its  quality  by  its  appearance,  texture,  subsoil, 
and  the  character  of  the  rocks  and  stones  that  underlie 
and  prevail  in  it. 

3d.  Preparation  of  Soil  for  an  Orchard. — The  season 
before  planting,  the  soil  should  be  at  least  twice  ploiced 
with  a  common  and  subsoil  plow,  enriched  with  suitable 
composts,  and  drained,  if  necessary. 

4th.  Inclosures. — Before  a  tree  is  planted,  it  is  neces- 
sary that  the  ground  be  inclosed  with  a  fence,  sufficient 
to  protect  it  against  the  invasion  of  animals.  It  is  no 
uncommon  thing  to  hear  people  regret  that  the  cattle 
broke  into  the  orchard  and  destroyed  many  trees.  Indeed, 
it  frequently  happens  that  more  damage  is  done  in  this 
way  than,  if  duly  estimated,  would  have  fenced  the  whole 
orchard.  There  is  much  inquiry  nowadays  on  the  sub- 
ject of  fences,  and  various  plans  and  materials  are  sug- 
gested and  tried.  Live  hedges  are  unquestionably  the 
most  ornamental  and  appropriate  inclosures  for  extensive 
plantations  of  fruit-trees,  and  in  time  will,  no  doubt,  be 
trene rally  adopted.  Hitherto  the  failure  of  many  plants 
tried,  and  the  cost  and  difficulty  of  obtaining  others,  have 


THE    ORCHARD.  181 

retarded  their  introduction.  Experience,  however,  has  at 
length  pretty  fairly  decided  that  the  Osage  Orange  is  the 
best  for  the  West  and  South-west,  and  the  Buckthorn  for 
the  North  and  East.  The  seeds  of  both  these  plants  are 
now  easily  procured,  and  plants  of  them  may  be  obtained 
in  nurseries  from  $3  to  $5  per  1,000 ;  and  about  2,000  will 
fence  an  acre  of  ground,  setting  the  plants  twelve  inches 
apart,  in  two  rows,  six  inches  apart,  which  is  the  strong- 
est way.  A  single  row,  with  the  plants  at  six  inches 
apart,  will  make  a  good  fence,  with  proper  shearing  to 
thicken  them  at  the  bottom  ;  either  way  they  will  make 
a  beautiful  and  efficient  hedge  in  five  or  six  years.  The 
Honey-Locust  is  also  a  strong,  hardy,  rapid-growing  plant, 
and  makes  a  very  beautiful  and  efficient  hedge,  which,  in 
six  or  seven  years  from  the  planting,  will  turn  any  ani- 
mals. We  are  using  this  on  our  own  grounds  in  prefer- 
ence to  all  others. 

For  an  ornamental  hedge,  and  screen  or  shelter,  there 
is  nothing  equal  at  the  North  to  the  Norway  Spruce  and 
Arbor  Vitce.  It  is  sometimes  objected  to  hedges  that 
they  harbor  birds ;  but  it  is  to  be  remembered  that  birds 
are  the  natural  foes  of  insects,  and  never  fail  to  accom- 
plish a  vast  amount  of  labor  for  the  good  of  the  fruit 
grower,  for  which  they  ought  to  be  fully  entitled  to  a 
participation  in  his  enjoyments.  As  the  feathered  race 
are  persecuted  and  driven  away  from  our  gardens,  insects 
become  more  numerous  and  destructive ;  at  least  this  is 
the  experience  of  most  people,  and  should  lessen,  if  not 
entirely  prevent,  the  cruel  hostility  that  is  continually 
waged  against  them.  It  must,  however,  be  admitted  that 
occasionally  certain  species  will  attack  our  fruits  in  such 
force  that  their  destruction  becomes  not  only  justifiable, 
but  necessary.  Even  the  Robin  becomes  troublesome  at 
times. 

5th.  Selection  of  Varieties  of  Fruits  for  an  Orchard. — 
This  is  a  most  important  point.  The  selection  of  varie- 


182  PERMANENT   PLANTATIONS. 

ties  must,  in  all  cases,  be  made  with  reference  to  the  spe- 
cial purposes  for  which  they  are  intended.  The  family 
orchard  of  the  farmer  we  will  suppose  to  contain  apple- 
trees  alone,  as  all  the  other  fruits  are,  or  ought  to  be, 
grown  in  the  fruit  garden.  His  selection  of  varieties 
must  be  adapted  to  his  wants  and  circumstances.  In  the 
first  place,  the  number  of  his  family  must  regulate  the 
proportion  of  kitchen  and  table  varieties.  In  the  second 
place,  he  must  consider  how  many  he  will  want  for  sauce, 
how  many  for  baking  and  drying,  how  many  for  cider, 
and  how  many  for  the  dessert,  and  what  proportion  of 
sweet  and  of  acid.  These  are  all  considerations  that  de- 
pend upon  the  habits,  taste,  and  mode  of  living  of  fami- 
lies, and  for  which  no  man  can  provide  or  suggest  but 
the  planter  himself.  Then,  again,  he  must  consider  to 
what  extent  it  may  be  advantageous  to  feed  apples  to  his 
stock,  nnd  provide  for  it  accordingly. 

Without  considering  well  all  these  points,  a  man  may 
sit  down  and  select  what  are  called  "  the  best  varieties," 
and  yet  find  himself  badly  suited  when  they  come  to 
bear ;  for  so  it  happens  that  a  variety  that  may  be  best 
for  the  dessert,  will  be  exceedingly  unprofitable  for  other 
purposes.  A  hardy,  vigorous,  and  productive  variety,  of 
medium  quality,  quite  unfit  for  the  table,  may  be  infinitely 
more  advantageous  for  feeding  stock  than  a  feeble-grow- 
ing, shy-bearing  variety,  quite  indispensable  for  the  des- 
sert ;  and  an  apple  may  be  excellent  for  sauce,  for  baking, 
or  drying,  and  unfit  for  the  dessert.  These  points  should 
all  be  duly  considered. 

The  Market  or  Commercial  Orchardist  must  exercise 
the  same  discrimination  in  the  selection  of  his  varieties, 
adapting  them  to  the  mode  of  culture  he  intends  to  pur- 
sue and  the  market  he  intends  to  supply.  In  the  imme- 
diate vicinity  of  large  cities  and  towns,  where  the 
orchardist  may  carry  his  fruit  to  market  in  a  few  hours, 
the  most  profitable  culture  will,  generally  speaking,  be 


THE    ORCHARD.  183 

summer  and  early  autumn  fruits,  or  such  as  require  to  be 
consumed  immediately  after  maturity,  and  are  unfit  for 
distant  transportation.  Early  apples  and  pears  only  will 
be  profitable  for  him,  because  the  autumn  and  winter  va- 
rieties can  be  sent  so  easily  from  the  most  distant  portions 
of  the  interior,  with  such  facilities  as  our  present  system 
of  railroads,  plank-roads,  canals,  and  steamboats  afford. 
In  addition  to  early  apples  and  pears,  his  position  gives 
him  great  advantages  for  the  profitable  culture  of  all  the 
stone  fruits,  gooseberries,  currants,  raspberries,  grapes, 
and  such  soft  fruits,  when  intended  to  be  disposed  of  in  a 
raw  state. 

The  market  grower  of  the  interior  will  find  his  most 
profitable  culture  to  be  principally  autumn  and  winter 
apples  and  pears,  to  which  he  may  add  quinces,  and,  if  the 
climate  and  soil  be  favorable,  the  grape,  because  all  these 
can  be  packed  and  transported  to  a  great  distance  with 
safety ;  and  the  comparative  cheapness  of  his  lands  enables 
him  to  compete  advantageously  with  those  more  favora- 
bly situated  in  regard  to  market.  He  can  only  cultivate 
the  summer  fruits  with  a  view  to  drying  or  preserving,  or 
for  the  supply  of  a  local  demand.  All  orchard  fruits,  in- 
tended for  profitable  orchard  culture,  should  be,  first,  in 
regard  to  the  trees,  hardy,  vigorous,  and  productive.  The 
fruits  should  be  of  good  size,  fair  appearance,  good  keep- 
ers, and  of  good  quality.  It  should  be  borne  in  mind 
that  many  of  the  best  fruits  are  very  unprofitable  for 
general  market  culture.  Under  certain  circumstances 
this  may  not  be  the  case,  as,  for  example,  in  the  neigh- 
borhood of  such  a  city  as  London,  or  Paris,  or  even  New 
York,  or  Boston.  A  class  of  people  is  to  be  found  in 
such  places  who  will  pay  almost  any  price  for  extra  fine 
fruits.  Where  apples  can  be  sold  for  $2  per  bushel,  pears 
at  $1  per  dozen,  grapes  at  $1  per  pound,  and  other  fine 
fruits  in  proportion,  growers  are  warranted  in  cultivating 
very  choice  sorts,  even  if  they  be  difficult  to  manage  and 


184  PERMANENT   PLANTATIONS. 

comparatively  unproductive.  As  a  general  thing,  how- 
ever, taking  the  markets  as  they  are,  the  great  bulk  of 
consumers  preferring  fruit  of  tolerable  good  quality  and 
moderate  prices  to  the  very  best  at  twice  or  three  times 
the  ordinary  price,  the  most  profitable  varieties  will  be 
those  that  can  be  produced  at  the  least  expense,  provided, 
always,  that  they  be  good  ;  for  fruits  of  a  decidedly  in- 
ferior quality,  whatever  may  be  their  other  merits,  are 
wholly  unworthy  of  cultivation  for  the  market.  Another 
thing  is  the  selection  of  varieties  that  succeed  best  in  the 
locality  where  they  are  to  be  cultivated.  A  variety  that 
succeeds  remarkably  well  in  any  particular  locality  should, 
other  things  being  nearly  equal,  be  cultivated  largely. 
The  Newtown  Pippin  apple,  for  instance,  is  a  profitable 
orchard  fruit  on  Long  Island  and  on  the  Hudson ;  but  in 
Western  New  York  no  system  of  management  would 
make  it  yield  one-fourth  as  much  net  profit  as  the  Baldwin, 
Northern  Spy,  Rhode  Island  Greening,  or  Roxbury 
Russet.  Large  plantations,  for  profit,  should  always  be 
made  up  of  well-proved  varieties,  that  have  been  tested 
in  the  locality,  or  one  similar,  in  regard  to  soil  and  situa- 
tion. A  list  of  select  varieties  will  be  given  in  a  succeed- 
ing and  separate  part  of  the  work. 

6th.  Selection  of  Trees. — For  the  farmer's  orchard, 
where  the  ground  among  the  trees  is  to  be  cultivated 
mainly  with  the  plow,  and  occasionally  cropped,  stand- 
ard trees,  with  stems  four  or  five  feet  in  hight,  will  be 
the  most  eligible,  and  ought  to  be,  at  the  time  of  planting, 
three  or  four  years  old  from  the  bud  or  graft,  well  grown, 
with  stout,  straight,  well-proportioned  trunks.  Low, 
stout  trees  are  always  preferable  to  tall,  slender  ones.  In- 
experienced planters  are  generally  more  particular  about 
the  hight  than  the  diameter  of  the  trunk,  but  it  should 
be  just  the  reverse.  If  trees  are  stout,  and  have  good 
roots,  a  foot  in  hight  is  comparatively  unimportant,  un- 
less to  one  who  wishes  to  turn  cattle  into  his  orchard,  and 


THE    ORCHARD.  185 

have  the  heads  of  his  trees  at  once  out  of  their  way.  Few 
people,  however,  follow  such  a  practice.  In  very  elevated 
and  exposed  situations,  low  trees  are  to  be  preferred,  as 
the  wind  does  not  strike  them  with  such  force  as  it  does 
the  tall  ones. 

7th.  Arrangement  of  the  Trees. — The  distance  between 
the  trees  in  an  apple  orchard  should  be  thirty  feet  from 
tree  to  tree,  in  all  directions.  In  a  very  strong  and  deep 
soil,  where  the  trees  attain  the  largest  size,/brfc/  feet  is 
not  too  much,  especially  after  the  first  fifteen  or  twenty 
years.  There  is  a  great  difference  between  the  sizes  that 
different  varieties  attain,  and  also  in  their  habits  of 
growth.  One  will  attain  nearly  double  the  size  of  another 
within  ten  years.  Some  are  erect  in  their  habits  (as  fig. 
3),  others  spreading  (as  fig.  5) ;  and  it  will  add  greatly  to 
the  symmetry  of  the  plantation  if  the  trees  of  the  same 
size  and  habit  of  growth  be  planted  together.  Varieties 
that  ripen  about  the  same  time  should  also  be  planted 
together,  as  the  maturity  can  be  more  easily  watched, 
and  the  fruit  gathered  with  much  less  inconvenience. 
The  largest  fruits,  being  most  liable  to  be  blown  off, 
should  be  placed  in  the  least  exposed  quarter. 

The  ordinary  arrangement  of  orchard  trees  is  the 
square  or  regular  form,  in  rows,  the  same  distance  apart, 
and  an  equal  distance  between  each  tree.  Thus,  in  plant- 
ing a  square  of  one  hundred  feet,  for  example,  the  trees 
to  be  twenty-five  feet  apart,  we  commence  on  one  side, 
laying  a  line  the  whole  length.  On  this  line  we  measure 
off  the  distances  for  the  trees,  and  place  a  stake,  indica- 
ting the  point  for  the  tree.  Thus,  in  fig.  96,  we  have  five 
rows  of  five  trees  each,  making  twenty-five  in  all,  and  all 
twenty-five  feet  apart.  This  is  the  simplest,  and  probably 
the  best  for  very  small  orchards.  The  better  plan  for 
large  orchards  is  what  is  called  quincunx  (fig.  97),  in 
which  the  trees  of  one  row  are  opposite  the  spaces  in  the 
next.  In  this  way,  although  the  trees  are  at  equal  dis- 


186 


PERMANENT    PLANTATIONS. 


tances,  there  is  a  larger  clear  area  around  each  tree.  In 
fig.  96,  the  square  form,  every  tree  stands  in  the  corner 
of  a  square,  in  the  centre  of,  and  equally  distant  from, 
four  others.  In  the  quincunx,  every  tree  stands  in  the 
angle  of  a  triangle  of  equal  sides,  and  in  the  centre  of, 
and  equally  distant  from,  six  others.  Thus,  in  the  latter, 


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L  < 

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/     10    20    30    4-0    50 


loo  rr. 


Fig.    96. — SQUARE   PLANTING.  Fig.  '97. — QUINCUNX  PLANTING. 

there  is  a  greater  space  left  for  the  admission  of  light  and 
air,  and  trees  so  planted  may  be  at  less  distance  than  in 
the  other.  The  operation  of  planting  is  more  compli- 
cated than  that  of  the  square,  the  ro\vs  not  being  the 
same  distance  apart  as  the  trees  are  in  the  row.  The 
first  thing  to  be  done  is  to  find  the  two  measures.  Sup- 
pose, for  instance,  we  propose  to  plant  a  plot  of  ground 
one  hundred  feet  square,  and  to  have  the  trees  twenty- 
five  feet  apart  every  way,  we  make  a  triangle  of  wood, 
Ay  jB,  D  (fig.  97),  each  side  of  which  is  twenty-five  feet ; 
we  then  measure  the  distance  from  the  angle,  B,  to  the 
center  of  the  opposite  side,  at  C,  and  this  gives  us  the 
distance  between  the  rows,  which  will  be  about  twenty- 
one  feet.  This  will  be  called  the  small  measure ;  and 


THE    ORCHARD.  187 

with  this  we  measure  off  on  two  sides  the  distances  for 
the  rows,  and  put  down  a  stake  at  each.  We  then  com- 
mence on  the  first  row,  and  with  the  long  (twenty-five 
feet)  measure  mark  off  the  places  for  the  trees,  and  put 
down  a  stake  to  each.  The  measurements  must  be  made 
with  exactness,  in  order  to  have  the  plantation  present  a 
regular  appearance,  as  in  fig.  97. 

8th.  Selection  of  Trees  for  the  Market  or  Commercial 
Orchard. — The  remarks  made  in  reference  to  the  selec- 
tion of  standard  trees  for  the  family  orchard  may  be 
applied  with  equal  propriety  to  these ;  but  the  orchardist 
must  be  supposed  to  have  invested  a  considerable  amount 
of  capital,  and  probably  devotes  his  entire  attention  to 
his  trees,  and  depends  upon  them  for  his  support.  It  is, 
therefore,  a  great  object  with  him  to  have  early  returns 
in  the  form  of  products.  An  orchard  of  standard  apples 
will  not  procfuce  any  considerable  quantity  of  fruit  before 
the  eighth  or  tenth  year,  nor  pears  before  the  twelfth  or 
fifteenth  year.  In  the  mean  time  it  is  highly  desirable 
to  occupy  the  ground  amongst  the  trees  in  some  way  that 
will  at  least  bear  the  expenses  of  cultivation.  If  this 
can  be  done,  it  is  as  much  as  can  be  expected  in  the 
usual  practice  of  cultivating  root  crops.  The  most  pro- 
fitable manner  of  turning  to  account  the  spaces  between 
the  standard  trees  for  the  first  ten  or  twelve  years  at 
least,  is  to  plant  them  with  dwarf  and  pyramidal  trees,  or 
dwarf  standards,  that  will  commence  bearing  the  third  or 
fourth  year  after  planting.  This  is  the  course  pursued  by 
the  orchardists  of  France  and  Belgium,  where  land  is 
valuable,  and  the  cultivators  are  compelled  to  turn  every 
inch  of  it  to  the  best  account.  Attention  has  been 
slightly  called  to  this  mode  of  management  in  this 
country,  and  a  few  persons  have  already  carried  it  into 
practice.  As  soon  as  it  comes  to  be  considered,  it  cannot 
fail  to  recommend  itself  to  those  who  are  embarking 
extensively  in  the  orchard  culture  of  fruits  for  the  market, 


188 


PERMANENT    PLANTATIONS. 


on  high-priced  lands.  It  is  only  surprising  that  it  should 
have  been  so  long  overlooked  by  shrewd  and  enterprising 
orchardists.  An  acre  of  land,  for  example,  planted  with 
standard  apple-trees,  at  thirty  feet  apart,  contains  forty- 
five  to  fifty ;  and  if  we  fill  up  the  spaces  with  dwarfs 
on  Paradise,  at  six  feet  apart,  leaving  ten  feet  clear  around 
each  standard,  we  get  in  about  five  hundred  dwarf  trees. 
These  will  bear  the  third  year,  and  during  the  next  five 
years  the  average  value  of  their  products  will  be  at 
least  twenty  to  fifty  cents  each.  We  would  plant  them 
in  such  a  way  that  the  plow  and  cultivator  could  be 


Fig.  98.  Fig.  99. 

Fig.  98,  orchard  of  standard  and  dwarf  apple  trees.    Fig.  99,  orchard  of  standard 
and  dwarf  or  pyramidal  pears. 

used  among  them,  two  dwarfs  between  each  standard,  and 
two  full  rows  between  each  row  of  standards,  as  in  fig.  98. 

In  ten  or  twelve  years  the  dwarfs  might  be  taken  out, 
and  the  entire  ground  given  to  the  standards. 

Orchards  of  standard  pears  may,  in  the  same  manner, 
be  filled  up  with  dwarf  and  pyramidal  trees  on  the  quince. 


THE    OKCHARD.  189 

Standard  pears  do  not  require  so  much  apace  as  apples  ; 
their  branches  generally  are  more  erect.  In  this  country 
standard  pears  should  not  have  naked  trunks  over  three 
or  four  feet  high,  and  twenty-five  feet  apart  are  quite  suf- 
ficient ;  at  this  distance  an  acre  will  contain  about  seventy 
trees.  These,  as  a  general  thing,  will  not  begin  to  bear 
until  the  tenth  year,  unless  artificial  means  be  resorted  to. 
Some  early-bearing  sorts,  like  the  Bartlett,  may  com- 
mence bearing  much  sooner ;  but,  as  a  general  thing,  the 
crop  from  standard  pears  is  not  of  much  account  until 
the  trees  have  attained  ten  years  of  age,  or  thereabouts. 
By  putting  one  dwarf  standard  between  each,  in  the 
same  row,  and  a  row  ten  feet  apart  between  each  row  of 
standards,  as  in  fig.  99,  we  can  plant  250  dwarfs  or  pyra- 
mids, that  will  commence  bearing  the  third  year,  and  will 
be  in  full  bearing  the  fifth,  yielding  not  less,  on  an  aver- 
age, than  $1  to  $2  per  tree. 

In  selecting  varieties  of  pears  for  profitable  orchard 
culture  on  the  quince,  those  only  should  be  chosen  which 
have  been  well  proved  on  that  stock,  and  also  in  the  lo- 
cality, or  a  similar  one,  and  that  are  popular  in  market. 
Mr.  Quinn,  in  his  book  "  Pear  Culture  for  Profit,"  states 
that  the  Duchesse  d'Angouleme  is  almost  the  only  one 
really  profitable  in  his  soil,  in  New  Jersey. 

The  following  sorts  succeed  well  on  the  quince,  and  are 
profitably  grown  here  :  Louise  Bonne  de  Jersey,  Duchesse 
cTAngoultme,  JSeurre  cVAnjou,  Howell,  Josephine  de 
Malines,  Vicar  of  Winkfield,  to  which  I  might  add  many 
others. 

Peach  trees  should  be  only  one  year  old  from  the  bud, 
and  set  at  a  distance  of  about  fifteen  feet.  At  this  dis- 
tance the  trees  soon  grow  to  afford  each  other  considera- 
ble shelter.  Mr.  W.  C.  Flagg,  of  Alton,  111.,  an  orchard- 
ist  of  experience,  writes  in  Tilton's  Magazine,  Novem- 
ber, 1869,  that  he  plants  his  large  peach  orchards  in 
squares  of  100  trees,  at  sixteen  and  a  half  feet  apart  each 


190  PEBMANENT    PLANTATIONS. 

way.  Each  square  is  composed  wholly  of  one  sort,  for  con- 
venience in  gathering  the  fruit.  Each  square  is  separated 
from  the  next  by  a  double  space,  or  two  rods.  Mr.  Flagg 
objects  to  mixed  orchards,  as  of  apples  and  peaches,  on 
account  of  certain  difficulties  of  cultivation.  There  may 
be  some  force  in  his  objection  in  his  locality,  but,  accord- 
ing to  my  experience,  there  is  none  at  the  East.  Where 
land  is  cheap,  there  is  nothing  gained  by  mixing.  Where 
land  is  worth  from  $200  to  $500  per  acre,  the  case  is  quite 
different. 

Standard  cherries,  on  Mazzard  stocks,  should  not  be 
over  two  years  old  from  the  bud,  with  stems  three  or  four 
feet  high.  In  the  West  and  South,  where  the  trees  are 
subject  to  the  bursting  of  the  bark  on  the  trunk,  it  is  ad- 
visable to  have  the  trees  branched  as  near  the  ground  as 
possible  ;  and  in  such  cases  the  Mahaleb  stock  is  better 
than  the  Mazzard,  as  it  makes  lower,  more  compact,  and 
fertile  trees.  Orchards  of  pyramids,  or  low  dwarfs,  on 
the  Mahaleb,  may  be  planted  at  twelve  feet  apart,  or  the 
ground  may  be  more  compactly  filled  by  planting  stand- 
ards and  dwarfs  alternately,  as  in  the  case  of  the  pears. 
Cherries,  on  the  Mahaleb,  I  would  prefer  to  be  only  one  year 
from  the  bud,  and,  indeed,  this  is  my  choice  on  any  stock. 

Apricots,  on  peach  stocks,  may  be  planted  in  the  same 
soil,  and  should  be  of  the  same  age  and  character  as  the 
peaches.  On  plum  stocks  they  are  better  adapted  to 
heavy  soils. 

Plum-trees,  for  orchard  standards,  should  be  about  two 
years  old  from  the  bud  or  graft,  with  stems  about  three 
feet  high.  The  stone  fruits,  in  particular,  should  have 
low  stems,  as  they  are  more  subject  to  the  gum  on  the 
trunk  if  pruned  up  high.  They  may  be  planted  at  fif- 
teen feet  apart,  the  same  as  peaches  and  apricots.  Quinces 
should  be  two  years  old,  at  least,  and  may  be  three  from 
the  layer,  cutting,  or  bud  ;  they  may  be  planted  twelve 
feet  apart,  which  gives  about  300  to  the  acre. 


THE    ORCHARD.  191 

9th.  Pruning  and  Preparing  the  Trees  for  Planting. — 
When  a  tree  is  taken  up  from  the  nursery,  it  unavoida- 
bly loses  some  of  its  roots,  and  others  are  more  or  less 
mutilated  ;  the  roots  frequently  suffer  by  long  carriage  or 
exposure,  and  in  this  state  it  is  unable  to  support  the 
entire  head  as  it  came  from  the  nursery.  This  has  been 
previously  explained.  In  order  that  a  tree  may  grow,  it 
is  necessary  that  a  balance  should  exist  between  the  stem 
or  branches,  and  the  root ;  consequently,  when  a  tree  is 
transplanted,  its  branches  should  be  reduced  by  shorten- 
ing so  as  to  correspond  with  the  roots.  A  standard  tree, 
that  has  four  or  five  branches  forming  a  head,  should  be 
pruned,  at  the  time  of  planting,  to  within  three  or  four 
buds  of  the  base  of  each  of  the  branches.  These  remain- 
ing buds,  receiving  all  the  nourishment,  will  push  vigor- 
ously, whilst,  if  the  branches  had  been  allowed  to  remain 
entire,  they  would  have  required  a  greater  supply  of  food 
than  the  roots  could  have  furnished,  and  the  tree  would 
either  have  died  or  made  a  very  feeble  growth.  Every 
bud  we  leave  on  the  top  of  a  tree  will  produce  either 
leaves  or  shoots,  and  these  are  so  many  new  individuals 
requiring  sustenance.  If  we  leave  one  hundred,  it  is 
plain  the  demand  will  be  much  greater  than  if  we  leave 
only  twenty.  The  roots  must  be  dressed  by  cutting  back 
all  bruised  points  to  the  sound  wood,  with  a  smooth  cut 
on  the  iinder  side  of  the  root.  Trees  thus  prepared  are 
ready  for  planting. 

10th.  Planting  Orchards. — When  the  soil  has  been 
thoroughly  prepared  by  subsoil  plowing,  or  trenching  the 
season  previous,  the  planting  is  a  simple  matter ;  but  if  this 
has  not  been  done,  planting  properly  requires  considerable 
labor ;  for  large  holes,  three  or  four  feet  wide,  and  one  and  a 
half  to  two  feet  deep,  must  be  dug  for  the  trees,  and  the  re- 
quisite composts  procured  to  be  mixed  with  the  earth  in 
which  the  roots  are  to  be  placed.  The  planting  offers  an  ex- 
»cellent  opportunity  for  supplying  any  defects  in  the  soil; 


192  PERMANENT   PLANTATIONS. 

for  instance,  if  too  compact,  sand,  leaf  mould,  muck,  etc., 
may  be  added,  to  render  it  more  porous ;  and  if  too  light, 
clay,  stiff  loam,  ashes,  etc.,  may  be  added,  to  make  it  more 
retentive.  The  proper  way  to  furnish  these  materials  is 
to  dig  large  holes,  and  put  a  good  bed,  twelve  to  eighteen 
inches  deep,  of  the  compost  in  the  bottom  under  the  trees. 
Lime  should  form  a  part  of  all  composts,  and  especially 
for  the  apple  and  pear ;  half  a  peck  may  be  mixed  with 
the  bed  of  each  tree  in  soil  not  naturally  calcareous.  In 
digging  the  holes,  the  good  surface  soil  should  be  laid  on 
one  side,  so  that  it  can  be  used  to  fill  in  among  the  roots, 
and  for  this  purpose  it  should  be  as  finely  pulverized  as 
possible.  In  a  soil  adapted  to  fruit  culture,  if  in  a  good 
state  of  fertility,  there  is  no  necessity  for  either  large 
holes  or  compost.  Our  mode  of  planting  is  simply  to 
prepare  the  land  by  a  thorough  plowing,  and  then  dig  the 
holes  just  deep  and  wide  enough  to  admit  the  roots,  using 
neither  manure  nor  compost. 

When  the  compost  has  been  laid  in  the  bottom  of  the 
hole,  and  a  layer  of  fine  surface  soil  spread  over  it,  so  as 
to  be  highest  in  the  center,  the  tree  is  set  on  it,  so  that 
when  the  planting  is  finished,  the  collar  will  be  about  two 
inches  below  the  surface.  In  the  case  of  trees  on  dwarf 
stocks,  such  as  pears  on  quince,  all  the  stock  must  be  under 
the  ground.  The  roots  must  be  carefully  adjusted,  so  that 
each  one  is  spread  out  in  its  natural  position  ;  the  fine 
earth  is  then  filled  in  amongst  them,  so  that  no  vacancies 
will  be  left ;  the  upper  roots  should  be  held  back  by  the 
person  who  holds  the  tree  until  the  lower  ones  are  covered. 
When  the  filling-in  is  half  done,  it  mny  be  gently  trodden 
down  with  the  foot,  so  as  to  give  the  tree  a  firmer  hold 
of  the  ground ;  and  when  the  filling-in  of  earth  on  the 
roots  is  finished,  tread  down  firmly.  In  advanced  spring 
planting,  a  pail  of  water  might  be  given  to  each  tree 
when  the  earth  is  partly  filled  in  ;  at  other  times  it  is  un- 
necessary, if  not  injurious.  « 


THE    ORCHARD.  193 

llth.  Staking. — Where  the  trees  are  large,  or  the  situ- 
ation is  exposed,  either  one  or  two  stakes  should  be  plant- 
ed with  each  tree,  to  which  it  must  be  kept  fastened  for 
the  first  season,  until  the  roots  have  fixed  themselves  in 
the  ground.  A  proper  provision  must  be  made  to  pre- 
vent the  tree  from  rubbing  or  chafing  against  the  stake. 
When  two  stakes  are  used,  it  may  be  fastened  to  each  in 
such  a  way  as  not  to  rub  against  either. 

12th.  Mulching. — This  should  be  looked  upon  as  an 
indispensable  operation  in  all  cases.  It  consists  in  laying 
on  the  surface  of  the  ground,  around  the  trees,  to  the  dis- 
tance of  three  feet  or  so,  a  covering  two  or  three  inches 
deep  of  half-decomposed  manure,  short  straw,  hay,  etc., 
or  litter  of  any  kind,  that  may  be  at  hand.  This  prevents 
the  moisture  of  the  soil  from  evaporating,  and  maintains 
a  uniformity  of  heat  and  moisture  which  is  highly  favor- 
able to  the  formation  of  new  roots.  It  also  prevents  the 
growth  of  weeds  around  the  tree,  and  obviates  the  ne- 
cessity of  hoeing,  dressing,  or  watering,  during  the  season. 
We  frequently  practise  it  among  nursery  rows  of  late, 
spring-planted  trees  with  great  advantage.  A  deep 
mulching  should  always  be  given  to  fall-planted  trees,  to 
prevent  the  frost  from  penetrating  to  the  roots  or  draw- 
ing up  the  tree. 

13th.  After-management  of  Orchard  Trees. — This  con- 
sists in  the  cultivation  of  the  soil  among  the  trees,  and 
pruning  them  to  regulate  their  growth.  For  the  first  five 
or  six  years  after  planting,  the  ground  among  orchard 
trees  may  be  advantageously  cropped  with  potatoes,  ruta- 
bagas, or  sugar  beets.  The  manuring  and  culture  that 
these  roots  require  keep  the  soil  in  good  condition,  and 
will  assist  in  defraying  the  expenses  of  the  orchard. 
Grain  crops  should  never  be  planted  among  trees,  as  they 
deprive  them  of  air  to  a  very  injurious  extent.  If  no 
root  crops  are  cultivated,  the  ground  should  be  kept  clean 
and  mellow  with  the  one-horse  plow  and  cultivator,  the 
9 


194  PERMANENT   PLANTATIONS. 

same  as  recommended  for  nursery  culture.  Every  third 
or  fourth  year,  or  when  their  growth  indicates  the  need 
of  it,  the  trees  should  receive  a  dressing  of  well-decom- 
posed manure  or  compost,  spread  on  the  surface  of  the 
ground,  over  the  roots,  or  partially  worked  in  with  a  fork. 
This  should  always  be  done  in  the  fall.  Dwarf  apples 
and  pears  require  more  frequent  and  liberal  manuring 
than  standards,  because  their  roots  occupy  a  limited 
space ;  their  heads  are  large  compared  with  the  roots, 
and  they  bear  exhausting  crops.  Whoever  has  a  large 
plantation  of  these  trees  should  be  well  provided  with 
heaps  of  compost,  a  year  old,  and  give  each  tree  a  peck 
to  half  a  bushel  every  year  before  the  setting  in  of  win- 
ter. This  will  maintain  their  vigor,  and  insure  large 
and  regular  crops  of  fine  fruit..  Directions  for  pruning 
and  forming  the  heads  of  standard  trees  will  be  treated 
of  under  the  general  head  of  pruning.  A  good  way  of 
renewing  the  soil  where  manure  cannot  be  had  is  to  sow 
peas,  and  when  they  are  grown  just  to  blossom,  plow 
them  under. 

There  are  those  who  advocate  seeding  orchards  with 
some  of  the  finer  grasses,  such  as  are  used  for  lawns,  and 
keeping  it  cut  short.  The  advantage  claimed  is,  that  it 
protects  the  roots  from  excessive  heat  in  the  summer.  I 
think  this  may  answer  tolerably  well  for  the  apple,  but 
for  all  others,  and  even  for  that,  I  should  prefer  a  mulch- 
ing of  straw,  hay,  or  some  sort  of  litter,  during  the  great- 
est heat  of  summer.  At  the  North  we  do  not  even  need 
this. 

In  some  parts  of  the  West  and  South,  where  the  pear 
suffers  from  leaf  blight,  mulching  during  the  warm  sea- 
son is  a  necessity,  and  will,  I  am  sure,  prove  far  more 
beneficial  than  grass,  no  matter  how  short  it  may  be  kept. 


THE   FRUIT   GARDEN.  195 

SECTION  3. — THE  FRUIT  GARDEN. 

The  fruit  garden  is  a  plantation  of  fruit-trees,  intended 
to  supply  the  family  with  fruit.  In  some  cases,  where  a 
large  supply  of  fruit  is  wanted,  and  the  proprietor  has 
land  and  means  to  warrant  it,  a  certain  portion  of  ground 
is  wholly  devoted  to  it ;  and  in  others  it  forms  a  separate 
compartment  of  the  kitchen  garden,  or  is  mixed  with  it — 
the  fruit-trees  occupying  the  borders,  or  outsides  of  the 
compartments,  and  the  culinary  vegetables  the  interior. 
The  latter  is  most  general,  in  this  country,  at  the  present 
time.  In  a  country  like  ours,  so  well  adapted  to  fruit 
culture,  where  almost  every  citizen  not  only  occupies  but 
owns  a  garden,  and,  as  a  general  thing,  possesses  suffi- 
cient means  to  enable  him  to  devote  it  to  the  culture  of 
the  higher  and  better  class  of  garden  productions,  the 
fruit  garden  is  destined  to  be,  if  it  is  not  already,  an  ob- 
ject of  great  importance.  In  the  old  countries  of  Europe, 
the  rich  alone,  or  those  comparatively  so,  are  permitted 
to  enjoy  such  luxury ;  for  land  is  so  dear  that  working 
people  are  unable  to  purchase  it,  and  if  they  are,  they  are 
either  unable  to  stock  it  with  trees,  or  their  necessities 
compel  them  to  devote  it  to  the  production  of  the 
coarsest  articles  of  vegetable  food  that  can  be  produced 
in  the  greatest  bulk.  It  is  not  so  in  America.  Here 
every  industrious  man,  at  the  age  of  five-and-twenty, 
whatever  may  be  his  pursuits,  may,  if  he  choose,  be 
the  proprietor  of  a  garden  of  some  extent,  and  possess 
sufficient  means  to  stock  it  with  the  finest  fruits  of  the  land. 

The  present  actual  state  of  the  population  gives  abun- 
dant evidence  of  this  happy  and  prosperous  condition. 
Let  us  look  at  our  cities  and  villages.  In  Rochester, 
excepting  a  narrow  circle  in  its  very  center,  every  house 
has  its  garden,  varying  in  extent  from  twenty-five  by  one 
hundred  feet  to  an  acre  of  ground,  and  not  one  of  these 
but  is  nearly  filled  with  fruit-trees ;  and  so  it  is,  but  on  a 


196  PERMANENT   PLANTATIONS. 

larger  scale,  in  all  the  villages  of  Western  New  York — 
a  section  of  country  in  winch  the  first  white  man's  settle- 
ment can  scarcely  date  back  over  sixty  years.  Aside 
from  the  beneficial  results  to  individual  and  public  health 
and  prosperity  from  this  general  union  of  the  fruit  garden 
and  the  dwelling,  it  cannot  fail  to  exercise  a  softening 
and  refining  influence  on  the  tastes,  habits,  and  manners 
of  the  people,  and  greatly  strengthen  their  love  of  home 
and  country. 

The  great  thing  wanting  at  this  moment  is  a  knowledge 
of  the  correct  method  of  planting  and  managing  fruit 
gardens.  We  cannot  pass  along  the  streets  a  rod,  where 
there  is  a  garden,  without  seeing  and  feeling  that  three- 
fourths  of  the  profit  and  pleasure  which  gardens  might 
afford,  are  sacrificed  to  bad  management,  arising,  in  the 
main,  from  ignorance  of  the  proper  modes  of  culture 
adapted  to  such  limited  grounds ;  and  it  is  hoped  that 
the  suggestions  and  plans  offered  in  the  following  detail 
of  fruit-garden  management  may  afford  at  least  a  portion 
of  the  information  wanted. 

The  formation  of  a  fruit  garden  requires  a  considera- 
tion of  the  soil,  situation,  inclosures,  laying  out,  selection 
of  trees,  selection  of  varieties,  and  planting. 

1st.  The  Situation. — This  is  generally  governed  by  the 
particular  circumstances  of  the  proprietor,  those  only 
who  build  with  reference  to  the  location  of  the  garden,  or 
who  have  a  large  domain  at  their  disposal,  having  an 
opportunity  of  selection  to  any  considerable  extent.  Per- 
sons who  live  in  cities  and  villages  have  to  make  the 
best  of  their  situation.  As  it  is,  if  it  be  exposed,  they 
can  only  give  it  protection  by  lofty  inclosures,  that  will 
break  the  force  of  the  winds.  The  aspect  they  cannot 
alter,  and  must  adapt  other  circumstances  to  it.  Those 
who  can  should  select  a  situation  convenient  enough  to 
the  dwelling  to  render  it  at  all  times  easy  of  access,  in 
order  to  save  time  and  labor  in  going  to  and  from  it.  It 


THE    FKUIT    GARDEN.  197 

should  also  be  sheltered  from  the  north  and  west  winds. 
The  former  are  destructive  to  the  blossoms  in  spring, 
and  the  latter  frequently  blow  off  the  fruit  before  its 
maturity.  In  sections  of  the  country  subject  to  late 
spring  frosts,  an  elevated  situation  is  to  be  preferred,  as 
in  the  case  of  orchards.  A  full  eastern  or  southern  aspect 
should  be  avoided,  because  in  both  the  sun's  rays  strike 
the  trees  while  the  frost  is  upon  them,  and  produce  in- 
juries that  would  be  avoided  in  other  aspects.  Where 
artificial  shelter  is  required,  a  belt  of  rapid-growing  trees, 
composed  of  evergreens  and  deciduous  trees  mixed,  should 
be  planted  on  the  exposed  side,  but  at  such  a  distance  as 
to  obviate  any  difficulty  that  might  arise  from  the  injuri- 
ous effects  of  shade,  or  from  the  roots  entering  the  gar- 
den. Such  a  belt  of  trees  might,  at  the  same  time,  be 
made  to  impart  a  pleasing  and  highly  ornamental  appear- 
ance to  the  grounds. 

2d.  The  Soil  is  a  most  important  consideration.  As  in 
a  garden  a  general  collection  of  all  the  fruits  is  to  be 
grown,  and  that  in  the  highest  state  of  perfection,  the 
soil  should  be  of  that  character'  in  its  texture,  depth,  and 
quality,  best  adapted  to  general  purposes.  It  should  not 
only  be  suitable  for  the  apple  and  the  pear,  but  for  the 
peach,  the  cherry,  and  the  plum — a  good,  deep,  friable 
loam,  with  a  gravelly  clay  subsoil,  and  entirely  free  from 
stagnant  moisture.  In  this  country,  our  warm  summers 
and  frequent,  protracted  drouths  render  a  deep  soil  for 
a  garden  absolutely  necessary.  The  means  for  deepening, 
drying,  improving,  and  changing  the  character  of  soils 
have  been  already  pointed  out  under  the  general  head  of 
Soils,  and  need  not  be  repeated  here.  Suffice  it  to  say, 
that  it  will  always  be  found  true  economy  to  be  liberal  in 
the  first  preparation  of  the  soil;  for  after  a  garden  is  laid 
out  and  permanently  planted,  improvements  are  always 
made  with  greater  difficulty  and  expense. 

Inclosures. — The  cheapest  and  most   ordinary  kind  of 


198  PERMANENT    PLANTATIONS. 

inclosure  for  gardens,  in  this  country,  is  the  tight  board 
fence,  and  the  picket  or  paling  fence.  The  former  should 
be  made  of  stout  cedar  posts,  set  at  six  feet  apart  and 
three  or  four  feet  in  the  ground,  the  ends  being  previously 
charred,  or  covered  with  hot  gas-tar,  to  increase  their 
durability,  connected  in  the  middle  and  on  the  top  with 
cross-bars,  or  rails,  which  may  be  two  by  four  inches. 
The  boards  should  be  well  seasoned,  matched,  and  se- 
curely nailed  to  the  cross-bars.  Where  the  fence  is 
required  to  be  higher  than  the  posts,  the  boards  can  ex- 
tend above  the  top  rail  two,  three,  or  even  four  feet,  if 
necessary.  The  picket  or  paling  fence  is  made  in  the 
same  way,  as  far  as  the  framework,  posts,  and  cross-bars 
go ;  but,  instead  of  matched  boards,  pickets,  from  three 
to  six  inches  wide,  and  pointed  on  the  top,  are  used,  and 
a  space  of  two  inches  left  between  each.  Where  the  pro- 
prietor can  afford  the  expense  of  a  brick  or  stone  wall,  it 
will  prove  the  most  permanent,  and,  in  the  end,  the  cheap- 
est inclosure.  The  hight  of  the  fence  or  wall  depends 
somewhat  on  the  extent  of  the  garden.  In  ordinary  cases, 
eight  or  ten  feet  are  the  proper  hight,  but  when  the  gar- 
den is  very  small,  five  or  six  feet  are  enough  ;  and  the  open 
paling  will  be  preferable,  except  on  the  north  side,  to  the 
tight  board  fence,  as  it  offers  less  obstruction  to  the  air 
and  light.  A  high  fence  around  a  very  small  garden,  be- 
sides being  injurious  to  vegetation  in  it,  looks  quite  out 
of  character,  giving  to  it  the  appearance  of  a  huge  box. 
Live  hedges,  as  recommended  for  orchards,  might  be 
employed  around  country  gardens  of  considerable  extent, 
say  an  acre  or  upwards,  but  they  require  to  be  kept  in  the 
neatest  possible  condition. 

Trellises. — In  England,  and  other  parts  of  Europe, 
where  the  summer  temperature  is  not  so  high  as  it  is  here, 
espalier  trees  are  trained  directly  on  the  garden  walls  or 
fence ;  but  our  hot  sun  renders  this  unsafe,  except  in  the 
case  of  the  grape,  or  on  the  north  sides  of  the  walls.  The 


THE    FRUIT    GARDEN.  199 

sun  strikes  the  south  side  of  a  fence  with  such  force  that 
the  foliage  in  contact  with  it  is  burned.  It  is  therefore 
necessary,  where  the  walls  or  fences  are  to  be  occupied 
with  espaliers,  to  erect  suitable  trellises  at  the  distance  of 
six  to  twelve  inches  from  them,  on  which  to  train  the 
trees.  The  form  of  these  differs  according  to  the  nature 
of  the  subject  to  be  trained.  They  are  generally  made  of 
upright  and  cross-bars,  of  inch  boards,  three  inches  wide, 
placed  within  six  to  twelve  inches  of  each  other,  accord- 
ing to  the  growth  of  the  species  ;  the  larger  the  foliage 
and  the  longer  the  shoots,  the  greater  may  be  the  dis- 
tances ;  thus,  the  grape  twelve  inches,  and  the  peach 
eight.  Sometimes  they  are  constructed  of  wooden  bars 
and  wire  rods  alternately ;  these  answer  a  good  purpose 
for  the  grape,  as  it  fixes  itself  to  the  wires  by  the  tendrils. 
The  trellis  is  fastened  to  the  wall  by  iron  hooks,  and 
should  stand  a  little  farther  from  it  at  the  bottom  than  at 
the  top,  for  the  purpose  of  giving  the  tree  a  better  ex- 
posure to  the  sun,  rain,  etc.  Fruits  are  grown  so  suc- 
cessfully in  this  country  in  the  open  ground  that  walls  or 
trellises  are  seldom  used,  except  to  economize  space.  In 
the  North,  however,  where  the  more  tender  fruits  do  not 
succeed  in  the  open  ground,  walls  may  be  advantageously 
employed,  as  the  trees  trained  on  them  are  easily  pro- 
tected both  from  winter  and  spring  frosts. 

Laying  Out  the  Fruit  Garden. — This  is  the  arrange- 
ment or  distribution  of  the  ground  into  suitable  plots  or 
compartments,  necessary  walks,  etc.  The  mode  of  doing 
this  depends  on  the  size  of  the  garden,  and  the  manner  in 
which  it  is  to  be  planted.  Fruit  gardens,  properly  speak- 
ing, are  such  as  are  wholly  devoted  to  fruits ;  but  a  very 
common  form,  as  has  been  already  observed,  is  the  mixed 
garden,  where  a  portion  only  is  devoted  to  fruits,  and  the 
remainder  to  culinary  vegetables.  We  will  first  consider 

The  Fruit  Garden  proper. — In  all  fruit  gardens  the 
number  of  walks  should  be  no  greater  than  is  absolutely 


200 


PERMANENT    PLANTATIONS. 


necessary  for  convenience.     In  small 


iiiiiii 


Fig.  100. — PLAN  OF  A  SMALL  FRUIT  GARDEN. 


places,  the  better 
plan  appears  to 
be  to  carry  the 
principal  walk 
around  the  out- 
side, leaving  as 
much  as  possible 
of  the  interior, 
where  air  and 
light  are  enjoyed 
to  the  greatest 
extent,  for  the 
trees.  A  border 
should  be  left  be- 
tween the  fence 
and  the  walk,  of 
sufficient  width 
for  the  trees  to 
be  trained  on  the 
fence  trellis.  If 
appearances  were 
to  be  strictly  ob- 
served, this  bor- 
der should  be  as 
wide  as  the  fence 
is  high,  but,  as 
a  general  thing, 
five  to  six  feet 
will  be  sufficient ; 
and  wh  ere 


ground  is  limited,  appearance  must,  in  many  cases,  be 
sacrified  to  economy.  Where  the  work  is  all  performed 
by  manual  labor,  the  walks  need  not  be  more  than  five 
to  six  feet  wide,  as  that  admits  of  the  passage  of  a  wheel- 
barrow, and  this  is  all  that  is  required. 

Fig.  100  is  a  design  for  a  very  small  garden,  fifty  feet  by 


THE    FRUIT    GAKDEN.  201 

one  hundred.  A  is  the  entrance  gate,  four  feet  wide ; 
JS,  _Z?,  a  walk,  five  feet  wide ;  (7,  (7,  fence  border,  six  feet 
wide.  The  rows  of  trees  are  eight  feet  apart.  The  pyram- 
idal pears  and  cherries,  Nos.  1,  2,  3,  and  4,  at  seven  feet 
apart  in  the  row.  N"os.  5  and  6,  dwarf  apples,  at  four 
feet  apart.  No.  7,  pyramidal  or  dwarf  standard  plums, 
at  seven  feet.  JSTos.  8,  9,  and  10,  low  standard  peaches, 
at  ten  feet  apart,  the  outside  ones  four  feet  from  the  walk. 
ITos.  11,  12,  13,  and  14,  low  standard  quinces,  etc.  ISTos. 
15,  16,  17,  18,  19,  and  20,  espaliers,  apricots,  grapes,  etc. 
One  border  is  filled  with  gooseberries  and  currants,  the 
other  can  be  occupied  with  raspberries  and  strawberries. 
This  arrangement  gives  in  this  little  garden  twenty  pyram- 
idal trees,  thirteen  standards,  twelve  dwarfs,  six  espal- 
iers, besides  space  enough  for  two  dozen  currants,  two 
dozen  gooseberries,  two  dozen  raspberries,  etc.  For  sev- 
eral years  a  few  strawberries  and  low  vegetables,  such  as 
lettuces,  radishes,  beets,  carrots,  turnips,  or  even  dwarf 
pea*,  may  be  grown  in  the  spaces  among  the  trees,  but  iu 
no  case  to  be  permitted  nearer  than  within  three  feet  of 
a  tree.  In  regard  to  distance  between  trees,  my  ex- 
perience is,  that  where  a  good  crop  is  of  more  importance 
than  a  great  variety,  dwarf  and  pyramidal  trees  of  the 
pear,  plum,  cherry,  peach,  apricot,  nectarine,  and  quince, 
should  have  ten  to  twelve  feet.  This  distance  would  re- 
duce the  number  of  trees  in  the  plan  (fig.  100). 

The  mixed,  or  fruit  and  kitchen  garden,  is  laid  out  in 
a  similar  manner.  The  trees  are  planted  in  rows,  on  a  bor- 
der six  to  ten  feet  wide,  according  to  the  size  of  the  trees, 
along  the  walks,  leaving  the  interior  of  the  compartments 
for  vegetables.  This  arrangement  is  a  very  common  one, 
and  generally  answers  a  very  good  purpose ;  but  where 
it  is  practicable,  it  is  much  better  to  devote  a  separate 
portion  exclusively  to  fruit,  in  order  that  the  one  may  not 
in  any  way  interfere  with  the  other.  In  such  a  garden, 
the  number  of  the  walks,  and  consequently  fruit  borders, 
9* 


202  PERMANENT  PLANTATIONS. 

will  depend  upon  the  proportion  of  the  ground  intended 
to  be  allotted  to  fruit ;  and  this  again  will  be  regulated  by 
the  means,  taste,  and  demands  of  the  family. 

The  frontispiece  of  this  work  gives  the  plan  of  a  mixed 
fruit  and  kitchen  garden,  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  wide 
by  two  hundred  long,  being  one  hundred  and  ten  square 
rods ;  somewhat  less  than  three-quarters  of  an  acre.  The 
design  is  to  have  two  tree  borders  exclusive  of  the  outside 
or  fence  border.  The  center  main  walk,  from  A.  to  (7,  is 
ten  feet  wide.  That  crossing  it  in  the  center,  six  feet 
wide.  The  small  walk,  next  the  fence  border,  four  feet 
wide,  and  that  between  the  two  tree  borders,  five  feet. 
The  fence  border  is  six  feet  wide,  and  may  be  planted 
with  espalier  trees,  vines,  etc.,  besides  currants,  raspber- 
ries, strawberries,  or  anything  of  low  growth,  not  requir- 
ing the  fullest  exposure.  The  tree  borders  are  all  eight 
feet  wide,  except  the  dwarf-apple  border,  which  is  only 
six.  The  outside  border  is  planted  on  the  two  sides  with 
low  standard  or  pyramidal  peaches,  apricots,  plums, 
quinces,  etc.,  at  twelve  feet  apart,  and  the  two  ends  with 
pyramids,  at  eight  feet. 

The  inside  borders  are  planted  with  pyramids  and 
dwarfs,  the  former  at  eight,  and  the  latter  at  six  feet 
apart.  A,  is  the  entrance  ;  B,  well  or  cistern ;  (7,  a  space 
to  turn  a  horse  and  cart  upon.  This  arrangement  gives 
thirty  standard  trees,  eighty-three  pyramids,  and  forty 
dwarfs,  leaving  clear  the  outside  border,  over  six  hundred 
and  sixty  feet  long,  and  six  wide,  and  the  four  interior 
compartments,  each  about  thirty  by  sixty  feet.  In  crop- 
ping the  latter  with  vegetables,  they  may  be  divided,  as 
in  the  design,  into  narrow  beds,  three  or  four  feet  wide, 
separated  by  paths,  eighteen  inches  wide.  In  gardens  of 
greater  extent,  it  will  be  well  to  increase  the  distance  be- 
tween the  trees. 

Walks  in  the  Fruit  Garden. — The  number  of  these,  as 
has  been   remarked,  should  be  simply  sufficient  for   con- 


THE    FKTJIT   GARDEN.  203 

ducting  the  operations  of  gardening  with  convenience ; 
this  being  provided  for,  the  fewer  the  better.  Where 
horse  labor  is  employed,  the  main  walk,  either  through 
the  center  or  around  the  sides,  should  be  nine  or  ten  feet 
wide.  Where  manual  labor  alone  is  employed,  as  in 
small  gardens,  five  or  six  feet  will  be  sufficient,  and  even 
four  feet,  as  that  admits  of  the  passage  of  a  wheelbarrow. 
Between  each  compartment,  or  line  of  trees,  there  should 
also  be  a  path,  two  or  three  feet  wide,  as  a  passage  for 
the  gardener  or  workmen,  and  others  who  may  desire  to 
inspect  the  trees.  Where  the  expense  can  be  afforded, 
the  main  walks  should  be  gravelled,  so  as  to  be  dry  and 
comfortable  at  all  seasons,  and  in  every  state  of  the  wea- 
ther ;  for  it  is  presumed  that  every  man  who  has  a  fruit 
garden,  worthy  of  the  name,  will  wish  to  visit  it  almost 
daily,  and  so  will  the  members  of  his  family  and  his 
friends  who  visit  him.  The  labor  and  expense  of  making 
a  walk  depends  upon  the  nature  of  the  soil.  If  dry, 
with  a  porous  subsoil,  absorbing  water  rapidly,  six 
inches  of  good  pit  gravel,  slightly  rounded  on  the  top, 
will  be  sufficient.  If  the  soil  be  damp  and  the  subsoil 
compact,  it  will  be  necessary  to  remove  the  earth  to  the 
depth  of  a  foot  in  the  center,  and  rising  towards  the  sides, 
so  that  the  excavation  will  resemble  a  semicircle  ;  this  is 
filled  with  small  stones,  and  a  few  inches  •  of  good  pit 
gravel  on  the  top.  This  makes  a  walk  dry  at  all  times. 
We  often  see  very  comfortable  and  neat-looking  walks 
made  of  spent  bark  from  the  tannery ;  six  inches  deep  of 
this  will  last  two  or  three  years,  and  no  excavation  is 
necessary  in  any  kind  of  soil.  It  is  not  to  be  supposed 
that  so  great  expense  will  be  incurred,  in  any  case,  in  the 
formation  of  the  walks  of  a  fruit  or  kitchen  garden,  as 
those  of  a  pleasure  ground  or  flower  garden,  and  there- 
fore it  is  unnecessary  to  suggest  either  costly  modes  or 
materials.  The  chief  point  is  to  secure  dry,  comfortable 
walking,  without  introducing  any  material  that  will 


204  PERMANENT   PLANTATIONS. 

produce  a  decidedly  unpleasant  contrast  with  vegetation. 
This  can  all  be  accomplished  by  the  cheap  and  simple 
means  referred  to,  and  others  that  may  suggest  them- 
selves. 

The  main  walks  alone  should  be  gravelled  ;  the  smaller 
alleys,  or  paths,  between  the  different  lines  of  trees  or  com- 
partments of  the  garden,  are  principally  for  the  use  of  the 
workmen.  In  very  small  gardens,  where  it  is  important 
to  economize  the  ground,  the  spaces  devoted  to  the  walks 
may  be  of  plank,  raised  on  pillars  or  blocks  a  foot  from 
the  ground  ;  the  roots  of  trees  can  then  penetrate  the 
ground  below  the  walk  as  well  as  the  border,  and  scarce 
any  ground  will  be  lost. 

Water. — A  supply  of  water  in  the  garden  is  a  most 
important  consideration  in  our  warm,  dry,  sunny  climate. 
Good  crops  of  culinary  vegetables  cannot  be  secured  in 
many  seasons  without  a  liberal  application  of  water;  and 
fruit-trees  are  greatly  benefited  by  frequent  showering, 
especially  in  dry  weather.  It  refreshes  them  and  drives 
away  insects.  A  good  well  or  cistern  should  therefore 
be  provided  in  every  garden,  and  be  situated  as  near  the 
center  as  possible,  to  be  convenient  to  all  parts. 

SELECTION    OF   TUBES. 

Their  Form. — We  sturt  upon  the  principle  that,  in 
all  cases,  tall  standard  trees,  such  as  are  usually  planted 
in  orchards,  are  totally  unfit  for  the  garden.  This  is  the 
chief  defect  in  American  fruit  gardening.  All  the  trees 
for  a  fruit  garden  should  be  either  dwarf  'standards,  with 
trunks  two  to  three  feet  high,  pyramids,  branched  from 
the  ground,  or  bushes,  with  stems  six  to  twelve  inches 
high.  Trees  in  these  forms  are,  in  the  first  place,  in  keep- 
ing with  the  limited  extent  of  the  garden,  and  convey,  at 
first  sight,  the  idea  of  fitness.  In  the  second  place,  they 
give  a  great  variety  on  a  small  space,  for  three  or  four 


THE    FRUIT    GARDEN.  205 

such  trees  will  not  occupy  more  space  than  one  standard. 
In  the  third  place,  they  are  in  a  convenient  form  for  man- 
agement ;  they  are  easily  pruned  or  protected,  and  the 
fruit  is  easily  gathered,  and  less  likely  to  be  blown  off 


Fig.  101. — PYRAMIDAL   APPLE-TREE. 

than  on  tall  trees.     Finally,  they  bear  several  years  sooner 
than  standards. 

Among  the  forms  mentioned,  the  pyramid  is  certainly 
the  most  beautiful ;  and  in  the  best  fruit  gardening 
regions  of  Europe,  where  almost  every  conceivable  form 
of  tree  has  been  tried,  it  is  to-day  the  most  popular, 


206  PERMANENT   PLANTATIONS. 

because  it  has  proved  the  most  advantageous  and  success- 
ful. The  apple  for  pyramids  (fig.  101)  should  be  on  the 
Doucin  stock.  Certain  varieties,  such  as  the  Hawthorn- 
den,  Keswitik  Codlin,  Summer  Rose,  Duchess  of  Olden- 
burg, and  many  other  moderate  growers  and  early  bearers, 
will  make  good  pyramids  on  free  stocks,  but  they  will 
require  more  summer  pruning  and  careful  management  to 
keep  their  vigor  under  check  than  they  would  on  the 
Doucin.  But  apples  for  the  fruit  garden,  even  on  the 


Fig.  102. — DWARF  BUSH  APPLE-TREE. 

Doucin,  should  be  such  as  naturally  make  small  trees,  and 
are  inclined  to  early  bearing.  In  these  respects,  it  is  very 
well  known  there  is  a  wide  difference  between  varieties. 
Those  mentioned  above,  and  others  similar  in  character, 
frequently  bear,  on  free  stocks  in  the  nursery  rows,  at  the 
age  of  three  or  four  years  from  the  burl,  whilst  others  do 
not  bear  until  eight  or  ten  years  old.  This  is  a  point  that 
should  always  be  regarded  in  selecting  garden  trees ;  for 
it  is  the  natural  and  proper  desire  of  every  one  who 
plants  a  tree  in  the  garden  to  obtain  fruit  from  it  ns  early 
as  possible. 


THE    FRUIT   GARDEN.  207 

The  Apple  for  Dwarfs. — The  apple,  worked  on  the 
Paradise,  makes  a  beautiful  little  dwarf  bush.  We  know 
of  nothing  more  interesting  in  the  fruit  garden  than  a 
row  or  a  little  square  of  these  miniature  apple-trees  (fig. 
102),  either  in  blossom  or  in  fruit.  Those  who  have  not 
seen  them  may  imagine  an  apple-tree,  four  feet  high,  and 
the  same  in  width  of  branches,  covered  with  blossoms  in 
the  spring,  or  loaded  with  magnificent  golden  and  crim- 
son fruit  in  the  autumn.  They  begin  to  bear  the  third 
year  from  the  bud,  and  the  same  variety  is  always  larger 
and  finer  on  them  than  on  standards.  We  have  had  Red 
Astrachans  on  Paradise  that  measured  eleven  inches  in 
circumference.  The  French  plant  a  square  or  compart- 
ment of  these  in  the  kitchen  or  fruit  garden,  as  they  do 
gooseberries  and  currants,  six  feet  apart ;  they  also  alter- 
nate them  with  pyramidal  pear-trees,  in  rows;  and  in 
some  of  the  best  mixed  kitchen  and  fruit  gardens  two 
dwarf  apples  are  planted  between  two  pyramidal  pears, 
thus  giving  double  the  number  of  apples  as  of  the  pears 
in  a  border  or  row.  In  small  gardens,  the  apple  should 
not  be  admitted  under  any  other  form,  and  even  to  a 
limited  extent  in  that ;  for  it  is  the  great  fruit  of  the 
orchard,  and  in  nearly  all  parts  of  this  country  extensive- 
ly grown,  and  can  be  purchased  at  very  moderate  rates. 

Dwarf  Apple  trained  in  Horizontal  Cordon. — In  Eu- 


Fig.  103.— APPLE  CORDON  (Single). 

ropean  gardens,  the  dwarf   apple  is  frequently   trained 
on  what  are  called  "  horizontal  cordons  "  along:  the  walk 

& 

borders,  and  are  very  pretty  objects. 

The  cordon,  as  the  drawing  (fig.    103)  shows,  consists 


208 


PERMANENT    PLANTATIONS. 


of  single  stems,  or  arms,  trained  horizontally  on  a  wire  or 
wooden  rail,  about  ten  or  twelve  inches  from  the  ground. 


Fig.  104. — APPLE  CORDON  (Double). 

This  stem,  or  cordon,  is  kept  furnished  with  fruit  spurs,  and 
produces  fruit  on  its  entire  length.  The  cordon  may  be  either 
single  or  double.  The  single  consists  of  a  single  stem,  or 

arm,  and  the  double 
of  a  pair  of  arms, 
one  trained  to  each 
side,  as  in  fig.  104. 
The  Pear  as  a 
Pyramid  (fig.  10.~>). 
— The  pear  is  emi- 
nently the  tree  for 
the  pyramidal  form, 
either  on  the  free 
stock  or  on  the 
quince.  On  the  lat- 
ter, however,  the 
trees  bear  much  ear- 
lier, are  more  pro- 
lific, more  manage- 
able, and  conse- 
quently preferable 
for  small  gardens. 
On  the  pear  stock 
they  require  con- 
stant summer  prun- 
ing: and  pin  chin  £r 

Fiff.  105.— PYRAMIDAL  PEAR-TREE.  °_      . 

7  feet  high;  4  feet  wide  at  the  base.  and>   m   8Ome   CaSGS> 


THE    FRUIT    GARDEN.  209 

root  pruning,  to  subdue  the  natural  vigor,  and  induce 
early  fruitfulness.  Certain  varieties,  however,  do  not 
succeed  on  the  quince,  but  a  large  number  of  melting 
varieties  do,  and  produce  larger  and  finer  fruit  on  it 
than  on  the  free  stock.  The  tardiness  of  bearing  of 
the  pear-tree,  when  grown  in  the  ordinary  standard 
form,  on  pear  stock,  has,  more  than  any  other  cause, 
retarded  its  general  cultivation.  No  better  proof  of 
this  can  be  adduced  than  the  general  partiality  now 
shown  for  trees  on  quince  stocks  that  bear  at  the  age  of 
three  or  four  years.  The  introduction  of  these  trees,  a 
few  years  ago,  was  really  the  first  thing  that  gave  a  gen- 
eral impulse  to  pear-tree  planting.  With  most  people,  it 
is  a  very  important  thing  to  obtain  fruit  in  two  or  three 
years,  instead  of  waiting  eight  or  ten.  The  best  man- 
agement of  trees  on  free  stocks  cannot  bring  them  into  a 
bearing  state  short  of  six  or  seven  years,  unless  it  be 
some  remarkably  precocious  variety.  People,  therefore, 
who  wish  pear-trees  for  pyramids  that  are  easily  man- 
aged, and  will  bear  early,  will  select  them  on  quince 
stocks,  in  case  the  varieties  they  wish  to  cultivate  have 
been  proved  to  succeed  well  on  it. 

The  Cherry  is  as  easily  managed  in  the  pyramidal  form 
as  the  pear — not  only  the  free-growing  sorts,  Hearts  and 
Bigarreaus,  but  the  Dukes  and  Morellos  •  the  latter, 
however,  are  less  vigorous,  and  more  easily  managed. 
All  should  be  worked  on  the  Mahaleb  stock ;  this  has,  to 
some  extent,  the  same  effect  on  the  cherry  as  the  quince 
has  on  the  pear.  After  the  second  or  third  year's  growth, 
it  subdues  their  vigor,  and  induces  fruitfulness.  The 
Dukes  and  Morellos  should  be  chosen  where  very  small 
trees  are  desirable. 

The  Plum  as  a  Pyramid. — The  plum  has  rarely  been 
cultivated  as  a  pyramid,  but  recent  experiments  prove 
that  it  is  quite  susceptible  of  that  form  under  proper 
management.  It  should  be  worked  on  a  stock  calculated 


210  PERMANENT   PLANTATIONS. 

to  subdue  its  natural  vigor.  The  native,  or  Canada  plum, 
and  the  Myrobolan,  or  Cherry  plum,  are  suitable.  Sum- 
mer pruning  and  pinching,  as  well  as  occasional  root 
pruning,  are  all  necessary  to  check  the  vigor  of  most 
kinds,  and  keep  them  in  suitable  dimensions  for  small 
gardens  where  it  is  necessary  to  plant  them  close.  Our 
specimen  plum  orchard  consists  entirely  of  dwarf  stand- 
ard and  pyramidal  trees,  planted  in  rows,  ten  feet  apart, 
and  eight  feet  apart  in  the  ro\v.  They  were  planted  some 
twelve  or  fifteen  years  ago,  and  aro  now  models  of  beauty 
and  productiveness — that,  too,  without  any  summer 
pruning,  root  pruning,  or  pinching. 

The  Plum  as  a  Dwarf  Standard. — Besides  the  pyra- 
mid, this  is  the  only  form  in  which  the  plum  should  be 
admitted  into  the  garden.  The"  dwarf  standard,  with  a 
trunk  two  or  three  feet  in  hight,  and  a  symmetrical, 
round  head,  is  a  very  pretty  and  appropriate  form,  and 
requires  less  skill  and  care  in  the  management  than  the 
pyramid ;  and  with  proper  care,  the  trees  require  but 
little,  if  any,  more  space. 

The  Peach. — The  best  garden  form  for  the  peach  in 
this  country,  generally,  is  that  of  the  dwarf  standard, 
with  a  trunk  eighteen  inches  to  two  feet.  With  proper 
management,  which  will  hereafter  be  described,  this  form 
is  easily  conducted,  even  when  the  trees  are  on  peach 
stocks.  The  plum  stock,  and  especially  the  sorts  recom- 
mended for  dwarf  plums,  give  trees  that  are  less  vigor- 
ous, and  more  easily  kept  in  a  small  space.  In  most  parts 
of  our  country,  the  fruit  ripens  perfectly  in  the  open 
ground,  so  that  espalier  or  oblique  cordon  training,  as  has 
been  remarked,  is  seldom  practised,  unless  to  save  ground, 
or  in  northern  localities,  where  protection  of  the  buds 
during  winter,  or  of  the  blossoms  in  the  spring,  is  neces- 
sary. In  such  cases  alone  are  espaliers  to  be  recommended, 
as  they  require  much  greater  care  in  pruning  and  train- 
ing than  any  other  form.  Espalier  trees  are  of  various 


THE    FRUIT   GARDEN.  211 

forms,  but  the  fan,  as  it  is  termed,  is  the  best  adapted  to 
the  peach.  It  consists  of  two  main  branches  or  divisions 
of  the  stem,  spread  out  in  the  form  of  a  Y;  each  of  these 
bears  a  certain  number,  as  many  as  may  be  necessary 
to  fill  the  trellis,  of  secondary  branches,  and  these  furnish 
the  bearing  wood.  The  production  and  management  of 
this  and  other  espalier  forms  will  be  treated  fully  under 
the  head  of  pruning  and  training. 

The  Apricot  and  Nectarine. — The  remarks  applied  to 
the  peach  apply  with  equal  force  to  both  these  trees  ; 
they  succeed  equally  well  as  low  standards  or  as  espal- 
iers or  cordons.  The  apricot  is  more  generally  grown  in 
these  forms  than  any  other  tree,  because  its  early  blossoms 
are  so  easily  protected,  and  the  cnrculio  does  not  appear 
to  be  so  troublesome  to  it  as  in  the  standard  form. 

The  Quince,  in  the  garden,  should  either  be  a  dwarf 
bush,  with  a  stem  twelve  to  eighteen  inches  high,  and  a 
compact,  symmetrical  head,  or  a  pyramid.  In  the  latter 
form  it  is  quite  easily  trained,  but  requires  more  care, 
of  course,  than  as  a  bush,  as  the  upper  part  of  the  tree 
must  always  be  kept  subordinate  to  the  lower,  and  this 
requires  regular  and  constant  attention.  No  fruit  tree 
is  more  neglected  than  the  quince,  and  yet  it  is  a  profita- 
ble and  most  beautiful  tree,  either  in  blossom  or  fruit. 
It  well  repays  the  care  required  to  keep  it  in  proper 
shape. 

TJie  Filbert. — The  remarks  on  the  quince  may  be  ap- 
plied with  equal  propriety  to  the  filbert,  as  regards  form. 
The  bush,  branched  from  the  ground,  and  the  low  stand- 
ards^ with  two-foot  stems,  are  the  ordinary  forms  ;  but  in 
some  of  the  French  gardens  it  is  conducted  with  great 
success  as  a  pyramid. 

These  are  the  principal  trees  of  which  it  is  necessary 
to  speak  in  regard  to  form.  Other  species  will  be  referred 
to  under  the  head  of  Pruning.  Having  now  pointed  out 
the  most  eligible  forms  for  garden  trees,  and  their  respec- 


212  PERMANENT    PLANTATIONS. 

tive  advantages,  planters  will  he  able  to  make  a  choice 
adapted  to  their  tastes  and  circumstances.  Those  who  do 
not  employ  a  professional  gardener,  and  who  have  but  a 
small  portion  of  spare  time  to  devote  to  their  garden, 
should  by  all  means  adopt  such  forms  for  their  trees  as 
require  the  least  skill  and  labor,  provided  always  that  it 
be  appropriate  to  the  size  of  the  garden,  and  consistent 
with  good  management. 
•  The  next  point  to  be  considered  is, 

The  Age  of  the  Trees. — This  will  depend  very  much  on 
circumstances.  For  pyramidal  trees  it  is  yet  difficult,  al- 
most impossible,  to  obtain  in  the  nurseries  specimens  of 
more  than  one  year's  growth  that  are  suitable.  The 
yearlings  are  never  sufficiently  cut  back,  nor  the  branches 
of  the  second  and  third  years  so  managed  as  to  have  the 
requisite  proportion  of  length  and  vigor  to  fit  them  for 
being  moulded,  with  any  ordinary  treatment,  into  a  per- 
fectly pyramidal  form.  If  suitable  trees  cannot  be  found 
of  two  or  three  years  from  the  bud  or  graft,  vigorous 
yearlings,  worked  at  the  ground,  should  be  chosen,  as 
they  are  in  a  condition  to  take  easily  any  required  form  ; 
and  though  fruit  may  not  be  soon  obtained  from  them, 
yet  they  will,  in  the  end,  be  much  more  satisfactory ;  for, 
unless  a  right  beginning  be  made  in  the  training  of  a  tree 
in  any  form  more  or  less  artificial,  no  art  can  afterwards 
completely  correct  the  errors.  If  we  take  a  two  or  three 
year  old  tree,  managed  in  the  nursery,  as  usual,  with  a 
naked  trunk,  two  to  two  and  a  half  feet  from  the  ground, 
and  a  branching  head,  or,  what  is  nearly  as  bad,  a  few 
weak  side  branches  below,  overrun  with  strong  ones 
above,  the  most  severe  process  will  be  necessary,  in  order 
to  produce  lateral  branches  in  the  proper  place ;  and  thus 
as  much  time  will  be  lost  as  would  bring  forward  a  yearling, 
and  the  tree  will  not  be  so  perfectly  formed,  nor  in  any 
respect  so  satisfactory.  The  general  impatience  that  ex- 
ists in  regard  to  the  growth  and  bearing  of  trees  is  the 


THE   FECTT   GARDEX.  213 

great  cause  of  this  detect  ire  character  when  taken  from 
the  nursery.  The  nurserynmn  is  averse  to  cutting  back  his 
trees,  as  they  lose  a  year  in  bight :  and  planters  or  pur- 
chasers are  not  generally  discriminating  enough  to  be  will- 
ing to  pay  him  a  proportionate  price.  He  finds  tall  trees 
more  attractive.  When  planters  do  get  these  trees,  they 
cannot  be  persuaded  to  cut  them  down ;  they  wish  to  ob- 
tain fruit  as  soon  as  possible,  and  therefore  the  tree  is  al- 
lowed to  proceed  in  the  defective  form  it  assumed  at  the 
nursery. 

For  2>KVtrr!f  and  JPmarf  Sttrndard*.  it  is  less  difficult  to 
obtain  the  right  sort  of  trees,  tor  this  is  the  form  that  nur- 
sery trees  that  have  not  been  cut  back,  ordinarily  assume. 
Those,  therefore,  who  prefer  such  trees  can  always  be  sup- 
plied with  them  well  advanced,  even  in  a  bearing  state,  if 
so  desired.  As  in  t":e  pyrainid,  however,  persons  who 
intend  to  make  models  of  their  trees,  will  do  well  to  pro- 
cure yearlings  worked  at  the  surface  of  the  ground,  for  on 
them,  heads  or  lateral  branches  can  be  formed  without  any 
difficulty  at  any  desired  point  between  the  collar  and  ter- 
minal bud.  Another  consideration  is  worthy  of  note  on 
this  point.  There  is  a  much  greater  risk  in  removing 
three  or  four  year  old  trees  than  yearlings,  and  they  are 
more  difficult  and  expensive  to  pack  and  transport  The 
yearling  is  easily  remove  1  and  easily  transported,  and  its 
growrh  is  comparatively  unaffected  by  the  change.  The 
gardeners  most  famous  tor  their  handsome,  well-nianased 
fruit  trees,  invariably  select  yearlir.g  trees,  that  is,,  trees 
that  have  made  one  year's  growth  from  ihe  bud  or  graft. 
But  it  is  not  always  practicable  to  procure  trees  of  this 
age,  as  lew  of  them  are  called  for,  and  nursery-men  dislike 
to  break  upon  their  young  stock  before  it  has  attained 
the  usual  marketable  age. 

«$e/«y/A>w  of  TT?riVf*Vs. — The  selection  of  varieties  of 
fruits  for  a  fruit  garden  should  be  made  in  view  of  all  the 
circumstances  that  can  affect  their  usefulness.  They 


214  PERMANENT   PLANTATIONS 

should  be  adapted  to  the  soil,  and  more  particularly  to 
the  climate.  It  is  well  known  that  in  every  section  of  the 
country,  certain  varieties  seem  to  succeed  remarkably 
well,  whilst  others,  of  the  greatest  excellence  elsewhere, 
entirely  fail.  Our  country  is  so  extensive,  and  embraces 
such  a  variety  of  climate,  that  it  is  impossible  that  the 
same  varieties  should  succeed  equally  well  in  all  parts ; 
and  planters  should  consider  this  well.  Those  who  have 
had  no  experience  in  cultivation,  nor  a  proper  opportunity 
for  acquiring  knowledge  on  this  point,  should  consult 
others.  Any  intelligent  nurseryman  who  has  a  corre- 
spondence with  all  parts  of  the  country,  and  is  thoroughly 
alive  to  all  the  branches  of  his  profession,  and  the  re- 
sults of  experience,  can  aid  planters  greatly  in  making 
appropriate  selections.  It  is  true  that  the  amount  of 
knowledge  collected  on  this  head  is  yet  comparatively 
small,  and  quite  insufficient  for  a  general  guide,  but  it  is 
every  day  accumulating,  and  what  there  may  be  is  well 
worthy  of  attention.  The  experience  of  fruit  growers,  as 
elicited  at  recent  pomological  conventions,  has  brought 
to  light  a  multitude  of  highly  important  facts,  bearing  on 
this  very  point.  These  will  be  more  particularly  noted 
when  we  come  to  the  description  of  fruits. 

Varieties  should  be  adapted  in  their  growth  to  the  form 
they  are  to  be  grown  in,  and  to  the  extent  of  the  garden. 
— For  pyramidal  trees,  varieties  should  be  chosen  whose 
habits  of  growth  are  regular,  or  slightly  spreading,  the 
branches  assuming  more  of  the  horizontal  than  the 
upright,  and  those  disposed  to  branch  low  down  should  be 
preferred  to  those  of  an  opposite  habit.  Where  the  gar- 
den is  small,  moderate  or  slow  growers  should  be  pre 
ferred  to  rapid  and  vigorous  growers.  They  should  also 
be  well  adapted  to  the  stock  on  which  they  are  worked. 
This  is  a  very  important  point,  but  one  on  which  only  a 
few  persons  in  this  country  have  yet  acquired  any  con- 
siderable amount  of  actual  experience.  Still,  many  im- 


THE    FRUIT   GARDEN.  215 

portant  facts  have  been  gathered,  and  it,  becomes  every 
planter  to  avail  himself  of  them.  If  he  plants  pears  on 
quince  stocks,  for  instance,  it  is  important  to  know  that 
certain  varieties  are  much  better  on  that  stock  than  they 
are  on  the  pear,  and  that  others  fail  and  are  worthless  on  it. 
The  varieties  should  be  adapted  to  the  wants  and  wishes 
of  the  planter. — Those  who  plant  fruit  gardens  have  not 
all  the  same  objects  in  view.  One  man  plants  his  garden 
simply  to  supply  his  family  with  good  fruits.  This  is 
his  main  purpose.  He  should,  therefore,  select  the  very 
best  varieties,  considering  not  the  quality  alone,  but  their 
productiveness  and  other  useful  properties.  Such  a  per- 
son has  no  desire  for  a  large  collection,  but  looks  merely 
for  an  assortment  that  will  yield  a  succession  of  ripe  fruits 
during  the  season.  Another,  who  regards  the  mere  value 
of  the  fruit  less  than  amusement,  recreation,  and  experi- 
ment, will  make  his .  collection  as  varied  as  possible. 
Where  any  particular  class  of  fruits  can  be  had  very 
cheap  in  market,  it  should  be  planted  sparingly  in  the 
garden,  so  that  such  as  may  be  scarce  or  dear  can  be 
grown  in  larger  quantities.  It  is  only  by  taking  all  these 
into  account  that  planters  can  hope  to  make  their  fruit 
garden  answer  their  particular  views  and  purposes. 

The  planting  of  a  fruit  garden  should  be  considered  as 
of  equal  importance  with  the  building  of  a  dwelling,  so 
far  as  the  doing  of  it  well  is  concerned.  The  dwelling  is 
constructed  with  a  view  to  the  convenience  of  the  family, 
and  is,  therefore,  in  all  its  parts,  supposed  to  be  adapted 
to  their  wants  and  mode  of  living.  The  fruit  garden  is 
intended,  also,  to  promote  the  comfort  and  convenience 
of  the  family,  and  should  be,  like  the  dwelling,  in  all 
respects  as  nearly  as  possible  adapted  to  their  wants  and 
circumstances.  Having  now  treated  of  the  soil,  inclos- 
ures,  trellises,  walks,  arrangement,  selection  of  trees  and 
varieties,  we  proceed  to  the  taking  up  of  the  trees  and 
planting. 


216  PERMANENT   PLANTATIONS. 

Taking  up  the  Trees. — This  has  already  been  described 
under  the  head  of  Nursery  Operations,  to  which  the  reader 
is  referred. 

Planting  has  been  described  under  the  head,  of  Planting 
the  Orchard  /  and  the  operation  being  the  same  in  both 
cases,  it  need  not  be  repeated. 

The  arrangement  of  the  trees,  however,  is  different,  and 
this  point  requires  a  special  notice. 

In  regard  to  position. — Each  class  of  trees,  such  as 
pears,  apples,  cherries,  etc.,  should  be  planted  together  in 
the  same  rows  or  division,  and  if  any  difference  exist  in 
the  soil,  each  should  be  planted  in  that  best  adapted  to  it. 
Thus,  plums  should  have  that  most  inclined  to  clay ;  pears 
and  apples,  the  deepest  and  richest;  cherries,  peaches, 
apricots,  etc.,  the  driest  and  lightest. 

Where  the  garden  is  large,  the  pyramids  should  be  in 
one  compartment,  the  dwarf  standards  in  another,  and  the 
dwarf  bushes  in  another;  but  where  it  is  necessary  to 
economize  and  fill  the  ground  to  the  best  advantage,  the 
dwarf  bushes  may  alternate  advantageously  with  the 
pyramids  or  dwarf  standards,  and  this  especially  along 
the  walk  borders.  Varieties,  too,  of  the  same  or  similar 
habits  of  growth,  should,  if  possible,  be  together.  The 
espalier  trees  should  be  placed  so  that  the  earliest  blos- 
soming kinds,  such  as  the  apricots,  will  be  most  secure 
from  the  influence  of  spring  frosts  where  these  prevail ; 
the  trellis  facing  the  north  will  be  the  best  for  this  pur- 
pose ;  but  where  it  is  intended  to  protect  them,  the  aspect 
is  of  little  account.  In  the  north  aspect,  fruits  are  very 
much  retarded  in  their  ripening;  and  this  circumstance 
may  be  turned  to  a  good  account  to  prolong  the  season 
of  some  late  cherries,  currants,  etc.  We  have  seen  fine 
Morellos  in  perfection  on  a  north  wall  here,  in  the  month 
of  September. 

The  distance  at  which  trees  should  be  planted  in  the 
garden. — This  will  not  be  the  same  in  all  cases  ;  for  in  a 


THE   FRUIT    GAEDEN.  217 

large  garden  it  is  not  necessary  to  plant  so  close  as  in  a 
very  small  one,  and  in  a  very  rich  and  deep  soil  a 
greater  distance  will  be  required  than  in  a  dry  and  light 
soil.  There  is  also  a  great  difference  in  the  growth  of 
varieties.  Some  might  be  planted  at  six  feet  apart,  and 
have  as  much  space  in  proportion  as  others  would  at  eight. 
This  shows  that  no  rule,  as  regards  distance,  can  be 
observed  in  all  cases,  and  this  particularly  in  small  gar- 
dens, where  advantage  should  be  taken  of  every  circum- 
stance. In  large  gardens,  a  uniform  distance  may  be 
adopted,  even  if  some  space  be  sacrificed.  The  following 
distances  may  serve  as  a  general  guide,  and  may  be  in- 
creased or  diminished  according  to  circumstances  : 

DISTANCE    IN   THE    OPEN   GEOUND. 

Apples. — Pyramids,  on  free  stock,  ten  feet  apart ;  do., 
Doucin,  eight  feet  apart;  do.,  dwarf  standards  on  Doucin, 
ten  feet  apart ;  do.,  dwarf  bushes  on  Paradise,  five  or  six 
feet  apart. 

Pears. — Pyramids  on  free  stocks,  ten  to  twelve  feet 
apart;  do.,  on  quince,  ten  feet  apart;  do.,  dwarf  stand- 
ards on  quince,  eight  to  ten  feet  apart. 

Plums. — Dwarf  standards,  eight  to  ten  feet  apart ;  do., 
pyramids,  eight  to  ten  feet  apart. 

Cherries. — Pyramids,  Hearts,  and  Bigarreaus,  eight 
to  ten  feet  apart ;  do.,  Dukes  and  Morellos,  six  to  eight 
feet  apart ;  do.,  dwarf  bushes  of  Morellos,  five  to  six  feet 
apart. 

Apricots. — Dwarf  standard  on  plum,  eight  to  ten  feet 
apart;  do.,  pyramids,  six  to  eight  feet  apart. 

Peaches. — Low  standards  on  peach,  ten  to  twelve  feet 
apart ;  do.,  on  plum,  eight  to  ten  feet. 

Nectarines. — Same  as  peaches. 

Quinces. — Pyramids  or  bushes,  six  to  eight  feet  apart. 
10 


218  PERMANENT   PLANTATIONS. 

Filberts,  six  to  eight  feet  apart. 

Gooseberries  and  Currants,  four  or  five  feet  apart. 

Raspberries,  two  to  three  feet  apart. 

Mr.  Rivers  gives  the  following  distances  in  his  "  Minia- 
ture Fruit  Garden  " : 

Pyramidal  Pear-Trees,  on  quince  stocks,  root-pruned 
for  small  gardens,  four  feet  apart.  The  same,  in  larger 
gardens,  not  root-pruned,  six  feet  apart. 

Pyramidal  Pear-Trees,  on  the  pear  stock,  root-pruned, 
six  feet  apart.  The  same,  roots  not  pruned,  eight  to  ten 
feet — the  latter  if  the  soil  be  very  rich. 

Horizontal  Espalier  Pear-Trees,  on  the  quince  stock, 
for  rails  or  walls,  fifteen  feet  apart. 

Upright  Espaliers,  on  the  quince  stock,  for  rails  or  walls, 
four  to  six  feet  apart. 

Horizontal  Espaliers,  on  the  pear  stock,  for  rails  or 
walls,  twenty  to  twenty-four  feet  apart. 

Pyramidal  Plum-Trees,  six  feet  apart. 

Espalier  Plum-Trees,  twenty  feet  apart. 

Pyramidal  Apple-Trees,  on  the  Paradise  stock,  root- 
pruned  for  small  gardens,  four  feet  apart.  The  same,  roots 
not  pruned,  six  feet  apart. 

Espalier  Apple-Trees,  on  the  Paradise  stock,  fifteen  feet 
apart.  The  same,  on  the  crab  stock,  twenty  to  twenty- 
four  feet  apart. 

Peaches  and  Nectarines  for  walls,  twenty  feet  apart. 

Apricots  for  walls,  twenty-four  feet  apart. 

Cherries,  as  bushes  on  the  Mahaleb  stock,  roots  pruned 
for  small  gardens,  four  feet  apart.  The  same,  roots  not 
pruned,  six  feet  apart. 

Espalier  Cherry-Trees,  on  the  Mahaleb,  for  rails  or 
walls,  twelve  to  fifteen  feet  apart. 


THE   FRUIT    GARDEN.  219 

Oblique  Cordon  Trees,  of  all  varieties,  two  to  three 
feet  apart. 

Horizontal  Cordons,  of  all  varieties,  ten  to  twelve  feet 
apart. 

DISTANCES    FOR    ESPALIER    TREES  ON   WALLS  OR   TRELLISES. 

The  distances  between  espalier  trees  must  be  regulated 
not  only  by  the  growth  of  the  species  and  variety,  but  by 
the  hight  of  the  Avails  or  trellis.  If  these  be  low,  a 
greater  length,  of  course,  will  be  necessary  than  if  high ; 
for  every  tree  must  have  a  certain  extent  of  surface  to  be 
spread  upon.  Hence,  if  a  trellis  be  only  eight  feet  high, 
nearly  double  the  length,  and,  consequently,  double  the 
distance  between  the  trees,  will  be  required  that  would  be 
on  a  trellis  fifteen  or  sixteen  feet  high.  As  a  general 
thing,  %)eaches,  apricots,  or  nectarines,  on  walls  or  trellises 
eight  or  ten  feet  high,  should  be  fifteen  to  twenty  feet 
apart,  if  on  free  stocks,  and  twelve  to  fifteen  if  dwarfed 
on  the  plum.  Cherries,  ten  to  twelve  feet.  Our  Native 
Grapes,  Isabella,  Catawba,  etc.,  at  twelve  to  fifteen  feet 
apart,  on  an  eight-foot-high  trellis.  Foreign  varieties  will 
not  require  half  this  ;  indeed,  the  better  way  is  to  keep 
these  trained  to  simple  stakes,  and  planted  in  the  border, 
where  their  out-door  culture  is  attempted.  In  this  way 
they  are  easily  laid  down  and  protected. 


220 


PRUNING. 


CHAPTER  II. 

PRUNING  AND  TRAINING  APPLIED  TO  THE  DIF- 
FERENT SPECIES  OF  FRUIT-TREES  UNDER 
VARIOUS  FORMS. 

SECTION  1. — PRUNING  THE  APPLE  AND  THE  PEAK. 

These  two  trees  belong  to  the  same  genus,  Pyrus ; 
their  habits  of  growth  and  bearing  are  similar,  and  they 
may  therefore  be  treated,  as  regards  their  pruning,  under 
the  same  head. 

If  we  take,  for  example,  a  shoot  of  last  season  (fig.  7), 
we  find  it,  in  the  spring,  before  vegetation  commences, 
furnished  on  all  its  length  with  wood-buds ;  when  growth 
commences,  the  terminal  bud,  and  probably  two  or  three 
of  the  others  nearest  to  it,  produce  shoots ;  the  others  to- 
wards the  middle  produce  small  shoots  that  are,  in  subse- 
quent years,  transformed  into  fruit  branches  (like  fig.  10). 
Some  do  not  push  at  all,  but  are  converted  into  fruit- 
buds  (as  in  figs.  8  and  9),  whilst  those  at  the  base  gener- 
ally remain  dormant,  until  excited  into  growth  by  close 
pruning.  All  the  buds  on  these  trees  have  small,  incon- 
spicuous buds  at  their  base,  which  are  capable  of  produc- 
ing shoots  when  the  principal  bud  is  destroyed  or  injured, 
and  these  buds  render  the  fruit-spurs  so  enduring.  In 
young  trees,  the  fruit-buds  are  many  years  in  process  of 
formation,  and  in  bearing  trees,  three  to  four  years,  ac- 
cording to  circumstances.  When  the  trees  are  not  sub- 
jected to  pruning,  the  result  of  the  mode  of  growth 
described  is,  that  the  terminal  buds  grow  and  form  one 
section  upon  another,  leaving  the  lower  parts  mainly  des- 


THE    APPLE    AND    THE    PEAR.  221 

titute  of  bearing  wood,  unless  it  be  an  occasional  spur, 
the  sap  always  tending  to  the  points. 

Standards. — The  management  of  this  form  of  trees 
has  been  fully  treated  of  in  all  our  works  on  fruit  culture, 
and  in  all  the  agricultural  and  horticultural  journals,  so 
that  now  it  is  pretty  well  understood,  and  especially  by 
those  who  give  considerable  attention  to  the  subject  of 
fruit-trees;  it  will  not  be  necessary,  therefore,  to  enter 
upon  much  detail  in  regard  to  it. 

A  standard  apple  or  pear  tree,  for  the  orchard,  when 
taken  from  the  nursery  to  be  finally  planted  out,  we  will 
suppose  to  have  a  straight,  stout  trunk,  four  to  six  feet 
in  hight,  as  the  case  may  be,  and  a  head  composed  of  a 
certain  number  of  shoots  or  branches,  but  generally  shoots 
of  one  year's  growth.  At  the  time  of  planting,  three  or 
four  of  these  shoots  should  be  selected  to  form  the  main 
branches,  or  frame- work,  on  which  to  build  the  whole 
head,  and  the  remainder  cut  clean  out ;  those  reserved 
should  be  cut  -back  full  one-half,  and  from  the  shoots  pro- 
duced on  these,  at  and  below  the  cut,  two  of  the  strongest 
are  selected,  each  on  opposite  sides,  and  the  others  are 
rubbed  off  while  they  are  soft.  In  selecting  these  shoots, 
care  must  be  taken  to  have  them  equally  distant  from  one 
another,  and  pointing  in  such  directions  as  not  to  cross  or 
interfere* 

During  the  first  season,  these  young  shoots  must  be 
watched  and  kept  in  a  regular  state  of  vigor.  If  any 
threaten  to  become  too  vigorous,  they  must  be  pinched 
and  checked  at  once,  so  that  perfect  uniformity  be  pre- 
served. This  is  the  time  to  secure  a  well-formed  and 
nicely-balanced  head.  A  very  slight  circumstance  some- 
times throws  the  growth  into  one  side  or  one  branch  of  a 
young  tree,  and  produces  a  deformity  from  which  it  never 
recovers.  The  trunk  must  be  kept  clear  of  all  shoots,  by 
rubbing  off  such  as  appear  at  the  earliest  possible  moment, 
when  it  can  be  done  without  the  use  of  a  knife.  Suppos- 


222 


PRUNING. 


ing  we  commenced  the  head  with  three  branches  at  time 
of  planting,  there  will  be,  at  the  end  of  the  first  season, 
six. 

The  attention  required  after  this  will  be  to  maintain  an 
uniform  growth  among  these  six  branches,  and  their  mem- 
bers and  divisions,  and  to  prevent  the  growth  of  shoots 
in  the  center.  The  leading  defect  in  all  our  orchard  trees 
is  too  much  wood,  the  heads  are  kept  so  dense  with 
small  shoots  that  the  sun  and  air  are,  in  a  great  measure, 
excluded,  and  the  fruit  on  the  outside  of  the  tree  only 
is  marketable  or  fit  for  use.  The  head  should  be  kept 
open,  rather  in  the  form  of  a  vase,  so  that  the  wood, 
leaves,  blossoms  and  fruit  may  all,  on  every  part,  enjoy 
the  full  benefit  of  the  sun  and  air,  without  which  they 
cannot  perform  their  functions,  or  attain  maturity  and 
perfection. 

Too  many  people  imagine  that  trees  can  take  care  of 
themselves,  as  trees  in  the  forest, 
on  the  ground  that  nature  pre- 
serves a  balance  in  all  her  works ; 
but  it  should  be  borne  in  mind 
that  a  fruit  tree  is  not  exactly  a 
natural  production.  It  is  far  re- 
moved from  the  natural  state  by 
culture,  and  the  farther  it  is  re- 
moved, that  is,  the  more  its  nature 
is  refined  and  improved,  the  more 
care  it  requires.  Fig.  108  repre- 
sents a  young  standard  pear  tree, 
stem  four  feet  high,  and  the  head 
twice  cut  back,  as  at  the  letters  a 
and  b. 

Pinching. — If  this  be  properly 
attended  to,  very  little  knife  prun- 
ing will  be  necessary,  except  to  shorten  the  leading 
shoots,  because  as  soon  as  a  superfluous  or  misplaced 


Fig.         108.— A        YOUNG 
STANDARD   PEAR-TREE. 

Trunk  4  feet  high ;  head  for- 
ward on  three  main  branch- 
es, twice  primed  at  A  and  B. 


THE  APPLE  AND  THE  PEAK.  223 

shoot  appears,  it  is  rubbed  off",  and  when  one  becomes 
too  vigorous,  it  is  pinched  and  checked.  The  great  ad- 
vantage of  pinching  is,  that 

1st.  It  economizes  the  sap  of  the  tree.  That  which 
would  be  expended  on  superfluous  shoots  is  turned  to  the 
benefit  of  the  parts  reserved,  and  thus  the  growth  is 
greatly  promoted. 

2d.  All  wounds  necessarily  inflicted,  where  knife-prun- 
ing is  depended  on,  are  completely  avoided.  These  facts 
should  be  remembered.  Standard  apples  and  pears  are 
not  generally  pruned  with  a  view  to  hastening  their 
bearing,  but  are  allowed  to  arrive  at  that  state  in  their 
natural  way.  In  the  case  of  tardy-bearing  sorts,  how- 
ever, it  may  be  desirable  to  apply  artificial  means,  and 
these  will  be  pointed  out  in  treating  of  dwarfs  and  pyra- 
mids hereafter. 

Dwarf  Standards. — These  are  similar  to  standards, 
except  that  the  trunks  are  low,  not  over  two  or  three  feet 
in  hight,  and  the  head  is  retained  in  a  smaller  space. 
Their  management  is  always  much  easier  when  the  stocks 
are  such  as  to  dwarf  or  restrain  the  growth.  Thus, 
apples  on  the  Paradise  or  Doucin^  and  pears  on  the 
quince.  The  main  branches,  or  frame-work  of  the  head, 
are  produced  by  cutting  back  the  three  or  four  branches 
that  form  the  head  of  the  tree  as  it  comes  from  the 
nursery,  in  the  same  manner  as  recommended  for  stand- 
ards. 

The  first  season,  all  superfluous  productions  are  rubbed 
off,  and  a  balance  maintained  among  the  shoots  by 
pinching. 

The  second  year,  in  the  winter  or  spring,  the  shoots  of 
last  season  are  shortened,  say  one-half,  as  a  general  thing. 
This  induces  the  development  of  the  buds  on  their  lower 
parts.  The  cut  is  made  at  a  good,  plump  bud,  capable 
of  producing  a  vigorous  shoot ;  and  this  is  selected  to 
prolong  the  branch.  If  one  or  two  secondary  branches 


224  PRUNING 

are  needed  to  fill  up  a  space,  those  next  the  leader,  if 
properly  situated  to  fill  the  space,  are  chosen,  and  all  be- 
low them  are  pinched  when  about  two  or  three  inches 
long,  in  order  to  check  the  production  of  wood  where  it 
is  not  wanted,  and  to  convert  them  into  fruit  branches  or 
spurs.  The  growth  of  all  the  main  and  secondary 
branches  is  regulated  and  balanced  by  pinching  ;  and  if 
the  pinched  shoots,  intended  for  fruit  spurs,  start  again 
into  growth,  they  must  be  again  pinched. 

The  third  season,  the  shoots  of  the  previous  year  are  cut 
back  as  before,  say  to  four,  five,  or  six  eyes,  according  to 
their  strength.  One  shoot  is  chosen  to  continue  the  pro- 
longment  of  the  branch,  and  the  others  are  pinched  in 
season  to  convert  them  into  fruit  spurs.  Thus  the  tree  is 
conducted  from  year  to  year,  until  it  has  attained  the  full 
size  required.  In  this  wlay  the  trees  commence  bearing 
quite  young,  and  every  branch  is  furnished,  in  all  its 
length,  with  fruit  spurs. 

Pyramids. — Under  the  head  of  "the  selection  of  trees," 
it  has  been  recommended  to  obtain  thrifty  yearling  trees 
in  preference  to  older  ones,  not  properly  managed.  We 
will,  therefore,  begin  with  the  yearling  tree,  and  although 
the  management  of  the  first  year  after  cutting  back  has 
been  given  in  the  nursery,  it  may  be  well  to  repeat  it 
here,  to  save  the  reader  the  trouble  of  referring  back. 

Objects  of  cutting  back. — The  object  in  doing  this  is  to 
produce  branches  near  the  stock,  that  will  form  the  base 
of  the  future  pyramid.  If  left  entire,  the  tendency  of  the 
sap  to  the  extremities  would  produce  shoots  there  only, 
leaving  a  naked  space  entirely  inconsistent  with  the  form 
in  view.  We  therefore  reduce  the  stem  to  such  an  ex- 
tent, that  but  a  small  number  of  buds  are  left  on  it,  and 
the  sap,  acting  on  these  with  great  force,  causes  their 
development. 

Sow  far  to  cut  back. — It  is  obvious  that  this  must  de- 
pend on  the  character  of  the  subject.  In  yearling  plants, 


THE  APPLE  AND  THE  PEAR.  225 

both  of  the  pear  and  apple,  there  is  presented  a  great 
difference  in  different  varieties.  Some  invariably  pro- 
duce lateral  branches  the  first  season.  The  buds  are  so 
perfectly  developed,  that  when  the  second  growth  takes 
place  in  mid-summer,  they  break,  and  form  branches,  in 
some  cases  as  much  as  a  foot  long,  and  in  others  only  a 
few  inches.  Then,  among  the  varieties  which  do  not  thus 
produce  side  branches  in  the  second  growth,  there  is  a 
great  difference  in  the  plumpness  and  prominence  of  the 
buds.  In  some  they  are  larger,  and  stand  out  boldly 
from  the  wood  on  the  whole  length  of  the  stem,  appa- 
rently ready  to  push  under  the  least  excitement.  In 
others  they  are  small,  lie  flat  to  the  wood,  and  have 
every  appearance  of  being  difficult  to  excite  into  growth, 
and  especially  those  towards  the  base.  It  should  always 
be  borne  in  mind  that  it  is  better  to  cut  too  low  than  not 
low  enough.  The  difficulty  of  cutting  too  low  is,  that  the 
shoots  produced  are  nearly  all  of  equal  length,  and  a 
certain  number  of  them  require  to  be  checked  to  give 
each  one  its  proper  dimensions.  The  difficulty  of  not 
cutting  low  enough  is,  that  where  we  should  have 
branches  at  the  base,  we  have  none,  or,  if  any,  they  are 
smaller,  instead  of  larger,  than  those  above  them.  The 
remedy  in  this  case  is  more  difficult  than  the  other.  The 
vigorous  shoots  at  the  summit  must  be  checked,  and  even 
the  leading  shoot,  in  order  to  throw  back  the  sap  into  the 
lower  parts,  to  act  upon  the  buds  there.  The  error 
which  produces  such  a  difficulty  is  very  common,  as  we 
know  by  experience,  among  persons  not  familiar  with 
the  growth  of  young  trees  or  the  development  of  the 
buds  on  their  stems.  It  must  be  laid  down  as  a  general 
rule  that  the  more  feeble  the  plant,  and  the  smaller  and 
the  more  imperfectly  developed  the  buds,  the  lower  it  is 
necessary  to  cut. 

The  condition  of  the  roots,  too,  must  be   taken  into 
account;  for  where  the  roots  are  weak, broken, or  injured, 


226  PRUNING. 

and  consequently  unfit  to  yield  to  the  stem  any  considera- 
ble amount  of  nutriment,  the  buds  will  break  with  less 
force,  and  a  more  severe  retrenchment  will  be  necessary. 
All  these  circumstances  must  be  consid- 
ered. For  example,  we  will  take  a  younr; 
pear-tree,  of  one  year's  growth  from  the 
bud,  without  branches  (fig.  109),  which 
we  will  suppose  to  bo  four  feet,  which  is 
the  ordinary  average  hight  of  yearlings. 
If  the  buds  are  full  and  prominent  on  it, 
we  cut  to  a  good  bud,  about  twenty 
inches  from  the  stock ;  but  if  the  buds 
are  less  prominent,  cut  to  fifteen  or 
eighteen  inches,  and  if  very  feeble,  with 
small  buds,  cut  to  within  twelve  inches, 
or  five  or  six  buds  of  the  stock.  If  the 
roots  have  been  injured  much,  and  the 
stem  somewhat  dried  or  shrivelled,  it 
should  be  cut  to  within  three  or  four 
buds  of  the  base.  These  different  cases 
are  mentioned  because  it  frequently  hap- 
pens that  persons  who  live  at  a  great 
distance  from  nurseries  often  find  their 
trees,  on  their  arrival,  in  the  condition  de- 
scribed, and  it  is  necessary  that  a  course 
of  treatment  for  them  should  be  indicated. 
The  bud  cut  to  should,  if  possible,  be  one 
of  the  best  on  the  stem,  and  be  on  the 
Fig.  107.  side  of  the  tree  opposite  that  in  which  the 
A  yearling  pear-  bud  was  inserted,  so  as  to  continue  the 
tree  without  bran-  gtem  jn  a  straight  line. 

dies.      The     cross-         T     . 

line  indicates  the  At  is  a  great  advantage  to  have  a  tree 
first  pruning  or  we]j[  established  in  the  ground  before  cut- 
cutting  back.  .  ,  .  .  3 

ting  it  back,  to  produce  the  first  branches 

to  form  the  pyramid;  because,  in  that  condition,  it  is 
capable  of  producing  vigorous  shoots  the  first  season.  It 


THE  APPLE  AND  THE  PEAR. 


227 


is  on  this  account  that  a  young  tree,  cut  back  in  the  nur- 
sery, presents  a  much  more  perfect  form,  at  the  end  of  the 
second  year,  than  those  that  have  f 

been  transplanted.  Some  good  cul- 
tivators advise  to  defer  the  cut- 
ting back  for  the  formation  of  the 
permanent  branches  until  the  plant 
has  stood  one  year  after  transplant- 
ing ;  but  this  course  is  attended 
with  many  difficulties,  and,  on  the 
whole,  it  is  better  to  cut  back  when 
the  tree  is  planted,  even  if  we  ob- 
tain but  a  moderate  growth;  for 
the  older  the  buds  are  on  the  lower 
part  of  the  tree,  the  more  obstinate 
and  unmanageable  they  are.  If  we 
fail  to  accomplish  our  ends  in  the 
first  cutting,  we  can  repeat  it  the 
next  year. 

Pruning  the  Branched  Yearling. 
— Among  trees  of  this  kind,  some 
have  branches  a  foot  or  more  in 
length,  while  in  others  they  resem- 
ble short,  stiff  spurs,  two  to  four 
inches  long.  These  two  characters 
require  different  modes  of  treat- 
ment. Where  there  are  branches 
of  sufficient  force,  and  properly 
situated  to  form  the  first  series  of 
main  branches,  they  must  be  treat- 
ed in  the  same  manner  as  though 
the  tree  were  two  years  old.  The 
strongest  and  best  situated  are  selected  and  pruned  to  with- 
in four  to  six  inches  of  their  base,  according  to  their  vigor 
and  position;  the  lowest  should  not  be  more  than  six  inches 
from  the  stock.  The  small,  feeble,  superfluous  ones  are  en- 


g.  108. 
Yearling     pear-tree    with 
branches,  the  pruning  indi- 
cated by  the  cross-lines. 


228 


PKILNJLNG. 


tirely  removed  ;  the  leading  shoot,  which,  in  such  cases,  is 
short,  and  provided  with  plump  buds,  does  not  require  a 
heavy  shortening ;  in  most  cases, 
one  -  half  will  be  quite  sufficient. 
Figure  110  represents  a  tree  of  this 
kind  ;  the  cross-lines  indicate  the  cuts. 
Where  the  lateral  branches  are  short 
and  spur-like,  they  will  require  very 
careful  treatment ;  the  strongest  and 
best  placed  are  reserved.  If  the 
lower  ones  have  good  terminal  buds, 
they  are  left  entire ;  those  above  them 
are  shortened,  the  lower  to  three, 
the  next  above  to  two,  and  the  up- 
permost, next  the  leading  shoot,  to 
one  bud.  This  will  give  their  pro- 
ductions a  proper  relative  degree  of 
vigor.  The  leader  is  cut  back  fur- 
ther than  in  the  well-branched  sub- 
ject, because  it  is  presumed  the  buds 
are  less  excitable  —  as  a  general 
thing,  within  four  to  six  buds  of  the 
highest  lateral,  or  one-half  of  its 
length. 

There  is  another  class  of  trees  neces- 
sary to  be  noticed  here,  because  they 
are  very  common — two-year-old  nur- 
sery trees  that  have  not  been  properly 
treated.  Figure  111  represents  a  tree 
Fi£.  109.  of  t^jg  km<34  A  few  inches  only  of 

A  two-year-old  pear-tree,     .  ,  ~,  , 

not  cut  back  far  enough  the  top  were  taken  on  at  the  com- 
the  first  season;  the  second  mencement    of    the     second    year's 

pruning,  to  produce  bran-  ,  ,      ^        ,,     ,     .,  ,    ,*.    . 

ches  below,  is  indicated  by  growth,  and  after  that  it  was  left  to 
the  cross-line.  itself.     Branches,  therefore,  were  pro- 

duced only  at  the  top,  leaving  a  vacant    space  of  two 
feet — the  very  part  that  should  have  produced  the  first 


THE  APPLE  AND  THE  PEAR.  229 

set  of  main  branches.  The  best  disposition  to  make  of 
such  trees  would  be  to  conduct  them  in  the  form  of 
dwarf  standards,  which  they  really  are  at  present ;  but  it 
happens  that,  in  some  cases,  it  is  desired  to  convert  them 
into  pyramids,  and  therefore  it  is  essential  that  the  proper 
means  be  pointed  out.  Two-year-old  trees,  like  yearlings, 
differ  materially  in  the  character  of  the  buds  on  the  lower 
part  of  the  stem.-  On  some,  these  are  quite  prominent,  so 
much  so  as  to  appear  to  have  made  some  advance  towards 
development,  while  in  others  they  are  quite  flat  and  dor- 
mant. It  is  obvious  that  trees  in  the  first  condition  will 
not  require  that  severe  retrenchment  on  the  head,  to  pro- 
duce branches  below,  as  the  last.  In  this  case  it  will 
generally  be  sufficient,  and  especially  if  the  space  be- 
tween the  stock  and  first  branches  does  not  exceed  two 
feet,  to  cut  back  the  leader  to  three  buds,  and  the  lateral 
branches  below  it  to  one  bud  ;  but  when  the  buds  are 
small  and  backward,  or  when  the  branchless  space  is  over 
two  feet  in  length,  the  two-year-old  wood  must  be  cut 
back  to  within  eighteen  inches  to  two  feet  of  the  base. 
The  formation  of  lateral  branches  is  encouraged  by  cut- 
ting notches  in  the  stem,  above  a  bud,  at  the  point  where 
the  branch  is  desired.  We  find  that  in  the  case  of  im- 
ported trees,  or  those  carried  a  great  distance,  and  more 
or  less  injured,  nothing  short  of  this  severe  cutting  can 
insure  branches  low  enough  to  form  a  pyramidal  tree. 
It  seems  a  great  pity  to  cut  back  a  tree  in  this  manner, 
and  lose  a  year  or  two  of  its  growth  and  bearing,  but  it 
is  absolutely  necessary  when  the  pyramidal  form  is  want- 
ed. There  is  still  another  class  of  trees  that  we  sometimes 
see  sent  out  from  the  nurseries.  These  are  two  or  three 
years  old ;  have  been  cut  back,  and  are  pretty  well  fur- 
nished, in  all  their  length,  with  lateral  branches,  but,  from 
the  want  of  proper  care,  those  on  the  upper  parts  have 
acquired  greater  vigor  than  those  below,  presenting  the 
tree  in  a  situation  just  the  reverse,  in  this  respect,  of  what 


230  PRUNING. 

it  ought  to  be.  In  pruning  this  specimen  at  the  time  of 
planting,  the  lower  branches  must  either  be  shortened 
very  slightly,  in  order  to  get  a  strong  bud  for  a  leader, 
or  they  must  be  left  entire,  while  those  above  will  be  cut 
close ;  where  we  want  the  longest  and  strongest  branches, 
there  we  leave  the  most  wood. 

The  most  important  pruning  performed  upon  a  tree  is 
the  first  one,  for  it  is  this  which  makes  all  future  manage- 
ment easy  and  successful,  or  difficult  and  unsatisfactory. 
This  is  the  reason  why  it  has  appeared  necessary  to  treat 
of  it  so  minutely.  Having  encountered  all  the  difficulties 
that  others  are  likely  to  encounter,  and  having  described 
them  and  pointed  out  the  means  by  which  they  are  to  be 
overcome,  it  is  believed  that  the  matter  has  been  made  so 
plain,  that  any  man  of  ordinary  intelligence,  and  possess- 
ing the  slightest  knowledge  of  tree  culture,  can  take  his 
knife  and  prepare  his  trees  in  such  a  manner  as  to  give 
him  a  most  reasonable  hope  of  attaining  his  ends.  We 
now  proceed  to  the 

Summer  management  of  trees  thus  cut  back. — We  will 
first  consider  the  case  of  the  yearling  without  branches. 
If  it  has  been  cut  low  enough,  as  directed,  nearly  all  the 
buds  below  the  cut  will  push.  As  a  space  of  six  to  twelve 
inches  should  be  kept  clear  between  the  ground  and  the 
first  or  lowest  tier  of  branches,  such  shoots  as  may  appear 
on  that  part  will  be  rubbed  off  at  once.  Of  the  re- 
maining ones,  a  certain  number,  three  to  six,  according  to 
the  length  of  the  stem,  will  be  reserved.  These  must  be 
the  strongest,  and  properly  situated  on  the  stem,  within 
eight  to  ten  inches  of  space  between  each  branch,  and 
that  immediately  above  it,  and  regularly  placed  on  all 
sides  of  the  stem.  Some  recommend  leaving  on  all  the 
shoots  that  are  produced  the  first  season ;  but  in  certain 
cases  this  would  be  bad  practice,  for  if  the  buds  be  very 
close,  the  shoots  would  be  so  numerous  that  the  strength 
of  all  would  be  impaired,  and  much  pruning  would 


THE  APPLE  AND  THE  PEAR. 


231 


be  required  the  next  season.  The  better  way  is  to  select 
such  as  are  wanted,  and  rub  off  the  others ;  the  sap  which 
they  would  have  appropriated  will  be  turned  to  the  ac- 
count of  the  permanent  branch- 
es, and  increase  their  vigor.  The 
leading  shoot  must  be  directed 
in  a  straight  line ;  in  some  cases 
a  support  may  be  necessary.  If 
the  branches  immediately  below 
it  are  so  vigorous  as  to  inter- 
fere with  its  growth,  they  must 
be  checked  by  pinching.  In 
some  cases  it  may  be  necessary 
to  do  this  when  they  are  an 
inch  or  two  in  length.  It  some- 
times occurs  that  the  bud  cut 
to  is  injured  by  the  weather, 
close  cutting,  or  some  other 
cause,  and  pushes  so  feebly  that 
the  laterals  below  it,  having 
more  vigor,  take  the  lead.  This 
must  bo  prevented  in  time.  A 
proper  relative  degree  of  vigor 
must  be  maintained  among  all 
the  branches  by  checking,  when 
necessary,  the  most  vigorous. 
The  first  summer's  treatment 
of  the  branched  yearling  (fig. 
112)  will  consist  in  maintain- 
ing a  uniform  growth  among 
the  lateral  branches,  and  in  the 

case  of  the  leading  shoot,  as  al-    ingmade  oncyear,s  growthafter 
ready  described.     Some  lateral    the  first  pruning. 
shoots  will  be  produced  on  the  branches,  and  these  must 
all  be  pinched  at  an  inch  or  two,  as  it  is  yet  too  soon  to 
allow  of  the  formation  of  secondary  branches.     The  sum- 


Fig,  no. 

A  two-year-old    pear-tree,  hav- 


232 


PRUNING. 


mer  treatment  of  the  two-year-old  tree,  fig.  1 10,  will  be 
conducted  on  the  same  principles.  The  encouragement 
of  the  leading  shoot  will  require  special  attention  to  se- 
cure it  in  an  upright  posi- 
tion, as,  in  many  cases, 
where  two-year-old  wood  is 
cut  back,  the  leading  shoots 
assume  a  horizontal  or 
curved  direction. 

The  Second  Pruning. — 
We  have  now  a  tree  com- 
posed of  two  sections;  the 
first  is  the  two -year -old 
part,  furnished  with  lateral 
branches;  and  the  second, 
the  leading  shoot  produced 
last  season  (fig.  113).  In 
pruning  it,  our  object  will 
be  to  establish  a  new  sec- 
tion of  branches  on  the 
leader,  to  continue  the  pro- 
longment  of  the  lower 
branches,  and  to  induce  the 
formation  of  fruit  -  spurs 
towards  their  base.  To  ac- 
complish these  ends,  we 
shorten  the  leader  or  stem, 
on  the  same  principle,  in  re- 
lation to  its  character,  as 
already  directed  for  the 
in.  yearling  trees,  from  one- 

Pear-tree     three     years     old,  twice  half  to  tWO-thirds  its  length, 
pruned ;  the  third  pruning  is  indicated  and  Sometimes  more.    Every 

bud   between    the   one   we 

cut  to  and  the  base  of  the  shoot,  should  push ;  and  the 
bud   to   produce  the    leader   should   be  large,   perfectly 


THE    APPLE    AND    THE    PEAR.  233 

formed,  and  opposite  the  cut  of  the  previous  year.  The 
lateral  branches  on  the  first  section  are  shortened  ac- 
cording to  their  vigor,  always  remembering  that  the 
lowest  must  be  the  longest,  to  carry  out  the  pyramidal 
form.  They  should  also  be  cut  back  sufficiently  to 
insure  the  growth  of  all  the  buds  on  them.  This  point 
requires  considerable  care,  for  if  not  cut  back  enough, 
the  interior  of  the  trees  becomes  naked,  instead  of  being 
supplied  with  shoots  for  bearing  spurs;  and  if  cut 
back  too  far,  the  shoots  will  be  too  vigorous  and  diffi- 
cult to  control.  The  appearance  of  the  buds,  and  habits 
of  the  variety,  will  be  a  sufficient  guide,  if  properly 
studied.  The  lowest  branch  on  the  left-hand  side  of  fig. 
113,  having  failed  to  attain  its  proportionate  growth,  will 
be  left  entire,  or  nearly  so. 

Treatment  of  the  growing  shoots. — When  the  buds  have 
all  started,  and  made  a  growth  of  an  inch  or  two,  their 
force  and  forwardness  will  indicate  the  uses  to  be  made 
of  them.  Each  of  the  main  branches  of  the  first  section 
may  be  considered  as  a  stem ;  its  leader  will  require  the 
same  treatment  to  favor  its  extension.  At  this  time  a 
secondary  branch  may  be  required  to  fill  up  the  space, 
which  widens  as  the  branches  extend.  If  so,  a  shoot  is 
selected  for  this  purpose,  and  all  the  others  on  the  same 
branch  are  checked  at  two  inches,  and  converted  into  fruit 
branches.  All  the  laterals  are  treated  in  this  way.  The 
second  section,  now  in  process  of  formation,  must  be 
managed  as  directed  for  the  first  section.  During  the 
first  season,  the  requisite  number  of  shoots  is  preserved, 
and  the  superfluous  ones  removed  early.  The  leader  is 
maintained  erect ;  and  the  laterals  immediately  below  it, 
being  always  inclined  to  vigorous  growth,  must  be  checked 
to  keep  them  in  a  proper  condition,  relative  to  the  leader 
and  the  branches  below  them.  The  leading  shoot  must 
always  maintain  its  preeminence.  It  often  happens  that 
the  lateral  shoots  of  the  main  branches  that  have  been 


234 


PRUNING. 


pinched  will  start  and  grow  again.  In  such  cases  another 
pinching  must  be  performed  within  an  inch  of  the  previ- 
ous one.  As  a  gen- 
eral thing,  this  will 
be  sufficient ;  "but  if 
not,  a  third  must  be 
given  in  the  same 
way ;  for  if  they  be 
allowed  to  extend 
into  wood  branches, 
they  will  require 
knife-pruning,  and 
create  confusion 
among  all  parts  of 
the  tree.  A  very 
general  error  in  con- 
ducting trees  of 
this  kind,  and  in- 
deed all  others,  is  to 
allow  the  branches 
to  be  too  close  to 
each  other,  so  that 
when  they  come  to 
bear,  the  wood,  foli- 
age, and  fruit,  on  the 
interior,  are  so  ex- 
cluded from  the  air 
and  light  that  they 
all  suffer.  The  fruit 
is  imperfect,  and  the 
spurs  become  feeble, 
and  gradually  per- 
ish. The  tree  has 
now  two  branched 
sections,  each  from 
twelve  inches  to  two  feet,  as  the  case  may  be,  and  with 


Fig.  112. 

Pear-tree  four  years  old,  three  times  pruned ; 
cross-lines  indicate  the  fourth  pruning;  will  now 
be  in  a  bearing  state. 


THE  APPLE  AND  THE  PEAR.  235 

four  to  six  branches  on  each ;  the  leading  shoot  is  from 
one  to  three  feet  in  length. 

The  average  hight  of  three-year-old  trees,  on  the 
quince,  in  our  grounds,  transplanted  at  one  year  old,  and 
twice  pruned,  is  five  to  six  feet.  A  few  very  vigorous- 
growing  varieties,  that  throw  up  a  leader  every  season 
three  to  four  feet  in  length,  are  seven  to  eight  feet ;  but 
these  are  comparatively  few  in  number. 

Third  Pruning. — This  is  done  on  precisely  the  same 
principles  laid  down  for  the  second.  The  leader  of  the 
stems  is  cut  back  in  proportion  to  its  vigor;  the  lateral 
branches  are  also  shortened  in  the  same  manner.  It 
must  always  be  kept  in  mind  that  the  lowest  branches 
must  be  longest ;  and  when  it  happens  that  they  do  not 
take  their  due  proportion  of  vigor,  as  compared  with 
those  above  them,  and  if  pinching  has  not  been  duly  at- 
tended to  the  past  summer,  to  maintain  regularity,  the 
weaker  must  now  be  favored  with  a  long  pruning. 

It  has  been  remarked  that  the  habits  of  growth  and 
bearing  of  the  pear  and  apple  are  similar,  but  it  should 
be  noted  that,  in  treating  them  as  pyramids,  the  apple- 
tree  is  more  liable  to  lose  its  vigor  at  the  top,  and  there- 
fore it  is  necessary  to  keep  an  eye  to  this  point  in  their 
management.  From  what  has  been  said  with  reference 
to  an  equal  distribution  of  the  sap,  the  remedy  for  this 
difficulty  will  be  obvious,  viz.,  to  reduce  the  vigor  of  the 
lower  parts  by  pinching,  shortening,  and  heavy  crops, 
and  to  favor  the  upper  part  by  long  pruning  and  thin- 
ning, or  wholly  removing  the  fruits. 

Management  of  the  Fruit  Branches. — About  the  sixth 
to  the  eighth  year,  from  the  first  pruning  of  the  tree,  it 
will  have  attained  nearly  as  great  dimensions  as,  in  many 
cases,  will  be  desirable,  and  be  well  furnished  with  fruit 
branches. 

After  this  period,  the  object  of  the  pruning  will  be  to 
prevent  the  extension  of  the  tree,  and  maintain  the  fruit- 


236 


PRUNING. 


bearing  parts  in  a  healthy  and  productive  state.  Without 
proper  care  they  will  be  liable  to  suffer  from  bearing  too 
much,  or  from  the  growth  of  young  wood  on  the  ex- 
tremities of  young 
branches. 

To  diminish  the 
growth,  and  favor 
the  fruit  branches, 
the  young  shoots 
must  be  pruned 
shorter  than  before, 
in  order  to  turn  the 
sap  more  to  the  ben- 
efit of  the  fruits,  and 
when  the  fruit-spurs 
become  too  numer- 
ous, so  as  to  be  too 
near  one  another, 
and  produce  more 
fruit  than  the  tree 
can  sustain  with 
safety,  a  portion  of 
them  must  be  pruned 
off.  The  lower-parts 
always  experience 
this  difficulty  first, 
the  sap  circulating 
more  slowly  there 
than  in  the  summit. 
Fruit -spurs  of  the 
pear  and  apple,  if 

Fi"1.  113.— PYK AMID AL    TRAINING   COMPLETE.     r  l  | 

well  managed,  con- 
tinue in  a  vigorous  bearing  state  for  a  great  many  years. 
To  renew  and  prolong  their  vigor,  the  older  parts  must, 
from  time  to  time,  be  cut  away,  and  new  productions 
created  at  their  base  to  take  their  place. 


THE  APPLE  AND  THE  PEAR.  237 

Pruning  and  Management  of  the  Apple  as  a  Dwarf 
on  the  Paradise  stock. 

Nothing  is  more  simple  than  the  treatment  of  these  little 
bushes. 

They  should  have  short  stems,  six  to  eight  inches  from 
the  ground,  and  the  head  should  not  be  allowed  to  exceed 
three  to  three  and  a  halt'  feet  in  hight,  because  the  roots 
are  very  small,  and  do  not  take  such  a  firm  hold  of  the 
ground  as  to  admit  of  a  head  that  would  offer  much  ob- 
stacle to  the  wind.  The  branches  should  be  evenly  distrib- 
uted around  the  head,  open  in  the  center,  in  the  form  of 
a  vase,  and  be  furnished  in  all  their  parts  with  bearing 
spurs. 

These  are  the  points  to  aim  at  in  commencing  the  for- 
mation of  these  trees.  The  proceedings  are  as  follows  : 

First  Pruning. — We  will  suppose  that  the  subject  is  a 
yearling  bud  or  graft,  a  single  shoot  eighteen  to  twenty 
inches  in  hight.  In  this  case,  the  stem  is  cut  back  to  the 
point  where  it  is  intended  to  form  the  head,  six  to  ten 
inches,  as  the  case  may  be,  from  the  stock.  Below  this, 
most  of  the  buds  will  start  and  form  shoots,  from  which 
we  select  three  or  four  of  the  strongest  and  best  situated, 
equally  distant,  if  possible,  around  the  stem,  and  rub  or 
pinch  off  all  the  others.  The  growth  of  the  branches  thus 
selected  for  a  head,  is  encouraged  during  the  first  season, 
by  keeping  down  all  other  productions  that  may  appear. 

Second  Pruning. — The  tree  has  now  three  or  four 
branches  destined  to  be  the  basis  of  the  framework  of  the 
head.  These  branches  are  cut  back  full  one  half  their  length, 

O  7 

according  as  the  buds  in  the  variety  are  easily  excited  or 
not,  the  object  being  to  induce  all  the  buds  below  the  cut 
to  push.  After  growth  has  commenced,  and  an  inch  or 
two  of  new  wood  been  made,  the  shoot  from  the  bud  cut 
to,  will  be  chosen  as  a  leader  to  continue  the  extension  of 
the  branch ;  and  if  secondary  branches  are  wanted,  they 
will  be  chosen  from  those  best  situated,  to  fill  up  the  ex- 


238 


PRUNING. 


isting  vacancies.  All  the  other  shoots  are  pinched  when 
two  or  three  inches  long,  to  convert  them  into  fruit  spurs, 
and  to  prevent  their  interfering  with  the  growth  of  the 
wood  branches.  If  one  pinching  is  not  sufficient,  another 
must  be  given  in  the  same  way  as  recommended  for  pyram- 
idal trees.  Indeed,  the  whole  process,  as  far  as  it  goes, 
is  the  same ;  but  the  same  efforts  are  not  necessary  to 
maintain  an  equal  distribution  of  the  sap,  for  the  tree  is 
so  low,  and  the  form  so  natural,  that  no  branch  is  more 
favorably  situated  than  another;  and  hence  they  are 
easily  kept  in  a  uniform  state  of  vigor.  The  branches  of 
irregular-growing  sorts  will  require  to  be  secured  by 
stakes  in  their  proper  places  for  a  year  or  two  at  first, 
until  they  have  assumed  a  permanent  position. 

The  third  and  all  subsequent  primings  will  be    con- 
ducted on  the  same  principles  as 
the  first  and  second,  already  de- 
scribed, until  the  tree  has  attained 
its  full  size.     Fig.  114  represents 
a  dwarf  apple-tree,  four  years  old, 
three  times  pruned ;  the  two  last 
prunings  are  indicated  by  the  let 
ters  a  and  b. 

Management  of  the  Bearing 
Tree. — In  most  cases  the  apple  on 
the  Paradise  is  disposed  to  ex- 
cessive fruitfulness,  and  unless  the 
fruit  branches  be  occasionally  Fig  114. 

thinned  and  shortened,  in  order  Dwarf  appie-trce,  four  years 
to  reduce  the  number  of  bearing  o]d> stem  ten  inches  nishi  head 

lit,  ,  T      composed  of  four  main  branches 

buds,  and    tO    produce  new   WOOd,    and  several  secondary  branches: 

the  tree  becomes  enfeebled.  Bad  pruned  three  times,  as  at  «,  6, 
management  of  this  kind  has  pro-  ' 

mulgated  the  belief  that  the  apple  on  the  Paradise  is  ex- 
ceedingly short-lived ;  but  the  fact  that  plantations  exist 
in  the  most  perfect  vigor  at  the  end  of  twelve  to  fifteen 


THE  APPLE  AND  THE  PEAR.  239 

years  after  planting,  shows  that  by  proper  treatment 
their  existence  is  not  so  fleeting.  The  spurs  must  be 
managed  in  a  manner  similar  to  that  described  in  treat- 
ing of  pyramids,  to  renew  them,  and  the  slender  fruit 
branches  must  be  shortened.  This,  in  addition  to  the 
manuring  to  be  hereafter  described,  constitutes  the  sub- 
stance of  their  management. 

The  Pruning  and  Management  of  the  Apple  and  Pear 
as  Espaliers. — In  the  cool,  moist  climate  of  England,  this 
is  a  popular  and  advantageous  method  of  training  apples 
and  pears.  The  specimens  of  this  kind  in  public  and  pri- 
vate gardens  there,  are  admirable  in  their  way,  and  illus- 
trate the  skill  and  handiwork  of  the  English  gardener 
very  favorably.  The  best  espalier  for  the  apple  and  pear 
is  that  of  ihQ  horizontal,  that  is,  an  upright  central  stem,  with 


Fig.    115.— PEAR-TREE   TRAINED    HORIZONTALLY*, 

horizontal  arms  or  branches  at  equal  distances  on  both 
sides  (fig.  115).  The  production  of  this  tree  depends  in 
the  main  on  the  same  principles  as  the  pyramid,  and  does 
not  require  illustration.  The  young  tree  is  cut  back  to 
within  six  inches  of  the  ground.  From  the  shoots  pro- 
duced below  that  point,  three  are  selected,  the  upper  one 
to  form  the  upright  leader  or  stem,  and  two  lateral  or 
side  ones  to  form  the  two  first  arms.  The  first  season 
these  shoots  are  allowed  to  grow  upright  and  are  kept  in 
equal  vigor.  At  the  commencement  of  the  second  season 


240  PRUNING. 

they  are  all  cut  back  far  enough,  say  one  third  to  one 
half  their  length,  or  even  more  in  some  cases,  to  insure 
the  growth  of  all  the  buds. 

The  upper  shoot  on  each  is  selected  for  a  leader,  and  the 
others  are  pinched  at  two  inches  or  less.  After  the  pru- 
ning, the  arms  are  brought  down  half  way  to  a  horizontal 
position,  and  towards  the  latter  end  of  the  season,  wholly. 
A  uniformity  of  growth  among  all  the  parts  is  main- 
tained according  to  the  means  and  principles  already  laid 
down,  and  year  after  year  the  tree  is  thus  treated  until 
the  requisite  hight  and  number  of  horizontal  arms  or 
branches  be  obtained.  In  the  case  of  very  vigorous 
growing  sorts  the  leader  may  be  stopped  in  June,  and 
thus  a  second  pair  of  arms  be  produced  in  one  year.  The 
upright  leader  and  the  branches  are  treated  in  a  similar 
manner — a  difference  in  vigor  always  requiring  a  corre- 
sponding difference  in  treatment.  For  espaliers,  the  apple 
should  be  on  the  Paradise  or  Doucin,  and  the  pear  on  the 
quince^  because  these  stocks  all  diminish  the  vigor  of 
wood  growth,  which  is  often  the  chief  difficulty  in 
managing  trained  trees. 

The  aspect  for  these  trees  should  never  be  due  south.  A 
railing  to  train  such  trees  on,  is  made  of  upright  posts 
sunk  in  the  ground,  and  connected  with  cross-bars,  at 
eight  to  twelve  inches  apart,  upon  which  the  arms  of  the 
espalier  are  fastened  with  willow  or  bass  matting.  Mr. 
Rivers,  in  his  "  Miniature  Fruit  Garden,"  exhibits  a  sys- 
tem of  growing  pears  in  espalier,  in  the  form  of  pyramids, 
as  adopted  by  himself.  I  saw  these  trees  when  in  Eng- 
land, in  1849,  and  although  it  appeared  a  very  ingenious 
and  economical  arrangement,  admitting  a  great  number  of 
varieties  in  a  small  space,  and  besides  very  well  adapted 
to  an  English  climate,  yet  it  did  not  appear  to  offer  any 
advantages  that  would  warrant  its  recommendation  in 
this  country,  unless  under  rare  circumstances  in  the  most 
northern  sections.  Whoever  will  study  attentively  the 


THE    PEAR.  241 

means  described  for  conducting  a  pyramid,  can  succeed 
fully  in  training  the  espaliers  or  wall  pyramid. 

THE    PEAR   IN    WINE-GLASS    FORM. 

Captain  Win.  K.  Austin,  of  Dorchester,  Mass.,  has  very 
successfully  adopted  a  method  of  training  his  dwarf  pear- 
trees,  which  he  calls  the  "  wine-glass  pattern."  Hovey's 
Magazine  of  Horticulture,  February,  1865,  contained  a 
full  account  of  this  method  of  training  by  Captain  A. 
himself,  and  I  extract  from  that  the  following  condensed 
statement : 

"I  take  good,  thrifty  dwarf  trees,  say  two  years  from 
the  bud  ;  I  set  them  out  in  April,  eight  feet  apart,  in 
rows,  and  the  rows  twelve  or  fifteen  feet  apart.  I  cut 
off  the  top,  or  head  it  back,  cutting  out  the  center  leader, 
if  any,  and  prepare  the  tree  for  a  low  start.  The  first 
season  the  growth  is  usually  small,  but  the  second  spring 
(a  year  from  planting)  they  are  prepared  to  start  vigor- 
ously, and  must  be  headed  back  or  cut  in,  arid  the  tree 
formed  this  second  summer  into  the  form  you  desire  it  to 
take.  A  certain  number  of  leaders,  ten  or  twelve,  may 
be  allowed  to  grow,  the  lower  ones  about  eighteen  inches 
from  the  ground,  with  a  clean  stem  below  that. 

"Nothing  but  these  leaders  are  allowed  to  grow — no 
central  leader,  but  all  equally  distributed.  All  side  shoots 
and  spray  are  kept  down  by  nipping  or  cutting  off  with 
very  light  shears,  leaving  always  three  or  four  leaves  at 
the  base  of  the  twig. 

"Those  leaders,  having  all  the  sap,  grow  fast,  and  must 
be  topped,  when  too  long,  about  the  10th  of  July,  or 
sooner,  if  necessary,  to  check  and  concentrate  the  ener- 
gies of  the  tree,  and  stock  it  up.  This  may  have  to  be 
repeated  more  than  once,  but  if  topped  too  early,  the 
tendency  is  to  throw  out  more  :side  shoots,  and  increase 
the  labor.  After  the  10th  or  middle  of  July,  the  growth 
11 


242  PRUNING. 

becomes  sluggish  during  the  hot  weather,  and  if  in  the 


116. — FEAK-TItEE  THAINED  IN  WINE-GLASS  FORM. 


fall  they  start  to  growing  again,  the  same  process  must 
be  repeated,  and  thus  all  the  pruning  is  done  during  the 
growing  season. 


CORDON   TRAINING.  243 

"  This  being  done  each  year,  the  tree  is  constantly  in 
shape  ;  no  saw  is  required  to  remove  large  limbs  and 
waste  its  energies,  and  no  sap  lost  in  superfluous  growth. 
The  wood  being  exposed  to  the  sun  and  air,  ripens  well, 
and  predisposes  to  the  production  of  fruit  spurs  and 
buds,  and  thus  early  bearing  is  secured." 

I  saw  these  trees  of  Captain  Austin's  not  long  ago,  and 
was  delighted,  not  only  with  the  symmetry,  regularity, 
and  naturalness  of  their  form,  but  with  their  vigor, 
health,  and  productiveness. 

It  is  really  a  model  pear  garden.  The  system  is  exactly 
that  pursued  by  the  French  in  the  management  of  their 
"  cordons,"  and  Captain  Austin's  "leaders"  are  "  cordons." 
His  "  wine-glass "  trees  are  like  the  French  "  vase,"  or 
"  goblet,"  but  less  artificial.  Captain  Austin  does  not  tie 
or  restrain  the  branches  in  any  way,  but  leaves  them  free 
to  spread  after  their  natural  habit,  and  that  is  one  feature 
of  the  system  that,  in  my  opinion,  adds  much  to  its  value. 

CORDON   TRAINING. 

M.  Dubreuil  says  that,  "  with  all  the  progress  we  have 
made  in  arboriculture,  in  the  employment  of  means  for 
the  speedy  attainment  of  certain  ends,  it  still  requires  six- 
teen to  eighteen  years  to  perfect  the  form  of  an  espalier 
pear-tree  in  any  of  the  large  designs,  such  as  palmette, 
fan,  etc.,  which  cover  from  thirty  to  sixty  square  feet  of 
wall  (eighteen  to  twenty  metres). 

"Add  to  this  the  labor,  care,  and  skill  required  to  obtain 
these  forms  in  perfection,  and  the  means  necessary  to 
maintain  an  equal  growth  and  vigor  between  the  differ- 
ent parts  of  the  tree,  objects  which  are  so  complicated 
that  a  large  number  of  gardeners  fail  in  their  execution. 

"  Struck  by  these  difficulties,  we  have  sought  to  remedy 
them  by  suggesting  a  new  form  which,  much  less  difficult 
to  establish  than  any  of  the  others,  permits  the  surface  of 


244 


PRUNING. 


a  wall  to  be  covered  much  sooner,  and  brings  the  trees 
into  full  bearing  at  a  much  earlier  period,  without  abridg- 
ing their  duration.  We  have  given  to  this  new  method, 
invented  by  us,  for  the  pear,  in  1852,  the  name  of '  Cordon 
Oblique  Simple.'  Its  application  is  made  as  follows  : 

"  Take  young  trees,  one  year  from  the  graft  or  bud, 
healthy  and  vigorous,  having  single  stems ;  plant  about 
eighteen  inches  apart,  and  incline  one  from  the  other, 
at  an  angle  of  about  60°. 

"Each  one  is  cut  back  one-third  its  length,  above  a 
bud,  in  front,  as  at  A,  fig.  117.  During  the  summer  fol- 
lowing, the  development  of 
the  terminal  shoot  is  favored 
as  much  as  possible,  and  all 
the  others  are  transformed 
into  fruit  branches  or  spurs  by 
the  aid  of  these  operations, 
recommended  for  the  same 
purpose,  in  training  the  pear 
as  a  pyramid.  In  the  spring 
following,  each  of  these  young 
trees  presents  the  aspect  of 
fig.  118. 

"  The  second  pruning  con- 
sists in  applying  to  each  of 
the  lateral  branches  the  care 
necessary  to  transform  them 
into  fruit-spurs,  and* to  cut 
back  one-third  the  new  terminal  shoot.  The  summer 
treatment  will  be  like  that  of  the  preceding. 

"  At  the  third  pruning,  the  young  stem  should  ordina- 
rily attain  two-thirds  its  entire  length,  when  it  should 
be  brought  down  to  an  angle  of  45°  with  the  surface  of  the 
ground ;  and  the  terminal  shoot  and  laterals  are  subjected 
to  the  same  operations  as  in  previous  seasons.  If  these 
trees  had  been  brought  down  at  first  to  an  angle  of  45°,  it 


Fig.    117. — OBLIQUE   CORDON 
PEAK — FIRST  TEAR. 


CORDON    TRAINING. 


245 


'would  have  promoted  the  growth  of  strong  superfluous 
shoots  at  the  base,  to  the  detriment  of  the  terminal  shoot. 

"  To  complete  these  trees,  it  remains  only  to  continue 
to  prolong  the  stem,  by  means  of  the  operations  described, 
until  it  reaches  the  top  of  the  wall. 
Having  reached  that,  the  stems  are 
cut,  each  year,  about  fifteen  inches 
below  the  coping  of  the  wall,  in  order 
to  make  place  for  the  annual  growth 
of  a  vigorous  shoot,  which  will  cause 
the  sap  to  circulate  freely  through 
the  whole  extent  of  the  stem." 

"  As  to  the  side  of  the  horizon  to- 
wards which  the  tree  should  be  in- 
clined, this  is  a  matter  of  no  import- 
ance where  the  walls  run  east  and 
west ;  but  for  .those  north  and  south, 
the  stems  should  be  inclined  to  the 
south;  the  fruit  branches  on  the 
lower  sides  will  thus  be  better  ex- 
posed to  the  light.  It  is  recommend- 
ed, however,  that  where  the  walls  are 
situated  on  sloping  ground,  the  trees 
should  be  inclined  towards  the  summit 
of  the  slope,  otherwise  they  would 
attain  the  top  of  the  wall  too  soon. 

"  The  trees  being  planted  about  eighteen  inches  apart, 
it  results  that  the  espalier,  when  complete^  is  composed  of 
branches,  lying  parallel,  with  a  space  of  about  a  foot  be- 
tween them,  as  in  fig.  119. 

"  The  espaliers,  trained  in  this  form,  can  be  completed 
in  five  years,  whereas,  by  other  methods,  it  would  require 
ten  or  twelve. 

"  They  may  begin  to  fruit  the  fourth  year,  and  be  in  full 
bearing  the  sixth,  while  twenty  years  would  be  required 
by  the  other  methods. 


Fig.  118.— OBLIQUE  COR- 
DON   PEAR— SECOND 
TEAR. 


246 


PRUNING. 


"Another  advantage  of  importance  is,  that  on  the  same 
extent  of  wall  required  for  an  espalier  of  the  large  kind, 
you  can  have  a  great  many  cordons,  each  of  which  may 
IDC  a  different  variety,  thus  greatly  increasing  the  interest 
of  the  plantation. 

"  Besides,  if  a  large  espalier  tree  dies,  it  makes  a  great 
blank  on  a  wall,  and  requires  a  quarter  of  a  century  to 


Fig.    119. — OBLIQUE   CORDON   PEAK-TREES. 

replace  it ;  but  if  a  cordon  dies,  the  blank  is  a  small  one, 
and  very  soon  filled  up  with  a  new  tree. 

"  The  following  objections  have  been  urged  against  this 
form : 

"It  lias  been  feared  that  keeping  the  tree  in  such  a 
small  space  will  induce  such  vigorous  growth  as  to  pre- 
vent fruitfulness  ;  but  this  vigor  being  in  proportion  to 
the  extent  of  surface  of  the  soil  to  which  the  roots  have 
access,  and  these  being  only  eighteen  inches  apart,  this 
fear  must  be  groundless. 

"  It  has  also  been  suggested  that  trees  so  near  one  an- 
other could  not  live;  but  as  the  stem  and  branches  of  the 
trees  are  to  correspond  with  the  extent  of  soil  accessible 
to  the  roots,  there  can  be  no  force  in  this  objection. 


TRELLISES. 


247 


"  It  is  farther  objected  that  the  cordon  espalier  is  more 
expensive  than  one  in  the  old  method.  This  is  true,  as 
regards  first  expense  ;  but  against  this,  the  operations  of 
pruning  are  much  more  rapidly  executed.  We  can  ob- 
tain a  full  crop  of  fruit  from  the  cordon  in  six  years, 
whereas  it  would  take  sixteen  or  twenty  by  the  old 
method.  The  crop  of  ten  seasons  would  certainly  pay 
many  times  the  extra  expense  of  the  first  planting. 

"  Finally,  it  is  said  that  to  give  sufficient  space  to  the 
stem  of  these  trees,  the  walls  must  be  of  a  certain  hight. 
This  is  true ;  but  it  will  suffice  if  the  minimum  hight  be 
nine  feet.  We  conclude,  then,  that  for  walls  at  least 
nine  feet  high,  the  simple  oblique  cordon  is  to  be  pre- 
ferred ;  for  walls  of  less  elevation,  the  old  palmette,  or 
fan." 

TRELLISES. 

The  most  simple  trellis  on  which  to  train  pear  trees  in 
this  method  is  that  illustrated  by  fig.  120.  For  a  wall  of 


Fig.   120.— TRELLIS    FOR  OBLIQUE  CORDON. 

five  feet  elevation,  three  transverse  pieces,  solidly  fixed 
against  the  wall,  then  a  series  of  laths  nailed  to  the  trans- 


248 


PRUNING. 


verse  pieces,  a  foot  apart,  and  inclined  at  an  angle  of  45°. 
Each  of  these  laths  will  be  a  conductor  for  the  stem  of 
the  young  tree.  Galvanized  wire  may  be  used  instead 
of  lath. 

SECTION   2. — PRUNING  AND   TRAINING   THE    QUINCE. 


As  ordinarily  grown,  the  quince  is  the  most  neglected, 
and,  consequently,  the  most  unsightly,  deformed  tree  to  be 
found  in  the  orchard  or  garden,  and  yet,  when  well  treat- 
ed, it  is  really,  both  when  in  blossom  and  in  fruit,  one  of 
the  most  beautiful  of  all  our  fruit  trees.  Its  fruit  is  more 
esteemed,  and  more  generally  used  in  this  than  in  any 
other  country.  It  is  naturally  a  crooked  or  spreading 
bush,  and  without  some  attention  to  pruning  and  training 
when  young,  it  assumes  an  irregular  form,  branching  near 
the  ground,  and  quite  destitute  of  bearing  wood  on  all  its 

lower  and  interior 
parts.  It  is  in  this 
neglected  form  we 
most  generally  find  it. 
To  make  a  regular 
and  handsome  little 
tree,  we  have  only, 
in  the  first  place,  to 
rear  a  straight  and 
stout  trunk  about  two 
or  three  feet  high. 

If    the     plants     be 
weak  or  crooked  when 
planted,    they    should 
be    cut  low  down    to 
Fig.  121.  obtain    a     stout     and 

B,  frait  branch  of  the  quince;   C7,  the  shoot       f      •    t^       stem          T,, 
produced  from  the    fruit-bed ;     A,  point    at     ' 
which  it  should  be  cut  back  after  bearing.  young  shoot  should  be 

kept  tied  up  to  a  stake  to  prevent  it  from    straggling. 


THE    CHERRY.  249 

The  second  year,  if  the  growth  has  been  vigorous,  and 
low  trees  are  desired,  the  head  may  be  commenced.  But 
if  a  stem  three  or  four  feet  high  be  desired,  it  should  be 
at  least  one  incli  in  diameter,  and  another  year's  growth 
may  be  necessary. 

The  head  is  formed  in  the  same  manner  as  described  for 
standard  and  dwarf  apples  and  pears.  It  should  be  round, 
symmetrical  and  open,  and  well  furnished  on  all  parts 
with  bearing  wood. 

The  bearing  branches  or  spurs  of  the  quince  are  small 
twiggy  shoots  (B,  fig.  121),  produced  on  wood  at  least 
two  years  old.  These  bear  two,  three,  or  more  fruit  buds. 
These  produce  shoots  two  or  three  inches  long  ((7,  fig. 
121),  on  the  point  of  which  the  fruit  is  borne  singly. 
These  spurs  have  always  wood  buds  as  well  as  fruit  buds, 
and  therefore  they  should  be  shortened  back  as  to  A,  fig. 
121 ,  the  spring  after  they  have  borne,  in  order  to  produce 
new  spurs  at  the  same  point. 

The  French  train  it  in  beautiful  pyramids,  on  pre- 
cisely the  same  principle  as  the  penr  and  apple ;  but  the 
leading  shoot  must  be  kept  fastened  to  an  upright  sup- 
port— a  small  rod  attached  to  the  base — on  account  of  its 
reclining  habit. 

THE    MEDLAR 

is  but  little  cultivated.  Its  treatment  may  be  exactly 
similar  to  that  described  for  the  quince,  its  habits  of 
growth  and  bearing  being  similar. 

SECTION  3. — PRUNING  THE  CHERRY. 

The  cherry  is  trained  in  any  desirable  form  with  as 
much  facility  as  any  of  our  hardy  fruit  trees.  The 
heart  and  bigarreau  classes  are  very  rapid  growers,  often 
attaining  the  hight  of  six  feet  the  first  season  from  the 
bud  or  graft,  and  in  two  years  forming  fine  standard  trees 
11* 


250  PRUNING. 

six  to  seven  feet  high,  with  a  few  top  shoots.  They  have 
also  large,  drooping  leaves,  aiid,  with  few  exceptions,  stiff, 
erect,  or  slightly  curved  branches. 

The  duke  class  does  not  grow  so  rapidly.  The  branches 
are  stiff  and  erect,  the  leaves  smaller  as  a  general  thing 
than  the  preceding  classes,  more  erect,  thicker  and  of  a 
deeper,  darker  green  color. 

The  morettos  are  of  a  bushy  habit,  with  smaller  leaves 
than  any  of  the  preceding  classes,  and  the  branches  are 
more  slender  and  closer  together.  The  bark  of  all  is  very 
tough,  being  composed  of  several  layers  of  powerful  fibres 
and  tissue.  The  mode  of  bearing  has  already  been  de- 
scribed under  the  head  of  fruit  branches,  in  the  beginning 
of  the  work.  The  fruit  is  produced  on  wood  three  years 
old,  thus  :  The  shoot  of  last  year's  growth,  which  is  now 
furnished  with  leaf  buds  in  all  its  length,  will  produce 
at  the  point,  if  not  shortened,  one  or  more  shoots,  and  all 
the  buds  remaining  are,  during  the  season,  transformed 
into  clusters  of  fruit  buds,  and  produce  fruit  the  year  fol- 
lowing. In  the  center  of  these  clusters  of  fruit  buds 
there  is  always  a  wood  bud,  and  this  grows  a  little  and 
produces  new  clusters  of  fruit  buds  to  replace  those  that 
have  borne.  Some  of  the  morellos  produce  fruit  on  two- 
year-old  wood,  like  the  peach,  the  leaf  buds  being  trans- 
formed into  fruit  buds  during  the  second  growth  of  the 
first  season  of  their  formation.  The  fruit  bud  is  very 
easily  distinguished  from  the  leaf  bud  by  its  roundness 
and  plumpness. 

Pruning  the  Cherry  as  a  Standard. — In  Western  New 
York  the  cherry  succeeds  so  well,  and  being  in  general  ex- 
empt from  the  bursting  of  the  bark,  that  trees  can  be  grown 
safely  with  trunks  five  or  six  feet  high ;  but  in  the  West, 
where  this  malady  prevails,  the  less  there  be  of  a  naked 
trunk  the  better ;  for  it  is  the  trunk  and  large  branches 
that  are  generally  so  affected.  As  a  standard,  the  cherry 
requires  very  little  pruning. 


THE    CHERRY.  251 

To  Form  a  Round  Open  Head. — We  will  take  for  ex- 
ample a  young  tree  two  years  old,  having  three  or  four 
top  branches.  These  at  the  time  of  planting  should  be 
cut  back  to  within  four  or  five  buds  of  their  base,  and 
when  growth  has  commenced,  the  requisite  number  of 
shoots,  say  four  or  five,  to  form  the  framework  of  the  head, 
are  selected,  evenly  distributed  on  all  sides,  and  all  the 
others  pinched  or  rubbed  oif. 

The  following  season  these  shoots  may  again  be  short- 
ened to  produce  secondary  branches  to  fill  up  spaces,  and 
those  arising  from  the  centre  should  be  pinched  out,  for  the 
head  must  be  kept  open  and  accessible  to  the  sun  and 
light.  In  about  three  years  of  such  treatment  the  head 
of  the  tree  assumes  a  permanent  form,  and  thereafter  may 
be  left  to  itself,  except  to  remove  occasionally  branches 
that  may  cross  or  interfere  with  one  another. 

Pyramidal-headed  Standards. — Certain  varieties,  for 
instance,  SparhawJJs  Honey,  Downer,  China  Bigar- 
reau,  Black  Tartarian,  Blade  Heart,  and  some  others, 
make  fine  pyramidal-shaped  heads  without  pruning,  more 
than  to  give  the  leader  its  due  superiority  at  the  begin- 
ning, and  to  remove  afterwards,  crossing  and  superfluous 
branches. 

Such  varieties  as  the  Yellow  Spanish,  Black  Eagle, 
Knight's  Early  Black,  Elton,  and  all  the  spreading  sorts, 
should  have  round,  open  heads,  built  upon  three  or  four 
main  branches,  as  described. 

Pruning  the  Cherry  as  a  Pyramid. — The  same  process 
recommended  for  the  pyramidal  training  of  the  pear  and 
npple  may  be  applied  with  complete  success  to  the  cherry. 
We  have  now  in  our  specimen  grounds  a  collection  of  all 
the  classes  trained  according  to  the  method  described, 
and  their  condition  is  in  every  respect  satisfactory;  they 
have  all  given  fruit  the  third  year. 

In  most  cases  the  trees  were  taken  from  the  nursery 
rows  at  the  end  of  their  first  season's  growth  from  the 


252  PRUNING. 

bud.  Some  had  no  side  branches,  and  others  had.  It  is 
very  common  for  cherries,  and  especially  the  Dukes  and 
Morellos,  to  form  a  number  of  lateral  brandies  the  first 
season.  Growth  becomes  slightly  suspended,  or  at  least 
goes  on  very  slowly,  in  July ;  during  this  time  the  buds  on 
the  lower  part  acquire  a  sort  of  maturity,  and  when  a  ne\v 
growth  commences  they  push  and  form  shoots.  Cherry 
trees  of  this  kind  are  in  a  good  condition  for  pyramids. 
We  select  from  these  the  strongest  and  best  situated 
to  form  the  lower  tier  of  permanent  branches ;  the  lower 
ones  are  shortened  to  four  or  five  buds,  and  the  upper  ones 
to  two  or  three.  The  leader  or  stem  is  cut  back  to  within 
six,  eight,  or  ten  buds  of  the  branches.  Those  having  no 
branches  are  cut  back  to  within  six  or  eight  buds  of  the 
stock.  And  this  is  the  first  pruning. 

Treatment  during  the  First  Summer  after  Pruning. — 
When  the  young  shoots  have  grown  a  couple  of  inches  in 
length,  such  as  are  intended  for  permanent  branches  are 
chosen,  and  the  others  are  pinched  in  the  same  manner  as 
recommended  for  pears  and  apples.  Such  as  acquire  more 
vigor  than  is  consistent  with  their  position,  must  be 
checked.  It  frequently  happens  that  unless  the  leader  has 
been  cut  back  close,  only  three  or  four  shoots  will  be  pro- 
duced at  the  extremity,  leaving  a  vacant  space  below. 
This  can  be  remedied  in  most  cases  by  pinching  the  shoots 
around  the  leader  when  they  have  grown  about  an  inch. 
In  some  cases  it  may  be  necessary  even  to  check  the 
leader  to  force  the  lower  buds  into  growth.  This  is  n 
point  of  considerable  importance  in  conducting  n,  pyramid, 
and  should  never  be  lost  sight  of. 

The  Cherry  as  an  Espalier. — Except  it  be  the  training 
of  the  morello,  or  some  other  late  varieties,  on  a  north 
wall,  to  prolong  their  season  of  maturity,  the  cherry  is  sel- 
dom grown  as  an  espalier  tree  in  this  country,  nor  is  it  to 
be  recommended,  except  in  some  rare  instances.  The  sim- 
plest and  probably  the  best  form  is  that  suggested  for 


THE    CHERRY.  253 

pears  and  apples,  an  upright  stem  with  horizontal  branches. 
To  produce  this  the  same  means  are  employed  as  have 
been  previously  described.  If  the  tree  has  no  side 
branches  proper  for  the  first  arms,  it  must  be  cut  back  to 
within  six  inches  of  the  ground,  and  from  the  shoots  pro- 
duced below  that,  one  is  selected  for -the  leader,  and  one 
on  each  side  for  the  first  horizontal  branches ;  the  other 
shoots  are  pinched  off.  At  the  next  pruning  the  leader  is 
again  shortened  to  produce  another  pair  of  side  brandies 
eight  or  ten  inches  from  the  first ;  the  leader  is  continued 
in  an  upright  direction,  and  the  side  branches  are  brought 
half-way  down  in  midsummer,  and  at  the  following  spring 
pruning  they  are  placed  in  the  horizontal  position.  The 
leading  shoot  of  rapid-growing  sorts  may  be  stopped  about 
the  end  of  June,  and  this  will  produce  side  shoots  from 
which  another  pair  of  arms  may  be  taken,  and  thus  gain 
a  year  in  the  formation  of  the  tree,  or  covering  the  wall 
or  trellis. 

For  weak-growing  sorts,  the  fan  form  or  some  modifica- 
tion of  it  would,  perhaps,  be  more  suitable  than  the  hori- 
zontal, as  it  offers  less  restraint  to  the  circulation  of  the 
sap  in  the  branches. 

The  Cherry  as  a  Dwarf  or  Bush. — The  slow-growing 
sorts,  such  as  the  dukes  and  morellos,  when  worked  on  the 
mahaleb  stock,  make  very  pretty  and  very  easily  managed 
prolific  bushes,  and  by  occasional  root-pruning  they  may 
be  confined  to  as  small  a  space  as  a  dwarf  apple-tree.  To 
produce  this  form  the  young  tree  is  cut  back  to  within 
five  or  six  buds  of  its  base ;  and  from  the  shoots  produced 
below  that,  four  or  five  evenly  distributed  around  the  tree 
are  selected  for  the  permanent  branches  or  framework  of 
the  tree.  The  others  are  rubbed  off.  At  the  next  pru- 
ning the  branches  thus  produced  are  shortened  to  produce 
secondary  branches ;  and  thus  it  is  treated  from  year  to 
year  until  the  tree  is  formed  and  full-grown. 

The  branches  must  be  kept  far  enough  apart  to  admit 


254  PRUNING. 

the  sun  and  air  freely  amongst  them.  When  the  tree  is 
five  or  six  years  old,  if  it  grows  too  vigorously,  requiring 
more  space  than  can  be  given  it,  the  larger  roots  may  be 
shortened  in  July  or  August,  or  in  the  winter.  This  and 
the  pyramid,  and  the  dwarf  standard,  with  stems  two  feet 
high,  are  the  most  eligible  garden  forms  for  the  cherry.* 

This  dwarf  or  bush  form  is  probably  the  most  advan- 
tageous one  in  which  the  cherry  can  be  successfully  grown 
in  all  of  the  Western  and  North-western  States.  Where 
the  summers  are  hot  and  the  air  often  very  dry,  the  foli- 
age protects  the  main  stems ;  and  where  snows  are  deep, 
the  tree  is  in  this  form  often  protected  from  cold  and  the 
fruit  buds  saved. 

The  dwarf  standard  is  treated  precisely  as  the  dwarf, 
and  differs  from  it  only  in  having  two  feet  instead  of  six 
or  eight  inches  of  stem.  In  pruning  and  training  the 
cherry,  it  should  always  be  borne  in  mind  that  when 
laro;e  branches  are  removed,  it  is  liable  to  suffer  from  the 
gum,  and  therefore  the  regulation  of  the  shoots  should 
be  carefully  attended  to  in  summer,  that  amputations  of 
woody  parts  may  be  avoided  as  far  as  possible.  When  it 
is  necessary,  however,  the  cut  surface  heals  more  rapidly 
and  surely  when  made  in  the  summer,  during  the  growing 
season. 

SECTION  4. — PRUNING  AND  MANAGEMENT  OF  THE  PEACH. 

The  peach  is  universally  regarded  as  the  most  delicious 
fruit  of  our  climate,  and  ranks  in  importance  for  orchard 
culture,  next  to  the  apple  and  the  pear.  Nowhere  in  the 
world  is  it  produced  in  such  quantities,  and  with  so  little 

*Mr.  Rivers  states  in  his  '"Miniature  Fruit  Garden"  that  he  has  a 
plant  of  the  late  Duke  Cherry  ten  years  old  that  never  was  root-pruned,  and 
yet  is  a  small  prolific  tree,  five  feet  in  night,  and  the  branches  the  same  in 
diameter.  We  have  in  our  specimen  grounds  trees  of  several  dukes  and 
morellos,  six  years  old,  on  mahaleb  stocks,  uot  over  four  or  five  feet 
high,  and  pictures  of  iruiU'ulness. 


THE   PEACH.  255 

labor,  as  in  America.  An  English  or  French  gardener 
will  expend  more  labor  on  a  single  tree  than  the  majority 
of  our  orchardists  do  upon  one  hundred.  Our  favorable 
climate  obviates  a  multitude  of  difficulties  that  have  to  be 
contended  with  in  other  countries,  and  renders  unneces- 
sary the  minute  and  laborious  systems  of  management 
which  they  find  it  absolutely  necessary  to  pursue. 

But  this  very  excellence  of  our  climate  has  given  rise  to 
a  most  negligent  and  defective  system  of  cultivation,  as  is 
everywhere  illustrated  in  the  condition  of  orchards.  The 
peach,  of  all  other  trees,  is  one  that,  from  its  mode  of 
growth  and  bearing,  requires  constant  pruning  to  main- 
tain it  in  a  shapely,  thrifty,  and  productive  state.  The 
sap  tends  powerfully  to  the  extremities  of  the  shoots, 
more  so  than  in  any  other  fruit  tree.  The  buds  that  do 
not  push  and  form  shoots  the  first  season  after  their  forma- 
tion, are  lost;  they  cannot,  as  in  most  other  trees,  be  ex- 
cited into  growth ;  and  hence  it  is  that  the  lower  parts 
become  so  rapidly  denuded  of  young  wood,  and  that  trees 
left  to  themselves  six  or  seven  years  are  in  a  measure 
worn  out  and  useless. 

The  fruit  is  borne  only  on  wood  of  the  preceding  year 
(see  fruit  branches),  and  every  part  destitute  of  such  wood 
must  be  worthless  ;  consequently  one  of  the  great  objects 
of  pruning  is  to  keep  all  parts  of  the  tree  furnished  with 
a  regular  and  constant  succession  of  annual  bearing  shoots. 

The  case  of  a  single  shoot  will  illustrate  the  influence 
of  pruning  and  its  necessity.  By  referring  to  the  fruit 
branch,  it  will  be  seen  that  it  is  furnished  with  a  certain 
numbe1.'  of  wood  buds  and  fruit  buds.  At  the  base  there 
are  always  one  or  two  wood  buds  at  least. 

Now,  if  that  shoot  were  not  pruned,  all  the  fruit  buds 
on  it  would  probably  produce  fruit — one,  two,  or  three 
of  the  wood  buds  at  the  top  would  make  new  shoots; 
these  would  necessarily  be  very  weak  in  consequence  of 
the  fruit  below  them.  At  the  end  of  the  season  there 


256  PRUNING. 

would  be  a  long,  vacant  space,  entirely  destitute  of  a 
young  shoot  or  a  living  bud.  This  is  the  way  that 
the  interior  and  lower  parts  of  trees  soon  become  de- 
garnished. 

But  when  that  shoot  is  shortened,  we  will  say  one  half, 
the  sap  is  retained  in  its  lower  parts,  one  half  of  the  fruit 
buds  are  removed,  and  the  consequence  is  that  large  and 
fine  fruits  are  obtained  from  those  remaining ;  vigorous 
young  shoots  are  produced  from  the  lower  buds  to  bear 
next  year,  and  take  the  place  of  those  which  have  already 
borne.  In  this  way  regular  uniform  crops  of  large  and 
fine  fruit  are  obtained,  and  a  constant  succession  of  young 
shoots  is  kept  up. 

To  Form  the  Head  of  a  Standard  Peach  Tree. — We 
will  suppose  it  the  intention  to  form  a  standard  tree,  with 
a  trunk  two  feet  in  hight,  and  a  round,  open,  and  sym- 
metrical head.  We  take  a  yearling  tree  and  cut  it  back 
to  within  two  feet  and  a  half  of  the  ground  in  the  spring. 
Below  this  cut,  a  certain  number  of  shoots  will  be  pro- 
duced, from  which  three  will  be  selected  to  form  the  main 
branches  or  framework  of  the  head.  All  the  others  are 
rubbed  off  when  two  or  three  inches  long,  or  sooner.  At 
the  end  of  the  season  we  have  a  tree  with  three  branches. 

The  second  year  these  three  branches  are  cut  back  full 
one-half  their  length,  and  from  each  we  take  a  shoot  to 
continue  the  branch,  and  one  to  form  a  secondary  branch. 
The  other  shoots  produced  below  these  are  pinched  or 
checked,  to  prevent  them  from  interfering  with  the  growth 
of  the  leading  branches.  In  the  fall  of  the  year  we  have 
a  tree  with  six  leading  branches,  and  some  bearing  shoots 
below  on  the  older  wood. 

The  third  year  each  of  these  six  branches  is  shortened 
one-half,  in  order  to  obtain  more  secondary  branches,  and 
some  fruit  branches  on  the  lower  parts.  All  young  shoots 
on  the  old  wood,  whether  fruit  branches  or  not,  should  be 
cut  back  one-half,  or  as  far  as  may  be  necessary,  to  cause 


THE   PEACH.  257 

the  wood  buds  at  their  base  to  push,  and  make  shoots  to 
bear  next  year. 

The  formation  of  the  head  goes  on  as  described,  for  two 
or  three  years  more,  when  it  is  complete ;  for  peach  trees, 
properly  pruned,  do  not  assume  such  wide-spreading  forms 
as  they  do  naturally. 

The  main  branches  and  secondary  branches  should  be 
at  equal  distances  throughout,  and  far  enough  apart  to 
give  the  bearing  wood  on  their  sides  the  full  benefit  of  the 
sun  and  air. 

An  equality  of  vigor  should  also  be  preserved  amongst 
them  by  summer  pinching.  It  is  not  uncommon  to  see  a 
very  vigorous  shoot  start  up  in  a  peach-tree,  and  appro- 
priate so  much  of  the  sap  as  to  injure  a  whole  branch ; 
these  should  be  checked  the  moment  their  character  is  ob- 
served, unless  they  may  be  wanted  to  fill  a  vacancy.  Every 
part  of  the  branch  should  be  furnished  with  bearing 
shoots,  and  these  should,  every  spring,  be  shortened  in 
one  half  or  more,  to  produce  others  at  their  base,  whilst 
those  that  have  borne  are  cut  out. 

Some  people  imagine  that  when  they  have  taken  a  pair 
of  hedge  shears,  or  some  such  instrument,  and  shorn  off 
the  ends  of  the  shoots  on  the  outside  of  the  tree  indis- 
criminately, they  are  "  shortening  in,"  and  so  they  are,  as 
they  would  a  hedge  !  Some  of  the  shoots  are  cut  away 
entirely,  fruit-buds  and  all,  whilst  others  remain  untouched, 
and  the  tree  becomes  like  a  brush  on  the  outside  and 
naked  within.  This  is  almost  as  bad  as  the  let-alone  sys- 
tem. Every  shoot  should  be  cut  separately.  The  most 
expeditious  instrument  for  doing  this  is  a  pair  of  light 
hand  pruning  shears,  such  as  the  French  secateur  (see  in- 
struments). A  person  accustomed  to  its  use  can  prune 
every  shoot  on  a  full-grown  tree  in  an  almost  incredibly 
short  space  of  time,  as  compared  with  that  required  with 
the  knife.  Extensive  orchardists,  looking  to  the  cost,  may 
be  deterred  from,  such  a  labor;  preferring  to  let  their 


258  PRUNING. 

orchards  die  after  bearing  a  few  crops,  and  plant  new 
ones  to  take  their  place.  In  the  case  of  garden  trees,  or 
the  family  orchard,  the  case  is  different,  and  careful  pru- 
ning will  pay. 

Root  Pruning. — In  gardens  where  the  soil  is  rich,  and 
trees  very  full  of  vigor,  disposed  to  grow  too  much  and 
bear  too  little,  root  pruning  should  be  practised  once  in 
two  or  three  years — the  first  lightly,  removing  only  the 
ends  of  the  large  feeding  roots.  The  safest  time  to  do  it 
is  between  the  fall  of  the  leaf  and  the  opening  of  spring. 
Vegetation  in  the  peach  seldom  becomes  sufficiently  inac- 
tive during  the  growing  season,  to  enable  the  roots  to  be 
pruned  with  safety. 

The  Peach  in  the  form  of  a  Vase. — Among  all  the 
forms  in  which  trees  are  conducted,  this  is,  when  well 
done,  one  of  the  most  graceful. 

It  consists  of  a  short  stem,  two  to  five  feet,  according  to 
fancy,  with  a  head  composed  of  three  or  four  main  branches, 
and  two  or  three  times  that  number  of  secondary  branches, 
all  trained,  by  means  of  light  stakes  at  first,  and  after- 
wards wire  or  wooden  hoops,  in  the  form  of  a  vase  or 
goblet.  The  branches  are  arranged  in  a  circle,  with  bear- 
ing shoots  filling  up  the  spaces.  No  shoots  are  permit- 
ted either  in  the  interior  or  in  front,  that  is,  projecting 
from  the  exterior  surface  of  the  goblet. 

The  most  beautiful  trees  of  this  form  are  to  be  seen  in 
the  gardens  of  the  Luxembourg,  at  Paris,  and  elsewhere 
in  France. 

Mr.  Louis  Gaudry,  who  has  a  very  pretty  little  planta- 
tion in  Paris,  and  who  has  published  a  small  work  on 
pruning  and  training  trees,  gives  the  annexed  cut  as  a  rep- 
resentation of  one  of  his  vase  peach-trees  of  eight  years' 
growth  (fig.  122).  The  following  is  the  substance  of  his 
mode  of  conducting  them. 

First  Pruning. — The  stem  of  the  yearling  tree  is  cut 
back  to  the  point  at  which  it  is  desired  to  commence  the 


THE     PEACH. 


259 


head,  to  three  buds,  forming  a  triangle,  and  as  nearly  as 
possible  of  the  same  hight.      Three  shoots  are  obtained 


Fig.  123.—  PEACH-TUBE  IN  FOUM  OF  A  VASE. 

from  these  three  buds  to  form  the  first  or  main  branches 
or  framework  of  the  vase.  To  favor  the  growth  of  these, 
all  the  shoots  produced  below  them  are  rubbed  off. 

In  order  to  give  them  the  proper  inclination,  three  small 


260  PRUNING. 

stakes  are  inserted  in  the  ground,  to  which  the  three 
branches  are  fastened ;  it  is  supposed  that  if  these  stakes 
be  sunk  as  far  from  the  base  of  the  tree  as  the  roots  ex- 
tend, and  in  an  upright  position,  there  will  be  a  sufficient 
opening  or  space  in  the  center.  The  branches  should  be 
thus  brought  out  about  August,  so  that  the  formation  of 
new  layers  of  wood  subsequent  to  that  time  may  fix  them 
in  their  places.  The  side  shoots,  which  are  produced  on 
the  young  branches,  towards  the  latter  part  of  the  season^ 
designated  by  the  French  bourgeois  anticipes,  are  pinched 
to  one  or  two  leaves. 

Second  Pruning.— The  spring  following,  the  branches  are 
loosed  from  the  stakes,  and  shortened  to  within  six  or  eight 
inches  of  their  base,  to  a  leaf  bud  on  the  outside  or  front 
of  the  branch,  and  with  a  bud  below  it,  either  on  the  right 
or  left  side.  The  front  bud  continues  the  main  branch, 
and  the  side  bud  forms  a  secondary  branch.  The  three 
branches  are  pruned  in  this  way,  taking  care  that  the 
secondary  branch  on  each  is  on  the  same  side,  so  that  two 
of  them  can  not  come  in  contact.  To  favor  the  growth  of 
these  new  shoots,  all  those  situated  below  them  that  acquire 
too  much  vigor,  musk  be  pinched  at  three  or  four  leaves. 

A  wooden  hoop  may  now  be  placed  in  the  center,  to 
which  the  branches  are  attached  to  keep  them  in  their 
places.  In  this  way  the  tree  progresses ;  every  year  one 
or  more  secondary  branches  are  produced,  the  main 
branches  increase  in  length,  and  fruit  shoots  are  produced 
on  all  the  intervals  of  the  branches  on  their  two  sides. 

All  shoots  that  push  either  inside  or  in  front  of  the  vase 
are  pinched  off,  and  pinching  is  practised  at  all  times  to 
maintain  equal  growth  between  the  different  parts,  and  to 
check  any  too  great  tendency  of  the  sap  to  the  ex- 
tremities. 

Third  Pruning. — The  fruit  branches  are  pruned  to 
three  or  four  buds,  to  induce  the  lower  wood  buds  to  push 
and  form  new  wood  for  the  next  season. 


THE    PEACH.  261 

The  main  branches  are  cut  back  to  ten  or  twelve  inches 
above  the  previous  pruning,  to  a  bud  on  the  front  to  con- 
tinue the  branch ;  the  buds  selected  to  produce  another 
series  of  secondary  branches  must  all  be  on  the  side  oppo- 
site the  previous  ones.  If  the  position  of  the  buds  renders 
this  impossible,  then  they  may  all  be  chosen  on  the  same 
side  as  the  first. 

The  hoops  this  year  will  require  to  be  larger  in  diame- 
ter than  the  preceding,  in  order  to  give  increased  width 
to  the  vase  as  it  proceeds  upwards.  All  the  other  opera- 
tions are  conducted  in  the  same  manner.  The  hoops  in- 
side are  placed  within  six  to  eight  inches  of  one  another, 
and  the  circular  branches  within  twelve  to  fifteen  inches. 
As  the  tree  advances  in  age,  the  growth  may  become  too 
vigorous  at  the  top  ;  and  in  this  case,  the  main  branches, 
always  the  most  vigorous,  must  be  pruned  short,  and  even 
pinched  during  summer,  to  turn  the  sap  to  the  benefit  of 
the  weaker  parts. 

These  are  the  main  points  in  the  management  of  these 
vases.  It  may  be  added,  that  the  apple,  pear,  cherry,  and 
indeed  all  other  trees  may  be  grown  in  this  form,  and  by 
the  same  means,  varying  it  only  to  suit  different  modes 
of  growth  and  bearing,  and  degrees  of  vigor. 

The  Peach  as  an  Espalier. — Espalier  training  will  never 
be  practiced  in  this  country  to  any  very  great  extent,  and 
therefore  it  may  be  considered,  in  comparison  with  open*- 
ground  systems,  unimportant.  Yet  there  are  some  dis- 
tricts not  so  favorably  situated  as  to  be  able  to  produce 
peaches,  apricots,  and  nectarines,  in  the  open  ground. 
For  these  a  proper  system  of  espalier  training  is  impor- 
tant, because  in  this  form  trees  are  easily  protected  from 
winter  or  spring  frosts,  and  they  ripen  their  fruits  perfect- 
ly, where  open  ground  or  standard  trees  would  not.  We 
have  a  tree  trained  on  the  wall  of  one  of  our  nursery 
buildings  which  never  fails  to  yield  a  good  crop  of  superb 
fruit,  when  trees  in  open  ground,  both  in  orchard  and  gar- 


262 


PRUNING. 


den,  fail.  The  fruit  is  of  superior  quality,  and  ripens 
considerably  earlier  than  that  on  trees  in  open  ground. 
On  the  8th  of  August  last,  1871,  we  picked  from  it  Hale's 
Early,  nine  inches  in  circumference. 

The  Peach  as  an  Espalier  trained  on  a  wall  or  trellis. — 
There  are  a  multitude  of  forms  for  espalier  trees  where 
training  on  walls  or  trellises  is  necessarily  and  extensively 
practiced,  as  in  England  and  France.  The  great  requisites 
in  a  wall  tree  are,  first,  to  have  all  the  wall  covered ;  and, 
second,  to  have  the  different  parts  of  the  tree  alike  favor- 
ably placed,  with  reference  to  its  growth.  Next  to  these 
are  simplicity  and  naturalness. 

The  most  popular  form  in  England  is  that  called  the  fan 


Fig.    123. — FAN-SHAPED    ESPALIER. 

(fig.  123).  In  it  the  branches  are  spread  out  so  as  to  re- 
semble a  fan  ;  the  lower  ones  are  nearly  or  quite  hori- 
zontal ;  the  next  more  oblique ;  and  so  they  proceed  until 
the  center  ones  are  quite  upright,  and  this  appears  to  be 
the  defect  of  this  form ;  for  the  horizontal  branches  can 
not  maintain  such  a  visror  as  those  more  erect  above  them. 
The  square  espalier,  invented  by  M.  Felix  Malo,  of 
France,  and  now  extensively  practiced  by  some  of  the 
best  peach-growers  of  the  celebrated  town  of  Montreuil, 
seems  to  possess  more  advantages,  all  in  all,  than  any 
other.  The  Bon  Jardinier,  from  which  the  following 
description  of  the  method  of  conducting  these  trees  is 


THE    PEACH.  263 

taken,  says:  "This  generally  approved  form  begins  to 
find  imitators,  and  it  is  probable  that  one  day  it  will  be 
adopted  by  all  intelligent  gardeners." 

First  Year. — We  will  begin  with  a  peach-tree  one  year 
from  the  bud,  and  cut  it  down  to  within  six  or  eight 
inches,  or  three  or  four  buds  of  the  stock.  From  the  buds 
produced  below  the  cut,  two  of  the  strongest  are  chosen, 
one  on  each  side  to  form  the  two  main  branches — branches 
merely  ;  all  the  other  shoots  are  destroyed,  and  these  two 
are  allowed  to  grow  upright,  and  in  the  fall  they  will  be 
three  to  four  feet  high. 

Second  Year  (fig.  124). — In  the  spring,  when  hard  frosts 
are  no  longer  apprehended, 
the  branches  are  examined 
to  see  if  they  be  sound  and 
healthy,  free  from   bruises, 

insects,    etc.,  and  they  are 

.    ,       i  .£•£•  Fig-  124.  Fte.  125. 

cut  back  to  twelve  or   fif-     SECOND  TEAR          THIRD  TEAR< 

teen    inches   of  their   base, 

according  to  their  strength ;  a  weak  branch  ought  al- 
ways to  be  cut  back  in  such  a  case  as  this  further  than 
a  strong  one. 

The  bud  cut  to,  should,  if  possible,  be  on  the  inside, 
and  the  next  bud  below  it  on  the  outside  ;  the  first  to 
continue  the  main  branch,  and  the  other  to  form  the  first 
exterior  secondary  branch.  All  shoots  starting  on  the 
front  or  rear  of  the  main  branch  should  be  rubbed  off,  and 
those  on  the  sides  laid  in  early  to  prevent  their  acquiring 
too  much  vigor.  The  main  branches  are  left  until  July, 
when  they  are  brought  down  to  the  form  of  a  V,  and  at- 
tached to  the  wTall  or  trellis  in  this  position.  The  exterior 
secondary  branch  is  placed  more  obliquely,  and  the  fruit 
branches  are  kept  in  a  uniform  and  moderate  growth  by 
pinching  and  laying  in.  The  most  vigorous  should 
always  be  laid  in  first,  to  check  them,  and  favor  the  others. 

Third  Year  (fig.  125). — After  loosening  the  tree  from 


264  PRUNING. 

the  trellis,  the  two  main  tranches  are  cut  back  to  sixteen 
or  eighteen  inches  of  the  previous  pruning,  and  the  two 
lower  or  secondary  branches  to  twelve  or  sixteen  inches. 

The  fruit  branches  are  shortened  to  within  two  or  three 
buds  of  their  base,  and  all  are  again  fastened  back  in  their 
places.  When  the  young  shoots  have  reached  the  length 
of  three,  four,  or  five  inches,  such  as  are  badly  placed  on 
the  front  or  rear  of  the  branches,  or  in  any  place  injurious 
to  the  symmetry  of  the  tree,  are  removed.  During  the 
summer  the  different  brandies  must  be  laid  in  from  time 
to  time,  the  most  vigorous  first.  This  year  two  more 
secondary  branches  must  be  obtained  on  each  side,  in  the 
same  manner  as  in  the  previous  year.  Their  growth  is 
also  promoted  by  the  same  means. 

The  fruit  branches  on  the  sides  of  the  main  brandies 
may  give  some  fruit  this  year,  and  those  on  the  secondary 
branches  may  bear  next  year. 

The  fruit  branches  that  have  borne  are  to  be  cut  away 
each  year  and  replaced  by  others,  therefore  we  must  com- 
mence to  provide  for  these,  branches  of  replacement. 
They  are  produced  as  follows  : 

First,  it  may  be' observed  that  fruit  branches  have  gen- 
erally one  or  more  wood  buds  at  their  base.  Sometimes 
these  will  push  and  form  branches  of  replacement  without 
any  assistance,  more  than  cutting  back.  In  such  a  case 
there  is  no  difficulty.  When  the  fruit  is  ripe,  or  at  the 
next  pruning,  the  fruit  branch  that  has  borne  is  cut  away, 
and  the  new  one  takes  its  place.  But  nature  does  not 
always  act  thus.  It  is  generally  necessary  to  force  the 
development  of  these  branches  of  replacement,  without 
which  the  branches  in  all  their  lower  parts  would  become 
entirely  denuded. 

Hence,  then,  when  a  branch  of  replacement  fails  to  ap- 
pear by  the  ordinary  method  of  shortening,  we  have  two 
modes  of  forcing  it :  one  is  to  make,  after  the  fruit  is  set, 
an  incision  through  the  bark  two  inches  above  one  of  the 


THE     PEACH.  265 

wood  buds,  and  pinch  close  all  the  shoots  on  the  fruit 
branch,  leaving  only  rosettes  of  leaves  necessary  to  the 
perfection  of  the  fruit;  pinching  must  be  repeated  all  the 
time  that  the  shoots  on  the  fruit  branch  continue  to  grow. 

Fourth  Year  (fig.  126).  —  After  having  examined  if  the 
tree  is  equally  vigorous  in  all  its  parts,  and  having  de- 
cided upon  the  means  of  restoring  the  balance  if  it  has 
been  lost,  the  tree  is  detached  from  the  wall  or  trellis,  and 
pruned,  commencing  with  the  fruit  branches  that  have 
borne.  These,  it  must  be  remembered,  are  to  be  cut  back 
each  year  to  the  new  branch  of  replacement  produced  at 
its  base.  The  young  shoot  then  becomes  the  fruit  branch, 
and  is  pruned  within  four  to  fourteen  inches,  according  to 
its  vigor  and  the  situation  of  the  fruit  buds. 

The  two  main  branches  are  cut  back  to  within  about 
twenty  inches  of 
the  previous  prun- 
ing ;  the  first  shoot 
on  the  inside  is 
chosen  to  continue 


the  branch,  and  the  Fig.  126.  Fig.  127. 

next  one  below  it,         FOURTH  YEAR-  FIFTH  TEAR- 

on  the  lower  and  outer  side,  to  produce  the  third  ex- 
terior secondary  branch.  The  two  secondary  branches 
already  formed  are  cut  back  to  about  twelve  to  fifteen 
inches  of  the  previous  pruning,  in  order  to  make  all  the 
lateral  buds  on  them  push.  The  terminal  bud  produces  a 
leader  to  continue  them  ;  all  the  others  are  fruit  branches. 

In  attaching  the  tree  again  to  the  wall,  the  angle  that 
exists  between  the  two  main  branches  is  gradually 
widened,  the  branches  a  little  more  spread  at  every  pruning. 

Fifth  Year  (fig.  127).  —  The  tree  is  now  composed  of 
two  main  branches,  both  of  which  have  three  secondary 
branches  on  their  exterior  lower  sides,  and  fruit  branches 
on  all  their  length  on  the  interior  and  upper  side  ;  and  all 
that  is  wanted  to  complete  it  is  to  transform  three  of  the 


266 


PRUNING. 


bearing  shoots  on  the  upper  sides  into  three  secondary 
branches,  corresponding  and  alternating  with  the  three 
lower  ones.  To  do  this  we  select  the  fruit  branch  on  each, 
nearest  the  fork  or  base  of  the  main  branches.  The 
growth  of  this  is  favored  by  training  it  in  an  upright  posi- 
tion, and  by  pinching  any  vigorous  shoots  near  it.  The 
tree  is  managed  thus,  as  in  preceding  years,  in  regard  to 
laying  in  the  shoots  according  to  their  vigor,  and  pinch- 
ing to  maintain  regularity,  etc. 

The  Sixth  Year  (fig.  128). — The  pruning  is  conducted 
on  the  same  principles  precisely,  and  another  interior 
secondary  branch  is  produced  in  the  same  way  as  last 
year. 

The  Seventh  Year  (fig.  129). — Another  is  produced  on 
each,  and  then  the  tree,  with  its  two  main  branches  and 
twelve  secondary  branches,  all  trained  in  the  form  of  a 
parallelogram,  is  complete  (fig.  130). 

Fig.  131  represents  the  tree  complete,  bearing  shoots 
and  all. 

The  main  branches  should  be  permanently  fixed  at  an 


Fig.  128. 

SIXTH   YEAR. 


Fig.  129. 
SEVENTH   TEAR. 


angle  of  45°  ;  the  lowest 
exterior  secondary  branch- 
es at  15°.  Some  cultiva- 
tors recommend  that  the 
interior  secondary  branch- 
es converge  to  the  center 
at  an  angle  of  45°.  This 

gives  them  an  oblique  direction,  and  places  them  upon 

a  more  equal  footing  with  the  other  parts. 


Fig.  130.— EIGHTH  YEAR. 


THE     PEACH. 


267 


In  training  such  trees  an  imaginary  circular  line  is  pro- 
duced on  the 
wall  or  trellis, 
and  this  is  divid- 
ed  off  into  parts, 
corresponding  to 
the  degrees  of  a 
circle,  commenc- 

" 

ing  at  the  center 
above,  and  num- 
bering  both  ways 
to  the  base :  this 
enables  the  per- 
sons who  conduct 
the  tree  to  lay  in 
the  branches  on 
both  sides  at  an 
equal  angle  with 
precision,  which 
is  quite  requisite 
to  maintain  uni- 
formity  of 
growth  and  vig- 
or. It  has  been 
considered  neces- 
sary to  treat  this 
subject  some- 
what minutely, 
for  the  purpose 
of  giving  to  per- 
sons wholly  un- 
acquainted with 
training,  .some 
knowledge  of  the 
principles  on  which  it  depends,  and  the  mode  of  its 
execution. 


268  PRUNING. 

The  form  described  above  is  one  of  the  simplest  of  all 
espaliers,  except  the  horizontal,  described  in  treating  of 
the  apple  and  the  pear;  but  whoever  can  train  a  tree  in 
this  manner  well,  can  do  it  in  all  others,  for  the  principles 
of  growth  are  the  same  always ;  and  he  who  understands 
these,  can  mould  his  trees  at  pleasure,  provided  he  can  be- 
stow the  necessary  labor.  The  peach  may  be  grown  in 
any  or  all  the  espalier  forms,  and  may  thus  be  easily  pro- 
tected by  means  of  straw-mats,  or  evergreen  branches. 

Laying  in,  and  fastening  the  trees  to  walls  and  trel- 
lises.— When  trees  are  trained  to  a  wall  or  fence,  the 
branches  are  fastened  in  the  desired  position  by  means  of 
shreds  of  cloth  list,  or  strips  of  India-rubber  half  an  inch 
wide,  and  from  two  to  three  inches  long,  according  to  the 
size  of  the  branch  to  be  laid  in.-  Very  small  nails  are 
necessary  to  train  on  boards,  but  larger  ones  on  a  brick  and 
stone  wall.  On  a  wire  trellis,  strings  of  bass  matting  are 
used  instead  of  nails  and  cloth;  and  in  fastening  to  sim- 
ple rails,  small  willows  may  be  used.  The  principle  to  be 
observed,  in  laying  in  and  fastening  the  branches  and 
shoots  of  espalier  trees,  is  that  strong  shoots  must  be  laid 
in  sooner  than  weak  ones,  and  also  more  inclined  from  the 
vertical  direction.  A  great  deal  may  be  done  towards 
maintaining  uniformity  of  growth  in  the  different  parts 
of  a  trained  tree,  by  laying  in  the  branches  in  a  judicious 
and  discriminating  manner. 

SECTION  5. — PRUNING  AND  MANAGEMENT  OF  THE  PLUM. 

The  plum  bears  its  fruit  on  spurs  produced  on  wood 
two  years  old  and  upwards,  like  the  cherry  (see  Fruit 
Branches).  On  young  trees  these  spurs  are  several  years 
in  the  process  of  formation ;  but  when  they  commence  to 
bear  they  endure,  if  well  managed,  for  many  years.  They 
are  generally  furnished  with  wood  buds  on  their  lower 
parts ;  and  when  they  begin  to  grow  feeble,  they  ought 


THE     APRICOT.  269 

to  be  renewed  by  cutting  back.  The  plum  is  almost  uni- 
versally grown  as  a  standard,  and  the  head  may  be  con- 
ducted in  the  same  manner  as  described  for  the  cherry. 
The  branches  should  be  mainly  regulated  by  summer 
pinching,  to  obviate  the  necessity  of  knife-pruning,  that 
frequently  gives  rise  to  the  gum.  Some  varieties  of  very 
rapid  growth  produce  shoots  three  or  four  feet  long  in 
one  season  ;  and  if  not  shortened  back  at  the  spring  pru- 
ning, the  tree  presents  long  naked  branches  in  a  short 
time. 

Standards  and  dwarf  standards  may  be  root-pruned  to 
advantage  in  small  gardens,  and  where  it  is  desirable  to 
get  them  into  early  bearing. 

The  plum  may  be  trained  in  any  of  the  espalier  forms 
already  described,  and  in  the  same  manner. 

SECTION  6. — PRUNING  AND  MANAGEMENT  OF  THE  APRICOT. 

The  Apricot,  like  the  peach,  has  fruit  and  wood  buds 
mixed  on  the  shoots  of  one  year's  growth.  It  has  also 
little  fruit  branches  or  spurs  like  the  plum,  which  are 
capable  of  being  renewed  by  shortening. 

The  mode  of  pruning  must  therefore  have  in  view  the 
production  of  young  wood,  and  maintaining  the  spurs  in 
a  vigorous  and  fruitful  state.  When  neglected,  it  becomes, 
like  the  peach,  denuded  of  young  bearing  wood  in  the  in- 
terior, and  enfeebled  by  over-fruitfulness.  The  shoots 
should  therefore  be  shortened  every  season,  according  to 
their  length,  as  recommended  for  the  peach,  to  reduce  the 
number  of  blossom  buds,  and  favor  the  production  of  new 
bearing  wood. 

It  is  very  liable  to  the  gum,  and  severe  pruning  with 
the  knife  should  be. obviated  as  far  as  possible  by  pinch- 
ing. It  may  be  conducted  as  a  standard,  pyramid, 
dwarf,  or  espalier,  on  the  same  principle  as  other  trees. 
When  trees  become  enfeebled  by  neglect  or  age,  they  can 


270  PRUNING. 

be  renewed  by  heading  down  close  to  the  stem.  New 
and  vigorous  shoots  are  immediately  produced  that  form 
a  new  tree.  This  heading  down  should  be  done  very 
early  in  the  spring,  and  the  wounds  be  carefully  covered 
with  grafting  wax. 

It  is  one  of  the  first  of  our  fruit  trees  to  blossom  in  the 
spring,  and  therefore  in  some  localities  the  flowers  are 
killed  by  the  frost.  Where  this  is  apprehended  it  may  be 
well  to  plant  on  the  north  side  of  a  wall,  or  something 
that  will  rather  retard  the  period  of  blooming,  and  sub- 
ject it  less  to  freezing  and  thawing.  We  have  apricots 
trained  here  on  a  south  aspect,  yet  in  seven  years  the 
blossoms  have  not  been  killed,  though  in  one  or  two  in- 
stances they  have  been  slightly  injured.  The  espalier 
trees  offer  great  facility  for  protection;  and  therefore, 
where  spring  frosts  prevail,  the  apricot  should  be  so 
trained.  Mats  or  straw  hurdles  can  be  placed  against 
them,  both  in  spring  and  winter  if  necessary,  with  the 
same  ease  that  a  common  frame  is  covered.  We  have 
used  e-ergreen  boughs  for  this  purpose  with  great  success. 

SECTION  7. — PRUNING  THE  NECTARINE. 

The  Nectarine  is  but  a  smooth-skinned  peach.  The  trees 
are  so  similar  in  their  mode  of  growth,  buds,  etc.,  that 
they  can  not  be  distinguished  from  one  another,  and,  there- 
fore, whatever  has  been  said  respecting  the  pruning  and 
treatment  of  one,  applies  with  equal  force  to  the  other. 
This  fruit  is  so  infested  with  the  curculio,  that  it  is  almost 
impossible  to  obtain  a  crop  that  will  pay  for  culture  in 
any  part  of  the  country  in  the  open  ground.  Unless  some 
more  effective  remedy  be  discovered  than  any  yet  known, 
it  will  soon  have  to  retire  from  the  garden,  and  take  up 
"its  residence  with  the  foreign  grape  in  glass-houses. 

It  produces  excellent  crops  trained  in  espaliers  on  a 
back  wall,  or  a  center  trellis  of  a  cold-grapery. 


THE  GRAPE.  271 

SECTION  8. — HAKDY  NATIVE  GRAPES. 

Culture,  Pruning,  and  Training. — When  we  wrote  the 
first  pages  of  THE  FRUIT  GARDEN,  in  1851,  the  culture 
of  our  native  hardy  grape  was  principally  confined  to 
a  few  vines  in  the  gardens  of  amateur  horticulturists. 
Vineyard  culture  was  supposed  to  be  adapted  only  to 
high,  hilly  locations,  and,  beyond  a  few  hundred  acres 
in  the  neighborhood  of  Cincinnati,  O.,  was  all  unknown 
and  untried.  The  varieties  at  that  time  considered  val- 
uable for  general  cultivation  were  limited  to  a  bare 
half-dozen.  But  the  past  twenty  years  have  wrought 
wonderful  changes,  abounding  in  results  of  incalculable 
value.  As  we  have  said,  at  the  time  we  first  wrote,  the 
list  of  valued  varieties  was  but  a  bare  half-dozen,  and  no 
attempts  had  then  been  made  toward  improvement  by  the 
production  of  new  sorts  from  seed ;  but  now  our  lists  of 
varieties  grown  from  seed  have  become  numerous,  greatly 
improved  in  quality  of  fruit,  with  habits  as  to  ripening, 
growth,  etc.,  adapted  to  all  soils  and  locations.  The  cul- 
ture of  the  vine  has  become,  as  it  were,  a  feature  belong- 
ing to  every  household  and  garden,  while  vineyards  by 
the  thousands  of  acres  cover  not  only  the  hills  but  the 
broad  prairies  and  other  level  lands  of  our  States.  The 
interest  and  extent  of  this  branch  of  rural  occupation  have 
induced  the  application  of  thought  and  skill.  So  that 
while  the  past  twenty  years  have  wrought  wonderful 
changes,  the  prospective  advance  in  improvement  of  varie- 
ties and  adaptation  to  soils  and  localities  is  an  item  be- 
yond computation. 

Varieties  introduced  since  1851. — In  1851  the  varieties 
of  hardy  grapes  known  and  described,  numbered  about 
twenty ;  now  their  number  is  about  two  hundred,  many 
of  them,  however,  of  inferior  quality,  and  others  so  nearly 
resembling  their  parents  as  not  to  make  them  specially 
valuable. 


272  PRUNING. 

Acres  in  Cultivation. — In  the  absence  of  any  reliable 
statistics  no  true  account  of  the  number  of  acres  in  culti- 
vation can  now  be  written,  but  estimating  from  the  re- 
ports of  Grape  Growers',  Horticultural,  and  Agricultural 
Societies,  we  may  safely  assume  that  we  have  something 
over  one  million  of  acres,  of  which  the  territory  west  of 
the  Rocky  Mountains  may  claim  100,000,  and  the  States 
east  the  remainder. 

Garden  Culture. — The  management  of  our  native  grapes 
is  exceedingly  simple.  The  vine  appears  to  accommodate 
itself  to  a  great  variety  of  modes  of  treatment  and  give  an 
abundance  of  fruit.  But  a  well-pruned  and  trained  vine, 
in  a  well-prepared  soil,  will  assuredly  compensate  for  all 
additional  labor  and  care  in  its  culture. 

Immense  crops  are  raised  throughout  the  country  in  the 
entire  absence  of  any  systematic  mode  of  training  or  prun- 
ing. A  single  vine  in  a  neighbor's  garden,  carried  to  the 
flat  roof  of  an  out-building,  and  allowed  to  ramble  there  at 
pleasure,  without  any  care  but  a  very  imperfect  pruning 
every  spring,  produces  annually  many  bushels  of  fruit ; 
but  the  quality  is,  of  course,  greatly  inferior  to  that  pro- 
duced on  well-pruned,  trained,  and  dressed  vines.  A  grape- 
vine neatly  trained  on  a  trellis,  with  its  luxuriant,  ample 
foliage  and  rich,  pendulous  clusters  of  fruit,  is  really  one 
of  the  most  interesting  objects  in  a  fruit  garden,  and  at 
the  same  time  one  of  the  most  profitable ;  for  the  shade 
and  ornament  alone  that  it  produces,  are  a  sufficient 
recompense  for  its  culture. 

Soils. — In  planting  a  grape-vine  the  first  poin.t  is  to  pre- 
pare a  border  for  the  roots. 

This  must,  in  the  first  place,  be  perfectly  dry.  If  the 
soil  or  situation  be  wet  or  damp,  it  must  be  drained  thor- 
oughly, so  that  no  stagnant  moisture  can  exist  in  it.  In 
the  next  place,  it  must  be  deep  ;  three  feet  is  a  good  depth, 
and  it  must  not  be  less  than  two,  where  abundant  and  fine 
crops  are  expected.  The  mode  of  preparation  is,  to  dig 


THE     GRAPE.  273 

out  the  natural  soil  to  the  required  depth,  and  the  length 
and  width  necessary.  For  a  single  vine  the  border  should 
be  eight  or  ten  feet  long  and  four  wide. 

When  the  excavation  is  made,  if  the  soil  be  stiff  or 
damp,  a  few  inches,  or  a  foot  deep,  of  small  stones,  brick, 
rubbish,  etc.,  may  be  laid  on  the  bottom  as  a  sort  of  drain- 
age. On  the  top  of  this,  deposit  the  compost  for  the 
border.  This  may  consist  of  two  parts  of  good,  fresh, 
friable  loam,  one  of  old,  well-rotted  manure,  and  one  of 
ashes,  shells,  broken  bones,  etc.,  all  completely  mixed  with 
one  another.  The  top  of  the  border,  when  finished,  should 
be  at  least  a  foot  higher  than  the  surface  of  the  ground, 
so  that  it  may  still  remain  higher  after  settling. 

Position  of  the  Vine  or  Border. — A  southern  exposure 
is  generally  considered  best,  because  there  the  vine  is  sup- 
posed to  get  the  rays  of  the  sun  during  the  entire  day; 
but  an  eastern  exposure,  with  sun  three-fourths  of  the  day, 
is  often  quite  as  successful,  and  especially  so  with  the 
early-ripening  varieties.  A  western  is  next  best,  while 
a  northern  exposure,  with  the  sun's  rays  only  one-half  the 
day,  should  be  avoided  if  possible,  but  if  used  the  hardy 
early-ripening  varieties  only  should  be  planted. 

Planting  the  Vine. — As  in  planting  any  other  tree,  the 
roots  should  be  carefully  spread  out,  and  the  fine  earth 
worked  well  in  amongst  them.  Its  position  should  be  ex- 
actly in  the  centre  of  the  trellis  it  is  to  be  trained  on. 

The  depth  to  which  the  roots  are  covered  should  never 
be  less  than  four  inches  over  the  upper  or  crown  line,  and 
if  the  position  is  a  southern  one  and  the  soil  naturally 
dry,  six  to  eight  inches  will  be  better. 

Distance  Apart. — This  must  be  regulated  somewhat  by 
the  variety  of  vine  planted ;  the  Concord,  Tves',  or  other 
strong-growing  sorts,  requiring  nearly  double  the  room  of 
the  equally  healthy  and  vigorous  but  short-jointed  varie- 
ties, like  the  Delaware,  Rebecca,  etc. 

The  Trellis. — Having  the  border  thus  prepared,  the  next 
12* 


274 


PRUNING. 


point  is  the  trellis.  The  form  of  this  will  depend  on  the 
situation  it  is  to  occupy,  and  the  mode  of  training  to  be 
adopted.  Fig.  132  represents  one  intended  for  a  wall. 
The  principal  bars  or  frame- work  are  inch-and-a-half 
boards,  three  inches  wide,  nailed  together  at  the  angles. 

It  is  intended  for  one  vine,  and  may  be  the  hight  of 
the  wall  that  it  is  intended  to  occupy.  The  vertical  or 
upright  bars  are  three  feet  apart  and  the  cross  ones  six 
feet ;  between  them  are  rods  of  stout  wire.  The  first  or 
lowest  cross-bar  may  be  two  feet  from  the  ground.  It  is 


Fig.  132.— TRELLIS   FOB   A    SINGLE   VINE. 

fastened  to  the  wall  by  iron  hooks  or  brackets.  The  best 
and  simplest  mode  of  training  a  vine  on  such  a  trellis  as 
this,  is  to  produce  two  main  branches  or  arms  to  be 
trained  in  a  horizontal  manner  on  the  first  cross-bar. 
From  these  two  arms,  permanent  upright  canes  are 
trained,  one  to  each  of  the  upright  bars  of  the  trellis. 
These  upright  canes  produce  on  their  sides  a  succession 
of  bearing  shoots  from  year  to  year,  being  pruned  after 
what  is  called  the  *'  spur  "  system. 

The  trellis  may  also  be  made  entirely  of  wires,  using 
strong  half-inch  rods  for  the  main  uprights  and  cross-bars, 


THE     GRAPE. 


275 


then  No.  14  wire  for  intermediates,  and  these  arranged  to 
slide  along  the  main  rods  to  meet  the  requirements  of  the 
vine  during  its  growth.  The  main  rods  are  secured  to 
the  wall  by  cylinder  hook-staples.  A  neat  and  durable 
trellis  for  vines  in  the  open  garden  along  the  border  (see 
fig.  133)  may  be  made  by  setting  firm  wooden  posts,  well 
braced,  at  each  end  of  the  line,  then  stretch  one  half-inch 
rod  at  say  eighteen  inches  from  the  ground  and  another 
at  the  top  of  the  posts,  then  use  No.  9  wire  for  the  re- 
maining horizontal  lines,  and  at  distances  of  twelve  feet 
along  the  line  sustain  the  horizontal  rods  and  wires  by 
upright  bars  of  iron  one  inch  wide  by  one-quarter  inch 
thick,  the  lower  end  of  each  upright  let  into  a  stone  in 


Fig.  133.— TRELLIS   OF   WIRES   AND   POSTS. 

the  ground.  Now  place  upright  wires,  secured  at  the 
top  and  bottom,  so  that  they  will  slide  to  meet  the  wants 
of  the  shoots  of  the  vine.  This  wire  may  be  of  No.  14 
or  16.  It  is  not  absolutely  essential  that  the  trellis  be 
built  until  the  vines  have  grown  one  season ;  but  if  the 
vines  do  well,  the  cost  of  supplying  temporary  stakes, 
etc.,  will  more  than  balance  the  interest  on  the  cost  of 
the  trellis. 

With  the  vine  planted  and  trellis  built  we  have  next  to 
understand 

Pruning. — It  must  first  be  observed  that  the  grape- 
vine bears  its  fruit  on  shoots  of  the  current  year,  produced 


276  PRUNING. 

from  eyes  on  the  previous  year's  wood.  Fig.  134  repre- 
sents the  old  wood,  with  its  bearing  shoot.  It  is  impor- 
tant to  understand  this,  because  it  shows  the  necessity  of 
keeping  up  a  supply  of  young  wood  wherever  we  desire 
fruit  to  be  produced. 

It  is  immaterial  what  method  of  training  be  pursued, 
this  principle  of  production  must  always  be  remembered. 

To  illustrate  the  pruning,  we  will  suppose  the  plant  to 
be  one  or  two  years  old,  as  ordinarily  sent  out  from  the 
nursery.  It  may  have  only  one  shoot,  or  it  may  have  sev- 
eral. However  this  may  be,  all  are  pruned  off  but  the 


Fig.  134.— FRUITING   BHANCH   OF   THE   GRAPE. 
The  cross- line  near  the  end  shows  where  it  ou«jht  to  be  stopped. 

strongest,  and  it  is  cut  back  to  within  two  eyes  of  its 
base.  These  two  eyes  will  produce  shoots,  and  when  they 
have  made  a  growth  of  two  or  three  inches,  the  weaker 
one  is  rubbed  off  and  the  strong  one  trained  up.  It  is  al- 
lowed to  grow  on  until  September,  when  the  end  of  the 
shoot  is  pinched  to  mature  and  strengthen  it.  Any  side 
shoots  that  appear  during  the  summer  should  be  pinched 
off,  as  well  as  any  suckers  that  may  appear  about  the 
roots. 

Fig.  135  shows  the  condition  of  the  plant  or  vine  at  the 
close  of  the  first  season's  growth,  and  the  cross-mark  the 
line  at  which  to  cut  in  pruning  for  the 

Second  Year. — If  the  shoot  of  last  year  made  a  strong 
growth  of  ten  or  twelve  feet,  it  may  be  now  cut  back  to 
three  eyes,  and  two  canes  be  trained  up ;  but  if  it  made 


THE     GRAPE.  277 

only  a  weak  growth,  it  should  again  be  cut  back  to  two 
eyes,  and  one  shoot  only  trained  up. 

Side  shoots,  laterals,  or  "  thallons,"  as  they  are  some- 
times called,  should  be  carefully  watch- 
ed, and  as  soon  as  a  leaf  has  formed 
one  inch  in  diameter  the  shoot  should 
be  pinched  off  just  beyond  it,  with 
thumb  and  finger.  In  a  short  time  this 
leaf  will  have  become  of  full  size,  and 
the  bud  at  its  base  have  matured  and 
again  pushed  forth  a  new  shoot,  which 
should  be  stopped  as  at  first.  This 
sometimes  occurs  two,  three,  or  more 
times  in  a  season.  No  suckers  from. 
below  the  main  canes  should  be  per- 
mitted to  grow.  In  September  these 
canes  are  to  be  stopped  as  before,  and 
no  fruit  allowed. 

Third  Year. — We  have  now  two 
strong  canes  with  which  we  commence 
the  framework  of  the  vine.  Each  of 
these  is  cut  back  at  the  winter  pruning 
to  within  two  or  three  feet,  not  buds,  of 
its  base,  bent  in  the  form  of  a  bow,  and 
tied  to  the  lower  wire  of  the  trellis. 
After  the  buds  have  started  in  the 
spring,  and  made  a  growth  of  four  to 
six  inches,  these  canes  should  be  loosen- 
ed and  laid  in,  as  in  fig.  136,  and  fast- 
ened to  the  lower  horizontal  bar  of 
the  trellis.  The  bud  on  the  end  of 
each  at  c,  will  produce  a  shoot  to  con- 
tinue  the  prolongment  in  a  horizontal  pjg  i35._VINE  AT  THE 
direction,  and  a  bud  (a)  on  the  upper  BND  OF  THE  FIRST  TEAK. 
side  of  each  will  produce  a  shoot  to  be  trained  to  one  of 
the  upright  bars — the  first  one  on  its  division,  or  half  of 


278 


PRUNING. 


its  trellis ;  all  others  are  rubbed  off,  or  the  buds  cut  out. 
Thus  each  of  these  arms  produces  two  shoots — an  up- 
right and  a  horizontal  one.  During  the  summer,  these 


Fig.    136. — VINE   WITH   ITS   ARMS   LAID   DOWN. 

Tlie  arms  to  be  shortened  at  c,  the  bud  a  to  be  allowed  to  produce  a  shoot. 

shoots  are  carefully  tied  in  as  required,  the  side  shoots 
pinched  off  from  time  to  time,  and  all  suckers  rubbed 
out  as  they  appear.  They  are  also  stopped  in  September, 
as  before. 

Fourth  Year. — Each  of  last  year's  shoots  is  cut  back 
to  within  three  feet  of  its  base.  It  may  be  necessary  to 
cut  the  horizontal  ones  closer  than  the  upright  ones,  to 
obtain  another  strong  upright  shoot.  The  two  upright 

canes  already  es- 
tablished will  pro- 
duce a  shoot  from 
their  tops,  to  con- 
tinue their  exten- 
sion upwards,  and 
the  horizontal  ones, 
as  before,  produce 
a  shoot  at  the  point 
to  be  carried  out- 
wards, and  one  on 
the  top  to  be  train- 
ed up  to  one  of 
the  upright  bars.  This  year  several  fruit  shoots  will 
be  produced,  on  each  of  which  one  or  two  bunches  of 
grapes  may  be  ripened.  In  this  way  the  vine  goes  on 
adding  every  season  two  new  upright  canes,  and  two  or 
three  feet  in  length  to  the  previous  ones,  until  the  whole 
trellis  is  covered  ;  when  the  management  will  consist  in 


Fig.  137. 

Vine  with  horizontal  arras,  A,  A.  and  upright  per- 
manent canes,  spur-pruned. 


THE    GRAPE.  279 

pruning  the  spurs  every  winter  to  about  three  eyes.  Each 
fruit  branch  should  only  be  allowed  to  produce  two 
bunches  of  fruit,  and  when  the  shoot  has  made  four  to  six 
leaves  beyond  the  last  bunch  of  fruit  the  end  should  be 
pinched.  This  will,  of  course,  cause  the  full  development 
of  the  foliage,  and  in  a  short  time  the  last  bud  will  push 
out  a  side  shoot  or  lateral,  which  must  again  and  again 
be  pinched  as  it  grows.  The  object  of  this  is  to  arrest 
the  production  of  useless  wood  and  turn  the  sap  to  the 
benefit  of  the  fruit.  Fig.  137  represents  the  appearance 
of  a  vine  trained  in  this  way. 

By  such  a  system  as  this  the  trellis  is  covered  in  every 
part  with  bearing  wood,  the  fruit  and  the  foliage  are  all 
exposed  fully  to  the  sun,  a  uniformity  of  vigor  is  main- 
tained between  the  different  parts,  and  the  appearance  is 
beautiful. 

There  are  many  other  forms  of  training,  each  of  which 
has  its  merits  and  its  advocates,  but  it  should  always  be 
remembered  that  the  tendency  of  sap  in  all  vegetation  is 
toward  the  extreme  shoot,  or  end,  and  any  system  of 
training  that  assists  that  will  soon  render  weak  and  barren 
the  buds  nearest  the  crown.  The  Thomery  system,  so 
called  from  its  being  practised  in  a  little  village  of  that 
name  in  France,  is  one  of  the  neatest  and  most  systematic, 
as  well  as  effective  when  thoroughly  practised,  but  it  re- 
quires considerable  skill  and  much  labor.  It  is,  in  brief, 
to  form  the  trellis  as  we  would  for  any  other  mode,  only 
making  it  higher,  the  placing  the  vines  at  equal  distances, 
and  training  the  first  and  third  with  arms  to  the  lower 
wire ;  the  second  and  fourth  have  the  main  stem  carried 
up  to  the  second  wire,  where  the  arms  are  formed. 

In  fruiting,  canes  are  grown  annually  from  spurs  along 
these  arms,  and  tied  as  they  grow  to  the  upright  wires  on 
the  trellis.  It  is  estimated  that  to  keep  a  vine  in  good 
bearing  condition,  it  should  not  cover,  at  any  time,  over 
six  to  eight  feet  of  one  wire  of  the  trellis,  and,  as  before 


280  PRUNING. 

stated,  if  the  trellis  is  required  to  be  high,  it  may  be  so 
done  by  first  training  the  main  stem  of  the  vine  to  the 
hight  of  trellis  wire  upon  which  it  is  to  be  grown. 

Another  mode,  termed  the  Guyot  system,  consists  in 
growing  two  canes  upon  the  vine  the  second  year,  one  of 
which  is  cut  back  to  two  buds,  and  the  other  to  two  or 
three  feet,  and  tied  down  to  the  lower  wire  (see  fig.  138). 
Upon  this  lower  or  horizontal  cane,  the  fruit  is  grown, 
and  the  shoots,  as  they  extend,  are  tied  to  the  next  wire 
above.  The  two  canes  from  the  spur  are  grown  to  about 
five  feet,  when  they  are  stopped  in,  and  all  the  season  the 
pinching  of  the  side  shoots,  or  laterals,  is  continued,  and 


Fig.  138. — VINE    TRAINED   ON   THE    GUYOT    SYSTEM. 

all  suckers  rubbed  away.  This  system  is  modified  or 
changed  in  the  hands  of  some  growers,  by  not  fruiting 
the  horizontal  cane  the  first  year  it  is  laid  in,  but  pinching 
off  all  fruit,  and  carrying  upright  canes,  to  be  stopped  at 
the  second  or  third  wire,  according  to  strength  of  vine, 
and  on  them  to  make  the  fruit  the  following  year.  This 
is  again  changed  by  some  growers  spurring  back  each  al- 
ternate cane  springing  from  the  horizontal  one,  and  so 
fruiting  alternately.  Others,  again,  cut  back  these  upright 
canes  from  the  arm  in  proportion  as  they  extend  from  the 
main  vine.  The  upright  cnne  nearest  the  main  vine  is  thus 
left,  say  two  feet,  and  the  next  from  it  fourteen  inches,  and 


THE     GRAPE.  281 

so  reducing  that  the  end  of  the  arm  has  only  a  bud  from 
which  to  grow  a  new  cane  (see  fig.  139).  This  is  sup- 
posed to  assist  in  move  equally  distributing  the  flow  of 
sap.  The  upright  canes  from  the  main  vine  are  yearly 
cut  back  and  renewed  for  use  as  arms  when  wanted. 
In  cases  where  the  modes  of  training  above  described 


Fig.  139. — VINE  ON  THE  GUTOT   SYSTEM. 

cannot  be  conveniently  adopted,  two  or  three  poles,  twelve 
to  fifteen  feet  high,  may  be  sunk  in  the  ground,  with  a 
space  of  three  or  four  feet  between  them  at  the  bottom, 
and  fastened  together  at  the  top,  forming  a  cone  around 
which  the  permanent  canes  may  be  trained  in  a  spiral 
manner. 

This  produces  a  very  beautiful  effect,  and  occupies  com- 
paratively little  space,  but  the  grapes  will  not  all  ripen  so 


282  PRUNING. 

well,  nor  will  the  training  be  so  easy  as  on  the  flat  surface 
of  a  trellis. 

Another  way  of  arranging  the  poles  is  with  the  tops 
outwardly,  and  securing  them  at  distances  by  hoops. 
This  mode  gives  light  and  air  to  the  vine,  but  requires 
good  stout  poles,  well  set  in  the  ground,  to  support  it 
against  strong  winds. 

Very  tasteful  arbors  may  also  be  made  over  some  of  the 
walks,  by  training  the  vine  over  the  wood-work,  or  wire 
frame,  in  the  same  manner  as  on  a  trellis. 

This  is  a  very  common  practice  and  offers  many  advan- 
tages. Ingenious  persons  who  care  well  for  their  garden, 
as  well  in  its  appearance  as  its  productions,  will  conceive 
other  plans  still  better  adapted  to  their  particular  wants 
and  taste  than  any  of  these ;  but  the  main  point  must 
always  be  kept  in  view,  that  is,  to  provide  for  the  foliage 
a  free,  open  exposure  to  the  sun.  Any  system  that  does 
not  secure  this,  will  fail  to  a  greater  or  less  extent. 

In  the  management  of  a  grape-vine,  as  in  the  manage- 
ment of  other  trees,  summer  pruning,  i.  e.,  pinching  the 
ends  of  shoots,  not  cutting  away  of  foliage,  is  of  great 
consequence.  If  a  vine  is  left  to  itself  all  summer,  or  from 
one  winter  pruning  to  another,  it  will  be  found  that  avast 
quantity  of  useless  wood  has  been  produced,  and  that  to 
the  serious  detriment  of  the  bearing  shoots  for  the  follow- 
ing year.  The  growing  vine  should  be  frequently  visited, 
shoots  tied  in,  strong  ones  checked,  superfluous  ones 
rubbed  off,  and  every  part  kept  in  its  proper  place,  and  in 
a  proper  degree  of  vigor. 

VINEYARD    CULTURE. 

A  quarter  of  a  century  since,  taking  our  knowledge  of 
position,  soils,  etc.,  from  the  vineyards  of  Europe,  we  sup- 
posed that  hill-sides,  or  warm,  sheltered  positions  only, 
were  suited  to  the  culture  of  the  grape,  but  thanks  to  the 


THE     GRAPE.  283 

energy  and  spirit  of  trial  which  pervades  the  people  of 
this  country,  we  have  now  such  a  variety,  and  so  suited 
to  soils,  climates,  and  localities,  that  the  culture  of  the 
grape  may  be  said  to  be  adapted,  in  the  way  of  profitable 
culture,  to  nearly  every  variety  of  soil,  climate,  or  location. 

The  quantity  of  grapes  produced  as  an  item  of  profit 
per  acre,  depends  much  upon  soils,  location,  nearness  to 
market,  and  variety  grown.  The  statements  of  growers 
vary  greatly  in  the  amount,  all  the  way  from  one  and  a 
half  tons  to  five  and  six  tons  per  acre,  and  the  gross  re- 
ceipts are  given  all  the  way  from  three  hundred  to  eight 
hundred  dollars. 

Such  varieties  as  the  Concord,  Isabella,  etc.,  it  may  be 
safely  estimated,  will  produce  one  year  with  another  from 
two  to  three  tons,  and  the  Delaware,  Miles,  etc.,  from  one 
and  a  half  to  two  tons  per  acre.  Season's,  insects,  and 
diseases,  care  and  culture  will,  of  course,  vary  results,  and 
while  the  grower  may  one  season  obtain  four  tons  to  the 
acre,  the  same  vines  another  year  may  not  produce  over 
one  ton  of  fine,  marketable  fruit. 

It  should,  however,  be  remembered  that  while  certain 
varieties  of  the  grape  can  be  grown  in  varied  soils  and 
locations,  there  is  a  requisite  to  be  obtained  for  the  pro- 
duction of  the  richest  grapes  and  the  best  vines  ;  that 
requisite  being  in  the  sugar  contained  in  the  fruit,  and  only 
to  be  had  in  the  grape  when  planted  in  soil  and  location 
exactly  suited  to  its  best  development. 

The  grower  who  seeks  only  for  a  table  market,  has  first 
to  select  the  variety  to  meet  his  soil  and  location,  and 
then  to  grow  large  berries  and  bunches,  well  colored,  and 
just  sufficiently  matured  to  make  them  vinously  sweet. 
The  grower  for  wine  purposes  must  have  another  view — 
for  his  crop  value  depends  upon  the  full  maturation  of  the 
sugar  in  his  grapes. 

Soils  and  Situation. — Although  we  have  said  such  is 
the  variety  of  grapes  now  cultivated  that  some  one  may 


284  PRUNING. 

be  selected  for  nearly  every  soil  and  location,  yet  we  do 
not  thereby  desire  to  convey  the  idea  that  all  soils  and  lo- 
cations are  equally  adapted  to  the  grape.  Our  experience 
and  observation  have  taught  us  that  it  is  only  upon  a  com- 
paratively few  locations  and  soils  that  the  best  grapes  are 
produced.  A  high  elevation,  sloping  to  the  east  and 
south,  or,  if  a  large  lake  or  body  of  water  lie  on  the 
north,  then  a  gentle  slope  to  the  south,  as  along  the  south 
shore  of  Lake  Erie,  with  a  soil  of  clay  underlaid  with 
broken  shale  rock,  is,  perhaps,  the  best  of  all  soils  and  lo- 
cations. The  next  to  this  is  a  rolling  and  moderately  ele- 
vated position,  adjacent  to  some  large  body  of  water,  a 
stiff  clay,  with  an  underlay  of  shale  rock ;  next,  is  the 
same  location  with  a  clay  soil  resting  on  a  gravel  bed. 
The  next  is  a  good,  rich,  clayey  loam,  resting  upon  a  shale 
or  gravel  bed,  and  lying  nearly  level ;  and  the  last  we 
would  use  for  the  grape,  in  any  case,  is  a  light,  sandy 
loam,  resting  either  upon  a  compact  yellow  sand  or  a 
gravel.  This  last  will  produce  fine,  handsome  bunches, 
of  many  varieties,  but  the  durability  of  vines  in  such 
localities  is  doubtful. 

Shelter. — Shelter  is  not  indispensable  to  all  vineyards, 
but  many  localities  exposed  to  violent  winds  may  be 
benefited  materially  by  the  planting  of  groups  or  masses 
of  trees,  at  proper  distances,  on  the  side  from  whence 
come  the  strongest  winds.  Evergreens  ameliorate  the 
temperature  of  the  winds  better  than  deciduous  trees, 
but,  in  absence  of  them,  the  planting  of  Beech,  Maple, 
etc.,  will  assist  in  checking  the  liability  to  sudden 
changes,  and  protect  the  vines  and  fruit  from  the  effects 
of  the  high  wind,  which,  as  we  now  write,  October,  1871, 
has  done  much  damage  to  our  own  vineyard. 

Preparation  of  the  Soil. — The  first  preparation  of  the 
soil  is  an  important  item  in  the  forming  of  a  vineyard. 
The  vigor  and  healthiness  of  the  first  and  second  years' 
growth  of  the  vine  often  decide  their  future.  No  young 


THE     GRAPE.  285 

plants,  with  small  fibrous  roots,  can  be  made  to  grow 
rapidly  unless  the  soil  be  fine  and  rich.  This  applies  to  the 
grape-vine  ;  hence  the  necessity  of  making  the  soil  for  the 
planting  of  the  vineyard  deep  and  rich  at  the  outset.  If 
the  land  is  level  so  that  it  can  be  plowed,  then  plow  it  as 
deep  as  possible  with  the  common  plow,  and  follow  in 
the  furrow  with  a  subsoil  plow,  thus  loosening  the  ground 
to  a  depth  of  not  less  than  sixteen  to  twenty  inches,  the 
deeper  the  better.  Hill-sides  not  too  steep  may  be  pre- 
pared by  using  a  side-hill  plow,  and  in  plowing  leaving 
a  strip  of  three  or  four  feet  unplowed  at  distances  of 
from  eight  to  twenty  feet,  for  the  purpose  of  prevent- 
ing washing.  Very  steep  hill-sides  must  be  dug  with 
the  pick  and  spade.  If  the  ground  is  not  what  is  called 
in  good  heart,  but  has  been  cropped  yearly  without 
manure,  it  should  be  dressed  with  a  coat  of  ashes,  bone- 
dust,  or  well-rotted  barn-yard  manure,  and  worked  in  with 
the  harrow  or  cultivator. 

Time  to  Plant. — Where  the  soil  is  well  drained,  or  of  a 
light  sandy  or  loamy  character,  and  the  climate  not  too  se- 
vere, we  should  prefer  to  plant  in  the  fall.  In  such  case  we 
should  cover  the  entire  plant  with  an  inch  or  so  of  soil,  to 
be  removed  as  soon  as  the  frost  will  permit,  in  the  spring. 
The  advantages  of  planting  in  the  fall  are,  that  as  a  rule 
the  ground  works  better,  and  the  work  is  therefore  better 
done;  add  to  this  that  the  earth  becomes  well  settled 
among  the  roots  and  often  new  fibres  will  be  thrown  out, 
ready  for  growth  in  spring.  But  we  have  planted  at  all 
periods,  when  the  ground  would  work,  from  October  to 
June,  and,  if  our  plants  were  in  good  condition,  have  been 
successful. 

Kind  of  Plants. — Vines  one  or  two  years  old,  with 
well-ripened  tops  and  roots,  the  latter  one  quarter  of  an 
inch  in  diameter,  are  perhaps  the  best,  whether  grown 
from  single  or  triple-eyed  cuttings,  or  by  layers. 

Distance  to  Plant. — The   distance  apart   at  which  to 


286  PRUNING. 

plant  must  depend  upon  the  soil,  variety,  and  mode  of 
training,  separately  and  collectively.  Nearly  all  varieties 
have  a  tendency  to  make  more  wood  in  light,  sandy,  grav- 
elly, or  loamy  soils,  than  on  clays.  Strong,  rampant- 
growing  sorts,  as  the  Concord,  Ives',  Norton's  Virginia, 
Clinton,  etc.,  on  loamy  or  rich  soils,  should  have  at 
least  ten  or  twelve  feet  space  on  the  row,  and  the  rows 
eight  feet  apart.  If  the  ground  is  of  a  heavy  clay,  then 
the  distance  on  the  rows  may  be  reduced  two  feet.  For 
varieties  like  Catawba,  lona,  etc.,  eight  feet  apart  each 
way  is  about  right.  Delaware,  Walter,  and  other  short- 
jointed  varieties  may  be  planted  at  six  feet  in  the  rows, 
the  rows  eight  feet.  The  above,  if  the  training  is  to  be 
upon  trellis,  in  any  of  the  renewal  modes.  If  the  train- 
ing is  to  be  on  stakes,  in  the  serpentine  or  bow  system, 
then  the  distance  may  be  reduced  one  foot  each  way.  For 
very  long  pruning  and  training  on  trellis,  the  distance 
must  be  increased,  some  cultivators  planting  at  twelve 
feet,  with  the  vines  eighteen  feet  apart  in  the  row. 

Depth  to  Plant. — In  heavy  soils  the  upper  tier  of  roots 
should  always  have  at  least  four  to  five  inches  of  earth 
over  them,  and  in  light  or  dry  soils  six  to  eight  inches. 

Pruning — when  and  how. — For  the  annual  or  winter 
pruning  the  best  time  is  as  soon  as  the  wood  is  ripened  in 
the  fall,  but  the  work  may  be  done  any  time  until  the 
warmth  of  spring  starts  a  rapid  circulation  of  sap.  Never 
cut  close  to  a  bud,  but  leave  an  inch  or  two  of  wood  be- 
yond. For  summer  pruning,  see  Garden  Culture,  page 
276,  and  for  the  length  of  wood  left  at  the  winter  pruning, 
refer  to  the  method  of  training  that  it  is  proposed  to 
practise. 

Modes  of  Training. — Under  the  head  of  Garden  Cul- 
ture, we  have  described  several  modes  of  training  that 
are  sometimes  practised  in  the  vineyard,  to  which  the 
reader  is  referred.  In  Ohio  and  Missouri,  the  mode  gen- 
erally practised  is  called  the  renewal-cane  system,  and  con- 


THE    GRAPE.  287 

sists  in  yearly  cutting  away  all  the  wood  of  two  years 
old  or  more.  The  vine  is  taken,  say  at  the  close  of  the 
second  summer,  with,  as  supposed,  three  good  strong 
canes  grown  from  a  point  near  the  ground ;  two  of  these 
canes  are  cut  back  to  from  four  to  six  feet,  according  to 
the  strength  of  the  vine,  and  are  tied  to  the  lower  wire 
in  a  bowed  shape  (see  fig.  140),  while  the  third  cane  is 
cut  back  to  three  or  five  buds,  according  to  the  age  and 
vigor  of  the  vine.  The  long  bent  canes  are  for  fruiting, 
while  on  the  shoots  that  grow  from  the  centre  cane  all 
the  fruit  is  rubbed  off.  The  next  season  the  bearing  canes 


Fig.  140.— BOW  TRAINING. 

are  cut  away,  two  or  three  new  canes  are  laid  in  for  fruit, 
the  centre  cane  cut  back  as  before,  for  new  shoots,  and  so 
from  year  to  year  the  practice  repeated.  Some  vignerons 
practise  training  and  fruiting  by  leaving  very  long  canes, 
with  more  or  less  of  the  laterals,  these  latter  being  pruned 
to  one  or  two  buds,  from  which,  it  is  claimed,  some  of  the 
best  fruit  is  grown.  Such  varieties  as  the  Clinton,  Nor- 
ton's Virginia,  Concord,  etc.,  are  by  some  considered  best 
when  grown  in  this  way. 

Training  upon  stakes  is  a  practice  esteemed  by  many 
as  giving  better  circulation  of  air  among  the  vines.  Some 
use  two  stakes,  on  one  of  which  two  canes  of  the  previ- 


288 


PRUNING. 


ous  year's  growth  are  tied  spirally  (see  fig.  141),  and  on 
the  other  the  new  shoots  are  conducted  as  they  grow,  and 
tied  so  as  not  to  be  removed.  In  the  winter  pruning  these 
canes  are  shortened,  and  those  that 
bore  last  year  are  cut  down  for  the 
production  of  new  canes. 

Another  practice  is  to  use  three 
stakes,  on  the  centre  one  of  which 
the  new  shoots  are  grown,  and  on 
the  two  outside  ones  a  cane  is  train- 
ed for  fruiting.  Another  system 
of  training  on  stakes  is  to  cut  back 
the  vine  to  three  or  four  eyes  for 
fruiting,  and  two  or  so  for  new 
canes ;  the  whole,  then,  as  they 
grow,  are  trained  to  the  one  stake. 
This  practice  answers  for  some  weak 
growers,  or  for  those  with  sparse 
foliage,  but  is  not  advisable  with 
strong-growing,  vigorous  sorts. 

For  more  complete  details  of 
modes  of  grape-growing  and  prun- 
ing, we  refer  to  the  various  valuable  books  devoted  ex- 
clusively to  the  subject. 


Fig.   141.— SPIRAL   TRAIN- 
ING. 


CULTURE    OF   FOREIGN    GRAPES    IN    COLD    VINERIES. 


Repeated  experiments  made  during  many  years  in  all 
parts  of  the  country,  have  convinced  people  generally  that 
the  delicious  varieties  of  the  foreign  grape  cannot  be  pro- 
duced with  any  considerable  degree  of  success  in  the  open 
air.  A  large  number  of  the  hardiest  French  and  German 
sorts  have  been  tested  in  our  ground,  but  not  one  of  them 
has  borne  satisfactorily.  A  few  good  bunches  have  been 
obtained  the  first  season  or  two  under  very  favorable  cir- 


THE     GKAPE.  289 

cumstances ;  but  after  that  the  failure  is  complete.  This 
has  rendered  glass,  heat,  and  shelter  necessary. 

The  Buildings. — These  are  constructed  of  all  sizes 
and  at  various  degrees  of  expense.  Some  have  single 
lean-to  roofs ;  others  have  double  or  span  roofs.  The 
walls  of  some  are  built  of  brick  or  stone ;  others  are 
wholly  of  wood.  The  cheapest  and  simplest  structure 
of  this  kind  is  the  lean-to.  The  back  may  be  nine  or 
ten  feet  high,  composed  of  strong  cedar  posts  six  feet 
apart,  and  boarded  up  on  both  sides.  The  ends  are 
made  in  the  same  manner.  The  front  may  be  two  or 
three  feet  high,  made  of  posts,  and  boards  or  planks,  same 
as  the  back.  Sills  or  plates  are  put  on  the  front  and  back 
walls,  and  then  rafters  at  three  and  a  half  to  four  feet 
apart.  The  sashes  slip  in  between  the  rafters,  and  rest  on 
a  strip  of  wood  on  their  sides.  Unless  the  grapery  be 
very  small,  the  sash  should  be  in  two  parts,  the  lower  one 
twice  as  long  as  the  upper,  and  fixed ;  the  upper  to  slide 
down  over  the  under  one  on  pulleys,  to  ventilate  the  house. 
Doors  are  in  each  end  at  the  back,  and  means  are  provided 
for  admitting  air  in  front  by  the  opening  of  boards  like 
shutters. 

But  a  cheap  structure  is  not  the  best  economy,  and  while 
such  may  be  admissible,  on  a  merely  commercial  place,  it 
would  be  out  of  character  in  any  neatly  kept  grounds. 
The  maxim,  that  "  whatever  is  worth  doing  is  worth 
doing  well,"  holds  good  in  the  construction  of  a  grapery, 
and  therefore,  however  plain  the  architecture  of  the  de- 
sign, the  materials  should  be  of -the  best,  the  arrangement 
convenient,  and  the  putting  together  done  in  a  workman- 
like manner. 

Lean-to  or  single-roof  houses  may  frequently  be  built 
against  the  south  or  east  side  of  a  wall  or  out-building, 
and  thus  can  be  constructed  cheaply,  but  a  span-roofed 
house  is  much  the  best. 

Fig.  142  gives  a  good  representation  of  a  single-roof 
13 


290 


THE    GKAPE. 


house  against  a  wall,  and  fig.  143  represents  a  span  cur- 
vilinear -  roofed 
house,  20  x  30 
feet,  which  we 
have  built  upon 
our  own  grounds 
and  found  very 
successful. 

Fig.  144  is  a 
representation  of 
a  straight  -  roof 
house,  for  cold 
grapery,  taken 
from  Woood- 
ward's  Graperies. 

Position  of 
House. — A  south 
or  south  -  east 
fronting  is  the 
best  for  a  lean-to 
house,  and  for 
span  roofs  a  north 
and  south  line  af- 
fords the  most 
equal  amount  of 
sunlight. 

The  border  is 
made  for  the 
vines  outside  the 
front  wall,  or  part 
outside  and  part 
in,  twelve  to  six- 
teen feet  wide, 
also  two  or  three 
deep.  This  is 
done  by  digging  a  trench  or  pit  the  length  and  width; 


THE    GKAPE. 


291 


draining  it  thoroughly,  that  not  a  drop  of  water  can  lodge 
about  it.  Then  lay  a  few  inches  of  small  stones,  broken 
bricks,  shells,  etc.,  in  the  bottom  for  drainage ;  and  fill  up 
the  remainder,  six  inches  to  two  feet  above  the  level  of 
the  ground,  and  sloping  outwards,  with  a  good  compost, 
of  three-fourths  surface  loam  (turf  from  an  old  pasture), 
and  the  other  of  well-rotted  stable  manure.  All  these 
must  be  prepared  by  frequent  turning  and  mixing  a  few 
months  beforehand. 

The  vines  may  be  one  or  two  years  old,  and  are  prefer- 


.   143.—  SPAN  CURVILINEAR-ROOFED  HOUSE. 


able  raised  in  pots  from  single  eyes.  They  should  be 
planted  in  the  spring.  A  plant  is  placed  under  each  rafter 
outside,  or  inside,  and  carried  through  under  the  wall 
into  the  house.  The  stem  is  cut  back  to  two  or  three 
eyes,  and  when  these  break  the  strongest  shoot  is  selected, 
and  the  others  pinched  off.  This  shoot  is  trained,  as  it 
grows,  to  a  light  trellis  of  iron,  or  thick  wire  rods  attached 
to  the  rafter,  and  twelve  to  fifteen  inches  from  the  glass. 
If  all  goes  well,  it  reaches  the  top  of  the  house  that  sea- 
son. In  September  the  top  may  be  pinched  to  check  the 
flow  of  sap,  and  throw  it  more  into  the  lateral  buds  to 
increase  their  strength.  During  the  summer  no  other 
shoot  is  allowed  to  grow  but  this. 


292 


THE    GRAPE. 


Pruning.— In.  November  or  December  it  is  taken  down, 
pruned,  if  according  to   the  spur  system,  which   is  the 

simplest,      to      within 
three  or  four    feet   of 
its   base,  laid   on   the 
ground,    and    covered 
with  leaves,  evergreen 
^  boughs,  or  mats.  There 
"|    it  remains  till  the  buds 
H    begin  to  swell  in  the 
J    spring,     when     it     is 
again  fastened  to  the 
trellis.  The  shoot  from 
the  terminal  bud  con- 
tinues the  cane,  and  no 
fruit  is  allowed  on  it. 
Those    below   it    pro- 
duce    lateral     shoots, 
from  each  of  which  a 
bunch  of  grapes  may 
be  taken,  and  each  of 
these  must  be  stopped 
at    three    eyes   above 
the  bunch  ;  and  this  is 
repeated    as  often    as 
necessary,  to  give  the 
fruit  the  whole  benefit 
of  the  sap.     The  lead- 
ing    shoot     is     again 
stopped  in  September 
by    pinching    off    its 
point,  to  increase  the 
vigor     of    its     lateral 
buds.       In     the    fall, 
when  the  leaves  have  dropped,  the  vine  is  again  taken 
down.      The  leader  is  pruned  back   to  within   three  to 


THE    GRAPE.  293 

four  feet  of  the  old  wood.  The  laterals  that  have  borne 
are  pruned  to  three  eyes,  and  it  is  then  covered  up.  This 
is  the  routine  of  spur  training.  In  long  cane  pruning,  the 
young  shoot,  after  the  first  season's  growth,  is  cut  back  to 
three  eyes,  and  the  next  season  two  shoots  are  trained  up. 
The  next  season  the  strongest  is  selected  for  fruit,  and 
pruned  to  about  three  feet ;  each  of  the  eyes  left  will  pro- 
duce a  fruit  shoot,  from  which  one  bunch  only  will  be 
taken.  The  weaker  cane  is  cut  back  to  one  eye,  and  this 
produces  a  shoot  for  next  year's  bearing,  and  so  this  goes 
on.  When  the  vine  becomes  strong,  several  bearing  canes 
may  be  provided  for  every  season.  This  renewal  or  long 
cane  is  very  simple,  and  requires  much  less  cutting  than 
the  spur.  It  also  produces  a  superior  quality  of  fruit,  but 
in  general  not  so  large  a  quantity. 

Thinning  the  Fruit. — When  the  fruit  attains  the  size 
of  a  garden  pea,  one  third  of  the  smaller  ones  should  be 
cut  out  carefully  with  pointed  scissors  (see  implements) 
that  are  prepared  for  this  purpose.  The  object  of  this  is, 
to  allow  the  fruits  to  swell  out  to  their  full  size.  Varieties 
that  produce  very  compact  bunches  require  more  severe 
thinning  than  those  of  a  loose,  open  bunch. 

Cleaning  the  Vine. — At  the  time  the  vines  are  taken 
from  their  winter  quarters  and  trellised,  they  should  be 
well  washed  with  a  solution  of  soft  soap  and  tobacco- 
water,  to  kill  all  eggs  of  insects,  and  remove  all  loose 
bark  and  filth  that  may  have  accumulated  on  them  during 
the  season  previous.  The  house,  too,  should  be  cleaned 
and  renovated  at  the  same  time. 

Syringing  the  Vines  and  the  Fruit. — Every  one  who 
has  a  grapery  must  be  provided  with  a  good  hand-syringe, 
for  this  is  necessary  during  the  whole  season.  As  soon  as 
they  begin  to  grow,  they  should  be  occasionally  syringed 
in  the  morning,  except  while  they  are  in  bloom.  After 
the  fruit  has  set,  they  should  be  syringed  every  evening, 
and  the  house  kept  closed  until  the  next  forenoon  when 


294  ORCHARD    HOUSES. 

the  sun  is  out  warm.  The  inside  border  should  receive 
frequent  and  ample  supplies  of  water.  In  a  dry  time  the 
outside  border  should  also  be  freely  watered. 

Regulating  the  Temperature. — When  the  temperature 
exceeds  ninety  to  one  hundred  degrees,  air  should  be  ad- 
mitted at  the  top,  and,  if  necessary,  at  the  bottom.  The 
admission  of  abundance  of  air  is  one  of  the  important 
features  of  the  management  of  the  grapery. 

To  Prevent  Mildew. — This  may  be  looked  for  in  July. 
Syringing  freely  night  and  morning,  and  the  admission  of 
air  during  the  warmest  hours  of  the  day,  are  the  best  pre- 
ventives of  this  disease.  Dust  sulphur  on  the  floor,  at  the 
rate  of  one  pound  for  every  twenty  square  feet ;  and  if  the 
mildew  continues  to  increase,  syringe  the  vines  in  the  even- 
ing, and  dust  the  foliage  with  sulphur. 

This  is  but  an  imperfect  outline  of  the  management  of 
a  cold  grapery.  Those  who  wish  full  information  on  all 
points  of  the  subject,  should  consult  some  of  the  special 
treatises  on  the  culture  of  the  grape  under  glass. 

ORCHARD    HOUSES. 

The  advantages  of  glass  structures  for  the  growing  of 
all  varieties  of  fruits  are  but  yet  little  appreciated.  By 
means  of  the  orchard  house,  peaches,  apricots,  and  indeed 
all  varieties  of  fruits  may  be  grown  without  fear  of  insects 
or  frost. 

By  it  the  owner  of  a  small  garden  or  city  lot  can  secure 
to  himself  a  large  amount  of  fruit  grown  in  a  small  space, 
and  at  a  time  when  it  cannot  be  purchased. 

To  the  commercial  fruit-grower  the  orchard  house  of- 
fers pecuniary  profit  from  the  sale  of  fruit ;  and  to  the 
nurseryman  it  is  becoming  yearly  more  and  more  a  neces- 
sity, toward  testing  the  correctness  of  new  varieties  from 
which  to  propagate. 

The  construction  of  an  orchard  house  is  similar  to  that 


ORCHARD    HOUSES.  295 

of  a  grapery,  except  that  it  should  be  higher  at  the  sides, 
with  the  roof  more  flattened,  in  order  that  the  trees  may 
be  brought  as  near  the  glass  as  possible.  Ventilation  is 
an  important  item,  as  too  groat  heat,  or  a  confined  atmos- 
phere, are  incompatible  with  success.  A  span-roof  house 
should  have  ventilators  all  along  the  bottom  and  top,  and 
lean-to  houses  require  even  more  openings  than  span-roofs. 

Mr.  Rivers,  of  England,  who  first  set  in  motion  the  art 
of  fruiting  trees  in  the  house,  built  his  first  houses  like 
sheds,  or  what  is  termed  lean-to,  and.  so  far  the  most  of 
the  structures  erected  in  this  country  for  this  purpose 
have  been  of  that  style.  The  house  of  Mr.  Pullen,  in 
New  Jersey,  which  has  proved  a  commercial  success,  is 
fourteen  feet  wide  and  one  hun- 
dred feet  long.  The  house  of 
Mr.  Lovering  is  the  same  width, 
with  the  back  wall  twelve  feet 
and  the  front  wall  four  feet 
high.  Fig.  145  is  an  end  view, 
taken  from  Dr.  Norris'  work  on 
"  Fruit  Trees  in  Pots,"  in  which 
the  interior  arrangement  is 
given  as  follows:  "The  fruit 
border  (three  feet  six  inches 
wide)  is  raised  nine  incl.es  above  rlg'  145-E™  VIEW  OTHOCSE' 
the  walk  (which  is  two  feet  six  inches  wide) ;  the  first 
back  border  is  three  feet  wide  and  raised  sixteen  inches 
above  the  walk.  The  second  back  border  is  raised  one 
foot  above  the  front  one  and  is  four  feet  wide." 

In  "  Peach  Culture,"  by  J.  A.  Fulton,  a  lean-to  house, 
twelve  feet  wide  by  fifty  feet  long,  is  described,  with  the 
back  wall  fourteen  feet  high  and  the  front  four  feet  (see 
fig.  146).  In  this  house  it  will  be  seen  that  the  lower  range 
of  sash  is  hung  on  hinges  to  a  plate  securing  the  lower 
ends  of  the  upper  sash,  and  no  other  ventilation  is  sup- 
plied, except  by  the  opening  of  doors.  It  is  designed,  in 


296 


OKCHAKD    HOUSES. 


this  house,  to  grow  the  plants  in  the  ground,  not  in  pots 
or  tubs — a  practice  which  we,  from  our  own  experience, 
cannot  recommend. 

Some  years  since  we  built  upon  our  own  grounds  a  span- 
roof  house,  twenty-five  by  seventy  feet,  which  we  have 
used  very  successfully  (fig.  147).  The  interior  arrange- 
ment is  with  border  along  the  sides,  a  walk  three  feet  wide 


F.j;.  146. — PEAGH-HOUSE  (from  Fultorfs  Peach  Culture). 

all  around,  and  a  bed  in  center,  the  beds  or  tables  all  on 
the  same  level. 

The  advantages  of  a  span-roof  house  over  a  lean-to,  by 
the  greater  and  more  equable  diffusion  of  light,  and  the 
more  tasteful  appearance  which  can  be  made  both  out- 
side and  inside,  point  to  it  as  the  most  desirable. 

Fig.  148  shows  a  section  of  a  movable  house  on  iron 
supports,  the  house  fourteen  feet  wide  and  constructed 
of  length  as  desired.  These  houses  are  built  in  England 
— our  sketch  is  from  Pearson — but  we  do  not  know  of  any 
in  this  country. 

Although  the  first  growing  by  Mr.  Rivers  was  of  trees 
in  a  house  free  from  artificial  heat,  yet  he  has  found  the 
advantage  of  heating,  and  it  is  proved  that  with  us  a 


ORCHARD    HOUSES. 


297 


certain  amount  of  artificial  heat  is  necessary,  in  order  to 
get  the  fruit  much  in  advance  of  what  it  would  be  out 
of  doors. 

Varieties  of  Trees. — The  peach,  nectarine,  apricot,  plum, 
and  cherry  are  the  fruits  for  which  the  orchard-house  may 
be  said  to  have  been  specially  designed,  and  if  the  house 
be  small,  they  alone  should  occupy  it.  Large  houses  will, 
of  course,  give  room  for  the  pear  and  apple,  for  the  fig, 
orange,  etc. 

It  is  not   absolutely   necessary   that   the   varieties   be 


Fig.  147. — SPAN-ROOF  ORCHARD-HOUSE. 

worked  on  stocks  as  dwarfs,  but  when  such  can  be  had, 
the  peach  and  nectarine  on  the  plum,  and  the  cherry  on 
the  mahaleb,  will  be  found  to  assist  toward  early  maturity, 
and  the  compressed  artificial  growth  which  the  restricted 
limits  of  this  mode  of  culture  command. 

Trees  in  Tubs  or  Pots. — The  first  orchard-house  grow- 
ing of  trees  was  in  pots,  but  we  have  found  in  practice 
that  boxes  of  about  fifteen  inches  diameter  at  top,  ten 
inches  at  bottom,  and  twenty  inches  deep,  with  the  bot- 
tom board  set  an  inch  or  more  above  the  side  pieces  (see 
fig.  149),  and  with  holes  for  drainage,  gave  us  better  stow- 
age when  we  desired  to  pack  away  the  trees  for  winter, 
and  were  also  less  liable  to  accident  and  injury,  which 
sometimes  occur  from  breaking  of  pots.  It  has  been 
asserted  that  the  porous  nature  of  the  pots  was  an  advan- 
tage, but  we  found  success  in  the  boxes,  as  do  hundreds  of 
13* 


298 


ORCHAED    HOUSES. 


others  who  for  years  grow  oleanders,  figs,  oranges,  etc., 
in  tubs.  One-year-old  trees  from  the  nursery  are  the  best 
with  which  to  commence. 

Management. — The  young  tree  being  potted,  using  good, 
fresh  turf  loam  two  parts,  and  one  part  well-decomposed 
manure,  cut  it  back  to  about  one  foot,  and  if  there  are 
any  side  branches  grown,  cut  them  back  to  one  or  two 
buds.  The  first  season  the  tree  may  be  grown  in  the  open 
air,  the  pots  or  boxes  plunged  in  the  ground.  As  the 


Fig1.    148. — SECTION  OF   MOVABLE  HOUSE  ON  IRON  SUPPORTS. 

young  shoots  grow,  the  side  branches  should  be  stopped 
when  they  have  made  a  foot  or  so  of  growth.  Watering 
must  be  attended  to  during  the  heat  of  summer,  but  as 
autumn  approaches  it  should  be  graduated,  in  order  .to 
have  the  wood  ripen  off  finely. 

In  autumn,  as  soon  as  the  wood  is  well  ripened,  or  on 
approach  of  cold  weather,  the  trees  should  be  removed 
to  the  house,  the  boxes  plunged  in  soil,  and  the  whole 
covered  with  mats  or  straw.  If  the  house  is  not  ready, 
the  trees  may  be  stacked  on  their  sides  in  a  shed,  and  pro- 
tected by  having  straw  or  leaves  packed  in,  among,  around, 
and  over  them. 

We  have  found  this  practice  quite  successful  and  much 
superior  to  that  of  a  cellar. 


ORCHARD    HOUSES. 


299 


If  fire  heat  is  to  be  used,  it  should  be  started  sometime 
in  January,  and  the  temperature  by  day  kept  at  from  80° 
to  90°,  sinking  at  night  to  from  40°  to  50°.  If  the  fruit 
is  to  be  obtained  by  means 
only  of  the  protection  and 
heat  of  the  glass,  then  the 
trees  should  remain  covered 
until  all  risk  of  severe  frosts 
has  passed.  As  the  season 
advances  the  heat  will,  of 
course,  be  increased.  Great 
care  should  be  given  to  the 
watering,  keeping  the  trees 
always  moist,  but  never  wet, 
and  also  to  ventilation.  The 
spring  or  winter  pruning  is 
best  done  just  as  the  trees 
come  into  bloom,  but  if  the 
summer  pinching  is  attend- 
ed to  there  will  be  little  or 
no  occasion  for  any  winter 
pruning. 

The  introduction  of  bees 
into  the  house  at  blooming 
time  will  assist  greatly  in  fer- 
tilization. In  their  absence 
the  tree  should  be  occasion- 
ally jarred  by  a  slight  blow 

from  the  hand.  As  the  period  of  ripening  approaches,  or 
as  soon  as  they  begin  to  show  color,  the  trees  should  be 
removed  to  a  warm,  sheltered  spot  in  the  open  air,  and 
the  boxes  plunged  in  the  ground.  During  the  season,  or 
until  the  tubs  are  removed  to  the  open  air,  for  ripening 
the  fruit,  they  should  be  lifted  and  turned  every  ten  days 
to  check  the  growth  of  outside  roots.  Watering  with 
liquid  manure  assists  in  giving  vigor  to  the  tree,  and  size 


149 TREE   GROWN   IN   BOX. 


300 


ORCHARD    HOUSES. 


to  the  fruit.  The  aphis  and  red  spider  are  best  kept  in 
check  by  fumigating  with  tobacco. 

Propagating  Houses. — Small  glass  houses  for  the  pur- 
pose of  propagating  rare  plants,  keeping  plants  in  winter, 
or  starting  them  forward  in  the  spring,  may  be  built  very 
cheaply,  and,  attached  to  any  considerable  garden,  may  be 
made  both  profitable  and  pleasantly  useful. 

The  span-roof  house  costs  really  but  a  trifle  more  than 


o  o 

0  o 

Fig.    150. — SECTION   OF   PROPAGATIXG-HOU3E. 

a  lean-to,  when  the  surface  covered  is  estimated,  and  it  is 
so  much  more  ornamental,  so  much  easier  managed,  and 
the  opportunity  to  give  plants  the  position  and  light  re- 
quired, is  so  much  greater,  that  we  wonder  it  is  not  more 
generally  adopted. 

It  is  not  always  possible  to  select  a  location  in  just  the 
best  place,  but  when  this  can  be  done  the  ends  of  the 
house  should  be  north  and  south,  and  it  should  be  where 
perfect  drainage  may  be  had,  after  having  excavated  three 
feet  deep,  for  the  purpose  of  sinking  the  side  walls  be- 
low the  level  of  the  ground,  and  thereby  reducing  the  ex- 
pense of  heating.  Twelve  feet  is  a  good  width,  while 
the  length  may  be  regulated  to  suit  the  proprietor's  wants. 


THE    PILBEBT.  301 

Heating  with  hot  water  is  unquestionably  best,  but 
many  good  houses  are  now,  and  will  continue  to  be, 
warmed  by  means  of  brick  flues,  or,  what  is  perhaps 
better  and  cheaper,  by  sections  of  stone  pipe. 

A  series  of  connected  houses,  that  we  have  built,  are 
twelve  feet  wide  and  eighty  feet  long,  and  we  know  of 
nothing  better,  for  a  single  house,  than  one  of  these  by 
itself  (fig.  150).  In  this  the  sashes  are  fixed  permanently  to 
the  ridge-pole  and  plate,  and  ventilation  obtained  by  cutting 
away  the  sash-bars  at  top,  at  distances  of  ten  feet,  and 
forming  a  frame  to  be  hung  on  hinges.  Movable  sash- 
bars  or  frames  are  by  some  preferred,  and  where  there  is 
any  other  use  for  them  than  as  applied  to  the  house 
proper,  they  are  probably  best. 

Bottom  heat  is  obtained  when  the  house  is  heated  by 
flues  or  pipes,  by  simply  inclosing  the  space  along  one 
side,  below  the  bench,  with  boarding,  leaving  the  upper 
board  hung  on  hinges,  so  that  the  heat  may  be  let  into 
the  house  as  required. 

Tanks  of  hot  water  as  the  base  for  forming  bottom- 
heat  are  also  used,  and  when  great  care  is  practised  they 
are  of  the  best ;  but  there  is  a  liability  to  dampness  in 
houses  so  heated,  and  in  extreme  cold  weather  it  is  diffi- 
cult to  get  heat  in  the  main  part  of  the  house  without  too 
much  for  the  plants. 

SECTION  0. — PRUNING  AND  THAUTING  THE  FILBEET. 

The  filbert  in  this  country  is  a  neglected  fruit.  It  is 
seldom  found  in  the  garden,  and  more  rarely  still  in  a  pro- 
lific, well-grown  condition.  Of  all  other  trees,  it  requires 
regular  and  proper  pruning  to  maintain  its  fruitful  ness. 
The  blossoms  are  monoecious — that  is,  the  male  organs, 
which  are  in  long  catkins  (fig.  37),  are  produced  from  one 
bud,  and  the  female  flowers  from  another. 

The  blossom  or  fruit  buds  are  produced  on  shoots  of 


302  THE    FILBERT. 

one  year's  growth,  and  bear  fruit  the  next.  The  fruit  is 
borne  in  a  cluster  on  the  end  of  a  small  twig  produced 
from  the  bud  bearing  the  female  organs. 

It  is  said  that  in  the  neighborhood  of  Maidstone,  county 
of  Kent,  England,  the  filbert  orchards  occupy  several 
hundred  acres,  and  from  these  the  principal  supply  of 
the  London  market  is  obtained.  One  acre  has  been  known 
to  produce  £50  sterling,  or  $250  worth,  in  one  season. 
The  pruning  of  these  Kent  growers  is  supposed  to  bo 
most  perfect  of  its  kind,  especially  for  their  soil  and  cli- 
mate. It  is  described  as  follows  in  the  "  Transactions  of 
the  London  Horticultural  Society  : " 

"  The  suckers  are  taken  from  the  parent  plant  generally 
in  the  autumn,  and  planted  in  nursery  beds  (being  first  . 
shortened  to  ten  or  twelve  inches),  where  they  remain 
three  or  four  years.  They  are  slightly  pruned  every  year, 
in  order  to  form  strong  lateral  shoots,  the  number  of 
which  varies  from  four  to  six.  But  though  it  is  the  usual 
practice  to  plant  the  suckers  in  nursery  beds,  I  would  ad- 
vise every  one  to  plant  them  where  they  are  to  remain, 
whether  they  are  intended  for  a  garden  or  a  larger  planta- 
tion ;  and  after  being  suffered  to  grow  without  restraint 
for  three  or  four  years,  to  cut  them  down  within  a  few 
inches  of  the  ground.  From  the  remaining  part,  if  the 
trees  are  well  rooted  in  the  soil,  five  or  six  strong  shoots 
will  be  produced.  Whichever  method  is  practised,  the 
subsequent  treatment  of  the  trees  will  be  exactly  the 
same. 

"  In  the  second  year  after  cutting  down,  these  shoots 
are  shortened  ;  generally  one  third  is  taken  off.  If  very 
weak,  I  would  advise  that  the  trees  be  cut  quite  down  a 
second  time,  as  in  the  previous  spring ;  but  it  would  be 
much  better  not  to  cut  them  down  until  the  trees  give 
evident  tokens  of  their  being  able  to  produce  shoots 
of  sufficient  strength.  When  they  are  thus  shortened, 
that  they  may  appear  regular,  let  a  small  hoop  be  placed 


THE    FILBERT.  303 

within  the  branches,  to  which  the  shoots  are  to  be  fas- 
tened at  equal  distances.  By  this  practice  two  consider- 
able advantages  will  be  gained — the  trees  will  grow  more 
regular,  and  the  middle  will  be  kept  hollow,  so  as  to  ad- 
mit the  influence  of  the  sun  and  air. 

"  In  the  third  year  a  shoot  will  spring  from  each  bud ; 
these  must  be  suffered  to  grow  until  the  following  autumn, 
or  fourth  year,  when  they  are  to  be  cut  off  nearly  close 
to  the  original  stem,  and  the  leading  shoot  of  the  last  year 
shortened  two-thirds. 

"  In  the  fifth  year  several  small  shoots  will  arise  from 
the  bases  of  the  side  branches  which  were  cut  off  the  pre- 
ceding year.  These  are  produced  from  small  buds,  send 
would  not  have  been  emitted  had  not  the  branch  on  which 
they  are  situated  been  shortened,  the  whole  nourishment 
being  carried  to  the  upper  part  of  the  branch.  It  is  from 
these  shoots  that  fruit  is  to  be  expected.  These  produc- 
tive shoots  will  in  a  few  years  become  very  numerous, 
and  many  of  them  must  be  taken  off,  particularly  the 
strongest,  in  order  to  encourage  the  production  of  the 
smaller  ones,  for  those  of  the  former  year  become  so  ex- 
hausted that  they  generally  decay ;  but  whether  decayed 
or  not,  they  are  always  cut  out  by  the  pruner,  and  a  fresh 
supply  must  therefore  be  provided  to  produce  the  fruit  in 
the  succeeding  year.  The  leading  shoot  is  every  year  to 
be  shortened  two-thirds,  or  more  should  the  tree  be  weak, 
and  the  whole  hight  of  the  branches  must  not  exceed 
six  feet. 

"  The  method  of  pruning  above  detailed  might,  in  a  few 
words,  be  called  a  method  of  spurring,  by  which  bearing 
shoots  are  produced,  which  otherwise  would  have  had  no 
existence.  Old  trees  are  easily  induced  to  bear  in  this 
manner,  by  selecting  a  sufficient  number  of  the  main 
branches,  and  then  cutting  the  side  shoots  off,  nearly  close, 
excepting  any  should  be  so  situated  as  not  to  interfere 
with  the  others,  and  there  should  be  no  main  branch  di- 


304  THE    FILBERT. 

rected  to  that  particular  part.  It  will,  however,  be  two 
or  three  years  before  the  full  effect  will  be  produced.  By 
the  above  method  of  pruning,  thirty  hundred  per  acre 
have  been  grown  in  particular  grounds  and  in  particular 
years,  yet  twenty  hundred  is  considered  a  large  crop,  and 
rather  more  than  half  that  quantity  maybe  called  a  more 
usual  one ;  and  even  then  the  crop  totally  fails  three  years 
out  of  five ;  so  that  the  annual  average  quantity  cannot 
be  reckoned  at  more  than  five  hundred  per  acre. 

"  When  I  reflected  upon  the  reason  of  failure  happening 
so  often  as  three  years  out  of  five,  it  occurred  to  me  that 
possibly  it  might  arise  from  the  excessive  productiveness  of 
the  other  two.  In  order  to  insure  fruit  every  year,  I  have 
usually  left  a  large  proportion  of  those  shoots  which,  from 
their  strength,  I  suspected  would  not  be  so  productive  of 
blossom-buds  as  the  shorter  ones ;  leaving  them  more  in 
a  state  of  nature  than  is  usually  done,  not  pruning  them 
so  closely  as  to  weaken  the  trees  by  excessive  bearing, 
nor  leaving  them  so  entirely  to  their  natural  growth  as  to 
cause  their  annual  productiveness  to  be  destroyed  by  a 
superfluity  of  wood.  These  shoots,  in  the  spring  of  the 
year,  I  have  usually  shortened  to  a  blossom-bud." 

Such  is  the  management  of  these  celebrated  filbert 
growers,  their  principal  object  being  to  keep  the  trees 
small,  open  in  the  center,  and  covered  in  every  part  with 
fruit  spurs.  A  similar  system,  but  less  severe  in  the  cut- 
ting back,  may  be  pursued  here ;  some  such  course  of 
treatment  as  recommended  for  the  head  of  the  quince  as 
to  form  and  fruitfulness. 

Instead  of  relying  on  the  spring  pruning  to  subdue 
vigor  and  induce  fruitfulness,  pinching  should  be  practised 
during  the  summer;  for  this  not  only  checks  the  produc- 
tion of  wood,  but  of  roots.  Root  pruning,  too,  may  be 
safely  practised  in  August,  when  pruning  and  pinching  of 
the  branches  prove  insufficient. 

In  all  cases,   suckers   must   be    completely   eradicated 


»  THE    FIG.  305 

every  season,  or  as  soon  as  they  make  their  appearance. 
The  want  of  pruning,  and  the  growth  of  suckers,  make 
the  filbert  in  nearly  all  our  gardens  completely  barren  ;  a 
rank  production  of  wood  only  is  obtained  year  after  year. 
We  find  that  grafting  the  finer  kinds  on  stocks  of  the 
common  filbert  raised  from  seed,  renders  the  trees  much 
more  prolific  naturally,  and  also  smaller  in  size.  We  have 
trees  here  now  bearing  only  three  years  from  the  graft ; 
the  stems  are  eighteen  inches  to  two  feet  high,  and  they 
are  very  pretty.  Their  natural  vigor  is  greatly  subdued 
by  the  graft.  The  French  conduct  them  in  pyramids  with 
great  success,  on  the  same  principle  as  other  trees. 

SECTION    10. — CULTURE,    PRUNING,   AND    TRAINING    OF 
THE  FIG. 

In  the  Northern  States  the  fig  is  cultivated  with  very 
little  success  in  the  open  ground,  but  fine  crops  are  pro- 
duced in  the  vineries  recommended  for  foreign  grapes ; 
and  it  is  in  these  only  that  its  culture  can  yield  any  con- 
siderable degree  of  satisfaction,  north  of  Maryland  at 
least. 

Propagation. — The  surest  and  best  mode  is  by  layers. 
A  large  branch  may  be  layered  in  the  spring,  and  will  be 
sufficiently  rooted  in  the  fall  to  be  planted  out.  Cuttings 
also  strike  freely,  and  make  good  plants  in  one  season. 
All  the  modes  of  propagation  recommended  for  the  quince, 
may  be  applied  to  the  fig.  Cuttings  are  generally  pre- 
ferred in  the  South. 

Soil. — It  succeeds  in  any  good,  rich,  warm  garden  soil, 
suitable  for  other  fruit  trees.  In  very  light  or  dry  soils 
the  fruits  fall  before  maturity,  as  they  require  at  that 
season  in  particular  a  large  amount  of  moisture ;  but  it  is 
better  that  it  be  too  dry  than  too  moist,  for  in  the  latter 
case  nothing  but  soft  unripe  and  unfruitful  shoots  are  ob- 
tained, whilst  in  the  former,  moisture  can  be  supplied  at 


306  THE    PIG. 

the  time  when  it  may  be  required.  The  wood  should  be 
short-jointed,  the  buds  not  more  than  one-fourth  an  inch 
apart.  In  England  dry  chalky  soils  produce  the  finest 
crops. 

Pruning. — The  fig  is  somewhat  peculiar  in  its  mode  of 
bearing.  iSTo  blossoms  appear,  but  the  figs  are  produced 
on  the  stem,  appearing  at  first  like  buds.  The  young 
shoots  of  last  season  bear  fruit  the  next ;  and  the  shoots 
produced  during  first  growth  produce  fruit  the  same  season, 
and  this  is  called  the  "  second  crop."  These  never  ripen, 
and  should  never  be  encouraged  where  the  plants  require 
protection.  In  warm  climates,  as  in  some  of  our  South- 
ern States,  these  two  crops  ripen  perfectly,  though  the 
first  from  the  previous  season's  wood  is  larger  and  better. 

This  mode  of  bearing  shows  that  little  pruning  is  neces- 
sary, beyond  the  cutting  away  of  old  or  worn-out  branch- 
es, and  thinning  and  regulating  others.  Unfruitful  trees, 
in  a  moist  and  rich  ground,  should  be  pinched  in  summer 
to  check  their  growth,  and  concentrate  the  sap  more  in 
the  lateral  buds.  Root-pruning,  too,  may  be  applied  as 
on  other  trees.  Mr.  Downing  recommends  this  in  his 
"Fruits  and  Fruit  Trees." 

Training. — Wherever  the  trees  are  hardy  enough  to 
withstand  the  winter  without  protection,  as  in  the  South- 
ern States  or  California,  they  may  be  grown  in  the  form 
of  low  standards,  as  recommended  for  the  peach ;  but 
when  protection  is  required,  where  the  branches  have  to 
be  laid  down  and  covered  during  winter,  they  must  be 
grown  in  stools  or  bushes,  with  a  dozen  or  more  stems 
rising  from  the  socket.  These  are  easily  laid  down  and 
covered,  and  easily  brought  up  to  their  places  again,  in 
the  way  that  raspberry  canes  are  managed.  To  produce 
this  form,  the  young  tree  is  planted  in  the  bottom  of  a 
trench  about  a  third  deeper  than  in  ordinary  cases,  and  a 
basin  is  left  around  it.  At  the  end  of  the  first  season's 
growth,  it  is  cut  back  to  a  few  inches  of  the  base ;  there 


THE    GOOSEBERRY.  307 

a  number  of  shoots  are  produced.  As  these  grow  up  the 
earth  is  drawn  in  around  them,  to  favor  the  production 
of  other  shoots  at  their  base ;  and  in  this  way  it  is  man- 
aged until  the  requisite  number  of  branches  is  obtained. 

Protection. — Trained  in  this  way,  a  trench  is  opened 
for  each  branch,  or  three  or  four  maybe  put  in  one  trench, 
if  convenient ;  they  are  fastened  down  with  hooked  pegs 
as  in  layering,  and  covered  with  a  foot  of  earth,  which 
should  be  drawn  up  in  the  mound  form,  to  throw  off  the 
water. 

The  fig  is  sometimes  grown,  at  the  North,  in  large  pots 
or  tubs,  and  stored  in  a  cool  cellar  or  pit  during  winter. 

Ripening  the  Fruit. — In  fig-growing  countries,  and  to 
some  extent  here,  there  is  a  practice  of  applying  a  drop 
of  olive  oil  to  the  eye  of  the  fruit,  to  hasten  its  maturity. 
This  is  usually  done  by  means  of  a  straw. 

Training  in  Graperies. — The  back  wall  of  a  lean-to 
cold  vinery  is  an  excellent  place  for  the  fig.  It  may  be 
trained  on  a  trellis  in  a  fan  or  horizontal  manner,  but 
severe  pruning  must  not  be  practised  to  produce  regu- 
larity. 

SECTION  11. — PRUNING  THE  GOOSEBERRY. 

The  gooseberry  produces  fruit  buds  and  spurs  on  wood 
two  years  old  and  upwards.  Fig.  151  represents  the  two- 
year-old  wood,  A,  with  fruit  buds  (7,  (7,  and  J5,  the  one-year- 
old  wood  with  wood  buds, ./),  D.  Of  these  wood  buds, 
the  upper  one  next  season  would  produce  a  shoot,  and  the 
lower  ones  would  probably  be  transformed  into  fruit  buds. 
At  the  base  of  one  of  the  fruit  buds,  <7,  may  be  seen  a 
small  wood  bud,  d ;  this  during  next  season  will  produce 
a  small  shoot  or  spur.  The  great  point  to  aim  at  in  this 
country  must  always  be  to  maintain  a  vigorous  condi- 
tion ;  the  moment  the  plant  becomes  feeble  or  stinted,  the 
fruit  is  so  attacked  with  mildew  or  rust  as  to  be  utterly 


308 


THE    GOOSEBERRY. 


/(/ 


worthless.  Hence  it  is  that  young  plants  usually  bear  ex- 
cellent crops  for  the  first  or  second  year,  while  after  that  the 
mildew  is  in  some  varieties  and  situations 
unconquerable. 

The  bush  should  have  a  stem  of  three  or 
four  inches  in  hight,  and  a  head  composed 
of  five  or  six  main  branches  placed  at  equal 
distances  and  inclined  outwards,  to  prevent 
denseness  and  confusion  in  the  center.  These 
main  branches  should  be  furnished  with 
bearing  wood  in  all  their  length.  The  pro- 
duction of  such  a  bush  may  be  accomplished 
by  the  following  means  : 

Supposing  the  young  plant  as  it  comes 
from  the  nursery  to  be  either  a  two-year-ofd 
cutting,  or  a  one-year  bedded  layer ;  in 
either  case  it  will  have  a  stem  of  two  or 
three  inches  at  least,  and  a  few  branches  at 
the  top.  Before  planting,  all  the  buds  on 
the  part  of  the  stem  to  be  below  the  ground 
are  cut  out,  to  prevent  them  from  producing 
suckers.  Among  the  branches,  three  of  those 
most  favorably  situated,  are  selected  for  the 
Branch  of  the  f°rmation  of  the  head,  and  the  others  are 
gooseberry.  A,  cut  out  entirely.  The  reserved  branches  are 

two  .   year  -  old  ^  t   j       k    t      t  tn          b    d         f 

wood  ;     B,      one 

year;  (7,  c,  fruit-  these  one  shoot  is  taken  on  each  branch,  and 
buds;  />,  Awood-  the  others  are  pinched  to  favor  this.    By  this 

buds;   d,  a  small  *_  J 

wood-bud  at  the  method  we  shall  nave  three  stout  shoots  in 
base  of  fruit  -  the  fall.  If  the  plant  had  been  well  rooted, 
instead  of  being  newly  transplanted,  we 
might  have  taken  two  shoots  instead  of  one  from  each 
shortened  branch.  These  three  branches  are  cut  back  at 
the  next  pruning  to  three  or  four  buds,  and  from  each 
two  new  shoots  are  taken,  giving  at  the  end  of  that  sea- 
son six  stout  young  shoots,  situated  at  equal  distances. 


Fig.  151. 


THE    GOOSEBERRY.  309 

At  the  next  or  third  pruning  these  branches  are  cut  back 
about  one-half,  in  order  to  produce  lateral  branches  and 
fruit  spurs.  At  the  fourth  pruning,  the  leading  shoot  is 
shortened  one-third  to  one-half.  Any  lateral  branches  not 
required  to  fill  up  spaces,  or  such  as  are  improperly 
placed,  are  cut  back  to  three  or  four  buds,  so  as  to 
convert  them  into  fruit-branches. 

In  this  way  the  priming  is  conducted  from  year  to  year. 
When  the  plants  become  feeble  from  overbearing,  the 
fruit  branches  may  be  headed  down  and  replaced  by  new 
vigorous  shoots.  The  better  way,  however,  to  provide 
for  this  difficulty,  is  to  raise  young  plants  from  layers  or 
cuttings,  to  be  at  once  substituted  for  such  as  fall  a  victim 
to  the  mildew.  A  northern  aspect,  a  cool,  damp,  substan- 
tial soil,  and  abundance  of  manure,  are  all  necessary,  in 
connection  with  the  pruning  described,  to  produce  fine 
gooseberries. 

The  famous  growers  of  Lancashire,  England,  outdo  all 
the  world  besides  in  the  production  of  large  gooseberries. 
The  Encyclopaedia  of  Gardening  says :  "  To  effect  this 
increased  size,  every  stimulant  is  applied  that  their  inge- 
nuity can  suggest ;  they  not  only  annually  manure  the 
soil  richly,  but  also  surround  the  plants  with  trenches  of 
manure  for  the  extremities  of  the  roots  to  strike  into,  and 
form  round  the  stem  of  each  plant  a  basin,  to  be  mulched, 
or  manured,  or  watered,  as  may  become  necessary.  When 
a  root  has  extended  too  far  from  the  stem  it  is  uncovered, 
and  all  the  strongest  leaders  are  shortened  back  nearly 
one-half  of  their  length,  and  covered  with  fresh  marly 
loam,  well  manured.  The  effect  of  this  pruning  is  to  in- 
crease the  number  of  fibres  and  spongioles,  which  form 
rapidly  on  the  shortened  roots,  and  strike  out  in  all  direc- 
tions among  the  fresh,  newly  stirred  loam,  in  search  of 
nutriment." 

They  also  practise  what  they  term  suckling  their  prize 
fruit.  By  preparing  a  very  rich  soil,  and  by  watering, 


310  THE    CURRANT. 

and  the  use  of  liquid  manure,  shading  and  thinning,  the 
large  fruit  of  the  prize  cultivator  is  produced.  Not  con- 
tent with  watering  at  root,  and  over  the  top,  the  Lanca- 
shire connoisseur,  when  he  is  growing  for  exhibition,  places 
a  small  saucer  of  water  immediately  under  each  goose- 
berry, only  three  or  four  of  which  he  leaves  on  a  tree ; 
this  he  technically  calls  suckling.  He  also  pinches  off  a 
great  part  of  the  young  wood,  so  as  to  throw  all  the 
strength  he  can  into  the  fruit. 

SECTION  12. — PRUNING  AND  MANAGEMENT   OF  THE 
CURRANT. 

The  red  and  white  currants  bear,  like  the  gooseberry,  on 
wood  not  less  than  two  years  old,  nnd  therefore  the  same 
system  of  pruning  may  be  applied  to  them.  The  most 
convenient  and  easily-managed  form  in  which  they  can 
be  grown,  is  that  of  a  bush  or  small  tree,  with  a  stem  of 
three  to  six  inches  high,  and  a  head  composed  of  a  certain 
number,  say  six  or  eight  principal  branches,  situated  at 
equal  distances,  and  not  nearer  to  one  another  at  the  ex- 
tremities than  six  or  eight  inches. 

These  branches  are  produced  by  cutting  back  the  young 
shoots  found  on  the  nursery  plant,  as  recommended  for 
the  gooseberry.  They  are  afterwards  annually  shortened 
to  produce  lateral  branches,  when  wanted,  and  fruit  spurs. 
Care  must  be  taken  not  to  prune  too  close,  as  this  causes 
the  buds  on  the  lower  parts  to  make  wood  instead  of  fruit 
spurs :  one  third,  and  in  many  cases  one  fourth,  will  be 
quite  sufficient. 

The  Currant  as  a  Pyramid. — The  currant  is  very  easily 
formed  into  pretty  pyramids.  The  mode  of  conducting 
them  will  be  similar  to  that  recommended  for  other  trees. 

A  good  strong  shoot  must  first  be  obtained  to  com- 
mence upon ;  this  is  cut  back,  and  laterals  produced  as 
though  it  were  a  yearling  cherry-tree.  Summer  pruning 


THE    CURRANT.  311 

and  pinching  must  be  duly  put  in  practice,  under  any 
form,  to  keep  up  an  equality  of  growth  among  the  shoots, 
and  to  check  misplaced  and  superfluous  ones.  This  will 
obviate  a  great  deal  of  cutting  at  the  winter  or  spring 
pruning.  Mr.  Rivers,  in  his  "  Miniature  Fruit  Garden," 
says  :  "A  near  neighbor  of  mine,  an  ingenious  gardener, 
attaches  much  value,  and  with  reason,  to  his  pyramidal 
currant  trees ;  for  his  table  is  supplied  abundantly  with 
their  fruit  till  late  in  autumn.  The  leading  shoots  of  his 
trees  are  fastened  to  iron  rods ;  they  form  nice  pyramids 
about  five  feet  high ;  and  by  the  clever  contrivance  of 
slipping  a  bag  made  of  coarse  muslin  over  them  as  soon 
as  the  fruit  is  ripe,  fastening  it  securely  at  the  bottom, 
wasps,  birds,  flies,  and  all  the  ills  that  beset  ripe  currants 
are  excluded." 

The  Currant  as  an  Espalier. — It  is  sometimes  desirable, 
both  to  economize  space  and  to  retard  the  period  of  ripen- 
ing, to  train  currants  on  a  north  wall  or  trellis  ;  and  this 
is  very  easily  done  with  success.  We  have  seen  the  north 
side  of  a  neighbor's  garden  fence  completely  covered  with 
currants  without  any  system  whatever  being  pursued  in 
laying  in  the  branches.  The  plants  were  about  five  feet 
apart,  and  the  branches  were  fastened  to  the  wall  in  a  sort 
of  fan  form.  The  proper  way  to  treat  the  currant  as  an 
espalier  is,  to  produce  two  strong  branches  on  a  stem  six 
to  twelve  inches  high.  These  branches  are  trained  out  in 
a  horizontal  manner  like  two  arms — one  on  each  side ;  and 
from  the  shoots  which  they  will  produce,  as  many  as  are 
to  be  had  at  the  distance  of  six  inches  from  one  another 
are  trained  in  an  upright  position,  as  in  the  grape  vine 
(fig.  137). 

These  upright  shoots  are  managed  in  the  same  way  as 
the  branches  of  a  bush  ;  they  are  annually  shortened  back 
a  little  to  insure  a  good  supply  of  fruit  buds. 

The  Black  Currant  produces  its  best  fruit  on  the  wood 
of  the  preceding  year,  therein  differing  from  the  others. 


312  THE    RASPBERRY. 

In  pruning  it,  the  young  wood  must  be  preserved,  and 
branches  that  have  borne  must  bo  cut  back  to  produce  a 
succession  of  new  bearing  wood,  as  in  the  filbert. 

Manuring. — ~No  other  fruit  tree  is  so  patient  under  bad 
treatment  as  the  currant,  and  yet  none  yields  a  more 
prompt  or  abundant  reward  for  kindness.  In  addition  to 
the  annual  pruning  described,  the  bushes  should  receive  a 
dressing  of  old,  well-prepared  manure,  two  or  three  inches 
deep,  spread  all  around  as  far  as  the  roots  go,  and  forked 
lightly  in.  It  is  a  great  feeder,  and,  without  these  annual 
dressings,  the  soil  becomes  so  poor  that  the  fruit  is  really 
not  worth  gathering. 

PLANTING,  PRUNING,  AND  TRAINING  THE  RASPBERRY. 

Planting. — The  raspberry  succeeds  well  in  all  good 
garden  soils  in  the  Northern  States,  but  the  foreign  varie- 
ties (Rnbus  Idceus)  do  not  succeed  at  the  South  or  South- 
west. The  most  advantageous  and  economical  position 
for  a  raspberry  bed  in  the  garden  is  generally  in  the  wall 
border,  facing  north.  In  this  situation  the  fruit  ripens 
sufficiently,  and  the  canes  are  not  so  liable  to  suifer  from 
alternate  freezing  and  thawing  in  the  winter.  The  young 
canes  or  suckers  are  shortened  full  one  half,  and  planted 
at  the  distance  of  two  or  three  feet.  Any  flowers  that 
make  their  appearance  on  them  the  first  season  should  be 
removed,  in  order  to  turn  all  the  sap  to  the  benefit  of  the 
leaves  and  new  roots,  and  the  production  of  a  young  cane 
for  the  next  season. 

Pruning. — The  stem  is  biennial — that  is,  the  canes  are 
produced  one  season  and  bear  fruit  the  next,  and  then  die. 
For  example,  in  fig.  152,  A  is  the  old  cane  that  has  borne, 
and  is  of  no  further  use.  B  is  the  young  cane  produced 
at  its  base  last  season.  The  fruit  buds  produce  small 
shoots,  a,  a,  «,  thnt  bear  the  fruit.  The  pruning  is  very 
simple ;  it  consists  merely  in  cutting  away  early  in  the 


THE    RASPBERRY. 


313 


spring  the  old  cane  that  has  borne.  Some  people  do  this 
as  'soon  as  the  fruit  is  gathered,  on  the  ground  that  the 
young  cane  is  strengthened  by  so  doing  ;  but  this  is  ques- 
tionable. It  may  be,  on  the  whole,  safer  to  leave  it  to 
finish  its  natural  course,  and  cut  it  away  at  the  spring  or 
winter  pruning. 

The  young  cane  is  shortened  to  three  feet,  or  three  and 
a  half  or  four,  if  it  be  quite  stout  and  vigorous.  When 
the  plants  have  been  a  year  or  two 
in  their  place,  several  canes  will  be 
produced  from  one  stool  in  the  same 
season;  but  three  or  four  only  are 
reserved,  and  these  the  strongest. 
Each  one  is  pruned  or  shortened  as 
above  in  order  to  concentrate  the 
sap  on  the  bearing  buds  on  the 
center  and  lower  parts.  This  not 
only  increases  the  size,  but  im- 
proves the  quality  of  the  fruit. 
When  the  suckers  become  very  nu- 
merous, they  enfeeble  the  plant, 
and  it  soon  becomes  worthless.  All 
the  weaker  superfluous  ones  should 
be  carefully  removed  with  a  trowel 
early  in  the  season,  say  when  they 
have  attained  five  or  six  inches  of 
growth.  In  selecting  such  as  are  to  be  reserved,  prefer- 
ence should  be  given  to  those  being  nearest  in  the  regu- 
lar row  of  plants.  Some  of  the  French  authors  recom- 
mend leaving  a  hole  ten  or  twelve  inches  deep  around 
each  plant  at  the  time  of  planting,  to  be  filled  up  gradu- 
ally, three  or  four  inches  a  year,  with  fresh  earth,  to  pro- 
mote the  formation  of  vigorous  radical  buds,  at  the  collar 
of  the  root,  as  recommended  for  the  fig. 

Summer  Pruning. — The  foregoing  is  designed  for  the 
annual  or  winter  pruning,  but  if  summer  pruning  is  prac- 
14 


Fig.  152. 

The  Raspberry.  A,  the 
old  cane  that  has  borne 
and  will  be  cut  away  ;  .B, 
the  young  cane  for  next 
season,  to  be  shortened  at 
cross  line  b ;  (7,  radical 
bud,  to  produce  a  cane 
next  season. 


314 


THE    RASPBERRY. 


tised  all  that  will  be  needed  in  the  autumn  is  to  cut  away 
the  canes  that  have  borne  fruit. 

In  summer  pruning,  as  soon  as  the  young  shoots  have 
grown  to  a  hight  of  two  and  a  half  or  three  feet,  they 
should  have  the  ends  pinched  in.  This  will  soon  cause  them 
to  produce  laterals  or  side  branches,  and  these  again,  as 
soon  as  they  have  made  a  growth  of  one  foot,  should  be 
pinched  back,  and  at  the  same  time  the  shoot  from  the 
top  bud  of  the  cane  should  be  shortened.  This  causes 
the  plants  to  become  stocky  and  self-supporting. 

Manuring. — A  liberal  dressing  of  well-decomposed  ma- 
nure should  be  given  them  every  fall,  worked  carefully 
in  among  the  roots  with  the  digging  fork.  With  this 
treatment  a  bed  will  continue  productive  for  seven  years 
at  least. 

Training. — M.  Dubreuil  describes  a  very  pretty  and 
simple  method  of  training  practised  in  France,  and  I  had 


Fig.   153. — FRENCH  MODE  OF   TRAINING  THE  RASPBERRY  TO  STAKES 
AND   ROPES. 

the  pleasure  of  seeing  it  carried  into  practice  in  the  Rouen 
Garden  (fig.  153). 

The  railing  IB  is  a  narrow  strip  of  board,  or  a  small 
pole,  supported  on  upright  stakes;  it  is  eighteen  inches 
from  the  row  of  plants,  and  three  feet  from  the  ground. 
When  the  young  bearing  canes  are  pruned  in  the  spring, 
they  are  bent  over  and  fastened  to  this  rail ;  and  thus  the 
young  suckers  grow  up  without  mixing  with  the  fruit 
branches;  consequently  the  fruit  ripens  better  and  is 
more  easily  gathered.  During  the  summer,  when  the 


THE    RASPBERRY. 


315 


young  suckers  destined  to  bear  the  year  following  have 
reached  the  hight  of  two  feet,  they  are  fastened  to  a 
similar  rail  on  the  other  side  of  the  row,  and  the  same 
distance  from  the  line  of  the  ground. 

The  following  is  an  English  mode  of  training  described 
in  the  "  London  Gardeners'  Chronicle."  In  fig.  154,  the 
uprights  between  every  two  or  three  plants  are  iron,  and 


Fig.    154.— ENGLISH  MODE  OF  TRAINING  THE  RASPBERRY. 

the  horizontal  lines  to  which  the  canes  are  attached,  are 
tarred  rope. 

In  fig.  155,  the  plants  are  supposed  to  be  placed  in 
rows  four  feet  apart,  and  about  the  same  distance  from 
one  another  in  the  row.  The  number  of  shoots  on  each 
is  regulated  during  the  growing  season,  no  more  being 


Fig.    155. — ENGLISH   MODE   OF   TRAINING  THE   RASPBERRY  TO   STAKES. 

allowed  to  remain  than  the  plant  is  capable  of  support- 
ing. In  most  cases  six  or  eight  shoots  will  be  sufficient. 
Where  this  method  is  practised,  a  row  of  raspberries  in 
autumn  will  have  something  of  the  appearance  repre- 
sented in  fig.  155  ;  the  arched  portion,  tied  to  the  stake 


316  THE    RASPBERRY. 

in  the  center,  being  the  canes  which  bore  fruit  last  year, 
and  which  must  be  cut  down  to  the  bottom,  and  be  re- 
placed by  the  upright  shoots  of  last  summer. 

In  this  last  arrangement,  five  or  six  fruit-bearing  canes 
are  tied  together  to  one  stake,  and  it  is  impossible  that 
the  fruit  can  either  ripen  well  or  be  gathered  easily.  The 
two  first  are  good  and  simple  plans. 

Where  summer  pruning  is  practised  no  training  will  be 
needed,  but  in  absence  of  that  operation  being  performed 
we  have  practised  driving  stakes  at  distances  of  twelve  feet 
or  so  along  the  row,  and  then  simply  securing  a  cord  at  one 
end  of  the  row,  pass  it  along  one  side,  just  under  the  side 
branches,  giving  a  tie  around  each  stake,  and  the  same 
on  the  opposite  side,  thus  securing  the  canes  from  falling 
to  the  ground,  and  yet  leaving  them  free  and  open  to  air 
and  sunshine.  After  fruiting  the  cord  can  be  taken  off 
and  laid  away  for  another  year. 

Protection  in  Winter. — All  the  foreign,  or,  as  commonly 
termed,  Antwerp  varieties,  require  winter  protection  in 
the  northern  sections  of  the  States,  and,  indeed,  they  are 


Fig.    156. — COVERING   RASPBERRIES   WITH   THE    SPADE. 

the  better,  wherever  grown,  for  a  slight  protection  during 
the  winter  months. 

In  garden  culture  the  canes  are  bent  down  and  earth 
covered  over  them  with  a  spade  to  the  depth  of  two  to 
three  inches  (fig.  156),  the  dotted  lines  being  the  top  of 
the  covering  of  earth. 

In  the  field  or  large  plantations,  a  plow  is  run  along  by 
the  side  of  the  row,  and  a  shallow  furrow  opened  (a,  fig. 
157)  ;  then  a  man  or  boy  follows,  and,  bending  the 
canes  down  into  it  (#),  secures  them  in  place  by  draw- 


THE    BLACKBERRY.  317 

ing  over  them  a  little  earth,  either  with  the  hand  or  foot ; 
the  plow  then  returns,  throwing  the  furrow  over  and 
upon  the  plants  a  depth  of  one  to  four  inches  (see  dot- 
ted lines  in  fig.  157).  Another  way  of  covering  is  to 
first  lay  down  the  canes  along  the  line  of  row,  secur- 
ing by  a  little  dirt  on  their  ends,  and  then  turn  a  fur- 
row with  the  plow  towards  them  on  each  side.  This 


Fig.    157.— COVERING  RASPBERRIES  WITH  THE  PLOW. 

makes  the  center  between  each  row  to  act  as  a  drain  for 
surface  water.  The  canes  should  be  left  until  the  buds 
begin  to  swell  in  the  spring,  as,  if  taken  out  too  early,  they 
are  liable  to  be  killed  by  frosts.  In  localities  where  snow 
usually  covers  the  ground  during  winter,  merely  laying 
the  canes  upon  the  ground  and  covering  the  ends  with  a 
little  earth  is  sufficient. 

PLANTING,   PRUNING,  AND  TRAINING  THE   BLACKBERRY. 

The  blackberry  requires  a  deep  moist  soil,  not  wet,  but 
it  is  not  particular  whether  clay  or  sand.  The  canes  are 
planted  at  distances  of  six  to  eight  feet  apart,  according 
to  the  strength  of  the  soil.  Cover  the  crown  of  the  root 
not  more  than  two  inches  deep,  same  as  with  the  raspberry. 

Prune  the  cane  at  planting  the  same  as  the  raspberry, 
and  pursue  the  same  system  of  summer  pruning  or  pinch- 
ing, only  leaving  the  main  stems  from  four  to  six  feet 
long,  and  the  side  branches  fourteen  to  eighteen  inches. 
Tying  the  blackberry  canes  to  wires  or  stakes  is  an  un- 
pleasant labor,  and  we  have  found  that  stout  stakes  along 
the  rows  at  distances  of  sixteen  to  twenty  feet,  with  a  No. 
12  wire  stretched  along  each  side  at  three  to  four  feet 


318  THE    STRAWBERRY. 

from  the  ground,  according  to  the  hight  of  the  plants,  a 
good  support  and  economical  in  labor-saving.  The  wire, 
at  time  of  pruning  away  the  old  bearing  canes,  may  be 
removed  from  one  side,  and  again  replaced  after  the  prun- 
ing is  done.  Covering  the  blackberry  for  winter  protec- 
tion is  the  same  as  that  of  the  raspberry. 

CULTURE  AND  MANAGEMENT  OF  THE  STRAWBERRY. 

The  strawberry  is  not  difficult  to  suit  in  regard  to  the 
nature  of  the  soil,  for  every  year  we  see  abundant  crops 
gathered  from  a  variety  of  soils,  differing  widely  in  char- 
acter, from  a  light  sand  to  a  heavy  clay. 

The  best  soil  is  a  deep,  strong,  sandy  loam,  but  any  soil 
suited  to  the  growth  of  ordinary  field  or  garden  crops 
may  be  trusted  for  successfully  growing  the  strawberry, 
This  should  be  broken  up  and  pulverized  by  spade  trench- 
ing (page  72}  or  subsoil  plowing  (page  71),  and  enriched 
by  the  admixture  of  good  stable  manure  to  the  depth  of 
full  two  feet.  The  quantity  of  manure  will,  of  course,  be 
regulated  by  the  condition  of  the  soil.  New  soils  of 
good  quality,  unexhausted  by  cultivation,  will  require 
very  little,  just  enough  to  quicken  those  chemical  changes 
which  it  is  necessary  the  elements  of  fertility  should  un- 
dergo to  convert  them  into  a  nutritive  state.  In  old, 
pretty  well-worn  soils  a  coating  of  three,  four,  or  even 
six  inches  of  manure  should  be  spread  on  the  surface  be- 
fore the  trenching  or  plowing  begins,  and  be  regularly 
incorporated  with  the  soil  during  the  operation.  If  this 
trenching  or  plowing  can  be  done  in  the  autumn,  all  the 
better,  and  the  soil  should  be  left  as  rough  as  possible,  so 
that  the  frost  will  act  upon  it  efficiently  during  the  win- 
ter. Then  before  the  plants  are  set  in  the  spring,  the 
ground  should  be  turned  over  once  more  so  as  to  loosen 
it  and  incorporate  the  various  parts  thoroughly  with  one 
another.  The  beneficial  eftects  of  manure  depend  much, 


THE    STRAWBERRY.  319 

in  this  as  in  all  cases,  upon  its  even  distribution  in  the 
soil.  Some  old  gardens  become  infested  with  grubs  which 
live  upon  the  roots  of  plants  and  often  cut  off  all  crops. 
In  such  cases,  a  dressing  of  soot,  or  fresh  lime,  or  salt,  at 
the  time  of  trenching  or  plowing,  will  have  a  good  effect. 

It  is  almost  unnecessary  to  say  that  all  soils  of  a  wet 
nature,  whether  arising  from  springs  or  from  being  so  tena- 
cious as  to  hold  rain  a  long  time,  should  be  drained 
(page  73). 

Attention  to  the  subject  of  draining  cannot  be  too 
strongly  urged  upon  all  cultivators,  and  especially  cultiva 
tors  of  fruit,  and  the  strawberry  grower  should  constantly 
remember  that  the  certainty,  excellence,  and  profusion  of 
the  crop  depend  mainly  upon  the  richness,  depth,  and 
thorough  drainage  of  the  soil. 

Transplanting. — Next  to  the  preparation  of  the  soil  an 
important  item  is,  when  to  plant.  All  seasons,  in  the  hands 
of  skilful  persons,  and  with  care  in  shading,  etc.,  are  suc- 
cessful, but  the  months  of  April  and  May  in  the  spring, 
September  and  October  in  the  fall,  throughout  the  North- 
ern States,  January,  February,  and  March  in  the  South, 
are  periods  when  the  least  care  is  required  to  insure  the 
greatest  success. 

Fall  planting  at  the  North  involves  necessity  of  winter 
protection,  which  it  is  requisite  to  give  in  such  a  manner, 
and  with  such  material,  that  the  plants  may  be  prevented 
from  being  thrown  out  by  the  frost,  and  at  the  same  time 
not  smothered  by  the  mulch  of  leaves,  straw,  etc.,  being 
too  thick  and  heavy  on  their  crowns.  Early  fall  planting 
almost  always  insures  new  roots,  as  the  soil  is  warm  and 
the  roots  form  rapidly ;  it  is  also  a  season  when  the  ground 
works  finely  and  the  demand  for  labor  on  other  crops  is 
reduced.  For  large  plantations,  we,  however,  prefer  the 
spring,  just  about  the  time  when  the  ground  is  dry  and 
warm,  and  the  plants  are  beginning  to  grow.  One  plant 
in  a  thousand  need  not  be  lost  at  this  time,  if  the  ground 


320  THE    STRAWBERRY. 

has  been  properly  prepared,  the  plants  in  good  order,  and 
the  work  done  reasonably  well. 

The  ground  being  properly  prepared  and  made  smooth 
with  a  harrow,  the  planting  should  be  in  straight  rows, 
using  a  line,  and  may  be  done  with  a  dibble,  or  by  fur- 
rowing the  line  lightly  with  a  shovel,  or  double  mould- 
board  plow,  and  then  drawing  the  earth  in  around  the 
plant,  as  it  is  placed,  with  the  hands.  This  gives  oppor- 
tunity for  a  better  spreading  of  the  roots,  and  in  practice 
has  been  found  even  more  rapid  than  dibbling. 

In  extensive  field  culture  the  system  of  rows  is  the 
most  advantageous,  and  they  should  be  three  and  a  half 
to  four  feet  apart,  with  plants  one  foot  apart  in  the  row, 
to  admit  of  the  passage  of  the  horse-hoe  or  cultivator 
between  them. 

The  arrangement  of  plants  in  beds  is  a  matter  upon  which 
cultivators  differ  in  opinion  and  practice.  That  which  we 

regard    as    offering    the 
greatest  convenience  in 
a   garden    plantation    is 
to    divide    the    ground 
into   beds   of  four    feet 
wide,  each  of  which  may 
Fig.  158.— DIAGRAM  OF   STRAWBERRY-    contain    three    rows    of 
BED.  plants,  the  two  outside 

rows  six  inches  from  the  edge  of  the  beds  (fig.  158). 
The  plants  may  stand  twelve  inches  apart  in  the  rows, 
or  in  the  case  of  very  strong  growing  sorts,  such  as  Trol- 
lope's  Victoria  and  some  other  English  varieties,  eighteen 
inches  apart.  Thus  a  bed  twenty  feet  long  and  four  feet 
wide  will  contain  forty  to  sixty  plants. 

If  the  plantation  contains  several  of  these  beds  they 
should  be  separated  by  walks  or  alleys  of  two  feet  in 
width. 

These  walks  would  enable  the  gardener  to  perform  all 
the  labor  the  plants  would  require,  and  gather  the  fruit 


/2/T? 


THE    STRAWBERRY.  321 

without  stepping  on  the  beds,  which  is  a  consideration  of 
some  importance.  Next  to  this  arrangement  I  would 
recommend  rows  two  feet  apart,  with  the  plants  twelve 
to  eighteen  inches  apart  in  the  rows  (fig.  159).  In  this 
case  the  space  between  »/*m«  *  •  *  •  •  *  •am* 
the  rows  must  be  used  as  5  ^ 

a  path  in  gathering  the  •«.»,  ••••• 
fruit  and  performing  the  !£  !§ 

details  of  culture. 

d  T,  TIT  9I8IH*         *•••••          HSU!* 

Small  garden-beds  may        Fig  m_DIAGRAM  OF  FIELD. 
be  made  at  any  time  when  PLANTING. 

the  ground  is  not  frozen.  The  ground  should  be  raked  off 
smooth  and  even,  and  the  beds  or  plots  and  intervening 
walks  marked  by  the  line  and  a  measure.  When  this  is 
done,  then  stretch  the  line  where  it  is  intended  to  put  a 
row  of  plants,  mark  off  the  place  for  each  plant  by  a 
measure,  and  then  with  a  dibble,  such  as  that  described  on 
page  147,  set  the  plants,  pressing  the  earth  firmly  around 
each  with  the  hand.  When  the  rows  are  close  the  plants 
should  be  put  in  quincunx  order.  This  increases  the 
space  around  each  plant. 

In  a  dry  time  the  plants  should  be  well  watered  before 
they  are  taken  up,  and  the  ground  well  watered  before 
they  are  planted ;  then  they  must  be  protected  from  the 
hot  mid-day  sun  until  they  have  taken  root. 

In  planting  spread  out  the  roots  and  cover  them  with 
soil,  but  avoid  covering  the  crown  with  earth. 

The  plants  should  invariably  be  of  one  season's  growth, 
from  the  seed  or  runner,  and  well  rooted.  Where  only  a 
few  plants  are  needed,  those  nearest  the  parent  plant 
should  be  selected,  as  they  possess  a  greater  degree  of  vigor. 

They  should  always  be  taken  up  in  a  moist  time  if  pos- 
sible, and  before  planting  the  roots  should  be  dressed  by 
cutting  off  the  extremities,  and  the  older,  imperfect,  or 
bruised  foliage  should  also  be  pruned  off;  these  operations 
facilitate  the  process  of  re-rooting.  We  find  it  very 
14* 


322  THE    STRAWBERRY. 

good  to  dip  the  roots,  after  being  dressed,  in  mud  made 
of  loamy  soil  and  old  manure  well  mixed  with  water, 
about  as  thick  as  common  paint. 

In  compact  soil  a  little  sand  about  each  plant,  thrown 
into  the  bottom  of  the  hole  made  by  the  dibble,  will 
hasten  the  growth  of  young  roots  materially.  No  fresh 
manure  should  be  used  in  any  case  whatever. 

It  is  essential  in  the  culture,  in  order  to  produce  good 
crops,  that  the  runners  or  new  forming  plants  be  kept 
from  growing  just  the  same  as  if  they  were  weeds.  Early 
in  the  spring,  if  the  plants  have  been  mulched,  they 
should  be  gone  over  with  a  rake,  and  the  mulch  all  re- 
moved from  the  crown  or  center,  and  as  soon  as  the 
ground  is  in  condition  to  work,  all  between  the  rows  and 
among  the  plants  should  be  spaded  or  plowed  as  deeply 
as  possible.  All  weeds  should  'be  kept  down,  and  just 
before  the  fruit  commences  to  ripen  a  layer  of  straw  or 
fresh-mown  grass  should  be  placed  along  just  under  the 
foliage  and  around  the  plants,  for  the  purpose  of  keeping 
the  fruit  clean. 

After  the  crop  has  matured,  if  plants  are  wanted,  the 
ground  should  be  again  dug  or  plowed  and  the  mulch  re- 
moved, when  an  abundance  of  new  plants  from  runners 
will  soon  form.  If  in  the  garden,  and  another  year's  crop 
is  to  be  provided  for,  then  a  light  dressing  of  well-rotted 
manure  should  be  dug  in,  and  during  the  remainder  of  the 
season  all  runners  prevented  from  growing  and  weeds 
kept  down. 

For  field  crops,  if  the  plantation  has  borne  but  one  year, 
then  go  through  between  the  rows  and  plow  deep,  leaving 
only  the  hills  or  narrow  rows ;  smooth  down  with  the 
one-horse  harrow  and  cultivator,  and  then  from  time  to 
time  go  through  with  the  cultivator,  to  keep  down  all 
weeds  and  runners.  If  the  plantation  has  borne  two  crops, 
then  give  a  dressing  of  well-rotted  manure  along  between 
the  rows,  plow  deep,  harrow  down  smooth,  and  let  the 


FRUIT  TREES.  323 

runners  or  new  plants  form  along  into  it,  being  careful  to 
keep  down  weeds. 

The  new  plants  will  all  be  formed  by  September,  when 
the  plow  may  again  be  used  and  the  rows  of  old  plants 
turned  under,  leaving  the  new  plants  for  the  next  crop. 
The  most  successful  growers  practise  taking  but  one  crop 
from  a  plantation.  In  so  doing,  they  plant  in  spring,  per- 
mit the  runners  to  grow  as  they  please,  but  keep  down 
all  weeds,  and  the  ground  thoroughly  cultivated.  The 
crop  is  made  the  second  season,  and  then  the  plantation 
destroyed. 

SUNDRY    OPERATIONS    CONNECTED    WITH   THE   CULTURE 
OF  FRUIT  TREES. 

1st.  The  Annual  Cultivation  of  the  Soil. — The  soil 
around  fruit  trees  should,  especially  in  the  garden,  be  kept 
in  a  clean,  friable  condition  by  the  frequent  use  of  the  hoe 
and  the  spade ;  but  in  all  these  operations  the  roots  must 
not  be  injured.  The  forked  spade  (see  Implements)  is  the 
best  for  operating  about  the  roots. 

2d.  Manuring. — The  very  common  practice  in  regard 
to  the  use  of  manure,  is  to  apply  none  for  several  years, 
until  the  trees  have  begun  to  show  signs  of  feebleness  and 
exhaustion,  when  large  quantities  are  applied,  thus  induc- 
ing a  rank,  plethoric  growth,  that  can  scarcely  fail  to  be 
seized  with  diseases.  The  proper  way  is  to  apply  a  small 
dressing  of  well-decomposed  material,  like  some  of  the 
composts  recommended,  every  autumn.  This  should  be 
forked  in  around  the  extremities  of  the  roots.  There  may 
be  rich  soils  where  this  will  be  unnecessary ;  but  most 
ordinary  garden  soils  require  it. 

3d.  Mulching. — This  should  be  a  universal  practice  in 
our  dry  and  warm  summer  climate,  not  only  with  newly- 
planted  trees,  but  all,  and  especially  dwarfs  in  the  garden 
whose  roots  are  near  the  surface.  Three  or  four  inches 


324  FRUIT   TUBES. 

deep  of  half-decayed  stable  manure  or  litter  makes  a 
good  mulching.  It  should  be  applied  in  May,  and  remain 
all  summer.  After  the  fall  dressing  a  mulching  for  the 
winter  will  protect  the  roots  and  base  of  the  tree  from 
injury;  it  should  be  so  well  decayed  as  not  to  attract 
vermin. 

4th.  Watering. — In  dry  times,  and  especially  in  light, 
dry  soils,  fruit  trees  will  derive  vast  benefits  from  a  liberal 
syringing  overhead  in  the  evening,  with  a  hand  or  garden 
syringe  (see  Implements).  A  reservoir  in  the  garden  is 
therefore  desirable,  and  at  a  point  easy  of  access  from 
all  the  quarters  of  the  garden.  This  watering  refreshes 
the  trees,  drives  away  insects,  mildew,  etc.,  and  washes  off 
dust  and  filth  that  may  accumulate  on  the  foliage  and  fill 
up  the  pores.  It  is  more  necessary  in  city  and  village 
than  in  country  gardens. 

Protecting  Trees  against  Extremes  of  Temperature. — 
Where  the  trunk  or  large  branches  are  liable  to  injury 
from  sudden  changes  of  temperature  in  the  winter,  or 
from  a  powerful  sun  in  summer,  they  may  be  covered 
thinly,  with  long  rye  straw,  fastened  on  with  willows. 
The  trunk  alone  is  more  easily  protected  by  means  of 
two  boards  nailed  together,  forming  an  angle  for  the  tree. 
This  is  placed  on  the  south  side,  the  injury  being  induced 
chiefly  by  the  sun  at  both  seasons. 

Newly-transplanted  trees,  especially  if  they  have  tall 
trunks,  and  are  somewhat  injured  before  planting,  may  be 
saved  by  wrapping  them  lightly  with  straw ;  a  straw  rope 
rolled  around  answers  the  purpose.  A  little  damp  moss 
is  still  better ;  an  occasional  watering  will  keep  it  cool 
and  moist,  and  enable  the  sap  to  flow  under  the  bark. 

Renovating  pyramidal  trees  of  Apples  and  Pears  that 
have  become  enfeebled  or  unproductive  by  age,  bad  soil, 
bearing,  or  bad  pruning. — There  are  two  methods  of  doing 
this  successfully.  One  is,  to  cut  back  all  parts  of  the  tree. 
The  stem  may  be  cut  back  half  its  length,  the  lateral 


CULTURE  OF  FRUIT  TREES.  325 

branches  at  the  base  to  within  twelve  or  fifteen  inches  of 
the  stem,  and  shorter  as  they  advance  upwards,  so  that 
those  at  the  top  will  be  cut  to  four  or  six  inches.  This 
will  preserve  the  pyramidal  form. 

It  may  appear  unnecessary  to  cut  back  the  stem,  but 
we  find  when  this  is  not  done  it  is  almost  impossible  to 
secure  an  equal  growth  between  the  upper  and  lower 
parts,  because  the  wood  at  the  top  is  young,  and  attracts 
the  sap  much  more  than  the  wood  at  the  base  of  the  old 
branches  below.  For  a  few  years  after  this  renewal  the 
young  wood  at  the  top  must  be  kept  very  closely  pruned, 
to  prevent  it  from  absorbing  more  than  its  due  proportion 
of  the  sap.  When  growth  commences  on  trees  thus  cut 
back,  a  large  number  of  shoots  will  be  produced.  Amongst 
those  on  the  stem,  a  strong  and  well-placed  one  must  be 
selected  for  a  leader,  and  its  growth  favored  by  checking 
those  around  it.  Leaders  for  each  of  the  lateral  branches 
must  be  selected  and  encouraged  in  the  same  way.  The 
future  management  will  be  similar  to  that  described  for 
the  formation  of  young  trees.  We  have  succeeded  well 
with  a  large  number  of  trees  thus  treated.  Where  the 
soil  is  defective,  it  must  be  improved  and  renewed  with 
fresh  soil  and  composts,  so  that  abundant  nutriment  shall 
be  given  to  the  new  growth. 

The  second  method  of  renewal  referred  to  is,  that  of  cut- 
ting back  as  already  described,  and  grafting  each  branch. 

The  process  of  regrafting  old  orchards  of  standard 
apple-trees,  it  is  well  known,  renews  their  vigor,  and  re- 
places old,  worn-out,  and  deformed  branches  with  young 
and  vigorous  ones,  giving  to  the  entire  head  a  healthy  and 
youthful  appearance.  In  many  cases  this  grafting  will 
be  much  more  successful  than  simply  cutting  back,  for  the 
cions,  being  furnished  with  young  and  active  buds  that 
develop  leaves  at  once,  attract  the  sap  from  the  roots, 
place  it  in  contact  with  the  atmosphere,  and  carry  on  the 
formative  process  in  all  parts  of  the  tree  with  less  inter- 


326  CULTURE    OF   FKUIT   TREES. 

ruption  and  greater  activity  than  where  reliance  is  placed 
upon  the  production  of  new  shoots  on  the  old  wood ;  for 
this  must  be  effected  by  awakening  dormant  buds,  which 
in  many  cases  takes  place  slowly  and  with  more  or  less 
difficulty. 


IV. 


SELECT    VARIETIES    OF    FRUITS— GATHERING    AND 

PRESERVING  FRUITS— DISEASES-INSECTS 

—IMPLEMENTS  IN  COMMON  USE. 


CHAPTER    I. 

ABRIDGED  DESCRIPTIONS    OF   SELECT  VARIETIES   OF    FRUITS. 

THE  accumulation  of  varieties  of  fruits  within  the  last 
twenty  years  has  been  so  great,  that  anything  like  a  com- 
plete description  or  account  of  them  all,  would  in  itself  ex- 
ceed the  bounds  of  a  moderate-sized  volume.  Taken  al- 
together, there  are  perhaps  at  this  moment  no  fewer  than 
four  thousand  different  varieties  under  cultivation.  To 
trace  out  the  history,  the  peculiar  characters  and  merits 
of  these,  must  be  the  work  of  the  pomologist,  and  forms 
no  part  in  the  design  of  this  treatise.  In  making  the  fol- 
lowing selections,  and  in  describing  them,  pomological 
system  and  minuteness  have  not  been  deemed  essential, 
nor  would  they  be  practicable  within  the  necessary  limits. 

The  main  object  aimed  at  is,  to  bring  to  the  notice  of 
cultivators  the  best  varieties,  those  which  ample  experi- 
ence has  proved  to  be  really  valuable,  or  which  upon  a 
partial  trial  give  strong  indications  of  becoming  so. 
Nothing  is  more  embarrassing  to  the  inexperienced  culti- 
vator than  long  lists ;  and  many  will  no  doubt  be  inclined 
to  think  that  a  large  number  of  the  following  varieties 
might  very  well  be  dispensed  with.  But  it  must  be  re- 
membered that  our  country,  even  the  great  fruit-growing 
regions  of  it,  possess  different  climates,  that  there  are 
various  qualities  of  soils,  various  tastes  and  circumstances 
of  individuals,  to  be  provided  for.  A  dozen  or  twenty 
sorts  of  apples  or  pears  may  be  as  many  as  one  person 


330  SELECT    VARIETIES    OF    FRUITS. 

may  require ;  but  it  does  not  follow  that  these  varieties 
only  are  to  be  cultivated,  for  it  is  very  probable  that 
another  individual,  residing  even  in  the  same  State,  would 
make  a  selection  entirely  different.  New  York,  Massa- 
chusetts, New  Jersey,  Pennsylvania,  Ohio,  Kentucky,  and 
other  States,  have  all  varieties  of  their  own  •  and  by  the 
time  each  has  made  a  selection,  our  one  hundred  and  fifty 
varieties  will  be  appropriated,  and  a  deficiency  still  exist 
in  all  probability.  We  are  not  of  those  who  cry  out 
against  new  varieties.  On  the  contrary,  we  look  upon 
every  one  of  real  excellence  as  an  additional  blessing  to 
the  fruit  growers  and  to  society,  for  which  they  should  be 
duly  thankful.  The  only  thing  to  be  observed  in  regard 
to  them  is,  that  before  entering  into  general  cultivation 
they  should  be  fuirly  and  carefully  tested  under  various 
circumstances.  Some  well-meaning  persons  make  a  great 
outcry  against  nurserymen  and  others,  whose  business  it 
is  to  experiment,  for  extending  their  lists  or  noticing  new 
varieties,  and  against  horticultural  societies  for  offering 
premiums  for  large  collections.  If  such  a  spirit  had  pre- 
vailed, what  would  our  fruits  have  been  to-day  ? 

It  is  by  no  means  presumed  that  the  following  lists  are 
perfect,  even  as  far  as  they  go.  No  individual  possesses 
such  a  thorough  knowledge  of  the  various  soils  and  cli- 
mates of  our  country,  or  of  the  varieties  of  fruits  best 
adapted  to  them,  as  to  enable  him  to  recommend  with  in- 
fallible correctness  special  lists  for  all  localities. 

In  attempting  this,  reliance  must  be  placed  upon  the 
experience  and  reports  of  others,  and  these  are  always 
liable  to  be  biased  by  tastes  or  prejudices.  These  things 
have  been  kept  in  view,  and  wherever  recommendations 
are  made  beyond  our  own  knowledge  and  experience, 
they  are  based  upon  the  most  reliable  authority,  and  it  is 
hoped  will  not  be  found  wholly  unserviceable  to  those 
especially  who  have  neither  had  experience  nor  access  to 
sources  of  extensive  and  minute  information.  Those  who 


APPLES.  331 

are  not  satisfied  with  the  abridged  descriptions  are  re- 
ferred to  works  more  strictly  pomological. 

The  arrangement  of  varieties  under  the  heads  of  Sum- 
mer, Autumnfaud  Winter,  is  for  the  purpose  of  assisting 
the  reader  in  selecting  varieties  ripening  at  particular  sea- 
sons, while  the  terms  early  or  late  summer,  etc.,  in  place 
of  the  month,  is  because  of  its  better  application  to  the 
various  States  and  sections  of  States.  For  instance,  the 
Early  Harvest  ripens  at  the  South  early  in  June,  and  at 
the  North  early  in  July,  but  in  each  section  it  is  classed 
as  ripening  in  early  summer. 

Synonyms  have  been  omitted  in  most  cases,  because  of 
the  want  of  room,  and  because  the  work  is  intended  as  a 
guide  to  the  planter,  rather  than  a  work  on  pomology. 
When  inserted  they  are  in  SMALL  CAPITALS.  The  name 
given  to  each  fruit  is  the  recognized  name  of  the  Amer- 
ican Pomological  Society  so  far  as  recorded  in  their  Cat- 
alogue. 


FIRST     DIVISION.— KERNEL    FRUIT— APPLES,    PEARS, 
AND   QUINCES. 

SECTION  1. — SELECT  APPLES. 
CLASS  I. SUMMER  APPLES. 

American  Summer  Pearmain. — Medium  size,  oblong ; 

skin  smooth,  red  and  yellow  ;  flesh  tender,  juicy,  rich,  sub- 
acid. — Late  Summer.  Tree  a  moderately  vigorous  grow- 
er, upright ;  bears  early.  A  valuable  sort  for  family  use ; 
not  profitable  in  orchards. 

Benoni* — Origin  Massachusetts.  Medium  size,  roundish 
oblate ;  yellow,  shaded  and  striped  with  red.  Stem  short, 
calyx  closed ;  flesh  yellow,  juicy,  tender,  sub-acid. — Mid- 
Summer.  Tree  a  vigorous  upright  grower,  hardy  and  pro- 
ductive. A  valuable  variety  for  market  or  table  use. 


332  SELECT    VARIETIES     OF    FRUITS. 

Carolina  Red  June. — Origin  South.  Medium  or  below 
in  size,  oval  or  conic ;  purplish  red,  on  yellow  ground  ;  stem 
variable,  calyx  closed  ;  flesh  tender,  juicy,  brisk  sub-acid. 
— Early  Summer.  Tree  a  vigorous,  upright  grower,  good 
bearer ;  valuable  as  an  orchard  sort  South  and  West. 
Successful  in  New  York. 

Carolina  Watson, — Large,  roundish,  flattened ;  green- 
ish, shaded  and  striped  with  red;  flesh  white,  coarse,  mild 
sub-acid. — Mid-Summer.  A  Southern  variety  not  valued 
at  the  North. 

Early  Harvest. — Origin  American.  Medium  size,  round- 
ish oblate  ;  skin  smooth,  light  pale  yellow ;  stem  medium ; 
flesh  white,  tender,  juicy,  rich,  sub-acid. — Early  Summer. 
Tree  a  moderate  grower,  erect,  spreading  as  it  grows  old, 
productive.  A  valuable  variety  for  market  or  table  use 
in  almost  every  section. 

Early  Joe, — Origin  New  York.  Small  size,  oblate; 
yellowish,  covered,  striped,  and  shaded  with  red;  flesh 
tender,  juicy,  rich,  sprightly  vinous  sub-acid. — Mid-Sum- 
mer. Tree  a  slow,  upright  grower,  very  productive;  val- 
uable for  the  garden. 

Early  Pennock , — Origin  American.  Large  size,  round- 
ish, ribbed ;  yellow,  shaded  with  red ;  flesh  whitish,  rather 
coarse,  sub-acid. — Late  Summer.  Tree  a  strong  grower, 
productive;  valued  as  a  market  sort  in  parts  of  Ohio 
especially. 

Early  Red  Margaret, — Origin  foreign.  Medium  or 
below  in  size,  roundish  ovate;  skin  yellowish,  striped  and 
marbied  with  dull  red;  flesh  white,  tender,  crisp,  sub-acid, 
agreeable. — Early  Summer.  Tree  a  moderate  grower  and 
bearer. 

Early  Strawberry  (RED  JUNEATING  of  some). — Origin 
New  York.  Small,  roundish,  slightly  conical ;  skin  smooth, 
yellowish,  striped,  shaded,  and  mostly  covered  with  red ; 
flesh  white,  tinged  with  red  next  the  skin,  tender,  sprightly, 


APPLES.  333 

pleasantly  sub-acid  and  perfumed ;  very  good. — Middle 
to  late  Summer.  Tree  a  moderate  upright  grower,  an 
abundant  bearer,  ripening  its  fruit  along  evenly  for  a 
month  or  more ;  valuable  for  orchard  or  garden. 

Golden  Sweet, — Origin  Connecticut.  Medium  or  above, 
roundish,  pale  yellow  ;  flesh  yellowish,  tender,  sweet,  rich. 
— Mid-Summer.  Tree  a  strong  grower,  spreading,  a  good 
bearer ;  valuable  for  cooking,  market,  or  stock. 

Hightop  Sweet  (SWEET  JUNE). — Origin  Massachusetts. 
Medium  or  below  in  size,  roundish,  light  yellow ;  flesh 
yellowish,  sweet,  pleasant,  very  good. — Mid-Summer. 
Tree  vigorous,  upright,  productive ;  valued  for  the  mar- 
ket orchard. 

Large  Yellow  Bough  (EARLY  SWEET  BOUGH). — Origin 
American.  Large,  oblong,  ovate  ;  skin  smooth,  greenish 
yellow  ;  flesh  white,  tender,  sprightly,  rich,  sweet. — Early 
to  mid  Summer.  Tree  moderately  vigorous,  compact, 
good  bearer ;  one  of  the  best  for  table  or  market. 

Primate, — Probably  American.  Medium,  roundish  ob- 
late ;  greenish  white,  blush  cheek  in  the  sun  ;  flesh  white, 
very  tender,  sprightly,  mild  sub-acid. — Late  Summer. 
Tree  a  vigorous  grower,  upright,  very  productive ;  an  ex- 
cellent dessert  sort ;  too  tender  for. distant  market. 

Red  Astrachan. — Origin  Russian.  Large,  roundish, 
nearly  covered  with  deep  crimson  and  a  thick  bloom; 
flesh  tender,  juicy,  rich  acid. — Mid-Summer.  Tree  vig- 
orous, strong  grower,  upright,  spreading,  good  bearer; 
well  known  as  one  of  the  most  profitable  of  orchard  sorts, 
and  valuable  for  the  dessert  when  gathered  at  the  right 
time.  Probably  the  most  profitable  early  summer  apple 
in  every  part  of  our  country  from  Maine  to  California. 

Summer  Hagloe, — Origin  American.  Medium  to  large, 
roundish  oblate ;  yellow,  striped  and  splashed  with  red, 
slight  bloom ;  flesh  white,  tender,  juicy,  sub-acid. — Lafe 
Summer.  Tree  a  vigorous,  stocky,  short-jointed  grower, 


334  SELECT   VARIETIES     OF    FRUITS. 

making  a  handsome  round  head,  productive.  An  old 
sort,  but  comparatively  little  known  ;  valuable  for  orchard 
or  garden. 

Summer  Queen, — Origin  New  York.  Large,  conical ; 
striped  and  shaded  with  red  ;  flesh  aromatic,  whitish  yel- 
low, rich  and  agreeable. — Late  Summer.  Tree  vigorous, 
spreading,  productive ;  a  popular  and  successful  market 
sort. 

Summer  Rose  (LIPPINCOTT'S  EARLY,  etc.). — Origin 
New  Jersey.  Medium  or  below  in  size,  roundish,  smooth  ; 
yellow,  streaked  and  blotched  with  red ;  flesh  tender, 
juicy,  rich,  delicious,  spicy  sub-acid. — Middle  to  late 
Summer.  Tree  moderately  vigorous,  hardy ;  an  early  and 
productive  bearer,  highly  valued  as  a  dessert  fruit. 

Summer  Sweet  Paradise. — Origin  Pennsylvania.  Large, 

.round,  slightly  oblate  ;  greenisli  yellow ;  flesh  very  tender, 

juicy,  crisp,  rich  aromatic   sweet. — Late  Summer.     Tree 

vigorous,  spreading,  productive  ;  a  valuable   dessert  sort, 

too  tender  for  market. 

Tetofsky, — Origin  Russia.  Medium,  oblate,  nearly 
round;  yellowish,  striped  and  shaded  with  red,  thick 
whitish  bloom;  flesh  white,  juicy,  sprightly  acid,  fragrant. 
— Early  Summer.  Tree  vigorous,  upright,  with  large 
foliage,  which  most  Russian  varieties  seem  to  have ;  very 
hardy ;  an  early  and  abundant  bearer,  valued  as  an 
orchard  sort. 

Townsend  (HOCKING,  etc.). — Origin  Pennsylvania. 
Medium,  oblate ;  pale  yellow,  striped  with  red,  thin  bloom ; 
flesh  white,  tender,  mild,  agreeable  sub-acid. — Late  Sum- 
mer. Tree  vigorous,  upright  grower,  good  bearer ;  an 
old  sort,  valued  for  market  in  some  localities. 

Trenton  Early, — Origin  American.  Medium  or  above, 
irregular,  slightly  ribbed ;  yellowish  and  green ;  flesh 
light,  tender,  pleasant  sub-acid. — Middle  to  late  Summer. 
Tree  moderately  vigorous,  very  productive. 


APPLES.  335 

William's  Favorite  (WILLIAM'S  RED,  etc.). — Origin 
Massachusetts.  Medium,  roundish  oblong ;  light  and  dark 
red ;  flesh  yellowish  white,  mild  sub-acid. — Middle  to 
late  Summer.  Tree  a  moderately  vigorous  upright  grow- 
er, good  bearer  ;  a  beautiful  and  popular  market  sort. 

CLASS    II. AUTUMN    APPLES. 

Alexander. — Origin  Russian.  Large  or  very  large, 
conical ;  yellow,  mostly  shaded  with  red,  light  bloom ; 
flesh  yellowish  white,  tender,  juicy,  pleasant  sub-acid. — 
Middle  to  late  Autumn.  A  superb  fruit.  Tree  a  vigor- 
ous spreading  grower,  and  when  grown  as  a  dwarf,  pro- 
ducing fruit  of  the  largest  size  and  greatest  beauty. 

Autumn  Sweet  Bough  (FALL  BOUGH,  etc.). — Origin 
Pennsylvania.  Medium,  conical ;  pale  yellow ;  flesh  white, 
very  tender,  sweet,  vinous. — Early  Autumn.  Tree  vig- 
orous, upright,  productive;  a  highly,  esteemed  dessert 
variety. 

Autumn  Swaar  (SWEET  SWAAE,  etc.). — Origin  New 
York.  Medium  or  above,  roundish  oblate  ;  yellow,  with 
blush  in  sun ;  flesh  yellowish,  tender,  moderately  juicy, 
rich,  sweet. — Early  Autumn.  Tree  vigorous,  spreading, 
productive  ;  highly  esteemed  for  orchard  and  garden. 

Beauty  of  Kent. — A  well-known  popular  English  vari- 
ety. Large  to  very  large,  roundish ;  greenish  yellow,  with 
broken  stripes  of  red  ;  stem  short,  calyx  small;  flesh  juicy, 
crisp,  tender,  sub-acid. — Late  Autumn  and  early  Winter. 
Tree  very  vigorous,  upright,  and  moderately  productive ; 
a  showy  fruit,  and  highly  valued  for  cooking. 

Campfield  (NEWARK  SWEETING). — Origin  New  Jersey. 
Medium,  roundish  oblate ;  greenish  yellow,  with  shades  and 
stripes  of  red ;  flesh  white,  dry,  firm,  rich,  sweet. — Late 
Autumn,  but  will  often  keep  until  Spring.  Tree  a  mod- 
erate, healthy  grower,  spreading,  very  productive  ;  this  is 


336  SELECT    VARIETIES    OF    FRUITS. 

a  celebrated  cider  apple  in  New  Jersey,  and  is  valued  for 
baking  and  stock  feeding. 

Carter's  Blue,— Origin  Alabama.  Large,  roundish, 
flattened ;  greenish,  mostly  covered  with  dull  red  and  a 
blue  bloom;  flesh  yellowish  white,  sugary,  rich,  aromatic. 
— Early  Autumn.  Tree  a  fine  upright  grower  and  an 
early  bearer  ;  popular  in  some  parts  of  the  South. 

ChenangO  Strawberry  (SHERWOOD'S  FAVORITE,  etc.). 
— Origin  N"ew  York.  Medium,  oblong,  conic  ;  shaded, 
splashed,  and  mottled  with  crimson  red  and  white  ;  flesh 
white,  tender,  juicy,  mild  sub-acid. — Early  Autumn.  Tree 
vigorous,  spreading  ;  wherever  grown  this  is  highly  es- 
teemed ns  a  table  fruit  of  fair  quality  and  great  beauty. 

Cornell's  Fancy, — Origin  Pennsylvania,  Medium,  ob- 
long, conical ;  yellow,  shaded  with  crimson  red ;  flesh  white, 
tender,  crisp,  juicy,  pleasant  sub-acid.  Tree  vigorous  and 
productive. 

Duchess  Of  Olden  burgh, — Origin  Russian.  Medium  to 
large,  roundish ;  streaked  and  shaded  red  on  yellow  ;  flesh 
white,  juicy,  sprightly,  sharp  sub-acid. — Early  Autumn. 
Tree  vigorous,  upright,  spreading,  an  early  and  abundant 
bearer,  and  very  hardy.  This  variety  is  probably  more 
generally  cultivated  West  and  North-west  than  any  other. 
Everywhere  it  succeeds  and  proves  profitable  as  an  orch- 
ard variety. 

Dyer  (POMME  ROYALE,  GOLDEN  SPICE,  etc.). — Origin 
foreign.  Medium  size,  roundish ;  greenish  yellow,  with 
blush  in  sun;  flesh  white,  very  tender,  juicy,  sprightly 
aromatic,  mild  sub-acid. — Mid-Autumn.  Tree  a  moderate 
grower,  productive ;  this  is  one  of  the  best  of  dessert 
apples,  but  too  tender  and  not  showy  enough  for  shipment 
to  distant  markets. 

Fall  Pippin. — Supposed  American.  Large  to  very 
large,  roundish,  flattened  at  ends ;  yellowish ;  flesh  white, 
tender,  rich,  aromatic,  sub-acid. — Middle  to  late  Autumn. 


APPLES.  337 

Tree  vigorous,  upright,  spreading.  The  Fall  Pippin,  in 
sections  where  there  are  no  great  extremes  of  tempera- 
ture, is  one  of  the  most  valuable  varieties,  either  for  table 
or  market ;  popular  over  a  great  extent  of  country. 

Fall  Wine  (Oino  WIXE,  etc.). — Origin  American. 
Medium  or  above  in  siza,  roundish  oblate  ;  light  ground 
mostly  covered  with  red ;  flesh  yellowish  white,  tender, 
juicy,  rich,  aromatic,  mild  sub-acid. — Mid-Autumn.  Tree 
a  slender  but  healthy  grower,  moderate  annual  bearer. 
This  variety  fails  in  most  sections  East,  but  in  the  new, 
rich  soils  of  the  West  it  is  one  of  the  best,  and  the  fruit 
valuable  for  dessert  or  market. 

Garden  Royal* — Origin  Massachusetts.  Medium  or 
below  in  size,  roundish  oblong ;  greenish  yellow,  striped 
and  splashed  with  red  and  russet ;  flesh  yellowish,  very 
tender,  juicy,  rich,  mild  aromatic  sub-acid. — Early  Au- 
tumn. Tree  moderately  vigorous,  upright,  very  produc- 
tive. This  is  perhaps,  in  quality,  the  best  apple  grown, 
and  desirable  for  the  amateur,  but  not  profitable  as  an 
orchard  variety. 

Gravenstein. — Origin  German.  Large,  roundish,  flat- 
tened ;  yellow,  shaded  and  marbled  with  red ;  flesh  tender, 
crisp,  with  a  peculiar  high,  aromatic  flavor. — Early  Au- 
tumn, but  sometimes  keeps  to  mid-winter.  Tree  vigor- 
ous, spreading,  and  very  productive ;  it  is  one  of  the  most 
profitable  sorts  either  for  orchard  or  garden. 

Hawthorndeu.— Origin  Scotch.  Above  medium,  round- 
ish, slightly  oblate ;  light  yellow,  with  blush  in  sun ;  flesh 
white,  juicy,  sharp  sub-acid. — Early  Autumn.  Tree  vig- 
orous but  small,  upright,  spreading,  very  productive  and 
hardy ;  a  valuable  sort  for  cooking  and  drying,  and  prof- 
itable for  market. 

Jefferis. — Origin  Pennsylvania.  Medium,  roundish ;  yel- 
low, shaded  and  splashed  with  red ;  flesh  white,  tender, 
15 


338  SELECT   VARIETIES    OF   FRUITS. 

juicy,  rich,  mild  sub-acid. — Early  Autumn.     Tree  a  mod- 
erate, healthy  grower,  productive. 

Jersey  Sweet, — Origin  unknown.  Medium  size,  round- 
ish, ovate  ;  greenish  yellow,  washed  and  streaked  with  red5 
and  often  covered  with  stripes  of  pale  and  dark  red ;  flesh 
white,  juicy,  tender,  sprightly,  sweet. — Early  Autumn. 
Tree  moderately  vigorous,  very  productive ;  highly  valued 
for  dessert,  cooking,  stock,  or  market. 

Keswick  Codlin, — Origin  English.  Above  medium  in 
size,  rather  conical ;  greenish  yellow,  with  a  faint  blush  in 
sun;  flesh  yellowish  white,- juicy,  pleasant  sub-acid. — 
Early  Autumn.  Tree  vigorous,  a  very  early  and  abun- 
dant bearer;  one  of  the  most  profitable  sorts  for  cooking 
or  market. 

Late  Strawberry  (AUTUMN  STRAWBERRY). — Origin 
New  York.  Medium  size,  roundish,  slightly  conic ;  flesh 
yellowish  white,  tender,  juicy,  sub-acid. — Late  Autumn. 
Tree  vigorous,  upright,  spreading,  an  early  and  abundant 
bearer. 

Lowell  (QUEEN  ANNE,  TALLOW  PIPPIN,  etc.). — -Origin 
unknown.  Large,  roundish,  oval  or  conic  ;  waxen  yellow, 
oily  ;  flesh  yellowish  white ;  brisk,  rich  sub-acid. — Mid- 
Autumn.  Tree  vigorous,  spreading,  productive.  A  val- 
uable variety  for  either  garden  or  orchard,  a  fine  dessert 
apple  and  a  showy  market  fruit. 

Lyman's  Pumpkin  Sweet  (PUMPKIN  SWEET,  VERMONT 
PUMPKIN  SWEET,  etc.). — Origin  probably  Connecticut. 
Large  to  very  large,  roundish  ;  green,  with  whitish  streaks 
and  white  dots  ;  flesh  white,  very  sweet. — Early  to  late 
Autumn.  Tree  very  vigorous,  upright,  spreading,  valued 
for  baking,  stock,  or  market. 

Maiden's  Blush, — Origin  New- Jersey.  Medium  size, 
roundish  oblate  ;  pale  lemon  yellow,  with  a  bright  crimson 
cheek  next  the  sun ;  flesh  white,  tender,  sprightly,  brisk 
sub-acid. — Early  and  mid  Autumn.  Tree  a  fine  grower 


APPLES.  339 

with  a  spreading  head,  an  early  and  abundant  bearer.  A 
profitable  orchard  sort,  valued  for  table,  cooking,  or  market. 

Mangum  (FALL  CHEESE  OF  VIRGINIA,  etc.).— Medium, 
flattened,  slightly  conic ;  yellowish,  mostly  covered  and 
striped  with  red ;  flesh  yellow,  tender,  juicy,  mild  sub- 
acid. — Late  Autumn.  Tree  a  healthy,  good  grower,  pro- 
ductive. This  is  one  of  the  best  of  Southern  apples,  lias 
a  dozen  or  more  synonyms,  and  is  widely  grown  South 
and  South-west. 

Ohio  Nonpareil  (MYER'S  NONPAREIL). — Medium  to 
large,  roundish  oblate;  yellow,  shaded,  marbled,  and 
splashed  with  shades  of  red ;  flesh  yellowish  white,  fine- 
grained, tender,  juicy,  rich  aromatic  sub-acid. — Late  Au- 
tumn. Tree  vigorous,  with  stout  straight  shoots,  making 
a  regular,  spreading,  open  head,  productive ;  valuable  for 
table  or  market. 

Porter. — Origin  Massachusetts.  Above  medium  size, 
oblong,  narrowing  to  the  eye ;  bright  yellow,  with  blush  in 
the  sun  ;  flesh  fine-grained,  crisp,  firm  yet  tender,  spright- 
ly aromatic  sub-acid. — Early  Autumn.  Tree  a  moderate 
grower,  forming  a  low,  round,  spreading  head,  productive. 
Highly  esteemed  for  table  or  market,  and  succeeding  in 
all  good,  rich  soils. 

Richard's  Graft  (RED  SPITZENBURGH,  etc.). — Origin 
New  York.  Medium,  roundish,  flattened;  yellow,  nearly 
covered  with  shades  of  red;  flesh  yellowish,  tender,  juicy, 
aromatic  sub-acid. — Early  Autumn. 

Rome  Beauty* — Origin  Ohio.  Large  to  very  large, 
roundish  ;  yellow  shaded  and  striped  with  red  ;  flesh  yel- 
lowish, tender,  juicy,  sub-acid. — Mid- Autumn,  Tree  a 
moderate  grower,  late  bloomer,  productive. 

St,  Lawrence. — Supposed  origin  Canadian.  Large, 
oblate  ;  yellowish,  striped  and  splashed  with  deep  red  ;  flesh 
white,  slightly  stained  with  red,  juicy,  tender,  vinous  sub- 
acid, — Early  Autumn.  Tree  vigorous,  upright,  productive. 


340  SELECT   VARIETIES     OF    FRUITS. 

Sops  Of  Wine  (HOMINY,  etc.). — Origin  foreign.  Me- 
dium, roundish  ;  yellow  and  red,  splashed  and  shaded  with 
deep  red ;  flesh  white,  often  stained,  not  very  juicy,  pleas- 
ant sub-acid. — Early  Autumn. 

Washington  Strawberry. — Origin  New  York.  Large, 
roundish,  conical ;  yellow,  shaded,  splashed,  and  mottled 
with  rich  red;*flesh  yellowish,  crisp,  tender,  juicy,  brisk 
sub-acid. — Early  to  mid  Autumn.  Tree  vigorous,  upright, 
spreading,  an  early  and  abundant  bearer.  A  fine  market 
sort. 

CLASS  III. WINTER  APPLES. 

American  Golden  Rnsset  (BULLOCK'S  PIPPIN,  LITTLE 
PEARMAIN,  etc.). — Below  medium  size,  roundish,  ovate ; 
dull  yellow,  marbled  with  thin  russet ;  flesh  yellowish, 
very  tender,  juicy,  rich,  spicy. — Early  to  mid  Winter. 
Tree  a  moderate  upright  grower  and  good  bearer  ;  valued 
for  table  or  market,  for  West  and  South. 

American  Golden  Pippin  (GOLDEN  PIPPIN  OF  WEST- 
CHESTER  COUNTY). — Medium  to  large,  roundish,  slightly 
flattened  ;  yellow,  with  a  brownish  blush  in  sun ;  flesh  yel- 
lowish, juicy,  aromatic  sub-acid. — Early  Winter.  Tree  a 
strong  grower,  making  a  spreading  head ;  not  an  early, 
but  abundant  bearer. 

Baldwin  (STEELE'S  RED  WINTER,  etc.). — Origin  Mas- 
sachusetts. Large,  roundish,  narrowing  to  the  eye ;  yel- 
low ground,  nearly  covered  with  rich,  bright  red ;  flesh 
yellowish  Avhite,  crisp,  juicy,  pleasant  sub-acid. — Early  to 
late  Winter.  Tree  very  vigorous,  upright,  spreading,  an 
early  and  abundant  bearer.  In  many  sections  of  New 
England,  New  York,  Ontario,  and  Michigan  this  is  one 
of  the  most  popular  and  profitable  sorts  for  either  table 
or  market.  In  the  South  and  South-west  it  matures  with 
the  late  autumn  varieties. 


APPLES.  C41 

Baltimore  (CABLE'S  GILLIFLOWER,  etc.). — Origin  un- 
known. Medium,  roundish,  conical,  regular ;  pale  yellow, 
mostly  covered  with  shades  of  dull,  purplish  red ;  flesh 
whitish,  tender,  juicy,  mild  sub-acid. — Early  to  late  Win- 
ter. Tree  moderately  vigorous,  making  a  round,  rather 
drooping  head,  very  productive,  and  valuable  for  table  or 
market. 

Bailey's  Sweet, — Supposed  origin  New  York.  Large, 
roundish  conical,  slightly  oblong ;  yellow,  mostly  covered, 
shaded,  and  obscurely  striped  with  red ;  flesh  white,  ten- 
der, very  sweet. — Early  to  mid  Winter.  Tree  vigorous, 
uprigh^,  spreading,  productive ;  valued  for  table  use  or 
near  market,  too  tender  for  shipping. 

Belmont  (GATE,  etc.). — Origin  Pennsylvania.  Medium 
to  large,  roundish ;  light  waxen  yellow,  with  vermilion- 
spotted  cheek  in  sun ;  flesh  yellowish  white,  very  tender, 
juicy,  mild,  agreeable. — Early  to  mid  Winter.  Tree  mod- 
erately vigorous,  productive.  A  beautiful  dessert  variety, 
fine  in  Northern  Ohio  and  Michigan  and  New  York, 
but  variable  South  and  West. 

Ben  Davis  (NEW  YORK  PIPPIN,  etc.). — Supposed 
American.  Medium  to  large,  roundish,  conical;  yellow, 
mostly  overspread,  splashed,  and  shaded  with  red ;  flesh 
white,  tender,  juicy,  sub-acid. — Early  to  late  Winter. 
Tree  hardy,  vigorous,  upright,  spreading,  productive, 
blooms  late;  popular  as  a  market  variety  at  the  West 
and  South-west. 

Bentley's  Sweet. — Supposed  origin  Virginia.  Medium, 
roundish,  flattened  at  the  ends ;  yellowish  green,  shaded 
with  pale  red  ;  flesh  whitish,  firm,  juicy,  sweet. — Late 
Winter.  Tree  moderately  vigorous,  a  good  bearer;  es- 
teemed in  rich  soils  of  the  South-west. 

Bethlehemite* — Supposed  origin  Ohio.  Medium  or 
above,  oblate,  roundish;  yellow,  striped,  shaded,  and 
splashed  with  red ;  flesh  white,  firm,  crisp,  juicy,  rich, 


342  SELECT    VARIETIES     OF    FRUITS. 

mild,  aromatic  sub-acid.— Early  to  late  Winter.  Tree  a 
strong,  stocky,  upright  grower,  a  productive  bearer ;  where 
known  it  is  highly  valued  for  all  purposes. 

Bonum  (MAGNUM  BONUM). — Origin  North  Carolina. 
Medium,  oblate  ;  yellow,  mostly  covered  with  crimson  and 
dark  red;  flesh  white,  often  stained  red  next  the  skin, 
tender,  juicy,  rich,  mild  sub-acid. — Early  Winter.  Tree 
vigorous,  upright,  spreading,  an  early  and  abundant 
bearer. 

Broadwell. — Origin  Ohio.  Medium,  oblate,  conic ;  yel- 
low, with  dull  blush  and  carmine  spots  in  sun ;  flesh  whitish, 
firm,  juicy,  rich,  sweet. — Early  Winter.  Tree  vigorous, 
quite  spreading,  productive  ;  a  valuable  apple  for  table  or 
cooking. 

Buckingham  (EQUINETELY,  EALL  QUEEN,  etc.). — Origin 
unknown.  Medium  to  large  size,  oblate,  slightly  conic  ; 
greenish  yellow,  mostly  covered  with  rich  red  ;  flesh  yel- 
lowish, coarse,  breaking,  juicy,  sub-acid. — Early  Winter. 
Tree  moderately  vigorous,  hardy,  and  productive.  This 
variety  is  widely  grown  in  the  South  and  South-west,  and 
is  popular  for  market  or  table;. it  has  over  twenty  syn- 
onyms. 

Canada  Reinette  (REIXETTE  CANADA,  etc.). — Origin  un- 
certain, probably  foreign.  Large  to  very  large,  oblate, 
conical ;  greenish  yellow ;  flesh  rather  firm,  juicy,  lively 
sub-acid. — Late  Winter.  Tree  vigorous,  with  an  open, 
spreading  head,  very  productive  ;  a  popular  variety,  suc- 
cessful in  most  localities. 

Cannon  Pearmain. — Origin  American.  Medium  size, 
roundish,  conic ;  yellow,  mostly  covered  with  two  shades 
of  red ;  flesh  yellow,  firm,  crisp,  rich,  brisk  sub-acid. — Mid- 
Winter.  Tree  vigorous,  spreading,  productive ;  esteemed 
where  known  South  and  West. 

Cogswell. — Origin  Connecticut.  Above  medium,  round- 
ish, oblate;  red  on  yellow  ground;  flesh  yellowish  white, 


APPLES.  343 

rather  firm,  juicy,  aromatic  sub-acid. — Early  to  late  Winter. 
Tree  a  hardy,  vigorous,  upright  grower,  and  good  bearer ; 
extremely  valuable  for  orchard  or  garden. 

Cooper's  Market  (REDLING). — Origin  probably  New 
Jersey.  Medium,  oblate,  conic ;  yellow,  shaded  and  striped 
with  red ;  flesh  white,  tender,  brisk  sub-acid. — Late  Win- 
ter. A  good  keeper.  Tree  hardy,  vigorous,  upright, 
productive  ;  considerably  grown  in  Western  New  York. 

Cllllasaga. — Origin  North  Carolina.  Medium  to  large, 
roundish ;  yellowish,  shaded  and  striped  with  dark  red ; 
flesh  yellowish,  firm,  moderately  juicy,  mild  sub-acid. — 
Early  to  late  Winter.  Tree  a  good  grower  and  pro- 
ductive. 

Dominc  (ENGLISH  RED  STREAK,  etc.). — Origin  uncer- 
tain. Medium  size,  oblate ;  greenish  yellow,  with  stripes 
and  splashes  of  red  in  sun ;  flesh  white,  tender,  juicy, 
sprightly,  pleasant  sub-acid. — Early  and  mid  Winter. 
Tree  rapid,  vigorous  grower,  and  a  very  early  and  abund- 
ant bearer.  It  is  a  popular  and  profitable  orchard  sort  in 
most  localities. 

Dutch  Mignonne* — Origin  Holland.  Medium  size, 
roundish,  oblate ;  yellow,  shaded,  striped,  and  splashed 
with  red;  flesh  yellowish,  tender,  juicy,  slightly  sub-acid. 
— Early  to  late  Winter.  Tree  moderately  vigorous,  up- 
right, spreading,  hardy  and  very  productive. 

English  Russet  (POUGHKEEPSIE  RUSSET). — Origin  un- 
known. Medium  size,  roundish,  slightly  conical ;  green- 
ish yellow,  mostly  covered  with  russet ;  flesh  yellowish 
white,  pleasant,  mild  sub-acid. — Late  Winter.  Tree  a 
moderate,  erect  grower,  forming  a  straight,  upright,  round 
head,  very  productive  ;  a  profitable  variety. 

Esopus  Spitzenburgh,  — Origin  New  York.  Size, 
above  medium  to  large,  oblong,  roundish  ;  yellow,  mostly 
covered  with  rich  red ;  flesh  yellow,  crisp,  juicy,  rich, 
brisk  aromatic  flavor. — Mid  to  late  Winter.  Tree  a 


244 


PRUNING. 


a  wall  to  be  covered  much  sooner,  and  brings  the  trees 
into  full  bearing  at  a  much  earlier  period,  without  abridg- 
ing their  duration.  We  have  given  to  this  new  method, 
invented  by  us,  for  the  pear,  in  1852,  the  name  of '  Cordon 
Oblique  Simple.'  Its  application  is  made  as  follows  : 

"  Take  young  trees,  one  year  from  the  graft  or  bud, 
healthy  and  vigorous,  having  single  stems ;  plant  about 
eighteen  inches  apart,  and  incline  one  from  the  other, 
at  an  angle  of  about  60°. 

"Each  one  is  cut  back  one-third  its  length,  above  a 
bud,  in  front,  as  at  A,  fig.  117.  During  the  summer  fol- 
lowing, the  development  of 
the  terminal  shoot  is  favored 
as  much  as  possible,  and  all 
the  others  are  transformed 
into  fruit  branches  or  spurs  by 
the  aid  of  these  operations, 
recommended  for  the  same 
purpose,  in  training  the  pear 
as  a  pyramid.  In  the  spring 
following,  each  of  these  young 
trees  presents  the  aspect  of 
fig.  118. 

"  The  second  pruning  con- 
sists in  applying  to  each  of 
the  lateral  branches  the  care 
necessary  to  transform  them 
into  fruit-spurs,  and*to  cut 
back  one-third  the  new  terminal  shoot.  The  summer 
treatment  will  be  like  that  of  the  preceding. 

u  At  the  third  pruning,  the  young  stem  should  ordina- 
rily attain  two- thirds  its  entire  length,  when  it  should 
be  brought  down  to  an  angle  of  45°  with  the  surface  of  the 
ground ;  and  the  terminal  shoot  and  laterals  are  subjected 
to  the  same  operations  as  in  previous  seasons.  If  these 


Fig.    117. — OBLIQUE    CORDON 
PEAK — FIRST   TEAR. 


trees  had  been  brought  down  at  first  to  an  angle  of  45°,  it 


CORDON    TRAINING. 


245 


•would  have  promoted  the  growth  of  strong  superfluous 
shoots  at  the  base,  to  the  detriment  of  the  terminal  shoot. 

"  To  complete  these  trees,  it  remains  only  to  continue 
to  prolong  the  stem,  by  means  of  the  operations  described, 
until  it  reaches  the  top  of  the  wall. 
Having  reached  that,  the  stems  are 
cut,  each  year,  about  fifteen    inches 
below  the  coping  of  the  wall,  in  order 
to  make  place  for  the  annual  growth 
of  a  vigorous  shoot,  which  will  cause 
the   sap  to  circulate   freely  through 
the  whole  extent  of  the  stem." 

"  As  to  the  side  of  the  horizon  to- 
wards which  the  tree  should  be  in- 
clined, this  is  a  matter  of  no  import- 
ance where  the  walls  run  east  and 
west ;  but  for  .those  north  and  south, 
the  stems  should  be  inclined  to  the 
south;  the  fruit  branches  on  the 
lower  sides  will  thus  be  better  ex- 
posed to  the  light.  It  is  recommend- 
ed, however,  that  where  the  walls  are 
situated  on  sloping  ground,  the  trees 
should  be  inclined  towards  the  summit 
of  the  slope,  otherwise  they  would 
attain  the  top  of  the  wall  too  soon. 

"  The  trees  being  planted  about  eighteen  inches  apart, 
it  results  that  the  espalier,  when  completCj  is  composed  of 
branches,  lying  parallel,  with  a  space  of  about  a  foot  be- 
tween them,  as  in  fig.  119. 

"  The  espaliers,  trained  in  this  form,  can  be  completed 
in  five  years,  whereas,  by  other  methods,  it  would  require 
ten  or  twelve. 

"  They  may  begin  to  fruit  the  fourth  year,  and  be  in  full 
bearing  the  sixth,  while  twenty  years  would  be  required 
by  the  other  methods. 


Fig.  118. — OBLIQUE  COB- 
DON    PEAR — SECOND 
YEAR. 


346  SELECT    VARIETIES    OF    FRUITS. 

tiful  and  delicious  dessert  apple,  and  a  profitable  market 
sort.     Commands  $10  to  $20  per  bbl. 

Lady's  Sweet. — Origin  New  York.  Large,  roundish  ; 
yellowish  green,  nearly  covered  with  red ;  flesh  tender, 
juicy,  crisp,  sprightly,  agreeable,  sweet. — Late  Winter. 
Tree  a  thrifty  but  not  strong  grower,  an  early  and 
abundant  bearer ;  valued  as  a  dessert  sort  and  keeper. 

Law?er. — Large,  roundish,  flattened  ;  dark  clear  red  ; 
flesh  white,  firm,  sprightly,  aromatic,  mild  sub-acid. — 
Late  Winter.  Tree  vigorous,  spreading,  productive.  A 
new  promising  variety,  recently  introduced  from  Missouri. 

Limber  Twig. — Origin  North  Carolina.  Medium  or 
above  in  size,  roundish;  greenish  yellow,  shaded  with 
dull  red ;  flesh  not  very  tender,  juicy,  brisk  sub-acid. — Late 
Winter.  Tree  vigorous,  hardy,  productive.  A  popular 
market  variety  South  and  West. 

Melon. — Origin  New  York.  Medium  or  above  in  size, 
roundish,  oblate ;  pale  yellow,  mostly  covered  with  red, 
and  traces  of  russet;  flesh  white,  tender,  juicy,  vinous 
sub-acid. — Mid-Winter.  Tree  a  slow  grower,  making  a 
round,  small  head,  good  bearer. 

Menage  re. — Of  European  origin.  Very  large  and 
beautiful,  much  flattened  ;  pale  yellow,  sometimes  blush, 
red  in  sun ;  flesh  tolerably  juicy  ;  valued  for  market  and 
cooking.  Tree  a  vigorous  grower  and  a  good  bearer. 

Michael  Henry  Pippin. — Origin  New  Jersey.  Medium, 
roundish,  oblong ;  yellowish  green  ;  flesh  greenish  white, 
tender,  juicy,  mild,  sweet. — Mid-Winter.  Tree  a  good, 
upright  grower,  and  hardy  and  very  productive. 

Monmoilth  Pippin. — Origin  New  Jersey.  Large,  ob- 
late; pale  yellow,  with  a  red  cheek  in  sun;  flesh  juicy, 
brisk,  aromatic  sub-acid. — Middle  to  late  Winter.  Keeps 
well.  Tree  a  moderate,  upright  grower,  and  productive ; 
a  beautiful  and  excellent  fruit. 


APPLES.  347 

Moore's  Sweet  (RED  SWEET  PIPPIN,  etc.). — Medium, 
roundish,  flattened ;  dark,  dull  red  ;  flesh  yellowish,  pleas- 
ant, rich,  sweet. — Early  to  late  Winter.  Tree  moderately 
vigorous,  hardy,  very  productive.  A  profitable  orchard 
sort  for  market,  cooking,  or  stock-feeding. 

Mother. — Origin  Massachusetts.  Medium,  roundish, 
slightly  conical ;  yellow,  nearly  covered,  splashed,  and 
marbled  with  rich  shades  of  red ;  flesh  yellowish,  tender, 
juicy,  rich,  aromatic  sub-acid. — Early  Winter.  Tree 
moderately  vigorous,  upright,  productive ;  a  valuable 
dessert  apple. 

Munson  Sweet  (OKANGE  SWEET,  etc.). — Origin  prob- 
ably Massachusetts.  Medium,  flat ;  yellow,  with  some- 
times a  blush ;  flesh  yellowish,  juicy,  sweet. — Autumn  and 
early  Winter.  Tree  a  vigorous,  spreading  grower,  and 
a  good  bearer. 

Newtown  Pippin  (GEEEN  NEWTOWN  PIPPIN). — Origin 
Long  Island.  Medium  size,  roundish,  obscurely  ribbed ; 
olive  green,  brownish  on  sunny  side  ;  flesh  greenish  white, 
very  juicy,  crisp,  with  delicious  aromatic  flavor. — Late 
Winter.  Tree  a  slender,  slow  grower,  on  rich  soils  makes 
a  medium-sized  round  head,  productive.  Both  this  and 
the  Yellow  Newtown  Pippin  require  rich  soil  and  good 
care,  and  with  these  are  profitable  only  in  particular  lo- 
calities. There  is  so  little  difference  between  the  two  that 
many  regard  them  as  identical. 

Newtown  Spitzenblirgh  (  VANDEEVEEE  OF  NEW  YOEK). 
— Medium  size,  oblatev  roundish ;  yellow,  shaded  and 
striped  with  red,  light  bloom  ;  flesh  yellow,  tender,  juicy, 
rich,  sprightly  vinous. — Early  Winter.  Tree  moderately 
vigorous,  spreading,  very  productive ;  succeeds  in  nearly 
all  soils,  and  valuable  for  table  or  market.  It  has  ten  or 
more  synonyms,  and  is  generally  and  popularly  known  in 
all  New  York  as  Vandervere  of  New  York.  The  name  of 


348  SELECT    VARIETIES     OF    FKUITS. 

Newtown  Spitzenburgh  having  "been  first  given  this  apple 
by  Coxe,  it  has  again  been  adopted. 

Nickajack  (WINTEII  ROSE,  etc.). — Origin  North  Caro- 
lina. Large  size,  roundish ;  yellowish,  striped  and  shaded 
with  red  ;  flesh  yellowish,  moderately  tender,  juicy,  pleas- 
ant.— Late  Winter.  Tree  a  vigorous,  upright,  spreading 
grower,  forming  a  large  head,  hardy  and  productive. 
The  variety  is  extensively  grown  South  and  West,  and 
has  many  synonyms. 

Northern  Spy. — Origin  New  York.  Large,  roundish, 
oblate,  conical;  pale  yellow,  mostly  covered,  when  ex- 
posed to  sun,  with  stripes  of  light  and  dark  red ;  flesh 
white,  fine-grained,  tender,  sub-acid,  sprightly  delicious. — 
Mid  to  late  Winter.  Tree  a  rapid,  upright  grower,  re- 
quires good  soil,  blooms  late,  very  productive,  but  not  an 
early  bearer ;  a  fruit  of  unrivalled  beauty  and  excellence. 

Ortley  (WOODMAN'S  LONG,  etc.). — Origin  New  Jersey. 
Medium  to  large,  roundish,  oblong,  conic;  greenish  yel- 
low, fine  yellow  at  maturity;  flesh  white,  fine-grained, 
tender,  juicy,  pleasant  sub-acid. — Mid- Winter.  Tree  vig- 
orous, with  slender  shoots,  an  abundant  bearer.  The 
Ortley  has  some  .thirty  synonyms,  is  a  hardy  tree,  and 
popular  South  and  West. 

Peck's  Pleasant.— Origin  probably  Rhode  Island. 
Above  medium  size,  roundish,  flattened ;  yellow,  with  a 
blush-red  on  sunny  side;  flesh  yellowish,  fine-grained, 
juicy,  crisp,  tender,  aromatic  sub-acid. — Mid- Winter. 
Tree  a  moderate,  upright,  spreading  grower,  a  regular, 
even  bearer,  very  valuable  for  market  or  table  use. 

Phillips'  Sweet, — Origin  Ohio.  Above  medium,  round- 
ish, flattened,  inclining  to  conic  ;  light  yellow,  shaded  and 
striped,  mostly  covered  with  shades  of  red  ;  flesh  white, 
crisp,  pleasant,  juicy,  rich  sweet. — Early  to  late  Winter. 
Tree  a  thrifty,  upright  grower,  an  early  and  abundant 
bearer ;  one  of  the  finest  of  sweet  apples. 


APPLES.  349 

Pomme  Grise. — Origin  probably  France.  Below  me- 
dium size,  roundish,  oblate ;  greenish  gray,  mostly  cov- 
ered with  russet;  flesh  tender  and  rich. — Mid-Winter. 
Tree  a  moderate  grower,  forming  a  small  head,  and  bear- 
ing early  ;  valued  as  a  dessert  fruit. 

Pryor's  Red. — Origin  supposed  Virginia.  Medium, 
roundish,  oblate ;  greenish  yellow,  shaded  with  red  ;  flesh 
yellowish,  tender,  juicy,  pleasant  sub-acid. — Late  Winter. 
Tree  moderately  vigorous,  upright,  spreading,  requires  a 
rich  soil ;  much  grown  and  valued  in  Kentucky. 

Rambo  (ROMANITE,  etc.). — Origin  Delaware.  Medium 
size,  flat;  yellow  and  red  ;  flesh  tender,  rich,  mild  sub- 
acid. — Early  Winter.  Tree  vigorous,  spreading,  produc- 
tive. The  Rambo  is  an  old,  highly  and  widely  esteemed 
variety,  for  orchard  or  garden. 

Ramsdell'S  Sweet  (ENGLISH  SWEET,  etc.). — Origin 
unknown.  Above  medium  size,  oblong  ;  mostly  covered 
with  red,  and  a  bloom  ;  flesh  yellowish,  tender,  sweet,  rich. 
— Early  Winter.  Tree  vigorous,  upright,  an  early  bearer. 

Rawle's  Janet  (JENITON,  etc.). — Origin  Virginia.  Above 
medium  size,  oblate,  conic ;  yellow,  striped  and  shaded 
with  red;  flesh  whitish  yellow,  tender,  pleasant,  juicy, 
sub-acid. — Late  Winter.  Tree  very  hardy  and  vigorous, 
blooms  late,  productive;  largely  cultivated  in  Missouri 
and  other  parts  of  the  South-west.  At  the  late  meeting 
of  the  American  Pomological  Society,  Dr.  Howsley,  of 
Kansas,  who  claims  to  know  the  origin  of  this  famous 
fruit,  stated  that  it  should  be  JEANNETTE. 

Red  Canada  (RICHFIELD  NOXSTTCH,  etc.). — Medium, 
roundish ;  yellow,  mostly  covered  with  red ;  flesh  tender, 
crisp,  juicy,  brisk,  delicate,  mild  sub-acid. — Late  Winter. 
Tree  a  thrifty  but  slender  grower,  productive.  A  popular 
and  valuable  sort  in  all  the  Middle,  North,  and  West  sec- 
tions ;  a  superior  fruit  for  table  or  market ;  very  success- 


350  SELECT   VARIETIES     OF    FRUITS. 

ful  and  popular  in  Michigan,  where  it  is  frequently  called 
"  Steele's  Red  Winter." 

Red  Winter  Pearmain  (BATCHELOR,  etc.).— Origin  un- 
known. Medium  size,  roundish  oblong ;  yellowish  white, 
mostly  covered  with  maroon  red;  flesh  whitish  yellow, 
tender,  juicy,  mild  sub-acid. — Early  to  late  Winter.  Tree 
a  moderate,  upright  grower,  and  good  bearer.  This 
variety  has  a  dozen  or  more  synonyms,  under  some  one  of 
which  it  is  widely  grown  West  and  South. 

Rhode  Island  Greening. — Large,  roundish;  greenish 
yellow  ;  flesh  yellow,  tender,  juicy,  aromatic  acid. — Early 
Winter.  Tree  a  vigorous,  strong  grower,  and  very  pro- 
ductive. This  variety  is  too  well  known  to  need  a  word. 
It  is  one  of  the  most  profitable  and  valuable  in  almost  all 
the  North,  but  South  it  drops  its  fruit  too  early. 

Ribston  Pippin. — Origin  England.  Medium,  roundish ; 
greenish  yellow,  and  dull  red ;  flesh  yellow,  firm,  crisp, 
rich,  aromatic. — Early  to  late  Winter.  Tree  moderately 
vigorous,  spreading,  productive;  valued  in  Maine  and  all 
Northern  sections. 

Roxbury  Russet* — Origin  Massachusetts.  Medium  to 
large,  roundish,  flattened ;  dull  green,  covered  with 
brownish  yellow  russet ;  flesh  greenish  white,  moderately 
juicy,  sub-acid. — Late  Winter.  Tree  moderately  vigor- 
ous, productive;  an  old,  well-known,  popular  sort,  suc- 
cessful in  all  New  England  and  large  portions  of  the 
Middle  and  Western  States. 

Shockley. — Origin  Georgia.  Below  medium  size, 
roundish,  conical ;  yellow,  mostly  covered  with  red ;  flesh 
crisp,  juicy,  rich,  pleasant. — Late  Winter.  Tree  moder- 
ately vigorous,  upright,  hardy,  and  very  productive  ;  very 
popular  and  profitable  at  the  South. 

Smith's  Cider. — Origin  Pennsylvania.  Medium  to 
large,  roundish  ;  yellow,  shaded  with  red  ;  flesh  whitish, 
crisp,  tender,  juicy,  pleasant,  mild  sub-acid. — Early  to  late 


APPLES.  351 

Winter.  Tree  a  very  vigorous  but  straggling  grower, 
productive ;  popular  as  a  market-orchard  sort,  in  many 
localities  ;  succeeds  best  from  New  Jersey  southward. 

Smokehouse. — Origin  Pennsylvania.  Above  medium, 
roundish,  oblate  ;  yellow,  shaded  with  red  ;  flesh  yellow- 
ish,  juicy,  rather  rich  sub-acid. — Early  Winter.  Tree 
moderately  vigorous,  a  good  bearer;  esteemed  where 
known  for  market  and  cooking. 

Stanard* — Medium  to  large,  roundish,  oblate ;  dull 
yellow,  splashed  and  striped  with  red ;  flesh  yellowish, 
rather  coarse,  j  uicy,  sub-acid. — Late  Winter.  Tree  a  rapid 
but  crooked  grower,  very  hardy,  abundant  bearer,  and 
profitable  North  and  West. 

Swaar, — Origin  New  York.  Large,  roundish  ;  yellow 
at  maturity ;  flesh  yellowish,  fine-grained,  tender,  rich, 
spicy,  aromatic,  mild  sub-acid. — Middle  to  late  Winter. 
Tree  a  moderate  grower,  good  bearer,  needs  a  deep,  dry 
soil  and  good  culture. 

Talman'S  Sweet, — Origin  Rhode  Island.  Medium, 
round;  yellowish;  flesh  white,  rather  firm,  rich,  sweet. 
— Early  to  late  Winter.  Tree  vigorous,  hardy,  and  pro- 
ductive ;  highly  valued  over  a  large  territory  of  country, 
as  a  profitable  orchard  sort,  for  cooking,  or  stock  pur- 
poses. 

Tewksbury  Winter  Blush, — Origin  New  Jersey.  Small, 
oblate,  roundish ;  light  yellow,  with  a  red  cheek ;  flesh 
yellowish,  moderately  juicy,  pleasant  sub-acid. — Very  late 
Winter.  Tree  a  rapid,  upright  grower,  very  productive ; 
an  old  sort,  valued  for  its  long-keeping  qualities. 

Twenty-Ounce  (CAYUGA  RED  STREAK). — Origin  sup- 
posed Connecticut.  Very  large,  roundish;  greenish  yel- 
low, marbled  and  striped  with  purplish  red  ;  flesh  rather 
coarse,  brisk  sub-acid. — Mid-Autumn  to  early  Winter. 
Tree  an  upright,  thrifty,  compact  grower,  and  a  good 


352  SELECT    VARIETIES     OF    FKUITS. 

bearer.  It  is  one  of  the  popular  market  sorts,  always  fair 
and  handsome,  excellent  for  cooking. 

Wagener, — Origin  ]STew  York.  Medium,  roundish,  ob- 
late ;  yellow,  mostly  shaded  with  red ;  flesh  yellowish, 
tender,  juicy,  brisk,  slightly  vinous. — Early  Winter.  Tree 
a  thrifty,  upright  grower,  and  an  early  and  over-abund- 
ant bearer. 

Westfield  Seek  -  no  -  Further, — Origin  Connecticut. 
Large,  roundish,  conical ;  green  yellow,  mostly  covered  with 
dull  red  ;  flesh  white,  fine-grained,  tender,  rich,  sub-acid. — 
Early  to  mid  Winter.  Tree  a  moderate,  healthy,  upright, 
spreading  grower,  very  productive. 

White  Pippin. — Large,  roundish,  oblate ;  greenish,  be- 
coming pale  whitish  yellow  at  maturity,  sometimes  a  dull 
blush  cheek  in  sun ;  flesh  white,  tender,  juicy,  crisp,  rich, 
sub-acid. — Late  Winter.  Tree  thrifty,  upright  grower, 
and  a  good  bearer ;  considerably  grown  in  the  West  and 
highly  esteemed. 

White  Winter  Pearmain* — Medium  or  above,  roundish, 
oblong ;  pale  yellow,  with  a  blush  cheek  in  sun  exposures ; 
flesh  yellowish,  tender,  juicy,  pleasant  sub-acid. — Late 
Winter.  Tree  hardy,  vigorous,  spreading,  productive; 
esteemed  in  somo  localities  at  tho  West,  little  known 
East. 

Willow  Twig, — Medium  size,  roundish,  or  roundish  ob- 
late ;  yellow,  shaded  and  marbled  with  dull  red  ;  flesh 
not  very  tender,  pleasant  sub-acid. — Yery  late  Winter. 
Tree  hardy,  but  a  spreading,  poor  grower  while  young, 
very  productive,  and  much  cultivated  at  the  South-west 
as  a  profitable  market  sort,  on  account  of  keeping  and 
carrying  qualities. 

Wine  (WINTER  WIXE,  HAY'S,  PENNSYLVANIA  RED 
STREAK). — Origin  Delaware.  Above  medium  size,  round, 
or  roundish ;  yellow,  mostly  covered  with  lively,  rich, 
deep  red  ;  flesh  yellowish  white,  juicy,  rich,  vinous,  pleas- 


APPLES. 

ant. — Early  to  late  Winter.     Tree  a  thrifty  grower,  hardy, 
and  very  productive ;  widely  successful  West  and  South. 

Winesap* — Origin  New  Jersey.  Medium  size,  round- 
ish, oblong,  conical ;  yellow  ground,  mostly  covered  with 
rich  dark  red;  flesh  yellowish,  firm,  crisp,  juicy,  rich 
flavor. — Early  to  late  Winter.  Tree  a  healthy  grower, 
very  hardy,  an  early  and  abundant  bearer ;  successful  and 
profitable  as  an  orchard  variety  over  a  large  portion  of 
our  country,  especially  West  and  South. 

Winter  Sweet  Paradise. — Origin  Pennsylvania.  Large, 
roundish,  oblate  ;  dull  green,  with  a  brownish  red  blush ; 
flesh  white,  fine-grained,  juicy,  sweet. — Early  and  mid 
Winter.  Tree  a  vigorous,  upright  grower,  productive, 
but  not  an  early  bearer. 

Yeliow  Bellflower, — Origin  New  Jersey.  Large,  ob- 
long, slightly  conical ;  lemon-yellow,  usually  with  a  blush 
in  sun  exposures;  flesh  breaking,  tender,  juicy,  sprightly, 
sharp  sub-acid. — Early  to  late  Winter.  Tree  moderately 
vigorous,  forming  a  spreading,  rather  drooping  head,  not 
an  early  but  abundant  bearer. 

Yellow  Newtown  Pippin, — Above  medium  to  large, 
roundish  oblate ;  greenish,  becoming  quite  yellow  when 
fully  ripe;  flesh  firm,  crisp,  juicy,  with  a  rich,  high  flavor. 
— Late  Winter.  Tree  a  moderate  grower,  requiring  a  rich 
soil,  when  it  is  productive  and  profitable. 

CLASS   IV. APPLES    FOR    ORNAMENT    OR   PRESERVING. 

The  Siberian  Crabs  are  beautiful  little  fruits,  varying  in 
size  from  one  to  one  and  a  half  inch  in  diameter.  They 
are  much  esteemed  for  preserving,  and  as  an  ornamental 
tree,  whether  in  blossom  or  loaded  with  their  brilliantly- 
colored  fruit,  they  merit  a  place  in  the  smallest  garden. 
In  extensive  grounds  they  may  be  planted  in  groups,  pro- 
ducing a  fine  effect. 


354  SELECT   VARIETIES     OF   FEUITS. 

Cherry  Crab. — Small,  roundish,  pointed ;  light  yellow, 
shaded  with  red ;  flesh  crisp,  pleasant ;  hangs  long  on  the 
tree. — Early  Autumn.  Tree  a  moderate,  healthy  grower, 
makes  a  handsome  round  head. 

Hyslop. — Large,  for  a  crab,  roundish,  egg-shaped ;  dark, 
rich  red,  with  a  thick  blue  bloom ;  flesh  yellowish  ;  fine 
for  cooking  or  cider ;  bears  in  clusters.  Tree  a  strong, 
spreading  grower. 

Lady  Crab. — Small,  roundish,  flattened;  rich  dark  red, 
with  some  russet ;  flesh  yellowish,  mild  sub-acid.  Tree  a 
vigorous,  very  upright  grower.  A  foreign  variety  of 
great  beauty. 

Large  Red  Siberian  Crab.— Nearly  twice  the  size  of 
the  common  Siberian  crab ;  yellow,  shaded,  on  sun  side, 
with  bright  red.  Tree  very  vigorous,  forming  a  large  head  ; 
valued  for  preserving. 

Large  Yellow  Siberian  Crab. — Resembles  the  fore- 
going except  in  the  shape  of  its  fruit,  which  is  more  oval, 
and  the  color  a  light,  clear  yellow. 

Montreal  Beauty. — Large,  roundish,  flattened  ;  bright 
yellow,  mostly  covered  with  clear,  bright,  rich  red. 

Oblong  Siberian  Crab, — Medium  size,  oblong  in  form ; 
beautifully  shaded  with  rich  crimson ;  thin  bloom. 

Red  Siberian  Crab, — Small,  roundish;  bright  lively 
scarlet,  over  a  close  yellow  ground,  light  bloom  ;  an  old, 
well-known  sort. 

Transcendent. — Large,  roundish  oblong,  slightly  flat- 
tened ;  golden  yellow,  with  a  crimson  cheek  in  sun,  white 
bloom,  often  the  red  nearly  covers  the  entire  surface.  It 
is  highly  prized  in  some  sections  as  a  table  fruit  in 
autumn.  Tree  a  strong,  rapid  grower  and  abundant 
bearer. 

Yellow  Siberian  Crab.— The  fruit  of  this  is  a  trifle 
larger  than  Red  Siberian,  and  is  of  a  fine,  clear  yellow  color. 


APPLES.  355 

There  have  recently  been  introduced  a  number  of  new 
seedling  crabs,  originated  chiefly  at  the  West.  Some  of 
them  arc  described  as  keeping  into  mid-winter,  some  of 
such  quality  as  to  fit  them  for  the  dessert,  and  all  repre- 
sented as  valuable,  in  the  extreme  North  and  North-west, 
for  their  hardiness. 

They  are  a  highly  interesting  class  of  fruits,  and  quite 
likely  to  prove  valuable. 

SELECT    LIST    OF    APPLES. 

The  following  varieties  arc  recommended  for  the  East- 
ern and  Middle  States. 

Summer. — Early  Harvest,  Early  Strawberry,  Golden 
Sweet,  Large  Yellow  Bough,  Red  Astrachan,  Williams' 
Favorite. 

Autumn. — Chenango  Strawberry,  Duchess  of  Olden- 
burg, Fall  Pippin,  Gravenstein,  Hawthornden,  Jefferis, 
Jersey  Sweet,  Lowell,  Ly man's  Pumpkin  Sweet,  Porter, 
St.  Lawrence. 

Winter.  —  Baldwin,  Esopus  Spitzenburgh,  Fameuse, 
Golden  Russet  of  Western  New  York,  Hubbardston  Non- 
such, Jonathan,  King  of  Tompkins  County,  Lady  Apple, 
Monmouth  Pippin,  Mother,  Northern  Spy,  Peck's  Pleas- 
ant, Pomme  Gris,  Red  Canada,  Rhode  Island  Greening, 
Roxbury  Russet,  Talman's  Sweet,  Twenty-Ounce,  Wag- 
ener,  Yellow  Bellflower. 

For  the  West  and  South : 

Nearly  all  the  summer  and  fall  varieties  of  the  Eastern 
and  Middle  States  succeed  well  at  the  West  and  South. 
The  winter  varieties  specially  adapted  to  those  regions 
are  so  designated  in  the  previous  lists.  In  California  and 
Oregon  our  best  Northern  sorts  generally  succeed,  but  the 
winter  varieties  of  the  South  will  be  better  adapted  to 


356  SELECT  VARIETIES    OF    FRUITS. 

the  warmer   districts  of  California,   than   our   Northern 
winter  sorts. 

CHOICE    GARDEN  VARIETIES. 

Red  Astrachan,  Early  Strawberry,  Early  Joe,  Keswick 
Codlin  (cooking),  Summer  Rose,  Duchess  of  Oldenburgh, 
Fall  Pippin,  Gravenstein,  Garden  Royal,  Dyer,  Fameuse, 
Jonathan,  Lady  Apple,  Melon,  Northern  Spy,  Pomme 
Gris,  Red  Canada,  Swaar,  Esopus  Spitzenburgh,  Wagener. 

TWENTY  VERY  LARGE  AND   BEAUTIFUL  SORTS  FOR   DWARFS. 

Red  Astrachan,  Large  Sweet  Bough,  Beauty  of  Kent, 
Alexander,  Duchess  of  Oldenburgh,  Fall  Pippin,  Wil- 
liams' Favorite,  Gravenstein,  Ilawthornden,  Maiden's 
Blush,  Porter,  Menagere,  Baldwin,  Bailey  Sweet,  Canada 
Reinette,  Northern  Spy,  Mother,  Rambo,  Twenty-Ounce, 
Wagener. 

SECTION  2. — SELECT  PEARS. 
CLASS  I. SUMMER  PEARS. 

Bartlett  (WILLIAMS'  BONCHRETIEN,  etc.). — Origin  Eng- 
land. Large,  obtuse,  pyriform  ;  bright,  clear  yellow,  when 
fully  ripe,  sometimes  a  little  russet ;  flesh  white,  buttery, 
juicy,  musky  perfume. — Late  Summer.  Tree  an  upright, 
thrifty,  healthy  grower,  very  productive.  The  Bartlett 
is  one  of  the  few  good  pears  that  succeed  everywhere  ;  it 
has  no  competitor  as  a  summer  market  fruit ;  bears  early 
as  a  standard. 

Beurrtf  Gilford. — Origin  France.  Medium  size,  pyri- 
form ;  greenish  yellow,  with  considerable  red  in  sun ;  flesh 
white,  melting,  juicy,  vinous,  perfumed. — Late  Summer. 
Tree  a  slender  grower,  healthy,  hardy,  very  productive ; 
a  beautiful  fruit  and  the  best  of  its  season ;  should  be  gath- 
ered early. 


357 

BlOOdgOOd. — Origin  Long  Island.  Medium  size,  tur- 
binate,  fleshy  at  base  of  stalk ;  skin  yellow,  with  russet 
dots  and  network  markings ;  flesh  yellowish  white, 
buttery,  melting,  sugary,  very  aromatic. — Mid-Summer. 
Tree  is  hardy,  with  close,  firm,  short-jointed  wood,  an 
early  and  abundant  bearer ;  a  delicious  pear,  but  not  at- 
tractive for  market. 

BraildywiiiC. — Origin  Pennsylvania.  Medium  size,  py- 
riform ;  dull  yellowish  green,  slight  touch  of  russet,  and 
blush  cheek  on  sun  side ;  flesh  white,  juicy,  melting, 
vinous,  aromatic. — Late  Summer.  Tree  an  upright,  vig- 
orous grower,  with  rich  glossy  foliage  and  very  pro- 
ductive. 

(Lapp's  Favorite, — Origin  Massachusetts.  Large,  ob- 
ovate ;  pale  yellow,  marbled  and  splashed  with  red  and 
light  brown ;  flesh  white,  fine-grained,  juicy,  melting, 
buttery,  rich,  vinous,  perfumed,  sweet. — Late  Summer. 
Tree  an  upright,  spreading,  open  grower,  bearing  its  fruit 
evenly  distributed,  very  productive ;  a  comparatively  new 
variety  of  great  promise,  supposed  to  be  a  cross  between 
Flemish  Beauty  and  Bartlett ;  the  tree  resembles  the 
former,  the  fruit  the  latter. 

Dearborn's  Seedling. — Origin  Massachusetts.  Below 
medium  size,  roundish,  oval;  skin  smooth,  light  yellow, 
or  straw  color ;  flesh  white,  very  juicy,  sweet,  melting, 
sprightly. — Late  Summer.  Tree  a  fine  grower,  an  early 
and  profuse  bearer.  The  tree  is  quite  hardy  and  succeeds 
in  almost  all  localities  ;  very  fine  for  the  dessert. 

Doyenntf  d'Ettf  (SUMMER  DOYENNE). — Origin  Belgium. 
Small,  roundish  ;  fine  yellow,  often  with  a  bright  red  cheek 
in  sun  ;  flesh  white,  melting,  juicy,  sweet,  pleasant. — Mid- 
Summer.  Tree  an  upright,  vigorous  grower,  an  early  and 
abundant  bearer ;  this  is  the  first  to  ripen  of  the  really 
good  pears. 

Duchesse    de    Berry   d'Ettf, — Origin   France.      Small, 


358  SELECT   VARIETIES     OF    FRUITS. 

roundish,  slightly  pyriform ;  yellow,  shaded  with  light 
red,  more  or  less  russet,  and  often  a  red  cheek;  flesh 
juicy,  melting,  vinous. — Late  Summer.  Tree  a  fine,  vig- 
orous grower,  and  a  good  bearer  ;  an  excellent  and  beau- 
tiful fruit,  not  extensively  cultivated. 

Madeleine  (CITRON  DES  CARMES). — Origin  France. 
Medium  size,  obovate,  pyriform ;  bright  yellow,  with  a 
red  cheek  ;  flesh  white,  juicy,  sugary,  sprightly,  aromatic. 
— Late  Summer.  Tree  a  fine  grower,  forming  a  fine,  up- 
right head,  productive  ;  a  very  old  and  excellent  sort,  not 
so  much  planted  as  formerly,  owing  to  the  introduction  of 
new  varieties. 

Manning's  Elizabeth. — Origin  Belgium.  Below  me- 
dium size,  obtuse,  pyriform;  bright  yellow,  with  a  lively 
red  cheek;  flesh  white,  juicy,  very  melting,  sugary, 
sprightly,  aromatic. — Late  Summer.  Tree  a  moderate 
grower,  an  even,  regular  bearer ;  the  small  size,  beauty, 
and  excellent  quality  of  this  variety  recommend  it  to  all 
amateurs. 

Osband's  Summer  (SUMMER  VIRGALIEU). — Origin  New 
York.  Medium  size,  obtuse  pyriform ;  yellow,  dotted 
with  green  and  brown  dots,  thin  russet,  red  cheek  in  the 
sun. — Mid-Summer.  Tree  moderately  vigorous,  upright, 
an  early  and  abundant  bearer. 

Rostiezer. — Origin  Germany.  Medium  or  below  in 
size,  oblong,  pyriform;  dull  yellowish,  mixed  with  red- 
dish brown ;  flesh  juicy,  slightly  buttery,  melting,  sugary  ? 
vinous,  aromatic,  perfumed.— Late  Summer.  Tree  a 
rapid,  vigorous,  but  straggling  grower,  requiring  severe 
pruning  while  young  to  form  a  good  head  ;  bears  early 
and  abundantly  ;  a  pear  of  fine  quality,  but  not  attractive 
for  market. 

Tyson, — Origin  Pennsylvania.  Medium  size,  clear  yel- 
low, with  a  bright,  red  cheek ;  flesh  juicy,  very  sweet, 
melting,  slightly  aromatic. — Late  Summer.  Tree  a  vig- 


PEARS.  359 

orous,  upright  grower,  not  an  early  bearer,  but  very  pro- 
ductive ;  a  variety  of  great  excellence  both  in  tree  and 
fruit. 

CLASS   II. AUTUMN   PEARS. 

Ananas  d'Ete'* — Origin  Holland.  Above  medium  size, 
pyriform,  sometimes  obtuse ;  yellow,  with  brown  russet 
in  sun ;  flesh  fine-grained,  buttery,  melting,  sweet,  per- 
fumed.— Early  Autumn.  Tree  vigorous,  an  early  and 
profuse  bearer. 

Baronne  de  iUollo, — Origin  Belgium.  Medium,  vary- 
ing in  form,  often  roundish,  acute,  pyriform ;  yellowish, 
nearly  covered  with  brown  russet;  flesh  whitish,  a  little 
coarse,  juicy,  melting,  vinous  sub-acid. — Mid- Autumn. 
Tree  productive,  hardy,  and  a  vigorous  grower. 

Belle  Epine  Dumas  (Due  DB  BOURDEAUX).— Medium 
size,  obtuse,  pyriform  ;  greenish  yellow,  with  russet  dots ; 
flesh  white,  half-melting,  buttery,  juicy,  sweet. — Late  Au- 
tumn. Tree  a  vigorous,  fine  grower,  and  a  good  bearer. 

Belle  Lucrative  (FOND ANTE  D'AUTOMNE). — Medium 
size,  form  variable,  generally  roundish,  obtuse,  pyriform  ; 
flesh  melting,  juicy,  rich,  sugary,  delicious. — Early  Au- 
tumn. Tree  moderately  vigorous,  healthy,  hardy,  and 
productive. 

Beurre'  d'AnjOU  (Ns  PLUS  MEURIS  OF  THE  FRENCH). — 
Origin  Belgium.  Large  size,  short  or  blunt  pyriform ;  skin 
greenish  yellow,  with  traces  of  russet,  dull  crimson  dots 
and  sometimes  a  shade  of  crimson  in  the  sun ;  flesh  whit- 
ish, melting,  juicy,  brisk,  vinous,  perfumed,  pleasant. — 
Late  Autumn  to  early  Winter.  Tree  a  vigorous,  healthy 
grower,  making  an  open,  round-headed  tree,  that  bears 
its  fruit  evenly  distributed  and  of  uniform  size ;  one  of 
the  most  profitable  varieties  for  orchard  or  garden;  gen- 
erally regarded  as  one  of  the  most  valuable  pears  grown, 
succeeding  everywhere. 


360  SELECT   VARIETIES     OF    FRUITS. 

Beurrl  BOSC. — Origin  Belgium.  Large,  pyriform,  oi' 
long  pyriform;  dark  yellow,  often  much  covered  with 
dull  cinnamon  russet,  in  dots  or  streaks,  occasionally  a 
tinge  of  red  ;  flesh  white,  very  buttery,  melting,  rich,  and 
deliciously  perfumed. — Mid-Autumn.  Tree  a  healthy, 
good  grower,  but  often  irregular ;  not  an  early  but  an 
abundant  bearer,  producing  its  fruit  singly,  and  evenly 
distributed  on  the  tree ;  a  valuable  orchard  variety,  of 
splendid  appearance  and  finest  quality. 

Beurrtf  de  Brignais  (DES  NONNES,  etc.). — Medium 
size,  roundish,  flattened  ;  greenish,  with  many  dots ;  flesh 
melting,  juicy,  with  a  brisk,  high  perfumed  flavor. — Early 
Autumn.  Tree  a  hardy,  vigorous  grower,  productive. 

Beurrtf  Clairgeail, — Origin  France.  Large,  pyriform  ; 
yellow,  shaded  with  orange  and  crimson,  much  dotted 
and  sprinkled  with  russet ;  flesh  yellowish,  juicy,  buttery, 
a  little  granular,  sweet,  vinous,  perfumed. — Late  Autumn 
to  early  Winter.  Tree  very  vigorous,  with  erect  habit 
and  fine  foliage,  an  early  and  abundant  bearer,  and,  al- 
though a  little  variable  in  quality,  its  size,  beauty,  and 
productiveness  make  it  a  very  profitable  market  variety. 
In  some  cases  it  seems  disposed  to  shed  its  leaves  prema- 
turely— a  serious  defect. 

Beurrtf  Did* — Origin  Belgium.  Large,  obtuse,  pyri- 
form ;  skin  rather  rough,  rich  yellow  when  fully  and 
well  ripened,  some  russet ;  flesh  yellowish  white,  a  little 
coarse-grained,  buttery,  sugary,  half-melting,  delicious. — 
Early  to  late  Autumn.  Tree  very  vigorous,  and  an 
abundant  bearer ;  on  young  trees  the  fruit  is  sometimes 
not  first-rate,  but  with  age  it  assumes  its  true  character, 
and  is  one  of  the  most  profitable  market  sorts.  In  West- 
ern New  York  and  some  other  localities,  it  has  suffered 
in  some  seasons  from  the  black  rust  on  the  fruit,  and 
blighting  "  scalding  "  of  the  foliage. 

Hardy, — Large,   obtuse,   pyriform  ;    greenish, 


PEARS.  361 

covered  with  light  russet,  and  shaded  one  side  with 
brownish  red  ;  flesh  melting,  buttery,  juicy,  brisk,  vinous, 
slightly  astringent,  perfumed. — Early  Autumn.  Tree  a 
strong  grower,  with  erect  habit  and  ample  foliage,  very 
productive ;  a  beautiful  and  delicious  fruit,  worthy  of  more 
general  cultivation. 

Beurrtf  Supcrfin. — Origin  France.  Medium  size, 
roundish,  pyriform  ;  yellow,  with  bright  red  in  the  sun, 
and  some  russet;  flesh  buttery,  very  juicy,  melting, 
vinous,  sub-acid. — Mid- Autumn.  Tree  hardy,  a  moder- 
ately vigorous  grower,  not  an  early  but  a  good  bearer 
when  at  maturity ;  in  quality  it  is  among  the  best. 

BulToi* — Origin  Rhode  Island.  Medium  size,  obovate, 
oblong ;  deep  yellow,  when  fully  ripe,  with  re  1  covering 
nearly  one  side,  sometimes  a  little  russet ;  flesh  white, 
sweet,  moderately  juicy,  buttery,  pleasant. — Early  Au- 
tumn. Tree  a  strong,  upright  grower,  forming  a  beautiful, 
compact  head,  a  regular  and  productive  bearer,  hardy, 
and  valuable  for  the  orchard.  Tree  remarkable  for  its 
upright,  symmetrical,  and  vigorous  growth. 

Colt's  Beurrtf. — Origin  Ohio.  Medium,  obtuse,  pyri- 
form ;  yellow,  slightly  russet,  often  a  red  cheek ;  flesh 
white,  melting,  juicy,  rich,  vinous. — Early  Autumn.  Tree 
a  healthy,  good  grower,  an  early,  good  bearer;  makes  a 
fine,  round,  half-covnpact  head. 

De  Tongres  (DURANDEAU). — Origin  France.  Large, 
long,  pyriform;  pile  yellow,  with  cinnamon  russet,  which 
becomes  red  on  sun  side  ;  flesh  melting,  juicy,  vinous, 
sugary,  rich. — Mid-Autumn.  Tree  moderately  vigorous, 
an  early  and  abundant  bearer ;  a  large,  handsome  fruit, 
but  somewhat  variable  in  quality. 

DiXi — Origin    Massachusetts.     Large,  long,   pyriform', 

deep  yellow,  with  more  or   less  of  russet;    flesh  juicy, 

sugary,  melting,  slightly  perfumed. — Mid  to  late  Autumn. 

Tree  hardy,  vigorous,  a  tardy  bearer,  but  productive  when 

16 


362  SELECT    VARIETIES     OF    FRUITS. 

mature ;  a  fine  and  profitable  orchard  sort,  only  for  the 
serious  drawback  of  tardy  bearing,  on  account  of  which 
it  is  now  seldom  planted. 

Doctor  Reeder* — Origin  New  York.  Small  to  medium 
size,  roundish,  slightly  pyriform ;  yellow,  mostly  covered 
with  nettings  of  russet  and  russet  dots ;  flesh  fine,  melt- 
ing, juicy,  buttery,  sugary,  vinous,  slightly  musky. — Late 
Autumn.  Tree  a  healthy,  hardy,  vigorous,  open,  spread- 
ing grower,  productive  ;  comparatively  a  new  variety  of 
great  promise  ;  a  delicious  fruit,  valuable  for  the  amateur ; 
not  large  nor  showy  enough  for  market. 

Doyennl  BouSSOCk  (BEURRE  BOUSSOCK,  etc.). — Origin 
Belgium.  Large,  varying  in  form,  usually  roundish,  or 
obtuse  pyriform;  deep  yellow,  clouded  with  russet, 
bronzed  red  cheek  in  the  sun. — Early  Autumn.  Tree  very 
vigorous,  upright,  spreading  ;  an  early,  abundant  bearer ; 
profitable  for  market. 

Doyenntf  du  Cornice. — Origin  France.  Large,  broad, 
obtuse  pyriform  ;  greenish  yellow,  clear  yellow  at  ma- 
turity, some  russet ;  flesh  white,  melting,  juicy,  sweet, 
rich,  slightly  aromatic. — Late  Autumn.  Tree  moderately 
vigorous,  upright,  productive  ;  comparatively  new  and  of 
the  highest  promise. 

Doyenne'  Gray, — Medium  size,  obovate  ;  dull  yellow, 
mostly  covered  with  smooth  cinnamon  russet ;  flesh  very 
buttery,  fine-grained,  rich,  delicious. — Mid-Autumn.  Tree 
a  moderate,  healthy  grower,  a  good  bearer ;  very  valuable 
for  orchard  or  garden;  by  many  esteemed  superior  to 
White  Doyenne.  In  some  localities,  as  in  Western  New 
York,  both  these  varieties  are  often  rendered  worthless 
by  black  rust  and  cracking. 

Doyenne'  White  (BUTTER  PEAR,  VIRGALIEU,  and  thirty 
more  synonyms.) — Medium  to  large,  obovate ;  when  fully 
ripe,  pale  yellow,  often  with  a  fine,  red  cheek ;  flesh  white, 
fine-grained,  melting,  very  buttery,  rich,  delicious. — Early 


PEARS.  363 

to  late  Autumn.  Tree  a  healthy,  vigorous  grower,  hardy, 
productive;  unreliable  East  and  in  Western  New  York, 
but  in  the  new,  rich  soils  West,  one  of  the  best.  Twenty 
years  ago  this  was  regarded  as  the  best  of  all  pears  ;  now 
it  is  an  outcast  in  many  localities. 

Duchesse  d'AngOllleme, — Origin  France.  Large  to 
very  large,  oblong,  obovate  ;  dull  greenish  yellow,  with 
more  or  less  of  russet  spots  and  streaks;  flesh  white, 
buttery,  juicy,  excellent. — Mid-Autumn.  Tree  a  very 
vigorous  grower,  the  most  successful  on  the  quince,  pro- 
ductive and  very  profitable ;  has  gained  much  in  popu- 
larity in  a  few  years,  because  better  understood.  Is  now 
regarded  as  one  of  the  most  valuable  varieties-  cultivated ; 
it  is  next  to  Bartlett  in  popularity  among  the  market- 
growers  all  over  the  country. 

Emilc  d'Heyst, — Origin  Belgium.  Large,  oblong,  pyri- 
form;  clear  yello\v,  with  a  brownish  cheek  in  the  sun, 
netted  and  patched  with  russet ;  flesh  yellowish  white, 
juicy,  fine-grained,  melting,  sweet,  aromatic,  excellent. — 
Early  Winter.  Tree  a  vigorous,  spreading  grower,  hold- 
ing its  foliage  late  in  autumn,  very  productive ;  taking 
rank  as  a  valuable  early  winter  sort. 

Flemish  Beauty  (BELLE  BE  FLANDERS,  and  twenty 
more  synonyms). — Large,  roundish,  pyriform ;  yellow, 
mostly  covered  with  marblings  and  patches  of  light 
russet,  brownish  red  in  the  sun  ;  flesh  yellowish  white, 
juicy,  melting,  sweet,  rich,  slightly  musky. — Early  Au- 
tumn. Tree  hardy,  vigorous,  an  early  and  abundant 
bearer,  and  highly  valued  West  for  orchard  or  garden  ; 
sometimes  seriously  attacked  with  black  fungus  or  rust, 
and  cracking  in  New  York  and  Eastern  States. 

FultODi— Origin  Maine.  Below  medium  size,  roundish, 
flattened  ;  gray  russet,  becoming  at  maturity  dark  cinna- 
mon russet ;  flesh  moderately  juicy,  half-buttery,  spright- 
ly, agreeable. — Mid  to  late  Autumn.  Tree  a  moderate 


36 A  SELECT   VARIETIES     OF    FRUITS 

but  healthy  grower,  hardy,  and  productive;  valuable  for 
the  orchard. 

Howell. — Origin  Connecticut.  Rather  large,  roundish, 
pyriform;  light  yellow,  with  a  clear,  red  cheek;  flesh 
whitish,  juicy,  melting,  vinous. — Early  and  mid  Autumn. 
Tree  an  upright,  vigorous  grower,  an  early  and  abundant 
bearer ;  one  of  the  most  beautiful  and  excellent  of  pears, 
and  promising  to  be  ofgr^aTra;hre'over  aTarge  extent  o$ 
country  ;  beginning  to  be  much  planted  for  market  •  the 
fruit  bears  carriage  well. 

Jones  (JONES'S  SEEDLING). — Origin  Pennsylvania.  Me- 
dium or  below  in  size,  roundish,  pyriform  ;  yellow,  shaded 
with  russet,  bright  cinnamon  russet  in  the  sun  ;  flesh 
rather  coarse,  granular,  buttery,  sugary,  vinous. — Middle 
to  late  Autumn.  Tree  a  vigorous,  upright  grower,  and 
productive ;  a  fine  little  pear  for  the  amateur's  collection. 

Kir  Hand, — Origin  Ohio.  Medium,  roundish,  obovate ; 
rich  yellow,  much  covered  with  cinnamon  russet,  and  red 
on  sun  side ;  flesh  juicy,  melting,  sweet,  aromatic. — Early 
Autumn.  Tree  moderately  vigorous,  stocky,  healthy, 
and  productive. 

Louise  Bonne  de  Jersey, — Origin  France.  Large, 
long  pyriform  ;  greenish  yellow,  mostly  overspread  with 
brownish  red,  and  a  red  cheek  in  sun ;  flesh  melting,  very 
juicy,  rich,  vinous,  excellent. — Early  Autumn.  Tree  a 
rapid,  upright  grower,  and  abundant  bearer ;  one  of  the 
very  best  on  quince ;  a  profitable  market  pear  where  it  suc- 
ceeds. 

Merriam. — Origin  Massachusetts.  Medium,  roundish  ; 
dull  yellow,  with  more  or  less  of  russet ;  flesh  yellowish, 
rather  coarse,  melting,  juicy,  slightly  vinous,  musky. — 
Mid- Autumn.  Tree  vigorous,  very  productive ;  an  ex- 
ceedingly profitable  orchard  sort,  but  little  grown  out  of 
Massachusetts. 

Marlchal  de  la  Cour  (CONSEILLER  DE  LA  COUR,  etc.). — 


PEAKS.  365 

Origin  Belgium.  Medium  to  large  size,  pyriform ;  green- 
ish yellow,  with  more  or  less  russet ;  flesh  yellowish  white, 
melting,  buttery,  juicy,  rich,  vinous. — Mid-Autumn.  Tree 
moderately  vigorous,  holds  its  foliage  late  in  season,  a 
good  bearer. 

Onondaga  (SWAN'S  ORANOE). — This  pear  was  first 
introduced  by  the  late  General  Swan,  of  Rochester, 
N".  Y.,  under  the  name  of  "  Swan's  Orange,"  from 
Clinton,  N".  Y.,  but  it  was  supposed  to  be  traced  to  Con- 
necticut. Fruit  large,  obtuse,  pyriform,  surface  rather 
uneven ;  skin  orange  yellow  at  maturity,  with  traces  of 
russet  in  some  localities,  rarely  a  red  cheek ;  flesh  melt- 
ing, rather  coarse,  juicy,  vinous,  sometimes  slightly 
astringent,  a  little  variable  but  generally  excellent.  Tree 
a  strong  grower,  hardy,  and  very  productive. 

Paradise  d'Automne, — Origin  Belgium.  Large,  long 
pyriform ;  yellow,  mostly  covered  with  cinnamon  russet ; 
flesh  often  slightly  granular,  melting,  juicy,  with  a  rich, 
vinous,  aromatic  flavor. — Early  to  mid  Autumn.  Tree  a 
vigorous,  rather  irregular  grower,  an  early,  good  bearer ; 
fine  for  the  garden,  not  suited  to  orchard. 

Pratt. — Origin  Rhode  Island.  Medium,  roundish,  py- 
riform ;  greenish  lemon-yellow,  shaded  with  red  in  the 
sun  ;  flesh  juicy,  sugary,  melting,  briskly  vinous. — Early 
Autumn.  Tree  an  upright  grower,  very  productive. 

St.  Michael  Archangel. — Origin  France.  Large,  obo- 
vate,  pyriform;  p;ile  yellow,  netted  and  patched  with 
russet ;  flesh  buttery,  juicy,  melting,  slightly  aromatic. — 
Mid-Autumn.  Tree  a  vigorous,  symmetrical,  upright 
grower,  productive ;  a  beautiful  fruit,  but  variable  in 
quality,  generally  excellent. 

Seckcl. — Origin  Pennsylvania.  Small,  roundish,  ovate ; 
dull  yellow  brown,  with  a  russet  red  cheek  ;  flesh  buttery, 
very  juicy,  rich,  spicy,  aromatic. — Early  Autumn.  Tree 
a  slow  but  healthy,  hardy  grower,  upright,  forming  a 


366  SELECT    VARIETIES     OF     FRUITS. 

small,  compact  head ;  successful  and  well  known  every- 
where. Although  it  takes  a  little  more  time  to  bring 
this  variety  into  profitable  bearing  condition,  yet  it  is  a 
reliable  and  permanently  valuable  sort  for  orchard  or 
garden. 

Sheldon* — Origin  "New  York.  Medium,  roundish  ; 
greenish  yellow,  a  thin,  light  russet  and  a  bright  red  or 
crimson  in  the  sun;  flesh  very  juicy,  melting,  vinous, 
sweet,  aromatic.  Tree  hardy,  a  vigorous,  upright  grow- 
er, forming  a  handsome,  round  head,  a  good  bearer.  This 
noble  fruit,  like  some  other  varieties,  is  often  condemned 
as  rotting  at  the  core,  but  it  only  requires  to  be  gathered 
early  and  used  when  ripe,  like  Flemish  Beauty,  Clapp's 
Favorite,  Beurre  Giflard,  and  others. 

SouTCnir  d'Esperen, — Origin  France.  Medium  to 
large,  long  pyriform ;  greenish  yellow,  mostly  covered 
with  russet;  flesh  yellowish,  juicy,  vinous,  aromatic. — 
Mid  to  late  Autumn.  Tree  vigorous,  healthy,  and  hardy, 
holds  its  foliage  late  in  the  season,  productive. 

Stevens'  Genesec. — Origin  New  York.  Large,  round- 
ish ;  yellow ;  flesh  half-buttery,  rich,  aromatic  flavor. — 
Early  Autumn.  Tree  a  healthy,  good  grower,  and  pro- 
ductive. It  is  not  as  popular  as  formerly  in  Western 
New  York,  but  West,  and  especially  in  light  soils,  it  is 
one  of  the  profitable  sorts ;  needs  to  be  gathered  early 
and  used  as  soon  as  ripe. 

Urfoaniste  (BEURRE  PICQUERY,  etc.). — Medium  to  large 
size,  roundish,  pyriform ;  pale  yellow,  with  some  russet ; 
flesh  very  melting,  buttery,  juicy,  rich,  and  delicately 
perfumed. — Early  and  mid  Autumn.  Tree  a  moderate, 
vigorous,  compact,  pyramidal  grower,  very  hardy,  not  an 
early  bearer,  but  an  abundant  one  at  maturity  ;  very  val- 
uable and  profitable  for  the  orchard. 

Washington* — Origin  Delaware.  Medium  size,  oval ; 
clear,  lemon  yellow,  with  some  red  in  sun  and  reddish 


PEARS.  367 

clots ;  flesh  very  juicy,  sweet,  melting,  agreeable. — Early 
Autumn.  Tree  a  slender  but  healthy  and  vigorous 
grower,  and  a  good  bearer ;  this  is  one  of  our  native 
pears  that  has  been  too  much  overlooked  ;  a  very  beauti- 
ful and  excellent  variety  for  the  amateur's  collection. 

CLASS    HI. WINTER    PEARS. 

Beurrtf  Easter  (DOYENNE  D'HIVER,  and  a  dozen  or 
more  other  synonyms).  Large,  roundish,  oval ;  yellowish, 
more  or  less  of  russet  in  dots,  which  sometimes  gives  it  a 
brownish  cheek ;  flesh  fine-grained,  very  buttery,  melting, 
and  juicy,  sweet,  and  rich. — Very  late  Winter,  we  have 
often  kept  it  until  April.  The  tree  is  a  moderate  grower, 
making  a  compact,  upright,  round  head,  bearing  abun- 
dantly. It  is  one  of  the  best  sorts  for  the  South  and 
South-west,  but  requires  warm  exposure  when  grown 
North  and  East.  Everywhere  it  requires  good,  rich  soil, 
good  culture,  and  careful  thinning  of  the  fruit  to  bring  it 
to  perfection. 

Beiii-rtf  Gris  d'Hiver  Nouveau, — Medium  to  large, 
roundish,  obtuse ;  rich  yellow  russet,  with  a  fine,  sunny 
cheek  of  dark  red ;  flesh  slightly  granular,  buttery,  melt- 
ing, rich,  sugary. — Early  to  mid  Winter.  Tree  a  moder- 
ately vigorous  grower,  somewhat  irregular,  good  bearer ; 
a  noble  fruit,  worthy  of  careful  treatment. 

Beurrtf  d'Aremberg  (Due  D'AREMBERG,  etc.). — Origin 
France.  Medium  to  large,  obovate,  uneven  surface ; 
greenish  yellow,  yellow  at  maturity  with  some  russet ; 
flesh  white,  buttery,  juicy,  rich,  vinous. — Early  Winter. 
Tree  a  slow  grower  and  unhealthy ;  a  delicious  winter 
pear,  but  seldom  planted,  on  account  of  its  serious  defects. 

Cat  iliac. — Large,  or  very  large,  broad,  turbinate ;  yel- 
lowish, with  a  brown  cheek ;  flesh  firm. — Early  to  late 
Winter.  Tree  a  strong  grower  and  good  bearer,  best  in 


368  SELECT    VARIETIES     OF    FRUITS. 

rich  soil,  and  valued  as  a  baking  or  cooking  pear,  and  for 
confectionary  purposes. 

Columbia* — Origin  New  York.  Large,  obovatc ;  pale 
green  in  autumn,  becoming  golden  yellow  at  maturity, 
with  deep  orange  cheek  in  sun  exposure ;  flesh  juicy, 
sweet,  aromatic. — Early  Winter.  Tree  an  upright,  hand- 
some grower,  and  a  good  bearer.  Fruit  liable  to  be 
blown  off,  needs  watching. 

Dana9S  Hovey, — Origin  Massachusetts.  Small,  obovate, 
pyriform;  pale  yellow,  netted  and  patched  with  russet; 
flesh  yellowish,  melting,  juicy,  rich,  sugary,  aromatic. — 
Early  Winter.  Tree  a  healthy,  vigorous  grower,  hardy, 
and  productive ;  a  high-flavored,  delicious  pear  for  the 
garden ;  too  small  for  profitable  market  growing,  though 
it  commands  high  prices  where  known,  like  the  Seckel. 

Doyenntf  d'Alen^on  (DOYEXNE  D'HIVER,  D'ALEX^OX, 

etc.). — Medium,  roundish,  slightly  pyriform ;  yellow, 
shaded  in  sun  with  dark  crimson,  considerable  russet ; 
flesh  granular,  buttery,  juicy,  sugary,  sprightly,  per- 
fumed.— Middle  to  late  Winter,  often  keeping  until 
spring.  Tree  moderately  vigorous  and  productive;  a 
valuable  pear,  like  the  Easter  Beurre,  though  not  in  same 
degree ;  needs  high  culture  and  thinning  of  the  fruit  to 
bring  it  to  perfection ;  tree  more  hardy  than  Easter 
Beurre. 

GlOllt  Morceau. — Flemish  origin.  Kather  large,  often 
very  large,  varying  in  form,  usually  short,  pyriform; 
greenish  yellow,  with  patches  and  dots  of  greenish  brown ; 
flesh  white,  fine-grained,  buttery,  melting,  rich,  sugary. — 
Early  Winter.  Tree  is  of  a  roundish,  spreading  habit, 
very  healthy  and  hardy,  not  an  early  bearer,  but  when 
mature  produces  an  abundant  crop,  regular  and  uniform. 
It  is  distinct  in  wood  and  foliage  from  other  varieties,  and 
forms  one  of  the  handsomest  of  pyramids  on  quince  roots. 
In  localities  where  the  pear  blight  prevails  it  seems  pecu- 


PEAES.  369 

liarly  liable  to  attack,  and  recently  has  not  been  much 
planted. 

Josephine  de  Malines. — Medium  size,  roundish,  flat- 
tened ;  pale  yellow  or  straw  color  at  maturity,  sometimes 
netted  and  patched  with  russet ;  flesh  white,  tinted  with 
rose,  juicy,  melting,  sweet,  slight  aroma. — Mid- Winter, 
often  keeps  until  Spring.  Tree  a  moderate  grower,  hardy, 
foliage  small,  quite  productive ;  a  very  valuable  late  pear, 
and  rapidly  gaining  in  popularity. 

Lawrence, — Origin  Long  Island.  Medium  or  above 
in  size,  obovate,  obtuse  pyriform;  clear,  light  yellow, 
with  more  or  less  of  russet ;  flesh  juicy,  melting,  sweet, 
aromatic. — Early  Winter.  Tree  a  moderate  grower, 
healthy,  and  a  good  bearer ;  valuable  both  for  garden  and 
orchard.  It  usually  commands  the  highest  price  in 
market ;  one  of  the  most  valuable  early  winter  sorts. 

Fvedale's  St.  Germain  (POUND,  and  over  thirty  other 
synonyms). — Large,  pyriform ;  yellowish  green ;  flesh 
firm,  excellent  for  baking  or  stewing. — Early  to  late 
Winter.  Tree  a  strong,  healthy  grower,  very  productive ; 
valued  everywhere  for  cooking  or  preserving. 

Vicar  Of  Winkfield  (LA.  CUBE,  and  two  dozen  more 
synonyms).  Origin  France.  Large,  long  pyriform  ;  pale 
yellow  at  maturity,  often,  when  well  grown,  with  a 
brownish  red  cheek  ;  flesh  moderately  juicy,  half-buttery, 
sprightly  and  good. — Early  to  mid  or  late  Winter.  Tree 
a  healthy,  vigorous  grower,  and  very  productive ;  this  is 
one  of  the  most  profitable  as  an  orchard  sort  among  the 
whole  list  of  pears,  but  needs  to  be  well  grown  to  be 
good ;  trees  are  apt  to  be  overladen  and  should  be 
thinned. 

Winter  Nelis  (BONNE  DE  MALiNES,etc.). — Medium  size, 

or  below,  roundish,  obovate;   yellowish  green,  patched 

and  marbled  with  considerable  russet ;  flesh  fine-grained, 

buttery,  very  juicy,   sugary,  aromatic. — Early   Winter. 

16* 


370  SELECT   VARIETIES     OF    FBUITS. 

Tree  thrifty,  hardy,  rather  slender  and  somewhat  irregular 
grower,  an  early  and  regularly  abundant  bearer ;  valuable 
for  the  garden  or  amateur  culture,  but  not  profitable  in 
the  orchard.  The  crop  usually  needs  thinning,  especially 
on  trees  of  considerable  age  ;  fruit  is  always  inferior  when 
the  tree  is  overloaded,  but  this  applies  to  nearly  all  varie- 
ties, though  not  in  the  same  degree. 

CLASS   IV. 

Varieties  of  pears  scarcely  entitled  to  a  place  on 
tho  select  list,  and  too  good  to  be  omitted.  Some  are 
very  popular  and  valuable  in  certain  localities;  others  are 
new,  or  comparatively  new,  and  promising.  This  list 
might  have  been  greatly  extended. 

Abbott. — Medium,  pyriform;-  yellowish,  shaded  with 
red;  white,  granular,  juicy,  buttery,  melting. — Septem- 
ber. Rhode  Island. 

Adams. — Large,  obovate,  pyriform;  greenish  yellow, 
russet  and  red  cheek  ;  very  juicy,  melting,  vinous. — Sep- 
tember. Massachusetts. 

Andrews. — Rather  large,  pyriform;  yellowish  green, 
with  a  dull  red  cheek ;  juicy,  melting,  fine,  vinous  flavor. 
— September.  Massachusetts. 

Andre  DcsportCS. — Medium,  roundish,  pyriform ;  green- 
ish yellow,  bronzed  in  sun ;  melting,  fine,  juicy,  sugary. — 
July.  France — new. 

ISeurrc  d'Amanlis. — Large,  roundish ;  dull  yellow 
green,  reddish  brown  cheek  ;  flesh  yellowish,  coarse,  but- 
tery, melting  ;  unreliable  in  quality,  good  old  market 
sort. — September. 

Beurrtf  d'Allgletem, — Medium,  pyriform  ;  dull  green, 
netted  with  russet ;  buttery,  melting,  juicy,  pleasant. — 
September.  France.  New. 

d'Albret. — Medium,  long   pyriform;    yellow, 


PEAKS.  3T1 

with    cinnamon    russet  ;    very   juicy,   buttery,   melting, 
vinous.  —  October.     An  excellent  fruit. 


Brown.  —  Large,  obovate,  oblong;  yellowish 
green,  with  reddish  brown  and  russet  ;  flesh  white,  melt- 
ing, buttery,  extremely  juicy,  sub  -acid.  —  September. 
France.  A  fine  old  sort,  often  excellent,  but  too  variable. 

Beurrtf  Durand.  —  Medium,  oblong,  pyriform  ;  yellow, 
with  splashes  of  red  in  the  sun  ;  fine,  melting,  sugary, 
vinous.  —  September.  France. 

Beurrtf  Golden  Of  Bilboa.  —  Medium,  obovate,  pyri- 
form ;  yellow,  slight  russet  ;  very  buttery,  melting,  fine- 
grained, vinous.  —  September.  Spain. 

Beurrtf  Mauxion,  —  Medium,  roundish,  pyriform;  yel- 
low russet,  with  a  red  cheek  ;  fine,  buttery,  melting,  juicy, 
sugary,  vinous,  perfumed.  —  September.  Belgium. 

Beurrtf  del'Assomption,  —  Large,  short  pyriform  ;  lemon 
yellow,  some  russet;  fine,  melting,  juicy,  vinous,  per- 
fumed. —  August.  France.  Tree  a  vigorous  grower;  a 
promising  new  sort. 

Beurre"  Moire,  —  Large,  oblong,  pyriform;  greenish 
yellow,  tinge  of  red  in  sun  ;  granular,  buttery,  melting, 
fine,  rich,  perfumed.  October.  France. 

Bcrgamotte  d'Espertfn,  —  Origin  France.  Medium  size, 
roundish,  flattened,  or  flat  ;  skin  thick,  rough  ;  greenish 
yellow,  russet  patches  ;  flesh  greenish  yellow,  sweet,  juicy, 
rich.  Tree  healthy,  vigorous,  and  productive. 

Bezi  Esperen.  —  Large,  roundish,  pyriform;  dull  yel- 
low, some  russet  ;  juicy,  sprightly,  vinous.  —  October. 
France. 

Bezi  de  Montigny  (COMPTESSE  DE  Lux  AT,  etc.).  —  Me- 
dium size,  roundish,  obovate;  yellowish  green;  flesh 
melting,  half-buttery,  juicy,  sweet,  musky.  —  Mid-  Autumn. 
Tree  vigorous,  healthy,  productive. 


372  SELECT   VARIETIES     OF    FRUITS. 

Black  Worcester, — Largo,  pyrifbrm;  green,  nearly 
covered  with  russet,  coarse;  valued  for  cooking. — Winter. 

77  O 

Bonne  Sophia* — Medium,  acute,  pyriform ;  pale  yellow, 
shade  of  crimson,  nettings  of  russet ;  juicy,  fine,  melting, 
sweet,  perfumed. — October.  France.  New  and  prom- 
ising. 

Bonne  de  PuitS  d'Ansault.  —  Medium,  roundish ; 
bronzed  yellow ;  slightly  gritty,  melting,  juicy,  sugary, 
musky,  agreeable,  of  fine  quality. — September.  France. 

Caen  de  France. — Medium,  short  pyriform  ;  yellow, 
with  dull  russet ;  fine-grained,  juicy,  melting,  vinous, 
aromatic. — December,  February.  France.  A  variety  of 
great  excellence. 

Church, — Below  medium,  flattened ;  greenish  yellow; 
very  buttery,  melting,  rich,  sweet,  perfumed. — September. 

Comte  de  Flandre, — Large,  long,  pyriform;  yellow- 
ish russet ;  very  buttery,  melting,  juicy,  rich,  sweet. — 
October.  Belgium. 

Doctor  Lindley, — Medium,  obovate,  pyriform  ;  yellow, 
with  slight  russet ;  melting,  sweet,  perfumed. — Novem- 
ber, December. — France.  New  and  promising. 

Duchess  d'Orleans  (ST.  NICHOLAS,  etc.).  —  Origin 
France.  Above  medium  size,  long,  pyriform ;  yellowish 
green,  with  sometimes  a  red  cheek;  flesh  melting,  juicy, 
slightly  aromatic. — Early  Autumn.  Tree  an  upright, 
moderate  gVower,  and  a  good  bearer;  a  handsome  and 
excellent  amateur  sort. 

Duchess  Precoce, — Large,  pyriform  ;  greenish  yellow, 
becoming  clear  yellow ;  melting,  juicy,  sprightly,  although 
not  rich. — September.  France.  New  and  promising. 

Due  de  Brabant  (B.  DE  WATERLOO,  FONDANTE  DES 
CHARNEUSE). — Origin  Belgium.  Large,  pyriform  ;  green- 
ish, with  crimson  red  in  the  sun  ;  flesh  very  juicy,  but- 
tery, melting,  vinous. — Mid  to  late  Autumn.  Tree  vigor- 
ous, hardy,  and  productive. 


PEAKS.  873 

Dlichesse  dc  Bordeaux, — Medium,  roundish,  pyriform  ; 
yellow,  with  considerable  russet ;  moderately  juicy,  sweet, 
pleasant,  scarcely  melting. — January.  France. 

Edmonds* — Origin  Monroe  County,  N".  Y.  Large, 
roundish,  pyriform,  with  a  very  long  stalk ;  yellow,  or 
straw  color,  with  occasionally  bronzed  red  in  the  sun  ; 
flesh  fine-grained,  buttery,  melting,  sweet,  with  a  peculiar 
and  very  agreeable  aroma  ;  quality  variable,  especially  on 
young  trees. — Early  Autumn.  Tree  a  remarkably  strong, 
upright  grower,  and  an  abundant  bearer. 

General  Tottleben, — Medium  to  large,  obtuse,  pyri- 
form ;  greenish  yellow,  patched  with  russet ;  whitish  yel- 
low, a  little  coarse,  melting,  juicy,  slightly  aromatic. — 
October.  Belgium. 

General  Taylor  (HOMEWOOD). — Medium,  obtuse,  pyri- 
form; yellow,  crimson  in  sun,  nettings  and  patches 
of  russet ;  a  little  coarse,  juicy,  melting,  sweet. — October. 
Maryland. 

Gratioli  Of  Jersey. — Medium,  roundish,  pyriform; 
greenish  yellow,  netted  and  patched  with  russet;  juicy, 
rich,  melting,  vinous. — September.  Isle  of  Jersey. 

Henry  the  Fourth, — Below  medium,  roundish,  pyri- 
form ;  greenish  yellow,  with  gray  specks ;  not  fine- 
grained, juicy,  melting,  perfumed. — September.  France. 
An  old  variety. 

Henri  Desportes* — Large,  pyriform  ;  yellowish  green ; 
juicy,  melting,  sweet.  August.  Tree  a  moderate  grow- 
er.— France.  New. 

Jalousie  de  Fontenay  Vendee, — Origin  France.  Me- 
dium size,  long,  pyriform ;  dull  yellow  and  green,  a  red 
cheek  and  some  russet ;  flesh  white,  melting,  buttery, 
rich. — Mid-Autumn.  Tree  a  vigorous  grower  and  early 
and  abundant  bearer. 

Jules  Bivort, — Medium  to  large,  pyriform ;  yellowish, 
with  more  or  less  russet ;  very  juicy,  buttery,  sweet,  melt- 
ing, vinous. — October. 


374  SELECT   VARIETIES     OF    FRUITS. 


.  —  Large,  obtuse,  pyriform  ;  greenish  yel- 
low; rather  coarse,  juicy,  buttery,  melting,  sweet.  —  Sep- 
tember. Pennsylvania. 

Livingston  Virgalieu,  —  Medium,  roundish  ;  greenish 
yellow  ;  whitish,  juicy,  sweet,  pleasant.  —  September. 
Pennsylvania. 

Madam  Eliza.  —  Large,  acute,  pyriform  ;  light  yellow, 
traces  of  russet  ;  fine,  juicy,  melting,  sweet,  perfumed.  — 
October.  Tree  a  good  grower.  Belgium. 

Maurice  Desportes,  —  Medium  to  large,  acute  pyri- 
form ;  dull  yellow,  with  russet  ;  fine-grained,  melting, 
sweet.  —  October.  Tree  a  vigorous  grower  and  produc- 
tive. France.  New. 

Marie  Louise.  —  Large,  long  pyriform;  yellow,  mottled 
with  russet  ;  very  buttery,  melting,  vinous,  sweet.  —  Octo- 
ber. Belgium.  A  fine,  old  sort,  but  variable  in  some 
localities. 

Marie  Louise  d'Uccles,  —  Above  medium,  roundish, 
pyriform  ;  yellow,  shaded  with  brown  in  sun,  netted  and 
patched  with  russet;  juicy,  melting,  vinous,  a  little 
astringent.  —  September.  Belgium.  New. 

Mount  Vernon.  —  Medium  or  above,  roundish,  pyriform  ; 
russet  011  yellow,  brown  red  in  sun  ;  granulated,  juicy, 
melting,  slightly  vinous,  peculiar  flavor.  —  November. 
Massachusetts.  A  promising,  new  American  sort. 

Nantais  (BEURRE  DE  NANTES).  —  Large,  long,  pyriform  ; 
greenish  yellow,  with  a  red  cheek;  melting,  juicy,  sweet, 
pleasantly  perfumed.  —  October.  France. 

Nouveau  Poitean.  —  Origin  Belgium.  Large,  pyriform  ; 
greenish,  with  patches  and  dots  of  russet  ;  flesh  whitish, 
buttery,  melting,  juicy,  sugary,  vinous.  —  Late  Autumn. 
Tree  a  very  vigorous,  upright  grower,  and  productive  ;  a 
beautiful  tree  and  a  noble  fruit,  but  quality  variable,  often 
pasty  and  insipid. 


PEARS.  375 

OswegO  Beurrtf. — Origin  New  York.  Medium,  round- 
ish, flattened  ;  yellowish  green,  with  thin  russet  until  fully 
ripe,  then  fine,  yellow  russet ;  flesh  melting,  buttery,  juicy, 
vinous,  aromatic. — Mid  to  late  Autumn.  Tree  erect, 
moderately  vigorous,  and  a  great  bearer  even  when  young, 
sometimes  cracks. 

Ott. — Small,  roundish  ;  light  yellow ;  melting,  sugary, 
aromatic. — August.  Pennsylvania. 

Platt. — Medium,  roundish,  flattened ;  pale  yellow,  con- 
siderable russet ;  buttery,  juicy,  half-melting,  pleasant. — 
October.  New  York. 

Petite  Marguerite,— Medium,  obovate;  greenish  yel- 
low; sweet,  juicy,  vinous. — August.  France.  New  and 
promising. 

Pitmaston  Duchess,— Large,  pyriform  ;  yellow,  with 
patches  of  cinnamon  russet ;  melting,  juicy,  rich,  delicate 
perfume. — October  and  November.  New  and  promising. 

Pius  the  9th, — Above  medium,  roundish,  long,  pyri- 
form; yellow,  considerable  russet;  juicy,  a  little  firm, 
melting,  brisk,  vinous.  October.  Belgium.  Variable. 

Rapelje'S  Seedling. — Medium,  obovate  to  pyriform; 
yellowish,  mostly  covered  with  gray  russet ;  juicy,  some- 
what granular,  melting,  sweet,  vinous. — September.  Long 
Island.  An  excellent  fruit. 

Rutter, — Medium  to  large,  roundish ;  greenish  yellow, 
considerable  russet ;  moderately  juicy,  a  little  gritty,  al- 
most melting,  sweet. — October.  Pennsylvania.  New  and 
promising. 

St,  Ghislain, — Medium,  pyriform ;  clear,  pale  yellow  ; 
buttery,  juicy,  sprightly,  rich. — October.  Belgium.  A 
fine,  old  sort,  but  rather  superseded  by  others  of  same 
season  larger  and  more  attractive. 

Souvenir  du  Congres, — Large ;  beautiful  yellow,  with 


376  SELECT   VARIETIES     OF    FRUITS. 

bright  red  in  the  sun  ;   melting,  juicy,  musky. — Septem- 
ber.    France.     New  and  highly  commended  abroad. 

Williams  d'Hiver, — Large,  pyriform;  greenish  yellow, 
firm  ;  moderately  juicy,  vinous,  slightly  sweet. — January. 
France.  This  purports  to  be  a  winter  Bartlett,  and  has 
been  highly  commended. 

SELECT  ASSORTMENTS  OP  PEARS. 

To  aid  the  inexperienced  amateur  in  making  up  small 
assortments : 

TWELVE  VARIETIES  ON  PEAR  STOCKS.  —  Bartlett, 
Clapp's  Favorite,  Doyenne  d'Ete,  Beurre  Bosc,  Lawrence, 
Beurre  d'Anjou,  Seckel,  Winter  Nelis,  Dana's  Hovey, 
Sheldon,  Paradise  d'Automne,  Doyenne  Boussock. 

TWELVE  VARIETIES  ON  QUINCE  STOCKS. — Beurre  d'An- 
jou, Duchess  d'Angouleme,  Louise  Bonne  de  Jersey, 
Ho  well,  Urbaniste,  White  Doyenne  (where  it  succeeds), 
Vicar  of  Winkfield,  Doyenne  d'Alen9on,  Brandywine, 
Tyson,  Kostiezer,  Josephine  de  Malines. 

TWENTY-FIVE  VARIETIES  FOR  THE  GARDEN  ON  QUINCE. 
— Bartlett,  Rostiezer,  Tyson,  Beurre  d'Anjou,  Beurre  Diel, 
Belle  Lucrative,  Beurre  d'Amanlis,  Duchess  d'Angouleme, 
Doyenne  White  (where  it  succeeds),  Doyenne  Gray, 
Louise  Bonne  de  Jersey,  Seckel,  Onondaga,  Urbaniste, 
Beurre  Easter,  Beurre  Gris  d'Hiver,  Glout  Morceau, 
Vicar  of  Winkfield,  Josephine  de  Malines,  Uvedale's  St. 
Germain,  Beurre  Superfin,  Beurre  Hardy,  Howell, 
Brandywine,  Doyenne  d'Alen9on. 

FOR  PROFIT  ON  QUINCE  STOCK. — Duchess  d'Angou- 
leme, Louise  Bonne  de  Jersey,  Beurre  d'Anjou,  Howell, 
and  White  Doyenne  where  it  succeeds. 


QUINCES.  377 

SECTION  3.— QUINCES. 

Apple-Shaped  or  Orange. — Large,  roundish,  with  a 
short  neck ;  of  a  bright  golden  yellow  color ;  tree  has 
rather  slender  shoots  and  oval  leaves ;  very  productive. 
This  is  the  variety  most  extensively  cultivated  for  the 
fruit. — Ripe  in  October. 

Pear-Shaped. — This  has  generally  more  of  a  pyriform 
shape  than  the  preceding ;  the  fruit  is  larger,  the  tree 
stronger. 

Portugal* — The  fruit  of  this  is  more  oblong  than  the 
preceding,  of  a  lighter  color  and  better  quality  ;  the 
shoots  are  stouter,  and  the  leaves  thicker  and  broader ; 
usually  propagated  by  budding  or  grafting.  A  week  or 
two  later  than  the  Apple.  A  shy  bearer. 

Angers. — The  strongest  grower  of  all  the  quinces,  and 
the  best  for  pear  stocks.  The  fruit  is  much  like  the 
orange  in  appearance ;  later,  keeps  longer.  The  tree 
does  not  bear  as  young,  but  when  once  it  reaches  matu- 
rity is  a  good,  regular  bearer. 

Rea's  Seedling  (REA'S  MAMMOTH,  VAN  SLYKE).  Native 
of  Greene  County,  N.  Y. — A  magnificent  fruit,  averaging 
mucU  larger  than  the  Apple-shaped  or  Orange,  resembles 
it  in  appearance,  and  by  some  preferred  for  culinary 
purposes. 

Chinese i — Usually  cultivated  for  ornament.  Quite  dif- 
ferent in  appearance  from  the  others.  The  leaves  are 
glossy,  sharply  and  beautifully  toothed  ;  the  fruit  is  large, 
oblong,  bright  yellow,  and  keeps  until  spring ;  little  used. 
The  flowers  are  large  and  showy,  with  the  fragrance  of 
the  violet;  worked  on  the  other  sorts;  rather  tender,  re" 
quiring  a  sheltered  situation.  A  very  tardy  bearer. 

Japan. — This  is  very  distinct  from  all  the  others  ;  very 
bushy,  thorny,  and  hardy.  There  are  several  varieties, 
all  of  which  may  be  reckoned  among  the  most  beautiful 


378  SELECT    VARIETIES     OF    FRUITS. 

of  all  our  hardy  spring  flowering  shrubs.     Fruit  about  as 
large  as  a  chicken's  egg ;  unfit  for  use. 


SECOND  DIVISION.— STONE  FRUITS— APRICOTS,  CHER- 
RIES, PEACHES,  NECTARINES,  AND  PLUMS. 

SECTION  4. — SELECT  APRICOTS. 

Alberge  de  Montgamet  (MOXTGAMET).— Medium  size ; 
pale  yellow,  with  tinge  of  red  in  the  sun  ;  flesh  yellowish, 
adhering  to  the  stone ;  juicy,  perfumed,  excellent.  The 
tree  is  a  hardy,  fine  grower. — Last  of  July. 

Beauge. — Resembles  Moorpark,  but  ripens  later. 

Blenheim  (SHIPLEY). — Medium  size,  oval ;  orange  yel- 
low ;  flesh  juicy,  moderately  rich. — Ripens  eight  or  ten 
days  before  Moorpark. 

Breda* — Small,  round,  dull  orange,  marked  witli  red  in 
the  sun,  flesh  orange-colored,  juicy,  rich  and  vinous ;  parts 
from  the  stone,  kernel  sweet,  tree  hardy,  robust,  and  pro- 
lific.— End  of  July  and  beginning  of  August. 

(  anino  Grosso. — Large  ;  orange  color,  becoming  red  in 
the  sun  ;  flesh  reddish  yellow,  high-flavored. — Middle  of 
July.  Tree  vigorous,  hardy. 

Early  Golden  (Dusois). — Small;  pale  orange;  flesh 
orange,  juicy  and  sweet ;  kernel  sweet ;  tree  very  hardy 
and  productive.  The  original  tree  at  Fishkill  is  said  to 
have  yielded  890  worth  of  fruit  in  one  season. — Begin- 
ning of  July. 

Early  Moorpark. — Resembles  Moorpark,  but  ripens 
earlier.  Medium  size,  roundish,  oval ;  yellow,  mottled 
with  crimson  in  the  sun. 


APKICOTS.  379 

HemskirkCt — A  large  English  variety,  much  like  Moor- 
park,  but  ripens  a  little  earlier.  It  is  known  by  its  stone 
not  being  perforated,  as  is  that  of  the  Moorpark. 

Kaislta* — A  variety  from  Syria;  requires  a  warm, 
sheltered  location ;  medium  size,  roundish ;  yellow,  mot- 
tled and  tinged  with  red  in  the  sun ;  flesh  tender,  sugary, 
high-flavored ;  separating  freely  from  the  stone. — Last  of 
July. 

Large  Early, — Large ;  orange,  with  a  red  cheek  ;  flesh 
sweet,  rich  and  excellent ;  parts  from  the  stone ;  tree  vig- 
orous and  productive. — Beginning  of  August. 

Moorpark. — One  of  the  largest  and  finest  apricots; 
yellow,  with  a  red  cheek;  flesh  orange,  sweet,  juicy  and 
rich ;  parts  from  the  stone  ;  growth  rather  slow,  but  stout 
and  short-jointed  ;  very  productive. 

Orange, — Medium  size;  orange,  with  a  ruddy  cheek; 
flesh  rather  dry,  requires  ripening  in  the  house ;  adheres 
slightly  to  the  stone. — End  of  July. 

Peach, — A  very  large,  handsome,  and  excellent  variety, 
quite  similar  to  the  Moorpark ;  the  shoots  are  not  so  short- 
jointed,  and  the  fruit  a  degree  larger. 

Red  Masculine  (EARLY  MASCULINE,  etc.). — Small,  near- 
ly round;  well-marked  suture  one  side;  bright  yellow, 
tinged  with  deep  orange,  and  spotted  with  dark  red ; 
flesh  juicy,  musky,  pleasant;  the  earliest  to  ripen. — Early 
in  July.  Tree  hardy  and  a  good  bearer. 

Saint  Ambroise, — Large  ;  deep  yellow,  reddish  next  the 
sun;  flesh  juicy,  rich  and  sweet. — Middle  of  August. 

Sardinian* — Small ;  white,  with  a  red  cheek ;  moder- 
ately juicy. — Very  early  in  July.  Tree  productive. 

Turkey, — Medium  to  large,  nearly  round  ;  deep  yellow, 
mottled  with  orange  in  sun  ;  flesh  pale  yellow,  firm,  juicy, 
excellent. — Middle  August. 


380                 SELECT  VARIETIES   OF  F11UITS. 
SECTION    5. — SELECT    CHERRIES. 
CLASS  I. HEART  CHERRIES. 

Fruit  heart-shaped,  with  tender,  sweet  flesh.  Trees  of 
rapid  growth,  with  large,  soft-drooping  leaves. 

Belle  d'Orleans, — Origin  France.  Medium  size,  round- 
ish, heart-shape ;  pale  yellow,  partially  covered  with  red  ; 
flesh  very  tender,  juicy,  sweet  and  delicious. — Early  in 
June,  or  immediately  after  Early  Purple  Guigne.  Tree  a 
fine  grower  and  an  abundant  bearer ;  one  of  the  finest 
early  varieties. 

Black  Eagle. — Origin  England.  Rather  above  medium 
size,  obtuse,  heart-shape ;  deep  purplish  black  ;  flesh  deep 
purple,  tender,  with  a  rich,  high-flavored  juice. — Early  in 
July,  or  just  after  Black  Tartarian.  Tree  a  strong  grow- 
er, a  moderate  bearer  while  young,  productive  when  old. 

Black  Tartarian. — Origin  Russia.  Very  large,  heart- 
shape,  uneven  on  the  surface ;  purplish  black ;  flesh  half- 
tender,  very  juicy,  mild,  delicious. — Last  of  June.  Tree 
very  vigorous,  upright,  very  productive ;  one  of  the  most 
popular  and  productive  varieties  in  all  parts  of  the  coun- 
try ;  always  commands  the  highest  price  in  market. 

Coe'S  Transparent. — Origin  Connecticut.  Medium 
size,  round ;  skin  glossy,  pale  amber,  mottled  and  spotted 
with  carnelian  red ;  flesh  very  tender,  juicy,  sweet  and 
delicate. — Middle  to  last  of  June.  Tree  a  vigorous  grow- 
er, forming  a  handsome,  round  head,  very  productive  ; 
this  is  one  of  the  best  of  dessert  cherries,  but  too  tender 
for  marketing. 

Delicate* — Origin  Ohio.  Rather  above  medium,  round- 
ish ;  clear  amber  yellow,  with  a  rich,  bright  red  in  sun  ex- 
posure ;  flesh  very  tender,  juicy,  sweet,  with  a  rich,  high 
flavor. — Last  of  June.  Tree  a  thrifty,  spreading  grower, 
productive  ;  most  valuable  for  family  use. 


CHERRIES.  381 

Downer's  Late  Red. — Origin  Massachusetts.  Medium, 
roundish ;  clear,  lively  red,  mottled  with  amber ;  flesh 
tender,  juicy,  sprightly,  a  little  bitter  unless  fully  ripe, 
when  it  is  sweet  and  fine. — Early  to  middle  July.  Tree 
very  hardy,  a  fine,  erect  grower,  very  productive ;  the 
fruit  is  borne  in  clusters,  and  will  hang  for  a  considerable 
time  on  the  tree. 

Early  Purple  Guigne. — Medium  size,  roundish,  heart- 
shape  ;  dark  red,  purplish  when  mature;  flesh  purple, 
juicy,  tender,  rich  and  sweet. — Early  in  June.  Tree  a 
free  but  slender  grower  while  young,  hardy,  and  makes  a 
fine,  spreading,  open  head,  bearing  very  abundantly ;  it  is 
indispensable  as  an  early  variety,  and  is  found  highly 
profitable  as  a  market  sort  in  some  localities. 

Elton* — Origin  England.  Large,  heart-shape,  pointed  ; 
glossy  pale  yellow,  shaded,  mottled  and  streaked  with  red 
in  the  sun ;  flesh  somewhat  firm,  nearly  tender  when  fully 
ripe,  juicy,  sweet,  rich,  high  flavor. — Middle  to  last  of 
June.  Tree  vigorous,  spreading,  irregular  in  growth,  a 
good  bearer ;  one  of  the  best  of  the  large,  light-colored 
cherries. 

Governor  Wood, — Origin  Ohio.  Large,  roundish, 
heart-shape ;  light,  rich  yellow,  shaded  and  marbled  with 
red  ;  flesh  almost  tender,  juicy,  sweet,  with  a  rich,  deli- 
cious flavor. — Middle  to  last  of  June.  Tree  a  fine  grower, 
forming  a  round,  half-spreading  head,  very  productive ; 
liable  to  overbear,  which  might  be  remedied  by  judicious 
pruning. 

Knight's  Early  Black. — Origin  England.  Large,  heart- 
shape  ;  deep  purple,  almost  black ;  flesh  purple,  tender, 
juicy,  sweet  and  rich,  high  flavor. — Middle  to  last  of 
June.  Tree  a  spreading,  stocky  growrer,  and  productive. 

Ohio  Beauty. — Origin  Ohio.  Large,  obtuse,  heart- 
shape  ;  pale  yellow,  mostly  overspread  with  clear,  bright 
red ;  flesh  quite  tender,  juicy,  brisk,  delicious. — Middle 


382  SELECT    VARIETIES     OF    FRUITS. 

of  June.  Tree  a  vigorous,  rather  spreading  grower,  very- 
productive,  and  hardy;  ranks  among  the  best  of  the  light- 
colored  varieties. 

Wilkinson. — Medium,  heart-shape ;  deep  red,  almost 
purplish  black ;  flesh  purplish,  tender,  juicy,  pleasant. — 
Middle  July.  Tree  vigorous,  upright,  productive ;  valued 
because  of  late  ripening. 

CLAS3    II. 3IGAKREAU    CHERRIES. 

These  are  chiefly  distinguished  from  the  preceding 
class  by  their  firmer  flesh.  Their  growth  is  vigorous, 
branches  spreading,  and  foliage  luxuriant,  soft,  and  droop- 
ing. 

Bigarreail  or  Yellow  Spanish, — Large,  obtuse,  heart- 
shape  ;  beautiful  waxen  yellow,  with  bright  red  cheek  in 
the  sun ;  flesh  quite  firm,  pale  ye.llow,  juicy,  rich,  sweet 
and  delicious  flavor. — Last  of  June.  Tree  a  vigorous, 
stocky  grower,  making  a  fine,  round  head,  very  produc- 
tive ;  an  old  variety  of  the  largest  size  and  best  quality. 

Bllttner's  YcllOW, — Origin  Germany.  Medium  size, 
roundish  ;  pale  yellow  ;  flesh  crisp,  juicy,  sweet.  Last  of 
July.  Tree  a  vigorous  grower,  moderately  productive ; 
the  peculiar  color  of  this  cherry  makes  it  attractive. 

Cleveland  Bigarreau, — Origin  Ohio.  Large,  round, 
heart-shape  ;  bright,  clear  red  on  yellow ;  flesh  half-firm, 
juicy,  sweet  and  rich. — Last  of  June.  Tree  a  fine  grower, 
spreading  and  productive. 

Gridley  OF  Apple  Cherry. — Origin  Massachusetts.  Me- 
dium, roundish ;  dark  reddish  brown,  black  when  fully 
ripe;  flesh  very  firm,  not  juicy  or  high-flavored. — Middle 
July.  Tree  hardy,  vigorous,  and  productive  ;  a  capital 
market  variety  because  of  its  Litcricss  and  firmness. 

MOBStreuSC  de  Ulezel  (GREAT  BIGARREAU). — Origin 
France.  Large  or  very  large,  obtuse,  heart-shape,  uneven 


CIIEKKIES.  383 

surface;  dark  red,  almost  black  at  maturity;  flesh  firm, 
juicy,  well-flavored. — Early  to  Middle  July.  Tree  yery 
vigorous,  forming  a  large,,  wide,  open,  spreading  head, 
productive  and  profitable. 

Napoleon  Bigarreau  ("  ROYAL  ANN  "  in  California  and 
Oregon). — Very  large,  heart-shaped ;  pale  yellow,  dotted 
and  spotted  with  deep  red  and  dark  crimson ;  flesh  very 
firm,  juicy,  fine  flavor. — Early  July.  Tree  a  vigorous 
grower  and  very  productive. 

Osceola. — Origin  Ohio.  Large,  heart-shape  ;  dark  red, 
almost  black ;  flesh  juicy,  tender,  sweet,  excellent. — Last 
of  June.  Tree  a  moderate,  healthy  grower,  and  a  good 
bearer. 

Pontiac* — Origin  Ohio.  Large,  obtuse,  heart-shape, 
sides  compressed ;  dark  purplish  red,  almost  black  when 
fully  ripe ;  flesh  half-tender,  juicy,  sweet,  rich,  excellent. 
— Last  of  June.  Tree  vigorous,  upright,  round-headed, 
very  productive ;  a  valuable  orchard  or  table  sort. 

Red  Jacket. — Origin  Ohio.  Large  to  very  large,  reg- 
ular, obtuse,  heart  shape ;  amber  yellow,  mostly  covered 
with  light  red;  flesh  half -tender,  juicy,  sweet,  good 
flavor. — Middle  July.  Tree  a  free,  healthy  grower,  form- 
ing a  large,  spreading  head,  very  productive  ;  ripens  late, 
and  is  very  profitable  for  market. 

Rockport  Bigarreail. — Origin  Ohio.  Large,  round- 
ish, obtuse,  heart-shape  ;  amber  yellow,  shaded  and  most- 
ly covered  with  bright  red;  flesh  half- tender,  juicy, 
sweet,  rich,  excellent. — Middle  of  June.  Tree  a  very 
erect,  vigorous  grower,  forming  a  remarkably  beautiful, 
upright  head,  and  very  productive. 

Tradescant's  Black  Heart  (ELKHOEN). — Origin  Eu- 
rope. Yery  large,  heart-shaped ;  deep  purple,  almost 
black;  flesh  firm,  moderately  juicy,  purplish,  sweet. — 
Middle  to  end  of  July.  Tree  vigorous,  upright,  with  a 


384  SELECT    VARIETIES     OF    FRUITS. 

peculiar  gray  bark,  a  great  bearer,  and  valuable  for  mar- 
ket or  garden. 

CLASS    III. — DUKE    AND    MORELLO    CHERRIES. 

These  two  classes  of  cherries  arc  very  distinct  from 
the  preceding.  The  trees  are  of  smaller  size  and  grow 
slowly ;  the  leaves  are  thicker  and  more  erect,  and  of  a 
deeper  green.  The  fruit  is  generally  round,  and  in  color 
varying  from  light  red,  like  Belle  de  Choisy,  to  dark 
brown,  like  Mayduke  or  Morello. 

The  Dukes  have  stout,  erect  branches  usually,  and  some 
of  them,  like  Belle  de  Choisy  and  Reine  Hortense,  quite 
sweet,  whilst  the  Morellos  have  slender,  spreading 
branches,  and  acid  fruit  invariably.  These  two  classes 
are  peculiarly  appropriate  for.  dwarfs  and  pyramids,  on 
the  Mahaleb  stock,  and  their  hardiness  renders  them  wTell 
worthy  of  attention  in  localities  where  the  Hearts  and 
Bigarreaus  arc  too  tender. 

Belle  de  Choisy • — Origin  France.  Medium  size,  round  ; 
skin  thin,  translucent;  pale  amber  color,  mottled  with 
yellowish  and  bright  carnelian  red;  flesh  very  tender, 
amber- colored,  melting,  juicy,  sweet. — Last  of  June. 
Tree  a  healthy  grower,  makes  a  handsome  pyramid  on 
the  Mahaleb,  a  regular  but  moderate  bearer;  an  excellent 
dessert  sort,  valued  for  garden  culture. 

Belle  Magnifique* — Large,  roundish,  bright,  rich  red  ; 
flesh  juicy,  tender,  rich,  rather  acid  until  fully  ripe,  when 
it  is  fine  for  the  table  and  excellent  for  cooking. — Last  of 
July.  Tree  very  hardy  and  healthy,  a  moderate  grower, 
abundant  bearer,  fine  as  a  dwarf  or  pyramid,  on  mahaleb. 

Carnation. — Large,  round  ;  yellowish  white,  mottled 
and  marbled  with  red ;  flesh  tender,  juicy,  rich,  a  little 
acid  unless  fully  ripe,  when  it  is  a  rich,  pleasant  sub-acid. 
Middle  to  last  of  July.  Tree  a  good  grower,  with  a  rather 
low,  spreading  habit ;  a  moderate,  regular  bearer. 


CHEKKIES.  385 

Donna  Maria . — Medium  size,  roundish  ;  dark,  clear  red  ; 
flesh  tender,  juicy,  rich  acid. — Middle  July.  Tree  a 
healthy  grower,  hardy,  forming  a  small,  round-headed 
tree,  that  comes  early  into  bearing  and  bears  profusely ;  a 
valuable  and  profitable  variety  for  market  or  cooking. 

Early  Richmond,— Small  to  medium,  roundish  ;  borne 
in  pairs,  and  usually  recognized  by  the  calyx  remaining 
on  the  stem  next  the  fruit;  bright,  clear  red;  brisk,  rich 
acid. — Early  to  last  of  June.  Tree  hardy,  healthy,  vigor- 
ous, forming  a  medium-sized  tree,  with  long,  half-pendent 
shoots,  very  productive,  valuable  and  profitable. 

Late  Duke, — Large,  heart-shape,  flattened;  rich,  clear, 
rather  dark  red ;  flesh  tender,  juicy,  sprightly  sub-acid. 
— Ripens  gradually  and  hangs  a  long  time  or  until  last  of 
July.  Tree  a  vigorous  grower  for  its  class,  and  a  good 
bearer;  makes  a  fine  dwarf  or  pyramid. 

Louis  Philippe, — Origin  France.  Large,  roundish,  reg- 
ular ;  dark,  almost  purplish-black  red ;  flesh  red,  tender, 
juicy,  sprightly,  mild  acid,  excellent. — Middle  to  last  of 
July.  Tree  a  vigorous  grower,  making  a  large  tree  for 
its  class,  with  a  handsome,  round,  spreading  head,  very 
productive;  a  very  valuable  sort  for  dessert,  canning, 
cooking,  or  market. 

May  Duke. — Large,  roundish ;  dark,  lively,  rich  red; 
flesh  tender,  very  juicy,  reddish,  rich,  and  excellent  sub- 
acid. — Middle  of  June.  Tree  hardy,  vigorous,  and  pro- 
ductive, the  fruit  ripening  gradually  in  succession  ;  makes 
fine  dwarfs  or  pyramids. 

MorellO  (English). — Large,  roundish  ;  dark  red,  nearly 
black  ;  flesh  dark  purplish  red,  tender,  juicy,  sub-acid. — 
Late  July.  Tree  a  small,  healthy,  but  slender  grower, 
forming  a  pretty  round  head  as  a  standard,  and  a  fine 
bush  as  a  dwarf. 

Reine    Hor  tense. — Origin    France.      Large    to    very 
large,  roundish  •    bright,  clear  red,  marbled  and  mottled 
17 


SELECT    VARIETIES    OF    FRUITS. 

in  yellow ;  flesh  tender,  juicy,  slightly  sub-acid,  delicious. 
— Middle  to  last  of  July.  Tree  a  healthy,  vigorous, 
handsome  grower,  and  a  moderate,  even,  regular  bearer. 

Royal  Duke. — Large,  roundish,  oblong  ;  rich,  dark  red 
at  maturity ;  flesh  reddish,  tender,  juicy,  sub-acid. — 
Last  of  June.  Tree  an  upright,  compact  grower,  with 
branches  stouter  than  the  average  of  its  class,  an  even 
but  moderate  bearer. 

SMALL    SELECT    LISTS. 

Six  for  the  Garden. — Rockport,  Coe's  Transparent, 
Black  Tartarian,  Black  Hawk,  Late  Duke,  and  Louis 
Philippe. 

For  the  Market  Orchard. — Early  Purple  Guigne, 
Gridley,  Napoleon,  Red  Jacket,  Black  Tartarian,  Pontiac, 
Monstreuse  de  Mezel,  Early  Richmond. 

SECTION  6. — SELECT  NECTARINES. 

The  nectarine  tree  differs  in  nothing  from  a  peach,  and 
the  fruit  only  in  being  smooth-skinned.  It  is  peculiarly 
liable  to  be  destroyed  by  the  curculio.  The  same  pre- 
ventive remedy  against  curculio  must  be  applied  as  with 
the  plum. 

Boston. — Origin  Massachusetts.  Fruit  large,  roundish, 
oval ;  bright  yellow,  with  a  deep  red  and  mottled  cheek ; 
flesh  yellow,  sweet,  pleasant,  peculiar  flavor. — Early  in 
September.  Freestone.  Tree  hardy  and  productive. 

Downton. — Origin  England.  Large,  roundish,  oval ; 
pale  green,  with  a  violet,  red  cheek ;  flesh  greenish  white, 
melting,  juicy,  sweet,  rich  and  high  flavored. — Last  of 
August.  Freestone. 

Early  Violet  (VIOLETTE  HATIVE). — Rather  large,  round- 
ish ;  pale  yellow  green,  nearly  covered  with  violet  purple 


NECTARINES.  387 

red;  flesh   whitish,  rays  of  red   at  stone,  melting,  juicy, 
rich  and  high  flavor. — Last  of  August.     Freestone. 

Early  Newington  (LUCOMBE'S  BLACK,  etc.). — Origin 
England.  Large,  roundish,  ovate,  swollen  point  at  apex ; 
pale  green,  nearly  covered,  mottled  and  marbled  with  red, 
thin  bloom ;  flesh  greenish  white,  red  at  stone ;  juicy, 
sugary,  rich,  excellent. — Early  September.  Clingstone. 

Elruge. — Origin  England.  Medium  size,  roundish, 
oval ;  greenish,  mostly  covered  with  violet  red,  deep  red 
in  the  sun  ;  flesh  slightly  stained  with  red  at  the  stone, 
very  juicy,  melting,  with  a  rich,  fine  flavor. — Early  Sep- 
tember. Freestone.  This  variety  is  widely  grown  and 
generally  successful. 

Hardwicke'S  Seedling. — Origin  England.  Fruit  very 
large,  roundish,  or  roundish  oval,  swollen  point  at  apex  ; 
pale  yellow,  with  a  dark,  violet  red  cheek;  flesh  pale 
green,  tinged  with  red  at  the  stone,  juicy,  melting,  rich. 
— Last  of  August.  Freestone.  Tree  very  hardy  and  ex- 
cellent bearer. 

Hunt's  Tawny. — Origin  England.  Fruit  medium  size ; 
roundish,  narrowing  to  the  apex,  swollen  point,  one  side 
enlarged  ;  pale  orange,  with  a  deep  red  cheek  in  the  sun  ; 
flesh  orange,  melting,  juicy,  stained  with  red  at  stone. — 
Middle  of  August.  Freestone.  A  hardy  tree,  early  and 
productive. 

Pitmaston  Orange* — Origin  England.  Large,  round- 
ish, ovate,  swollen  point ;  rich  orange  yellow,  red, 
bronzed  in  stm ;  flesh  orange  yellow,  red  at  the  stone, 
juicy,  excellent. — Last  August  or  early  September.  Free- 
stone. 

Red  Roman. — Large,  roundish,  a  little  flattened ; 
greenish  yellow,  with  a  brownish  red  cheek ;  flesh  firm, 
greenish  yellow,  red  at  stone,  juicy,  rich,  vinous. — Early 
September.  Clingstone.  Tree  healthy  and  productive; 
an  old,  foreign  variety  of  great  value. 


388  SELECT    VARIETIES    OP    FKUITS. 

Rivers'  Orange,— Originated  by  Thomas  Rivers,  Eng- 
land. Much  like  its  parent,  Pitmaston  Orange,  but  ripen- 
ing later.  Tree  a  great  bearer. 

Stan  wick* — Origin  England,  where  it  was  grown  from 
a  stone  brought  from  Syria.  Large,  or  above  medium, 
roundish  oval ;  greenish  white,  much  covered  and  shaded 
with  violet  red,  when  grown  in  the  sun ;  flesh  white, 
melting,  rich,  juicy,  sweet. — Middle  September.  Compar- 
atively a  new  sort,  of  great  promise  in  the  South,  and 
suited  to  warm,  sheltered  locations. 

Victoria. — Origin  England.  Fruit  resembles  Stanwick, 
except  that  it  ripens  a  month  earlier.  It  originated  witli 
Thomas  Rivers,  England,  from  seed  of  Early  Violet,  fer- 
tilized by  Stanwick,  and  is  as  yet  untested  in  this 
country. 

NOTE. — Mr.  Rivers  lias  recently  originated  many  new 
varieties  of  Nectarines,  some  of  which  promise  to  be 
valuable. 

SECTION  7. — SELECT  PEACHES. 

Fl.    S.     DENOTES    SMALL   FLOWEUS  ;     gl.    GLANDS  ;     glob.    GLOBOSE  ;     AND 
rCU.    RENIFOKM  ;      f.  FREESTONE  ;      C.  CLINGSTONE. 

Bellegarde  (EARLY  ROYAL  GEORGE,  etc.). — Origin 
France.  Gl.  glob.,  fl.  small.  Fruit  large,  round,  suture 
shallow;  pale  yellow  green,  with  a  rich,  purplish  red 
cheek ;  flesh  marked  with  red  at  the  stone,  very  melting, 
juicy,  rich,  and  high  flavored. — Last  of  August.  F.  An 
old  variety,  but  one  of  the  handsomest  and  best. 

Bergen'S  Yellow, — American  Origin.  Gl.  ren.,  fl.  s. 
Fruit  large,  globular;  deep  orange,  with  red;  flesh  yel- 
low, melting,  juicy,  rich,  luscious. — Early  September.  F. 
A  fine  peach,  but  only  an  indifferent  bearer. 

Cole's  Early  Red. — American.  Gl.  glob.,  fl.  s.  Fruit 
medium  size,  roundish  ;  pale  yellow,  nearly  covered  with 


PEACHES.  389 

red  ;  flesh  melting,  juicy,  rich,  sprightly. — Middle  August. 
A  vigorous  tree,  hardy,  abundant  "bearer,  a  profitable 
market  sort. 

Columbia  (INDIAN  PEACH). — American.  Gl.  ren.,  fl.  s. 
Fruit  medium  to  large,  roundish,  with  distinct  suture ; 
dull  yellowish  red,  with  streaks  of  dark  red;  flesh  yellow, 
rich,  juicy,  excellent. — September.  F.  A  profitable  mar- 
ket sort.  Tree  hardy,  a  good  grower  and  bearer ;  exten- 
sively grown  both  in  orchard  and  garden. 

Cooledge's  Favorite, — American.  Gl.glob.,fl.  s.  Fruit 
large,  roundish,  slightly  largest  one  side ;  clear  white, 
with  a  fine,  crimson  red  cheek  ;  flesh  very  melting,  juicy, 
rich,  sweet,  high  flavor. — Middle  August.  F.  Tree  vig- 
orous, healthy,  very  productive  ;  an  extremely  valuable, 
hardy,  and  profitable  variety. 

Crawford's  Early, — American.  Gl.  glob.,  fl.  s.  Fruit 
very  large,  roundish,  oblong,  suture  distinct,  swollen 
point  at  apex ;  yellow,  with  red  cheek ;  flesh  yellow, 
melting,  rich,  sweet,  excellent. — Early  September.  F.  Tree 
very  vigorous  grower,  abundant  bearer,  widely  grown 
and  highly  esteemed  either  for  orchard  or  garden. 

Crawford's  Lates — American.  Gl.  glob.,  fl.  s.  Fruit 
very  large,  roundish,  with  shallow  suture ;  yellow,  with  a 
fine,  dark  red  cheek ;  flesh  deep  yellow,  red  at  the  stone, 
juicy,  melting,  rich,  vinous,  excellent. — Middle  to  last  of 
September.  F.  Tree  vigorous,  hardy,  productive,  highly 
valued  for  orchard  or  garden. 

Druid  Hill. — American.  Gl.  glob.,  fl.  s.  Fruit  large, 
roundish,  swollen  point  distinct ;  greenish  white,  clouded 
with  red  in  the  sun ;  flesh  greenish  white,  purplish  red  at 
stone,  very  juicy,  melting,  rich,  vinous. — Last  of  Septem- 
ber, early  October.  F.  Tree  very  vigorous,  abundant 
bearer,  and  profitable  South  and  South-west ;  it  does  not 
always  ripen  well  in  this  section. 


390  SELECT    VARIETIES    OF    FRUITS. 

Early  Newington  Freestone,— GI.  glob.,  fl.  s.  Fruit 
large  or  above  medium,  round,  suture  distinct ;  pale  yel- 
lowish white,  dotted  and  shaded  with  red  in  the  sun; 
flesh  white,  red  at  stone,  to  which  it  partially  adheres 
unless  fully  ripe,  melting,  juicy,  rich,  vinous. — Middle 
August.  Tree  hardy,  moderate  bearer. 

Early  Tillotson. — American.  Leaves  serrated  without 
glands,  fl.  s.  Fruit  medium  to  large ;  pale  yellowish 
white,  considerable  red  in  the  sun ;  flesh  molting,  whitish, 
red  at  stone,  very  juicy,  rich,  and  excellent. — Middle 
August.  F.  Tree  a  slow  grower,  mildews  badly  at  the 
North,  but  South  it  is  one  of  the  best  and  most  profitable 
sorts. 

Early  York  (SERRATE  EARLY  YORK). — Leaves  serrated 
without  glands,  flowers  large  ;  fruit  medium  size,  round- 
ish, slightly  ovate ;  pale  red  on  greenish  white  ground, 
dark  red  in  the  sun ;  flesh  greenish  white,  very  tender, 
melting,  juicy,  sprightly,  rich,  excellent. — Middle  of 
August.  Tree  a  good,  fair  grower,  prolific ;  one  of  the 
earliest  and  best  for  orchard  or  garden. 

Freeman. — Comparatively  a  new  variety,  originated  at 
South  Pass,  111.,  where  it  is  esteemed,  on  account  of  late 
maturity,  as  a  market  sort  ;  gl.  glob.  Fruit  large,  round- 
ish ;  yellow,  with  rich  red  cheek  in  the  sun ;  flesh  yel- 
low, red  next  the  stone,  juicy,  sweet,  rich. — Middle  Octo- 
ber. F. 

George  the  Fourth, — Believed  to  be  American.  Gl. 
glob.,  fl.  s.  Fruit  large,  round,  deep  suture,  one  side  en- 
larged ;  pale  yellowish  white,  rich,  dark  red  cheek  in  sun  ; 
flesh  tinted  with  red  at  the  stone,  melting,  juicy,  very 
rich  and  delicious. — Last  of  August.  F.  Tree  vigorous, 
hardy,  and  productive  ;  one  of  the  best  in  quality,  and 
successful  in  almost  every  locality. 

Grosse  Mlgnonne,— Gl  glob.,  fl.  large.  Fruit  large, 
roundish,  depressed,  hollow  suture  at  apex ;  greenish 


PEACHES.  391 

yellow,  mottled  with  red,  purplish  red  cheek  ;  flesh  white, 
marked  with  red  at  stone,  melting:,  juicy,  very  rich,  high, 
vinous  flavor. — Middle  August.  F.  Tree  a  free  grower, 
good  bearer ;  in  quality  this  peach  has  no  superior,  and  is 
everywhere  esteemed. 

Haines'  Early. — American.  Gl.  glob.,  fl.  s.  Medium 
size,  round,  flattened  at  apex,  one  side  enlarged ;  pale 
white,  nearly  covered  with  red;  flesh  greenish  white, 
very  juicy,  'melting,  sweet,  fine  flavor.— Early  August.  F. 
Tree  a  fine  grower,  hardy  and  productive,  valued  highly 
for  the  orchard. 

Male's  Early,— American.  Gl.  glob.,  fl.  large.  Fruit 
medium,  nearly  round ;  greenish,  mostly  covered  with 
red ;  flesh  white,  melting,  juicy,  rich,  sweet. — Last  of 
July.  F.  Tree  very  hardy,  a  vigorous  grower  and 
abundant  bearer ;  it  is  the  earliest  ripening  good  peach, 
but  is  liable  to  rot  in  some  localities ;  where  it  does  not,  it 
is  one  of  the  most  profitable. 

Heath  Cling, — American.  Gl.  ren.,  fl.  s.  Fruit  very 
large,  oblong,  roundish,  suture  distinct,  swollen  point  at 
apex ;  skin  whitish,  with  blush  or  red  tinge  in  the  sun ; 
flesh  greenish  white,  very  tender,  melting,  juicy,  rich,  and 
of  the  highest  flavor,  adheres  closely  to  the  stone. — Octo- 
ber. Tree  very  hardy,  vigorous,  and  productive.  This 
is  one  of  the  best  and  most  popular  varieties  in  all  the 
South  and  South-west.  It  does  not  always  ripen  well  at 
the  North,  but  may  be  gathered  and  kept  for  weeks.  It 
is  well  suited  to  espalier  training. 

Hy Slop's  Cling. — American.  Gl.  ren.,  fl.  s.  Fruit  large, 
roundish,  inclining  to  oval ;  pale  white,  with  a  rich,  red 
cheek ;  flesh  very  juicy,  melting,  vinous,  rich,  adheres 
closely  to  the  stone. — Early  in  October.  Tree  a  good 
grower,  hardy  and  productive ;  an  excellent  fruit,  and 
highly  valued  wherever  grown. 

Jacques'  Rareripe.— American.     Gl.  ren.,fl.  s.     Fruit 


392  SELECT    VARIETIES    OF    FRUITS. 

large,  roundish,  compressed  ;  dark,  rich  yellow,  mostly 
covered  with  dull  red  ;  flesh  yellow,  red  at  the  stone, 
juicy,  slightly  sub-acid. — Middle  September.  F.  A 
popular  and  profitable  peach  in  all  the  New  England  and 
Northern  States. 

Kenrick'S  Heath  (HEATH  FREE). — American.  Gl.  ren., 
fl.  s.  Fruit  very  large,  oblong,  with  a  swollen  point  at 
apex ;  pale  greenish  white,  with  a  purplish  red  cheek ; 
flesh  a  little  coarse ;  greenish  white,  deep  red  at  the  stone ; 
juicy,  melting,  pleasant  sub-acid. — Middle  September.  F. 
A  hardy,  vigorous,  and  productive  variety,  profitable,  but 
not  of  the  highest  quality. 

La  Grange* — American.  Gl.  ren.,  fl.  s.  Fruit  large, 
roundish,  oblong  ;  greenish  white,  some  red  in  sun ;  flesh 
juicy,  melting,  very  rich,  sweet  and  high-flavored. — Last 
of  September.  F.  Tree  a  hardy,  good  grower  and  bear- 
er, highly  esteemed  and  profitable  in  New  Jersey,  Del- 
aware, and  the  peach  regions  of  the  South-west. 

Large  Early  York  (HONEST  JOHN). — American.  Gl. 
glob.,  fl.  s.  Fruit  above  medium,  roundish;  whitish,  with 
a  clear,  rich  red  cheek  ;  flesh  almost  white,  fine-grained, 
juicy,  rich,  mild,  excellent. — Last  of  August.  F.  Tree 
vigorous,  hardy,  productive,  and  profitable  either  for 
orchard  or  garden. 

Late  Admirable  (TETON  DE  VEXUS). — Gl.  glob.,  fl.  s. 
Very  large,  roundish,  oval;  deep,  bold  suture,  small, 
acute,  swollen  point  at  apex ;  pale,  yellowish  green,  with 
a  red  cheek,  very  dark  in  sun  ;  flesh  greenish  white,  red 
at  stone,  juicy,  melting,  delicious. — Middle  of  September. 
F.  Tree  vigorous  and  productive,  hardy ;  valuable  and 
profitable  either  for  garden  or  orchard. 

Lemon  Cling* — American.  Gl.  ren.,  fl.  s.  Large,  ob- 
long, with  a  large  projecting  point  at  apex,  like  a  lemon ; 
fine  yellow,  with  a  rich  brown  red  cheek ;  flesh  firm, 
yellow,  red  at  the  stone,  to  which  it  firmly  adheres ;  rich, 


PEACHES.  393 

sprightly,  vinous,  sub-acid. — Last  cf  September.  A  na- 
tive of  South  Carolina;  the  Lemon  Clingstone  is  suc- 
cessful and  popular  North  and  South.  Many  seedlings 
have  been  grown  from  it,  but  none  to  supersede  it. 

Monstrueuse  dc  Douc, — Gl.  ren.,  fl.  s.  Fruit  large, 
roundish,  suture  distinct ;  whitish,  nearly  covered  with 
red  ;  flesh  red  at  the  stone,  juicy,  melting,  vinous. — Last 
of  September.  F.  Tree  very  vigorous  and  productive  ;  an 
excellent  variety  from  France,  not  as  well  known  or  ex- 
tensively cultivated  as  it  deserves. 

Morris's  White  (MORRIS'S  WHITE  RARERIPE). — Amer- 
ican. Gl.  ren.,  fl.  s.  Fruit  rather  large  ;  greenish  white, 
with  a  creamy  tint  when  fully  ripe,  and  a  slight  tint  of 
purplish  red  on  the  sun-exposed  side ;  flesh  white  to  the 
stone,  juicy,  melting,  sweet,  and  rich. — Middle  of  Septem- 
ber. F.  Tree  a  vigorous  grower,  healthy,  moderate  but 
good  bearer.  A  fruit  highly  valued  for  canning. 

Noblesse* — Leaves  serrated  without  glands,  flowers 
large.  Fruit  large,  roundish,  oblong ;  pale  green,  with 
clouded  red  in  the  sun ;  flesh  greenish  white,  juicy,  melt- 
ing, excellent. — Last  of  August.  F.  Tree  healthy  and 
productive.  A  capital  old  English  sort,  highly  esteemed 
wherever  grown. 

Oldmixon  Cling,— Gl.  glob.,  fl.  s.  Fruit  large,  round- 
ish, oval,  one  side  slightly  enlarged ;  yellowish  white, 
with  a  red  cheek  ;  flesh  pale  white,  exceedingly  rich,  melt- 
ing, and  juicy. — Middle  of  September.  Tree  healthy, 
hardy,  vigorous,  and  productive ;  one  of  the  best  and  most 
profitable  of  the  clingstones. 

Oldinixon  Freestone,— Gl.  glob.,  fl.  s.  Fruit  large, 
roundish,  slightly  oval,  one  side  swollen ;  pale  yellowish 
white,  marbled  with  red,  deep  red  in  the  sun  ;  flesh  white, 
red  at  stone,  tender,  juicy,  rich,  sugary,  vinous. — Early  to 
middle  of  September.  F.  Treo  hardy,  very  productive  ; 
one  of  the  most  valuable  of  all  the  white-fleshed  peaches, 
either  for  orchard  or  garden. 
17* 


394  SELECT   VARIETIES    OF    FRUITS. 

Red  Cheek  MelocotODo — American.  Gl.  glob.,  fl.  s. 
Fruit  large,  roundish,  oval,  swollen  point  at  apex  ;  yel- 
low, with  a  deep  red  cheek ;  flesh  deep  yellow,  red  at  the 
stone,  juicy,  melting,  rich,  vinous. — Middle  September.  F. 
Tree  very  hardy  and  productive ;  this  is  one  of  the  most 
reliable  of  all  varieties,  profitable  for  orchard  or  garden. 
From  it  a  large  number  of  varieties  have  been  grown, 
few,  however,  sufficiently  distinct  or  superior. 

Salway, — Fruit  large,  roundish,  one  side  enlarged, 
suture  distinct ;  deep,  with  a  marbled,  rich,  brownish  red 
cheek ;  flesh  yellow,  firm,  juicy,  rich,  vinous,  sugary. — 
Middle  October.  F.  This  is  a  new  English  variety,  giv- 
ing promise  of  great  value  as  a  late-ripening,  showy, 
market  sort. 

Scott?S  Nonpareil. — Large,  roundish ;  yellow  ;  a  seed- 
ling from  Red  Cheek  Melocoton,  ripening  a  few  days 
later,  and  highly  esteemed  in  New  Jersey,  where  it  orig- 
inated as  a  valuable  market  variety. 

Smock  Freestone, — American.  Gl.  ren.  Fruit  large, 
oval,  compressed  on  its  sides;  orange  yellow,  mottled 
with  red,  deep  red  cheek  in  sun ;  flesh  yellow,  red  at 
stone,  moderately  juicy  and  rich,  vinous. — Early  October. 
F.  Tree  a  vigorous  grower  and  productive;  highly  valued 
as  a  late  ripening,  showy,  and  profitable  market  sort. 

Snow, — American.  Gl.  ren.,  fl.  s.  Fruit  medium, 
roundish;  clear  white;  flesh  white  to  the  stone,  juicy, 
melting,  sprightly,  sweet,  and  rich. — Early  September.  F. 
Tree  hardy,  very  productive  ;  highly  valued  for  preserv- 
ing, canning,  etc. 

Stump  the  World, — American.  Gl.  glob.,  fl.  s.  Fruit 
very  large,  roundish,  oblong;  creamy  white,  with  a 
bright,  red  cheek  ;  flesh  white,  juicy,  high-flavored. — Last 
of  September.  F.  Tree  vigorous  and  productive,  es- 
teemed in  New  Jersey,  where  it  originated,  as  a  profit- 
able market  variety. 


PEACHES.  395 

Sturtcvailt, — American.  Fruit  medium  size,  roundish  ; 
rich  yellow,  mostly  covered  with  dark,  rich  red ;  flesh 
yellow,  red  at  the  stone,  juicy,  melting,  sugary,  rich,  ex- 
cellent.— Early  September.  F.  Tree  a  good,  healthy 
grower,  and  an  abundant  bearer ;  esteemed  in  Ohio,  where 
it  originated  as  the  best  in  quality  of  all  the  yellow- 
fleshed  varieties. 

SurpaSSC  Melocoton, — This  is  a  seedling  originated  in 
the  grounds  of  Ellwanger  &  Barry,  of  large  size,  roundish, 
oval ;  rich  yellow,  with  a  red  cheek ;  flesh  pale  yellow, 
nearly  white,  juicy,  rich,  sugary,  vinous,  excellent. — 
Early  September.  F.  Tree  a  strong  grower,  productive, 
and  promising  to  be  a  valuable  market  sort. 

Susfjuchaniia* — American.  Large,  nearly  round,  suture 
distinct ;  yellow,  with  a  beautiful,  broad,  red  cheek ;  flesh 
yellow,  sweet,  rich,  juicy,  vinous. — Middle  to  last  of  Sep- 
tember. F.  Tree  a  fine  grower,  very  popular  in  Penn- 
sylvania. 

Tippecanoe  ('ling,— American.  Gl.  ren.,  fl.  s.  Fruit 
very  large,  nearly  round,  flattened  slightly  at  sides  ;  yel- 
low, with  a  fine,  rich,  red  cheek;  flesh  yellow,  juicy, 
sweet,  vinous. — Last  September  and  early  October.  Tree 
vigorous,  productive ;  a  handsome  peach  of  very  good 
quality,  valued  highly  where  known  as  a  market  sort. 

Troth's  Early. — American.  Gl.  glob.,  fl.  s.  Fruit 
medium  size,  roundish,  oval ;  whitish,  bright  red  in  sun  ; 
flesh  white,  red  at  the  stone,  juicy,  sweet. — Early  in  Au- 
gust. F.  Tree  vigorous,  very  productive  ;  this  variety 
is  extensively  grown,  and  esteemed  highly  valuable  as  a 
market  orchard  sort ;  it  is  also  fine  for  the  orchard, 
house,  and  the  garden. 

Ward's  Late  Free,— American.  Gl.  ren.,  fl.  s.  Fruit 
rather  large,  roundish,  slightly  oval ;  white,  with  a  beau- 
tiful red  cheek ;  flesh  white,  tinged  with  red  at  stone, 
juicy,  melting,  sweet,  delicious. — Late  September.  F. 


396  SELECT   VARIETIES    OF    FRUITS. 

Tree  vigorous  and  productive ;  very  valuable  for  orchard 
or  garden. 

Wai  bur  ton  Admirable. — English.  Fl.  s.  Fruit  large, 
roundish  ;  greenish  white,  shaded  with  dark  red  in  the  sun  ; 
flesh  white,  stained  red  at  the  stone,  melting,  juicy,  rich, 
and  sweet. — Last  of  September.  F.  Tree  a  good  grower 
and  productive ;  this  variety,  wherever  it  has  been  grown 
in  this  country,  has  been  found  valuable. 

Yellow  Alberge  (BARNARD'S  YELLOW). — Gl.  glob., 
fl.  s.  Fruit  medium  or  above  in  size,  roundish  ;  yellow, 
with  a  deep,  purplish  red  cheek  ;  flesh  yellow,  deep  red  at 
stone,  juicy,  sweet,  vinous,  pleasant. — Early  September. 
F.  Tree  hardy,  vigorous,  and  productive.  This  old 
French  peach  holds  a  popular  position  as  a  reliable  and 
profitable  variety,  although  only  of  second-rate  quality ; 
from  it  many  seedlings  have  been  grown,  almost  identical 
with  its  parent. 

Yellow  Rareripe.— American.  Gl.  glob.,  fl.  s.  Large, 
roundish  ;  orange  yellow,  a  rich,  red  cheek,  shaded  off  and 
striped;  flesh,  deep  yellow,  red  at  the  stone,  melting, 
juicy,  vinous,  excellent. — Last  of  August.  F.  Tree  vig- 
orous and  productive;  one  of  the  best  and  most  profitable 
very  early  yellow-fleshed  peaches  grown. 

SELECT    GARDEN    VARIETIES. 

Hale's  Early,  Early  York,  Cooledge's  Favorite,  Oldmix- 
on  Freestone,  Large  Early  York,  George  the  Fourth, 
Ward'b  Late  Freestone. 

Varieties  generally  successful  in  New  England,  West- 
ern New  York,  Ohio,  and  Michigan. — Cole's  Early  Red, 
Columbia,  Cooledge's  Favorite,  Crawford's  Early,  Craw- 
ford's Late,  George  the  Fourth,  Jacques'  Rareripe,  Large 
Early  York,  Late  Admirable,  Morris's  White,  Oldmixon 
Free,  Red  Cheek  Melocoton,  Smock,  Ward's  Late  Free, 
and  Yellow  Rareripe. 


PLUMS.  397 

Varieties  for  Profitable  Market  Orchards.  —  Bale's 
Early,  Troth's  Early,  Yellow  Rareripe,  Crawford's  Early, 
Crawford's  Late,  Haines'  Early,  Oldmixon  Freestone,  Red- 
cheek  Melocoton.  Smock,  Yellow  Alberge. 

Varieties  successful  South  and  South-west. — ITale's 
Early,  Early  Tillotson,  Troth's  Early,  Columbia,  Craw- 
ford's Early,  Druid  Hill,  Crawford's  Late,  George  the 
Fourth,  Haines'  Early,  Heath  Cling,  Red-cheek  Meloco- 
ton, Smock,  Stump  the  World,  Tippecanoe,  Freeman. 

SECTION  7. — SELECT  PLUMS. 

Autumn  Gage* — Origin  New  York.  Medium  size,  oval, 
broadest  at  the  stem  end ;  pale  yellow,  with  a  thin,  whit- 
ish bloom;  flesh  greenish  yellow,  juicy,  sweet,  pleasant, 
separates  freely  from  the  stone. — September.  Tree  a  vig- 
orous, spreading  grower,  and  an  abundant  bearer. 

Bleecker  >S  Gage , — Origin  New  York.  Medium  or  above 
in  size,  roundish,  oval ;  yellowish,  with  a  thin,  white 
bloom  ;  flesh  yellow,  juicy,  rich,  sweet,  excellent,  separates 
freely  from  the  stone. — Last  of  August.  Tree  a  good 
grower  and  productive. 

Bradshaw. — Large,  oval,  obovate;  reddish  purple, 
with  a  light  blue  bloom;  flesh  rather  coarse,  juicy,  brisk, 
pleasant,  adheres  slightly  to  the  stone. — August.  Tree  an 
upright,  vigorous  grower,  productive  and  profitable. 

Coe'S  Golden  Drop, — Origin  England.  Large,  oval, 
distinct  suture ;  light  yellow,  with  dark,  carmine  red 
spots  in  the  sun ;  flesh  yellowish,  firm,  juicy,  rich,  adheres 
to  the  stone. — Last  of  September.  Tree  a  moderately 
vigorous  grower,  hardy,  and  a  great  bearer;  a  variety 
widely  disseminated  and  highly  esteemed. 

Columbia. — Origin  New  York.  Large  or  very  large, 
nearly  round ;  brownish,  reddish  purple,  covered  with  a 
blue  bloom  ;  flesh  orange,  sweet,  and  rich,  separates  from 


398  SELECT   VARIETIES    OF    FRUITS. 

the  stone. — Last  of  August.     Tree  a  very  vigorous  grower, 
and  productive.     A  valuable  market  sort. 

Denniston's  Superb, — Origin  New  York.  Medium  or 
below,  roundish,  flattened  ;  pale,  but  rich,  yello  ^blotches 
of  purple  in  the  sun  ;  thin,  white  bloom;  flesh,  juicy,  rich, 
sweet,  vinous,  separates  from  the  stone. — Last  of  August. 
Tree  moderately  vigorous,  forming  a  small,  round  head, 
very  productive ;  one  of  the  best  for  the  garden. 

Duane's  Purple. — Origin  New  York.  Large,  oval,  dis- 
tinct suture,  one  side  enlarged  ;  pale  red,  becoming  reddish 
purple  in  the  sun,  lilac  bloom ;  flesh  amber  color,  juicy, 
sprightly,  moderately  sweet,  adheres  partially  to  the  stone. 
— Middle  to  last  of  August.  Tree  very  vigorous  and 
productive.  * 

Early  FaYOrite. — Origin  England.  Small  to  medium, 
roundish,  oval ;  very  dark,  almost  black,  blue  bloom ; 
flesh  greenish  yellow,  juicy,  sweet,  vinous,  separates  from 
the  stone. — Early  in  August.  A  new  sort,  highly  praised 
abroad,  but  as  yet  little  grown  in  this  country. 

Fellenberg. — An  old,  Italian  prune,  a  moderate, 
spreading  grower,  great  bearer,  and  very  valuable ;  fruit 
medium,  oval ;  dark  blue,  with  a  bloom ;  flesh  dark  yellow, 
juicy,  sweet,  and  good,  separates  from  the  stone. — Early 
in  October. 

General  Hand. — Origin  Pennsylvania.  Very  large, 
roundish,  oval ;  deep  yellow,  marbled  with  greenish  yel- 
low; flesh  coarse,  pale  yellow,  sweet,  moderately  juicy, 
separates  freely  from  the  stone. — September.  Tree  very 
vigorous  and  productive,  fine  for  market. 

German  Prune. — Medium,  long,  oval,  one  side  swollen  ; 
purple,  with  a  thick  blue  bloom;  flesh  firm,  not  juicy, 
greenish,  sweet,  pleasant,  separates  freely  from  the  stone. 
—September.  Tree  a  good  grower,  very  productive,  val- 
uable for  market  and  highly  esteemed  for  drying. 


PLUMS.  399 

Green  GagC* — Origin  France.  Rather  small,  round ;  yel- 
lowish green,  with  clottings  of  red  in  sun ;  flesh  pale  green, 
exceedingly  juicy  and  melting,  rich,  sprightly,  luscious,  sep- 
arates from  the  stone. — Middle  of  August.  Tree  a  short- 
jointed,  healthy  but  slow  grower,  making  a  small,  round 
head,  and  bearing  abundantly ;  has  no  superior  in  qual- 
ity ;  suitable  for  a  choice  garden  collection. 

Hilling's  Superb, — Origin  Pennsylvania.  Very  large, 
roundish,  oval,  shallow  suture ;  greenish  yellow,  cov- 
ered with  a  thin  pale  bloom ;  flesh  greenish  yellow, 
rather  coarse,  rich,  brisk,  sprightly,  adheres  to  the  stone. 
— Middle  of  August.  Tree  a  very  vigorous,  upright 
grower,  with  large  foliage,  a  good,  moderate  bearer. 

I  ok  worth  I  m  per  air  ice, — Origin  England.  Rather 
above  medium  size,  obovate ;  purple,  traced  with  fawn ; 
flesh  greenish  yellow,  sweet,  juicy,  rich,  adheres  partially 
to  the  stone. — Early  October.  Tree  a  good,  fair  grower, 
productive ;  valuable  for  its  late  ripening,  and  for  its 
peculiarity  of  hanging  a  long  time  on  the  tree  as  well  as 
keeping  after  being  gathered;  not  much  grown,  but 
promising  to  be  of  great  market  value. 

Imperial  Gage. — Origin  New  York.  Rather  above 
medium  size,  oval,  suture  distinct ;  green,  until  fully  ripe, 
when  it  is  known  by  the  peculiar  marbling  of  two  shades 
of  green  ;  white  bloom  ;  flesh  greenish,  very  juicy,  rich, 
melting,  pleasant  flavor,  separates  freely  from  the  stone. 
— Early  September.  Tree  one  of  the  best  of  growers,  and 
productive ;  everywhere  popular  and  profitable  for  mar- 
ket or  garden. 

Jefferson* — Origin  New  York.  Large,  roundish,  oval ; 
golden  yellow,  with  a  beautiful  red  cheek ;  flesh  orange 
yellow,  juicy,  rich,  luscious,  separates  freely  from  the 
stone. — Last  of  August.  Tree  a  moderate,  rather  slow 
grower,  but  a  regular,  good  bearer ;  one  of  the  best  in 
quality. 


4CO  SELECT    VARIETIES    OF    PKUITS. 

July  Green  Gage.— Medium,  roundish,  oblong,  suture 
distinct ;  greenish  yellow,  tinted  with  purple  in  the  sun  ; 
flesh  yellow,  juicy,  sweet,  separates  from  the  stone.— Last 
of  August.  Tree  a  moderate  grower,  productive. 

Lawrence's  Favorite.— Origin  New  York.  Large, 
roundish,  a  little  flattened  ;  dull,  yellowish  green,  clouded 
with  streaks  of  a  dark  shade ;  flesh  greenish,  juicy,  melt- 
ing, rich,  sprightly,  delicate,  vinous,  separates  freely  from 
the  stone. — Middle  of  August.  Tree  vigorous,  upright, 
very  productive. 

Lombard. — Origin  New  York.  Medium,  roundish, 
oval ;  violet  red,  thin  bloom ;  flesh  deep  yellow,  juicy, 
pleasant,  not  rich,  adhering  to  the  stone.— Last  of  Au- 
gust. Tree  vigorous,  a  great  bearer,  popular  and  profit- 
able as  a  market  sort,  succeeds  where  many  other  sorts  fail. 

LllCOmbe'S  Nonsuch. — Origin  England.  Above  medi- 
um, roundish ;  yellowish  green,  distinctly  streaked  with 
yellow  and  orange ;  flesh  pretty  firm,  greenish,  adheres  to 
the  stone. — Early  September.  Tree  moderately  vigorous, 
very  productive. 

Magnum  Bonum,  Yellow  (YELLOW  EGG,  etc.). — A  pop- 
ular old  variety,  with  some  twenty  synonyms.  Large, 
or  very  large,  egg  shape,  or  oval ;  yellow,  with  white 
dots  and  a  thin  bloom  ;  flesh  yellow,  acid  until  fully  ripe, 
when  it  is  sweet,  adheres  to  the  stone. — Last  of  August. 
Tree  very  vigorous,  productive ;  valued  for  market  and 
cooking. 

McLailghlin* — Origin  Maine.  Large,  roundish,  flat- 
tened at  ends ;  yellow,  dotted  and  marbled  with  red  in 
the  sun,  thin  bloom ;  flesh  yellow,  rather  firm,  juicy,  very 
sweet,  delicious,  adheres  to  the  stone. — Last  of  August 
Tree  a  hardy,  vigorous  grower,  productive ;  one  of  the 
most  valuable. 

Monroe  Gage. — Origin  New  York.  Rather  above 
medium,  oval ;  greenish  yellow,  rarely  a  blush ;  flesh 


PLUMS.  401 

greenish  yellow,  not  very  tender,  but  sweet. — Early  Sep- 
tember. Tree  vigorous,  productive. 

Ontario. — Originated  by  Ellwanger  &  Barry,  New 
York.  Large,  roundish ;  yellow,  marbled  ;  flesh  moder- 
ately juicy,  sweet,  rich,  adheres  to  the  stone. — Early  in 
August.  Tree  a  good  grower  and  Arery  productive. 

Orleans. — See  Smith's  Orleans. 

Peters'  Yellow  Gage.— Medium,  roundish,  oval ;  yel- 
low, with  crimson  dots  in  the  sun,  thin,  light  bloom ;  flesh 
yellowish,  juicy,  adheres  slightly  to  the  stone. — Middle 
of  August.  Tree  a  moderately  vigorous  grower  ;  an 
abundant  bearer. 

Pond's  Seedling. — Origin  England.  Very  large,  oval ; 
yellowish,  covered  with  violet  red,  thin,  white  bloom; 
flesh  yellow,  a  little  coarse,  juicy,  sugary. — Middle  of 
September.  Tree  a  good  grower,  and  an  abundant 
bearer  ;  a  beautiful  fruit. 

Prince  Englebert. — Origin  Belgium.  Large,  oblong, 
oval ;  deep  purple,  with  a  blue  bloom ;  flesh  yellowish 
green,  juicy,  sugary,  rich,  separates  freely  from  the  stone. 
— Last  of  August.  Tree  vigorous,  a  great  bearer;  very 
valuable  for  market,  dessert,  or  cooking. 

Prune  d'Agen  (ROBE  DE  SERGEXT,  etc.). — Medium 
size,  oval;  violet  purple,  with  a  thick  bloom;  flesh  green- 
ish yellow,  juicy,  rich,  sugary,  and  delicious,  adheres 
slightly  to  the  stone. — Last  of  September.  Tree  a  mod- 
erate grower,  very  prolific. 

QuackenbOSS. — Origin  New  York.  Large,  roundish, 
oblong ;  deep  purple,  covered  with  blue  bloom ;  flesh 
greenish  yellow,  a  little  coarse,  juicy,  sprightly,  sweet, 
adheres  slightly  to  the  stone. — September.  Tree  a  very 
rapid,  upright  grower,  and  productive. 

Reine  Claude  de  Bavay  (BAVAY'S  GREEN  GAGE). — 
Origin  Belgium.  Large,  roundish,  a  little  flattened ; 
greenish  yellow,  with  splashes  of  green,  thin  bloom ;  flesh 


403  SELECT   VARIETIES    OF   FRUITS. 

yellow,  juicy,  sugary,  melting,  rich,  excellent,  separates 
from  the  stone. — Last  of  September.  Tree  a  vigorous 
grower  and  very  productive  ;  one  of  the  best  in  quality, 
very  valuable  and  extensively  planted  as  a  late  market 
sort. 

Saint  Catherine. — Origin  France.  Medium  size,  obo- 
vate,  deep  suture ;  pale  yellow,  a  little  reddish  in  the  sun, 
thin,  white  bloom ;  flesh  yellow,  juicy,  rather  firm,  and 
adhering  partly  to  the  stone. — Middle  to  last  of  Septem- 
ber. Tree  an  upright,  rather  slender  grower ;  productive 
and  highly  prized  for  drying. 

Saint  Lawrence. — Originated  in  the  grounds  of  Ell- 
wanger  &  Barry,  New  York,  from  a  seed  of  Smith's 
Orleans.  Large;  dark  purple;  flesh  juicy,  melting, 
sweet,  adheres  to  the  stone. — September.  Tree  a  good 
grower,  productive. 

Shropshire  Damson. — Origin  England.  Medium  to 
small  size,  oval ;  dark  purple ;  flesh  melting,  juicy,  sep- 
arates freely  from  the  stone. — October.  Tree  healthy  and 
productive ;  one  of  the  best  of  the  Damsons. 

Smith's  Orleans. — Origin  Long  Island.  Large,  round- 
ish, oval ;  reddish  purple,  covered  with  a  blue  bloom ;  flesh 
deep  yellow,  a  little  firm,  very  juicy,  brisk,  vinous,  adheres 
to  the  stone. — Last  of  August.  Tree  vigorous  and  verv^ 
productive;  one  of  the  most  valuable  for  orchard  or 
garden. 

Victoria  (SHARP'S  EMPEROR,  etc.). — Origin  England. 
Large,  roundish,  oval ;  light  yellow,  marbled,  spotted, 
and  shaded  with  lilac  and  purple,  thin,  lilac  bloom  ;  flesh 
yellow,  coarse,  not  juicy  or  sugary,  a  little  vinous,  and 
separates  from  the  stone. — Middle  September.  Tree  vig- 
orous, but  irregular  in  growth,  productive  ;  a  plum  of  the 
largest  size,  showy,  and  valuable  for  market. 

Wangenheim. — Origin  Germany.  Medium,  oval ;  deep 
purple,  thick,  blue  bloom ;  flesh  greenish  yellow,  rather 


PLUMS.  403 

firm,  juicy,  sugary,  rich,  separates  from  the  stone. — Last 
of  August.  Tree  a  moderate  grower,  but  good  bearer; 
one  of  the  best  designated  as  Prunes. 

Washington. — Origin  New  York.  Large  to  very  large, 
roundish,  oval ;  dull  or  deep  yellow,  with  marblings  of 
green,  with  a  pale  red  or  crimson  blush  in  the  sun ;  flesh 
yellow,  firm,  very  sweet  and  rich,  separates  freely  from 
the  stone. — Last  of  August.  Tree  a  stocky,  vigorous, 
healthy  grower,  very  productive ;  one  of  the  most  reli- 
able for  market  or  garden. 

Yellow  Gage  (PRINCES). — Origin  Long  Island.  Medi- 
um to  large,  oval,  broadest  next  the  stalk  ;  golden  yellow, 
covered  with  a  white  bloom;  flesh  deep  yellow,  rich, 
sugary,  juicy,  melting,  separates  freely  from  the  stone. — 
Early  in  August.  Tree  very  vigorous,  forming  a  large, 
spreading  head,  very  hardy  and  productive ;  a  popular 
and  profitable  variety. 

SMALL   SELECT   LISTS    OF    PLUMS. 

For  the  Garden. — Coe's  Golden  Drop,  Green  Gage,  Im- 
perial Gage,  Jefferson,  Lawrence's  Favorite,  Smith's  Or- 
leans, Heine  Claude  de  Bavay,  McLaughlin,  Washington. 

For  MarJcet. — Imperial  Gage,  Yellow  Magnum  Bonum, 
Smith's  Orleans,  Pond's  Seedling,  Lombard,  Reine  Claude 
de  Bavay,  Bradshaw,  Columbia,  General  Hand,  Quacken- 
boss. 

For  Drying. — German  Prune,  Saint  Catherine,  Fellem- 
berg. 


404  SELECT   VARIETIES    OF    FRUITS. 


THIRD    DIVISION.— BERRIES. 

CURRANTS,    GOOSEBERRIES,    RASPBERRIES,     STRAW- 
BERRIES,  BERBERRIES,    BLACKBERRIES,   MUL- 
BERRIES,   GRAPES,    AND    FIGS. 

SECTION  8. — SELECT  CURRANTS. 

The  Currant  is  a  most  useful  fruit,  indeed  indispensable 
to  every  garden,  large  or  small ;  it  fills  a  space  of  a  cou- 
ple of  weeks  after  the  strawberries,  raspberries,  and  cher- 
ries, and  before  the  apricots,  early  apples,  and  pears ;  and 
besides  this,  it  possesses  such  a  remarkable  combination 
of  sweet  and  acid,  as  fits  it  for  an  almost  endless  variety 
of  useful  and  agreeable  preparations,  both  in  the  green 
and  ripe  state. 

The  white  varieties  are  mildest  flavored,  and  therefore 
better  for  using  in  a  raw  state  when  ripe.  The  red  arc 
preferable  for  jellies,  etc.,  on  account  of  their  beautiful 
color. 

Black  Naples. — The  largest  and  best  black  currant; 
bears  profusely  ;  valuable  for  jam  and  jellies. 

Cherry. — Very  large,  exceeding  an  inch  in  circumfer- 
ence, bunches  short,  color  dark  red,  ripens  same  time  as 
Red  Dutch,  shoots  stout,  short-jointed,  and  erect,  foliage 
thick,  dark  green,  slightly  folded,  and  bluntly  and  coarsely 
serrated.  Mr.  Le welling,  of  California,  has  40  acres 
planted  with  this  variety  ;  we  saw  the  plantation  in  full 
fruit  in  1870.  It  is  stated  that  the  crop  of  1871  was 
150,000  Ibs.,  sold  at  from  8  cents  to  15  cents  per  pound. 

La  VersaillaiSC. — Similar  to  the  foregoing  in  all  re- 
spects, so  much  so  as  to  be  supposed  by  many  to  be  iden- 
tical; it  is  generally  believed  that  it  is  less  acid  and 
the  bunches  a  little  longer ;  a  very  vigorous  grower,  pro- 
ductive, and  highly  valued. 


GOOSEBERRIES.  405 

Long-Bunched  Red,— Much  like  Red  Dutch,  but  with 
clusters  longer  and  larger,  and  rather  larger  fruit ;  a 
strong-growing,  productive,  and  valuable  variety. 

Prince  Albert. — A  moderate  grower,  with  large,  stiff, 
deeply-cut  foliage,  very  productive;  valued  for  its  late 
ripening ;  fruit  light  red,  large,  acid. 

Red  Dutch. — A  well-known  variety,  generally  super- 
seded by  the  larger  varieties. 

Short-Bunched  Red. — A  strong,  upright  grower ;  ber- 
ries large  ;  bunches  short ;  mild  acid. 

Victoria  or  noughton  Castle. — Very  large,  bright  red, 
bunches  five  or  six  inches  long ;  hangs  on  the  bushes 
after  others  are  gone ;  distinguished  at  once  by  its  remark- 
ably long  bunches  and  bright  red  color,  and  by  the 
foliage,  which  is  quite  distinct,  dark  green,  coarsely  and 
bluntly  serrated,  quite  flat,  and  frequently  reflexed  or 
turned  backwards  at  the  edges ;  the  shoots  are  not  so 
stout  and  erect  as  those  of  the  Cherry. 

White  Dutch* — Yellowish  white,  transparent,  milder 
than  the  red,  and  better  for  using  raw  ;  excellent. 

White  Grape. — Larger  every  way  than  the  preceding ; 
the  largest  white  currant ;  growth  rather  spreading,  foliage 
thicker,  deeper  green,  and  more  reflexed.  There  are  sev- 
eral other  sorts  under  cultivation,  of  little  value,  unless  to 
those  who  arc  making  large  collections  for  curiosity  and 
experiment. 

SECTION  9. — GOOSEBERRIES. 
CLASS  I. EXGLISH    VARIETIES. 

The  following,  from  the  large  English  sorts,  have  all 
proved  excellent.  In  our  climate  these  are  all  more  or 
less  subject  to  mildew. 

Red, — Albion,  Crownbob,  Echo,  Houghton's  Boggart, 
Ironmonger,  Lancashire  Red,  Prince  Regent,  Roaring 


406  SELECT   VARIETIES    OF   FRUITS. 

Lion,  Shakespeare,  Sportsman,  Top  Sawyer,  Wincberry, 
Young's  Wonderful. 

White. — Chorister,  Fleur  de  Lis,  Leigh's  Toper,  Queen 
Caroline,  Smiling  Beauty,  Whitesmith,  Wellington's 
Glory,  White  Muslin,  etc. 

Green* — Berrier's  Greenwood,  Chipendale's  Conquer- 
ing Hero,  Green  Mountain,  Green  Vale,  Green  Willow, 
Green  Ocean,  Independent,  Jolly  Cutler,  Massey's  Heart 
of  Oak,  Profit. 

Yellow,— Bunker  Hill,  Capper's  Early  Sulphur,  Golden 
Drop,  Husbandman,  etc. 

CLASS    II. AMERICAN    VARIETIES. 

American  Seedling  (PALE  RED). — A  vigorous  grower  ; 
bush  upright,  with  slender  wood ;  very  productive,  never 
mildews;  fruit  medium  to  small,  pale  red,  sweet,  very 
good ;  hangs  a  long  time,  very  valuable. 

Downing. — Originated  at  Newburgh,  N.  Y.  An  up- 
right, strong  grower,  productive ;  fruit  medium  or  above, 
roundish  oval ;  green,  with  the  rib  veins  distinct,  smooth, 
juicy;  very  good.  The  best  for  family  use  of  any  of  the 
American  sorts. 

Houston's  Seedling. — Raised  in  Massachusetts  from 
the  seed  of  a  native  variety.  It  is  a  vigorous  grower,  with 
drooping  branches,  very  productive ;  fruit  medium  size 
or  below,  smooth,  pale  red,  sweet,  very  good. 

Mountain  Seedling, — Originated  with  the  Shakers  at 
Lebanon,  N.  Y.  A  very  strong,  straggling  grower,  form- 
ing a  large  bush,  productive  ;  fruit  large  for  its  class,  skin 
thick,  flesh  sweet ;  valued  for  market. 

Smith's  Improved, — Sinrlar  to  American,  but  larger  in 
size  of  its  fruit. 


RASPBERRIES.  407 

SECTION  10. — SELECT  RASPBERRIES. 

CLASS    I. FOREIGN   VARIETIES    AND     THEIR     SEEDLINGS     OF 

AMERICAN     ORIGIN. 

Belle  de  Paluail, — A  French  variety,  with  strong,  vig- 
orous, upright  canes ;  fruit  large,  conical ;  bright  crimson, 
firm,  juicy,  and  rich  ;  short,  purplish  spines. 

Clarke* — Originated  at  Xew  Haven,  Ct.  Canes  strong 
and  vigorous,  long  spines,  half-hardy ;  fruit  large,  coni- 
cal, bright  crimson,  rather  soft,  juicy,  excellent ;  produces 
suckers  freely  ;  succeeds  finely  in  light  soils. 

FaStollf* — Canes  very  strong,  nearly  hardy,  erect, 
branching ;  fruit  very  large,  roundish,  conical  ;  purplish 
red,  rich,  fine  flavor ;  productive. 

Franc onia.  —  Canes  strong,  branching ;  yellowish 
brown,  short,  stout,  purple  spines,  large,  obtuse,  conical ; 
purplish  red,  pretty  firm,  rich  acid ;  one  of  the  hardiest 
of  this  class,  productive  and  profitable. 

French  (VICE-PRESIDENT  FRENCH). — Originated  in 
Philadelphia,  Pa.  Canes  strong,  upright,  spines  short 
and  stout ;  fruit  medium  to  large,  roundish,  rich,  bright 
crimson,  large  grains,  sweet  and  very  good. 

Hornet. — A  French  variety,  with  strong,  upright,  vig- 
orous canes,  stout,  purplish  spines;  fruit  large,  conical, 
rather  firm,  crimson  red,  juicy,  sweet. 

Hudson  River  Antwerp  (RED  ANTWERP  OF  THE  HUD- 
SON RIVER). — Origin  unknown.  Has  been  long  and 
profitably  cultivated  along  the  Hudson  River,  where  it  is 
esteemed  most  valuable  of  all  sorts  for  market.  The  crop 
from  three  acres  has  in  one  season  sold  for  $1,500,  Canes 
short,  stout,  almost  spineless. 

Knevett's  Giant. — A  very  strong  grower,  erect,  small, 
reddish  spines  ;  fruit  large,  obtuse,  conical,  deep  red,  firm, 
rich ;  almost  hardy  and  very  productive. 


408  SELECT    VARIETIES    OF    FRUITS. 

Orange  (BRIXCKLE'S  ORANGE). — Origin  Philadelphia, 
Pa.  Canes  strong,  branched,  white  spines ;  fruit  large, 
conical,  clear,  orange  yellow,  juicy,  rather  soft,  sweet,  rich, 
and  excellent ;  the  best  of  all  the  light-colored  varieties. 

Red  Antwerp, — This  is  the  common  Red  Antwerp  of 
England ;  distinct  from  the  Hudson  River  Antwerp. 
Canes  tall  and  strong,  light,  red  spines ;  fruit  large,  ob- 
tuse conical,  dark  red,  juicy,  brisk,  vinous,  fine  flavor. 

Semper  Fidelis* — An  English  variety,  with  strong,  up- 
right canes,  purplish,  stiff  spines ;  fruit  large,  conical,  firm, 
juicy,  sub-acid. 

Victoria, — An  English  variety  of  rather  dwarf  habit ; 
fruit  very  large,  dark  red. 

CLASS      II. AMERICAN       SPECIES      AND      VARIETIES,       BLACK 

CAPS,  ETC. 

American  Black  Cap  (DOOLITTLE,  JOSLTN'S  BLACK 
CAP,  etc.). — A  hardy,  native  variety,  improved  by  cultiva- 
tion, very  productive ;  one  of  the  best  of  its  class  for 
profitable  market  growing,  as  it  ripens  early  and  carries 
well. 

Davison's  Thornless,—  A  variety  of  the  foregoing,  but 
free  from  spines  and  ripening  some  days  earlier  ;  the  fruit 
is  not  quite  as  large  as  the  American  Black  Cap,  but  is 
sweeter ;  moderately  productive. 

Miami  (MAMMOTH  CLUSTER,  McCoRMicK). — Another 
variety  of  the  Black  Cap,  stronger  in  its  growth,  fewer 
spines,  and  very  productive;  the  fruit  is  also  larger, 
deeper  color,  more  bloom,  and  ripens  later. 

Ontario, — A  new  variety  of  the  Black  Cap  found  near 
Fairport,  K  Y.,  and  introduced  by  E.  E.  Lord,  of  New- 
ark, N.  Y.  Larger  and  a  few  days  earlier  than  the  com- 
mon sort,  and  quite  as  good  in  quality,  but  has  a  thick 
coating  of  white  bloom,  which  injures  it  for  market. 


RASPBERRIES.  409 

Philadelphia  i — A  variety  found  wild  in  the  county  of 
Philadelphia,  Pa.  Canes  very  vigorous,  tall,  branching, 
almost  free  from  spines,  and  very  productive;  fruit  medium, 
roundish,  dark  crimson,  moderately  juicy,  mild  sub-acid, 
rather  soft ;  a  hardy  and  valuable  variety,  succeeding 
finely  on  light  soils,  and  in  latitudes  where  the  Ant- 
werps  can  not  well  be  grown. 

Seneca  Black  Cap,— A  variety  of  the  Black  Cap, 
larger  and  later  than  the  American,  very  vigorous  and 
very  productive ;  fruit  has  a  shade  of  purple,  with  a  light 
bloom,  juicy  and  sweet. 


CLASS    III. AUTUMNAL   BEARING    VARIETIES. 

The  product  of  this  class  of  Raspberries  is  upon  the 
ends  of  the  canes  of  the  present  season's  growth,  and  to 
insure  a  full  autumn  crop,  all  the  old  canes  should  be  cut 
away  in  the  spring,  and  all  the  suckers  kept  down,  con- 
fining the  new  growths  to  the  few  strong,  vigorous  canes. 

Belle  de  Fontenay, — A  French  variety,  with  stout, 
branching  canes,  and  an  over-abundance  of  suckers,  which 
must  be  cut  away  as  so  many  weeds,  in  order  to  insure  a 
crop ;  fruit  large,  roundish,  conical,  purplish  red,  sprightly, 
moderately  firm,  and  rich. 

Catawissa* — A  native  of  Pennsylvania.  Canes  strong 
and  productive;  fruit  medium,  rather  flat,  crimson  or 
purplish  red,  thick  bloom,  sprightly  sub-acid ;  a  fine  sort 
for  the  garden. 

Ulerreille  des  Quatre  Saisons  (OCTOBER  RED). — A 
French  variety,  with  strong,  upright  canes  and  purple 
spines ;  fruit  medium,  roundish,  somewhat  conical,  bright 
red,  rather  soft,  juicy,  sweet,  and  rich. 

Ohio  Everbearing. — A  variety  of  the  American  Black 
18 


410  SELECT    VARIETIES    OF    FRUITS. 

Cap,  in  every  respect  identical,  except  that   it  has  the 
habit  of  fruiting  in  autumn. 

SurpaSSe  Fastollf,— A  new,  large-fruited  variety ;  bright 
red;  promising. 

White  Perpetual. — Strong,  vigorous  canes ;  fruit  large, 
pale,  yellowish  white ;  productive. 

SECTION  11. — SELECT  STRAWBERRIES. 
CLASS  I. AMERICAN  VARIETIES. 

Agriculturist, — Originated  in  Newark,  N.  J.  Plant 
vigorous,  a  little  variable,  sometimes  very  fine,  broad 
foliage,  productive ;  fruit  large,  roundish,  conical,  irregu- 
lar, dark  red,  pretty  firm,  juicy,  sweet,  and  rich. 

Charles  Downing  (DOWNER). — Originated  in  Kentucky. 
Plant  very  vigorous,  with  long  leaf  and  foot-stalks,  pro- 
ductive ;  fruit  large,  conical,  pretty  regular,  scarlet,  firm, 
pinkish  flesh,  juicy,  sweet  and  rich. 

Dlirand's  Seedling, — Originated  in  New  Jersey.  Plant 
moderately  vigorous,  productive ;  fruit  large,  irregular, 
scarlet,  somewhat  firm,  juicy ;  ripens  early  and  keeps  long 
in  bearing. 

Downer's  Prolific  (DOWNER). — Originated  in  Kentucky. 
Plant  vigorous,  hardy,  very  prolific ;  fruit  large,  round- 
ish, conical,  clear,  bright  scarlet,  rather  soft,  juicy,  rather 
acid ;  ripens  early. 

Green  Prolific. — Origin  New  Jersey.  Plant  very  vig- 
orous, hardy,  and  very  productive ;  valued  for  home  or 
near  market ;  does  not  bear  long  transportation ;  fruit 
large,  obtuse,  conical,  scarlet,  surface  soft,  rather  acid,  but 
rich. 

Hovey. — Originated  at  Boston,  Mass.  An  old,  well- 
known  sort,  succeeds  in  rich,  good  soils,  is  one  of  the 


STRAWBERRIES.  411 

handsomest  and  firmest  grown ;  plant  vigorous,  moderately 
productive ;  fruit  large,  or  very  large,  roundish,  rich, 
shining  scarlet ;  flesh  firm,  rich,  juicy,  sweet,  agreeable  ; 
medium  season  of  ripening. 

Ida. — Origin  New  York.  Plant  vigorous,  very  pro- 
ductive ;  fruit  medium,  roundish,  conical,  dark,  rich  red ; 
flesh  rather  firm,  sprightly,  juicy,  slightly  acid;  among 
the  earliest,  and  continues  late. 

Jenny  Lind, — Origin  Massachusetts.  Plant  hardy,  vig- 
orous, and  productive,  ripens  early ;  fruit  medium,  coni- 
cal, dark  glossy  crimson,  rather  firm,  juicy,  sprightly, 
sub-acid. 

Kentucky  (DOWNER). — Originated  in  Kentucky.  Plant 
very  vigorous,  with  leaf  and  fruit  stalks  hardy  and  pro- 
ductive ;  fruit  large,  roundish,  conical,  dark  red,  moder- 
ately firm,  juicy,  a  little  acid,  rich,  and  good ;  ripens  late  ; 
a  new  sort,  as  yet  but  little  grown ;  promising. 

Large  Early  Scarlet. — An  old  variety,  an  abundant 
bearer,  very  early,  and  hardy;  fruit  small  to  medium, 
roundish,  ovate,  scarlet ;  flesh  tender,  rich,  excellent ; 
should  be  in  every  garden. 

Lennig's  White. — Origin  Pennsylvania.  Plants  vigor- 
ous ;  fruit  large,  roundish,  flattened,  whitish,  tinged  with 
red ;  flesh  soft,  tender,  juicy,  a  delicious  pineapple  flavor, 
excellent ;  a  moderate  bearer,  but  of  such  superior  qual- 
ity as  to  be  indispensable  for  the  amateur's  garden. 

LongWOrth'S  Prolific. — Origin  Ohio.  Plant  vigorous, 
hardy,  very  productive  ;  fruit  large,  roundish,  light  crim- 
son ;  highly  valued  for  canning ;  extensively  grown  in 
California,  where  it  is  regarded  as  one*  of  the  most  profit- 
able. 

•Vicanor. — This  variety  originated  in  the  grounds  of 
Ellwanger  &  Barry,  New  York,  as  eedling  of  Triompke 
de  G-and,  and  so  far  as  tested — now  some  eight  years — 


412  SELECT    VARIETIES    OF   FRUITS. 

proves  to  be  a  valuable  and  profitable  variety,  either  for 
market  or  garden.  It  is  hardy,  vigorous,  productive,  early, 
following  close  to  Early  Scarlet,  and  continues  a  long  time  ; 
fruit  uniform,  moderately  large,  roundish,  conical,  bright 
scarlet ;  flesh  reddish,  rather  firm,  juicy,  rich,  sweet,  fine 
flavor. 

Philadelphia  a — Vigorous,  productive,  ripens  early. 
Large,  roundish,  conical,  bright,  juicy,  sprightly,  good. 

President  Wilder.— Originated  by  Hon.  Marshall  P. 
Wilder,  of  Massachusetts.  Plants  vigorous,  hardy,  pro- 
ductive ;  fruit  large  and  handsome,  obtuse,  conical,  bright 
crimson  scarlet;  flesh  juicy,  firm,  rich,  sweet,  excellent. 
This  is  a  new  variety  of  high  promise,  and  in  general, 
so  far  as  tested,  sustains  all  the  awards  of  praise  that  have 
been  bestowed  upon  it. 

Russell's  Seedling  (RUSSELL'S  PROLIFIC). — Origin  New 
York.  Plant  vigorous  and  productive  ;  fruit  large,  coni- 
cal, scarlet  crimson ;  flesh  rather  soft,  mild,  pleasant. 

Wilson's  Albany, — Origin  New  York.  The  most 
widely  grown  and  universally  successful  and  profitable  of 
any  strawberry  yet  produced.  Plant  very  hardy,  vig- 
orous, and  very  productive,  early  to  ripen  and  continuing 
to  the  latest ;  large,  conical,  deep  crimson ;  flesh  crimson, 
tender,  brisk,  juicy,  sub-acid ;  will  only  rank  as  second  or 
third  in  quality. 

CLASS    II. FOREIGN    VARIETIES. 

Jucunda, — Plants  vigorous,  hardy,  productive;  fruit 
large  to  very  large  and  beautiful,  conical,  sometimes  flat- 
tened coxcomb  shape,  clear,  light  scarlet ;  flesh  light  pink, 
moderately  firm,  sweet,  often  hollow  and  deficient  in  flavor. 

Napoleon  III. — Plants  vigorous  in  rare  cases,  moder- 
ately productive,  generally  bears  only  a  few  large  and 


STRAWBEKKIES.  413 

beautiful  fruit ;  fruit  large  to  very  large,  irregular,  conical, 
sometimes  coxcomb  shape,  light  scarlet ;  flesh  white,  rather 
firm,  juicy,  sweet,  and  rich. 

Perpetual  PillC  (GLOEDE'S). — Plant  vigorous,  produc- 
tive, commences  to  ripen  early  and  continues  a  long  time 
in  bearing ;  fruit  large,  roundish,  flattened,  obtuse,  coni- 
cal, scarlet;  flesh  firm,  juicy,  rich,  sweet. 

Triomphe  dc  Gaud, — Plant  vigorous,  hardy,  and  pro- 
ductive; fruit  large,  roundish,  obtuse,  sometimes  cox- 
comb shape,  bright  red,  greenish  at  apex  end,  glossy ; 
firm,  a  little  hollow  at  core,  juicy,  rich,  aromatic,  agree- 
able. This  and  Jucunda  are  probably  the  most  generally 
successful  of  the  foreign  sorts. 

Trollope'S  Victoria  (GOLDEN  QUEEN,  etc.). — Plant 
vigorous,  moderately  productive;  fruit  large,  roundish, 
pale  red ;  flesh  light  scarlet,  tender,  juicy,  sweet,  rich, 
aromatic. 

CLASS     III. ALPINE   VARIETIES. 

Alpine  Wood. — The  wild  strawberry  of  Europe ;  red 
and  white  in  color.  Plants  very  hardy,  productive,  ripen- 
ing a  long  time  in  succession ;  fruit  small,  conical,  with  a 
peculiar  musky,  agreeable  flavor  ;  easily  grown  from  seed. 

Alpine  Bush. — The  bush  Alpines  make  no  runners,  and 
are  highly  valued  on  account  of  their  long-continued,  reg- 
ular bearing  from  June  to  October,  and  for  the  facility  with 
which  they  can  be  used  as  border  plants,  both  useful  and 
ornamental;  the  fruit  is  small,  red  or  white  in  color,  conical, 
pleasant,  musky,  juicy,  sweet ;  propagated  by  division  or 
seeds. 

Autumnal  Galland. — A  productive  variety,  large,  coni- 
cal, light  red,  excellent. 


414  SELECT   VARIETIES    OF   FRUITS. 

Montreuil. — A  large  and  excellent  variety  of  the  Al- 
pine, much  grown  around  Paris. 

CLASS    IV. HAUTBOIS    STRAWBERRIES. 

Belle  de  Bordelais. — A  new  French  sort,  medium  size, 
dark  red,  fine  flavored ;  plant  very  beautiful,  as  all  this 
class  are,  when  in  bloom ;  productive. 

Monstrous  Haut bois. — Plant  very  vigorous,  with  broad 
serrated  foliage,  highly  ornamental,  very  productive,  bear- 
ing its  fruit,  which  is  large,  on  high  footstalks,  dark  col- 
ored, with  a  rich,  slightly  musky  flavor. 

Royal  HautboiS. — Plant  vigorous,  very  prolific,  fruit 
medium  to  large,  roundish,  conical,  dark  crimson ;  flesh 
soft,  sweet,  musky,  rich  ;  originated  by  Thomas  Rivers,  of 
England,  from  seed  of  Belle  de  Bordelais. 

SECTION  12. — BERBERRIES. 
EPINE   VINETTE  OF  THE  FRENCH. 

Common  Red. — This  is  every  where  well  known  ;  grown 
not  only  for  the  fruit,  which  is  used  for  preserves,  jellies, 
and  pickles,  but  for  ornament.  The  bright  scarlet  oval 
fruit  is  borne  in  rich  clusters,  and  hang  on  until  late  in 
the  autumn. 

Sweet- Fruited  (BERBERIS  DULCIS). — The  fruit  of  this  is 
much  less  acid  than  the  common.  The  plant  i3  not  so 
vigorous. 

Besides  these,  there  are  several  species  and  varieties 
cultivated  chiefly  for  ornament :  The  White-fruited,  The 
Violet-fruited,  the  Variegated-leaved,  foliage  marked  with 
yellow ;  The  Purple-leaved  and  Purple-fruited,  the  most 
unique  and  ornamental  of  all,  tho  former  with  beautiful 
violet-purple  foliage. 


BLACKBERRIES.  ;  415 

They  are  all  easily  propagated  by  layers  or  suckers,  and 
the  rare  sorts  by  grafting ;  seeds  of  the  purple  produce  a 
large  proportion  true. 

SECTION  13. — BLACKBERRIES. 

Dorchester  or  IMPROVED  HIGH  BTTSH. — A  moderately 
strong,  upright  grower,  very  hardy,  a  good,  moderate 
bearer;  fruit  medium  to  large,  oblong,  deep,  shining 
black,  when  fully  ripe,  soft,  juicy,  rich,  of  the  highest 
flavor,  but  not  most  productive.  The  only  sort  culti- 
vated twenty  years  ago. 

Kittatinny. — A  strong  grower,  very  productive,  quite 
hardy ;  fruit  large  to  very  large,  roundish,  conical,  glossy 
black,  rather  firm,  rich,  juicy,  sweet,  excellent;  widely 
disseminated  and  everywhere  a  success ;  profitable  for 
market  or  garden. 

New  Rochelle  or  LAWTON. — A  very  strong  grower, 
with  strong,  stout  spines,  hardy  in  most  localities,  very 
productive ;  fruit  very  large,  oval,  black,  rather  soft, 
juicy,  tender,  sweet,  excellent ;  requires  to  be  fully  ripe, 
otherwise  it  is  acid  and  lacking  in  flavor, 

Wilson's  Early. — A  moderately  strong  grower,  produc- 
tive, and  ripening  early  ;  fruit  large,  oblong,  oval,  black, 
firm,  juicy,  a  little  hard  at  center,  sweet  and  good;  a  profit- 
able, early  market  sort. 

All  the  Blackberries  ripen  just  after  Raspberries,  and 
help  to  fill  up  a  vacant  season  just  before  the  early  peach- 
es, pears,  etc. 

The  fruit  is  not  only  agreeable  for  the  dessert,  but 
among  the  best  for  canning,  and  always  healthful. 

Several  other  varieties  have  been  introduced,  but  none 
of  them  equal  in  value  to  those  described  above. 


416  SELECT  VABIETIES    OF  FRUITS. 

SECTION  14. — MULBERRIES. 

Black* — This  is  a  native  of  Persia.  The  berry  is  an 
inch  and-  a  half  long,  and  nearly  an  inch  in  diameter, 
black,  succulent,  sugary,  and  rich.  The  tree  is  highly 
ornamental,  very  erect,  with  a  large,  spreading  head.  The 
leaves  appear  late  in  spring,  are  large,  heart-shaped,  some- 
times lobed,  deep  green,  and  form  a  dense  shade. 

Everbearing. — This  variety  was  grown  from  seed  by 
Chas.  Downing  and  is  regarded  as  a  valuable  fruit ;  the 
fruit  is  large,  one  and  a  quarter  inch  long,  and  nearly  half 
an  inch  in  diameter,  color  from  maroon  to  blue  black ; 
flesh  juicy,  sugary,  sprightly,  and  vinous  ;  it  ripens  grad- 
ually, a  long  time  in  succession. 

Johnson* — This  variety  originated  in  Ohio.  It  is  a 
strong,  vigorous-growing  tree,-  with  very  large  leaves, 
and  very  productive ;  the  fruit  is  large,  blackish,  sub-acid, 
mild,  pleasantly  agreeable. 

SECTION   15. — GRAPES. 

SELECT   HARDY    NATIVE    GRAPES. 

CLASS  I. BLACK  GRAPES. 

Adirondac, — This  is  a  grape  of  excellent  quality,  the 
vine  moderately  vigorous,  or  rather  delicate,  a  good 
bearer ;  fine  bunch,  large  berry,  ripens  among  the  ear- 
liest ;  well  suited  to  warm  localities.  Originated  in  North- 
ern New  York,  near  Lake  Champlain. 

Alvey. — A  hardy,  vigorous  vine,  moderately  produc- 
tive, bunches  of  medium  size,  berries  small  or  medium ; 
sprightly  vinous,  pretty  free  from  pulp.  Good  in  quality  ; 
not  profitable.  Ripens  with  Concord.  Origin  Pennsyl- 
vania. 

Barry    (ROGERS'  No.  43). — A  vigorous   vine,  produc- 


GRAPES.  417 

tive,  bunches  large,  compact,  berries  large,  round; 
juicy,  sweet,  pleasant ;  flesh  nearly  free  from  pulp.  Ri- 
pens about  time  of  Concord. 

Caiiada  (ARNOLD'S  ISTo.  16). — The  vine  of  this  variety 
is  much  like  Clinton,  its  bunches  and  berries  larger,  flesh 
nearly  free  from  pulp,  juicy  and  good.  Ripens  with  Con- 
cord. Raised  by  Charles  Arnold,  of  Ontario,  and  said  to 
be  a  cross  between  Clinton  and  Black  St.  Peter's. 

Clinton* — A  well-known  old  sort.  The  bunches  are 
small  to  medium,  compact,  berries  small,  black;  colors 
early,  but  requires  a  considerable  time  after  that  to  attain 
full  maturity,  and  will  hang  until  early  winter.  Success- 
ful both  North  and  South.  A  hardy,  productive,  valua- 
ble sort. 

Concord. — Almost  too  well  known  to  need  a  word.  It 
is  a  very  strong,  vigorous,  and  productive  variety;  suc- 
ceeding in  almost  every  soil  and  locality.  One  of  the 
earliest  and  most  profitable ;  valuable  for  garden  or  vine- 
yard. The  bunch  is  large,  shouldered ;  berry  large,  round, 
black ;  flesh  juicy,  pleasantly  sweet,  agreeable ;  skin  too 
thin  to  carry  well,  and  therefore  not  good  for  distant 
markets. 

Cornucopia  (ARNOLD'S  No.  2). — Medium-sized  berry, 
with  a  large,  compact,  shouldered  bunch  ;  flesh  nearly  free 
from  pulp ;  juicy,  sweet,  sprightly,  and  good.  Ripens 
with  Concord.  Same  origin  as  Canada. 

Creveling. — An  old  variety.  Supposed  origin  Penn- 
sylvania. A  fine  grape,  but  does  not  always  set  well. 
The  bunch  is  medium,  often  very  loose,  shouldered  ;  berry 
medium,  round,  blue  bloom ;  flesh  tender,  juicy,  sweet, 
very  little  pulp ;  richer  than  Concord,  and  ripens  a  little 
before  that  variety. 

Cynthiana. — A  variety  much  like  Norton's  Virginia. 
Highly  prized  for  wine  purposes  in  the  West ;  vine  vigor- 

18* 


418  SELECT    VARIETIES    OF    FRUITS. 

ous,  hardy,  and  productive,  and  by  some  deemed  superior 
to  Norton. 

Elsinburgh, — An  old  variety;  a  moderate,  regular 
bearer;  much  esteemed,  where  known,  for  the  table.  The 
bunch  is  pretty  large,  long,  and  loose,  shouldered ; 
berries  small,  round ;  flesh  free  from  pulp,  juicy,  sweet, 
excellent. 

Essex  (ROGERS'  No.  41). — Vine  a  vigorous  and  strong 
grower,  productive ;  bunch  medium  size,  short,  shoul- 
dered ;  berry  large,  tender,  and  sweet.  Ilipens  with  Con- 
cord. 

Eumelan. — A  comparatively  new  variety,  it  has  not 
yet  been  much  tested.  The  vine  is  moderately  vigorous ; 
bunch  of  medium  size;  berry  rather  small  ;  flesh  tender, 
sweet,  rich,  juicy,  excellent.  It  promises  great  value  for 
the  amateur  garden  or  for  a  table  variety,  and  may  be  val- 
ued for  vineyard.  A  good  bearer.  Origin  New  York. 
Supposed  to  be  a  seedling  of  the  Isabella. 

Hartford  Prolific, — A  very  popular  variety  because  of 
its  early  maturity.  The  vine  is  vigorous,  hardy,  and  a 
good  bearer  ;  bunch  large,  shouldered ;  berry  large,  round, 
musky ;  thick  skin,  black,  with  a  bloom  ;  flesh  sweet,  with  a 
tough  acid  pulp ;  rich  and  good  when  fully  ripe.  Liable 
to  drop  its  berries  from  the  bunch  when  fully  ripe,  and  more 
so  on  sand  than  clay  soils.  A  week  earlier  than  Concord. 

Hcrbemont, — A  Southern  variety,  highly  esteemed  in 
Missouri  and  many  Southern  localities,  as  profitable  and 
desirable  for  wine  or  table.  North  it  does  not  ripen  its 
fruit  generally.  The  bunch  is  large,  compact ;  berries  be- 
low medium,  almost  black ;  flesh  juicy,  sweet,  rich,  aro- 
matic. 

Herbert  (ROGERS' No.  44). — A  vigorous,  strong  grower. 
Moderately  productive.  Bunch  rather  loose,  berry  me- 
dium ;  flesh  tender,  sweet,  a  little  pulpy,  very  good.  Ri- 
pens with  Concord.  A  large,  handsome  variety. 


GRAPES.  419 

Isabella. — This  old,  well-known  sort  continues  popular 
and  profitable  in  many  localities,  but  is  rapidly  being  su- 
perseded. It  is  a  vigorous  grower,  an  immense  bearer, 
and  hardy,  but  in  some  localities  it  is  liable  to  mildew. 
In  quality,  it  is  the  best  of  any  of  the  black  grapes  of  its 
season.  Bunches  large,  rather  loose ;  berries  oval,  pretty 
large  ;  flesh  tender,  juicy,  sweet,  slightly  musky.  Still 
one  of  the  best  for  market,  where  it  ripens,  as  it  carries  and 
keeps  well. 

Israella. — Originated  with  Dr.  C.  W.  Grant,  of  lona 
Island,  N.  Y.  The  vine  is  vigorous  and  a  good  bearer, 
ripening  about  with  Concord.  Bunch  medium;  ber- 
ries above  medium,  black;  flesh  free  from  pulp,  juicy  and 
sweet. 

Ives  (IvEs*  SEEDLING). — This  originated  with  Henry 
Ives,  Cincinnati,  O.  The  vine  is  very  vigorous,  hardy, 
and  very  productive.  It  is  esteemed  as  a  profitable  wine 
grape,  and  is  a  tolerable  table  grape  when  fully  ripe. 
Bunch  medium  size,  compact,  shouldered  ;  berry  medium, 
roundish  oval ;  flesh  with  some  considerable  pulp,  yet 
juicy  and  sweet.  Ripens  with  Concord. 

Merrimack  (ROGERS'  No.  19). — Vine  vigorous  and  pro- 
ductive. Bunches  medium,  rather  short ;  berry  large, 
round,  slight  bloom ;  flesh  tender,  juicy,  sweet.  One  of 
the  earliest  and  best- of  the  Rogers  varieties. 

Miles* — Of  Pennsylvania  origin.  Vine  a  moderate 
grower,  hardy,  and  very  productive.  One  of  the  very 
earliest,  good  grapes  to  ripen.  Bunch  and  berry  small, 
round ;  flesh  tender,  slight  pulp  at  center,  juicy,  vinous, 
very  good. 

Norton's  Virginia. — Introduced  to  cultivation  by  Dr. 
D.  N.  Norton,  of  Richmond,  Ya.  It  is  a  strong,  vigorous, 
long  grower,  producing  very  abundantly,  and  highly  es- 
teemed for  wine.  Bunch  medium,  shouldered;  berries 


420  SELECT    VARIETIES    OF    FRUITS. 

small,  purplish  black  ;  flesh  tender,  juicy,  rich,  brisk,  rough, 
sweet  flavor.  Although  most  largely  grown  in  Missouri, 
it  is  equally  adapted  to  the  North,  as  it  ripens  with  Isa- 
bella. 

Othello  (ARNOLD'S  No.  1). — Originated  with  Charles 
Arnold,  Canada  West.  A  good,  strong  grower  and  pro- 
ductive, ripening  early  or  with  Delaware.  Bunch  large, 
shouldered,  compact ;  berry  large ;  flesh  firm,  juicy,  a  lit- 
tle pulp.  Sprightly,  very  good. 

Senasqua, — Originated  with  S.  "W.  TInderhill,  Croton 
Point,  N.  Y.  A  vigorous  grower,  and  productive.  Bunch 
medium  to  large;  berry  medium  or  above;  purplish  black ; 
flesh  juicy,  tender,  free  from  pulp,  sweet,  vinous,  excel- 
lent. Ripens  about  with  Concord,  or  perhaps  a  few  days 
later.  Said  to  be  a  cross  between  Concord  and  Black 
Prince.  New  and  but  partially  tested. 

Telegraph  (CHRISTINE). — Originated  in  Philadelphia. 
Vine  vigorous,  hardy,  very  productive ;  one  of  the  earliest 
to  ripen.  Bunch  above  medium  to  large,  compact ;  berry 
large,  round,  black ;  flesh  juicy,  tender,  very  little  pulp, 
not  as  sweet  as  Hartford  Prolific,  but  free  of  all  the  musky 
flavor,  and  ripening  at  same  time. 

To  Kalon* — An  old  variety,  originated  at  Lansingburgh, 
N.  Y.  A  vigorous  grower,  hardy,  but  irregularly  pro- 
ductive. Does  not  ripen  evenly.  Bunches  large,  shoul- 
dered, berries  almost  purplish  black,  covered  with  bloom  ; 
flesh  Very  sweet,  buttery,  very  little  pulp.  A  large,  hand- 
some grape,  but  quite  variable  in  quality. 

Union  Village  (ONTARIO). — Origin  Ohio.  A  very  vig- 
orous grower,  with  immense  foliage,  productive.  Bunch 
and  berry  very  large  ;  flesh  free  from  hard  pulp,  tender, 
juicy,  vinous,  pleasant.  Vine  rather  tender  at  the  North  ; 
needs  protection.  A  splendid  fruit. 

Wilder  (ROGERS'  No.  4).— This  is  believed  to  be  the 


GRAPES.  421 

best  of  the  black  varieties.  Grown  by  E.  S.  Rogers,  Salem, 
Mass.  The  vine  is  vigorous,  hardy,  a  good  bearer,  and 
the  fruit  hangs  well  to  the  vine,  and  is  a  good  keeper. 
Bunch  large,  compact,  shouldered ;  berry  large,  round, 
black ;  flesh  tender,  slight  pulp  at  center,  juicy,  sweet, 
rather  rich  and  aromatic.  Ripens  about  with  Concord. 
Promises  to  be  valuable  for  market  on  account  of  its  size 
and  beauty. 

York  Madeira  (CABBY'S  AUGUST). — An  old  variety. 
Originated  in  Pennsylvania ;  vine  moderately  vigorous, 
hardy,  productive  ;  bunch  and  berry  medium  ;  flesh  sweet, 
sprightly  vinous. 

CLASS  II. — RED  GRAPES. 

Agawam  (ROGERS'  No.  15). — Vine  very  vigorous,  hardy, 
productive,  a  little  liable  to  mildew;  bunch  variable,  some- 
times large  and  fine,  often  small  and  imperfect ;  berries 
large,  roundish,  thick  skin;  flesh  tender,  juicy, sweet,  aro- 
matic, hard  center  pulp,  with  a  native  musky  aroma.  Gen- 
erally regarded  as  the  best  of  Rogers'  red  varieties. 

Catawba.— A  native  of  Maryland.  The  Catawba  does 
not  always  ripen  at  the  North,  except  in  certain  localities ; 
but  where  it  does  ripen  perfectly,  no  grape  of  its  season 
surpasses  it  in  quality  or  value.  It  has  been  subject  to 
disease  of  rot,  etc.,  in  some  localities,  but  it  is  again  re- 
newing itself,  and  in  sections  where,  a  few  years  since,  it 
was  unprofitable,  it  is  now  one  of  the  best.  It  has  been 
more  generally  grown  as  a  wine  and  table  grape  than  any 
other,  except,  perhaps,  the  Isabella,  and  to-day  holds  su- 
premacy in  many  localities.  Except  in  sheltered  or  favored 
localities  and  in  good  seasons,  it  does  not  ripen  well  in 
Western  New  York.  Bunch  medium  to  large,  loose ;  ber- 
ries large,  coppery  red,  with  light  bloom,  round ;  flesh 
slightly  pulpy  at  center,  juicy,  very  sweet,  musky,  aro- 


422  SELECT    VARIETIES    OF    FRUITS. 

matic,  rich.  Ripens  early  in  October,  but  will  hang,  and  is 
improved,  until  weather  becomes  too  cold.  Keeps  well 
during  winter. 

Delaware i — This  in  quality  is  one  of  our  most  delicate 
and  best  of  native  varieties.  The  vine  is  perfecely  hardy, 
a  healthy  grower,  requiring  rich  soil,  has  short-jointed 
wood,  and  bears  abundantly,  so  much  so,  that,  if  long 
pruned,  which  is  best,  it  should  have  more  or  less  of  its 
fruit  thinned  out.  As  a  table-dessert  grape,  or  for  wine,  it 
is  one  of  the  best.  The  bunch  is  small,  compact,  shoulder- 
ed ;  berries  small,  round,  clear,  light  red,  almost  translu- 
cent ;  free  from  pulp,  sweet,  vinous,  aromatic. 

Diana* — Originated  in  Boston,  Mass.  Vine  vigorous, 
healthy,  hardy,  and  productive,  requires  age  to  develop 
its  true  qualities.  A  thin,  light,  or  poor  soil  is  better 
suited  to  it  than  one  over-rich.  It  hangs  well  after  ripen- 
ing, and  is  one  of  the  best  winter  keepers  among  grapes. 
The  bunches  are  large,  compact ;  berry  medium,  reddish 
lilac ;  flesh  juicy,  nearly  free  from  pulp,  sweet,  aromatic  ; 
colors  early,  but  does  not  attain  perfect  maturity  earlier 
than  Catawba.  A  valuable  table  and  wine  grape  where  it 
ripens  well.  Supposed  to  be  a  seedling  from  the  Catawba. 

Goethe  (ROGERS'  "No.  1). — Vine  very  vigorous  and  pro- 
ductive. Ripens  with  Catawba.  Succeeds  well  South  and 
South-west,  or  wherever  the  Catawba  ripens  perfectly. 
At  the  North  and  East,  it  does  not  ripen  perfectly,  except 
in  sheltered,  warm  locations.  Bunch  large,  moderately 
compact ;  amber  flushed  with  red  ;  flesh  tender,  melting, 
sweet,  juicy,  delicious. 

lona. — Originated  by  Dr.  Grant.  Vine  moderately 
vigorous,  hardy,  productive.  The  fruit  colors  early,  but 
does  not  really  ripen  much,  if  any,  earlier  than  Catawba. 
It  has  been  widely  disseminated,  but  is  not  found  success- 
ful as  a  vineyard  sort,  except  in  certain  localities.  Bunch 
medium  to  large,  shouldered ;  berries  medium  size,  round- 


GRAPES.  423 

ish  oval ;  light,  clear  red,  thin  bloom ;  flesh  soft,  tender, 
vinous,  juicy,  sweet,  delicious.  A  grape  of  superior  qual- 
ity, and  should  be  in  every  garden  where  the  climate  is 
suitable. 

Lindley  (ROGERS'  No.  9). — Vine  healthy  ;  not  as  vigor- 
ous or  strong  grower  as  others  of  the  Rogers  seedlings  ; 
foliage  rather  sparse ;  a  good  bearer.  Bunch  medium, 
compact;  berry  medium,  roundish,  pale  reddish;  flesh 
sweet,  tender,  juicy,  slightly  aromatic.  One  of  the  best 
and  earliest  of  the  Rogers  list. 

Massasoit  (ROGERS'  No.  3). — Vine  moderately  vigor- 
ous, productive  ;  bunch  medium,  rather  loose  ;  berry  large, 
roundish,  light,  claret  red  ;  flesh  tender,  juicy,  sweet ;  ri- 
pens just  before  Concord ;  is  a  desirable  variety  for  the 
garden. 

Mottled. — Originated  with  Charles  Carpenter,  Kelley's 
Island,  O.  Yine  a  healthy,  moderate  grower,  with  short- 
jointed  wood,  very  productive  ;  bunch  medium,  very  com- 
pact ;  berry  medium,  round,  mottled  red  ;  flesh  juicy, 
rich,  sweet,  a  little  hard  at  center,  vinous.  An  excellent 
grape  for  wine  or  table ;  hangs  a  long  time  on  the  vine, 
and  keeps  remarkably  well. 

Salem  (ROGERS'  No.  22). — Yine  healthy,  vigorous,  and 
productive  ;  bunch  large,  compact ;  berry  large,  round  ; 
dark,  coppery  red ;  flesh  tender,  juicy,  slight  pulp,  sweet, 
a  little  foxy,  aromatic.  Ripens  about  same  season  as  Isa- 
bella. 

Walter. — Origin  Poughkeepsie,  N.  Y.  Yine  hardy, 
healthy,  vigorous,  short-jointed,  very  productive  ;  bunch 
medium,  compact ;  berries  medium,  round,  light  red;  flesh 
sweet,  juicy,  deliciously  rich  vinous.  Ripens  shortly  after 
Concord.  Promises  to  be  valuable  both  for  table  and 
wine. 


424  SELECT    VARIETIES    OF   FRUITS. 

CLASS   III. — WHITE    GRAPES. 

Allen's  Hybrid. — Vine  vigorous  grower,  not  hardy,  pro- 
ductive, liable  to  mildew,  ripens  early ;  bunch  medium  or 
above,  pretty  compact;  berry  medium,  roundish,  pale 
whitish  yellow;  flesh  tender,  juicy,  sweet,  slightly  vinous, 
delicious.  Rarely  escapes  destruction  by  mildew  in  West- 
ern New  York. 

AutUChon  (ARNOLD'S  No.  5). — Originated  with  Charles 
Arnold,  Paris,  C.  W.  Said  to  be  a  cross  between  Clinton 
and  Golden  Chasselas.  Yine  moderately  vigorous  and 
productive ;  bunch  long,  moderately  compact ;  berry  me- 
dium ;  greenish  white,  with  a  golden  hue  when  fully  ripe  ; 
flesh  free  from  pulp,  juicy,  sweet,  sprightly,  and  rich. 
Said  to  ripen  with  Delaware.  New  and  but  little  known. 

CrotOD, — Originated  by  S.  Underbill,  Croton  Point, 
N.  Y.  Said  to  be  a  cross  between  Delaware  and  Golden 
Chasselas.  Yine  vigorous,  very  productive ;  bunch  large, 
shouldered ;  berry  medium  or  above,  greenish  yellow ; 
flesh  juicy,  sprightly,  sweet,  rich,  delicious.  Ripens 
among  the  earliest,  or  about  with  Hartford  Prolific. 
Promises  to  be  a  valuable  garden  variety. 

( uyahoga. — Origin  Ohio.  Yine  vigorous,  healthy,  and 
productive,  requires  a  warm  soil  and  location  at  the  North  ; 
mildews  at  the  South;  bunch  medium;  berry  medium, 
greenish  amber  ;  flesh  tender,  juicy,  vinous,  sweet ;  when 
well  ripened,  one  of  the  best.  Ripens  with  Catawba. 

Lydia. — Originated  on  Kelley's  Island,  O.  Yine  moder- 
ately vigorous,  with  rather  sparse  foliage,  moderate  bearer 
while  young,  good  bearer  when  old  and  long  pruned; 
bunch  medium,  short,  compact;  berry  round,  greenish 
white,  amber  yellow  at  maturity ;  flesh  juicy,  rich,  sweet, 
very  little  pulp.  Ripens  with  Delaware.  One  of  the  very 
best  in  quality. 


GRAPES.  425 

Martha,— Raised  by  Samuel  Miller,  of  Bluffton,  Mo. 
Vine  a  vigorous  grower  and  a  good  bearer,  hardy  and 
healthy ;  bunch  medium ;  berry  large,  roundish,  greenish 
yellow  ;  flesh  juicy,  sweet,  a  little  pulp  at  center.  Ripens 
with  Concord. 

Maxatawney. — Originated  in  Pennsylvania.  Vine  vig- 
orous, hardy,  healthy,  and  productive.  Ripens  with  Isa- 
bella, and  is  one  of  the  best  of  the  white  grapes  ;  bunch  me- 
dium, rather  loose,  berries  medium,  roundish  oval,  green- 
ish or  yellowish  white,  tinted  with  amber ;  flesh  free  from 
palp,  tender,  sweet,  juicy,  sprightly,  delicious. 

Rebecca. — Origin  Hudson,  N".  Y.  Vine  a  free  but  not 
strong  grower,  an  abundant  bearer,  hardy  in  most  locali- 
ties ;  ripens  soon  after  Concord,  and  deserves  a  place  in 
every  garden;  bunch  medium,  compact ;  berries  medium, 
greenish  yellow,  almost  golden  amber  at  full  ripeness ;  flesh 
rather  firm,  juicy,  sweet,  delicious.  When  well  ripened  it 
is  not  surpassed  by  any  of  the  native  grapes. 

SELECT     FOREIGN     GRAPES. 

CLASS  I. — BLACK  OR  PURPLE  GRAPES. 

Alicante  (BLACK  PALESTINE,  etc.). — Bunch  large,  shoul- 
dered, compact ;  berries  nearly  round,  black,  with  a  little 
bloom;  flesh  tender,  juicy,  fine.  An  excellent  late  varie- 
ty; hangs  well. 

Black  Frontignan  (MUSCAT  NOIR,  etc.). — Bunches  long ; 
berries  medium  size,  round ;  flesh  musky,  rich  ;  a  good 
bearer. 

Black  Hamburgh. — One  of  the  most  popular,  because 
well  known  and  tested.  It  is  an  admirable  grape,  and  a 
general  favorite;  bunch  large,  often  double-shouldered; 
berries  large,  roundish,  slightly  oval;  juicy,  very  sugary, 
rich. 


426  SELECT    VARIETIES    OF   FRUITS. 

Black  St,  Peter's, — Bunches  large,  long  ;  berries  large, 
black  bloom;  flesh  tender,  rich,  and  juicy.  Late,  and 
hangs  a  long  time  after  ripe  ;  valuable. 

Burckhardt'S  Prince. — Bunches  long ;  berries  medium, 
deep  black ;  flesh  firm,  juicy,  vinous. 

Champion  Hamburgh, — An  excellent  grape.  Much 
like  Black  Hamburgh. 

Due  de  Magenta* — Bunch  and  berry  large  ;  flesh  juicy, 
rich ;  ripens  sometime  before  Black  Hamburgh. 

Early  Black  Bordeaux.— Bunches  short,  shouldered; 
berries  medium  or  above ;  flesh  tender,  melting,  rich,  and 
sweet.  One  of  the  best  early  purple  or  black  grapes 
known. 

Gros  Maroc. — Bunch  large,  compact,  shouldered ;  ber- 
ries large,  round,  black;  flesh  firm,  sweet,  vinous.  A  fine 
grower,  and  ripens  well. 

Jura  Muscat. — Bunch  large,  shouldered ;  berries  above 
medium,  oval ;  flesh  rich,  flavored  with  a  fine  Muscat 
aroma. 

Lady  Downe's. — Bunches  large,  rather  loose,  shouldered ; 
berries  above  medium,  roundish  oval ;  black,  with  a  thin 
bloom;  flesh  firm,  sweet,  and  rich.  One  of  the  most 
valuable  late  varieties.  Hangs  a  long  time  after  ripen- 
ing. 

Muscat  Hamburgh, — Bunches  large  and  long  ;  berries 
large,  roundish  oval;  flesh  juicy,  rich,  excellent;  flavor  of 
Muscat  of  Alexandria.  Requires  good  culture,  but  is  of 
the  highest  quality. 

Muscat  LierTal. — Bunch  medium ;  berries  round,  me- 
dium size,  deep  purplish  black ;  flesh  rich,  sugary,  with  a 
slight  Muscat  flavor.  Yery  early. 

Muscat  d'  lout. — Bunch  and  berries  medium ;  round  in- 
clining to  oval ;  flesh  very  rich  and  juicy.  A  good  early 
grape. 


GBAPKS.  427 

Mrs,  Pince's  Black  Muscat. — Bunches  large,  shoul- 
dered; berries  medium  size,  oval,  purplish  black,  thin 
bloom ;  flesh  firm,  sweet,  vinous,  with  a  Muscat  flavor. 
A  valuable  new  grape. 

Trentham  Black. — Bunches  large,  tapering,  and  shoul- 
dered ;  berries  oval ;  skin  tough,  jet  black ;  flesh  juicy, 
rich,  sugary,  and  vinous.  Valued  highly  for  the  cold 
vinery. 

CLASS  II. — RED  GRAPES. 

Grizzly  Frontignan. — Bunches  large;  berries  large, 
round;  skin  thick,  pale  brown,  blended  with  pink  and 
yellow;  flesh  very  juicy,  rich,  musky,  high-flavored. 

CLASS   III. — WHITE    GRAPES. 

Bo  wood  Muscat. — Bunch  large  ;  berries  very  large, 
bright  amber  color;  flesh  rich,  juicy,  sweet,  fine  Muscat 
flavor.  A  superb  grape ;  sets  and  ripens  tolerably  well 
in  cold  vineries.  Supersedes  to  some  extent  the  Muscat 
of  Alexandria  and  Canon  Hall  Muscat. 

Buckland'S  Sweetwater, — Bunch  large,  shouldered; 
berries  round,  slightly  oval ;  skin  thin,  amber  color,  with 
a  thin  white  bloom ;  flesh  juicy,  sweet,  delicious. 

Chasselas  Musqul, — Bunches  medium  size,  long,  loose; 
berries  medium  size,  round  ;  skin  thin,  yellowish  white  ; 
flesh  tender,  very  juicy,  rich  musky  flavor.  A  delicious 
grape,  highest  flavored  of  the  Chasselas.  Sometimes 
cracks.  Requires  severe  thinning. 

Chasselas  Royal. — Bunches  short,  compact,  shouldered  ; 
berries  round,  large,  pale  amber  when  ripe.  An  excellent 
grape. 

Dccon's  Superb, — Bunch  and  berry  large.  Truly  a 
superb  white  grape. 


428  SELECT    VARIETIES     OF    FKUIT;?. 

Early  Smyrna  Frontignan. — Bunches  medium,  well 
formed,  not  shouldered ;  berries  medium,  round,  bright 
amber  ;  flesh  juicy,  melting,  rich,  and  delicious.  One  of 
the  earliest  to  ripen.  Well  suited  to  a  cold  vinery. 

Early  Silver  Frontignan. — Bunch  medium  to  large, 
shouldered ;  berries  large,  roundish  oval,  whitish  silvery 
yellow;  flesh  melting,  juicy,  rich,  agreeable.  An  early 
and  productive  sort.  Very  desirable. 

Foster's  White  Seedling, — Bunch  large  ;  berries  above 
medium,  roundish  oval,  yellowish  amber ;  flesh  tender, 
melting,  sweet,  and  rich  flavored.  A  new  variety,  supe- 
rior to  Royal  Muscadine ;  ripening  at  the  same  time. 

Golden  Champion. — Bunches  large,  heavily  shouldered ; 
berries  very  large,  obovate  or  ovate,  to  almost  round  ;  flesh 
firm,  very  juicy,  tender,  and  rich.  A  superb  new  va- 
riety. 

Madelaine  Royal. — Bunch  medium;  berries  medium, 
roundish ;  flesh  tender,  juicy,  excellent.  One  of  the  best 
early  white  sorts. 

Primavis  Frontignan, — Bunches  large,  long,  shoul- 
dered ;  berries  medium  to  large,  round,  amber  color ;  flesh 
rather  solid,  tender,  juicy,  sweet,  and  rich.  One  of  the 
finest  of  the  early  Muscat  Chasselas  family. 

Royal  Muscadine  (CIIASSELAS  DE  FOXTAIKEBLEAU,  etc.). 
bunches  large  and  shouldered ;  berries  large,  greenish 
white,  becoming  amber  when  fully  ripe ;  flesh  tender,  rich, 
and  delicious.  An  excellent  old  sort ;  still  popular. 

Syrian. — Bunches  enormously  large,  with  broad  shoul- 
ders ;  berries  large,  oval ;  skin  thick,  tawny  yellow,  or  am- 
ber when  mature;  flesh  firm  and  solid,  moderately  juicy 
and  sweet ;  bunches  weighing  nineteen  and  a  half  pounds 
have  been  grown. 

TrebbianOt — Bunches  large,  broad,  shouldered  ;  berries 


FIGS.  429 

medium,  roundish  oval,  whitish,  with    a    delicate   bloom ; 
flesh  firm,  rich,  sweet.     A  fine  late  grape. 

White  Frontignan. — Bunches  medium,  rather  long,  not 
shouldered ;  berries  medium,  round,  dull  white,  or  yellow, 
thin  bloom ;  flesh  tender,  rich,  perfumed,  musky.  An  old 
and  favorite  variety,  known  under  many  names  ;  so  very 
hardy  in  its  habit  and  uniform  productiveness  as  to  be 
widely  grown  and  esteemed. 

White  Muscat  of  Alexandria. — Bunches  very  large, 
long,  and  loose,  shouldered;  berries  large,  oval,  pale  am- 
ber, with  a  thin  white  bloom  ;  flesh  firm,  moderately  juicy, 
sweet,  rich  Muscat  flavor.  An  old,  well-known  variety  ; 
requires  a  high  temperature  to  mature  it  thoroughly.  It 
is  from  this  that  the  Muscatel  raisins  arc  made.  Succeeds 
well  in  the  open  air  in  California. 

White  Nice. — Bunch  very  large,  shouldered, loose  ;  ber- 
ries medium,  roundish,  greenish  white,  becoming  yellow- 
ish at  maturity ;  flesh  sweet,  very  good  flavor.  Bunches 
weighing  eighteen  pounds  have  been  grown.  It  is  very 
prolific. 

SUB-TROPICAL  FRUITS. 
SECTION    10. — FIGS. 

The  culture  of  the  Fig  in  all  of  the  Southern  States,,  Cali- 
fornia, and  Utah  is  as  easy  as  that  of  the  apple  in  the  Mid- 
dle States,  and  it  promises  to  become  one  of  the  profitable 
branches  of  fruit  culture.  In  the  North,  they  are  easily 
grown  in  pots  or  tubs. 

Adams* — Very  large,  turbinate,  brownish  purple ;  leaves 
very  large  ;  new.  This  is  said  to  be  the  largest  variety 
grown. 

Ange'lique  (ANGELICA). — Medium  size,  obovate ;  yellow, 


430  SELECT   VARIETIES    OF    FIIUITC. 

dotted  with  long  greenish  white  specks  ;  flesh  white,  tinged 
with  red  at  the  center.     An  abundant  bearer. 

Brown  Ischia, — Medium  size,  roundish  turbinate,  light 
brown  or  chestnut-colored ;  flesh  purple,  sweet,  and  high- 
flavored.  An  excellent  bearer. 

Brown  Turkey. — Large,  pyriform  ;  brownish  red,  cov- 
ered with  blue  bloom  ;  flesh  red  and  very  luscious.  Tree 
very  hardy  and  prolific. 

Brunswick* — Very  large,  pyriform,  depressed  at  apex  ; 
greenish  yellow,  with  violet  brown  on  sun  side;  flesh 
tinged  with  red  at  center,  rich  and  excellent.  Tree  one  of 
the  hardiest,  and  a  capital  bearer. 

Early  Violet. — Small,  roundish,  brownish  red,  covered 
with  a  blue  bloom  ;  flesh  red,  fine  flavored ;  tree  hardy 
and  abundant  bearer.  One  of  the  best  for  pots  and 
forcing. 

PergUSSata. — Small,  round,  compressed  at  ends  ;  pur- 
pi  isli  brown,  with  pale  spots  in  the  sun ;  flesh  deep  red, 
rich  and  luscious.  Hangs  a  long  time. 

White  Genoa. — Large,  roundish  turbinate;  skin  thin, 
pale  yellowish ;  flesh  red,  excellent  flavor ;  only  a  mod- 
erate bearer. 

SECTION  17. — CHANGES — CITRUS. 

The  cultivation  of  the  Orange  is  now  attracting  more  at- 
tention in  Florida  and  Southern  California,  than  it  has  ever 
done  before.  In  some  parts  of  Florida — the  Indian 
River  country,  in  particular — the  crop  rarely  fails  from 
any  cause,  and  the  fruit  is  of  the  finest  quality.  Where 
the  soil  is  suitable,  and  proper  care  bestowed  on  the 
cultivation,  an  orange  grove  must  be  quite  as  profitable 
as  the  best  of  our  Northern  orchards. 


CHANGES.  431 

The  trees  bear  annually,  come  into  bearing  at  four  or 
five  years  from  bud  or  graft,  and  continue  to  improve  from 
year  to  year  for  a  long  period.  They  live  to  a  great  age 
under  favorable  circumstances — trees  are  recorded  some 
400  years  old. 

Previous  to  the  extraordinary  frost  of  1835,  there  were 
single  trees  at  St.  Augustine  that  yielded  annually  about 
40,000  oranges. 

This,  at  the  average  price  in  the  grove,  two  cents, 
would  be  $800.  A  handsome  income  from  one  tree  !  The 
oldest  groves  now  in  Florida  are  twenty-five  to  thirty 
years  old.  The  orange  flourishes  best  in  a  rich  calcareous 
soil.  The  most  thrifty  and  fruitful  plantations  we  saw, 
were  on  shell  lands,  which  occur  frequently  in  Florida — a 
dark,  rich  loam  mixed  with  small  shells.  In  the  absence 
of  shells,  lime  will  no  doubt  be  beneficial.  The  propaga- 
tion is  similar  to  other  fruit-trees. 

Stocks  for  grafting  are  either  procured  by  raising  seed- 
lings of  the  Bitter  or  Wild  Orange,  which  can  be  worked 
at  the  age  of  one  or  two  years  from  seed ;  or  plants  may 
in  some  places  be  procured  from  the  woods.  In  many  lo- 
calities in  Florida,  the  Wild  Orange  abounds  in  the  woods, 
and  seems  to  be  as  much  at  home  as  though  it  were  indi- 
genous. The  trees  are  planted  in  groves  at  twenty  to 
thirty  feet  apart.  It  takes  ten  or  twelve  years  to  bring 
the  trees  to  a  really  remunerative  condition. 

After  the  fourth  or  fifth  year  the  crop  will  probably  pay 
for  cultivation. 

VARIETIES. 

There  are  a  great  many  varieties  in  cultivation,  intro- 
duced from  China,  Spain,  and  other  orange-growing  coun- 
tries, but  that  grown  in  Florida,  which  was  no  doubt  in- 
troduced by  the  Spaniards,  has  no  superior.  It  is  known 
as  the 


432  SELECT    VARIETIES    OF    FRUITS. 

St.  Augustine  Orange,  a  variety  of  the  Sweet  Orange, 
in  the  markets,  often  sold  under  local  names,  such  as 
"Mellonville,"  "Indian  River,"  etc.  It  is  a  large,  hand- 
some fruit,  with  moderately  thin  skin,  somewhat  rough  ; 
pulp  full  of  sweet,  sprightly,  delicious  juice.  It  resembles 
the  Cuba  Orange,  but  seems  to  be  larger  and  of  better 
quality. 

The  Havana. — This  is  the  most  common  in  our  markets 
and  best  known.  A  large,  excellent  fruit ;  quite  similar 
to  the  preceding. 

The  Maltese,  or  MALTA  BLOOD,  has  a  thick  and  spongy 
rind;  pulp  red  arid  delicious,  but  sometimes  a  trace  of  bit- 
tern ess. 

The  Mandarin  is  a  small,  flattened  fruit,  thin  rind,  with 
a  dark  orange  pulp  ;  j  uicy  and  rich. 

The  Bergamot  has  small  flowers  and  pear-shaped  fruit ; 
very  fragrant,  and  much  used  by  perfumers. 

The  Variegated-Leaved  is  a  variety  with  variegated 
foliage;  ornamental. 

The  Shaddock  ( Citrus  decumana]  is  a  fruit  of  great 
size,  striking  in  appearance,  but  not  of  value,  except  for 
confectionery. 

The  Tangerine  is  small,  sweet,  and  rich ;  very  prolific. 
One  of  the  best  for  pot  culture. 

The  Otaheitc  is  a  small  variety,  a  dwarf  growing  kind  ; 
blooms  and  bears  abundantly  when  not  over  a  foot  high. 

The  St.  Michaels  is  a  medium-sized  fruit,  pale  yellow, 
with  a  thin  rind,  very  delicious,  and  tree  an  abundant  bear- 
er. Chiefly  grown  in  the  Portuguese  island  St.  Michael. 

The  Myrtle-Leaved  (or  CHINESE)  is  a  small  fruited  va- 
riety, a  dwarf  tree ;  more  curious  than  profitable. 

Beside  these  are  the  Egg,  Embiguo  or  Navel,  Silver, 
Pernambuco,  Exquisite,  Du  Roi,  Excelsior,  Prolific,  Did- 


LEMON,    LIME,    AND    POMEGRANATE.  433 

cississima,  and  several  others  recently  introduced,  some  of 
which  may  prove  to  be  valuable. 


LEMON    AND    LIME. 

The  Lemon  (  Citrus  Limonium)  is  not  as  hardy  as  the 
orange,  and  is  improved  by  being  worked  upon  the  bitter- 
orange  stock.  There  is  an  Italian  variety  which  is  sweet. 

The  Lime  ( Citrus  Limetta). — Several  varieties  in  culti- 
vation. That  commonly  grown  is  a  profuse  bearer. 
Hedges  arc  formed  of  it  in  the  West  Indies.  It  is  grown 
extensively  in  California,  and  is  very  profitable.  It  is 
used  for  the  same  purpose  as  the  lemon,  and  for  pre- 
serves. 

THE    POMEGRANATE. 

The  Pomegranate  is  a  native  of  China  and  the  south  of 
Europe,  and  its  culture  in  our  Southern  States  and  Cali- 
fornia is  perfectly  successful.  It  is  a  low,  deciduous  tree, 
with  long,  narrow  leaves.  The  fruit  has  a  very  refresh- 
ing, sweet,  rather  acid  pulp,  and  its  singular  and  beauti- 
ful appearance  makes  it  a  welcome  addition  to  the  des- 
sert. The  tree  is  propagated  like  other  fruit-trees,  by 
seeds,  layers,  cuttings,  graftings,  etc.,  and  grows  readi- 
ly in  any  ordinary  good  garden  soil. 

The  varieties  known  as  the  best  are  the  Sweet-fruited, 
with  sweet  and  juicy  pulp ;  the  Sub-acid-fruited,  which  is 
the  variety  commonly  grown  in  gardens  ;  the  Violet,  which 
is  a  large  and  late  variety,  and  the  Wild  or  Acid-fruited, 
with  a  sharp  acid  flavor. 

The  Pomegranate  is  also  a  highly  ornamental  shrub, 
and  its  varieties  with  double  red  and  double  white  flow- 
ers are  especially  attractive  and  desirable. 
19 


434  SELECT   VARIETIES     OF    FRUITS. 

THE  PAWPAW  OR  CUSTARD  APPLE. 

The  Custard  Apple,  a  variety  of  which,  Aaimina  triloba, 
commonly  called  Pawpaw,  is  a  native  of  Kentucky,  South- 
ern Ohio,  etc.  It  is  a  small,  deciduous  tree,  easily  pro- 
pagated by  seeds  or  grafting. 

The  Custard  Apple  of  Peru  and  other  tropical  countries 
(Anona  cherimolia)  is  described  as  a  superior  fruit, 
and  highly  esteemed  for  the  dessert.  The  A.  palustris, 
A.  squamosa,  and  A.  miiricata  are  esteemed  West  India 
varieties. 

FOURTH    DIVISION. ALMONDS,    CHESTNUTS,    FILBERTS,     AND 

WALNUTS. 

SECTION  18. — ALMONDS. 

Sweet  Hard-shell* — This  is  a  hardy  and  productive  va- 
riety, succeeding  well  in  the  climate  of  Western  Ntiv 
York,  and  still  farther  North.  Nut  very  large,  with  a  hard 
shell  and  a  large,  sweet  kernel ;  ripe  here  about  the  first 
of  October.  The  tree  is  very  vigorous,  has  smooth  glau- 
cous leaves,  and  when  in  bloom  in  the  spring  is  more 
brilliant  and  showy  than  any  other  fruit  tree. 

Soft  Sweet-shell,  Ladies'  Thin-shell,  etc.— This  is  the 
almond  of  the  shops,  of  which  such  immense  quantities 
are  annually  imported  from  abroad.  It  and  all  its  sub- 
varieties,  as  far  as  we  know,  are  too  tender  for  our  North- 
ern climate,  unless  carefully  grown  on  a  wall  or  trellis,  and 
protected.  South  of  Virginia,  we  believe,  it  succeeds 
well ;  and  so  beautiful  a  tree,  and  so  estimable  a  fruit,  de- 
serve the  attention  of  all  fruit-growers.  Very  successfully 
grown  in  California. 

The  Bitter  Almond. — This  is  hardy  and  productive  ;  nut 


CHESTNUTS FILBERTS.  435 

similar  to  the  first-named  in  appearance,  but  bitter,  and 
only  useful  in  confectionery  or  medicine.  Its  chief  pro- 
duct is  the  prussic  acid  of  the  druggists. 

SECTION  19. — CHESTNUTS. 

The  American  or  Common  Chestnut  is  well  known  as 
one  of  our  most  beautiful  forest-trees.  It  is  seldom 
grown  as  a  fruit-tree,  although  the  fruit  is  highly  es- 
teemed. It  should  have  a  place  in  all  large  collections  of 
standard  fruit-trees.  It  reproduces  itself  from  seed. 

The  Dwarf  Chestnut,  or  Chinquapin,  is  a  small  tree 

eight  or  ten  feet  high,  and  very  prolific,  but  the  nuts  are 
small.  It  grows  spontaneously  in  Maryland,  Virginia,  and 
southward. 

The  Spanish  Chestnut  or  Marron. — This  is  the  large, 
sweet  nut,  as  large  as  a  horse  chesnut,  imported  from 
abroad.  There  arc  many  varieties  cultivated  in  France 
and  England,  but  that  designated  by  the  French  as 
"  Marron  de  Lyon?  is  the  best.  It  is  propagated  by 
grafting  on  the  common  sorts.  It  is  not  reproduced  truly 
from  seed,  but  its  seedlings  produce  large  and  fine  fruits. 
It  bears  and  ripens  well  as  far  north  as  Rochester.  It 
bears  the  second  year  from  the  graft  and  the  fourth  from 
seed. 

SECTION  20. — FILBERTS. 

1.  Cosford* — This  is  an  improved  variety  of  the  Eng- 
lish hazel-nut,  very  prolific,  nut  large,  oblong,  or   oval ; 
shell  thin,  and  kernel  fine-flavored. 

2.  Coburg. — Large   and   fine,   and   a   most  abundant 
bearer. 

3.  Dwarf  Prolific. — One  of  the  most  prolific  bearers, 


436  SELECT    VARIETIES    OP   FRUITS. 

nut  rather  small.  We  have  plants  two  feet  high  bearing 
well;  kernel  good. 

4.  Frizzled, — Remarkable  for  its  curious  frizzled  husk, 
a  good  bearer,  and  one  of  the  finest  flavored. 

5.  Red-Skinned. — One  of  the  old  standard  sorts  of  the 
English  growers,  distinguished  by  the  bright  red  or  crim- 
son skin  of  the  kernel ;  medium  size,  egg-shaped,   shell 
thick,  flavor  good. 

6.  White, — This  is  also  an  old  standard  sort ;  the  kernel 
is  a  yellowish  white.     Both  this  and  the  preceding  have 
long  husks. 

SECTION  21. — WALNUTS. 

The  English  or  Madeira  Nut  (Juglans  regia).— This 
is  a  native  of  Persia.  A  lofty,  spreading  tree,  with  pin- 
nated leaves  like  the  butternut,  and  the  fruit  nearly  as 
large.  Great  quantities  are  annually  imported,  and  sold 
in  the  fruit  shops. 

The  tree  is  tender  while  young,  the  ends  of  the 
young  shoots  being  injured  in  winter  at  the  north,  but  as 
it  grows  older  it  becomes  hardier.  It  is  produced  from 
seed  or  by  grafting.  There  are  many  varieties  of  it  culti- 
vated abroad,  few  of  which  have  yet  been  introduced 
here  on  account  of  the  little  attention  given  to  this  class 
of  fruits.  Is  now  being  extensively  planted  in  California, 
where  it  succeeds  well. 

The  Dwarf  Prolific  Walnut   (Juglans  pr&parturiens) 

is  a  French  variety,  most  desirable  for  the  garden.  It 
bears  at  the  age  of  three  years  from  the  seed,  and  often  at 
the  hight  of  two  to  three  feet. 

Our  native  sorts,  the  Black  Walnut  (Juglans  nigra)^ 
the  Butternut  (Juglans  cinerea),  the  Hickory-Nut 
(Gary a),  and  its  varieties,  are  all  well-known  trees  that 


GATHERING   FRUITS,    ETC.  437 

deserve  much  more  attention  than  they  receive,  consider- 
ing the  value  of  their  timber  as  well  as  fruit. 


CHAPTER  H. 

GATHERING,     PACKING,    TRANSPORTATION,    AND    PRESERVA- 
TION   OF    FRUITS. 

THIS  is  a  branch  of  the  general  subject  of  fruit  culture 
and  management  that  requires  the  most  careful  attention  ; 
for  it  is  quite  useless  to  take  pains  in  producing  fine  fruits, 
without  taking  equal  pains  in  gathering,  preserving,  and 
sending  them  to  the  table  or  the  market  in  a  sound, 
sightly,  and  proper  condition.  Very  few  fruit-growers 
seem  to  Appreciate  this  part  of  their  business.  Fruit- 
dealers  at  home  and  abroad  complain  of  the  careless  and 
slovenly  manner  in  which  our  fruits  are  gathered,  packed, 
and  presented  in  the  market,  and  would  gladly  pay  a  dou- 
ble price  for  them  in  a  better  condition.  The  first  con- 
sideration is : 

The  period  of  maturity  at  which  fruits  should  be 
gathered. — The  stone  fruits  generally  are  allowed  to  reach 
perfect  maturity,  or  within  four  or  five  days  of  it,  on  the 
tree. 

In  moist,  cool  seasons,  particularly,  they  are  benefited 
by  being  gathered  a  few  days  before  maturity,  and  allow- 
ed to  ripen  in  a  dry,  warm  room;  they  part  with  the 
water  contained  in  their  juices,  which  thus  become  better 
elaborated  and  more  sugary  and  high-flavored. 

Summer  Pears,  too,  on  the  same  principle,  require  to 
be  gathered,  as  a  general  thing,  from  a  week  to  a  fort- 


438  GATHERING   FRUITS,    ETC. 

night  before  their  maturity.  Sweet  varieties,  and  such  as 
are  inclined  to  become  mealy,  are  entirely  worthless  when 
ripened  on  the  tree,  and  many  very  excellent  varieties 
are  condemned  on  this  account.  Such  as  these  should  be 
gathered  the  moment  the  skin  begins  to  change  color  in 
the  least  degree. 

Summer  Apples,  too,  and  especially  those  inclined  to 
mealiness,  should  be  picked  early ;  as  soon  as  the  skin 
begins  to  change  color,  otherwise  they  part  with  their 
juices,  and  become  worthless.  Ripeness  is  indicated  by 
the  seeds  turning  dark-colored,  and  by  the  stem  parting 
readily  from  the  tree  when  it  is  lifted  upwards. 

Winter  Apples  and  Pears  should  be  allowed  to  remain 
on  the  trees  as  long  as  vegetation  is  active,  or  until  frosts 
are  apprehended. 

Grapes,  Berries,  etc.,  are  allowed  to  attain  perfect 
maturity  before  being  gathered. 

Chestnuts,  Filberts,  etc.,  are  not  gathered  until  they  be- 
gin to  fall  from  the  tree. 

Mode  of  Gathering. — Unless  it  be  a  few  specimens 
wanted  for  immediate  use,  which  may  be  taken  with  some 
of  the  contrivances  mentioned  under  the  head  of  imple- 
ments, all  fruits  should  be  gathered  by  the  hand.  The 
branch  to  be  gathered  from  should  be  taken  in  one  hand, 
and  the  fruits  carefully  taken  off,  one  by  one,  with  the  other, 
witlutheir  stems  attached.  (For  fruits  neither  keep  so  well, 
nor  look  so  well,  without  the  stems.)  They  are  then  laid 
carefully  in  single  layers  in  broad,  shallow  baskets,  the  bot- 
toms of  which  should  be  covered  with  paper  or  moss,  to 
prevent  bruises.  Peaches  and  other  soft  fruits  should  be 
pressed  as  lightly  as  possible,  for  anything  like  a  squeeze 
is  certainly  followed  by  decay  in  the  form  of  a  brown 
spot,  and  this  is  the  reason  why  it  is  so  exceedingly  diffi- 
cult to  find  a  perfectly  sound  and  at  the  same  time  ripe 
peach  in  our  markets. 


GATHERING     FRUITS,     ETC.  439 

When  more  than  one  layer  of  fruifc  is  laid  in  the  same 
basket,  some  soft  paper,  dry  moss,  hay,  or  other  material, 
ought  to  separate  them,  for  it  is  difficult  to  place  one  layer 
immediately  upon  another,  and  especially  if  the  fruits  are 
approaching  maturity,  without  bruising  them  more  or  less. 
Fruit  should  only  be  gathered  in  dry  weather,  and  in  the 
dry  time  of  the  day. 

Disposition  of  the  Fruits  after  gathering. — When  they 
are  thus  in  the  baskets,  if  summer  fruits,  they  are  either 
carried  into  the  fruit-room  and  arranged  on  shelves  or 
tables  in  thin  layers,  or  they  are  carefully  transferred,  one 
by  one,  into  market-baskets  and  carried  to  market  on  an 
easy  spring  wagon,  if  not  by  steamboat  or  railroad,  by 
which  jarring  or  jolting  will  be  avoided.  Treated  in  this 
manner,  they  will  be  in  a  marketable  condition,  and  one 
basket  will  sell  for  as  much  as  four,  carelessly  picked, 
thrown  into  baskets,  and  tumbled  out  of  them  into  a  barrel 
or  wagon-box. 

Ripe  fruits  may  be  kept  in  good  condition  for  a  consid- 
erable period  of  time,  in  an  ice-house,  or  in  some  of  the 
recently-invented  fruit-preservers,  and  even  in  very  cool, 
dry  cellars.  The  vessels  in  which  they  are  deposited 
should  be  perfectly  clean,  that  no  unpleasant  flavor  may 
be  imparted  to  them.  Peaches  have  been  sent  to  the  East 
Indies,  by  being  properly  packed  in  ice ;  and  it  may  be 
that  methods  of  packing  and  preserving  will,  before  long, 
be  discovered,  that  will  give  us  access  to  the  markets  of 
other  countries,  even  for  our  perishable  summer  fruits. 
We  have  seen  Seckel  pears  in  a  very  good  state  of  preser- 
vation in  January.  The  science  of  ripening  and  preserving 
fruits  is  but  in  its  infancy,  and  horticultural  societies 
that  have  the  means  will  be  doing  a  great  public  service 
by  offering  liberal  premiums  that  will  incite  to  experiment 
on  the  subject. 

Winter  Fruits  intended  for  long  keeping  are  transferred 


440  GATHERING    FRUITS,    ETC. 

by  hand  from  the  baskets  in  which  they  are  gathered  on 
the  tree,  into  larger  ones  in  which  they  can  be  carried  into 
a  dry,  cool  room,  where  they  are  laid  in  heaps,  which  may 
be  three  or  four  deep,  where"  they  may  remain  for  a  couple 
of  weeks,  during  which  time  they  will  have  parted  with 
considerable  moisture  and  be  quite  dry.  They  will  then 
be  fit  for  packing. 

Clean,  new  barrels  should  be  procured,  and  the  fruits 
should  be  carefully  assorted.  For  shipping  to  distant  or 
foreign  markets,  the .  best  only  should  be  selected  ;  all 
bruised,  wormy,  knotty  specimens  being  laid  aside  for 
home  consumption.  They  are  then  placed  in  the  barrels, 
by  hand,  arranged  regularly  in  layers,  so  that  no  spaces 
will  exist,  by  which  the  fruits  may  shift,  roll,  or  knock 
against  one  another.  The  barrels  are  then  tightly  headed 
up,  so  that  the  head  presses  firmly  on  the  fruits;  some 
people  recommend  placing  a  layer  of  clean  moss  or  soft 
paper,  both  on  the  bottom  and  top  of  the  barrel ;  but  this 
is  not  necessary  where  the  packing  and  heading  are  per- 
formed carefully.  After  packing,  the  barrels  must  be 
sent  to  market  in  such  a  manner  as  never  to  be  jolted  or 
rolled,  any  more  than  they  would  be  on  men's  shoulders, 
or  an  easy  spring  wagon  or  sled,  or  by  a  water  convey- 
ance. 

On  shipboard,  the  barrels  should  be  placed  in  the  coolest 
and  dryest  place.  It  is  perfectly  idle  to  gather,  pack,  or 
ship  fruits  in  any  other  way  than  this  to  foreign  markets. 
American  apples  are  frequently  sold  in  Liverpool  at  auction 
for  half  what  they  would  have  sold  for  in  New- York,  on 
account  of  their  bad  condition.  I  saw  this  in  1849,  when 
Newtown  pippins  were  selling  at  twelve  and  a  half  cents 
apiece  in  the  fruit-shops. 

Winter  fruits  for  home  consumption  should  be  care- 
fully assorted,  keeping  the  best,  the  poorest,  the  sound, 
the  bruised,  and  the  earlier  and  later  ripening  varieties 
all  separate  ;  when  sound  and  bruised,  early  and  late,  are 


PACKING,    MARKING,    SHIPPING,    ETC.  441 

all  thrown  together  promiscuously,  they  cannot  fail  to 
decay  speedily  and  to  lose  their  flavor ;  for  two  or  three 
decaying  apples  in  a  heap  or  barrel  will  taint  the  flavor 
of  all,  and  hasten  the  decay  of  those  around  them.  This 
arrangement  into  grades  and  classes  is,  therefore,  absolutely 
necessary  even  for  the  fruits  needed  for  family  use;  and 
when  they  are  so  arranged,  the  sound,  long-keepers  are  put 
into  clean,  new  barrels,  carefully,  by  hand,  and  the  barrels 
headed  up  tightly  and  placed  in  a  cool,  dry  cellar  or  fruit- 
room.  The  bruised  ones  can  be  laid  in  a  place  by  them- 
selves for  immediate  use.  Every  barrel,  when  packed, 
should  be  marked. 

Winter  Pears,  as  a  general  thing,  require  to  be  brought 
into  a  warm  temperature  one  or  two  weeks  before  they 
are  wanted  for  table  use.  All  the  baking  and  stewing, 
and  even  many  of  the  table  varieties,  may  be  treated  ex- 
actly like  appples. 

PACKING,    MARKING,    SHIPPING,    ETC. 

In  all  that  relates  to  the  labor  of  preparing  fruits  for 
market,  great  care  is  requisite,  and  we  cannot  do  bet- 
ter than  to  copy  the  following  very  concise  and  practical 
directions  prepared  by  a  large  and  experienced  shipping- 
house  from  long  observance  of  the  requisites  needed  for 
success : 

"  Packing. — In  packing  Apples,  Pears,  Berries,  etc.,  do 
not  face  your  fruit  more  than  it  will  bear,  for  if  a  buyer  is 
once  deceived  in  buying  a  mark  of  fruit,  he  will  discount 
the  mark  in  buying  again,  or  refuse  to  buy  it  at  all ;  while  if 
it  runs  uniform,  and  gives  satisfaction,  it  is  eagerly  sought 
after,  and  the  seller  can  get  increased  price  by  the  compe- 
tition. Also  bear  in  mind  that  good  fruit,  etc.,  well  put 
up  and  reaching  here  in  good  order,  always  sells,  even 
when  the  market  is  glutted  ;  while  fruit,  etc.,  poorly  put 


442  PACKING,    MARKING,     SHIPPING,     ETC. 

np,  can  sometimes  be  scarcely  given  away,  thereby  caus- 
ing dissatisfaction  to  the  shipper  on  account  of  poor  re- 
turns, and  disgust  to  the  receiver,  because  they  have  had 
to  sacrifice  it,  when  a  little  pains  taken  with  the  article 
would  have  caused  a  different  result.  Nothing  is  gained 
in  packing  fruit,  etc.  (which  is  sold  by  the  package),  in 
short  packages,  that  is  for  barrels  to  be  less  than  flour-bar- 
rel size,  or  baskets  to  hold  twelve  or  fourteen  quarts, 
when  they  should  hold  half  a  bushel,  or  in  boxes  less  than 
measure  intended.  If  fruit  is  too  ripe  or  soft  to  pack  in 
full-size  packages,  pack  in  those  of  half  or  even  quarter- 
size,  but  by  all  means  give  full  measure,  and  try  to  pack 
your  packages  so  tight  that,  upon  arrival,  they  will  open 
full  and  not  look  as  though  there  was  not  enough  of  the 
article  to  fill  them.  Besides  fruit,  etc.,  will  come  a  longer 
distance  and  arrive  in  far  better  order,  by  being  packed 
full,  even  to  slight  jamming,  than  if  packed  loose.  With 
the  rough  and  severe  handling,  that  all  packages  get  more 
or  less,  the  articles  are  very  likely  to  be  badly  bruised  in 
coming.  All  packages  should  be  neat  and  clean ;  and  bar- 
rels, boxes,  and  crates  sold  with  the  articles  should,  if  pos- 
sible, be  new,  as  the  package  helps  show  the  contents  to 
better  advantage,  and  will  sell  the  better  from  the  evident 
pains  bestowed  upon  it. 

"Marking. — Always  mark  each  package  plainly  and 
neat,  with  the  name  or  initials  of  consignor,  and  the  net 
weight  or  count  of  contents  of  each. 

"Shipping. — All  perishable  fruits,  such  as  peaches,  plums, 
berries,  etc.,  should  be  sent  by  the  quickest  conveyance. 
Receipts  should  be  taken  from  transportation  compa- 
nies. Advices,  with  a  full  and  correct  invoice,  should  be 
sent  by  mail.  A  duplicate  invoice  should  be  put  in  one 
of  the  packages,  marked  Bill.  There  is  nothing  so  vexa- 
tious to  a  commission  house,  as  the  receipt  of  consign- 
ments not  properly  or  distinctly  marked,  and  no  advices  of 
the  same. 


PACKING,    MARKING,    SHIPPING,    ETC.  443 

"  Handling. — All  fruit,  of  whatever  kind,  should  be  han- 
dled with  the  greatest  care,  so  as  not  to  bruise  it,  even 
slightly,  as  oftentimes  where  a  little  bruise  does  not  show 
when  fruit  is  packed,  in  ten  or  twelve  hours  afterwards 
the  article  is  half,  if  not  totally  destroyed,  causing  the 
fruit  in  contact  with  it  to  also  decay,  and  injuring  the  sale 
of  the  same,  as  buyers  will  discount  imperfect  or  decayed 
fruit.  Great  care  should  also  be  taken  in  handling  the 
packages  after  fruit  is  packed,  as  a  blow  or  fall  will  pene- 
trate through  the  entire  package,  bruising  the  contents 
oftentimes  badly. 

"Apples. — Assort  those  uniform  in  size  and  quality,  pack 
in  clean  barrels;  take  out  one  head,  commence  packing  by 
placing  a  tier  of  apples  with  their  ends  to  the  closed  head 
of  the  barrel,  then  fill  up  without  bruising  the  fruit,  shake 
down  thoroughly,  and  fill  the  barrel  so  full  that  the  head 
must  be  pressed  in  with  a  lever,  flattening  the  last  tier  of 
apples,  and  even  starting  the  juice.  Nail  the  head  and 
hoops  with  four-penny  nails,  turn  the  barrel  over,  and  on 
the  head  not  opened  mark  plainly  the  variety  in  each  bar- 
rel. Apples  packed  in  this  way  show  a  fine,  handsome 
face  when  opened. 

"  Pears. — This  delicate  fruit  must  be  packed  and  shipped 
when  it  is  fully  matured  and  before  it  has  ripened,  so  as  to 
insure  arrival  in  good  order.  Pears  are  not  as  elastic  as 
apples.  Line  the  sides,  top,  and  bottom  of  the  barrel  or 
package  with  straw-paper,  to  prevent  the  fruit  being 
stained  by  the  wood  of  the  barrel  or  package.  Assort  and 
pack  same  as  apples,  except  placing  the  blossom-end  of 
the  fruit  upon  the  end  not  opened.  When  the  barrel  is 
full,  press  the  head  in  firmly  without  starting  the  juice. 
Summer  Pears,  if  over  two  days  on  the  way,  should  be 
ventilated,  otherwise  the  package  should  be  tight,  as  the 
fruit  will  ripen  more  uniformly  and  hold  its  color 
better." 

Packing  Pears  for  Distant  Markets. — The  French  send 


444  PACKING,     MARKING,     SHIPPING,     ETC. 

away  more  pears  to  foreign  markets  than  any  other  peo- 
ple. Some  small  importations  of  their  winter  sorts  have 
actually  been  made  by  some  of  the  New  York  fruit- 
dealers.  They  pack  them  in  small  boxes,  either  round 
or  square,  such  as  a  man  can  lift  and  carry  easily  in  his 
hands. 

They  cover  the  bottom  and  sides  with  very  dry  moss 
or  soft,  dry  paper,  well  calculated  to  absorb  moisture. 
They  then  wrap  each  fruit  in  the  dry,  soft  paper,  and  lay 
them  in  layers,  the  largest  and  least  mature  in  the  bottom, 
and  fill  all  the  interstices  with  dry  moss  or  paper.  I  have 
seen  these  boxes  opened  in  London,  in  the  finest  con- 
dition, after  being  packed  a  month.  They  are  so  tightly 
packed  that  the  slightest  movement  cannot  take  place 
among  them,  and  yet  no  one  presses  upon  another.  The 
dry  moss  and  paper  that  separate  them,  absorb  any  mois- 
ture ;  and  if  one  decays,  it  does  not  affect  others. 

Some  of  the  Paris  confectioners  and  restaurant-keepers 
preserve  fruits  very  successfully  in  barrels,  packed  in  lay- 
ers, and  the  interstices  filled  up  with  powdered  charcoal. 
The  barrels  are  kept  in  a  dry,  cool  place,  about  forty 
degrees,  where  they  are  not  subjected  to  changes  of  tem- 
perature. Apples,  pears,  grapes,  almonds,  nuts,  and  pota- 
toes, are  all  preserved  in  this  manner. 

"Peaches. — Pack  in  stave  baskets  holding  half  of  a 
bushel ;  they  are  firmer  than  splint  baskets,  and  protect 
the  fruit  better.  Sort  uniform  as  to  size  and  quality.  Fill 
your  baskets  rounding  full.  Tie  a  cover  over  the  top  of 
the  basket,  so  that  the  fruit  will  not  be  liable  to  shake.  Or 
they  can  be  packed  in  slat  crates  holding  a  bushel,  with  a 
partition  across  the  crate  at  an  equal  distance  from  each  end. 

"  Quinces. — Sort  to  run  uniform,  pack  in  barrel  same  as 
apples,  except  that  the  blossom  end  of  the  fruit  should  be 
placed  to  the  end  not  opened.  When  the  barrel  is  full, 
press  in  head  harder  than  for  pears,  but  not  as  tight  as 
apples. 


'PACKING,  MARKING,  SHIPPING,  ETC.  445 

"  Strawberries. — All  large  berries  should  be  packed  in 
quart  boxes  or  baskets,  twenty-four  or  thirty  to  the  crate. 
In  filling  the  boxes,  put  in  berries  of  uniform  size,  reject- 
ing all  soft  ones ;  face  the  box  with  nice  fruit,  and  fill  it 
rounding  full,  so  that  when  packed  in  crates  the  upper  box 
will  slightly  press  the  fruit  in  the  lower  box.  The  small 
varieties  of  strawberries  can  be  packed  in  a  little  larger 
crate,  or  packed  in  half-bushel  drawers,  four  drawers  to  a 
stand. 

"  Raspberries  should  be  packed  in  a  quart  box  or 
basket.  The  fruit  should  be  carefully  picked,  boxes  well 
filled,  and  packed  in  crates  of  twenty-four  and  thirty 
quarts. 

"  Currants  can  be  packed  in  half-bushel  or  bushel 
drawers,  and  equally  as  well  in  baskets ;  and  when  filled 
should  be  well  rounded. 

"  Cherries. — Same  as  currants  ;  but  think  a  clean  half- 
bushel  basket  preferable,  with  a  paper  or  cloth  cover. 
They  should  be  well  packed. 

"  Blackberries. — Pack  in  boxes  holding  a  quart  or  pint 
— twenty-four  or  thirty-six  quarts  to  a  crate.  Fill  and  sort 
the  same  as  strawberries.  When  the  crate  is  full,  place  a 
sheet  of  straw-paper  over  the  upper  row  of  boxes,  so  that 
it  will  exclude  the  air  and  help  retain  the  color  of  the  fruit. 

"  Plums. — The  fancy  kinds  should  be  packed  in  small 
boxes  or  fancy  baskets ;  while  the  common  kinds  can  be 
packed  in  half-bushel  or  bushel  boxes  or  baskets,  the  same 
as  peaches."  They  sell  best  in  small  packages. 

(trapes,  when  fully  ripe,  should  be  taken,  a  single 
cluster  at  a  time,  and  all  imperfect  berries  cut  from  the 
bunch.  They  can  be  packed  in  three,  five,  six,  ten,  or  twelve- 
pound  boxes ;  or  if  going  but  a  short  distance,  in  clean 
baskets  of  ten  to  twenty  pounds,  and  covered  with  a 
cloth.  In  packing,  take  off  the  cover  of  the  box,  line  the 
inside  with  thin  white  paper,  commence  filling  with  whole 
bunches,  pack  close-as  possible  without  jamming,  fill  up 


446  PACKING,     MARKING,     SHIPPING,    ETC. 

with  bunches,  parts  of  bunches,  then  single  grapes, 
but  with  a  stem,  so  that  all  space  is  occupied,  and  the 
fruit  projects  from  the  top,  from  a  quarter  to  half 
an  inch.  Turn  over  the  paper  used  in  lining,  nail  the 
cover-points  down,  reverse  the  box,  and  paste  a  label,  stat- 
ing the  variety  of  the  grape,  on  the  cover  that  was  not 
opened. 

Fruit-Rooms. — A  fruit-room  is  a  structure  set  apart 
exclusively  for  the  preservation  of  fruit.  Its  great  requi- 
sites are,  perfect  security  from  moisture  or  dampness,  ex- 
clusion from  light,  and  a  uniform  temperature.  If  these 
points  are  obtained,  no  matter  where,  how,  or  of  what 
material  the  fruit-room  be  constructed.  It  may  be  built 
of  stone,  brick,  clay,  or  wood,  above  or  below  ground,  as 
circumstances  or  taste  may  dictate. 

A  good,  dry,  and  cool  cellar  is  as  good  a  place  for 
keeping  fruit  as  can  be  provided ;  but  the  great  objection 
to  cellars  used  for  other  purposes  is,  that  currents  of  air 
are  frequently  admitted,  and  too  much  light,  by  which  the 
temperature  is  changed,  decay  promoted,  or  the  fruits  dried 
and  shriveled.  There  are,  also,  other  objects  that  un- 
avoidably saturate  the  air  more  or  less  with  moisture. 

Where  a  fruit-room  is  built  on  the  surface  of  the  ground, 
it  should  be  on  the  ice-house  principle  of  double  walls  and 
doors,  to  prevent  access  of  either  heat  or  cold  from  with- 
out. A  good  cellar  or  cave,  built  in  a  dry,  sandy,  or 
gravelly  bank,  or  side-hill,  will  answer  every  purpose. 
The  walls  may  be  of  stone,  brick,  or  timber  ;  the  roof  should 
be  thick,  with  a  slope  sufficient  to  throw  off  water  freely, 
and  the  earth  about  should  also  be  so  graded,  that  water 
will  flow  away  as  fast  as  it  falls.  Provision  may  be  made 
for  lighting  and  ventilating  in  the  roof,  and  the  door  or 
doors  should  be  double. 

The  interior  should  be  fitted  up  with  shelves  and  bins, 
with  places  for  barrels  or  other  articles,  in  which  fruits 
are  packed. 


PACKING,    MARKING,    SHIPPING,    ETC.  447 

A  cheap  and  effective  fruit-house  has  long  been  a  desid- 
eratum, and  many  patents  have  been  obtained.  The  ma- 
jority of  them,  however,  have  proved  failures,  and  often- 
times expensive  ones.  The  best  house  we  have  seen  is 
that  of  Rees  &  Houghton,  Philadelphia,  Pa.,  from  whose 
circular  we  extract  the  following  : 

"When  the  purity  of  the  atmosphere  is  obtained  by 
excessive  ventilation,  not  only  is  the  temperature  of  the 
apartment  increased,  but  the  ice  is  melted  with  great 
rapidity.  To  dry  the  atmosphere  by  the  use  of  absorb- 
ents is  also  a  very  expensive  and  troublesome  process. 

"  In  a  room  cooled  to  38°  Fahrenheit,  and  kept  perfect- 
ly dry,  the  decomposition  of  fruit  is  very  slow.  Fruit 
may  be  kept  sound  and  good  for  three  or  four  months,  or 
longer.  The  cooler  the  house,  the  drier  it  will  naturally 
become,  but  when  the  natural  tendency  is  aided  by  philo- 
sophical construction,  it  will  be  perceived  that  the  object 
may  be  more  easily  accomplished. 

"  Decomposing  organic  matter  will  of  course  throw  off, 
and,  in  fact,  generate  moisture  ;  but  when  the  process  -of 
decomposition  is  reduced  to  the  lowest  point,  or  suspended 
altogether,  then  less  moisture  will  be  present. 

"  The  foul  gases,  or  odors,  emanating  from  decaying 
vegetables  being  volatile,  are  easily  removed ;  but  the 
removal  of  moisture,  or  aqueous  vapor,  is  more  difficult. 

"  The  last  difficulty — the  removal  of  moisture, without  the 
use  of  artificial  absorbents — has  been  overcome  by  this  in- 
vention, in  the  most  perfect  manner,  without  any  ex- 
pensive machinery,  or  any  daily  cost  in  working  the  house. 

"  The  apparatus  can  be  applied  to  large  or  small  rooms, 
or  even  closets  and  refrigerators,  with  equal  ease  and  suc- 
cess ;  and  from  the  very  nature  of  things,  being  based 
upon  the  strictest  natural  laws,  is  the  only  plan  that  can 
produce  the  desired  results,  without  the  use  of  absorbents 
or  driers. 

"  Fruit,  in  a  state  of  moist  decay,  on  being  put  into  the 


448  PACKING,     XAKKIXG,     SHIPPING,     ETC. 

fruit-room,  directly  becomes  dried  to  such  a  degree  that 
all  the  moisture  on  the  decaying  spots  disappears,  and  the 
spots  themselves  become  covered  with  a  dried  pellicle- 
like  court-plaster,  and  the  rot  ceases.  The  drying  process, 
however,  is  not  such  as  to  produce  shriveling  in  apples  or 
pears,  for  the  reason  that  only  the  external  moisture  is 
removed,  and  the  interior  flesh  of  the  fruit  remains  un- 
changed. 

"  In  this  connection  may  be  demonstrated  the  fallacy  of 
the  common  idea  that  fruit  just  gathered  from  the  tree 
must  undergo  a  process  of  sweating  before  it  is  fit  to  be  put 
into  the  cellar  or  fruit-room.  The  simple  truth  is,  that  fruit 
which  has  been  cooled  by  any  means  will  always  sweat 
when  it  is  brought  into  a  warm  atmosphere,  not  because 
the  juice  passes  out  of  it,  but  because  the  moisture  in  hot 
air  always  condenses  on  a  cold  surface.  On  the  contrary, 
fruit  taken  from  the  tree,  on  a  warm  day,  and  put  imme- 
diately into  a  cold  fruit-room,  never  sweats.  The  process 
of  sweating  in  apples  and  pears  may  be  repeated  a  hun- 
dred times  by  cooling  the  fruit  in  a  cellar,  and  then  bring- 
ing them  suddenly  into  a  hot  room.  A  cold  apple  will 
always  sweat  in  hot  air. 

''The  ordinary  working  temperature  obtained  by  means 
of  ice,  is  about  38°  to  40°  Fahrenheit.  But  by  the  use  of 
suitable  apparatus,  with  salt  and  crushed  ice,  as  in  the  ice- 
cream freezer,  a  room  may  be  cooled  below  the  freezing 
point." 

Attention  to  Fruits  in  the  Cellar  or  Fruit-room* — The 
decay  of  fruits  is  caused  either  by  bruises  or  by  a  fungus, 
or  species  of  mildew,  that  increases  rapidly  and  attacks 
all  the  sound  fruits  within  its  reach.  It  is,  therefore, 
necessary  to  examine  fruits  frequently,  and  remove  all 
that  show  any  symptoms  of  decay,  before  they  have 
either  affected  others  or  tainted  the  atmosphere  of  the 
room. 


DISEASES.  449 

0 

CHAPTER    III. 

DISEASES    AND    INSECTS. 
SECTION  1. — DISEASES. 

The  Fire -Slight  of  the  Pear,  Apple,  and  Quince. — 
This  is  one  of  the  most  formidable  diseases  to  which  fruit- 
trees  are  liable.  Whether  it  is  caused  by  the  sun,  the 
atmosphere,  or  an  insect,  remains  in  doubt,  some  cases 
favoring  one  opinion,  some  another.  It  attacks  the  trees 
at  different  periods  of  the  growing  season,  from  June  to 
September,  and  generally  in  the  young  parts  first ;  the 
leaves  flag,  the  sap  Incomes  thick  and  brown,  oozing  out 
in-  globules  through  the  bark,  and  emitting  a  very  dis- 
agreeable odor,  and  the  diseased  branch  or  part  turns 
black,  as  if  it  were  burned  by  fire.  When  the  pear-tree 
is  attacked  it  is  difficult  to  save  it,  the  disease  spreads  so 
rapidly.  In  the  apple  and  quince  it  is  less  fatal,  rarely 
killing  more  than  a  portion  of  the  tree  even  if  left  to  its 
own  course.  The  only  remedy  is,  to  cut  away  instantly 
the  blighted  parts,  into  the  sound  wood,  where  there  is 
not  the  slightest  trace  of  the  disease,  and  burn  them  up 
immediately. 

It  is  thought  by  some  that  young  trees  growing  very 
rapidly  are  more  subject  to  it  than  older  trees  growing 
slowly  ;  and  that  warm  sunshine,  with  a  sultry  atmosphere 
after  rain,  is  apt  to  be  followed  by  much  blight.  We  have 
always  regarded  the  cases  favoring  such  an  opinion  as 
accidental. 

Twig  Slight. — This  attacks  the  young  shoots  of  the 
current  season's  growth  on  apple,  pear,  quince,  mountain 
ash,  etc.,  causing  them  to  suddenly  wither  and  become 


450  DISEASES  AND  INSECTS. 

brown  at  early  or  mid  summer.  The  cause  is  unknown 
and  the  injury  is  not  materially  great.  The  remedy  is  in 
cutting  away  at  the  first  appearance.  In  this  season,  1871, 
it  is  more  abundant  than  ever  before. 

Apple  Blight. — This  is  a  disease  of  serious  character, 
inasmuch  as  it  invades  and  destroys  many  orchards.  Like 
the  dreaded  fire-blight  of  the  pear,  there  seems  no  pre- 
ventive. It  attacks  a  whole  branch  or  limb,  and  some- 
times one  quarter  to  one  half  of  the  top  is  destroyed,  ere 
to  the  common  observer  it  is  apparent.  No  remedy  is 
known  except  to  cut  away  and  destroy  the  memento  of 
one's  losses. 

.  Sitter  Jtot. — This  disease,  by  some  attributed  to  want 
of  appropriate  nourishment  to  the  tree,  and  by  others  to  a 
fungous  growth,  is  as  yet  but  little  understood.  High 
culture,  the  application  of  lime  to  the  soil,  etc.,  are 
recommended  as  remedies. 

JRust,  or  Fungus,  Mildew,  and  Cracking.— This  disease  is 
more  general  in  the  pear  than  the  apple,  and  it  is  more 
apparent  and  destructive  on  some  varieties  than  upon 
others ;  yet  these  varieties  have  not  been  so  closely  ob- 
served and  noted  as  to  make  it  safe  to  enumerate  them. 
Suffice  it  that  varieties  longest  in  cultivation,  most  pro- 
ductive, and  in  confined  situations,  arc  most  liable  to  it. 
It  appears  to  be  a  fungous  growth,  presenting,  when 
viewed  by  the  microscope,  a  mossy,  spongy  character, 
occupying  the  skin,  so  as  to  prevent  the  development  of 
its  tissues,  and  results  in  checking  the  growth  at  that  point, 
thus  creating  a  deformity.  When  the  malady  spreads, 
as  it  sometimes  does,  over  a  half  or  more  of  the  fruit,  it 
tends  to  a  deeper  nature,  and  causes  the  fruit  to  crack 
open,  and  become  corky  and  worthless.  During  a  week 
in  the  early  part  of  June,  this  year  (1871),  this  disease 
appeared  among  pears  in  some  localities  to  an  alarming 
extent,  but  soon  ceased  to  spread. 


DISEASES.  451 

Pear-leaf  Blight. — This  disease  has  already  been  al- 
luded to  in  treating  of  pear  seedlings.  It  is  a  sort  of 
rust  that  appears  on  the  leaves  in  July  or  August,  first  as 
small  brown  spots ;  these  spread  rapidly  over  the  leaves 
until  they  arc  completely  dried  up  and  growth  stopped. 
It  appears  in  a  certain  spot  as  a  center,  from  which  it 
spreads.  Whether  it  be  an  insect,  a  fungus,  or  some  at- 
mospherical cause  that  produces  this  blight,  is  unknown. 
Certain  cases  favor  one  or  other  of  these  opinions.  More 
minute  investigations  are  wanted  on  the  subject. 
*  To  avoid  its  evil  effects  as  far  as  possible,  the  great 
point  is,  to  get  a  rapid,  vigorous  growth,  before  mid-sum- 
mer, when  it  usually  appears.  Seedlings  grown  in  new 
soils  do  not  appear  to  be  so  much  affected  as  in  old. 
Where  stocks  are  affected  very  early  in  the  season,  they 
become  almost  worthless,  on  account  of  the ,  feebleness 
produced  in  both  stem  and  roots  by  such  an  untimely  and 
unnatural  check.  Some  special  applications,  such  as  coal 
cinders,  iron  filings,  copperas,  etc.,  have  been  suggested, 
but  no  evidence  has  yet  been  produced  of  their  efficacy. 

The  Gum  in  Stone  Fruits. — The  cherry,  plum,  apricot, 
and  peach  are  all  more  or  less  subject  to  this  malady. 
The  cherry  is  particularly  liable  to  it  in  the  West.  It  is 
produced  by  different  causes,  such  as  a  wet  soil,  severe 
pruning,  pruning  at  an  improper  time,  violent  changes  of 
temperature,  etc.  The  gumming  of  the  Cherry  in  the 
West  is  considered  by  some  to  be  owing  in  a  great  mea- 
sure to  the  bark  not  yielding  naturally  to  the  growth  of 
the  wood,  and  hence  they  practise  longitudinal  incisions 
on  it.  The  dhcrry-tree  has  a  very  powerful  bark,  and  in 
some  cases  it  may  not  yield  naturally  to  the  expansion  or 
growth  of  the  wood.  We  have  seen  about  a  foot  of  the 
trunk  of  a  cherry-tree  several  inches  smaller  than  the 
parts  both  above  and  below  it.  The  bark  was  as  smooth 
as  glass  on  it,  the  first  rind  being  unbroken,  whilst  on  the 
large  parts  this  was  quite  rough.  This  was  a  case  arising 


452  DISEASES    AXI>   INSECTS. 

from  the   obstinacy   of    the  bark,   and    could   only   be 
remedied  by  longitudinal  incisions  on  the  small  part. 

It  is  most  probable  that  the  extent  and  severity  of  this 
disease  in  the  West  is  owing  to  violent  changes  from  a 
hard  frost  to  a  bright  sun  and  rapid  thaw,  by  which  the 
sap  becomes  deranged,  and  accumulates  in  masses.  Trees 
that  are  branched  near  the  ground  will  be  less  likely  to 
suffer  than  those  with  tall,  bare  trunks.  Where  it  has 
made  some  progress  in  any  tree,  pare  off  the  diseased 
bark,  clean  off  all  the  gum,  and  let  the  surface  dry  up ; 
then  apply  a  plaster  of  grafting  composition,  or  a  solution 
of  gum  shellac  in  alcohol,  put  on  with  a  brush. 

When  the  stone  fruits  arc  pruned  severely  in  the  spring, 
the  sap  does  not  find  sufficient  vent ;  it  accumulates  in 
masses  and  bursts  the  bark.  This  fact  should  always  be 
kept  in  view  in  pruning,  and  a  sufficient  supply  of  active 
buds  be  left  to  absorb  the  sap. 

The  Yellows  in  the  Peach. — This  is  supposed  to  arise 
from  negligent  cultivation.  It  exhibits  itself  in  a  yellow, 
sickly  foliage,  feeble  shoots,  and  small  fruits  prematurely 
ripened.  It  is  said  to  be  contagious.  Trees  exhibiting 
these  symptoms  should  instantly  be  destroyed.  To  avoid 
it,  propagate  only  from  trees  in  perfect  health  and  vigor. 

Mildew  on  the  Peach. — The  young  shoots,  leaves,  and 
even  the  fruit  of  certain  varieties,  and  especially  the  gland- 
less  ones,  such  as  Early  Anne,  Early  Tillotson,  etc.,  are 
attacked  by  this.  The  only  remedies  are,  to  give  the 
trees  a  dry,  good  soil,  that  will  keep  them  in  a  vigorous 
condition,  and  to  syringe  freely  twice  a  day  when  it 
begins  to  appear.  The  gooseberry  suffers  seriously  from 
the  mildew,  owing  mainly  to  the  heat  of  our  summers.  In 
Northern  New  York,  in  Maine,  Vermont,  and  Lower 
Canada,  the  finest  large  English  varieties  are  brought  to 
greater  perfection  than  in  warmer  districts,  and  with  good 
culture  almost  come  up  to  the  English  standard.  In  a 
cold,  damp-bottomed  soil  at  Toronto^  almost  on  a  level 


DISEASES.  453 

with  Lake  Ontario,  fine  crops  are  produced  with  compara- 
tively little  difficulty  from  mildew  or  rust.  This  would 
indicate  as  a  remedy,  a  cool  soil  and  situation,  and  mulch- 
ing the  roots  to  keep  them  cool.  The  plants  should  be 
renewed  every  three  or  four  years,  and  they  should  be  kept 
vigorous  by  liberal  manuring  and  good  culture. 

JKot  and  Mildew  of  the  Grape. — Both  the  rot  and  mil- 
dew on  the  grape  have  been  attributed  to  various  causes, 
none  of  which  seems  to  prove  reliable.  Both  diseases 
seem  to  come  and  go  with  seasons,  now  here  and  there 
excessive  upon  one  variety  one  season,  and  another  the 
next,  evidently  to  us  bearing  the  impress  that  it  is 
miasmatic  or  sporadic,  and  developed  according  to  the 
atmosphere  and  Condition  of  the  vine  as  regards  health 
and  vigor.  The  preventive  seems  to  be  in  the  free  ,use 
of  sulphur,  by  dusting  the  vines  and  keeping  the  influence 
of  the  sulphur  thereon,  from  the  time  the  seed  is 
formed  until  the  coloring  is  at  least  half-completed. 

The  Plum-tree  Wart  or  Black-Knot. — The  cause  of  this 
disease  is  still  a  matter  of  doubt  and  uncertainty.  Some 
hold  to  the  opinion  that  it  is  a  gall  produced  by  an  insect, 
others  that  it  is  of  fungous  origin.  The  latter  opinion  is 
entitled  to  the  greatest  weight.  We  do  not  believe  that 
insects  have  any  agency  whatever  in  producing  this  dis. 
case.  Cions  should  never  be  taken  from  a  diseased  tree. 

Cutting  out  the  diseased  branch  clean  to  the  sound 
wood,  the  moment  the  knots  begin  to  appear,  is  an 
effectual  remedy,  and  they  should  all  be  burnt  up.  We 
have  saved  trees  six  inches  in  diameter,  that  were  af- 
fected on  the  trunk  so  seriously,  that  one  third  of  its 
thickness  had  to  be  removed  to  get  below  the  disease. 
After  it  was  cut  out,  we  applied  a  plaster  of  grafting 
composition,  covered  it  with  a  cloth,  and  in  two  years 
it  was  all  healed  over  and  sound. 

Plum-trees  arc  so  neglected  in  the  country,  that  mul- 
titudes of  them  arc  now  standing  literally  loaded  with 


454  DISEASES  AND  INSECTS. 

these  warts — not  even  an  inch  of  any  branch  free  from 
them,  the  most  disgusting  objects  in  the  way  of  fruit 
trees  that  can  possibly  be  imagined. 

The  Curl  of  the  Leaf  in  the  Peach.— This  disease  causes 
the  leaves  to  assume  a  reddish  color,  to  become  thick, 
curled,  and  deformed,  and  finally  to  perish.  It  is  supposed 
by  many  to  be  caused  by  insects ;  but  it  is  really  induced 
by  a  sudden  change  of  weather.  In  proof  of  this  we  may 
adduce  the  fact  that  peach-trees  under  glass  are  never 
affected  with  this  disease;  and  the  more  sheltered  the 
position  is,  the  less  is  the  injury. 

A  number  of  warm  days,  that  cause  the  expansion  of 
the  young  leaves,  followed  by  a  cold  rainy  day,  is  almost 
sure  to  produce  it  to  some  extent;  and  the  more  severe 
and  protracted  the  cold,  the  more,  extensive  and  fatal  it  is. 
The  peach-trees  in  Western  New  York  suffered  more  from 
this  in  1849-50  than  in  the  ten  years  previous,  owing  to  a 
protracted  cold  time  in  each  season  after  the  young  tender 
leaves  had  expanded.  In  both  these  seasons  the  check  was 
so  severe,  as  not  only  to  produce  this  disease  in  its  worst 
form,  but  the  gum  also  ;  for  the  sap  not  being  absorbed 
by  the  leaves,  became  stagnant,  sour,  and  corroded,  and 
burst  the  bark.  Trees  in  sheltered  gardens  suffer  less  than 
those  in  exposed  orchards.  There  is  no  possible  way  of 
guarding  against  this  ;  and  the  only  remedy  known  to  us 
is,  to  pick  off  the  diseased  leaves  the  moment  the  weather 
changes,  that  new  healthy  ones  may  be  produced. 

SECTION  2. — THE   PRINCIPAL   INSECTS  INJURIOUS  TO 
FRUIT   TREES. 

Aphis  or  Plant-Louse. — There  arc  several  kinds  of 
these.  The  two  most  troublesome  to  fruit  trees  are  the 
green  and  black,  small  soft  insects  that  appear  suddenly 
in  immense  quantities  on  the  young  shoots  of  the  trees, 
suck  their  juices,  and  consequently  arrest  their  growth. 


INSECTS.  455 

The  apple,  pear,  and  cherry  are  especially  infested  with 
them.  They  multiply  with  wonderful  rapidity.  It  is  said 
that  one  individual  in  five  generations  might  bo  the  pro- 
genitor of  six  thousand  millions.  Were  it  not  that  they 
are  easily  destroyed,  they  would  present  an  obstacle  almost 
insuperable  in  the  propagation  and  culture  of  trees. 

There  are  many  ways  of  accomplishing  their  destruc- 
tion. Our  plan  is  to  prepare  a  barrel  of  tobacco  juice, 
by  steeping  stems  for  several  days  until  the  juice  is  a 
dark  brown,  like  strong  beer ;  we  then  mix  this  with  a 
solution  of  soft-soap,  or  soapsuds.  A  pail  is  filled  with 
this,  and  the  ends  of  the  shoots  where  the  insects  are 
assembled  are  brought  down  and  dipped  into  the  liquid. 
One  dip  is  enough.  Such  parts  as  cannot  be  dipped  are 
sprinkled  liberally.  It  is  applied  to  the  heads  of  large 
trees  by  means  of  a  hand  or  garden  syringe.  It  should 
be  done  in  the  evening.  The  liquid  may  be  so  strong  as 
to  injure  the  foliage,  hence  it  will  be  well  for  persons 
using  it  the  first  time  to  test  it  on  one  or  two  subjects 
before  applying  it  extensively.  This  application  must  be 
repeated  as  often  as  any  of  the  aphides  make  their  appear- 
ance. The  dry  weather  of  mid-summer  is  generally  the 
time  most  favorable  for  their  appearance.  The  season  of 
1871  has  been  remarkable  for  the  prevalence  of  this  pest 
all  over  the  country,  not  merely  on  fruit  but  on  forest 
trees.  It  has  been  so  in  Europe  also. 

The  Woolly  Aphis  or  American  Blight. — This  is  a 
small  insect,  covered  with  a  white  woolly  substance  that 
conceals  its  body.  They  infest  the  apple-tree  in  particu- 
lar, both  roots  and  branches,  living  upon  the  sap  of  the 
bark,  and  producing  small  warts  or  granulations  on  it  by 
the  punctures.  They  are  more  particularly  troublesome 
on  old  rough-barked  trees,  as  they  lodge  in  the  crevices, 
and  are  difficult  to  reach.  The  wind  carries  them  from 
one  place  to  another  by  the  light  down  in  which  they  arc 
enveloped,  and  thus  they  spread  quickly  from  one  end  of 


456  DISEASES    AND    INSECTS. 

a  plantation  to  the  other.  Not  a  moment  should  bo  lost 
in  destroying  the  first  one  that  makes  its  appearance. 
Where  the  bark  is  rough  it  should  be  scraped  smooth  ;  if 
the  roots  be  affected  the  earth  should  be  removed,  and 
every  part  washed,  and  every  crevice  filled  with  the  fol- 
lowing preparation,  recommended  in  Harris's  Treatise : 
"  Two  parts  of  soft-soap  and  eight  of  water,  mixed  with 
lime  enough  to  bring  it  to  the  consistency  of  thick  white- 
wash, to  be  put  on  with  a  brush."  A  solution  of  two 
pounds  of  potash  in  seven  quarts  of  water  will  answer 
as  well.  Fresh  earth  should  be  put  upon  the  roots. 

The  Scaly  Aphis  or  Bark  -  Louse. — This  is  a  dark- 
brown  scale  insect,  that  infests  the  bark  of  the  apple-tree. 
They  are  of  a  dark  brown  color,  just  like  the  bark,  and 
are  not  easily  seen  unless  looked  for.  They  attach  them- 
selves closely  to  the  bark,  and  sometimes  are  so  numerous 
as  to  form  a  complete  coating.  They  seldom  appear  on 
thrifty-growing  trees  in  good  soil ;  but  where  the  soil  is 
damp  and  cold,  and  the  trees  growing  feebly,  this  insect 
may  be  looked  for.  June  is  the  time  to  destroy  them, 
when  they  are  young.  At  other  times  they  are  hard,  and 
able  to  resist  any  ordinary  remedy.  The  same  application 
recommended  for  the  aphis,  applied  to  them  with  a  hard 
brush,  will  effect  their  destruction.  Where  they  have 
been  left  for  a  long  time  undisturbed,  and  have  pretty 
well  covered  the  tree,  the  quickest  and  best  remedy  is  to 
destroy  tree  and  all,  unless  it  possesses  some  extraordinary 
claim  for  indulgence.  Harris  mentions  a  reddish  brown 
bark-louse  found  on  his  grape-vine,  arranged  in  rows 
one  behind  another  in  the  crevices  of  the  bark. 

The  Apple-tree  Sorer  is  a  very  troublesome  insect  in 
some  sections  of  the  country.  In  Western  New  York 
we  have  never  met  with  it  but  in  two  or  three  instances, 
in  very  old,  neglected  orchards,  that  had  stood  for  twenty 
years  in  grass.  The  beetle  is  striped  brown  and  white, 
and  is  about  three-fourths  of  an  inch  long.  It  deposits  its 


INSECTS.  457 

eggs  in  June,  in  the  bark  of  the  trees  near  the  ground. 
Here  the  larva  is  hatched,  becoming  a  whitish  grub, 
which  saws  its  way  into  the  tree,  perforating  it  in  all 
directions,  sometimes  completely  girdling  it.  The  most 
eifectual  method  to  destroy  them  is,  to  insert  the  end  of  a 
wire  into  their  burrow,  and  killing  them.  The  same 
means  are  taken  to  guard  against  them  as  against  the 
peach-tree  grub,  viz.,  placing  a  mound  of  ashes  around 
the  base  of  the  trunk  in  the  spring,  and  allowing  it  to 
remain  until  after  the  season  in  which  the  beetles  deposit 
their  eggs.  It  prevents  them  from  reaching  the  soft  bark 
at  the  surface  of  the  ground,  the  place  usually  selected. 
It  is  stated  in  Downing's  Fruit  and  Fruit  Trees,  that  "  the 
beetles  may  be  destroyed  in  June  by  building  small  fires 
of  shavings  in  different  parts  of  the  orchard." 

The  Apple -Worm — Codling-Moth. — The  ravages  of 
this  insect  on  the  apple  are  becoming  quite  alarming,  and 
unless  its  destruction  be  pursued  with  prompt  and  perse- 
vering efforts,  our  apple-orchards  will  soon  cease  to  be 
profitable.  The  moth  appears  in  New  England,  New 
York,  and  other  places  similar  in  climate,  about  the  mid- 
dle of  June  ;  farther  south  earlier.  It  deposits  its  eggs 
in  the  eye  or  calyx  of  the  young  apple ;  in  a  few  days 
they  hatch,  and  the  worm  burrows  into  the  core  of  the 
fruit.  It  can  be  traced  by  the  brownish  powder  which  it 
casts  out  behind  it.  In  some  three  weeks  it  attains  its 
full  size,  and  escapes  from  the  apple  through  a  hole  which 
it  makes  in  the  side,  and  takes  shelter  in  the  scales  of  the 
bark  of  the  tree  or  such  other  suitable  place  as  it  can  find. 
It  has  been  supposed  that  they  remain  in  their  cocoons 
all  winter,  but  from  recent  observations  they  complete 
their  transformations  in  two  or  three  weeks,  and  raise  a  sec- 
ond '  brood.  Southward  it  is  even  supposed  that  they 
reach  the  third  generation  in  one  season. 

Means  of  Destruction. — 1st.  Scrape  and  clean  the  bark 
of  the  trees  thoroughly  early  in  spring,  and  see  that  no 
20 


458  DISEASES    AND    IXSECTS. 

cocoons  are  left  in  the  crevices.  2d.  Examine  all  barrels, 
bins,  shelves,  etc.,  where  apples  have  been  stored  in  cel- 
lars or  fruit-rooms.  3d.  Place  bandages  of  old  cloth,  car- 
pet, or  rags  of  any  kind  around  the  trunks  and  large 
branches  of  every  tree,  say  by  ]  st  of  July,  to  trap  the 
worms ;  examine  every  week  or  two,  and  kill  all  worms 
that  have  been  trapped.  4th.  Pick  or  knock  off  every 
wormy  fruit  before  the  worm  escapes,  and  destroy ;  pick 
up  all  that  drop,  and  destroy  in  the  same  way. 

The  Canker -Worm. — This  insect  is  confined  chiefly  to 
]STew  England ;  we  have  never  seen  it  in  New  York. 

They  generally  emerge  from  the  ground  in  March. 
According  to  Professor  Harris,  some  rise  during  the  late 
autumn  and  winter  months.  The  female  has  no  wings, 
but  crawls  up  the  tree,  and  lays  her  eggs  on  the  branches 
in  May,  in  clusters  of  60  to  100  in  each,  glued  to  each  other 
and  to  the  bark  by  a  grayish  varnish  impervious  to  water ; 
the  little  worms  fall  upon  the  leaves,  and,  when  numerous, 
devour  them  all,  leaving  only  the  mid-ribs.  They  leave 
the  trees  when  about  four  weeks  old,  and  enter  the  ground. 
Their  effects  are  most  visible  in  June,  when  the  trees,  di- 
vested of  their  foliage,  appear  as  if  scorched  by  fire. 

As  the  female  cannot  fly,  the  great  point  is  to  prevent 
her  from  crawling  up;  for  this  purpose  various  means 
have  been  tried  and  are  recommended.  One  of  the  most 
effectual  is  to  tie  strips  of  canvas  around  the  tree  and  cover 
them  with  tar,  renewing  the  tar  during  their  whole  season 
of  rising,  or  from  October  till  May.  Another  is,  to  make 
a  close-fitting  collar  of  boards  around  the  base  of  the  tree, 
and  keep  the  boards  covered  with  tar.  Mr.  J.  Dennis,  of 
Portsmouth,  R.  I.,  patented  a  circular  leaden  trough  filled 
with  oil,  which  proves  an  effectual  preventive. 

Caterpillars. — Of  these  there  are  many  kinds  that  are 
more  or  less  destructive  to  the-  foliage  of  fruit  trees;  but 
the  Caterpillar  described  by  Professor  Harris  as  the 
American  Tent  Caterpillar,  is  the  one  that  commits  such 


INSECTS.  459 

general  and  extensive  devastation  in  our  orchards,  and 
especially  in  certain  seasons.  The  moth  deposits  its  eggs 
in  July,  in  large  rings,  on  the  branches  of  the  trees ; 
these  remain  in  that  state  until  the  following  season,  when 
they  are  hatched  in  the  latter  end  of  May  or  beginning  of 
June.  Each  ring  produces  three  or  four  hundred  cater- 
pillars, and  these  weave  a  sort  of  web  to  live  in.  The 
appearance  of  a  tree  with  three  or  four  of  these  tents  upon 
it,  and  the  leaves  completely  devoured,  is  really  frightful. 
There  are  two  ways  of  destroying  them :  one  is,  to  examine 
the  trees  carefully  in  February  or  March,  at  pruning  time, 
and  destroy  the  clusters  of  eggs  by  cutting  off  and  burn- 
ing the  branches  on  which  they  are  found.  The  next  is 
to  destroy  the  caterpillars  in  their  tents  after  they  are 
hatched.  There  are  various  ways  of  doing  this,  according 
to  people's  fancy  and  ingenuity.  The  quickest  and  most 
effectual  method  is  to  take  a  ladder,  ascend  the  trees,  and 
remove  every  nest  with  the  hands.  The  early  morning 
should  be  chosen,  when  they  are  in  the  nests.  Some  put 
a  round  brush  on  a  pole  and  put  it  in  the  nests,  and  by 
giving  it  a  few  turns  web  and  all  are  removed. 

There  is  another  caterpillar,  Datana  ministry  which  is 
a  yellow  brown  in  color,  and  feeds  in  clusters  side  by  side, 
fairly  stripping  branch  after  branch  completely  of  its 
foliage.  Watchfulness  and  immediate  destruction  on 
sight  are  the  only  known  remedies.  Their  season  of  de- 
structive labor  is  in  August  and  September. 

The  Cherry  and  Pear  Slug. — This  is  a  most  destruc- 
tive insect.  They  appear  in  June  and  July  for  the  first, 
and  a  second  brood  afterwards,  small,  slimy,  dark-brown 
slugs  on  the  upper  surfaces  of  the  leaves  of  the  cherry 
and  pear.  They  devour  greedily  the  parenchyma  of  the 
leaves,  leaving  only  the  bare  network  of  veins.  In  a 
short  time  growth  is  completely  stopped. 

Stocks  for  budding  require  careful  watching,  for  a  day 
or  two  of  these  slugs  may  prevent  them  from  being  worked 


460  DISEASES  AND  INSECTS. 

that  season.  We  destroy  them  by  throwing  fine  earth 
taken  up  with  the  hand  among  the  trees,  and  by  ashes  or 
slaked  lime,  when  the  earth  is  not  sufficiently  dry  and 
fine.  The  caustic  properties  of  lime  and  ashes  render 
them  more  certainly  destructive  to  the  slug,  and  they 
should  always  be  used  in  preference  to  common  earth, 
where  only  a  few  trees  are  to  be  gone  over. 

A  liberal  syringing  with  the  tobacco  and  soap  liquid 
recommended  for  the  aphis,  but  in  a  weaker  state,  is  ser- 
viceable after  the  ashes  and  lime.  It  must  be  remembered 
that  one  application  will  seldom  be  sufficient.  Some 
escape  even  to  the  third  or  fourth ;  but  in  all  cases  the 
warfare  should  be  sustained  whilst  one  remains.  They 
are  generally  most  troublesome  in  warm  and  dry  seasons. 

TJie  Currant-  Worm.— This  is  a  small,  light,  yellow  worm 
that  eats  the  leaves  of  currants  and  gooseberries  in  June. 
The  remedy  is  to  dust  the  leaves  with  powdered  white 
hellebore,  as  soon  as  it  first  appears,  and  repeat  daily  till 
the  worm  disappears.  We  have  also  used  dry  fresh- 
slaked  lime  successfully. 

The  Curculio  or  Plum  -  Weevil. — This  is  a  small  grayish- 
brown  beetle,  nearly  a  quarter  of  an  inch  long ;  the  wing- 
covers  form  two  little  humps  on  the  back,  which  give  it 
a  roundish  appearance,  and  it  has  a  long  crooked  snout, 
well  adapted  to  its  destructive  propensities.  They  can 
fly,  but  are  not  active;  and  by  jarring  the  part  on  which 
they  stand,  suddenly,  they  fall  to  the  ground,  draw  in 
their  legs,  and  appear  dead.  It  deposits  its  egg  in  a 
semicircular  incision  which  it  makes  in  the  young  fruit ; 
it  there  hatches,  eats  into  the  fruit,  and  causes  it  to  fall 
while  yet  green.  In  some  places  it  destroys  the  entire 
crop  of  plums,  apricots,  and  nectarines,  and  attacks  even 
the  cherry  and  the  apple.  The  peach,  even,  is  not  wholly 
exempt,  notwithstanding  its  coat  of  down.  Almost  every 
remedy  that  ingenuity  can  devise  has  been  tried.  This 
whole  book  would  not  contain  what  has  been  written 


INSECTS.  461 

on  the  subject  in  one  year  alone.  Yet  no  complete,  effec- 
tual remedy  has  been  discovered.  The  strongest  liquid 
applications  of  lime,  soap,  and  tobacco,  the  most  power- 
ful and  offensive  odors  that  repel  any  other  insects,  are 
entirely  harmless  and  inoffensive  to  the  curculio.  There 
seem  to  be  really  but  two  means  worthy  of  being  re- 
sorted to.  One  is,  to  pave,  or  in  some  other  way  harden, 
the  surface  of  the  ground,  so  that  the  grubs  cannot 
enter  it  to  complete  their  transformations.  This  is  found 
efficient  where  no  other  trees  are  in  the  immediate  vicinity 
not  paved.  We  have  seen  many  instances  where  good 
crops  were  obtained  by  this  mode.  The  fact  that  they 
are,  as  a  general  thing,  less  troublesome  in  stiff  clay 
soils  than  in  light  porous  ones,  is  alone  a  proof  of  the 
efficacy  of  a  stiff  or  impenetrable  surface  soil. 

Add  to  this  the  picking  up  of  fruit  containing  the  grub 
as  soon  as  it  drop-;  from  the  tree,  and  before  the  worm 
has  a  chance  to  escape. 

To  accomplish  both  these  ends,  some  people  have 
planted  their  plums  and  apricots  in  a  small  inclosure  by 
themselves,  adjoining  the  hog-pen,  and  as  soon  as  the 
fruits  begin  to  drop  these  animals  are  admitted,  and 
gather  all  up,  and  at  the  same  time  tread  the  ground 
so  firmly  that  it  is  almost  as  good  as  if  it  were  paved. 

This  is  probably  the  easiest  and  best  way  to  insure  a 
crop  of  the  fruits  attacked  by  this  insect. 

Another  way  is,  to  jar  the  tree  daily,  from  the  moment 
they  begin  to  appear,  which  is  when  the  fruit  is  the  size 
of  a  pea,  until  they  have  disappeared,  or  the  fruit  begins 
to  ripen,  when  it  is  no  longer  attacked.  This  is  our  own 
method,  and  is  successful.  The  insects  are  easier  jarred 
off  in  the  cool  of  the  morning,  while  they  are  torpid. 

Before  commencing  to  jar  them  down,  a  white  sheet  or 
clotfi,  wide  enough  to  cover  all  the  ground  under  the 
branches,  should  be  spread  to  receive  the  insects  as  they 
fall,  so  that  they  may  be  destroyed.  This  was  recom- 


462  DISEASES    AND    INSECTS, 

mended  through  the  "  Genesee  Farmer,"  by  David  Thomas, 
forty  years  ago.  At  the  West  a  machine  or  hand  butting- 
barrow  has  been  introduced  for  jarring  and  catching  the 
curculio  in  large  orchards,  but  it  is  said  to  injure  the  trees 
by  the  severe  blows  consequently  necessary  with  its  use. 

From  repeated  observations,  I  am  inclined  to  believe 
that  it  is  quite  sensitive  to  cold,  for  it  is  well  known  that 
in  the  cool  of  the  morning  it  is  always  in  a  comparative 
state  of  torpor ;  and  in  the  cold  seasons  of  1849-50,  when 
our  peach  trees  and  fruit  were  so  greatly  injured,  the  cur- 
culio was  driven  off,  and  we  had  a  most  abundant  crop 
of  plums.  A  cold  day  or  two  may  not  affect  it ;  but 
when  it  continues  for  two  weeks,  as  in  the  years  referred 
to,  it  seems  to  be  rendered  powerless  for  that  season. 

Ants. — These  are  not  very  destructive,  yet  they  some- 
times do  considerable  injury  to  beds  of  seedlings,  by 
making  their  hillocks  among  them,  and  they  also  infest 
ripe  fruits. 

Boiling  water,  oil,  or  spirits  of  turpentine,  poured  on 
their  hillocks,  disperses  them ;  and  if  wide-mouthed  bot- 
tles, half-filled  with  sweetened  water  or  syrup,  be  hung 
among  the  branches  of  a  tree  when  the  fruit  is  attaining 
maturity,  ants,  wasps,  flies,  and  beetles  of  all  sorts  that 
prey  greedily  upon  sweets,  will  be  attracted  into  them. 

Mr.  Downing,  who  recommends  this  as  a  "  general  ex- 
tirpator suited  to  all  situations,"  says  that  "  an  acquaint- 
ance caught  in  this  way,  in  one  season,  more  than  three 
bushels  of  insects  of  various  kinds,  and  preserved  his 
garden  almost  entirely  against  them." 

A  gentleman  in  Detroit,  who  was  very  careful  of  his 
garden,  informed  me  that  he  had  pursued  this  method 
of  trapping  insects  with  results  that  perfectly  astonished 
him.  He  had  to  empty  the  bottles  every  few  days  to 
make  room  for  more.  A  very  good  way  of  trapping  and 
killing  ants  is,  to  besmear  the  inside  of  flower-pots  with 
molasses,  and  turn  them  on  their  mouths  near  the  hillock ; 


INSECTS.  463 

the  insects  will  soon  assemble  inside  on  the  molasses, 
when  they  are  easily  destroyed  by  a  handful  of  burning 
straw. 

The  Peach -Tree  Borer. — This  is  a  most  destructive 
insect  when  allowed  to  increase  for  a  few  years  without 
molestation.  We  have  seen  whole  orchards  of  fine  trees 
ruined  by  them.  They  sometimes  attack  even  young 
trees  in  the  nursery,  and  commit  serious  depredations  on 
their  collar,  rendering  them  in  many  cases  quite  unfit  for 
planting.  Their  multiplication  should  be  prevented  by 
all  possible  means.  The  eggs  are  deposited  in  summer 
on  the  base  of  the  trunk,  near  the  collar,  where  the  bark 
is  soft.  There  they  are  hatched,  and  bore  their  way 
under  the  bark  of  the  tree,  either  in  the  stem  or  root,  or 
both,  producing  an  effusion  of  gum.  Where  trees  are 
already  affected,  the  proper  course  is,  to  remove  the  earth 
from  around  the  cpllar  of  the  root,  clean  away  the  gum, 
destroy  any  cocoons  that  may  be  found,  trace  the  grub 
through  its  holes  in  the  tree,  and  kill  it ;  then  fill  up 
around  the  tree  with  fresh  earth,  and  place  a  shovelful  or 
two  of  ashes  around  the  base.  One  of  the  best  orchards 
in  the  vicinity  of  Rochester  was  at  one  time  nearly  ruined 
by  the  prevalence  of  this  grub,  when  it  changed  pro- 
prietors, and  the  present  one  adopted  and  followed  the 
plan  recommended  above,  until  there  is  not  the  trace  of 
one  left.  The  ashes  or  slaked  lime  should  be  applied 
every  spring,  and  at  the  end  of  summer  may  be  scattered 
about  the  tree ;  both  ashes  and  lime  form  an  excellent 
dressing  for  the  peach. 

The  Rose-Bug. — The  eggs  of  this  insect  are  laid  in 
the  earth,  where  they  are  hatched,  and  from  which  the 
bug  emerges  about  the  rose  season. 

In  some  seasons  and  in  some  localities  they  appear  like 
grasshoppers  in  vast  multitudes,  and  commit  extensive 
ravages,  not  only  on  the  rose  but  fruit  trees  and  all  other 
green  things.  Syringing  the  plants  with  diluted  whale- 


464  DISEASES    AND    INSECTS. 

oil  soap  is  the  only  remedy  aside  from  hand-picking,  which 
is  most  effectual.  One  gallon  of  whale-oil  soap  to  three 
gallons  of  water  syringed  over  them,  when  on  the  tree, 
effectually  destroys  them.  In  some  cases  fruit  trees  have 
been  protected  by  covering  them  with  millinet. 

Leaf-Rollers. — In  May  and  June  these  insects  may  be 
found  on  the  leaves  of  fruit  trees,  and  especially  on  the 
pear ;  they  form  for  themselves  a  sort  of  cocoon  out  of  the 
leaf.  The  leaves  attacked  by  them  should  be  removed  and 
destroyed,  in  order  to  prevent  their  increase.  The  eggs 
are  deposited  on  the  young  leaves  by  some  of  the  multi- 
tudes of  spring  beetles. 

SECTION  3. — ANIMALS  INJURIOUS    TO  FRUITS  AND 
FRUIT  TREES. 

JBirds. — As  a  general  thing,  birds  are  more  the  friends 
than  the  enemies  of  the  garden.  Many  of  them  subsist 
in  greater  part  on  insects,  and  thus  perform  services 
that  are  by  no  means  appreciated.  The  early  cherries 
and  grapes  are  generally  the  greatest  sufferers  by  them, 
and  various  devices  are  practised  to  frighten  them  away, 
the  most  cruel  of  which  is  shooting,  which  must,  however, 
in  some  cases  be  resorted  to.  Moving  objects  resembling 
the  human  figure,  bits  of  looking-glass  or  tin  suspended 
among  the  branches,  etc.,  are  often  effectual.  Dwarf 
trees  are  easily  covered  with  thin  netting  supported  on 
poles  and  fastened  at  the  base  of  the  tree. 

Field  Mice. — The  most  effectual  preventive  is  clean 
culture.  Leave  no  grass,  weeds,  rubbish,  or  heaps  of 
stones  around  the  garden  or  orchard,  and  the  mice  will 
seldom  be  troublesome.  Their  operations  of  girdling 
are  principally  carried  on  beneath  the  snow,  and  when 
this  is  firmly  trodden  down  as  soon  as  it  falls,  it  ob- 
structs their  way.  A  correspondent  of  the  "Horticul- 
turist" states  that  he  has  found  tin  tubes  fixed  around 
the  base  of  the  tree,  an  effectual  remedy ;  and  Mr. 


ANIMALS    INJURIOUS    TO    FRUIT   TREES.  465 

Hooker,  of  Rochester,  has  successfully  driven  them  off 
with  poison.  He  takes  a  block  of  wood  six  inches  long 
and  three  or  four  square,  and  bores  it  lengthwise  with 
an  inch-and-a-half  auger  nearly  through,  and  places  in 
the  lower  end  some  corn-meal  and  arsenic.  He  places 
these  blocks  among  the  trees,  mouth  inclined  down- 
wards, "to  keep  the  powder  dry." 

Great  destruction  of  orchards  was  committed  by  the 
mice  in  the  winter  of  1869-70,  and  since  then  various  con- 
trivances have  been  resorted  to.  One  is  to  incase  the  lower 
part  of  the  tree  in  a  thin,  flexible  wooden  covering.  Corn 
and  corn-meal  mixed  with  poison  and  scattered  around 
the  trees  has  also  been  employed,  with  more  or  less  success. 

Moles. — These  are  easily  poisoned  and  driven  off,  by 
putting  pills  of  flour  mixed  with  arsenic  into  their  holes, 
and  shutting  them  up.  We  have  seen  them  banished 
by  bits  of  dried  codfish  placed  in  the  entrance  of  their  holes. 

Cats  often  commit  serious  depredations  on  trees  by 
scratching  the  bark.  Quite  recently  we  saw  a  large 
number  of  beautiful  fruit  trees  nearly  ruined  by  them. 
A  few  briers  secured  around  trees  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
house,  where  they  frequent  most,  will  be  a  sufficient 
protection. 

Hogs. — It  is  not  generally  supposed  that  these  ani- 
mals will  attack  trees ;  but  we  have  heard  of  a  Western 
farmer  who  turned  in  a  large  number  of  them  to  con- 
sume the  corn  that  had  been  grown  in  his  young 
orchard.  When  the  corn  began  to  grow  scarce  they  at- 
tacked the  trees,  and  not  one  out  of  several  hundred 
but  was  completely  girdled— the  bark  gnawed  off  as  far 
up  as  the  brutes  could  reach. 

Where  it  may  be  desirable  to  turn  hogs  into  an  or- 
chard, unless  the  feed  be  very  abundant,  the  trees  should  be 
protected  around  the  base  with  thorns,  briers,  or  some 
prickly  brush. 

Habbits  may  be  deterred  from  causing  injury  by  rub- 
20* 


466  NURSERY    AND    FRUIT    GARDEN    IMPLEMENTS. 

bing  the  body  of  the  tree  with  fresh  blood  once  in  a  week 
or  so  during  winter,  or  by  wrapping  them  a  foot  or  two 
above  the  ground  with  thick,  firm  paper. 


CHAPTER     IV. 


NURSERY,  ORCHARD,  AND    FRUIT-GARDEN    IMPLEMENTS. 

THE  following  are  the  principal  implements  used  in  the 
propagation,  pruning,  and  cultivation  of  fruit-trees  :* 

SECTION  1. — IMPLEMENTS  OF  THE  SOIL. 

The  Subsoil  Plow  (see  fig.  160)  is  the   great  reformer 
of  the  day  in  the  preparation  of  soils  of  all  qualities  and 


Fig.  160. — SUBSOIL  PLOW. 

textures,  for  nursery,  orchard,  or  garden  trees.  It  follows 
the  ordinary  plow  in  the  same  furrow  ;  and  the  largest 
size,  ETo.  2,  with  a  powerful  team,  can  loosen  the  subsoil 
to  the  depth  of  eighteen  inches.  No.  1  will  be  sufficient 
in  clear  land  when  the  subsoil  is  not  very  stiff. 

The  One-Horse  Plow. — Similar  to  the  common  plow 
used  by  farmers.  It  is  a  labor-saving  implement  for  cul- 
tivating the  ground  among  nursery-trees  or  orchards 

*  A  share  of  the  engravings  used  in  the  illustration  of  this  chapter  arc  from 
the  elaborate  Implement  Catalogue  of  R  H.  Allen  &  Co.,  No.  189  and  191  Water 
street,  New  York  City. 


IMPLEMENTS    OF    THE    SOIL. 


467 


closely  planted.  The  horse  should  be  steady,  the  man 
careful,  and  the  whiffle-tree  as  short  as  possible,  that  the 
trees  need  not  be  bruised.  It  should  neither  run  so  deep 
nor  so  near  the  trees  as  to  injure  the  roots. 

The    Cultivator. — This,   with    the   plow,    obviates    the 


Fig1.    161.— CULTIVATOR. 

necessity  of  spade-work,  and,  in  a  great  measure,  hoeing. 
If  the  ground  be  plowed  in  the  spring,  and  the  cultivator 
passed  over  it  once  every  week  or  two  during  the 
summer,  all  the  hoeing  necessary  will  be  a  narrow 
strip  of  a  few  inches  on  each  side  of  the  row.  The 
double-pointed  steel-toothed,  with  a  wheel  in  front,  as 
shown  in  fig.  161,  is  the  best. 

The  Tree-Digging  Plow. — This  implement  facilitates 
the  work  and  entirely  supersedes  the  spade  in  the  labor 
of  digging  trees  of  the  usual  size  in  the  nursery,  where  an 
entire  plot  is  to  be  cleared.  "  It  is  constructed  (see  fig. 
162)  with  two  beams,  one  to  run  On  each  side  of  the  row  of 
trees,  two  sets  of  handles,  and  a  peculiar  share,  much  in 
shape  like  the  letter  U.  This  share  is  very  sharp,  the 
horizontal  part  runs  under,  and  the  vertical  ones  on  each 


468  NURSERY    AND    FRUIT    GARDEN    IMPLEMENTS. 

side  of  the  trees,  and  the  roots  are  thus  smoothly  cut  off, 
while  the  trees  remain  standing.  The  plow  is  of  course  pro- 
pelled by  horses  and  guided  by  two  plowmen.  It  is  an 
admirable  implement  for  root-pruning  young  trees,  espe- 
cially evergreens,  in  place  of  the  old  practice  of  removing 


Fig.    162. — TREE-DIGGING  PLOW. 

them  in  order  to  cause  them  to  throw  out  fibres  and  make 
balls  suited  to  future  removal. 

The  One-Horse  Cart. — This  is  an  indispensable  machine 
in  the  nursery,  orchard,  or  large  garden.  Four-wheeled 
wagons  are  difficult  to  unload,  and  require  a  great  deal  of 
space  to  turn  in.  The  cart  can  be  turned  in  a  circle  of 
twelve  or  fourteen  feet,  and  the  load  discharged  in  a  mo- 
ment, simply  by  taking  out  the  key  that  fastens  the  body 
to  the  shafts,  throwing  it  up,  and  moving  the  horse  forward. 
Our  carts  are  about  six  feet  long  and  three  wide  in  the 
body,  shafts  six  feet  long,  wheels  four  and  a  half  feet 
high,  and  tire  two  and  a  half  wide,  to  prevent  them  from 
sinking  into  the  ground.  The  box  is  about  a  foot  deep, 
and  when  large  loads  are  to  be  carried  a  spreading  board 
is  put  on  the  top  with  brackets.  Cost  from  $30  to  $50. 

The  Wheelbarrow  (fig.  163). — Every  man  who  has  a 
rod  of  ground  to  cultivate  should  possess  this  machine. 
In  small  gardens  it  is  sufficient  for  the  conveyance  of  all 
manures,  soils,  products,  etc.,  and  in  larger  places  it  is  al- 


IMPLEMENTS    OP    THE    SOIL. 


469 


ways  needed  for  use,  where  a  cart  cannot  go.  The  handles 
or  levers  should  he  of  ash  or  some  tough  wood,  and  the 


Fig.    163. — WHEELBARROW 

sides  and  bottom  of  any  light  wood.  The  wheel  is  soft 
wood,  shod  with  iron. 

The  Spade  (fig.  164).— The  best  kinds 
of  these  in  use  are  Ames'  cast-steel; 
excellent,  strong,  light  articles.  They 
work  clean  and  bright  as  silver.  There 
are  several  sizes.  For  heavy  work, 
trenching,  draining,  raising  trees,  etc., 
the  largest  should  be  used. 

The  Shovel  (fig.  165).— This  is  used 
in  mixing,  loading,  and  spreading  com- 
posts and  short  manures.  The  blade 
should  be  of  cast-steel. 

The  Forked  Spade  (fig.  166).— This 
resembles  a  fork.  It  has  three  to  five 
stout  cast-steel  tines,  at  least  an  inch 
wide,  and  pointed.  It  is  used  instead 
of  a  spade  to  loosen  the  earth  about 
the  roots  of  trees,  to  turn  in  manures, 
etc.,  being  much  less  liable  to  cut  and 
injure  them  than  the  spade. 

The  Dung-ForJc  (fig.  167).— There 
Those  of  cast-steel,  cut  out  of  a  solid 


Fig.   164.— SPADE. 
are  several  kinds. 


470 


NURSERY    AND    FRUIT    GARDEN    IMPLEMENTS. 


plate,  with  three  or  four  tines,  are  the  best,  light  and  dura- 
ble; they  are  sometimes  made  with  six  tines.  It  is  the 
only  implement  proper  for  loading,  mixing,  or  spreading 
fresh  rough  manures  with  facility  and  dispatch. 


Fig.  165.— SHOVEL. 


Ficr.  166. — FORKED  SPADES. 


The  Pick. — This  is  a  useful,  and  even  indispensable 
implement  in  the  deepening  or  trenching  of  soils  with  a 
hard  subsoil  that  cannot  be  operated  upon  with  the  spade. 
It  consists  of  an  ash  handle,  and  a  head  composed  of  two 
levers  of  iron  pointed  with  steel,  and  an  eye  in  the  centre 
for  the  handle. 

The  Garden-Line  and  Reel  (fig.  168).— The  line  should 
be  a  good  hemp  cord,  from  one  eighth  to  one  fourth  of  an 
inch  in  diameter,  attached  to  light  iron  stakes  about  eigh- 
teen inches  long.  On  one  of  the  stakes  a  reel  is  attached. 


IMPLEMENTS    OF    -HE    SOIL. 


471 


This  is  turned  by  means  of  a  handle,  and  the  line  neatly 
and  quickly  wound  up. 

The  Hoe. — This  is  a  universal  instrument  in  this  coun- 
try. In  some  cases, 
all  the  gardening 
operations  are  per- 
formed with  it.  Its 
uses  in  tree  culture 
are  to  open  trenches 
for  seeds,  to  cover 
them,  to  loosen  and 
clean  the  surface  of 
the  ground  from 
weeds,  etc.  There 
are  two  kinds,  the 
draw  hoe  (figs.  169, 
170,  171)  and  the 
Dutch  or  thrust  hoe 
(fig.  172) ;  this  we  do 
not  use  at  all.  Of 
the  different  kinds 
and  forms  of,  the 
draw1  hoe,  the  most 


generally 


useful    is 
a    cast- 


Fig.    167. — DUNG-FORKS. 


the    square, 

steel  plate,  about  six  inches  long  and  four  wide,  with  a 
light,  smooth  handle.  The  semicircular 
and  triangular  hoes  may  be  advantage- 
ously used  in  certain  cases. 

The  Pointed  Garden  Hoe  (fig.  173)  is 
useful  among  borders  and  small  plants. 
The  Hake  (fig.  174)  is  used  to  level, 
smooth,  pulverize,  and  clean  the  surface 
of  the  ground  after  it  has  been  spaded 
Fig.  168,-LiNE  AND  or  hoed>  or  to  prepare  it  for  seeds,  etc. 
REEL.  They  are  of  different  sizes,  with  from 


472  NURSERY    AND    FRUIT   GARDEN    IMPLEMENTS. 

six  to  twelve  teeth.     The  best  are  those  of  which  the 
head  and   teeth  are  drawn  out  of  a  solid   bar  of  steel. 

Those  that  are  welded  and  riveted   soon  get 

out  of  order. 

SECTION  2.  —  IMPLEMENTS  TOR  CUTTING. 

The  Pruning  Saw.  —  This  is  used  for  cutting 
oif  branches,  either  too  large  for  the  knife,  or  so 
situ.-ited  that  the  knife  cannot  operate.  It  has 
various  sizes  and  forms.  Some  are  jointed, 
and  fold  like  a  pruning-knife  ;  others  are  like 
the  common  carpenter's  handsaw,  but  smaller 
and  stouter.  Two  forms  are  shown  at  fig.  175. 

The  Sow-Saw  (fig.  176).—  This  is  the  most 
generally  useful  form  for  the  gardener  or  nur- 
Fig.  169.—  seryman.  The  blade  is  very  narrow,  and  stiff- 
SQUAKE  ene(i  k  an  arch  kack>  jt  is  fastened  at  both 


ends  by  a  rivet  to  the  screw  on  which  the 
back  turns,  and  by  which  it  is  adapted  to  different  pur- 
poses. It  is  indispensable  in  making  horizontal  cuts  close 
to  the  ground,  as  in  heading  down. 

Some  are  set  with  a  double  row  of  teeth  on  one  side, 


Fig.  170. — TRIANGULAR  DRAW-HOE.    Fig.  171. — SEMICIRCULAR  DRAW-HOB. 

and  the  edge  is  much  thicker  than  the  ]?ack ;  these  work 
much  easier  than  those  toothed  in  the  ordinary  way,  and 
it  would  be  an  object  to  have  them  where  much  saw-prun- 


IMPLEMENTS    FOR    CUTTING. 


473 


ing  is  to  be  done.  Wherever  the  saw  is  use*d,  the  cut 
surface  should  be  pared  smooth  with  the  knife,  to  facili- 
tate its  healing. 

Long-handled  pruning-saws  are  sometimes  recommended, 
but  never  should  be 
used  in  pruning  fruit- 
trees,  if  possible  to 
avoid  it.  The  branch 
to  be  operated  should 
be  reached  by  means 
of  a  ladder,  if  need 
be,  within  arm's 
length,  and  cut  with 
a  common  saw. 

Hand  Pruning- 
Shears  (fig.  177).— 
There  is  a  kind  of 
these  made  now, 
that,  having  a  mov- 
ing center,  as  in  the 
figure,  make  a  smooth 
draw  cut  almost 
equal  to  that  of  a 
knife,  and  it  is  a  very 
expeditious  instru- 
ment in  the  hand  of 
a  skilful  workman.  In  pruning  out  small 
dead  branches,  shortening  in  peach- 
trees,  etc.,  it  will  perform  four  times  as 

much  work  as  a  knife. 

Fig.    173.  —  POINTED 

Pruning  Scissors  (fig.  178).— These        GARDEN-HOE. 
scissors  cut  as  smoothly  as  a  knife,  and  can  be  easily  car- 
ried in  the  pocket,  ready  to  take  away  a  small  branch 
wherever  it  may  chance  to  be  observed. 

Lopping  or  Branch  Shears. — These  are  very  strongly 


-DUTCH    OB 
THRUST-HOE. 


474          NURSERY    AND    FRUIT    GARDEN    IMPLEMENTS. 


made,  with*  long  wooden  handles,  and  are  used  for  cutting 
thick  branches  from  trees,  shrub- 
bery, hedges,  etc.  One  form  is 
shown  in  fig.  179. 

Pole  Pruning  Shears.  —  These 
resemble  the  hand-shears,  but  are 
worked  by  a  string  passing  over  a 
pulley,  and  are  fixed  on  a  pole  of 
any  required  length.  They  are  used 
in  cutting  cions,  diseased  shoots, 
etc.,  from  the  heads  of  lofty  stand- 
ard trees. 

Grape  Scissors. — These  are  small, 
sharp-pointed  scissors,  as  in  fig.  180, 
for  thinning  bunches  of  grapes. 

The  Pruning-Knife. — The  best 
for  general  purposes  are  those  of 
medium  size,  with  a  handle  about 
four  inches  long,  smooth,  slightly 
hollowed  in  the  back ;  the  blade 
about  three  and  a  half  inches  lon^ 

Fig.    174.— GARDEN   RAKE.         ,  „  .        ,  .  n  , 

three  quarters  01  an  inch  wide,  and 
nearly  straight  (fig.  181).     For  very  heavy  work  a  larger 


Fisr.  175. — PRUNING-SAWS. 


size  may  be  necessary.     "  Saynor's  "  (English)  knives  of 
this  kind  are   unsurpassed  in  material  and  finish. 

The  Budding -Knife. — This  is  much  smaller  than  the 


IMPLEMENTS    FOR    CUTTING. 


475 


pruning-knife,  with  a  thin,  straight  blade,  the  edge  some- 
times rounded  at  the  point.     The  handle    is  of  bone   or 

ivory,  and  has  a  thin, 
wedge-shaped  end  for 
raising  the  bark.  Bud- 

^™HB*0     ders  have  various  fan- 
Fig.    176.— BOW-SAW.  .  ,  , 

cies   about    shape  and 
size;  one  form  is  given  in  figure  182. 

The  Grafting-  Chisel — This  is  used  for  splitting  large 


Fig'.    177. — HAND   PRUNING-SHEAES. 

stocks  ;  the  blade  is  about  two  inches  long,  and  an  inch  and 
a  half  wide,  in  the  shape  of  a  wedge  ;  the  edge  curved  so 
as  to  cut,  and  not  tear  the  bark  ;  the  handle  eight  or  ten 

inches  long,  at  the  end  of 
which  is  a  narrow  wedge  to 
keep  the  split  open  until  the 
cion  is  inserted.  (See  figure 
183.)  The  whole  is  of  steel. 


middle,  the  wedge 


Fig.  178. — PEUNING-SCISSORS. 

Some  are  made  with  the  blade  in  the 

at  one  end,  and 

a  hook  to  hang 

it    by   on    the 

other. 

Mr.  David  S. 
Wagner,  o  f 
Pulteney,  1ST. 
Y.,  has  invent- 
ed an  ingenious 

implement    for  Fig.  179. — LOPPING  OR  BRANCH  SHEAES. 

grafting  grapes;  as  it   is   patented,  those  who    desire  to 
know  about  it  may  inquire  of  the  inventor. 


476 


NURSERY    AND    FRUIT    GARDEN    IMPLEMENTS. 


Tree-Scraper  (fig.   184). — This  is  made  of  heavy  plate- 
steel,  with  a  long,  jointed 
handle  for  scraping  upper 
branches,  or  a  short  one 
Fig.  180.— GRAPE  SCISSORS.          for  the  trunks. 

SECTION  3. — LADDERS  AND  FRUIT-GATHERERS. 

Ladders. — Of  these  there    are   many  kinds.     For  the 
fruit-garden,  where 
the   trees  are  low, 
the  self-supporting 
ladder  (fig.  185)  is  lgl  PRUNING.KNIPE. 

the   most   conveni- 
ent and  best.     It  should  be  made  of  light  wood,  with  flat 

steps,  so  that  a  person 
can  stand  upon  them 
and  work.  The  back, 
or  supports,  consist  of 


Fig.    182. — BUDDING-KNIFE. 


Fig.   183. — GRAFTING  CHISEL. 


one  or  two  light  pieces  of  timber,  fixed  at  the  top  with 

hooks  and  straps,  so  as  to  be  contracted  or  extended  at 

pleasure.     A  ladder  of 

this    kind,  six  or  eight 

feet    high,  will    answer 

all    the    demands   of  a 

garden. 

Orchard  Ladders  are  of  various  kinds.  For  pruning  or 
gathering  the  fruit  from  lofty  trees,  a  great  length  of  lad- 
der is  necessary ;  it  is  therefore  desirable  that  the  mate- 
rial be  as  light  as 
possible  consistent 
with  the  necessary 
strength.  Some- 

times these  long  lad- 
ders   are    composed 
of  several   smaller   ones,  that   fit   into    one    another,  all 


Fig.    184. — TREE-SCRAPER. 


LADDERS. 


477 


mounted  on  a  frame  with  a  small  wheel,  by  which  they 
are  easily  moved  about. 

The  Folding  Ladder  is  a  very  neat  and  convenient  ar- 
ticle for  many  purposes.     The 
inside    of   the    styles    is   hol- 
lowed out,  and  the  steps  are 
fastened  to  them  by  means  of 
iron  pins,  on  which  they  turn 
as  on  hinges,  so  that  the  two 
sides  can  be  brought  together, 
the    steps    turning    into   the 
grooves  or  hollows  in  them, 
the   whole    appearing    like   a 
round  pole — B.      It   is   more 
f^  easily  carried  and  placed  where 
1  wanted  than  the  ordinary  lad- 
der.     A   represents   it    open, 
and  B  closed  (fig.  186). 
There  are  also  Self-supporting  Orchard-Ladders,  com- 
posed of  three  upright  pieces  of  any  required  length,  and 
spread  widely  at  the  bottom,  to  give  them  stability.    Two 


185. — FRUIT-LADDER. 


186. — FOLDING  LADDER. 


of  the  sides  are  fixed,  and  are  furnished  with  steps  all 
the  way  up.  The  third  is  longer  and  movable,  and  can 
be  extended  or  contracted  at  pleasure. 

A  piece  of  board  wide  enough  to  stand  upon  can  be 
extended  from  one  side  to  the  other,  resting  upon  the 
steps  at  whatever  hight  it  is  desirable  to  work.  On  the 
movable  side  a  pulley  is  fixed,  by  which  the  baskets  of 
fruit  are  let  down  as  they  are  gathered.  Two  persons  or 


478 


NURSERY    AND    FRUIT    GARDEN    IMPLEMENTS. 


more  can  ascend  and  work  on  a  ladder  at  the  same  time. 

Fig.   187    represents   one  of  these ;    a,  #,  the   two   fixed 

sides  ;  (7,  the  movable  one.  It 
is  considerably  used  in  France. 
The  Orchardistfs  Hook  is  a 
light  rod,  with  a  hook  on  one 
end,  and  a  movable  piece  of 
wood  that  slides  along  it. 

The  person  gathering  fruit 
draws  ti.e  branch  towards 
him  with  the  hooked  end,  and 
retains  it  there  by  means  of 
the  sliding  piece  which  is 
hooked  to  another  branch. 
This  is  an  indispensable  in- 
strument in  gathering  fruit 

Fig.    187.-SELF-SUPPORTING  from    j  t 

ORCHARD   LADDER.  _.  _      , 

1-i'Tuit-  Gatherers. — Of  these 
there  are  many  designs  by  which  the  fruit  may  be  taken 


Fig.    188. — GRAPE-GATHERER. 


from  the  tree  by  a  person  standing  on  the  ground.     They 


FJ£.    189.— HAND   SYRINGE. 

answer  very  well  for  gathering  a  few  ripe  specimens  for 


FRUIT-GATHERERS. 


479 


immediate  consumption.  The  ladder,  hook,  and  hand  are 
the  only  safe  and  expeditious  fruit-gatherers.  Some  are 
made  in  the  form  of  'a  vase  of  wood  or  tin  placed  on  the 
end  of  a  pole.  The  edge  of  the  vase  is  toothed,  and 
when  the  stem  of  the  fruit  is  taken  between  two  of  the 
teeth,  and  slightly  twisted,  it  drops.  Others  are  composed 
of  a  pair  of  shears  on  the  end  of  a  pole,  to  which  a  basket 
is  attached  that  slides  up  and  down  the  handle. 


Fig.    190. — BARROW-ENGINE. 

The   Grape-  Gatherer  resembles  a  pair  of  shears  com- 
bining the  property  of  pincers.     They  cut  a  bunch  of 


480  NURSERY    AND    FRUIT    GARDEN    IMPLEMENTS. 

grapes,  and  hold  it  firmly  until  it  is  brought  down. 
These  are  very  useful  for  gathering  a  few  bunches  of 
grapes  from  the  top  of  a  house  or  trellis  (fig.  188). 

SECTION   4. — MACHINES   FOR   WATERING. 

The  Hand-Syringe  (fig.  189). — This  is  a  very  useful 
implement  for  sprinkling  and  washing  the  foliage  of  trees 
in  dry  weather.  There  are  various  kinds,  made  of  tin, 
copper,  and  brass,  and  sold  at  various  prices.  Whatever 
sort  is  used  should  have  several  caps  (A]  to  regulate  the 
quantity  or  shower  of  water  discharged ;  and  they  should 
also  have  an  inverted  or  "  gooseneck "  one  (.B)  to  throw 
the  stream,  if  necessary,  on  the  under  side  of  leaves,  or  in 
any  oblique  direction. 

There  are,  also,  hand-engines,  barrel-engines,  and  bar- 
row-engines, all  of  which  are 
very  useful.  In  every  large 
garden  there  should  be  both  the 
syringe  and  one  of  these  en- 
gines; for  watering  is  a  most 
important  aifair  in  gardening 
under  our  hot  sun  and  pro- 
Fig.  191.-WATERING-POT.  tKlCted  d™UtllS- 

The     Barrow  -  Engine     (fig. 

190)  is  the  most  useful  for  general  purposes ;  it  is  easily 
moved  from  one  place  to  another.  The  improved  kinds  are 
easily  worked,  and  the  water-box,  being  provided  with  a 
strainer,  excludes  anything  likely  to  derange  its  operations. 
The  Garden  Watering-pot  (fig.  191). — This  is  a  tin 
or  copper  vessel  that  may  hold  from  one  to  four  gal- 
lons of  water,  with  a  spout  six  or  eight  inches  long,  by 
which  the  water  is  discharged.  There  should  be  a  rose  or 
roses,  as  in  cut,  to  fit  on  the  spout,  pierced  with  large  or 
small  holes,  by  which  the  water  can  be  discharged  in  a 
shower.  Every  pot  may  have  several  roses,  pierced  with 
holes  of  various  sizes,  to  adapt  them  to  different  purposes. 


Almonds . 434 

American  Blight 455 

Animals    Injurious    to   Fruits  and 

Fruit-Trees 464 

Ants 462 

Aphis  or  Plant-Louse 454 

Apple  and  Pear  as  Espaliers,  Train- 
ing   239 

"     as  a  Dwarf  on  Paradise  Stock.237 

"     Blight 450 

"     for  Dwarfs 207 

"     Pruning  the 220 

"     Tree  Borer 456 

"     Trees,  Cordon ,  .207 

"     Worm 457 

Apples,  Autumn 335 

"       Choice  Garden  Varieties..  .356 

"       Distance  apart  to  Plant 217 

"       for  Dwarfs 356 

"       Forms  of. 62 

"       for  Ornament  and  Preserv- 
ing  353 

"       List  of,  for  the  Eastern  and 

Middle  States 355 

"       Packing 443 

"       Summer 331 

"       Winter 340 

Apricots 378 

"       Distance  apart  to  Plant — 217 

"       Planting 190 

"       Pruning  and  Management. 260 

"       Training 211 

Barberries 167 

Bark,  Inner 25 

"     Outer 26 

Bark-Louse 456 

Berberries .414 

Bitter  Rot 450 

Blackberries 166,  415 

Packing 445 

Blackberry,  Culture  of  the 317 

Blossoming  in  Alternate  Years 55 

li          Period  of 52 

Branches,  Curved 29 

Erect 29 

Horizontal. 29 

Lateral 29 

Main 28 

Secondary 29 

Bud,  Insertion  of. 149 

"    Treatment  of  the  Growing 151 

Budding,  Propagation  by 89 

"        Time  of 148 

Buds 464 

"    Adventitious 37 

"    Axillary 37 

"    Compound  and  Simple  Fruit. .  39 

'4    Cutting  and  Preparing 90 

"    Dormant  or  Latent 38 

481 


Buds,  Fruit 39 

Inferior 38 

Lateral 37 

Leaf 38 

Names  and  Characters  of. 37 

Nature  and  Functions  of 35 

Preserving 90 

Stipular 38 

Superior 38 

Terminal 37 

Untying 150 

Canker- Worm 458 

Cats 465 

Cherries 380 

"      Bigarreau 382 

"      Distance  apart  to  Plant 217 

"       Duke  and  Morello 384 

"      Forms  of.  64 

"      Heart 380 

'»      Packing 445 

*4      Pyramidal-headed  Standard  251 

"       Select  List  of. 386 

"      The  Duke  Class  of 250 

"       The  Morello  Class  of 250 

Cherry  and  Pear  Slug 459 

"      Pruning  as  a  Pyramid ,.251 

"  "      as  a  Dwarf  or  Bush  .253 

"  *'        "         '•    Standard. 254 

"  "      an  Espalier 252 

"      as  a  Standard 250 

"      Pruning  the 249 

"      Pyramidal  Form  for 209 

"      Trees,  Setting  Standard. .   ..190 

Chestnuts 167,  435 

Cions 94 

Climate 53 

Codling-Moth,  Destroying  the 457 

Cordon,    Dwarf  Apple   trained   in 

Horizontal 207 

"        Training  of  Pear-Trees. .  .243 

Cracking 450 

Curculio  or  Plum-Weevil 460 

Currant  as  an  Espalier 311 

"       as  a  Pyramid 310 

"       Manuring  the 312 

"       Pruning  the 310 

"       the  Black 311 

"       Worm 460 

Currants 165,  404, 

"       Distance  apart  to  Plant 218 

li       Packing 445 

Custard  Apples 434 

Cuttings,  Propagation  by 83 

Diseases,  Apple  Blight 450 

Bitter  Eof 450 

Cracking 450 

"         Curl  of  the  Leaf  in  the 

Peach 454 

"        Fire-Blight 449 


482 


INDEX. 


Diseases,  Gum  in  Stone  Fruits 451 

"         Mildew 450 

"        Mildew  of  the  Grape 453 

Mildew  on  the  Peach 452 

Pear-leaf  Blight 451 

Plum-tree  Wart  or  Black 

Knot .453 

Rot  of  the  Grape 453 

Rust  or  Fungus 450 

Twig-Blight. 449 

Yellows  in  the  Peach 452 

Distances  to  Plant : 

Espalier   Apple-trees 218 

"          Cherry-trees 218 

"         Plum-trees 218 

Horizontal  Cordon  Trees 219 

Espalier  Pear-trees. 218 

Oblique  Cordon  Trees 219 

Pyramidal  Apple-trees 218 

Pear-trees  ...   218 

Plum-trees 218 

Upright  Espalier  Pear-trees ....  218 

Double  Working 100 

Draining 73 

Dwarf  Bushes 157 

"      Cherry-trees 253 

"      Standard  Cherry-tree 254 

Dwarfs  and  Dwarf  Standards 213 

"        the  Apple  for 207 

Espalier  Cherry-trees 252 

"         Currant  as  an 311 

"         Fan-shaped ..262 

"         Peach-tree 261 

"     Square 267 

"         Trees 158 

Fig,  Propagation  of  the 305 

•     Protecting  the 307 

11     Pruning  the 306 

"     Soil  for  the 305 

"     Training  in  Graperies 307 

the 306 

Figs.... 167,429 

Filbert,  Form  of 211 

Filberts 167,  435 

"      Distance  apart  to  Plant 218 

Fire-Blight 449 

Flowers,  Different  Characters  of. . .  53 

"         Parts  of 49-52 

Fruit  and  Kitchen  Garden 201 

Branches,  Management  of. .  ..235 

Characters  of 56 

Classification  of 56 

Size  of 60 

Different  Parts  of 58 

Form  of 61 

Handling 443 

Garden,  Inclosures  for 197 

Laying  out 199 

Proper  199 

Selection  of  Trees...  204 

Situation  of 196 

Soil  for 197 

Trellises  for 198 

Walks  in  the 202 

Water  for 204 

Gathering 437 

Marking 442 

Packing 441 


[  Fruit,  Ripening  of 439 

"      Rooms 446 

"      Shipping 442 

"      Spurs 33 

"     Trees,  Diseases  of 449 

4i  "  Names,  Descriptions, 
and  Offices  of  the  dif- 
ferent Parts  of 21 

Fruits,  Attention    to,   in  Cellar  or 

Fruit-Room 448 

Color  of . . .    . . . .  64 

Different  Properties  of 59 

Flavor  of 65 

for  an  Orchard,  Varieties  of.  181 

Select  Varieties  of 329 

Garden,  Mixed 201 

Germ:nation,Air  in 68 

Conditions  of 67 

Exclusion  of  Light  in  68 

Heat  in 68 

"  Moisture  in 67 

Grafting,  Cleft 97 

'"       Composition 95 

"        on  the  Root,  Whip 96 

"        Propagation  by 93 

Whip 97 

Grape 160 

"      Cuttings... 84,161 

"  .  Layering  the 160 

"      Mildew'  of  the .453 

"      Rot  of  the 453 

Grapery,  Border  for 290 

Cleaning  the  Vines  in  a. .  .293 

Position  of 290 

"         Pruning  the  Vines  in  a 292 

"         Regulating  the  Tempera- 
ture in^the 294 

"  Syringing  Vines  in  the. .  ..293 
"  To  Prevent  Mildew  in  the.294 
"  Thinning  the  Fruit  in  a ...  293 

"         Vines  for ......291 

Grapes,  Buildings  for  Foreign 289 

"        Culture,       Pruning,       and 

Training  of.   ... 271 

"        Distance  apart  to  Plant 273 

"        Foreign 425 

"        Foreign  in  Cold  Vineres..2S8 

"        Garden  Culture  of 272 

"       Hardy  Native 271 

Native 416 

"        Number  of  Acres  in  Culti- 
vation   272 

Packing 445 

"        Position  of  the  Vine  or  Bor- 
der for. . 273 

"        Pruning 275 

"        Soils  for 272 

"       Trellis  for 273 

"        Varieties  introduced   since 

1851 271 

"        Vineyard  Culture  of 282 

Grape-vine,  Planting  the 273 

Gooseberry,  Pruning  the 307 

Gooseberries 165,  405 

Distance  apart  to  Plant  218 

Gum  in  Stone  Fruits 451 

Heart  or  Perfect  Wood 26 

Hedge-Fences  for  Orchards ISO 


INDEX. 


483 


Heeling  in 172 

Hogs.  / 4(55 

Hybridization 54 

Implements,  Barrow-Engine 480 

Budding- Knife 474 

Cultivator 467 

Dung-fork 4(59 

Forked  Spade 469 

For  Nursery,  Orchard, 
and  Fruit  Garden . .  .466 

"  Fruit   Gatherers 478 

Garden  Line  and  Eeel  .470 

"  Grafting-Chisel 475 

Grape-Gatherer 473 

Grape  Scissors 474 

Hand  Pruning  Shears. 473 

Hand  Syringe 430 

Hoe........    471 

Hoe,  Pointed  Garden. 471 

Ladders 476 

Ladders.  Folding 477 

"  Lopping     or     Branch 

Shears.. 473 

One-horse  Cart 468 

"  One-horse  Plow 466 

"  Orchardist's  Hook 478 

Pick 470 

"  Pole  Pruning  Shears.  .474 

Pruning  Knife  474 

Pruning  Scissors 473 

Rake 471 

Saw,  Bow 472 

"      Pruning 472 

Shovel 469 

Spade 469 

Subsoil  Plow 466 

Tree-digging  Plow... 467 

Watering-Pot 480 

Wheelbarrow 468 

Insects,  Ants 462 

Aphis  or  Plant-Lonsc 454 

Apple-tree  Borer 456 

Apple  Worm . .     457 

Canker  Worm 458 

Caterpillars  458 

Cherry  and  Pear  Sing 459 

Codling  Moth 457 

Curculio 460 

Currant  Worm 460 

Injurious  to  Fruit-trees 454 

Leaf-Rollers 464 

Peach-tree  Borer 463 

Rose-Bn<r 463 

Scaly   Aphis 456 

Woolly  Aphis 455 

Labeling 169 

Labels  for  Nursery  Trees 168 

Layer,  Common 87 

Mound 83 

Serpentine 87 

Layering,  Propagation  by 86 

Laying  out  the  Fruit-Garden 199 

Leaf-Rollers 464 

Leaves,  Different  Forms  and  Char- 
acters of 46-49 

Leaves,  Structure  and  Functions  of  40 

Lemons 433 

Limes...  433 


Manure,  Liquid x  79 

"       Modes  of  applying 78 

"        Quantity  to  be  applied....  78 

Manures 74 

"        Importance  of 74 

u       Preparation  of 75 

Manuring 323 

Medlar,  Treatment  of 249 

Mice,  Field 464 

Mildew 450 

"      on  the  Peach 452 

Moles 465 

Mulberries 1€6,  416 

Mulching 193,  323 

Nectarine,  Pruning  the £70 

"         Training  the 211 

Nectarines 386 

"•         Distance  apart  to  Plant.. 217 

New  Varieties,  Production  of 81 

Nursery 121.  154 

"       Management  of  Trees  in...  147 

"       Soil  and  Situation  for 121 

Oranges 430 

Orchard 176 

Orchard,  Arrangement  of  Trees  in.  .185 
Preparation  of  Soil  for  an.  180 
Selection  of  Trees  for  an. .  184 
Selection  of  Varieties  for. 329 

Situation  of 176 

Soil  for 179 

Trees,   After-management 

of... 193 

"       Trees  for  Market  or  Com- 
mercial   187 

Orchard-House,  Trees  in  Tubs  or 

Pots  in  the 297 

"  Varieties  of  Trees 

for 297 

Orchard-Houses 294 

Management  of...  298 

Orchardist,  Commercial 182 

Market 182 

Orchards,  Hedge-Fences  for 180 

"        Inclosures  for 180 

"        Planting 191 

Protection  for 176 

Packing 170 

Pawpaws 434 

Peach  as  a  Dwarf  Standard 210 

"     Curl  of  the  Leaf  in.. 454 

"     Mildew  on  the 452 

"     Pruning  the 254 

"     Tree  as  an  Espalier 261 

"     Tree  Borer 463 

"     Tree,  Forming  a  Standard. .  ..256 
u     Tree  in  the  Form  of  a  Vase.  .258 

"     Tree,  Pruning  the 258 

"     Tree,  Root- Pruning  the 258 

'     Trees,  Dwarf 134 

Trees,  Fan -shaped  Espalier...  262 

Trees,  Setting 189 

Trees  trained  on  a  Wall 262 

Yellows  in  the 452 

Peaches 388 

"     Distance  apart  to  Plant  ..   .217 

"      Forms  of 64 

"      Packing 444 

"     Select  Garden. . .  ...  396 


484 


INDEX. 


Peaches,  Select  List  of 396 

Pear  as  a  Pyramid 208 

44    Pruning  the 220 

41     Seedlings 127 

"    in  Wine-glass   Form .241 

Pear-leaf  Blight 451 

Pear-Trees,  Cordon -trained 243 

"          Cutting     back   Pyram- 
idal  224 

First  Pruning  of 231 

Management    of   Fruit 

Branches  of 235 

Oblique  Cordon 244 

Objects      of      Cutting 

Back 224 

Pruning  the  Yearling.. 227 

Pyramid 224 

Second  Pruning  of 232 

Summer    Management 

of 230 

Third  Pruning  of 235 

Training  Dwarf  Stand- 
ard  223 

Training  Standard 221 

Treatment  of  Growing 

Shoots  of 233 

Pears,  Autumn 359 

44     Distance  apart  to  Plant 217 

44     Forms  of 63 

44     Packing 443 

44     Select  Assortment  of 376 

"     Summer 356 

Pinching 109,  222 

Pith 26 

Plantations,  Different  Kinds  of 175 

Planting  Orchards 191 

the  Raspberry 312 

Plants,    Exhalation     of     Moisture 

from 43 

Plowing,  Subsoil 71 

Plum  as  a  Dwarf  Pyramid 210 

as  a  Pyramid 209 

Beach 136 

Canada 135 

Chickasaw 136 

Horse 135 

Myrobolan 136 

Pruning  and  Management  of.  268 

Soil  for 179 

Trees,  Setting 190 

Wild 135 

Plum-tree  Wart  or  Black-Knot 453 

Plums 397 

41     Distance  apart  to  Plant 217 

44     Forms  of 64 

44     Packing 445 

"     Select  List  of 403 

Pomegranates 433 

Practice 100 

Propagating    Fruit -Trees,    Differ- 
ent Modes  of 80 

Propagation  by  Division  of  Plants.  82 
Pruning   and  Management    of  the 

Peach 254 

Pruning  and  Preparing  Trees  for 

Planting ...     191 

Pruning  and  Training  the  Quince.. 248 
"       Mechanically  Considered. .  105 


Pruning,Root 

"       Season  for 

the  Apple  and  Pear 

"       as  Espaliers 

vt       on  Paradise  Stock 

"       Apricot 

"       Cherry  as  a  Pyramid 

"       Standard 

"      Currant 

**       Grape 

"       Gooseberry. 

Nectarine 

"       Peach  Tree 

"       Plum 

"       Raspberry 

Pyramidal  Training 

Pyramids 

Quince,  Angers 

Pruning  and  Training  the 

Training  the 

j  Quinces 

"       Distance  apart  to  Plant. . . 

"       Packing 

Rabbits 

Raspberries 166, 

"        Distance  apart  to  Plant 

"         Packing • 

Raspberry,  Manuring  the 

Planting  the 

Pruning  the 

'  Summer  Pruning  the. . 

Training  the 

'  Winter  Protection  for. , 

Root,  Different  Parts  of  the 

"      Grafts,  Planting 

"       Treatment  of 

Pruning  the  Peach-Tree 

Roots,  Growth  of  

Rose-Bug 

Rotation  of  Crops 

Rust  or  Fungus 

Sap,  Circulation  of 

"     Wood 

Scaly  Aphis 

Seed,  the 

Seedlings,  Mazzard 

Seeds,  Propagating  by 

Sloe 

Soil,  Annual  Cultivation  of 

"     in  Nursery.  Treatment  of 

"     Different  Kinds  of 

Soils 

"     Modes  of  Improving 

Spongioles — 

Staking 

Standards 

•     "        Dwarf 146, 

Stem 

"    Growth  of 

Structure  of 

the  Different  Parts  of 

Stocks 

Doucin 

for  Apples 

Cherry 

Apricot  and  Nectarine 

Plum  

Mahaleb ...  


104 
108 
220 
£t9 
£37 
£09 
251 
SCO 
310 
275 
307 
270 
258 
£08 
312 
208 
155 
130 
.248 
211 
377 
217 
444 
465 
407 
218 
445 
314 
312 
312 
313 
314 
316 

22 
146 
150 
258 

23 
463 
123 
450 

45 

26 
456 

66 
131 


323 

159 

69 

69 

71 

23 

193 

152 

155 

24 

27 

27 

25 

94 

124 

124 

131 

134 

135 

132 


INDEX. 


485 


Stocks,Paradise 124 

"     Peach 133 

"     Pear 127 

"     Planting  Peach 134 

"     Plum 134 

"     Preparation  of 149 

"     Preparing  and  Saving  Seeds 

for...   132 

"     Propagation  of 124 

"     Quince.. 128 

"     Raising  Seedling 124 

"     Small  Morello 132 

"     Transplanting 137 

Strawberry,  Culture  of  the 318 

Transplanting  the 319 

Strawberries 165,  410 

Packing 445 

Suckers,  Propagation  by 88 

Taking  up  Trees  from  the  Nursery.lCS 

Training  the  Apple 207 

Apricot  and  Nectarine 211 

Cherry...  209 

Filbert 211 

Peach 210 

Pear 2C8 

Quince 211 

Plum 209 

Trees,  After  -  management  of  Or- 
chard  193 

"      Ageof 212 

"      Arrangement  of,  in  Orchard.  185 
"      Arrangement  in  Regard  to 

Position 216 

"      Distance  apart  to  Piant 216 

"       Fastening     to    Walls    and 

Trellises 268 

"      for  Market  or  Commercial 

Orchard 187 

"      Form  of 204 

"      General  Remarks  upon  the 

Structure  of 21 


Trees,   Heeling  in 172 

"       Labeling 169 

"      Mulching 193 

"      Packing 170 

"       Permanent   Plantations   of 

Fruit 175 

"      Planting 216 

"      Protecting      against      Ex- 
tremes of  Temperature.  .324 
"      Pruning  and  Preparing  for 

Planting 191 

"      Renovating        Pyramidal 

Apple  and  Pear 324 

"      Selection  of 184 

"       Setting  Peach 189 

"      Setting  Plum 190 

"      Setting  Standard  Cherry. . .  .190 

"      Staking   193 

"       Taking  up 216 

Trellis  for  Oblique  Cordon  Trees. ..247 

Trellises 198 

Trenching  72 

Twig  Blight 449 

Varieties,  Selections  of 213 

Vineyard  Culture  of  Grapes 282 

Depth  to  set  the  Plants  in. 286 
Distance  apart  to  set  the 

Vines  in 285 

Kinds  of  Plants  for 285 

Methods  of  Training  in. .  .286 
Preparation  of  Soil  for. .  .284 

Pruning  a 286 

Shelter  for 284 

Soil  and  Situation  for 283 

Time  to  Plant  a 285 

Walks  in  the  Fruit  Garden 202 

Walnuts 167,  436 

Watering 324 

Wine-Glass  Form  of  Pear  Trees 241 

Woolly  Aphis...  455 

Yellows  on  the  Peach. . .  . .  .452 


INDEX    TO    THE    DIFFERENT    FRUITS. 


The  standard  names  are  in  Roman  letters  ;  the  synonymous  names  in  Italics. 


Almonds. 

Bitter  Almond...  ..  434 

Ladies1  Thin-shell  ' 434 

Soft  Sweet  Shell 434 

Sweet  Hard-shell 434 

Apples. 

Alexander 335 

American  Golden  Russet 340 

American  Summer  Pearmain 331 

Autumn  Straivbewy 338 

Autumn  Sweet  Bough 335 

Bailey's  Sweet 341 

Baldwin 340 

Baltimore 341 

Batchelor...  ...350 


Beauty  of  Kent 335 

Belmont 341 

Ben  Davis 341 

Benoni 331 

Bently's  Sweet 341 

Bethlehemite 341 

Bonum 342 

Broadwell 342 

Buckingham..   342 

Bullock's  Pippin 340 

Cable's  Gittifloiver 341 

Campfield 335 

Canada  Reinette , .  .342 

Cannon  Pearmain 342 

Carolina  Red  June 332 

Carolina  Watson 332 

Carter's  Blue ..  .336 


486 


INDEX. 


.343 
.349 
.342 
..343 


Cayuga  Bed  Streak 351 

Chenaniro  Strawberry.   336 

Cogswell 342 

Cooper's  Market 343 

Cornell's  Fancy 336 

Cullasaga 343 

Domine 343 

Duchess  of  Olden  burgh 336 

Dutch  Mignonne 343 

Dyer 336 

Early  Harvest 332 

Early  Joe 332 

Early  Pennock 332 

Early  Red  Margaret 332 

Early  Strawberry 332 

Early  Sweet  Bough 333 

English  lied  Streak 

English  Russet 

English  Sweet 

Equinetely 

Esopus  Spitzenburgh 

Fallawater .......... ....S4A 

fall  Cheese  of  Virginia 339 

Fall  Pippiu '. 336 

Fall  Queen ...  342 

Fall  Wine 337 

Fameuse 344 

Garden  Royal 337 

Gate 341 

Gilpin 344 

Golden  Russet  of  Western  N.  Y.. .  .344 

Golden  Spice 336 

Golden  Sweet 333 

Gravenstein 337 

Green  Cheese 344 

Green  New  town  Pippin 347 

Green  Sweet 344 

Grimes'  Golden  Pippin.   345 

Hawthornden 337 

Hay's 352 

Hightop  Sweet 333 

Hocking 334 

Hominy 340 

Honty  Greening 344 

Howe's  Virginia  Crab 345 

Hubbardston  Nonsuch 345 

Jefferis 337 

Jeniton 349 

Jersey  Sweet 338 

Jonathan 345 

Junaluskee .345 

Keswick  Codlin 338 

King  of  Tompkins  County 345 

Lady  Apple 345 

Lady's  Sweet 346 

Large  Yellow  Bough 333 

Late  Strawberry 338 

Lawver 

Limber  Twig... 


.346 
346 
,334 

Pearrnain, 340 

Little  Bomanite 344 

Lowell 

Lyman's  Pumpkin  Sweet ".'.'.'.'. 

Magnum  Bniium  342 

Maiden's  Blush 338 

Man  arum  339 

Melon .  '.346 


Menagere 346 

Michael  Henry  Pippin 346 

Monmouth  Pippin 346 

Moore's  Sweet ....347 

Mother 347 

Munsou  Sweet 347 

Myer's  Nonpareil 339 

Newark  Siceeting 335 

Newtown  Pippin 347 

Newtown  Spitzenburgh 347 

New  York  Pippin 341 

Nickajack 348 

Northern  Spy 348 

Ohio  Nonpareil 339 

Ohio  Wine 337 

Orange  Siveet 347 

Ortley 348 

Peck's  Pleasant 348 

Pennsylvania  Bed  Streak 352 

Phillip's  Sweet 348 

Pomme  Gris 349 

Pomme  Boyale 336 

Porter 339 

Poughkeepsie  Busset 343 

Primate 333 

Pryor's  Red 349 

Pumpkin  Sweet 338 

Queen  Anne 338 

Rambo 349 

Ramsdell's  Sweet 349 

Rawle's  Janet 349 

Red  Astrachan 333 

Red  Canada 349 

Bed  Juneating 332 

Redling 343 

Bed  Spitzenburqh 339 

Bed  Sweet  Pippin 347 

Red  Winter  Pearrnain 350 

Beinette  Canada 342 

Rhode  Island  Greening 350 

Ribston  Pippin 350 

Richard's  Graft 339 

Bichfield  Nonsuch 349 

Bomanite 349 

Rome  Beauty 339 

Roxbury  Russet.. .' 350 

Slierwood's  Favoiite 336 

Shockley 350 

Smith's  Cider 350 

Smokehouse 351 

Snow 344 

Sops  of  Wine 340 

Stanard 351 

Steetes  Bed  Winter 340 

St.  Lawrence 339 

Summer  Hagloe 


Summer  Queen 334 

Summer  Rose 334 

Summer  Sweet  Paradise 334 

Swaar 351 

Sweet  June 333 

Sweet  Swaar 335 

Tallow  Pijrpin 338 

Talman's  Sweet 351 

Tetofsky 334 

Tewksbury  Winter  Blush 351 

Townsend 334 

Trenton  Early 334 


INDEX. 


487 


Txlpehocken 344 

Twenty-Ounce 351 

Vandervere  of  New  York 347 

Vermont  Pumpkin  Sweet 338 

Wagoner 352 

Washington  Strawberry 340 

Westfield  Seek-No-Further 352 

White  Pippin 352 

White  Winter  Pearmain 352 

William's  Favorite 335 

William's  Red 335 

Willow  Twig 352 

Wine 352 

Winesap 353 

Winter  Rose...   348 

Winter  Sweet  Paradise 353 

Winter  Wine. 352 

Woodman's  Long.   348 

Yellow  Bellflower 353 

Yellow  Newtowii  Pippin 353 

Apples — Crab. 

Cherry  Crab 354 

Hyslop 354 

Lady  Crab 354 

Large  Red  Siberian  Crab 354 

Large  Yellow  Siberian  Crab 354 

Montreal  Beauty 354 

Oblong  Siberian  Crab 354 

Red  "  "  354 

Transcendent 354 

Yellow  Siberian  Crab 354 

Apricots. 

Alberge  de  Montagamet 378 

Beauge 378 

Blenheim 378 

Breda 378 

Canino  Grosso 378 

Dubois 378 

Early  Golden 378 

Early  Masculine 379 

Early  Moorpark 378 

Hemskirke 379 

Kaisha 379 

Large  Early 379 

Montagamet 378 

Moorpark 379 

Orange 379 

Peach 379 

Red  Masculine 379 

Sain  t  Am  broise 379 

Sardi  nian 379 

Shipley 378 

Turkey 379 

Berberries. 

Berberis  dulcis 144 

Common  Red 414 

Sweet-fruited 414 

Blackberries. 

Dorchester 415 

Improved  High  Bush 415 

Kittatinny .  .415 

Lawton 415 


New  Rochelle 415 

Wilson's  Early 415 

Cherries. 

Apple 382 

Belle  de  Choisy 384 

Belle  Magnifique 384 

Belle  d'Orleans 380 

Black   Eagle 380 

Black  Tartarian 380 

Bigarrean 382 

Buttner's  Yellow 382 

Carnation 384 

Cleveland  Bigarrenu 382 

Coe's  Transparent 380 

Delicate 380 

Donna  Maria 385 

Downer's  Late  Red 381 

Early  Purple  Guigne 381 

Early  Richmond 381 

Elkhorn 383 

Elton 381 

Governor  Wood 381 

Great  Bigarreau 382 

Griddley 382 

Knight's  Early  Black 381 

Late  Duke 385 

Louis  Philippe 385 

May  Duke 385 

Monstreuse  de  Mezel 382 

Morello 385 

Napoleon  Bigarreau 383 

Ohio  Beauty 381 

Osceola ...383 

Pontiac 383 

Red  Jacket 383 

Reine  Hortense 385 

Rockport  Bigarreau 383 

Royal  Ann 383 

Royal  Duke 386 

Traclescant's  Black  Heart 383 

Wilkinson 382 

Yellow  Spanish. 382 

Chestnuts. 

American  Chestnut 435 

Chinquapin 435 

Dwarf  Chestnut 435 

Marron 435 

Spanish  Chestnut 435 

Currants. 

Black  Naples 404 

Cherry 404 

Houghton  Castle 405 

La  Versaillaise 404 

Long-bunched  Red 405 

Prince  Albert ' 405 

Red  Dutch 405 

Shorfc-bunched  Red 405 

Victoria 405 

White  Dutch ...405 

White  Grape 405 


Adams. . . 
Angelica. 


Figs. 


..429 
..429 


488 


INDEX. 


Angelique 429 

Brown  Ischia 430 

Brown  Turkey 430 

Brunswick 430 

Early  Violet.   430 

Penrussnta 430 

White  Genoa 430 

Filberts. 

Colnirg  435 

Cosford 435 

Dwarf  Prolific 435 

Frizzled ..438 

Red-skinned 436 

White 436 

Gooseberries. 

English  Varieties 405,  406 

American  Varieties 406 

American  Seedling 406 

Downing 406 

Honghton'fi  Seedling 406 

Mountain  Seedling 406 

Pale  Red 406 

Smith's  Improved .406 

Grapes. 

NATIVE    VARIETIES. 

Black. 

Adirondac ..416 

Alvey 416 

Arnold's  No.  1 4-20 

Arnold's  No.  2 411 

Arnold's  No.  16 417 

Barry 416 

Canada 417 

Candy's  August 421 

Christine 420 

Clinton 417 

Concord 417 

Cornucopia 417 

Creveling 417 

Cynthiana 417 

Edinburgh 418 

Essex 418 

Eumelan 418 

Hartford  Prolific. . .   418 

Herbemont 418 

Herbert 418 

Isabella 419 

Israella 419 

Ives' 419 

Ives'  Seedling 419 

Merrimack 419 

Miles 419 

Norton's  Virginia 419 

Ontario 420 

Othello ^..420 

Rogers1  No.  4 420 

Rogers'  No.  19 419 

Rogers1  Wo.  41 418 

Rogers"  No.  43 416 

Rogers'  No.  44 418 

Senasqua 420 

Telegraph 420 


To  Kalon 420 

Union  Village 420 

Wilder 420 

York  Madeira 421 

Red. 

Agawam 421 

Catawba 421 

Delaware 422 

Diana 422 

Goethe 422 

lona 422 

Lindley 423 

Massasoit 423 

Mottled 423 

Rogers'  No.  1 422 

Rogers'  No.  3 423 

Rogers'  No.  9  423 

Rogers'  No.  22 423 

Salem 423 

Walter 423 

White. 

Allen's  Hybrid 424 

Arnold's  No.  5 424 

Autuchon 424 

Croton  424 

Cuyahpga 424 

Lydia.' '.424 

Martha 425 

Maxatawney 425 

Rebecca 425 

FOREIGN  VARIETIES. 

Black  or  Purple. 

Alicante 425 

Black  Frontignan 425 

Black  Hamburgh 425 

Black  Palestine 425 

Black  St.  Peter's 426 

Burckhardt's  Prince 426 

Champion  Hamburgh 426 

Due  de  Magenta. 426 

Early  Black  Bordeaux 426 

Gros  Maroc.   .   426 

Jura  Muscat 426 

Lady  Downe's 426 

Mrs.  Prince's  Black  Muscat 427 


Muscat  d'Aout 

Muscat  Hamburgh 

Muscat  Lierval 

Muscat  Noir. 


.426 

426 

426 

426 


Trentham  Black 427 

Bed. 
Grizzly  Frontignan  .427 

White. 

Bowood  Muscat 427 

Buckland's  Sweetwater 427 

Chasselas  de  Fontainebleau 428 

Chasselas  Masque 427 

Chasselas  Royal 427 

Decon's  Superb 427 

Early  Silver  Frontignan 428 

Early  Smyrna  Frontignan 428 


INDEX. 


489 


Foster's  White  Seedling 428 

Goiden  Champion 428 

Madeline  Royal 428 

Pri mavis  Frontignan 428 

Royal  Muscadine  . , 428 

Syrian...    ; 428 

Trebbiano 428 

White  Frontignan 429 

While  Muscat  of  Alexandria 429 

White  Nice 429 

mulberries. 

Black 416 

Everbearing . .  .416 

Johnson 416 

Nectarines. 

Boston i 386 

Downt.on 386 

Early  Violet 386 

Early  Newington 387 

El  rage 387 

Hardwicke's  Seedling 387 

Hunt's  Tawny 387 

Lttcombe's  Black 387 

Pitrnaston  Orange 387 

Red   Roman 387 

Rivers'  Orange 388 

Stan  wick 388 

Victoria  388 

TioleUe  Htitive 386 

Oranges. 

Bergamot 432 

Havana 432 

Maltese 432 

Mandarin 432 

Myrtle-leaved 432 

Otaheite 432 

St.  Angnstine 432 

St.  Michaels 432- 

Shaddock 432 

Tangerine 432 

Variegated-leaved 432 

Peaches. 

Barnard's  Yellow 396 

Bellegarde 388 

Bergen's  Yellow 388 

Cole's  Early  Red 388 

Columbia 389 

Cooledge's  Favorite 389 

Crawford's  Early 389 

Late 389 

DruidHill 389 

Early  Newington  Freestone 390 

Early  Royal  George 388 

Early  Tillotson 390 

Early  York 390 

Freeman 390 

George  the  Fourth 390 

Grosee  Mignonne 390 

Haines' Early '..' 391 

Bale's  Early 391 

Honest  John  ..  ..392 

Heath  Cling ...391 


Heath  Free 392 

Hyslop's  Cling 391 

Indian  Peach'. 389 

Jacques'  Rareripe 391 

Ken  rick' s  Heath 392 

La  Grange 392 

Large  Early  York 392 

Late  Admirable 392 

Lemon  Cling 392 

Monstreuse  de  Doue 393 

Morris's  White 393 

Morns' s  White  Eareripe 393 

Noblesse 393 

Oldmixon  Cling 393 

Oldmixon  Freestone 898 

Red  Cheek  Melocoton 394 

Salway 394 

Scott's  Nonpareil 394 

Serrate  Early  York 390 

Smock  Freestone 394 

Snow 394 

Stump  the  World 894 

Sturtevant 395 

Surpassc  Melocoton 395 

Susqnehanna 395 

Teton  de  Venus 392 

Tippecanoe  Cling 895 

Troth's  Early 395 

Ward's  Late  Free 395 

Walbnrton  Admirable 396 

Yellow  Alberge 396 

Yellow  Rajeripe 396 

Pears. 

Abbott 370 

Adams 370 

Andre  Desportes 370 

Andrews 370 

Annas  d'Et.6 359 

Baronne  de  Mello 359 

Bartlett 356 

Belle  de  Flanders 363 

Belle  Epine  Dumas 359 

Belle  Lucrative 359 

Bergamotte  d'Esperen 371 

Beurr6  Bosc 360 

Beurr6  Boussock 362 

Benrr6    Brown 371 

Benrre  Clairgcau £60 

Beurre  d'Albret 370 

Beurre  d'Amanlis 370 

Beurre  d'Angleterre 370 

Benrr6  d'Anjon 359 

Beurre   d'Aremberg 367 

Beurr6  de  Brignais 360 

Beurre    del'Assomption 371 

Beurre  de  Nantes 374 

Beurre  de  Waterloo 372 

Beurre  Diel 360 

Beurre  Durand 371 

Beurr6  Easter 367 

Beurre,  Golden,  of  Bilbca 371 

Beurre  Gris  d'Hiver  Nouveau 367 

Beurre  Hardy 360 

Beurre  Manxion 371 

Beurre  Moire 371 

Beurre  Picqitery 366 

Beurre  Superfin 361 


490 


INDEX. 


Bezi  do  Montigny. 371 

Bezi  Esperen.  . ..... . .    371 

Black  Worcester 372 

Bloodgood 357 

Bonne  de  Malines 369 

Bonne  de  Puits  d'Ansault 372 

Bonne  Sophia. 372 

Brandy  wine 357 

Buffum 361 

Burre   Giffard 356 

Butter  Pear 362 

Caen  de  France 372 

Catillac 367 

Church 372 

Citron  des  Cannes 358 

Clapp's  Favorite 357 

Coit's  Bern-re. 361 

Columbia 368 

Comte  de  Flandre 372 

Comptesse  de  Lunay 371 

ConseUler  de  la  Cour 364 

If  Alen.-on ... 368 

Dana's  Hovey . 368 

Dearborn's  Seedling 357 

Des  Nonnes 360 

De  Tongres 361 

Dix 361 

Doctor  Lindley 372 

Doctor  Reeder 362 

Doyenne  Boussock 362 

Doyenn6  d' Alencon 368 

Doyenne  d'Ete..' 357 

Doyenne  d'Hiver 367 

Doyenns  cFHiver 3(i8 

Doyenne  du  Cornice 362 

Doyenne    Gray 362 

Doyenne  White 362 

Duchesse   d'Angouleme 363 

Due  a"1  Aremberg 367 

Due  de  Brabant 372 

Due  de  Bordeaux 3c9 

Duchess  d'  Orleans 372 

Duchess  Precoce. ... 372 

Duchesse  de  Berry  d'Ete 357 

Duchesse  de  Bordeaux 373 

Duran  deau ' "<51 

Edmonds 373 

Emile  d'Heyst 363 

Flemish  Beauty 363 

Fondante  d1  Automne 359 

Fondante  de-s  Charneuse 372 

Fulton 363 

General  Taylor 373 

General  Tottleben 373 

Glout  Morceau 368 

Gratioli  of  Jersey 373 

Henri  Desportes 373 

Henry  the  Fourth 373 

Homewood 373 

Howell 364 

Jalousie  dc  Fontenay  Vendee 373 

Jones's  Seedling  364 

Josephine  dc  Malines 369 

Jules  Bront 373 

Kingsessing ...374 

Kirtland 364 

La  Cure 369 

Lawrence...  ...369 


I  Livingston  Virgalieu 374 

Louise  Bonne  tie  Jersey 364 

Madam  Eliza.  . 374 

Madeleine ....358 

Manning's  Elizabeth 358 

Marechal  de  la  Cour 364 

Marie  Louise  374 

Marie  Louise  d'Ucclcs 374 

Maurice  Desporte? 374 

Merriam 364 

Mount  Vernon 374 

Nantais 374 

Xe  Plus  Mem  is 359 

Nouvean  Poiteau 374 

Onondaga 365 

Osband's  Summer 358 

Oswego  Beurre 375 

Ott,.: 375 

Paradise  d'Automne 365 

Petite  Marguerite 375 

Pitmaston  Duchess  . .   375 

Pius  the  9th 375 

Platt 375 

Pound 369 

Pratt 365 

Rapelye's  Seedling 375 

Rostiezer 358 

Ratter 375 

St.  Ghislain 375 

St.  Michael  Archangel 365 

St.  Nicholas 372 

Seeker. 365 

Sheldon 306 

Souvenir  d'Esperen. . .   366 

Souvenir  du  Conares 375 

Stevens'  Genesee 366 

Summer  Doyenne 357 

Summer  Virgalieu 358 

Swan's  Orange 365 

Tyson 358 

Urbaniste 366 

Uvedale's  St.  Germain 369 

Vicar  of  Winkfiekl 369 

Virq  alien 362 

Washington 366 

Williams'1  Bonchretien 356 

Williams'  d'Hiver 376 

Winter  Nelis.J 369 

Plums. 

Autumn  Gage 397 

Bavay's  Green  Gage 401 

Bleecker's  Gage 397 

Bradshaw 397 

Coe's  Golden  Drop 397 

Columbia 397 

Denniston's  Superb 398 

Dunne's  Purple 398 

Early  Favorite 398 

Fellenberg -..398 

General  Hand 398 

German  Prune 39J 

Green  Gage 399 

Hnling's  Superb 399 

Ickworth  Impcratrice 399 

Imperial  Gage 399 

Jefferson 399 

July  Green  Gage 400 


INDEX. 


491 


Lawrence's  Favorite 400 

Lombard ..400 

Lucombe's  Nonsuch 400 

Magnum  Bonum 400 

Mclaughlin 400 

Monroe  Gage 400 

Ontario 401 

Orleans  401 

Peters'  Yellow  Gage 401 

Pond's  Seedling 401 

Prince  Englebert 401 

Princes 403 

Prune  d'Agen 401 

Quackenbose 401 

Reine  Claude  de  Bavay. 401 

Robe  de  Sergent 401 

Saint  Catherine 402 

Saint  Lawrence 402 

Skates  Emperor 402 

Shropshire  Damson. 402 

Smith's  Orleans 402 

Victoria 402 

Wangeuheim 402 

Washington 403 

Yellow  Egg 400 

Yellow  Gage 403 

Quinces. 

Angers 377 

Apple-shaped .377 

Chinese 377 

Japan 377 

Orange... 377 

Pear-shaped 377 

Portugal 377 

Rea's  Seedling 377 

Red's  Mammoth 377 

Van  Slyke. .., 377 

Raspberries. 

FOREIGN  VARIETIES. 

Belle  de  Palnau 407 

Brinckle's  Otwnge .408 

Clarke 407 

Fastollf 407 

Franconia 407 

French 407 

Hornet 407 

Hudson  River  Antwerp 407 

Knevett's  Giant 407 

Orange 408 

Red  Antwerp 408 


Red  Antwerp  of  the  Hudson  River 

Semper  Fidelis 

Vice-President  French 

Victoria 


.407 
.408 
.407 


AMERICAN  VARIETIES. 

American  Black  Cap 408 

Davi son's  Thornless 408 

Doolittte 408 

Joslyrfs  Black  Cap 408 

Mammoth  Cluster 408 

McCormick 408 

Ontario 408 

Philadelphia 409 

Seneca  Black  Cay 409 


AUTUMN    VARIETIES. 

Belle  de  Fontenay ...  ...  409 

Catawissa 409 

Merveille  des  Quatre  Saisons 409 

October  Red 409 

Ohio  Everbearing 409 

Surpasse  Fastollf 410 

White  Perpetual „. 410 

Strawberries. 

AMERICAN. 

Agriculturist. . .   410 

Charles  Downing 410 

Doivner 410 

Downer 411 

Downer's  Prolific 410 

Durand's  Seedling 410 

Green  Prolific 410 

Hovey 410 

Ida. 411 

Jenny  Lind 411 

Kentucky ., 411 

Large  Early  Scarlet 411 

Lennig's  White 411 

Longworth's  Prolific 411 

Nicanor 411 

Philadelphia 412 

President  Wilder 412 

RusseWs  Prolific .412 

Russell's  Seedling 412 

Wilson's  Albany 412 


Gloede's 413 

Golden  Queen 413 

Jucunda 412 

Napoleon  III .  .412 

Perpetual  Pine 413 

Triomphe  de  Gand 413 

Trollope's  Victoria 413 


Alpine  Bush.  413 

Alpine  Wood. 413 

Autumnal  Galland 413 

Montreuil 414 

HAUTBOIS. 

Belle  dc  Bordelais 414 

Monstrous  Hautbois 414 

Royal  Hautbois 414 

Tropical   Fruits. 

Lemon / 433 

Lime 433 

Pomegranate 433 

Pawpaw 434 

Custard  Apple 434 

Walnut*. 

Black  Walnut 436 

Butternut 436 

Dwarf  Prolific  Walnut 436 

English  Walnut 436 

Hickory-Nut 436 

Madeira  Nut...  ...436 


UNIVERSITY  OP  CALIFORNIA  LIBRARY 


THIS  BOOK  IS  DUE  ON  THE  LAST  DATE 
STAMPED  BELOW 


OCT  29  1915 
OCT  29  1915 


JUN 1 7  '65  -3 


30m-l,'15 


YB   10133 


